The really cool tips and tricks that turn and "ok" finished product into a "how'd you do that?" finished product are sometimes the simple ones. This one is pretty freaking awesome. Thanks!
Yea! I've never seen anything like that... How do you glue just part of a sheet? Seems like more work than just cutting the sheet to the correct size with a little (1/2" to 1") overhang.
Yes, cut the sheet down first, if the sheet fractures it is razor sharp and springs outward. In this case in the users face. Laminate trimmers use an external non-motorized guide bearing. Using bits with attached bearings on the face of laminate edges leaves a mark, if the bearing gets clogged at all, it will score.
I work with a guy who has over 30 years experience. He has a router with the same set up but we use it only when we have a "L" or "U" shape counter that we don't want seems in. Also we don't glue it down first we map it out on the counter then use spring clamps and depending on the size of the counter a partner to help hold down the laminate from shifting. We route our single peice of laminate then glue the top and laminate using wooden dowel rods to keep the laminate from sticking till we get it all lined up. Then a quick route and bevel finish it with a file.
Thank you for making this tutorial video on cutting laminate with a router. It's going to really help me when I add laminate to a custom desk. A+ Cheers! 🍻
This is great info that I could have used 24 hours ago. I had a spiral down cut flush trim bit just skim the front banding. I like down cut spiral bits over straight flush cut because especially with wood laminates they seem to leave the surface nicer but they don’t have removable barring which is their downside as there is no ajustibility.
I work with a guy who has over 30 years experience. He has a router with the same set up but we use it only when we have a "L" or "U" shape counter that we don't want seems in. Also we don't glue it down first we map it out on the counter then use spring clamps and depending on the size of the counter a partner to help hold down the laminate from shifting. We route our single peice of laminate then glue the top and laminate using wooden dowel rods to keep the laminate from sticking till we get it all lined up. Then a quick route and bevel finish it with a file.
The instructions you shared with us is probably the safest way to apply and cut laminate but more time consuming. I would recommend doing it your way if you don't have a lot of experience or are working with expensive materials. Never the less, your instructions are a excellent way to apply and finish laminate. Thanks for sharing! Cheers! 🍻
There are guys who see things being done differently than how they do it and automatically assume the other person is wrong. I am not generally one of those guys. Watching this video fills me with confusion. I don't understand what I am watching. Why is the laminate cut so much bigger than the substrate? There doesn't need to be that much overhang and that makes it difficult to work with. Why are you using such a huge router and bit? Cut the laminate about 1" bigger each direction than the substrate, stick it down, use some lamilube or vasoline around the finished edge, get you a small laminate trim router with a little laminate trim bit (self guide, don't need a bearing) it can be a flush trim or a bevel trim, and rout the thing off. Go over it with a file and you're done. I wish I could paste links to images to show you what I mean. I am co owner of a cabinet shop and we do quite a bit of laminating. I have been laminating for over 10 years.
its 2020. you have a phone, record a video, and take some pictures. you figured out how to create a youtube/google account, upload a photo of your face. i have all the confidence in you steeeeeve.
@@crackthatheals my TH-cam channel is built by design. I don't do "how to videos" but I do know what I am talking about here. th-cam.com/video/KMTJBAb-cmc/w-d-xo.html
That is the same way they did in the 1950's My Father showed me that same way in the early 70S been doing that way every since then countertops backsplashes lot of file work for the seams never needed trim. Great video and Great Job***** John any body can follow your instructions. Keep a Sharp TOOL
Would it work to use a Freud 42-110 for the first cut? It is a 1/2" flush trim bit with a 1/2" shank versus the 42-100 you suggest with a 3/8" flush trim with a 1/4" shank ?
Heck I've never routed laminate, but I need to... I am not quit sure what he was explaining. I know he left roughly a 1/16 of material behind from the first pass. he said the second was a chamfer bit. So, he's 45 deg. the top?? Or is the depth of the bit set just right that he's chamfering the material just to the finished sides???
Hello. I just bought an ikea wardrobe and im planning to replace their front laminate cabinets with othee color. Whats the process of replacing a laminate cabinet? Can i paste it on top of the old one? Should i sand it first? Or should i take it out?
When you use this bit Freud 41-502 1/16" Radius Laminate Trim Bit, Multi what size bearing are you using on the 2nd router with that bit a 1/4 or 1/2 bearing? I see your using a 1/2" with the first bit and I have that bit already and just ordered the 1/2" bearing...
Dude that's awesome but me I would jus finished it off quick with a file. 10" fast file that can take of that laminate edge quick.but u gota know how 2 work it cuz u can chip it.been doing this for 7 years at the shop.good video for beginners👍🏽
I am working on my first small counters ever, and was not thrilled with how my practice pieces came out, so I ended up using this trick. Rather than file I have been finishing the remaining edge with some 60-80 grit sandpaper on my detail and multi-tool sanders. Takes a little while but I have found it to be a lot more forgiving.
Which second rounder. Need name trim Formica , what do some Formica sometimes scratch on sides. Band with rouder. Second rouder have cut perfect don’t scratch somebody say me wich is name for rouder thanks 🙏
Great trick in the roller bearing bit.... No safety glasses though and correct me if I'm wrong here but aren't you supposed to cut the laminate ( or anything else) by going counter clockwise with your router??? That way the router never can spin away from you out of control dude...
Why not just start with the second bit? I dont see any reason why the "overlap" is cut 1 inch too big or 1 mile too big.. other than having to support a one mile overlap with one mile of table Edit: typos..
Hi there nice video I am about to make a formica desk with birch ply can I ask you something please? How long do you have to wait until you route the edges (after the glue up) ? Also is the whole process quite easy- what worries me is , is air bubbles . thanks in advance sir
hey that is really good idea, I am new to doing a laminate on my own , so the edge is then bevelled ? not at right angles? have u got the specs for the bits please. You are the 1st I have seen to use 2 bits, i think everyone want to just get it out of the way, u seem to enjoy it :) , thanks in advance for answering my question
Because you have to apply contact adhesive to both the laminate and the countertop. When they tack ubhave to align them and roll it out. And it doesnt have any play or time to allow u to align.
John...I often make simple 1x2 wood frames and I mount a metal photo (photo printed on aluminum) right to the edge so it makes a perfect desktop photo art piece. But I like to put a edge to edge piece of masonite or birch on the back side for a clean look. It's almost impossible to cut the back piece to fit exactly to the edge. So like your doing, I think it would be best if I cut an oversized back piece and trim in down with a small router. What do you think? Thanks John...Joe Homsy
I got the same porta cable trim router but I’m always burning my face trims with the frued straight lamination cut off bits, I tried soap, wax I tried keeping the blades at clean as possible with lacquer thinner but the glue still builds up on the blade and burns the finish, so do you set that campher bit just low enough to catch to top piece
Hi I m a beginner here, I just use a flush cut bit and damage the bottom laminated finish. Can anyone help me on the spec on the two bits? Because hardware shop dunno about it.
Jesemanuel Ramirez Unfortunately, not that I know of. It does the same thing for me. On the first pass with the oversized bearing, you can lower the bit to get the bearing farther away from the glue joint. That will help there but the last pass with the flush bit could still collect glue. 😑
@@Johnnykirkpatty perhaps an even larger bearing on the tapered cutter so as to move the cut further away. What do you think about glue choice for gumming things up?
How about cutting to an approximate size before gluing and trimming? This is NOT how to use a router safely or accurately, especially the last section on the back edge. That little 'wobble' at the end (which probably damaged the edge trim) could easily have resulted in a dropped router.
The bearing on the router bit will leave a noticeable mark perticulary on lighter color laminate therefore put some vasaline along the laminate edge before routing.
@@jliz6435 Fifty years ago I was struck in the eye by a nail shot from and air nailer. I mind my own business, you should do the same. I too am aware of the need to sometimes wear safety glasses. But I don't virtue signal and but into other peoples business.
Your Tip makes sense ad clearly works well ... but I can NOT fathom under what circumstances anyone would need an overhang of what appears to be one foot (maybe even 18 inches) ? Measure and cut your laminate to the size of the MDF/plywood/particle board and add 1 Inch (which should be plenty) to both dimensions to allow for an approximate 1/2 overhang on every edge. I would think that at bonding step with all that extra laminate would be a nightmare to manage.... but maybe there is a legit reason to have that much overhang ... I could be missing something ?
Safety first! Get into the habit of wearing proper eye protection, laminate is very sharp and sometimes you will need to lean in to see if the bearing is burning your finished edge. One thing we like to do as well is cut the laminate closer to size, that way you don't have to reach so far to finish off the route, good video though, cheers!!
You're not kidding mate, that laminate is like razor knife sharp when its broken and still sharp as hell when its laid up. Can't tell you how many times ive knicked myself and ended up with some nice shop scars. Heck I had a co-worker just move the stuff into the rack and he grazed my shins with a 4x8 sheet, I looked a little funny with gauze pads and tape on my legs, shit cut deep. Worst part about the finished edge getting burnt is if you get someone moving too slow and they happen to use a "god forbid" bullet bit for the self edge, but yeah that chatter after using the round over can be severe. Best way ive found to reduce that is use it in the edge that you would go with on the self edge, side to side not top to bottom.
The really cool tips and tricks that turn and "ok" finished product into a "how'd you do that?" finished product are sometimes the simple ones. This one is pretty freaking awesome. Thanks!
Awesome. Best part is this video is that its only 3 minutes !
The first thing you should do is cut the laminate to size before you glue it to the board, about an inch over size, easier to rout
Correct!
Yup
Yea! I've never seen anything like that... How do you glue just part of a sheet? Seems like more work than just cutting the sheet to the correct size with a little (1/2" to 1") overhang.
Yes, cut the sheet down first, if the sheet fractures it is razor sharp and springs outward. In this case in the users face.
Laminate trimmers use an external non-motorized guide bearing. Using bits with attached bearings on the face of laminate edges leaves a mark, if the bearing gets clogged at all, it will score.
I work with a guy who has over 30 years experience. He has a router with the same set up but we use it only when we have a "L" or "U" shape counter that we don't want seems in. Also we don't glue it down first we map it out on the counter then use spring clamps and depending on the size of the counter a partner to help hold down the laminate from shifting. We route our single peice of laminate then glue the top and laminate using wooden dowel rods to keep the laminate from sticking till we get it all lined up. Then a quick route and bevel finish it with a file.
Ive done this for 30 years, it definitely helps!
Thank you for making this tutorial video on cutting laminate with a router. It's going to really help me when I add laminate to a custom desk. A+ Cheers! 🍻
That worked AWESOME, bud! That effectively took all the risk and fear out of the process for me. Thanks!
This is great info that I could have used 24 hours ago. I had a spiral down cut flush trim bit just skim the front banding. I like down cut spiral bits over straight flush cut because especially with wood laminates they seem to leave the surface nicer but they don’t have removable barring which is their downside as there is no ajustibility.
Thanks for taking the time to share your discovery. Video was well made. No body/hand blocking. Nice close-ups, clear voice. Thank You
i did the same. It's also worth buying the highest quality flush cut bit you can buy. $20-$30 will save a lot of headaches.
Great tip, thanks for taking time to share it on TH-cam!
Great video. Ill have to try that radius trim bit on my next laminate project.
I work with a guy who has over 30 years experience. He has a router with the same set up but we use it only when we have a "L" or "U" shape counter that we don't want seems in. Also we don't glue it down first we map it out on the counter then use spring clamps and depending on the size of the counter a partner to help hold down the laminate from shifting. We route our single peice of laminate then glue the top and laminate using wooden dowel rods to keep the laminate from sticking till we get it all lined up. Then a quick route and bevel finish it with a file.
The instructions you shared with us is probably the safest way to apply and cut laminate but more time consuming. I would recommend doing it your way if you don't have a lot of experience or are working with expensive materials. Never the less, your instructions are a excellent way to apply and finish laminate. Thanks for sharing! Cheers! 🍻
There are guys who see things being done differently than how they do it and automatically assume the other person is wrong. I am not generally one of those guys. Watching this video fills me with confusion. I don't understand what I am watching. Why is the laminate cut so much bigger than the substrate? There doesn't need to be that much overhang and that makes it difficult to work with. Why are you using such a huge router and bit? Cut the laminate about 1" bigger each direction than the substrate, stick it down, use some lamilube or vasoline around the finished edge, get you a small laminate trim router with a little laminate trim bit (self guide, don't need a bearing) it can be a flush trim or a bevel trim, and rout the thing off. Go over it with a file and you're done. I wish I could paste links to images to show you what I mean. I am co owner of a cabinet shop and we do quite a bit of laminating. I have been laminating for over 10 years.
its 2020. you have a phone, record a video, and take some pictures. you figured out how to create a youtube/google account, upload a photo of your face. i have all the confidence in you steeeeeve.
I was thinking the same thing - the trick is trim you laminate just slightly over like you're supposed to.
@@crackthatheals my TH-cam channel is built by design. I don't do "how to videos" but I do know what I am talking about here. th-cam.com/video/KMTJBAb-cmc/w-d-xo.html
You are an excellent craftsman. Don't forget to protect your ears! Routers are extremely noisy.
That is the same way they did in the 1950's My Father showed me that same way in the early 70S been doing that way every since then countertops backsplashes lot of file work for the seams never needed trim. Great video and Great Job***** John any body can follow your instructions. Keep a Sharp TOOL
I guess I'm headed to the local woodworking store to modify my setup. Thank you for a great trick!
⁷ùi
Thank you soooooo much I have a router setup just for this now.
Thank You. Just about to cut laminate. Very happy I found your video.
That’s awesome and makes perfect sense. Thanks.
Excellent idea, Thanks Mate :)
Excellent tip👍👍
And you don't need tape, just spray the bearing with wd-40 every time right before use the router
Great Tip John!
Great trick. Also, those “bowl blanks” in the background should be about ready for turning ; )
Thanks!
Great smile at the end. Oh... clever idea as well :)
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing.:)
Great tip. Thanks
Excellent job👍
We call that SKILLS BROTHER nice
Hey thanks for sharing. Great tip!
- Excellently done. Thanx 4 sharing.
Great ! Do you have a link to the bit to finish? I have about 1/8” that needs to be cut back .
I like this idea! Thanks
great tip ...thanks
Perfect man. I need a bearing now..
Thank you!
Really like how you act like you "just came up with" this idea.....you're a funny guy
Rust Junky 114k views and you’re the first person to say that 😂. I am a funny guy but I legit came up with this from my own brain!! Lol
kshuf 🤷🏼♂️ not sure what he’s saying.
Awesome.
Excellent! Thanks!
Would it work to use a Freud 42-110 for the first cut? It is a 1/2" flush trim bit with a 1/2" shank versus the 42-100 you suggest with a 3/8" flush trim with a 1/4" shank ?
Nice work.
Heck I've never routed laminate, but I need to... I am not quit sure what he was explaining. I know he left roughly a 1/16 of material behind from the first pass. he said the second was a chamfer bit. So, he's 45 deg. the top?? Or is the depth of the bit set just right that he's chamfering the material just to the finished sides???
Hello. I just bought an ikea wardrobe and im planning to replace their front laminate cabinets with othee color. Whats the process of replacing a laminate cabinet? Can i paste it on top of the old one? Should i sand it first? Or should i take it out?
Good tip. What kind of wrist watch is that? Thanks.
Nice router machine first one
Bro that was great !
thanks for sharing. please take care to use ear protection; these machines are loud!
Great video, can share to us how do you cut the laminate for the side of table top?
When you use this bit Freud 41-502 1/16" Radius Laminate Trim Bit, Multi what size bearing are you using on the 2nd router with that bit a 1/4 or 1/2 bearing? I see your using a 1/2" with the first bit and I have that bit already and just ordered the 1/2" bearing...
Great tip
The best I have see thks
Dude that's awesome but me I would jus finished it off quick with a file. 10" fast file that can take of that laminate edge quick.but u gota know how 2 work it cuz u can chip it.been doing this for 7 years at the shop.good video for beginners👍🏽
I am working on my first small counters ever, and was not thrilled with how my practice pieces came out, so I ended up using this trick. Rather than file I have been finishing the remaining edge with some 60-80 grit sandpaper on my detail and multi-tool sanders. Takes a little while but I have found it to be a lot more forgiving.
Why don't you bevel the laminate edge with a bevel router bit? Much easier and cleaner than with a file.
you da man, thanks
Didnt know Marcelo Garcia was also into woodworking.
So just a random question ...a piece of laminate that size before your cutting what is the average cost of laminate that size .
Thanks I appreciate this video.
I took some of the finish off formica edge with guided bit what did i do wrong?
Does this work if you edge after laminating the face?
Which second rounder. Need name trim Formica , what do some Formica sometimes scratch on sides. Band with rouder. Second rouder have cut perfect don’t scratch somebody say me wich is name for rouder thanks 🙏
Hello is the laminate chamfered just on top or vertical and horizontal are bothe chamfered?
Great trick in the roller bearing bit.... No safety glasses though and correct me if I'm wrong here but aren't you supposed to cut the laminate ( or anything else) by going counter clockwise with your router??? That way the router never can spin away from you out of control dude...
1wolfsclaw The router I’m using must spin in a different direction. And yeah, I should’ve had glasses on. That was already pointed out.
Why not just start with the second bit? I dont see any reason why the "overlap" is cut 1 inch too big or 1 mile too big.. other than having to support a one mile overlap with one mile of table
Edit: typos..
Hi there nice video I am about to make a formica desk with birch ply can I ask you something please? How long do you have to wait until you route the edges (after the glue up) ? Also is the whole process quite easy- what worries me is , is air bubbles . thanks in advance sir
Awesome!
hey that is really good idea, I am new to doing a laminate on my own , so the edge is then bevelled ? not at right angles? have u got the specs for the bits please. You are the 1st I have seen to use 2 bits, i think everyone want to just get it out of the way, u seem to enjoy it :) , thanks in advance for answering my question
Check out a 7 degree bevel flush cut bit. It doesn't use a ball bearing
Why not cut the laminate to size of layout ?
Because you have to apply contact adhesive to both the laminate and the countertop. When they tack ubhave to align them and roll it out. And it doesnt have any play or time to allow u to align.
John...I often make simple 1x2 wood frames and I mount a metal photo (photo printed on aluminum) right to the edge so it makes a perfect desktop photo art piece. But I like to put a edge to edge piece of masonite or birch on the back side for a clean look. It's almost impossible to cut the back piece to fit exactly to the edge. So like your doing, I think it would be best if I cut an oversized back piece and trim in down with a small router. What do you think? Thanks John...Joe Homsy
maybe you can also add tape on the edge instead of buying another router bit for this task?
Larry John Ruiz if only I had seen your comment 15 minutes ago! 😭
He didn’t need a different bit, he just put a larger diameter bearing on the bit went from a 3/8 to 1/2 bearing.
What’s the bit u use with the second router?
I got the same porta cable trim router but I’m always burning my face trims with the frued straight lamination cut off bits, I tried soap, wax I tried keeping the blades at clean as possible with lacquer thinner but the glue still builds up on the blade and burns the finish, so do you set that campher bit just low enough to catch to top piece
Furryz yes. The final trim is just low enough to cut the top.
Here in the Philippines. We dont use router. We use only Pile
What is the name of bit
Hi I m a beginner here, I just use a flush cut bit and damage the bottom laminated finish. Can anyone help me on the spec on the two bits? Because hardware shop dunno about it.
Perfect
Is there a way to keep the bearing clean? Mine tends to get clogged up with contact cement
Jesemanuel Ramirez Unfortunately, not that I know of. It does the same thing for me. On the first pass with the oversized bearing, you can lower the bit to get the bearing farther away from the glue joint. That will help there but the last pass with the flush bit could still collect glue. 😑
@@Johnnykirkpatty thanks!
@@Johnnykirkpatty perhaps an even larger bearing on the tapered cutter so as to move the cut further away.
What do you think about glue choice for gumming things up?
Solvent and a rag works for me, sometime I mix in a razor to get at the hard to reach spot between the bearing and bit.
Here in the Philippines we dont need any kind of bearings. Or any brand of router. Just Pile only 1 pile.
without chipping ?
How about cutting to an approximate size before gluing and trimming? This is NOT how to use a router safely or accurately, especially the last section on the back edge. That little 'wobble' at the end (which probably damaged the edge trim) could easily have resulted in a dropped router.
Why would you need to do that ? Set your bit height rite and no problem won't damage your edges, bit to deep will tear them up.
Why do people use laminate files? I use fine sand paper on a scrap of nice plywood block.
"You can set that up based on the height you set it at." He really said that.
.--. 😂 that’s what happens on a single take, no edit video. Lol
The bearing on the router bit will leave a noticeable mark perticulary on lighter color laminate therefore put some vasaline along the laminate edge before routing.
What router bit do you use to trim the overhang on laminate counter ends ?
Joe Farruggio link is in the description
@@Johnnykirkpatty Thanks I missed that, great video.
Safety glasses 👨🔬
Wow, good to see the self-appointed safety cops are on the job.
Ed Waggoner Sr. When you’ve seen plenty of serious eye accidents like I have that could have been avoided, you become keenly aware of eye safety
@@jliz6435 Fifty years ago I was struck in the eye by a nail shot from and air nailer. I mind my own business, you should do the same. I too am aware of the need to sometimes wear safety glasses. But I don't virtue signal and but into other peoples business.
@UCr8ZgtXIhzvyREw0v16eDIQ That's what I'm saying. "Hey, everybody, look at me I CARE". Now everybody knows how much you care, feel better?
Ed Waggoner Sr. Sorry that happened to you but you above all people should care enough of others to warn them
Well… what is the bit your using on the compact router
Bare with me im not a woodworker but why couldnt have used the 2nd bit to start with and saved time doing a second pass
Anthony Cellucci When using the second bit as a cut off bit instead of just a trim bit, it tears into the face of the countertop too much.
why is it important to use the first bit first why can't you just start the process with the second bit?
What is the name of this machine?
Great trick for if you don't know what you're doing and you lay it up with two feet of laminate hanging over the edge.
on the small router it's a quarter inch roundover bit
first name last name thanks for the comment but it’s actually not a 1/4” roundover. The link is in the description.
Your Tip makes sense ad clearly works well ... but I can NOT fathom under what circumstances anyone would need an overhang of what appears to be one foot (maybe even 18 inches) ?
Measure and cut your laminate to the size of the MDF/plywood/particle board and add 1 Inch (which should be plenty) to both dimensions to allow for an approximate 1/2 overhang on every edge.
I would think that at bonding step with all that extra laminate would be a nightmare to manage.... but maybe there is a legit reason to have that much overhang ... I could be missing something ?
what is the second bit?
Here’s the link!
Freud 1/16" Radius Laminate Trim Bit with 1/4" Shank (41-502) www.amazon.com/dp/B002IPHGAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FFHKAb3K22KJQ
thanks. great tip.
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodprix.
Now close your eyes John, do you like darness or sight? put some goggles or face shield on
very wise tip man. that's something you never want to risk!
Eye protection is very important so sayeth the blind man.
It's Called Tape.
No ear or eye protection!
For me that’s not a trick but more work when u could just us the laminate cutting shears cut the laminate 1/2” or 1” longer
Safety first! Get into the habit of wearing proper eye protection, laminate is very sharp and sometimes you will need to lean in to see if the bearing is burning your finished edge. One thing we like to do as well is cut the laminate closer to size, that way you don't have to reach so far to finish off the route, good video though, cheers!!
You're not kidding mate, that laminate is like razor knife sharp when its broken and still sharp as hell when its laid up. Can't tell you how many times ive knicked myself and ended up with some nice shop scars. Heck I had a co-worker just move the stuff into the rack and he grazed my shins with a 4x8 sheet, I looked a little funny with gauze pads and tape on my legs, shit cut deep.
Worst part about the finished edge getting burnt is if you get someone moving too slow and they happen to use a "god forbid" bullet bit for the self edge, but yeah that chatter after using the round over can be severe. Best way ive found to reduce that is use it in the edge that you would go with on the self edge, side to side not top to bottom.
No safety glasses?
There's always one