The retrobrighting needed a lot of time. That's probably because you used only a 6% H202 solution and diluted it down to perhaps 1%, while others commonly use a 12% solution or cream product without dilution. *However* you have achieved a phenomenal result with "a little" extra time and a shot of strong Aussie sunshine. The VIC-20 looks absolutely magnificent. You should be proud of this addition to your collection!
Thanks for watching and your comment! I'm extremely pleased it turned out. You're right, it was probably a little too weak. It took 3-5 days to get a result and I did top-up the H202 a few times. My PET style VIC 20 was retrobrighted using a cream solution, and that completed in only a few hours.
Nice to see another old computer restored to it's former glory! Just to let you know "Trash to Treasure" has been trademarked by the RMC Retro channel so you might want to adjust the title.
You can rebuild the CN2 circuit board for just a couple bucks. But the disassembly and wiring is a bit difficult. You can also build a new VICKY TWENTY new VIC-20 using a brand new PCB with an old case and keyboard.
It's great all these options are available to us. I've purchased several C2N Datasettes with various issues over the years. Luckily managed to fix them all without having to replace the circuit board. Most just needed cleaning, replacement of bands, small adjustments if they're grinding against other parts, or an azimuth alignment. Thank you for your comment and for watching.
Another common failure mode on Commodore computers is that the foam-and-foil discs underpinning each key fail; thankfully, replacements are readily available.
That's an important point! I should've checked the keyboard before soldering back the shift lock key. Most keys work but there are a few that need extra presses. I'm going to try rub the conductive discs with paper. If they're worn, I might look up these replacements. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Wow what a transformation! The reveal is so satisfying. Really appreciate the side-by-side comparison 🤩
Thanks so much Myra! Glad you enjoyed this restoration, especially the big reveal!
The retrobrighting needed a lot of time. That's probably because you used only a 6% H202 solution and diluted it down to perhaps 1%, while others commonly use a 12% solution or cream product without dilution.
*However* you have achieved a phenomenal result with "a little" extra time and a shot of strong Aussie sunshine. The VIC-20 looks absolutely magnificent. You should be proud of this addition to your collection!
Thanks for watching and your comment! I'm extremely pleased it turned out. You're right, it was probably a little too weak. It took 3-5 days to get a result and I did top-up the H202 a few times. My PET style VIC 20 was retrobrighted using a cream solution, and that completed in only a few hours.
You sir need more subs. 😊
You're too kind - I'm hoping it will pick up. Thanks for your support. Very much appreciated.
Nice to see another old computer restored to it's former glory! Just to let you know "Trash to Treasure" has been trademarked by the RMC Retro channel so you might want to adjust the title.
I appreciate the info Andrew, I'll look into it. Thanks for watching.
The restored VIC-20 looks like it has just rolled off the production line. :)
I'm glad it turned out as well as it did! I'm hoping it stays this way 😄. Thanks for watching.
You can rebuild the CN2 circuit board for just a couple bucks. But the disassembly and wiring is a bit difficult. You can also build a new VICKY TWENTY new VIC-20 using a brand new PCB with an old case and keyboard.
It's great all these options are available to us. I've purchased several C2N Datasettes with various issues over the years. Luckily managed to fix them all without having to replace the circuit board. Most just needed cleaning, replacement of bands, small adjustments if they're grinding against other parts, or an azimuth alignment. Thank you for your comment and for watching.
#commodore forever !
Another common failure mode on Commodore computers is that the foam-and-foil discs underpinning each key fail; thankfully, replacements are readily available.
That's an important point! I should've checked the keyboard before soldering back the shift lock key. Most keys work but there are a few that need extra presses. I'm going to try rub the conductive discs with paper. If they're worn, I might look up these replacements. Thanks for watching and subscribing.