Hey everyone, quick video today on how to use your 3D printer and some TPU flexible filament to make some 2 part molds for casting concrete. This method will also work for resin or anything else you want to pour (besides high temp metal of course). I’m using Meshmixer but most 3D modeling software will do the same thing. Enjoy and I’ll see you all in the next one! 👍🏻
Wow! I have been researching sofubi and silicon moulds for months and this whole time I have been thinking resin, resin, resin! It never occurred to me that I could make concrete casts! You have opened up a whole new avenue to explore! Thanks so much for making this video!
Both the owl and the gnome came out fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to share your process. I so want to try to make something out of concrete now! Have a great day!
Interesting approach, as far as the registration marks go I wouldn’t bother cutting the sphere in half, just embed normal spheres into the model and Boolean union them. then after you finish adding your registration marks to the positive side you can just Boolean it from the negative side and boom you’re done! 😊
for the Rubber bands it by be worth including a cylinder or two into the outer walls shape and splitting that along with everything. This would spread the rubber band force much more evenly especially for shapes that are not as rounded as the owl
For someone who was trying to figure out how to make models to create silicone molds for, this helps even that approach. I will probably make those registration marks holes and add magnets.
That seems like a lot of extra work and wouldn’t necessarily give you any real benefit, in fact you’d be more prone to shift lines because the magnets have quite a bit of play in them. If you’re gonna go that route I would still keep some of them as registration marks to help align the mold. Also you’re still going to need to use rubber bands to keep the pieces together, magnets alone won’t be strong enough to give it a good seal.
Also I just realized you’re making silicone molds so magnets would be out of the question to begin with unless you plan on embedding them and covering the holes up with more silicone? I wouldn’t even try that honestly, they’d be prone to delaminating and it would be a major hassle. There’s a reason registration marks are the industry standard, it’s because it works. Hope this helps, silicone is expensive as hell so I don’t want you wasting your money
@@mr.grotto okie, that should work then, I just wouldn’t rely on magnets alone due to the crazy amount of play magnets have. But yea if you have registration marks alongside your magnets you will be good to go. I still don’t really know why you’d want magnets though? Seems like an awful lot of extra work for a benefit I can’t really see. 🤔
I now only plane cut with bambu slicer. Since its slicer easily allows adding of alignment pins or dowels, its soooo much easier than meshmixer. The rest of the video was on point. Thinking about using this for some projects. One other tip, in construction, they use non specialty tools for vibrating forms. This is cheaper than buying a specialty concrete vibrating tool. I have personally used a jigsaw with no blade, or a sawzall with no blade. These can give better vibration than simple tapping.
I was trying to figure out what the shape might have to be to use PLA or PETG instead of TPU. Maybe something that's flat on the back, like you'd hang on a wall? Or would it just not work at all?
Excellent work, friend. I have mentioned your channel in my videos. I enjoy the technical edge of your content, as I work in tech during the day. Great tutorial!
@@ArtByAdrock Really appreciate this. Subscribed. Students want to often make silly modelson a 3D printer. It takes up a lot of time and the end result is average. I think using concrete as a way to bulk it out is better because its biodegradable and this process teaches them valuable steps.
I think it would have been worth explaining why you split the mold the way you did, so people understand how to do it themselves. For those that don't know, the shape of the object you wish to cast dictates how you spilt the mold. You have to consider how the two halves will pull apart, considering the hardened concrete that will be inside. If @ArtByAdrock had split the mold 90 degrees from how he did, pulling the mold off would be almost impossible because of the ears protruding up into both sides of the mold. Although that TPU might allow for more careless mold slicing. I've been working on a project, basically the exact same thing. I printed my mold in PLA, but with it being so rigid, problems arose (the shape of the cast made it impossible to remove the mold) I thought I had it sorted out on my 2nd mold, but I still had some minor hang ups. I've got it dialed in now, but I won't be messing with PLA for molds anymore, for several reasons. I can't wait to get this TPU dehydrated and in the printer!
Thanks, I probably should have mentioned that more. TPU allows for the flexibility but anything with crazy overhangs is going to be difficult. You could slice it into multiple pieces but you’ll have more parting lines and have more registration marks to include making it harder.
would you consider doing another video showing how you would implement this process on an object with a bit more complex geometry? I have one in mind if you need an example
I've been wanting to do this for so long. I was thinking of printing a positive and then casting that in silicon but I might try the TPU instead now. I didn't know mold release worked with TPU and concrete.
You’d get better detail with the silicone if sanded and primed but that costs a lot more especially for large pieces. This way is much cheaper so if you mess up it’s simple to start over. 👍🏻
how do you add air vents and other sprues using this method? I attempted using the prefabricated meshmixer models and combining them to the model but when I go in to the slicer program it is showing there is a wall between the two pieces.
That is super rad. Thanks for showing each step along the way for people not familiar with mesh mixer. How many shots have you gotten out of each mold before they become unusable?
There’s always going to be a seam it’s just a matter of trying to hide it in the right spot. You could always grind it down a little after to smooth it.
When I combine and slice and separate shells, I get multple objects and the outer model is making a wall all the way through. I don't know how to fix it. Does anyone know?
@@sackville_bagginsess check the original model you started with and make sure it is one solid piece already. That’s what I would start with without seeing it. The original could have n-gons or not joined.
I don't know if am being dumb or if this video is outdated but i followed it to the T and for some reason when i sperate shells i get 90 different models popping up
I’m guessing it’s because the model you started with was not a complete solid piece and is separated. In meshmixer if you choose “edit ->make solid” before starting that should fix your issue. You’ll probably have to adjust the solid accuracy and density though to get the detail you want. I’d have to see the model to be sure but that would be my guess.
Alternate meme method to make a concrete owl using a 3D printer: 1. 3D print some circles. 2. Cast the rest of the bleeping owl. If you know, you know. ;)
Ya life works this way. The guy on youtube with a zipper face is the one that also Lives in Vegas, makes 2x4 tables, has neptune 4 printers and makes cement molds from TPU. Bwhahahahaha Im in the Lakes. Dont tell me you like Jiu Jitsu and roast coffee also. Awesome channel by the way.
These look like things you'd put out in your garden. Nobody is going to put a hockey gnome on their fireplace mantel. :-) If you're putting it inside, just print the thing in the first place - no need to turn it into a mold to cast it in a different plastic.
Hey everyone, quick video today on how to use your 3D printer and some TPU flexible filament to make some 2 part molds for casting concrete. This method will also work for resin or anything else you want to pour (besides high temp metal of course). I’m using Meshmixer but most 3D modeling software will do the same thing. Enjoy and I’ll see you all in the next one! 👍🏻
This is the only good tutorial for this topic on yt
No seriously though
Time to make a warhammer 40k battlefield out of my garden !
40K Garden Chess Set...
Did you do it???
Dude, this was my exact first thought. lol
Am so doing that lmao
This is a concrete example of the awesome things that can be done with a 3D printer. Well done!
Haven't seen a pun like delivered so well since the Flintstones.
XD
I had a shot every time he said "I'm gonna go ahead". It's my third trip to the liquor store.
This is the exact tutorial I was looking for. Thank you!
Wow! I have been researching sofubi and silicon moulds for months and this whole time I have been thinking resin, resin, resin! It never occurred to me that I could make concrete casts! You have opened up a whole new avenue to explore! Thanks so much for making this video!
Amazing 😮 this is the easiest way to make a mold that i have seen. Thanks for sharing
Fantastic video. I will for sure make a larger scale statue for my yard. Thank you
You can just make your STL a negative part in the slicer . Then just put it in a big block cut it in half and put a hole in it
Sounds way easier. And the registration would be the edges for alignment
I've tried this. Blocks dont really bend all that well. Doing it this way allows for more complex molds.
Just huge, thank you for sharing this
You’re welcome 👍🏻
Both the owl and the gnome came out fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to share your process. I so want to try to make something out of concrete now! Have a great day!
Interesting approach, as far as the registration marks go I wouldn’t bother cutting the sphere in half, just embed normal spheres into the model and Boolean union them. then after you finish adding your registration marks to the positive side you can just Boolean it from the negative side and boom you’re done! 😊
I really liked this process and will try it soon! Thank you for sharing!
for the Rubber bands it by be worth including a cylinder or two into the outer walls shape and splitting that along with everything. This would spread the rubber band force much more evenly especially for shapes that are not as rounded as the owl
Just getting into this. Thanks for the vid!
Thankyou so much bro❤❤ I was looking for this
Beautiful, Thanks for Sharing.
That's awesome, thank you so much for sharing!
For someone who was trying to figure out how to make models to create silicone molds for, this helps even that approach. I will probably make those registration marks holes and add magnets.
That seems like a lot of extra work and wouldn’t necessarily give you any real benefit, in fact you’d be more prone to shift lines because the magnets have quite a bit of play in them. If you’re gonna go that route I would still keep some of them as registration marks to help align the mold. Also you’re still going to need to use rubber bands to keep the pieces together, magnets alone won’t be strong enough to give it a good seal.
Also I just realized you’re making silicone molds so magnets would be out of the question to begin with unless you plan on embedding them and covering the holes up with more silicone? I wouldn’t even try that honestly, they’d be prone to delaminating and it would be a major hassle. There’s a reason registration marks are the industry standard, it’s because it works. Hope this helps, silicone is expensive as hell so I don’t want you wasting your money
@@emmamarx9284 no I mean for the 3d printed molds, not the silicone. I would totally try to put magnets in the registration marks.
@@emmamarx9284 The point is I want to try. I would have registration points to align it and magnets on both sides just to pull it together.
@@mr.grotto okie, that should work then, I just wouldn’t rely on magnets alone due to the crazy amount of play magnets have. But yea if you have registration marks alongside your magnets you will be good to go. I still don’t really know why you’d want magnets though? Seems like an awful lot of extra work for a benefit I can’t really see. 🤔
I now only plane cut with bambu slicer. Since its slicer easily allows adding of alignment pins or dowels, its soooo much easier than meshmixer.
The rest of the video was on point. Thinking about using this for some projects.
One other tip, in construction, they use non specialty tools for vibrating forms. This is cheaper than buying a specialty concrete vibrating tool. I have personally used a jigsaw with no blade, or a sawzall with no blade. These can give better vibration than simple tapping.
Prusaslicer, fwiw, allows alignment structures too.
Love it - definitely going to make something. Great video
That is cool. 😊
Alright, I really want to see this done within blender xD This would be interesting, to me at least.
Well explained thank you!
for the bubbles try putinng a massge gun to vib out the bubbles or a drill on the side will vibe out the bubbles if u want
Your awsome thanks for the vids
You could print single use vase mode funnels out of recycled pet plastic to pour your cement
I was trying to figure out what the shape might have to be to use PLA or PETG instead of TPU. Maybe something that's flat on the back, like you'd hang on a wall? Or would it just not work at all?
Citric acid bath will help with some of the layer lines in the concrete.
Excellent work, friend. I have mentioned your channel in my videos. I enjoy the technical edge of your content, as I work in tech during the day. Great tutorial!
Great job! How much filament was used?
Excellent video and thanks a lot. Quite a bit of detail in the final product. would some vaseline on the inside of the mold help it come off easier?
Vaseline works but I prefer mold release. It won’t really make it any easier and if you apply too much you’ll lose detail.
@@ArtByAdrock Really appreciate this. Subscribed. Students want to often make silly modelson a 3D printer. It takes up a lot of time and the end result is average. I think using concrete as a way to bulk it out is better because its biodegradable and this process teaches them valuable steps.
Thanks
I think it would have been worth explaining why you split the mold the way you did, so people understand how to do it themselves. For those that don't know, the shape of the object you wish to cast dictates how you spilt the mold. You have to consider how the two halves will pull apart, considering the hardened concrete that will be inside. If @ArtByAdrock had split the mold 90 degrees from how he did, pulling the mold off would be almost impossible because of the ears protruding up into both sides of the mold. Although that TPU might allow for more careless mold slicing.
I've been working on a project, basically the exact same thing. I printed my mold in PLA, but with it being so rigid, problems arose (the shape of the cast made it impossible to remove the mold) I thought I had it sorted out on my 2nd mold, but I still had some minor hang ups. I've got it dialed in now, but I won't be messing with PLA for molds anymore, for several reasons. I can't wait to get this TPU dehydrated and in the printer!
Thanks, I probably should have mentioned that more. TPU allows for the flexibility but anything with crazy overhangs is going to be difficult. You could slice it into multiple pieces but you’ll have more parting lines and have more registration marks to include making it harder.
would you consider doing another video showing how you would implement this process on an object with a bit more complex geometry? I have one in mind if you need an example
I’d have to see the model you’re talking about. Send me an email and I can take a look.
I've been wanting to do this for so long. I was thinking of printing a positive and then casting that in silicon but I might try the TPU instead now. I didn't know mold release worked with TPU and concrete.
You’d get better detail with the silicone if sanded and primed but that costs a lot more especially for large pieces. This way is much cheaper so if you mess up it’s simple to start over. 👍🏻
@@ArtByAdrock Good point, love your work dude.
great video.
how many uses are you getting out of the molds?
How did you import the owl?
I gotta try TPU soon.
Looking to make full size Great Dane statues , what would you recommend …
how do you add air vents and other sprues using this method? I attempted using the prefabricated meshmixer models and combining them to the model but when I go in to the slicer program it is showing there is a wall between the two pieces.
That is super rad. Thanks for showing each step along the way for people not familiar with mesh mixer. How many shots have you gotten out of each mold before they become unusable?
@bluedot7817Know how I know you're a chat gpt commenter? Go on. Guess.
@bluedot7817 Lol it's okay bro I was mostly making a joke. 😁
How do you clean the mold?
Why do you use TPU? Is there a reason not to use another filament?
very cool 😎
What 3d printer do you use?
Where do we get files like the Owl to print?
Is there a way to avoid that seam on the sides of the statue?
There’s always going to be a seam it’s just a matter of trying to hide it in the right spot. You could always grind it down a little after to smooth it.
Hi thanks for the vide great idea ! One question is the software free to use ?
@@agguilarmetalwork4494 yes it’s free
Why not use Prusa Slicer? You can do a planar cut and it automatically generates registration marks. Even making the hole is easier. 😅
can you share the link for this stl?
@@mostafam07amed I found it on Thingiverse but resculpted it and haven’t posted it anywhere yet.
When I combine and slice and separate shells, I get multple objects and the outer model is making a wall all the way through. I don't know how to fix it. Does anyone know?
@@sackville_bagginsess check the original model you started with and make sure it is one solid piece already. That’s what I would start with without seeing it. The original could have n-gons or not joined.
I don't know if am being dumb or if this video is outdated but i followed it to the T and for some reason when i sperate shells i get 90 different models popping up
I’m guessing it’s because the model you started with was not a complete solid piece and is separated. In meshmixer if you choose “edit ->make solid” before starting that should fix your issue. You’ll probably have to adjust the solid accuracy and density though to get the detail you want. I’d have to see the model to be sure but that would be my guess.
here's a tip. use a massage gun, after you pour the concrete, to get rid of the air bubbles
Спасибо🙏💕🙏💕🙏💕 лайк🙏💕🙏💕🙏💕 👌👌👌👌👌🆗🆗🆗🆗🆗👍👍👍👍👍
make sadam husain one
Would be happy if you share the mixture/measurement you did with the cement.
Well, I guess I will be making an entire Game of Thrones map on my half acre property
Alternate meme method to make a concrete owl using a 3D printer:
1. 3D print some circles.
2. Cast the rest of the bleeping owl.
If you know, you know. ;)
Ya life works this way. The guy on youtube with a zipper face is the one that also Lives in Vegas, makes 2x4 tables, has neptune 4 printers and makes cement molds from TPU. Bwhahahahaha Im in the Lakes. Dont tell me you like Jiu Jitsu and roast coffee also. Awesome channel by the way.
So that's not 'concrete' as you well know 'hardens in 15 to 20 minutes...' uh....
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I'd of used Epoxy for small casts would look much better without any extra paint work concrete looks pants less ya throw in outside 😂😂
These look like things you'd put out in your garden. Nobody is going to put a hockey gnome on their fireplace mantel. :-) If you're putting it inside, just print the thing in the first place - no need to turn it into a mold to cast it in a different plastic.