I remember the day you lifted your jeep saying that 35s would be enough for the type of wheeling and yet here you are. JEEP=Just Empty Every Pocket! lol, looks good. I run 37 with 3.5 lift and I am thinking of raising it to 4.5", mix and matching. Would definitely need front driveshaft then. Good looking truck!
I showed this thing to the CFO and said look how sweet that thing is; we need tons and 4d's! Unfortunately didn't get the North-South, got the East-West. Gonna keep trying 😆 . Ali's makes him look like a kid; what a beast!
What a beast!!! Dynatrac axles are wirld class. The fact everything works so well together is directly due to the quality of the parts you've chosen....money well spent!!!
This was the video I was hoping for! Very nicely done sir. Very honest and informative. I think your videos are the best on this channel…keep up the good work brother!
I really dig Ali's segments in these videos. He doesnt rush any lart of it and addresses real world questions. His old articles from the magazine days were good too.
Your Gladiator Rubicon looks fantastic! Nice (very nice) video, too. And your explanation is clear and concise. Thank you for this wonderful presentation!
Great vid Ali! So much good info! The braking is very impressive - and I'm blown away by your gas mileage, I get pretty much 13 - 15 mpg on stock my stock JT Rubi 33's. VERY much appreciated the camera angle at start of the video, could tell how stable it rode, plus appreciated how that lift + 40's changes your POV. (I'm jealous) I am chewing on your note about investment perspective - No need for a tow rig ... so true. For you, if you did a 6.4L transplant, you'd have parts sharing with your 392, so there's some efficiency there - somewhere! Ha! Thanks again for the vid, looking forward to future ones w/the JT. Also - if you did a vid showing how you use your drone as a spotter, would like to see how you do that and tips for doing so.
Thank you! Yes. A 392 would be awesome in the Gladiator for sure! I had not considered a drone video about using it as a spotter. I'll have to think about how I could make that one work. Great idea.
Really appreciate the break down and honest review on your rig. You definitely give me better things to consider with mine. I like the idea of retaining the factory switches for the lockers, so to me that was a cool piece of info. I also realize I need to get the dealership to look at my steering box.
Can't get enough of the 40s videos, definitely ready to see it on a road trip. Oh also not sure if you just got snow, I know some of the Carolinas did but snow footage would be fun too.
I was able to get the iron steering box through the dealer with 37's and a 3" lift. They said it may not be the box and may be tires and suspension just to cover their buts but they did it. I recently put in a PSC system anyway but the iron steering box definitely tightened it up.
Thanks for the share Ali. I’ve been watching for awhile and this would be my perfect setup if I had the $$$. Will run my stock Rubicon axles until they break or I can save up for this setup.
I think if you find the right dealership they’ll still replace your steering box. I don’t have tons but mine has 40’s a full rock Krawler suspension and Hendricks in concord NC didn’t care when they swapped mine out. Great video as usual, Hopefully ill get upgraded to tons in the future.
Good to know! At this point, I think I am going to step up to a hydro-assist setup from PSC. I'm driving out west to Moab in a few months, and I think that red rock will really tax the stock stuff too much.
If you think the brakes feel good now wait until you install the J8 master cylinder. I have the same axles and tires on my JKU with a LT1 6.2 10 speed swap. All of it just makes you smile when you drive it on and especially off road. Love the Chanel and the information keep it up
I know the advantages of the J8 Master on the the JK, but I don't know of any that have done that conversion on the Gladiator or JL. I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the note!
Hi Ali So if you were to go back and buy a JT, would it have been the Rubicon since you now ditched axles for Dynatrac? Is the T-case and sway disconnects worth it still or would you now get a stripped model and do aftermarket axles and an Atlas?
That's a good question. It probably would have been a little cheaper to start with a Sport given where it is today. But, my Rubicon isn't a super-optioned out one, so it's not a huge difference in initial price. All things considered, I would still go with the Rubicon again. The flares, factory body protection, and electronic sway bar are all great features. I can sell my old Rubi axles for a good chunk of change as well.
Do you have a parts list for the current setup? Could you make one somewhere if not? I think this is a fantastic build and would love to look at running something similar/the same.
I've made videos on every mod you see, which you can find by searching my Inside Line playlist. I was planning on doing a walkaround soon, but here's a quick rundown: - JKS 3-inch Suspension with adjustable control arms - JE Reel Driveshafts (two-piece rear) - Rugged Ridge Arcus front bumper -Rugged Ridge winch - Rugged Ridge front turn signals - Fender split - Dynatrac ProRock XD60 axles (Hard Core Plus kit) w/5.38s and Eaton ELockers - AA Products bed rack - 17-inch Trail Ready Beadlocks w/slim ring and 5.5 inches of backspacing - 40x13.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers - Tazer Mini from ZAutomotive - BulletProof Mounting Solutions dash kit I think that's everything (for now at least)
I can't imagine 40's with the aluminum steering box offroad. My 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers will bite on rocks and it is impossible to turn the wheel unless I move forward or back and that can get me out of the line I need to take. I just put in the PSC system and can't wait to try it out.
I didn't have high hopes for the stock box either, but the scrub radius of this axle/wheel combo makes it very easy to steer. I'll be doing a PSC system before long as well.
Enjoyed the vid I am thinking of going this way with my Gladiator also. I usually go the Hemi swap and 38's route but I think this time I am going with 40's
Thank you. A HEMI would be a lot of fun, but I am really enjoying this setup. I'll be driving it for Moab, Utah from NC in a few months. That will be a great test of on-road power for sure.
@@DrivingLine That is quite a drive. I live in Wilmington also 28411. I had a AEV Brute years ago and got spoiled with the Hemi and the performance so I am toying with that idea again.
Small world! I love Brute's. I always wanted a crew cab one. When I first started as a magazine editor in '07, I got to be around a handful of the TJ Brutes. Super cool platforms.
I’m only on 35s in my JL Rubicon & the steering is passable, but not ideal. I can’t imagine 40s without serious stabilizers installed. My Chevy ZR2 is on 33s & I wouldn’t run anything bigger on it either … it’s more weight & stress that some people just don’t factor, because they want the cosmetics/looks.
Wheel backspacing makes a tremendous difference. I never would have guessed that 40's would be even possible without hydro-assist, but this setup works great. I'm going to upgrade to a hydro-assist steering system eventually, but I'm very happy with how it works now.
Beautiful truck with a proud owner. My friend is ditching his 35's for 37's. His present mileage is 20-26mpg with his diesel gladiator. Is yours a diesel????
How’s uwharrie with an even wider track being that long? I saw you bumped a tail light but More width seems like a big deal there as it’s pretty cramped.
It fits everywhere fine. The taillight was my fault. I like this setup much better than before as the increased clearance allows me to take harder lines and not worry as much about the longer wheelbase.
That's a NICE RIDE!! I'm looking for an older Wrangler for a dedicated Off-Road rig. Any particular year's you'd recommend? Looking to spend $10K on the vehicle and do upgrades to it for suspension, axles, wheels, tires, etc..Keep up the GREAT work good sir! Much respect and support from Yuma, AZ. 👍👍
Thanks! It's hard to get a Wrangler for cheap these days. At least where I live it is. It used to be you could find a '97 to '06 Jeep Wrangler TJ with the 4.0L inline-six for under 10k. Now, they are nearly as expensive as a used JK. If your budget is 10K, I would look for one already modified. Thankfully, you shouldn't have worry about rust like we do in the south.
The 3.6L with the 8spd automatic is a fantastic combo. Having owned a few 4.0l Jeeps, I can tell you that this setup is way more powerful. With 5.38 differential gears, it feels great and retains overdrive on the interstate.
sure is a lot easier to bolt some axles and tires under a JT than to build an ol Crew Cab S-10, Colorado, Frontier, Tacoma, etc... I'm not a "Jeep guy" and I'm really considering a JT for a DD/"Easy wheeler"
So true! If the Gladiator had existed before I purchase my S-10, I am not sure the S-10 would have ever been built! This platform sure does make it easy if you want a solid-axle midsized truck.
@@DrivingLine I guess the follow up question is - How much better is the Gladiator than the S-10? I'd assume that dollar for dollar, the JT cost somewhere around 3x the S10 (probably only 2x if you included hours of labor). I really want to build a Colorado/Canyon, but the JT is swaying me. Plus, it has a removable top.
The Gladiator rides and drives better for sure. More importantly, you can cruise the interstate at 75 mph and it doesn't miss a beat. The S-10 is underpowered. Can it do 75? Yes. Does it like it? No. I never did sway bars on the S-10, so it doesn't handle nearly as well on-road. Off-road, the S-10 is a blast. The Atlas gives it plenty of gear reduction and makes fun in just about every terrain. The initial cost of the S-10 was only 5K, so it was way cheaper to start off with. However, I have thousands of dollars in parts under it. Between Low Range 4x4 and myself, there's a ridiculous amount of man hours building it. If you could find a V8 Colorado, that would be the way to go. However, if you want easy, the Gladiator is the ticket.
I would still start with the Rubicon. You get the better flares, extra skid plates, and the transfer case gear helps with the 40s. You can also sell the stock axles for a few grand, which helps offset some of the cost.
The 4:1 helps with crawling, but I actually prefer the 2:72 for everything else. I find myself typically moving the transmission into 2nd gear on the trail as first is often too low.
Thanks for this. I’ve been trying to figure out what the right axles would be that give me everything breaks and the right gear ratio. I’m very new to this. I have a 6 inch lift with high end fox shocks steering dampener and a TeraFlex four link. I’m on 40’s right now on stock axles. So I’m not off-roading yet. Do you think I’m gonna rip up these axles just street driving until I can afford to get the axles?
@@DrivingLine So you think that as long as I’m not off-roading this thing until I can afford the axles would be just to do butter ball joints? I mean it’s not like I’m trying to do whole shots with this thing. I drive it pretty easy I’m just enjoying putting it together. It just sucks because I got to get on those axles before I really wanna take it out into some dirt. I was looking at that set up that you had on yours it’s almost 20 grand for those axles right if those are the same ones. I found a lower model there’s still xd60s But not the pro rock ones. Same company they were going for I think around 11 grand
@@DrivingLine sorry for all the back-and-forth I’m sure you’re busy with a lot of questions. I wanted to make a strong sturdy over landing vehicle that’s good to take for trips and use as a daily driver I’m not really planning on trying to rock crawl this thing I just wanna make it bulletproof for what I’m going to use it for. Any suggestions on the axles I could be looking to get would be greatly appreciated or I’ll just have to wait till I can afford the ones you got on yours. Either way I appreciate your time and all the information I’m new at this and grateful for the work you’re putting into it.
I would do the exact same gearing even if I had a diesel. I have a friend with a Diesel Gladiator on 42s and he has 5.38 gears as well. He seems to love it.
@@mattbrew11 he does drive it on the street, but it’s not his daily driver. He drove it to Moab from Arizona last year at averaged around 15mpg if I remember correctly. Considering the elevation and highway speeds, that’s really good.
I’ve been wheeling with this setup for about a year now. The 40’s make a huge difference on the trail. The axles for me were more about reliability. If I just wheeled locally, I probably could have done 38s, RCVs and Dynatrac ball joints and seen how far that would take me. I’ve driven this Jeep cross country to wheel twice and as I am typing this, I am loading up to drive 2,900 miles (one way) to go do the Rubicon Trail. I travel all over with this Jeep. Many times I have my family with me. For me, it was well worth the piece of mind to have stronger axles. I do wish this stuff was cheaper.
@@DrivingLine yea i totally get where youre coming from. Breaking down with the family all loaded up would suck. But man thats just so much cash. I dont rock bash, or really pound mine. I try to just crawl slow until i get it up the obsticle. There are so many mixed opinions on the strength of the new dana44 gladiator axles thats its so hard to tell. I know a guy whos run 38s for over a year and done all the hardest trails in CO during that time with zero issues. Just terraflex ball joints and a lift. For me i think im going to reGear, truss and gusset, get RCVs and terraflex, full underbody plates, and 38s. But even then, ill still be thinking, “man driving line has me worried im gonna break something” lol. We are gonna run Redcone pass in CO next saturday if you want to join on your way back.
Thanks for the invite! I’m on a pretty tight schedule. My wife already had use up some vacation days just for this trip lol. I’ve got to try to haul tail back. I really don’t think the stock axles are bad. Especially with 37‘s. Ironically, I’ve already broken the E locker in my 60 once. I’ve never broken the ELocker in a JK, JL or Gladiator! So, take that for what it’s worth.
It’s definitely a big investment! It absolutely made a huge difference off-road over the 37s. That being said, it all depends on what you are going to do with the Jeep whether this makes sense. I’m getting ready to embark on my second cross country adventure with this Jeep. Having these axles under my Jeep over the stock axles is great piece of mind.
I just picked up some new front shocks, which will net me around 3 more inches of down travel. I know there are longer travel suspension systems available, but all of them will require me to lift the Jeep considerably. Not sure I want to do that just yet. Thankfully, it still rides great on-road and off.
I remember the day you lifted your jeep saying that 35s would be enough for the type of wheeling and yet here you are. JEEP=Just Empty Every Pocket! lol, looks good.
I run 37 with 3.5 lift and I am thinking of raising it to 4.5", mix and matching. Would definitely need front driveshaft then.
Good looking truck!
Thanks. It’s easy to get carried away with these for sure!
I showed this thing to the CFO and said look how sweet that thing is; we need tons and 4d's! Unfortunately didn't get the North-South, got the East-West. Gonna keep trying 😆 . Ali's makes him look like a kid; what a beast!
What a beast!!! Dynatrac axles are wirld class. The fact everything works so well together is directly due to the quality of the parts you've chosen....money well spent!!!
Thank you.
Check out the new oracle taillights for jeeps. They sit flush inside the body & you will never break em again. Plus they look really nice
I saw those the other day. I have something else planned at the moment, but if things change, I will likely buy a set of those. Thanks for the note.
Love the rig.
This was the video I was hoping for! Very nicely done sir. Very honest and informative. I think your videos are the best on this channel…keep up the good work brother!
Thank you!
I really dig Ali's segments in these videos. He doesnt rush any lart of it and addresses real world questions. His old articles from the magazine days were good too.
Thank you!
Wow I am extremely jealous of that build. I say leave those wheels the polished color. It’s a very good contrast and looks nice
Your Gladiator Rubicon looks fantastic! Nice (very nice) video, too. And your explanation is clear and concise. Thank you for this wonderful presentation!
Thank you!
Great vid Ali! So much good info! The braking is very impressive - and I'm blown away by your gas mileage, I get pretty much 13 - 15 mpg on stock my stock JT Rubi 33's. VERY much appreciated the camera angle at start of the video, could tell how stable it rode, plus appreciated how that lift + 40's changes your POV. (I'm jealous) I am chewing on your note about investment perspective - No need for a tow rig ... so true. For you, if you did a 6.4L transplant, you'd have parts sharing with your 392, so there's some efficiency there - somewhere! Ha!
Thanks again for the vid, looking forward to future ones w/the JT. Also - if you did a vid showing how you use your drone as a spotter, would like to see how you do that and tips for doing so.
Thank you! Yes. A 392 would be awesome in the Gladiator for sure! I had not considered a drone video about using it as a spotter. I'll have to think about how I could make that one work. Great idea.
Gladiator seems being built for that size of tires... with smaller it seems not proportioned...!
Good job!
It really does look very balanced on 40s.
Really appreciate the break down and honest review on your rig. You definitely give me better things to consider with mine. I like the idea of retaining the factory switches for the lockers, so to me that was a cool piece of info. I also realize I need to get the dealership to look at my steering box.
Thanks you! The kit from Z Automotive for the lockers is a bit overpriced, but it makes life easy when it came to hooking up the lockers.
Can't get enough of the 40s videos, definitely ready to see it on a road trip. Oh also not sure if you just got snow, I know some of the Carolinas did but snow footage would be fun too.
It looks like we MIGHT get snow this weekend. But, so far it's just been cold and rainy here in coastal NC.
Definitly looking very sharp with the 40's, and the polished wheels ad a nice look as well.
Thank you.
I was able to get the iron steering box through the dealer with 37's and a 3" lift. They said it may not be the box and may be tires and suspension just to cover their buts but they did it. I recently put in a PSC system anyway but the iron steering box definitely tightened it up.
Another great Gladiator vid. Keep the polished wheels no more black wheels please.
Thanks you! The polished look is definitely growing on me. I just hope I can keep them clean!
Great vid as always! Can't wait to wheel with you!
Thanks Jared!
Thanks for the share Ali. I’ve been watching for awhile and this would be my perfect setup if I had the $$$. Will run my stock Rubicon axles until they break or I can save up for this setup.
Lookin rad Ari 🤘🏻 thanks for the detailed insights
I think if you find the right dealership they’ll still replace your steering box. I don’t have tons but mine has 40’s a full rock Krawler suspension and Hendricks in concord NC didn’t care when they swapped mine out. Great video as usual, Hopefully ill get upgraded to tons in the future.
Good to know! At this point, I think I am going to step up to a hydro-assist setup from PSC. I'm driving out west to Moab in a few months, and I think that red rock will really tax the stock stuff too much.
If you think the brakes feel good now wait until you install the J8 master cylinder. I have the same axles and tires on my JKU with a LT1 6.2 10 speed swap. All of it just makes you smile when you drive it on and especially off road. Love the Chanel and the information keep it up
I know the advantages of the J8 Master on the the JK, but I don't know of any that have done that conversion on the Gladiator or JL. I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the note!
Powder coat the spokes the same color dark red as the back color as the rubicon logo and bead ring matte black. Really Beautiful truck!!
Thanks! That sounds like a cool combo.
Polish wheels for the win!!! I also think black is boring.
Sweet Rig brother, nice setup.
Thanks for the awesome insight Ali!
Thank you!
How about a custom flatbed build for it? Great info on the steering.
I'm thinking along those lines for sure.
Hi Ali
So if you were to go back and buy a JT, would it have been the Rubicon since you now ditched axles for Dynatrac? Is the T-case and sway disconnects worth it still or would you now get a stripped model and do aftermarket axles and an Atlas?
That's a good question. It probably would have been a little cheaper to start with a Sport given where it is today. But, my Rubicon isn't a super-optioned out one, so it's not a huge difference in initial price. All things considered, I would still go with the Rubicon again. The flares, factory body protection, and electronic sway bar are all great features. I can sell my old Rubi axles for a good chunk of change as well.
Do you have a parts list for the current setup? Could you make one somewhere if not? I think this is a fantastic build and would love to look at running something similar/the same.
I've made videos on every mod you see, which you can find by searching my Inside Line playlist.
I was planning on doing a walkaround soon, but here's a quick rundown:
- JKS 3-inch Suspension with adjustable control arms
- JE Reel Driveshafts (two-piece rear)
- Rugged Ridge Arcus front bumper
-Rugged Ridge winch
- Rugged Ridge front turn signals
- Fender split
- Dynatrac ProRock XD60 axles (Hard Core Plus kit) w/5.38s and Eaton ELockers
- AA Products bed rack
- 17-inch Trail Ready Beadlocks w/slim ring and 5.5 inches of backspacing
- 40x13.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers
- Tazer Mini from ZAutomotive
- BulletProof Mounting Solutions dash kit
I think that's everything (for now at least)
@@DrivingLine I couldn’t quite make out what rack you use for the tire and does it require the factory rails?
It's this one from AA Products : th-cam.com/video/9t-iwpR7KQU/w-d-xo.html
Beautiful truck. One of these days, I hope for 1 tons on my JK.
Thank you. It's hard to beat a JK on tons!
I can't imagine 40's with the aluminum steering box offroad. My 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers will bite on rocks and it is impossible to turn the wheel unless I move forward or back and that can get me out of the line I need to take. I just put in the PSC system and can't wait to try it out.
I didn't have high hopes for the stock box either, but the scrub radius of this axle/wheel combo makes it very easy to steer. I'll be doing a PSC system before long as well.
@@DrivingLineWould one of you be kind enough to explain what a PSC system is please?
Wohoo it’s always a good day at Uwharrie!
Always! Love that place!
Enjoyed the vid I am thinking of going this way with my Gladiator also. I usually go the Hemi swap and 38's route but I think this time I am going with 40's
Thank you. A HEMI would be a lot of fun, but I am really enjoying this setup. I'll be driving it for Moab, Utah from NC in a few months. That will be a great test of on-road power for sure.
@@DrivingLine That is quite a drive. I live in Wilmington also 28411. I had a AEV Brute years ago and got spoiled with the Hemi and the performance so I am toying with that idea again.
Small world! I love Brute's. I always wanted a crew cab one. When I first started as a magazine editor in '07, I got to be around a handful of the TJ Brutes. Super cool platforms.
very nice what lift do you have ? also keep the wheels polished not black.
It's a 3-inch kit from JKS Manufacturing.
Sweet build! Can you please tell me the total width you are with the 72.5 Dynatrac’s and the 5.5 backspacing TrailReady wheels with the 40x13.50’s
It's appx 85 1/2 inches wide.
@@DrivingLine Thank you! Much appreciated!
Looks awesome brother
Thanks Chris.
I’m only on 35s in my JL Rubicon & the steering is passable, but not ideal. I can’t imagine 40s without serious stabilizers installed. My Chevy ZR2 is on 33s & I wouldn’t run anything bigger on it either … it’s more weight & stress that some people just don’t factor, because they want the cosmetics/looks.
Wheel backspacing makes a tremendous difference. I never would have guessed that 40's would be even possible without hydro-assist, but this setup works great. I'm going to upgrade to a hydro-assist steering system eventually, but I'm very happy with how it works now.
Beautiful truck with a proud owner. My friend is ditching his 35's for 37's. His present mileage is 20-26mpg with his diesel gladiator. Is yours a diesel????
Thank you. Mine has the 3.6L gas V6.
So cool!
Thank you!
How’s uwharrie with an even wider track being that long? I saw you bumped a tail light but More width seems like a big deal there as it’s pretty cramped.
It fits everywhere fine. The taillight was my fault. I like this setup much better than before as the increased clearance allows me to take harder lines and not worry as much about the longer wheelbase.
That's a NICE RIDE!! I'm looking for an older Wrangler for a dedicated Off-Road rig. Any particular year's you'd recommend? Looking to spend $10K on the vehicle and do upgrades to it for suspension, axles, wheels, tires, etc..Keep up the GREAT work good sir! Much respect and support from Yuma, AZ. 👍👍
Thanks! It's hard to get a Wrangler for cheap these days. At least where I live it is. It used to be you could find a '97 to '06 Jeep Wrangler TJ with the 4.0L inline-six for under 10k. Now, they are nearly as expensive as a used JK. If your budget is 10K, I would look for one already modified. Thankfully, you shouldn't have worry about rust like we do in the south.
@@DrivingLine Thanks for the information! Can't wait to get a dedicated off-road rig!
man that is some serious heavy tires and wheels for a small v-6 ...im not experienced but id say a 4.0 v6 would be better as opposed to 3.6L
The 3.6L with the 8spd automatic is a fantastic combo. Having owned a few 4.0l Jeeps, I can tell you that this setup is way more powerful. With 5.38 differential gears, it feels great and retains overdrive on the interstate.
sure is a lot easier to bolt some axles and tires under a JT than to build an ol Crew Cab S-10, Colorado, Frontier, Tacoma, etc... I'm not a "Jeep guy" and I'm really considering a JT for a DD/"Easy wheeler"
So true! If the Gladiator had existed before I purchase my S-10, I am not sure the S-10 would have ever been built! This platform sure does make it easy if you want a solid-axle midsized truck.
@@DrivingLine I guess the follow up question is - How much better is the Gladiator than the S-10? I'd assume that dollar for dollar, the JT cost somewhere around 3x the S10 (probably only 2x if you included hours of labor). I really want to build a Colorado/Canyon, but the JT is swaying me. Plus, it has a removable top.
The Gladiator rides and drives better for sure. More importantly, you can cruise the interstate at 75 mph and it doesn't miss a beat. The S-10 is underpowered. Can it do 75? Yes. Does it like it? No. I never did sway bars on the S-10, so it doesn't handle nearly as well on-road. Off-road, the S-10 is a blast. The Atlas gives it plenty of gear reduction and makes fun in just about every terrain. The initial cost of the S-10 was only 5K, so it was way cheaper to start off with. However, I have thousands of dollars in parts under it. Between Low Range 4x4 and myself, there's a ridiculous amount of man hours building it. If you could find a V8 Colorado, that would be the way to go. However, if you want easy, the Gladiator is the ticket.
@@DrivingLine well, I'm 2 years closer to actually getting a JT to build. Built a house instead. Lame!
So doing all of the modification for the 40s would you be better off ordering an unlimited or would you still order the Rubicon. Thanks Mike
I would still start with the Rubicon. You get the better flares, extra skid plates, and the transfer case gear helps with the 40s. You can also sell the stock axles for a few grand, which helps offset some of the cost.
Ok probably going to stick with the 37s would you recommend the 4:1 rock trac does that offer any advantages. Thanks Mike
The 4:1 helps with crawling, but I actually prefer the 2:72 for everything else. I find myself typically moving the transmission into 2nd gear on the trail as first is often too low.
Thanks for this. I’ve been trying to figure out what the right axles would be that give me everything breaks and the right gear ratio. I’m very new to this. I have a 6 inch lift with high end fox shocks steering dampener and a TeraFlex four link. I’m on 40’s right now on stock axles. So I’m not off-roading yet. Do you think I’m gonna rip up these axles just street driving until I can afford to get the axles?
The most common problem I am aware of for those running 40s on stock axles is rapid wear from the stock ball joints.
@@DrivingLine thank you for the response. I appreciate all the information.
@@DrivingLine So you think that as long as I’m not off-roading this thing until I can afford the axles would be just to do butter ball joints? I mean it’s not like I’m trying to do whole shots with this thing. I drive it pretty easy I’m just enjoying putting it together. It just sucks because I got to get on those axles before I really wanna take it out into some dirt. I was looking at that set up that you had on yours it’s almost 20 grand for those axles right if those are the same ones. I found a lower model there’s still xd60s But not the pro rock ones. Same company they were going for I think around 11 grand
@@DrivingLine sorry for all the back-and-forth I’m sure you’re busy with a lot of questions. I wanted to make a strong sturdy over landing vehicle that’s good to take for trips and use as a daily driver I’m not really planning on trying to rock crawl this thing I just wanna make it bulletproof for what I’m going to use it for. Any suggestions on the axles I could be looking to get would be greatly appreciated or I’ll just have to wait till I can afford the ones you got on yours. Either way I appreciate your time and all the information I’m new at this and grateful for the work you’re putting into it.
Better Ball joints* haha
Whats your jeep got under the hood? And do you think it more power would be better?
Stock 3.6L engine with no power mods. Works fine. The 5.38 gears in the differentials make all the difference.
What is your overall height at the roof? Curious if your set would still fit in a standard garage.
It's 78.5 inches tall. Still fits under a 7ft garage door without issue.
great rim nice looking rim color。
What gearing would you do for a diesel with the same tires?
I would do the exact same gearing even if I had a diesel. I have a friend with a Diesel Gladiator on 42s and he has 5.38 gears as well. He seems to love it.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor thanks for the input. Does he drive on the street at all? Mind asking him
About mpg ?
@@mattbrew11 he does drive it on the street, but it’s not his daily driver. He drove it to Moab from Arizona last year at averaged around 15mpg if I remember correctly. Considering the elevation and highway speeds, that’s really good.
I think the million dollar question. Was it worth spending $30,000, vs RCVs 37s and full skid plates?
I’ve been wheeling with this setup for about a year now. The 40’s make a huge difference on the trail. The axles for me were more about reliability. If I just wheeled locally, I probably could have done 38s, RCVs and Dynatrac ball joints and seen how far that would take me. I’ve driven this Jeep cross country to wheel twice and as I am typing this, I am loading up to drive 2,900 miles (one way) to go do the Rubicon Trail. I travel all over with this Jeep. Many times I have my family with me. For me, it was well worth the piece of mind to have stronger axles. I do wish this stuff was cheaper.
@@DrivingLine yea i totally get where youre coming from. Breaking down with the family all loaded up would suck. But man thats just so much cash. I dont rock bash, or really pound mine. I try to just crawl slow until i get it up the obsticle. There are so many mixed opinions on the strength of the new dana44 gladiator axles thats its so hard to tell. I know a guy whos run 38s for over a year and done all the hardest trails in CO during that time with zero issues. Just terraflex ball joints and a lift. For me i think im going to reGear, truss and gusset, get RCVs and terraflex, full underbody plates, and 38s. But even then, ill still be thinking, “man driving line has me worried im gonna break something” lol. We are gonna run Redcone pass in CO next saturday if you want to join on your way back.
Thanks for the invite! I’m on a pretty tight schedule. My wife already had use up some vacation days just for this trip lol. I’ve got to try to haul tail back. I really don’t think the stock axles are bad. Especially with 37‘s. Ironically, I’ve already broken the E locker in my 60 once. I’ve never broken the ELocker in a JK, JL or Gladiator! So, take that for what it’s worth.
What kind company is your front bumper made by?
It's from Rugged Ridge. It's their Arcus winch bumper.
Yikes that's a lot of expense and work for an extra 2-3" tire size. I'll be sticking with 37/38's with my JTRD.
It’s definitely a big investment! It absolutely made a huge difference off-road over the 37s. That being said, it all depends on what you are going to do with the Jeep whether this makes sense. I’m getting ready to embark on my second cross country adventure with this Jeep. Having these axles under my Jeep over the stock axles is great piece of mind.
“Investment”
She aint flexing a lot Nice show rig still.
I just picked up some new front shocks, which will net me around 3 more inches of down travel. I know there are longer travel suspension systems available, but all of them will require me to lift the Jeep considerably. Not sure I want to do that just yet. Thankfully, it still rides great on-road and off.
@@DrivingLine I was not knocking this ride just so you know. Super nice start. Thumbs up. We who do this know it takes years to make almost perfect.
Completely understand. One step at a time, that's for sure!