So happy that TheCraftsman introduced me to your kit… have a feeling I might be taking the plunge later this year when the mk3 kit is available. Also, Loooooooving seeing you use the high temp resin mold for this! Blowing my mind right now for mass producing small parts
MK3!!! Wow! The new additions to your design are great! Would love to see a video on using larger molds with it, if that's achievable, and about shredding/recycling sprues to reuse the plastic. Thanks for taking the time to educate us! It's appreciated!!!
Your kits are really nice. One day I will have to get one. I just got into 3d printing but want to use the high temp injection molding resin to see if I can't make action figures out of actual ABS instead of resin.
This is awesome. I bought your standard kit a few weeks before you posted this and made something very similar. I'll likely upgrade to your kit and repurpose mine for a casting machine I'm working on. Love seeing the progress.
Hi, the machine itself is great, however I can't help but htink the clamping process could be made a lot quicker. Surely you could have one half of the mould static (fixed) to the machine itself, and the have the other half attatched to a lever which slides it forward. Obviously the resin inner could be replaced but there is no need for the aluminium to come away. With this improvement you could also integrate some form of water/peltier cooling into the mould and this would speed up the process loads.
Haha - Definitely. I feel like this designer just wanted to prove it could work first. Then he can focus on marketability, like speed and convenience for the operator
Looks great dude! I've been waiting to pick one of these up and I'm glad I did! What is the injection pressure on the mk3 and any special considerations when designing a mold?
I suspect that depends on air source pressure, and the cross-section of the pneumatic cylinder; 63 and 100mm are mentioned, although we’re left guessing about stroke, >150mm is likely
The stroke of the SC 63 is 200mm. The stroke on the SC 100 is 150mm. I would have preferred 200 but the length of the chamber is right around 150mm so it works fine. Just have to start with the nozzle closer to the chamber to maximize the shot.
Ordered parts to make an mk3. Any chance you can show a video on the process of loading plastic? Or maybe even changing the plastic out? Such as for a different color. How's the tolerance between the plunger and the cylinder? Is it tight enough where plastic doesn't squeeze out the top when pressure is applied? Can't wait to build mine and I appreciate that you even have an stl out for 3D printing the molds.
Are you able to inject carbon reinforced plastic in this. The is the plastic you see on many products. It has short strands of carbon mixed in the pellets. Thanks for the great video's !
Hello. From my few tests I really was not able to achieve the results I was hoping for. I might need to do some more research to figure out why the fast doesn't work well for me.
I might try to do a video once I catch up with everything else. No real tricks to it, just print and use. I may have to adjusts for flatten a few things to make sure it's all level but it was pretty straight forward.
So the inside of your mold is 3d printed? What Material do you use then? I am talking about the negative form of the piece, Not the piece itself. In one of your videos you talked about the Aluminium frame (the Box). I am Just unsure about the "in between" Aluminium and 'injection molding gap/part' :)
@@BusterBeagle3D I know the feeling! I started machining 1 part in my backyard shop 3 years ago and now it is shipped all over the world. I am still in that backyard shop but now have more products. Feels awesome when you come up with something that gains that much attention.
Really amazing project. I have a small product I'm currently 3D printing that injection molding makes a lot of sense for. The comparison is interesting. The injection molded parts look much better, and are of course stronger. But the time comparison is far more complex than how many you can churn out before the printer is done. The printer can produce while you are working on other things. The printer also scales, so you can buy bigger/more/faster printers and produce much more parts with minimal labor. Injection molding is much faster when comparing 1 to 1, but it cannot scale in the same way without also having labor to operate it. Would love to see a cost comparison for materials too. Since you can't do something like a 20% cubic infill in injection molding, you use up a lot more material per part. Which is part of what makes the parts stronger but also heavier. Using more per material may be significant depending on the price of the pellet plastic or spool being used.
I’m on the same boat. It’s looking like I’m using both my resin and fff printers for prototyping and now using the resin for molds. Then small batch manufacturing with MK3. Then I wouldn’t build a print farm but would outsource the injection molding once the money tap starts flowing.
Just watched this again after 3 weeks, paying more attention to your process. If you make a plate for your vice that reaches the full dimension of your mold, but has a ball joint at the vice, it will self-align as the vice is tightened to evenly squeeze the entire mold. This will eliminate your need to use two additional clamps. The front plate would flex, but the rear plate could be fixed. Obviously the vice could also be a short stroke fat air cylinder, but that is probably overkill for a home unit.
Awesome design. Off topic question: How is injection molding with trash plastics? I'm obsessed with recycling HDPE other low temperature thermoplastics. I have my own methods but injection molding is something I would really like to try. It's the main reason why I'm interested in your machines whenever I have the cash to build one. I know you mentioned that you will reuse those failures but I wonder about plastics that had another purpose.
If you check out my channel you will see that I have also used this with HDPE and know that others have as well. You just have to chop the pieces up really good to get a good result.
Amazing job, Id really like to buils one myself but I cant decide, could you explain me whats the difference between the MK3 and Precious Plastic's Injection?
I’m not sure that the precious plastic machine specs are but I believe they have a manual machine where you have to pull down a lever and the MK3 works with air pressure and a pneumatic cylinder to create the pressure. The Precious Plastic machine also requires some metal fabrication to assemble and the MK3 can be assembled with just basic tools.
Hello. Working on assembly instructions now as I wait on the parts to arrive from the port of Long Beach. It’s been sitting there since Jan. 2nd so I hope to get it soon but with the backups I’m not sure how long that will take.
Just curious, but instead of a vice, would just a solid block of aluminum or steel, with a tapered opening the size of your aluminum mold holder? As the actuator drives the piece in, it just gets pushed into the taper, making it a tighter seal. Then maybe a hole in the bottom for you to tap on with a hammer / punch to get the block out after each shot? Only because you're using the same mold block for each run
Interesting idea but I think the plastic may fill the cavity and cause flashing long before it would be tight enough to be the proper tightness. Let me know if you ever try it and how it worked out!
Hi Ryan really like your videos I made your first press didn't get to use it yet but now I'm thinking to go on to make the third one but when I tap on your link it will not open have you had any problem with this before
Hello. I just clicked on the links and they seemed to be working just fine. You can also just go to busterbeagle3d.com and it will take you there as well. Thanks for the support!
Is this a mk3 machine that could be bought assembled? or at least just all the parts and then self assemble? Im in africa and this would be a game changer for me. also how many presses can the resin take before it starts deforming?
Thank you. I’m sure there is a science to how long you need to hold the pressure to achieve the correct part but I am not an expert. I just count to 20 in my head because it felt right to me and I like how the parts came out so I went with that.
Hello! Thank you, your project is amazing. So, I'm looking forward building one for me. I'm willing to build custom car parts. Question. How many grans does this support? I think I'll need one that can handle up to 300g
Thank you. It's only 3 cubic inches so you are looking at about 49 grams. I don't have any chambers or design that could handle more than that. Be sure to check out the Precious Plastics website where you might be able to find a machine with a little more volume.
Ryan, I finished the MK3 build. The molds I want to shoot are lower in height. What is the best approach to mate up to lower-height molds? Raise the vise or lower the entire cylinder/and structure. I’m guessing it’s to unscrew the 28 screws.
If you have some metal plates that you could span across the bottom aluminum extrusion you could lift the mold up. Otherwise I would lower the top cylinder.
I have mainly been using PP so the current max temps of 300C for the bands was enough. If you needed to go higher then that I assume you could get higher rated bands and go to higher temps.
Excellent work. I can't wait to see this new injector in more detail. Maybe someday soon you'll walk us thru a 3D printed mold design for a basic part. I would be interested in how you choose sprure/runner/gate size. I too resin print molds. I use the Sirya Fast.
Thank you! It's all on the list of "To Do's" You can also see more detail here now. drive.google.com/file/d/1zg0rRujJQF1wtNAtguwyY8d_fwCQzAzu/view?usp=sharing
Is there any chance that resin printed molds would allow you to add conformal cooling channels to reduce cycle time substantially? or would they break? Because that would be an absolute game changer
I thought about doing that but with the lower screw on the vise I thought the top might not still get the pressure it needs. Maybe if I make the jaws thicker but we’ll see.
Do you mind sharing the 3D print resin settings on how to print the mold with Saraya tech resin did you print it at and angle or flat on the build plate if you don't mind sharing please.
Obviously your specific machine may vary with the settings for the resin but this is what I use on my Anycubic Photon Mono 2K. I also have printed both flat and on the side depending on the mold. Layer Height: 0.05mm Bottom Layer Count:6 Exposure time: 11s Bottom Exposure Time: 60s Light-Off-Delay: 0.5 Bottom Lift Distance: 5mm Lifting Distance: 5mm Bottom Lift Speed: 6 mm/min Lifting Speed: 180mm/min Retract Speed: 240mm/min
With a few small upgrades I really like it. It’s mesmerizing to watch and can actually print faster due to its design. It was the perfect “travel” printer and my whole family got a kick out of watching me make parts on it.
I love the idea of a "low price" semi-automatic injection machine. Do you expect to add a scheduler, to automate the injection time? It shouldn't be too compplicated. I also find the procedure cycle very long. Hope you'll find an easyer clamping method. But it is very promissing as is!
Hello Ryan, I just watched the build for mk1 and mk2, checked your channel and noticed your preparing a mk3. I'm excited to try and build this out once it's released, however this will be my first time assembling any kind of hardware with electronics. In this video and mk2 build video, you mention how people who already assembled mk1 can re-use parts to mk2, and so on. Will the mk3 video list all links and parts (similar to the mk1 build video) for someone who's trying to build from scratch?
Hello and thanks for watching. Yes even though the electronics will again be the same I will go over it again as well as talk about things to watch out for that I didn’t know when I was making those original videos. Working on all of that now so hope to have it in the very near future but it’s a lot so it does take some time.
I actually dropped and chipped one half of that mold. It still works but I need to reprint one side. I might do that in a new resin though. I need to finish the assemble instructions first though.
Question: I like your simple design for the injection molder. The problem I have is that I have been tried 3 - REX C100 PIDs, double checked and triple checked wiring and connections, same results every time. When I first turn it on, the temp spikes 10 to 40 degrees C over the set point regardless of what the set point is, then eventually comes down to the set point. I hesitate putting pellets in for fear of burning the plastic. Suggestions?
Sorry I just re-read you comment. Check out the UPDATES video on my channel for how to tune your PID controller and set the max temps of your bands. I know it's for the MK2 version of the machine but the electronics are the same. th-cam.com/video/1GWBhMkB2vM/w-d-xo.html Go to 4:23
Looking awesome man, just curious. Would you consider this material hard plastics? And how complex could you make a mold? And how many could you make with the single mold?
I'm not sure what you mean about considering it hard plastic but you should be able to make as many parts as you want with a mold. I have not reached the limit of my 3D printing mold yet but I'm sure it will not last as long as an aluminum version.
Nice! I have your MK1 and love it. Any plans for a way to set the plunger on a timer to release pressure automatically? It's almost time to scrap the MK1. Great vid! I'd also like to hear more about your shredder. Thanks again Ryan!
Thanks! I don't have plans currently for a timer but it would be pretty easy to do an I have seen videos on how to program the electronic values if you prefer to go that route. I am also excited to try out the shredder once I get it but might have to wait until after I get these plans out.
@@coulterjb22 Did you run the ARU 1 program on the PID . The settings should auto calibrate. Take a look at the updates video on my channel. You also need to be sure you allow the process to complete. It will heat and cool the machine 3 times. Be sure to not turn off the machine before the process is done, if you still see a blinking light it's not done. This will all make sore sense if you watch that video.
@@BusterBeagle3D Yea thanks. I got it programmed fine but having to reprogram each time while dialing in the settings for plunge-and-wait-then-retract gets old....but I'm old so I have time :). Your system is great. I appreciate your contributions.
I need to make a nearly identical part as you but in Zytel or glass reinforced nylon. Will this be capable? If so will buy the same printer you have to make the mold blanks. If not I could explore other materials it can do?
I’m not familiar with that material. If it melts under 300C it might be able to be used with this machine. I have mostly used polypropylene myself with the machine.
The 3D printed molds are a great starting point. They are relativity cheap to make and are a great way to test a design before you have one made in Aluminum. Maybe if it’s a smaller run you just keep it 3D printed mold and skip the aluminum mold all together. I also have some videos on my channel as to how I make the Aluminum molds if your are interested.
@@BusterBeagle3D yeah, i have a few fdm 3d printers. I did the silicone process and put 1/4 inch aluminum plates on each side. It was okay but the first was too squishy and the second was too hard. Need to play with it more and find a happy medium. Also need to work harder at hiding print lines. Was going to try UV resin on the surface next.
@@KernsJW I think your best bet is to use the resin and use what Ryan did. The Siraya Tech Sculpt and Sculpt Ultra resins are high temp products and perfect for mold prototypes. Ryan's molds look like they were going strong for the runs he has made thus far. Good luck I am sure you will be successful.
You just need to make sure it could be released from a mold. Think of it like a ridged ice cube tray. You would need to be able pull the mold out without it getting caught on anything.
@@BusterBeagle3D That makes sense, know I understand why Siocast uses a rubber mold, the flexibility might help. Could be possible to clamp a rubber mould?
@@nigelgear Potentially something with a little bit of flex but you have to remember the pressure inside the mold would be pretty high so it may move under that pressure.
I would only use the moulding if I needed the extra strength. If I see how much manual labour is needed to do the moulding, it's allot of work. While if you have a bit of a bigger printer, you could print a couple at a time and just let it run. In the mean time you can do something else. Of course there is improvement to be made on the moulding process to speed it up as undoubtedly has been mentioned in the comments below. But even then you'll have to separate every part from the mould, clean the mould, clamp it, inject, wait and repeat. On another note, I do like the moulding machine, simple, but effective and nice that 3d printed moulds work.
I try. Lol. All about those baby steps. I’m learning just like you guys as I get deeper and deeper into this hobby. It’s been a fun ride so far but this may be the last design upgrade for a little bit. Maybe ;)
Mr. Beagle, I have ordered the parts for mk3 from you and have been sourcing what I can from Amazon for the remainder. However, they are out of the yellow springs and I see that you are using the blue springs here. Are blue springs ok to use?
The blue are stronger then the yellow so they still work but they are almost too stiff. Really any spring that has a 10mm ID and is strong enough to push the plate back up will work.
Ryan this is awesome! I will be building this MK3 design over the next few weeks as this was exactly what I was looking for. You are even using the prototype resin technique that I wanted to try. I am going to try to inject PolyCarbonate so I think I will use the Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra for my printed molds. Just awesome!
Your MK3 design is almost perfect. I know you are going to automate the clamping section in the future. I can already envision you automating the whole thing even with ejector pins. This is so cool. Way to go Ryan.
Posted on the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook Group but for those here: These are my settings for Siraya Tech Sculpt Clear on an Anycubic Photon Mono 2K. Layer Height 0.05mm Bottom Layer Count 6 Exposure Time: 11s Bottom Exposure Time: 60s Bottom Lift Distance: 6mm Lifting Distance: 6mm Bottom Lift Speed 180 mm/min Lifting Speed: 180 mm/min Retract Speed: 240 mm/min
Thank you. I have actually gone even more manual with the final build but adding a timer would be a simple add on I'm guessing for anyone who wants it.
Hello. This is a DIY build so the price will depend on how cheap you can source the parts where you live. The stainless steel chambers are now available on the site. www.etsy.com/shop/BusterBeagle3D
Hello. I don’t sell full kits of any of the machines but do sell the stainless steel parts. The cost will probably be $175USD for the stainless parts which is the same cost as the MK2 chambers. I still need to run the price on the metal plates that the pneumatic chamber sits on but I will also be releasing the plans on those plates so it might be cheaper for you to have those made locally then buying them from me.
Potentially but not sure. I looked into that months ago but found them to either be lower pressure, slower, or way more expensive then buying a pneumatic cylinder and a compressor.
@@BusterBeagle3D aha, i came across a youtube video where they made one out off a old car jack and wiper motor, that was very strong. maybe i try that concept in future
Great job again, Ryan. I still haven't found that lost extension part to start building MKII and BOOM, there is MKIII already! :D Super cool to see how you are constantly improving, while also thinking of how to re-use most of the parts from the earlier versions. And that you put the Siraya Tech Fast in there as well ;) Can't wait to see more!
I have your mk2 kit and it’s great, definitely a good compromise between budget and capability. That being said the way you have the mk3 setup looks better in every way, I for sure will be ordering whatever is needed to take the mk2 up to the mk3. Thanks for all the effort you put into this. Do you think you will start selling larger mold frames? The one you are selling now is slightly too small for a part that I am trying to make.
Hello and thank you! I don't have any immediate plans for a bigger mold frame but may look into that in the future if the volume of the machines continues to increase. Thanks again!
I know it is horribly late but it is almost done, hoping to wrap it up this week. The parts as well as the BOM and plans for the machine are available on the the website however. busterbeagle3d.square.site/
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks a lot for it, definitely making the MK3 it’s all perfect timing for me since the first one, about exactly a year ago, it’s came a long way after a year 🎉
It for sure is the most time consuming and I will continue to search for better ways but it also gives me time for the mold to slightly cool between shots as well as the new plastic pellets I just poured in to melt.
They are feet for a xTool D1 Laser diode engraving machine. Basically it is to make sure you can have the machine in the same spot so it lines up with a grid. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5098673
Injection molding has lots of other advantages, but that is a very unfair comparison! Probably for the price of building the injection machine you could build a voron / hevort / vzbot printer and print at least four times that speed. With a 300 or 350mm bed size you could also set a full batch like you injected to print at once. And then the most important: while it's printing, you can use your time for something else, which means lower production costs too. That little delta printer is fun, but is like trying to start a CNC business using one of those $100 CNCs from Aliexpress. One example: m.th-cam.com/video/IV0G_Yuu8N8/w-d-xo.html
Seems to me that realistically tooling and prep time for the mold has to be figured in as well. However injection molding IS like the "holy grail" in the maker community. Just stating the obvious, but the resilience and strength of the parts alone far surpasses what any amateur level 3D printer can achieve. The professional quality and feel of the parts themselves is incomparable to 3D printing. I've never considered the cost of farming out an injection molding task but my GUESS would be between $10,000 -$20,000 (entry level) depending on the part(s) and prep. Limited runs is another cost factor.
I love my 3D printers and this wasn’t meant to be a video denigrating then in any way. I have 7 3D printers myself. This was mainly just to show another way of mass producing small parts that would arguably be stronger and have a nicer finish then what my FFD printers could achieve.
So happy that TheCraftsman introduced me to your kit… have a feeling I might be taking the plunge later this year when the mk3 kit is available. Also, Loooooooving seeing you use the high temp resin mold for this! Blowing my mind right now for mass producing small parts
Thanks Uncle Jessy! Always enjoy watching your channel. I was stocked when I saw you subscribed to mine. Be sure to stay tuned for more very soon.
Pun intended?
@@BusterBeagle3D Would love to see a Comparison between resin part and injection molded parts. Strength test to start. Thanks
MK3!!! Wow! The new additions to your design are great! Would love to see a video on using larger molds with it, if that's achievable, and about shredding/recycling sprues to reuse the plastic. Thanks for taking the time to educate us! It's appreciated!!!
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Awesome Ryan! Constantly innovating. Really cool - well done. Looking forward to the MK3 release 😉
Thanks Sean!
Your kits are really nice. One day I will have to get one. I just got into 3d printing but want to use the high temp injection molding resin to see if I can't make action figures out of actual ABS instead of resin.
Good luck! ABS is a little more tricky to inject with vs something like Polypropylene but it still can be used in the machine.
Amazing! When the MK3 goes live I am definitely getting a few!
hey buster beagle, any plans for a new mk4? I don't know if star building this one or wait for something with bigger mold size
This is awesome. I bought your standard kit a few weeks before you posted this and made something very similar. I'll likely upgrade to your kit and repurpose mine for a casting machine I'm working on. Love seeing the progress.
Thank you for your support and kind words. I'm glad you liked it.
Hi, the machine itself is great, however I can't help but htink the clamping process could be made a lot quicker. Surely you could have one half of the mould static (fixed) to the machine itself, and the have the other half attatched to a lever which slides it forward. Obviously the resin inner could be replaced but there is no need for the aluminium to come away. With this improvement you could also integrate some form of water/peltier cooling into the mould and this would speed up the process loads.
Haha - Definitely. I feel like this designer just wanted to prove it could work first. Then he can focus on marketability, like speed and convenience for the operator
Very cool to see this Ryan. I was just looking through your Etsy store and saw the new products.
Thank you!
Looks great dude! I've been waiting to pick one of these up and I'm glad I did! What is the injection pressure on the mk3 and any special considerations when designing a mold?
I suspect that depends on air source pressure, and the cross-section of the pneumatic cylinder; 63 and 100mm are mentioned, although we’re left guessing about stroke, >150mm is likely
The stroke of the SC 63 is 200mm. The stroke on the SC 100 is 150mm. I would have preferred 200 but the length of the chamber is right around 150mm so it works fine. Just have to start with the nozzle closer to the chamber to maximize the shot.
@@BusterBeagle3D is an SC80 too under-powered compared to the SC100?
Ordered parts to make an mk3. Any chance you can show a video on the process of loading plastic? Or maybe even changing the plastic out? Such as for a different color. How's the tolerance between the plunger and the cylinder? Is it tight enough where plastic doesn't squeeze out the top when pressure is applied? Can't wait to build mine and I appreciate that you even have an stl out for 3D printing the molds.
With already having the pneumatics added to the design, couldn't you use a pneumatic cylinder for your mold clamp?
I had thought about it but just for simplicity sake I kept the drill press vice. The vice is also helping with the rigidity of the machine as well.
th-cam.com/video/lBARBZNLxQI/w-d-xo.html
This has sparked intrest in me!
Glad to hear!
Are you able to inject carbon reinforced plastic in this. The is the plastic you see on many products. It has short strands of carbon mixed in the pellets. Thanks for the great video's !
Looking forward to seeing this finished cheers Ryan
Thank you!
Could you help me create a mold of my step file ?
Can you use rubber to make parts or just plastic ? Not a deal breaker if not, just curious.
Eagerly awaiting the release!
Working away at it as we speak!
Love it!
Excited to trade in my giant cheater bar on the MK2! When do you think the full instructional video will be out?
Awesome stuff! I wonder if the mould could be created in horizontal with the clamp working vertically to get more space for a bigger mould.
Potentially. I don't see why not. You are still limited to the 3 cubic inches of the shot.
@@BusterBeagle3D oh that's right, I have been learning about this just recently.
Enjoyed this vid. @ 6:26....have you been able to use others and were any superior to what you used in comparison?
Hello. From my few tests I really was not able to achieve the results I was hoping for. I might need to do some more research to figure out why the fast doesn't work well for me.
Hey there, greetings from Germany. I have your mk1 and i Love it. But i still struggle with the molds.. can you Show us how you made yours? Thanks
I might try to do a video once I catch up with everything else. No real tricks to it, just print and use. I may have to adjusts for flatten a few things to make sure it's all level but it was pretty straight forward.
I agree with Chris, this would be a great video to watch.
So the inside of your mold is 3d printed? What Material do you use then? I am talking about the negative form of the piece, Not the piece itself. In one of your videos you talked about the Aluminium frame (the Box). I am Just unsure about the "in between" Aluminium and 'injection molding gap/part' :)
Really cool. Would love to build 1 or 2 of these with my Adv Manufacturing high school class.
I know many people have made the older versions as school projects. It’s really cool to see my designs being used all over the world.
@@BusterBeagle3D I know the feeling! I started machining 1 part in my backyard shop 3 years ago and now it is shipped all over the world. I am still in that backyard shop but now have more products. Feels awesome when you come up with something that gains that much attention.
Hi
Nice build. Can you please share the design/dimensions of heat chamber and piston?
Very nice fabrication and design, I would love to see, how did you made this molds? Amazing never hear of it. Can you guide me?
Hello. If you check out my channel I have videos on there how I make both Aluminum and 3D printed molds.
Really amazing project. I have a small product I'm currently 3D printing that injection molding makes a lot of sense for.
The comparison is interesting. The injection molded parts look much better, and are of course stronger. But the time comparison is far more complex than how many you can churn out before the printer is done. The printer can produce while you are working on other things. The printer also scales, so you can buy bigger/more/faster printers and produce much more parts with minimal labor. Injection molding is much faster when comparing 1 to 1, but it cannot scale in the same way without also having labor to operate it.
Would love to see a cost comparison for materials too. Since you can't do something like a 20% cubic infill in injection molding, you use up a lot more material per part. Which is part of what makes the parts stronger but also heavier. Using more per material may be significant depending on the price of the pellet plastic or spool being used.
I’m on the same boat. It’s looking like I’m using both my resin and fff printers for prototyping and now using the resin for molds. Then small batch manufacturing with MK3. Then I wouldn’t build a print farm but would outsource the injection molding once the money tap starts flowing.
Love this! Acquiring parts to build the MK2 currently! Thank you!
Hope you enjoy it!
How did you make the inner-mold? I recall you did a nice video on the aluminum outer but not the inner resin. Thanks!
Hoping to do another video on that process when I have some time. It’s on the list!
@@BusterBeagle3D VERY interested to see your mold design and manufacture process, I haven't seen resin printed molds like this before
TheCraftsman introduced me to you also can't wait for the MK3 version is available.
Thank you and welcome. The wait is over. You can start getting the parts needed for the machine now. busterbeagle3d.square.site/
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the good news 😊
@@markturner5492 Thanks for watching!
So awesome cant wait to build my own for my small parts!
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
Just watched this again after 3 weeks, paying more attention to your process. If you make a plate for your vice that reaches the full dimension of your mold, but has a ball joint at the vice, it will self-align as the vice is tightened to evenly squeeze the entire mold. This will eliminate your need to use two additional clamps. The front plate would flex, but the rear plate could be fixed. Obviously the vice could also be a short stroke fat air cylinder, but that is probably overkill for a home unit.
“ball joint at the vice” ???
Awesome design. Off topic question: How is injection molding with trash plastics? I'm obsessed with recycling HDPE other low temperature thermoplastics. I have my own methods but injection molding is something I would really like to try. It's the main reason why I'm interested in your machines whenever I have the cash to build one. I know you mentioned that you will reuse those failures but I wonder about plastics that had another purpose.
If you check out my channel you will see that I have also used this with HDPE and know that others have as well. You just have to chop the pieces up really good to get a good result.
@@BusterBeagle3D Oh that's right, I just looked and I didn't finish that video for some reason. My bad.
Can you use a window motor on that vice?
Amazing job, Id really like to buils one myself but I cant decide, could you explain me whats the difference between the MK3 and Precious Plastic's Injection?
I’m not sure that the precious plastic machine specs are but I believe they have a manual machine where you have to pull down a lever and the MK3 works with air pressure and a pneumatic cylinder to create the pressure. The Precious Plastic machine also requires some metal fabrication to assemble and the MK3 can be assembled with just basic tools.
Hello nice machine ! When is the machine/the parts of the machine availaible?
Hello. Working on assembly instructions now as I wait on the parts to arrive from the port of Long Beach. It’s been sitting there since Jan. 2nd so I hope to get it soon but with the backups I’m not sure how long that will take.
Just curious, but instead of a vice, would just a solid block of aluminum or steel, with a tapered opening the size of your aluminum mold holder? As the actuator drives the piece in, it just gets pushed into the taper, making it a tighter seal. Then maybe a hole in the bottom for you to tap on with a hammer / punch to get the block out after each shot?
Only because you're using the same mold block for each run
Interesting idea but I think the plastic may fill the cavity and cause flashing long before it would be tight enough to be the proper tightness. Let me know if you ever try it and how it worked out!
Hi Ryan really like your videos I made your first press didn't get to use it yet but now I'm thinking to go on to make the third one but when I tap on your link it will not open have you had any problem with this before
Hello. I just clicked on the links and they seemed to be working just fine. You can also just go to busterbeagle3d.com and it will take you there as well. Thanks for the support!
Is this a mk3 machine that could be bought assembled? or at least just all the parts and then self assemble? Im in africa and this would be a game changer for me. also how many presses can the resin take before it starts deforming?
Super cool! Really looking forward to this coming out. One question though: how do you know how long to hold the button down for?
Thank you. I’m sure there is a science to how long you need to hold the pressure to achieve the correct part but I am not an expert. I just count to 20 in my head because it felt right to me and I like how the parts came out so I went with that.
@@BusterBeagle3D I am sure you have to wait a little longer with the mold not being all aluminum, but this is awesome anyhow.
Hello! Thank you, your project is amazing. So, I'm looking forward building one for me. I'm willing to build custom car parts.
Question. How many grans does this support? I think I'll need one that can handle up to 300g
Thank you. It's only 3 cubic inches so you are looking at about 49 grams. I don't have any chambers or design that could handle more than that. Be sure to check out the Precious Plastics website where you might be able to find a machine with a little more volume.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you!
Ryan, I finished the MK3 build. The molds I want to shoot are lower in height. What is the best approach to mate up to lower-height molds? Raise the vise or lower the entire cylinder/and structure. I’m guessing it’s to unscrew the 28 screws.
If you have some metal plates that you could span across the bottom aluminum extrusion you could lift the mold up. Otherwise I would lower the top cylinder.
Wow yeah I could absolutely use one of these. Are filled polymers a problem for you? Can you get hot enough for nylon?
I have mainly been using PP so the current max temps of 300C for the bands was enough. If you needed to go higher then that I assume you could get higher rated bands and go to higher temps.
Excellent work. I can't wait to see this new injector in more detail.
Maybe someday soon you'll walk us thru a 3D printed mold design for a basic part. I would be interested in how you choose sprure/runner/gate size.
I too resin print molds. I use the Sirya Fast.
Thank you! It's all on the list of "To Do's" You can also see more detail here now. drive.google.com/file/d/1zg0rRujJQF1wtNAtguwyY8d_fwCQzAzu/view?usp=sharing
Is there any chance that resin printed molds would allow you to add conformal cooling channels to reduce cycle time substantially? or would they break?
Because that would be an absolute game changer
Ive seen this discussed on another machine. They felt the resin mold was even slower when cooled/cold.
You should make some taller vise jaws to fully support the mold base that way you don't have to use the c clamps
I thought about doing that but with the lower screw on the vise I thought the top might not still get the pressure it needs. Maybe if I make the jaws thicker but we’ll see.
@@BusterBeagle3D if you need a supplier for any of the parts your outsourcing on this id be glad to buildthem/help out
Do you mind sharing the 3D print resin settings on how to print the mold with Saraya tech resin did you print it at and angle or flat on the build plate if you don't mind sharing please.
Obviously your specific machine may vary with the settings for the resin but this is what I use on my Anycubic Photon Mono 2K. I also have printed both flat and on the side depending on the mold.
Layer Height: 0.05mm
Bottom Layer Count:6
Exposure time: 11s
Bottom Exposure Time: 60s
Light-Off-Delay: 0.5
Bottom Lift Distance: 5mm
Lifting Distance: 5mm
Bottom Lift Speed: 6 mm/min
Lifting Speed: 180mm/min
Retract Speed: 240mm/min
Love to see your thoughts on the Delta, they've seemed to fall out of favor, but I always loved the kinematics.
With a few small upgrades I really like it. It’s mesmerizing to watch and can actually print faster due to its design. It was the perfect “travel” printer and my whole family got a kick out of watching me make parts on it.
I love the idea of a "low price" semi-automatic injection machine. Do you expect to add a scheduler, to automate the injection time? It shouldn't be too compplicated. I also find the procedure cycle very long. Hope you'll find an easyer clamping method. But it is very promissing as is!
Thank you! Working hard to see where and how things can be improved.
Hello Ryan, I just watched the build for mk1 and mk2, checked your channel and noticed your preparing a mk3. I'm excited to try and build this out once it's released, however this will be my first time assembling any kind of hardware with electronics. In this video and mk2 build video, you mention how people who already assembled mk1 can re-use parts to mk2, and so on. Will the mk3 video list all links and parts (similar to the mk1 build video) for someone who's trying to build from scratch?
Hello and thanks for watching. Yes even though the electronics will again be the same I will go over it again as well as talk about things to watch out for that I didn’t know when I was making those original videos. Working on all of that now so hope to have it in the very near future but it’s a lot so it does take some time.
Awesome! How many shots can you make before the resin mold is toast?
Nevermind, you answered that at the very end!
I actually dropped and chipped one half of that mold. It still works but I need to reprint one side. I might do that in a new resin though. I need to finish the assemble instructions first though.
What is the thickness of mk3’s heat chamber?
I made similar one like you but i think mine is too thin. I just used stainless steel pipe
The MK3 is around 10mm thick.
Looks great!!! What type of plastic did you use in this video? And what sort of plastics can you inject with?
Hello. I was using Polypropylene (PP) pellets. You can use many types of plastic as long as they melt under around 325C.
Hi Buster . Great channel ,
Thank you!
Are the components still available? also what's the investment . Very interesting
Hello. Yes you can still find the chambers at www.busterbeagle3D.com
@@BusterBeagle3D I need to talk to you whats the best contact info
Question: I like your simple design for the injection molder. The problem I have is that I have been tried 3 - REX C100 PIDs, double checked and triple checked wiring and connections, same results every time. When I first turn it on, the temp spikes 10 to 40 degrees C over the set point regardless of what the set point is, then eventually comes down to the set point. I hesitate putting pellets in for fear of burning the plastic. Suggestions?
You can try to use my settings if you like. You can just enter them manually and see how they do.
P 150
I 188
d 47
Ar 25
r 001
Sorry I just re-read you comment. Check out the UPDATES video on my channel for how to tune your PID controller and set the max temps of your bands. I know it's for the MK2 version of the machine but the electronics are the same. th-cam.com/video/1GWBhMkB2vM/w-d-xo.html Go to 4:23
what is the maximum size of the project that can be molded with the MK3 AND THED 100cc cylinder
3 cubic inches in volume.
Looking awesome man, just curious. Would you consider this material hard plastics? And how complex could you make a mold? And how many could you make with the single mold?
I'm not sure what you mean about considering it hard plastic but you should be able to make as many parts as you want with a mold. I have not reached the limit of my 3D printing mold yet but I'm sure it will not last as long as an aluminum version.
Nice! I have your MK1 and love it.
Any plans for a way to set the plunger on a timer to release pressure automatically?
It's almost time to scrap the MK1. Great vid!
I'd also like to hear more about your shredder. Thanks again Ryan!
Thanks! I don't have plans currently for a timer but it would be pretty easy to do an I have seen videos on how to program the electronic values if you prefer to go that route. I am also excited to try out the shredder once I get it but might have to wait until after I get these plans out.
@@BusterBeagle3D Setting those PID's is painful. Maybe there's another way. If something comes to mind I'll let you know. Thanks again.
@@coulterjb22 Did you run the ARU 1 program on the PID . The settings should auto calibrate. Take a look at the updates video on my channel. You also need to be sure you allow the process to complete. It will heat and cool the machine 3 times. Be sure to not turn off the machine before the process is done, if you still see a blinking light it's not done. This will all make sore sense if you watch that video.
@@BusterBeagle3D Yea thanks. I got it programmed fine but having to reprogram each time while dialing in the settings for plunge-and-wait-then-retract gets old....but I'm old so I have time :). Your system is great. I appreciate your contributions.
If, say a SC100 x 200 / 250 was used, would that require a different chamber plunger? Or could your M20 to MK3 plunger still be used?
The 200/250 is the stoke length. As long as the thread on the piston is an M20-1.5 the extension would fit.
I need to make a nearly identical part as you but in Zytel or glass reinforced nylon. Will this be capable? If so will buy the same printer you have to make the mold blanks. If not I could explore other materials it can do?
I’m not familiar with that material. If it melts under 300C it might be able to be used with this machine. I have mostly used polypropylene myself with the machine.
I might have missed it but how much are these kits going to cost? EDIT: Awesome work btw!
Looks great, makes it a lot easier to do multiple parts! I still have not come up with a good way to make molds. Any tips?
The 3D printed molds are a great starting point. They are relativity cheap to make and are a great way to test a design before you have one made in Aluminum. Maybe if it’s a smaller run you just keep it 3D printed mold and skip the aluminum mold all together. I also have some videos on my channel as to how I make the Aluminum molds if your are interested.
@@BusterBeagle3D yeah, i have a few fdm 3d printers. I did the silicone process and put 1/4 inch aluminum plates on each side. It was okay but the first was too squishy and the second was too hard. Need to play with it more and find a happy medium. Also need to work harder at hiding print lines. Was going to try UV resin on the surface next.
@@KernsJW I think your best bet is to use the resin and use what Ryan did. The Siraya Tech Sculpt and Sculpt Ultra resins are high temp products and perfect for mold prototypes. Ryan's molds look like they were going strong for the runs he has made thus far. Good luck I am sure you will be successful.
@@jackbisson9226 yeah but then a need to get an SLA and all the fixings!
I have a general question, Would be possible to inject more complex moulds? Complex as Fantasy 28mm Miniatures?
You just need to make sure it could be released from a mold. Think of it like a ridged ice cube tray. You would need to be able pull the mold out without it getting caught on anything.
@@BusterBeagle3D That makes sense, know I understand why Siocast uses a rubber mold, the flexibility might help. Could be possible to clamp a rubber mould?
@@nigelgear Potentially something with a little bit of flex but you have to remember the pressure inside the mold would be pretty high so it may move under that pressure.
@@BusterBeagle3D I see, great thanks for the answers
I see that part size that needs to be injection molded can be large in this frame but are there any limits to the max dimensions of the part?
The max size of the part is 3 cubic inches.
I would only use the moulding if I needed the extra strength. If I see how much manual labour is needed to do the moulding, it's allot of work. While if you have a bit of a bigger printer, you could print a couple at a time and just let it run. In the mean time you can do something else.
Of course there is improvement to be made on the moulding process to speed it up as undoubtedly has been mentioned in the comments below. But even then you'll have to separate every part from the mould, clean the mould, clamp it, inject, wait and repeat.
On another note, I do like the moulding machine, simple, but effective and nice that 3d printed moulds work.
just finished mk1, you are hard to keep up to :-) nice job!
I try. Lol. All about those baby steps. I’m learning just like you guys as I get deeper and deeper into this hobby. It’s been a fun ride so far but this may be the last design upgrade for a little bit. Maybe ;)
@@BusterBeagle3D it is nice that bouhgt parts can be re-used!
Mr. Beagle, I have ordered the parts for mk3 from you and have been sourcing what I can from Amazon for the remainder. However, they are out of the yellow springs and I see that you are using the blue springs here. Are blue springs ok to use?
The blue are stronger then the yellow so they still work but they are almost too stiff. Really any spring that has a 10mm ID and is strong enough to push the plate back up will work.
How many grams of plastic can you fit in that chamber??
48 Grams.
Ryan this is awesome! I will be building this MK3 design over the next few weeks as this was exactly what I was looking for. You are even using the prototype resin technique that I wanted to try. I am going to try to inject PolyCarbonate so I think I will use the Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra for my printed molds. Just awesome!
Your MK3 design is almost perfect. I know you are going to automate the clamping section in the future. I can already envision you automating the whole thing even with ejector pins. This is so cool. Way to go Ryan.
Thanks Jack! Whoa....lots to live up to there ;)
What layer times are you using on the sculpt on your mono? They aren’t listed on their website, and I’ve had varying results in printing it!
Posted on the Buster Beagle 3D Facebook Group but for those here:
These are my settings for Siraya Tech Sculpt Clear on an Anycubic Photon Mono 2K.
Layer Height 0.05mm
Bottom Layer Count 6
Exposure Time: 11s
Bottom Exposure Time: 60s
Bottom Lift Distance: 6mm
Lifting Distance: 6mm
Bottom Lift Speed 180 mm/min
Lifting Speed: 180 mm/min
Retract Speed: 240 mm/min
Awesome, I have the mk1 and will definitely upgrade! Which material did you use in the video?
Thanks for putting an MK1 together! I was using black Polypropylene pellets in the video.
Maybe a timer that starts when you press the button would be handy. Thanks for a fantastic video.
Thank you. I have actually gone even more manual with the final build but adding a timer would be a simple add on I'm guessing for anyone who wants it.
What's the shot size?
How tall is this machine when assembled? Thanks!
The height may change based on the mold you are using since the top plate is adjustable but mine is sitting at about 34 inches right now.
Hey, i am new on this channel, i am interested to get this machine. Could you please let me know the price?
Hello. This is a DIY build so the price will depend on how cheap you can source the parts where you live. The stainless steel chambers are now available on the site. www.etsy.com/shop/BusterBeagle3D
If its all packed up and shipped to europe, how expenciv will it get? The about range on the price, dont need speciffic numbers
Hello. I don’t sell full kits of any of the machines but do sell the stainless steel parts. The cost will probably be $175USD for the stainless parts which is the same cost as the MK2 chambers. I still need to run the price on the metal plates that the pneumatic chamber sits on but I will also be releasing the plans on those plates so it might be cheaper for you to have those made locally then buying them from me.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you. I get back to you when you have this sorted out😁
What material is used for injection? Would it stick to aluminum?
Many molds are made of aluminum. It would work great in an aluminum mold.
@@BusterBeagle3D How many oz does the chamber hold?
@@ballzybaits4414 Hard to determine ounces since that is a weight but it holds 3 cubic inches of material.
hi, what material do use for injection molding?
You can use many different types of plastic but I really like Polypropylene (PP)
Would you be better off having the machine horizontal?
With the current design and the desire to have backwards compatibility it needed to stay vertical but may be something to explore in the future.
Could a (12v) Lineaire Actuator also be used as a press?
Potentially but not sure. I looked into that months ago but found them to either be lower pressure, slower, or way more expensive then buying a pneumatic cylinder and a compressor.
@@BusterBeagle3D aha, i came across a youtube video where they made one out off a old car jack and wiper motor, that was very strong. maybe i try that concept in future
hi sir what is the thing color yellow inside the mold? thank you
That is a 3D resin printed mold.
@@BusterBeagle3D oh i see that is why it can with·stand the heat
Do you know approximately how much this is gonna cost to build minus the air tank?
I don’t have an exact price but I’m guessing it will be around $600.
Any way this could hold 2 oz for a shot size?
2 oz would be about 3.6 cubic inches so that may be just above what the MK3 can handle.
how much do these cost?!
Many time I've seen worse commercially injected parts, this is very good.
MK4 make it automated (small machines like that are usually horizontal).
Filter hole to mold how dia. mm?
Thanks you
The hole in the nozzle has a diameter of 3.18mm. The nozzle itself is a half dome 18.49 mm in diameter.
@@BusterBeagle3D if the inner nozzle body dia.40mm how many hole filter ? Dia. mm
Do you have this now for sale?
Yes! You can find all of the info at BusterBeagle3D.com
Great Job!!!
Thank you!
Hello teacher
How many Mpa ?Air compressor .
I wouldn't really go over .6 Mpa
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks teacher 🙏 I’m from Cambodia 🇰🇭
@@monouvichet7589 You're welcome. Greetings from the United States.
@@BusterBeagle3D I’m installing
Freakin awesome!!
Thank you!
Great job again, Ryan. I still haven't found that lost extension part to start building MKII and BOOM, there is MKIII already! :D Super cool to see how you are constantly improving, while also thinking of how to re-use most of the parts from the earlier versions. And that you put the Siraya Tech Fast in there as well ;) Can't wait to see more!
Thank you. I appreciate it!
Use to do this for a living, but on the big machines.
Shop vac injection molded parts.
I have your mk2 kit and it’s great, definitely a good compromise between budget and capability. That being said the way you have the mk3 setup looks better in every way, I for sure will be ordering whatever is needed to take the mk2 up to the mk3. Thanks for all the effort you put into this.
Do you think you will start selling larger mold frames? The one you are selling now is slightly too small for a part that I am trying to make.
Hello and thank you! I don't have any immediate plans for a bigger mold frame but may look into that in the future if the volume of the machines continues to increase. Thanks again!
Where’s the vid we’ve been patiently waiting 😬
I know it is horribly late but it is almost done, hoping to wrap it up this week. The parts as well as the BOM and plans for the machine are available on the the website however. busterbeagle3d.square.site/
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks a lot for it, definitely making the MK3 it’s all perfect timing for me since the first one, about exactly a year ago, it’s came a long way after a year 🎉
As it’s the most time consuming, there’s got to be a better way to perform the clamping process.
It for sure is the most time consuming and I will continue to search for better ways but it also gives me time for the mold to slightly cool between shots as well as the new plastic pellets I just poured in to melt.
What is he making
They are feet for a xTool D1 Laser diode engraving machine. Basically it is to make sure you can have the machine in the same spot so it lines up with a grid. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5098673
Injection molding has lots of other advantages, but that is a very unfair comparison! Probably for the price of building the injection machine you could build a voron / hevort / vzbot printer and print at least four times that speed. With a 300 or 350mm bed size you could also set a full batch like you injected to print at once. And then the most important: while it's printing, you can use your time for something else, which means lower production costs too. That little delta printer is fun, but is like trying to start a CNC business using one of those $100 CNCs from Aliexpress. One example: m.th-cam.com/video/IV0G_Yuu8N8/w-d-xo.html
Seems to me that realistically tooling and prep time for the mold has to be figured in as well. However injection molding IS like the "holy grail" in the maker community. Just stating the obvious, but the resilience and strength of the parts alone far surpasses what any amateur level 3D printer can achieve. The professional quality and feel of the parts themselves is incomparable to 3D printing. I've never considered the cost of farming out an injection molding task but my GUESS would be between $10,000 -$20,000 (entry level) depending on the part(s) and prep. Limited runs is another cost factor.
I love my 3D printers and this wasn’t meant to be a video denigrating then in any way. I have 7 3D printers myself. This was mainly just to show another way of mass producing small parts that would arguably be stronger and have a nicer finish then what my FFD printers could achieve.
In an apartment! I thought i was the only fool that made stuff in their apartment lol
Most would be surprised what you are able to achieve in a small space!
Ah jeez I just got the parts for mk2.....
Don't worry. This was designed in such a way that it uses most of the parts of the MK2 and can easily be upgraded to this machine.