Salute to you. A great baler. I love mine and it has done great with Teff, Oats, Peanuts, Bermuda, and Tricepe . I plan to get another one , as folks are moving to newer equipment. 6 foot baler last longer in my hay bins than the 4fters...for sure. 😁
I feeling better that someone else has to replace these bearings in these round balers. I have replaced several sets on my John Deere and one was so bad it fell out with a bunch of rust dust and the other was glowing red while baling in the field. Lucky the glowing one was spotted at night. They are a pain and the main reason for failure is no grease fittings to add grease.
@@TheFritz423 got it thank you! When putting in the new bearings how do you know if they’re seated where they need to be and not too deep or shallow into the tube? Is there a lip or something they will bottom out against in the tube?
I've been using 660 also. Those rollers don't have much thickness around the bearings. I wonder if heating up real nice then letting them cool and shrink would work? I might try it on another old baler I'm building for a spare.
Could have just cut the race off? I'm trying to do one of the bigger roller in my 466. Deere says the smaller roller are heavier than the bigger one 53,48 respectively.
There is no race on these, the roller shaft acts like a race. If you mean the inner hub of the bearing that was destroyed yes you could cut it off but it came off pretty easy with heat.
Keep up the 535 videos. I just bought a used one so I’ll consume any and everything 535 content.
Salute to you. A great baler. I love mine and it has done great with Teff, Oats, Peanuts, Bermuda, and Tricepe . I plan to get another one , as folks are moving to newer equipment. 6 foot baler last longer in my hay bins than the 4fters...for sure. 😁
Great help, got it apart now I just gotta put it back together
I feeling better that someone else has to replace these bearings in these round balers. I have replaced several sets on my John Deere and one was so bad it fell out with a bunch of rust dust and the other was glowing red while baling in the field. Lucky the glowing one was spotted at night. They are a pain and the main reason for failure is no grease fittings to add grease.
Nothing makes me feel more manly than watching two men fix farm equipment while I pet my cat from the other side of the world
Very nice
Great video!
Does the manual call for the loctite 660 or did you just use it to help with the damaged roller?
We used it because of the damaged (flared) roller. It's worked like a champ ever since.
@@TheFritz423 got it thank you! When putting in the new bearings how do you know if they’re seated where they need to be and not too deep or shallow into the tube? Is there a lip or something they will bottom out against in the tube?
what size bearing?
I've been using 660 also. Those rollers don't have much thickness around the bearings. I wonder if heating up real nice then letting them cool and shrink would work? I might try it on another old baler I'm building for a spare.
I don't think that would fix the flared end...luckily the peening and 660 has worked now for over 100 bales.
Peening looked like it would do the job, you’d have to be one hell of a smithy to take the flair out of that pipe and return it straight and round
Could have just cut the race off? I'm trying to do one of the bigger roller in my 466. Deere says the smaller roller are heavier than the bigger one 53,48 respectively.
There is no race on these, the roller shaft acts like a race. If you mean the inner hub of the bearing that was destroyed yes you could cut it off but it came off pretty easy with heat.
Did you guys it any slack in the belts to tie them up?
Late reply but opening the gate removes the belt tension.
I'm boutta create to my farm
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