Whenever you do any work to your truck, before you drive it take off the negative battery cable, cover the negative battery terminal so it won't be touched. Hook a wire or test light to the positive battery wire(still connected to battery) and the other end to the negative battery wire(not connected to battery) wait 5-10min so that ALL of the power is drained from the truck so it can reset (just disconnecting the negative wire itself won't reset) then hook the negative back to the battery, turn the key to the on position for 10-30 seconds before actually turning the engine over. Then start and drive normally
Throttle position switch, right. I'm just researching, but I have a particular vehicle with a particular set of problems, many mechanically related to the fact that it's effectively a mutant F-150 short-bed. That vehicle would be my '89 Bronco. A full-size truck full of heavy-duty size parts crammed into the space of a sport truck. But heavy duty, thus heavy. I want to bypass the egr to get smoother running and more highway efficiency out of it. I presumed that this would include adjusting the idle, as I understand that blocking the egr provides a cleaner burn in the chambers and higher heat as a result, which may shorten seal life. I still do not fully get just how the egr and idle relate to the AC/defrost system, but they most certainly do. Any advice would be welcome...
You may have that new throttle position sensor out of adjustment if you were handling it and fingering it a lot before installing it it is easily turned therefore you have it out of adjustment when you put it on right from the start very important that you do not pull it out of the box and finger it and put it on
Brand new motorcraft IAC valve on my truck and it still runs like crap I'm getting rid of this Ford it's going to the junkyard I'll never buy another Ford again as long as I live I'm going back to Chevy ford is a piece of s***
My 4.9l 6cyl would idle too high on start-up. I made alum flashing gasket and left a center hole to what was about half diameter of the passage at the IAC flange. Added some red silicone sealant and was happy. Even cold my eng starts n stats down around 700rpm
@@samurphy5759 I believe you disconnect the battery, and discharge any residual charge by stepping on the brake pedal (and thus dissipating voltage via the brake lights). This fully depowers the battery, causing a reset. But feel free to google and verify.
I couldn't get any of those sensors to work so I just put the blocking plate behind egr and left the vac hose attached to the top of the egr so it would keep the engine light off
My high idle was caused by a bad throttle body went to junk yard 3 days ago cleaned up junk yard model put a new throttle cable now the idle is back to normal check for spring back on throttle if it doesn't spring back closed all the way it's a POS and look 4 broken springs on throttle body also
Will this work on a 4.9 straight 6 or what kind of delete Sim chip did you get I got one off of eBay and it did not work did you leave your EGR solenoid connect it or did you disconnect the solenoid
What I did is replace throttle body with junkyard model 50 buks I just disconnected egr wires and unplugged vacuum line to the egr my truck runs much better ya only need the egr cancel if ya want the check engine light to shut off it will remain lit but who cares right as long as she runs good 👍I also plugged that vacuum line off that was hooked up to egr .i was told by ford guy that Ford's egr valves were supposed to reburn exhaust to save the 🌎 BUT NO too many ford engineer's and al GORE and his global warming BS just goes to show hot rods and globalist are b.s. I was told that the ford egr valves never ever worked
need to check the tps voltage on idle, no more than .5v on dle from memory, early tps screw holes were slotted to allow adjust,ent. moves he engine ecu from idle to power mode if the voltage is too high.
I have a similar issue whit my Ford bronco 1987 4.9300in line 6 but mine is lower up and down and mi code 31 evap control sistem below minimum voltage I don’t know wath tis mean
I made a steel plate with two holes, siliconed it in place of the egr valve, disconnected everything and went on my way 7 years ago, but this did of course trip an engine light, did that little sensor doohickey work to keep the light away?
Will a faulty egr valve or clogged egr tube cause oil to leak from valve covers near fire wall? '96 bronco EB 5.8 with code p0104. Hopefully swapping out egr valve and PCV valve will fix the problem. Please let that tube be clean and uncracked. After seeing so many negative results from the egr delete and the high idle issue, perhaps you will re instal?
i have a 1989 Ford Bronco full size with a 302, at a idle it goes up & down over and over almost to stall i replaced the TPS that was not it then i replaced the MAP sensor and 02 sensor still at idle it goes up & down it goes from the tech 800 rpm down to 300 or less over & over, i was told it might be the EGR Valve, it sounds to me like a Vacuum i checked MAN I AM STUMP, have any ideas ? HELP !
I’ve got an 89 e250 with the exact same issue. Replaced map, iac, and tested the tps. It idles down fine with the vac line taken off the map. If anyone has an idea let me know
@@86angrybees Did your vehicle idle up & down at a idle over & over ? i changed my map and 02 sensor also the TPS all new and it does the same thing but i haven't tried to unplug the MAP Vacuum yet
Hello...How has your truck been running after you got rid of its EGR system? I read some forums saying that the Hello...How has your explorer been running after you got rid of its EGR system? I read some forums saying that the engine will run too hot without will run too hot without egr and get failed very soon. Is that true?
Yes and no. Egr or emissions do is reduce engine cylinder temperature by recirulating exhaust gas into the intake (build up carbon/lowers air quality). By doing so, it reduces NOx gas and top in power. Simply reduces emissions of CO1 and NOx. The engine runs hotter because the air quality is better from the AFR setup. Removing the emission does increase power and fuel economy. For more power = work + heat. For an example, smoker stops smoking for 2 years and they feel a lot better getting out of withdrawals. The reason for higher engine cylinder temp is to burn off the excess carbon or unburnt fuel and increases reliability and fuel mileage. Of course, back to the drawing board. If the engine runs hotter than operating temp, it will cause some expensive repair in the long run. However, if the cooling system is capable of not making it overheat, there should be no problem at all. Some engines do run a little rich after egr has been taken off. Most of the time when it comes to heat, they will usually look out for thermal energy over what the operating temp. Yes, everything factors in pretty much. Depends on how the engineers set the air to fuel (AFR) for that specific engine and application. If you ever heard of people doing emission delete/dpf delete on their cummins, powerstroke, and duramax. Essentially, the same deal but different fuel system and ignition system.
You can also buy some headers that come with the egr hole deleted already. They will also allow more flow when you look to improve/upgrade other parts of the engine.
Unfortunately it looks like the listings for these items have been removed and I can’t find similar items anywhere. Hopefully someone knows of where to find them and can post a link in the comments
It is supposed to allow the engine to make more power and allow it to run better as well. Usually it is not noticeable unless you make some other upgrades as well, such as removing or upgrading all emission related parts
@@dallassalinas9409 yes. My van is old and some of the ljjnes are worn. I had a internal leak that $1200 later still have middle issues and LITERALLY changed out everything else.
So I did an egr delete in my 94 4.9 since the delete it has a slight misfire and when I shut if off it will not restart unless I wait for about an hour or I use starting fluid all I did was plug the exaust manifold and cap the end of the egr left everything connected as far as vacume lines and wire harness any suggestions
Usually if something starts acting up after you do something you can usually trace the problem back to something that you did. However, I had a somewhat similar issue in my 92 with a 5.0 and it ended up having a hole in one of the pistons. It could also have something to do with a sensor in the egr system, but I would start checking all the basics (compression, spark, fuel pressure, etc)
Had the exact same problem on my 92, 1st check if coolant is full, second check spark plugs, one my my spark plugs were cracked on the ceramic and led to poor misfires and poor running. It also wouldn't start when warm had to let sit for 30 min
It's just a easy way to fix the egr without replacing it or the tube that runs to it. No actual gain from deleting it. The egr opens and let's exhaust into the intake at certain times which warms the fuel for better burn of said fuel which believe it or not actually makes your motor run cooler which makes it last longer and that brings us back to why newer motors with all the frustrating sensors and computers last longer than the carburetor motors did
Keeps dirty exhaust air from going into your engine. It doesn't make your engine run hotter, your cooling system keeps it the temp it needs to be. Taking the egr off let's your engine burn only clean air so more power and a cleaner engine
I don't no but I cleaned my eger valve and bolted it back but I for got to put the hose back on it before I drive it and I tell you the truth mine is a ford 96 XL and it run so dam good and I thot O my gosh got back home raised the hood and rubber hose was off put it back on and drove and it run same way before I cleaned the EGR valve I just wish I new if it would hurt it in the longi would sure leave it off or hose not plugged run like Ne😮
@@hayseedautos I was wondering about when you changed the TPS . Did u set the rest position so the TPS output reads between 0.870 - 0.970 dc volts. Basically with throttle plate closed it should read just under 1 volt. Its adjusted with the 2 mounting screws . That's why the holes are elongated. I was just wondering if that's why your idle to high.
Slavery is illegal too but that doesn't stop all these yuppies from buying lithium EVs that require slave labor in third world countries to mine the components for them.
Illogical and no one who has a brain cares. What worst is burning oil and or components from not dealing with it. Go smoke some more. Way worst for the engine and the environment not dealing with it. Guessing your from CA or NY
![[TH]FFWS SEA 2024 Fall - Knockout Stage Day 5](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/N2tl9xkQyyU/mqdefault.jpg)
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
Whenever you do any work to your truck, before you drive it take off the negative battery cable, cover the negative battery terminal so it won't be touched. Hook a wire or test light to the positive battery wire(still connected to battery) and the other end to the negative battery wire(not connected to battery) wait 5-10min so that ALL of the power is drained from the truck so it can reset (just disconnecting the negative wire itself won't reset) then hook the negative back to the battery, turn the key to the on position for 10-30 seconds before actually turning the engine over. Then start and drive normally
We all know that
@@racheleller5252 now you do, you're welcome
@@racheleller5252I did not know that mr fancy pants, fuck you
Not everyone you would be surprised
The high idle is caused by tps voltage greater than 0.95VDC at idle. You can try to “reclock” your tps by loosening it and turning it ccw
Throttle position switch, right. I'm just researching, but I have a particular vehicle with a particular set of problems, many mechanically related to the fact that it's effectively a mutant F-150 short-bed. That vehicle would be my '89 Bronco. A full-size truck full of heavy-duty size parts crammed into the space of a sport truck. But heavy duty, thus heavy.
I want to bypass the egr to get smoother running and more highway efficiency out of it. I presumed that this would include adjusting the idle, as I understand that blocking the egr provides a cleaner burn in the chambers and higher heat as a result, which may shorten seal life. I still do not fully get just how the egr and idle relate to the AC/defrost system, but they most certainly do.
Any advice would be welcome...
That's forward defrost off the dash fans, rear window is that lined heat tape stuff they used back in the '80s...
you should clean the area with a wire brush.. before put the delete kit.. just a little observation 👍 don't get mad 🙏
If the egr is set closed unless it gets a signal just keep the egr on just use the plug. You don't have to even use the block off plate. Save the $20.
You may have that new throttle position sensor out of adjustment if you were handling it and fingering it a lot before installing it it is easily turned therefore you have it out of adjustment when you put it on right from the start very important that you do not pull it out of the box and finger it and put it on
🫴
when i have high or low idle with EFI it's the idle-air-controle stuck or sticking usualy or a vacuum leak.
Brand new motorcraft IAC valve on my truck and it still runs like crap I'm getting rid of this Ford it's going to the junkyard I'll never buy another Ford again as long as I live I'm going back to Chevy ford is a piece of s***
@@matthewkyle3793 🤣🤣🤣
@@matthewkyle3793 spark plugs bro make sure all your vacuum lines r connected my 89 has pulled my ass around since 89 bro
@@matthewkyle3793 Ummm dude. Your doing something wrong. Inline 6 are indestructible.
@@darkdestroyer2837ol' Matt has got bowtie brigade mentality.
If you haven’t, buy the correct size plate and then recheck your vacuum lines. Mine did that and it turned out to be a vacuum leak 👍
Thanks
Same
My 4.9l 6cyl would idle too high on start-up.
I made alum flashing gasket and left a center hole to what was about half diameter of the passage at the IAC flange. Added some red silicone sealant and was happy. Even cold my eng starts n stats down around 700rpm
When you say idled too high, would you mean 1200-1400 too high?
Try resetting your ecm and it will relearn its idle, shift points etc. necessary when modifying components
How do you reset the ecm
@@samurphy5759 I believe you disconnect the battery, and discharge any residual charge by stepping on the brake pedal (and thus dissipating voltage via the brake lights). This fully depowers the battery, causing a reset.
But feel free to google and verify.
Correct sir
I think the engine is louder than you 😂
Good vid thank you. Tryin to decide if i should it on my rig now.....stupid inspections.
check your local laws if your vehicle is old enough you dont need to pass inspections or emissions
I couldn't get any of those sensors to work so I just put the blocking plate behind egr and left the vac hose attached to the top of the egr so it would keep the engine light off
Good thinking 👍
When you did this did you remove the exhaust tube
@@ravenbice2168 yes I plugged the hole on the manifolds as well and just left a little piece of the egr tube hanging
My high idle was caused by a bad throttle body went to junk yard 3 days ago cleaned up junk yard model put a new throttle cable now the idle is back to normal check for spring back on throttle if it doesn't spring back closed all the way it's a POS and look 4 broken springs on throttle body also
Will this work on a 4.9 straight 6 or what kind of delete Sim chip did you get I got one off of eBay and it did not work did you leave your EGR solenoid connect it or did you disconnect the solenoid
What I did is replace throttle body with junkyard model 50 buks I just disconnected egr wires and unplugged vacuum line to the egr my truck runs much better ya only need the egr cancel if ya want the check engine light to shut off it will remain lit but who cares right as long as she runs good 👍I also plugged that vacuum line off that was hooked up to egr .i was told by ford guy that Ford's egr valves were supposed to reburn exhaust to save the 🌎 BUT NO too many ford engineer's and al GORE and his global warming BS just goes to show hot rods and globalist are b.s. I was told that the ford egr valves never ever worked
I just filled mine with permetex red gasket sealer and it works fine. I let it dry overnight.
need to check the tps voltage on idle, no more than .5v on dle from memory, early tps screw holes were slotted to allow adjust,ent. moves he engine ecu from idle to power mode if the voltage is too high.
I have a similar issue whit my Ford bronco 1987 4.9300in line 6 but mine is lower up and down and mi code 31 evap control sistem below minimum voltage I don’t know wath tis mean
0.8-1
@@mobeans7945 its been a while, thankyou for the info.
Why not just plug the vacuum line?
a GM starter shim works great also
Great tips! Thankyou! God bless!
I made a steel plate with two holes, siliconed it in place of the egr valve, disconnected everything and went on my way 7 years ago, but this did of course trip an engine light, did that little sensor doohickey work to keep the light away?
It kept the light on mine from coming on
@@hayseedautos i can’t find it on ebay any help?
@@jakehumphreys4797 egrperformance.com 60 bucks
www.egrperformance.com/products/egr-delete-for-1986-1995-ford-f150-f250-2-8l-4-9l-5-0l-5-8l-7-5l-bronco-egr-simulator-eliminator-delete?variant=31878711214140&Google%20Shopping¤cy=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmfmABhCHARIsACwPRAAtcSzwW7JLKmd-xMqVT7x1RXmNyvc7F98UnfXRTT2smeWwfFFmVD8aAu7XEALw_wcB
Will it work with a 96 5.0
@@jamescorless6366 any reviews on that website?
What’s the benefit of doing this?
Removing unnecessary crap from your engine.
I took of my hose to mine but left connecter it was like driving a new truck so much or power
You need to do a smog delete if you do a egr delete
I deleted my smog pump do I need to do the egr
@@danielpadgett2831 no you don’t
@@JoshAllen-bw3yx Did you swap belts or use an idler pulley? If new belt, what size?
Just take off the smog pump, take the 3 bolts off the back of it, take out the insides, put back together and you have a free pulley
88.5" works perfect on my 5.0 302. '89 F150
Did you notice any increase in MPG?
No
I believe you need to unhook the battery then hook it back up and then the computer will relearn
Will a faulty egr valve or clogged egr tube cause oil to leak from valve covers near fire wall? '96 bronco EB 5.8 with code p0104. Hopefully swapping out egr valve and PCV valve will fix the problem. Please let that tube be clean and uncracked.
After seeing so many negative results from the egr delete and the high idle issue, perhaps you will re instal?
Never remove or block the PCV valve, You will build pressure in the crank case and blow out the rear main seal or some other one.
What about the vacum and control vlve behind the intake?
It won't run with out the purge valve
Shoot that Hawk it's after your chickens
I have chickens and when I heard that sound, I was like, “Uh oh…”
California sent me to do Star state smog lol can't do this. Bought that obd1 ford scanner and it says EGR valve doesn't open.
California makes you emission old vehicles like this?
@@dekoldrick ya.. my 95 f150 with the inline passed last year. 76 and older dont need too here.
I've heard of people plating behind the egr and still pass smog. sneaky sneaky
i have a 1989 Ford Bronco full size with a 302, at a idle it goes up & down over and over almost to stall i replaced the TPS that was not it then i replaced the MAP sensor and 02 sensor still at idle it goes up & down it goes from the tech 800 rpm down to 300 or less over & over, i was told it might be the EGR Valve, it sounds to me like a Vacuum i checked MAN I AM STUMP, have any ideas ? HELP !
I’ve got an 89 e250 with the exact same issue. Replaced map, iac, and tested the tps. It idles down fine with the vac line taken off the map. If anyone has an idea let me know
@@86angrybees Did your vehicle idle up & down at a idle over & over ? i changed my map and 02 sensor also the TPS all new and it does the same thing but i haven't tried to unplug the MAP Vacuum yet
Its A Stuck or dirty EGR. Buy new or clean. Up to you. Or delete it for good
@@anthonydejesus5046 Thanks for the reply but it was the Idle speed control, i was going to check it but i knew that wasn't it, How wrong i was ...
Vacuum leaks spray parts cleaner on all your hoses and Vacuum lines Idle will change when you hit a leak
Do you still have the old parts?
What did you search for the plug in because I can’t find it
Hello...How has your truck been running after you got rid of its EGR system? I read some forums saying that the Hello...How has your explorer been running after you got rid of its EGR system? I read some forums saying that the engine will run too hot without will run too hot without egr and get failed very soon. Is that true?
Yes and no. Egr or emissions do is reduce engine cylinder temperature by recirulating exhaust gas into the intake (build up carbon/lowers air quality). By doing so, it reduces NOx gas and top in power. Simply reduces emissions of CO1 and NOx. The engine runs hotter because the air quality is better from the AFR setup. Removing the emission does increase power and fuel economy. For more power = work + heat. For an example, smoker stops smoking for 2 years and they feel a lot better getting out of withdrawals. The reason for higher engine cylinder temp is to burn off the excess carbon or unburnt fuel and increases reliability and fuel mileage.
Of course, back to the drawing board. If the engine runs hotter than operating temp, it will cause some expensive repair in the long run. However, if the cooling system is capable of not making it overheat, there should be no problem at all. Some engines do run a little rich after egr has been taken off. Most of the time when it comes to heat, they will usually look out for thermal energy over what the operating temp. Yes, everything factors in pretty much. Depends on how the engineers set the air to fuel (AFR) for that specific engine and application.
If you ever heard of people doing emission delete/dpf delete on their cummins, powerstroke, and duramax. Essentially, the same deal but different fuel system and ignition system.
@@yanglue611 Thank you very much for the info provided!
I ordered the egr late but come in without the gasket, wonder if I could make one from a cork page.
That should work
@@hayseedautos Thank you much!! since I thought it may not het too hot there, and it would be blocked.
I couldn’t hear you over the engine, what did you use to plug the bottom of the egr, where that metal hose was?
I shoved large bolt wrapped with some aluminum foil down it
You can also buy some headers that come with the egr hole deleted already. They will also allow more flow when you look to improve/upgrade other parts of the engine.
anyone try that electrical adapter on a 460? I've got a 1997 F350 I'm thinking about doing this on.
Same
Where can I find the plug at I’ve look all over and can’t find it
Truck Tok has a kit for $75 with plate and sensor
@Hayseed Autos can you provide links from where you bought these having issues with my f-250 and need to follow this procedure TY in Advance .. PJC Sr
Unfortunately it looks like the listings for these items have been removed and I can’t find similar items anywhere. Hopefully someone knows of where to find them and can post a link in the comments
@@hayseedautos TY for your time and reply it is highly appriciated > if you ever do find anything out let me know please
What those blocking the erg do and does it make the engine run better or worse.?
It is supposed to allow the engine to make more power and allow it to run better as well. Usually it is not noticeable unless you make some other upgrades as well, such as removing or upgrading all emission related parts
K. Thanks.
We're can I get a complete vacuum harness. I have the 5.8l in my 93 E150
I would assume you could find one at your local auto parts store, or online
@@mendozaconsultation are you trying to replace every vaccum line
@@dallassalinas9409 yes. My van is old and some of the ljjnes are worn. I had a internal leak that $1200 later still have middle issues and LITERALLY changed out everything else.
So I did an egr delete in my 94 4.9 since the delete it has a slight misfire and when I shut if off it will not restart unless I wait for about an hour or I use starting fluid all I did was plug the exaust manifold and cap the end of the egr left everything connected as far as vacume lines and wire harness any suggestions
Usually if something starts acting up after you do something you can usually trace the problem back to something that you did. However, I had a somewhat similar issue in my 92 with a 5.0 and it ended up having a hole in one of the pistons. It could also have something to do with a sensor in the egr system, but I would start checking all the basics (compression, spark, fuel pressure, etc)
Check fuel pump relay
Had the exact same problem on my 92, 1st check if coolant is full, second check spark plugs, one my my spark plugs were cracked on the ceramic and led to poor misfires and poor running. It also wouldn't start when warm had to let sit for 30 min
I’m thinking about doing that are you still running your truck with the egr delete
Yes I am
Mines been deleted for years, no problems since
@@Beandiptheredneck where can I get the plug that he put in place so my check engine light will go off
@@robertbailey2175 no idea I just removed the check engine light 🤣 I think they're available on ebay but don't quote me
What is the website for egr delete
What was it doing before the delete?? My truck shakes alot and have done, plugs, wires, cleaned the egr valve, checked for air leaks. Still nothing.
Try ur fuel filter or check ur fuel pressure my shook and ended up a fuel problem
@@condemnedyouth7732 it has a new pump n filter. I really cant find the damn problem
@@sandking9918 how about the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail ?
Hell even the idle air control on the side of the intake goes bad I've gone through a few of those
Ill check out the IAC, i just been going through videos trying to see if anyone else has had that problem. Thanks brother
What is that part number I need one bad
will this work on a 390 fe
I don’t think so
Where do you get to delete kit?
eBay, but the listings have since been removed and I haven’t been able to find them anywhere else.
Might work for mine, mine fees lazy
Where did you buy the kit?
eBay, but the listings have since been removed and I haven’t been able to find them anywhere else.
Hey man where did you buy the egr delete sensor
Ebay
@@hayseedautos ahhhh man I've looked and looked and I can't find anything, but I Googled some and found one for like 30 bucks hopefully they not bs
Where did you get the egr delete plug? I have been looking for one but cant seem to find it. Thank you
It’s on there bud. Made by VTS
@@dominickjohnston5881 on where?
@@JuanSanchez-ik7wx ebay
What is the purpose of doing this?
More power
It's just a easy way to fix the egr without replacing it or the tube that runs to it. No actual gain from deleting it. The egr opens and let's exhaust into the intake at certain times which warms the fuel for better burn of said fuel which believe it or not actually makes your motor run cooler which makes it last longer and that brings us back to why newer motors with all the frustrating sensors and computers last longer than the carburetor motors did
Keeps dirty exhaust air from going into your engine. It doesn't make your engine run hotter, your cooling system keeps it the temp it needs to be. Taking the egr off let's your engine burn only clean air so more power and a cleaner engine
@@baconneggs2406fuel injection plus roller cams play a big part in extended engine life as well.
I don't no but I cleaned my eger valve and bolted it back but I for got to put the hose back on it before I drive it and I tell you the truth mine is a ford 96 XL and it run so dam good and I thot O my gosh got back home raised the hood and rubber hose was off put it back on and drove and it run same way before I cleaned the EGR valve I just wish I new if it would hurt it in the longi would sure leave it off or hose not plugged run like Ne😮
how’s it running? does it still idle high?
Yes it still idles a little high
You need to do a smog delete on the computer to get the revs down, good luck
@@hayseedautos I was wondering about when you changed the TPS . Did u set the rest position so the TPS output reads between 0.870 - 0.970 dc volts. Basically with throttle plate closed it should read just under 1 volt. Its adjusted with the 2 mounting screws . That's why the holes are elongated. I was just wondering if that's why your idle to high.
@steven commanda thanks for the comment. Yes I did adjust the tps when I replaced it
@@hayseedautos no dont make it idle higher, check for codes you prolly have another sensor out
Most states it's illegal to remove any emissions from your vehicle
“For Off Road Use”
It should have been illegal to sell these trucks with emissions nonsense in the first place
Slavery is illegal too but that doesn't stop all these yuppies from buying lithium EVs that require slave labor in third world countries to mine the components for them.
It is what it is.its federal government playing big brother.dont compliance get fined
Illogical and no one who has a brain cares. What worst is burning oil and or components from not dealing with it. Go smoke some more. Way worst for the engine and the environment not dealing with it. Guessing your from CA or NY