@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 how about a ball return system? I had thought about trying to build one on my own with pvc. However I’m all ears at this point. I’m not a rich man and have a budget. But I’m dying to play on my first pool table that is mine. lol.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 I don’t have facebook. I did upload a video when it got new felt and rails. Plus matches as well. It’s in some of my older videos.
Looks great, I found this you tube channel after acquiring a gold crown 2. Great insight. We’re all done with the painting and polishing. I’m go to hire a mechanic to re do the bumpers and do the final build. I’m thinking of doing a rough build to make sure everything is the way I want it for for fit and finish. After watching all these videos online and reading I’m super nervous about picking out the right bumpers and having the pockets the correct size. The company I chose has been around for 30 years.
Thanks! And thanks for watching. Yeah the cushions make it a little tricky. However my table plays nice and I’m doing another video on it soon actually in regards to the cushion height. Stay tuned!
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 I got the cloth off at the mechanics shop and he said it looked like they were replaced maybe 15 years ago probably already and looked to be originals. He said they had pleanty of life in them. I’m going to watch the videos on measuring the heights to see where they sit. I’m trying to post on az billiards and I’ve been awaiting approval for at least a week.edit they measuring 1-7/16.
Phenomenal Job. I just rebuilt a cheap Mizerak table. Hey, got he table for 80 bucks so it was a good learning experience, replaced the cushions, all the cloth (Don't like calling it felt) Replaced all the particle board sides with real wood and made custom corners moldings for the side corners. Even though it's an MDF top, it plays pretty good. Now, I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 23 year old American Heritage table. Beautiful wood on this one and a slate top. The cushions were so dry rotted a layer on the corners all the way down the rail just crumbled off. And the Jack Holes at AH super glued the cushions on. SO that's been fun. But I use the weldwood like you and it grabs and hangs on very well, I have no concerns about that. About your graphics. I do custom graphics and airbrushing and one thing the will help you immensely is, Lay the graphic face down on a flat surface and use a squeegee (Bondo spreader) and go over the back applying medium heavy pressure. That'll help the release paper grip better and make it release from the backing easier while holding on the the graphic. While still laying flat, separate a corner and gently pull it at an angle, 30 to 40 degrees while also keeping the backing paper about 4 or 5 inches above the graphic. That will help keep the backing paper from pulling up on the graphics. Pulling up tends to pull the graphic off the release paper. Finally, when you get your graphic on the surface where you want it, Use the squeegee to go over the graphic. The adhesive on the vinyl is a pressure sensitive adhesive made to stick better by applying stiff pressure. If you already know all this, sorry for getting so long winded, LOL. I also got my hands on hard rock maple and, well, you can probably guess what I'm planning to do with that :D. Best of luck, I'll be watching, You're a great
Thanks for the tips! For the American Heritage they’re also know for having issues with the MDF backing that the slate screw into. Make sure if you have to use tapered shims you use a whole bunch of them all around and also be sure the slate screw bite very well. Also you’ll want to use business cards and super glue between the slates to bind them together. Sounds crazy but it’ll help the slate seams stay. Also don’t use bees wax on American heritage tables. Get the fiberglass infused bondo. The slate seams are very fussy on them. Good luck! We were one of the largest American Heritage dealers in the USA for 11 years.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 Thanks for the info. I was all ready to install the slate tomorrow and use bees wax on the seams. How many cards, all the way across? how deep from the top where the kitty hair (Glass bondo) to fill in. Is squeegeeing the bondo enough or will it need sanded and spot putty filled? And last question. Slate is not on the table yet, Would you leave the MDF or replace is with 3/4" finished plywood? Thanks for your input.
Wow!!! Beautiful work!! I’ve got an early 70’s with gutters I’ve been working on. Any chance you have recommendations for where I can get OEM pocket liners? My searches have kept me in the dark! 🤷🏽♂️ again, beautiful work! Glad you get to keep this one.
If you don’t want to sand it down, and refinish it. You could always a rub it real good with a maroon scuff pad and a degreaser. Then follow up with some old English that matches. Good luck and hope it helps!
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654it’s been a year and I didn’t even do anything to the table, just set it up and played but I really want to get it looking nice
My friend owns a print shop and I’d like to do something similar with the graphics but in grey or silver. Do you have the dimensions of the lettering ?
If folks would have seen the dungeon we pulled this out of they would think your full of bullshtine. I hope we have pics or video somewhere. When we played on it the other night i couldn’t believe it was that same table. Plays snug but fair, great job proud of you! Tonys prolly rollin over bout now.
so did you Installed K55 with out any adjustments? how play compare to k66. Im panning change my but idont know if go with acufast k66 or superspeed k55 what do you think? thanks bay the way excellent job
The best fox for these table is to have the subrail angle changed to make the k55 work perfectly. But after researching I found that doing k55’s still get a fantastic result without changing the subrail. Just have to mount them about a 1/16 lower to get the tip of cushion in a better spot. But k55 is definitely the cushion of choice
@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 Do you mind sharing the paint you used and the color? Have a GC1 that I'm working on now and wife loves the hue of that paint...
Practice drill here! th-cam.com/video/TocWOURpRMQ/w-d-xo.html
My wife just bought me a 61 Gold crown 1. This gets me excited to see how mines gonna turn out.
Awesome! They’re beautiful tables!
Turns out it needs new cushions, new ball return system and Ofcourse tournament grade felt and balls. Lol. Gonna cost me a lot to make it right.
I could save you some money on cloth, cushions and pocket facings. At least 10-20% less than online
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 how about a ball return system? I had thought about trying to build one on my own with pvc. However I’m all ears at this point. I’m not a rich man and have a budget. But I’m dying to play on my first pool table that is mine. lol.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 and yes I’d like to get a quote on prices. Thank you so much.
Headed to buy a gold crown this weekend. Hope I can get mine to look like yours. Awesome table man!
Thank you, was a ton of work. The build series is posted on my channel if you’d like to watch it! 👍🏼
Table looks amazing 😍👍. I have the same table.
Thank you!
You should find me on Facebook to send me pictures of yours!
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 I don’t have facebook. I did upload a video when it got new felt and rails. Plus matches as well. It’s in some of my older videos.
Nice!
Nice looking table. You did a very nice job on it. Looking forward to seeing what you do next
Thanks! It’ll be a shorter video. But doing a 95 year old Brunswick now!
Very nice table. Good job.
Thank you!
Looks great. Cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
You did a great job on this table, plays amazing, looks amazing. So proud of you!!
Thanks babe and thanks for watching and stuff! Xoxo
Table looks great. I have a GC1 that has Brunstone instead of slate. What felt cleaner did you use?
Thanks! I like the championship brand cleaner
Looks great, I found this you tube channel after acquiring a gold crown 2. Great insight. We’re all done with the painting and polishing. I’m go to hire a mechanic to re do the bumpers and do the final build. I’m thinking of doing a rough build to make sure everything is the way I want it for for fit and finish. After watching all these videos online and reading I’m super nervous about picking out the right bumpers and having the pockets the correct size. The company I chose has been around for 30 years.
Thanks! And thanks for watching. Yeah the cushions make it a little tricky. However my table plays nice and I’m doing another video on it soon actually in regards to the cushion height. Stay tuned!
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 I got the cloth off at the mechanics shop and he said it looked like they were replaced maybe 15 years ago probably already and looked to be originals. He said they had pleanty of life in them. I’m going to watch the videos on measuring the heights to see where they sit. I’m trying to post on az billiards and I’ve been awaiting approval for at least a week.edit they measuring 1-7/16.
Where did ya get the new old stock leg levelers and bridge holders please
Ken at classic billiards in maryland
Phenomenal Job. I just rebuilt a cheap Mizerak table. Hey, got he table for 80 bucks so it was a good learning experience, replaced the cushions, all the cloth (Don't like calling it felt) Replaced all the particle board sides with real wood and made custom corners moldings for the side corners. Even though it's an MDF top, it plays pretty good. Now, I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 23 year old American Heritage table. Beautiful wood on this one and a slate top. The cushions were so dry rotted a layer on the corners all the way down the rail just crumbled off. And the Jack Holes at AH super glued the cushions on. SO that's been fun. But I use the weldwood like you and it grabs and hangs on very well, I have no concerns about that. About your graphics. I do custom graphics and airbrushing and one thing the will help you immensely is, Lay the graphic face down on a flat surface and use a squeegee (Bondo spreader) and go over the back applying medium heavy pressure. That'll help the release paper grip better and make it release from the backing easier while holding on the the graphic. While still laying flat, separate a corner and gently pull it at an angle, 30 to 40 degrees while also keeping the backing paper about 4 or 5 inches above the graphic. That will help keep the backing paper from pulling up on the graphics. Pulling up tends to pull the graphic off the release paper. Finally, when you get your graphic on the surface where you want it, Use the squeegee to go over the graphic. The adhesive on the vinyl is a pressure sensitive adhesive made to stick better by applying stiff pressure. If you already know all this, sorry for getting so long winded, LOL. I also got my hands on hard rock maple and, well, you can probably guess what I'm planning to do with that :D. Best of luck, I'll be watching, You're a great
Thanks for the tips! For the American Heritage they’re also know for having issues with the MDF backing that the slate screw into. Make sure if you have to use tapered shims you use a whole bunch of them all around and also be sure the slate screw bite very well. Also you’ll want to use business cards and super glue between the slates to bind them together. Sounds crazy but it’ll help the slate seams stay. Also don’t use bees wax on American heritage tables. Get the fiberglass infused bondo. The slate seams are very fussy on them. Good luck! We were one of the largest American Heritage dealers in the USA for 11 years.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 Thanks for the info. I was all ready to install the slate tomorrow and use bees wax on the seams. How many cards, all the way across? how deep from the top where the kitty hair (Glass bondo) to fill in. Is squeegeeing the bondo enough or will it need sanded and spot putty filled? And last question. Slate is not on the table yet, Would you leave the MDF or replace is with 3/4" finished plywood? Thanks for your input.
Do you have any videos of the rail cloth install on the side pockets? I've always hated the fold in the cloth. I've got the same GC 1
I don’t but I’ll do one for sure.
What kind of paint did you use?
I show it in the one video. Pretty sure it was a gloss enamel
Reallyyyy nice! What’s the shelf depth on your pockets?
I don’t have a measurement handy, but they’re shallow. Even at 4-1/8 they play like a diamond with 4.5” which was my goal. Thanks for the comment!
Wow!!! Beautiful work!! I’ve got an early 70’s with gutters I’ve been working on. Any chance you have recommendations for where I can get OEM pocket liners? My searches have kept me in the dark! 🤷🏽♂️ again, beautiful work! Glad you get to keep this one.
Thank you! Give Ken a call at classic billiards. You can google his site. If he doesn’t have it he’ll figure something out for you.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 will do!!! Thank you!!!
@@jasonh3109 no problem and good luck! Do you know the model name by chance?
How do I restore the wood legs of the gold crown III (rosewood), it’s really dirty
If you don’t want to sand it down, and refinish it. You could always a rub it real good with a maroon scuff pad and a degreaser. Then follow up with some old English that matches. Good luck and hope it helps!
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 thank you sir very much for the advice.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654it’s been a year and I didn’t even do anything to the table, just set it up and played but I really want to get it looking nice
Do you know whats the font for Brunswick name?
I don’t, I bought mine from Ken at classic billiards
My friend owns a print shop and I’d like to do something similar with the graphics but in grey or silver. Do you have the dimensions of the lettering ?
I can take a measurement and post it this weekend 👍🏼
If folks would have seen the dungeon we pulled this out of they would think your full of bullshtine. I hope we have pics or video somewhere. When we played on it the other night i couldn’t believe it was that same table. Plays snug but fair, great job proud of you! Tonys prolly rollin over bout now.
Thanks and thanks for the help!
so did you Installed K55 with out any adjustments? how play compare to k66. Im panning change my but idont know if go with acufast k66 or superspeed k55 what do you think? thanks bay the way excellent job
The best fox for these table is to have the subrail angle changed to make the k55 work perfectly. But after researching I found that doing k55’s still get a fantastic result without changing the subrail. Just have to mount them about a 1/16 lower to get the tip of cushion in a better spot. But k55 is definitely the cushion of choice
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654is the same thing for gold crown 3?
@@kevinlagaresfaria9998 hello yes all GC take K55’s.
Great job do you know of anyone that would have gold crown 1 rail counters my table has gold crown 3 counters and they don't look right.
Your best chance would by Ken from Classic Billiards. If you google that it’ll come up. Thanks and good luck!
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 Thanks I will give him a try.
Where are the skirts?
Unfortunately they did not come with the table. Also I do like it the way it is
@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 Do you mind sharing the paint you used and the color? Have a GC1 that I'm working on now and wife loves the hue of that paint...
I primed it with Rustoleum primer. Then sprayed it with the Rustomeum gloss white 2x cover. Still looks great even after another move!
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 Great thank you!
@@andrewventura199 No problem