Couldn't find Part 2. I have the same one, just a smaller 29" model. I'm trying to find a relatively easy way to get access to the inside of the glass and the fire logs so I can clean the inside glass and vacuum dust off the logs. Thanks for any info you can offer.
@@frankiefixdiy thanks for the reply. I found the 4 screws behind d the flange that release the entire front glass panel. All cleaned up and vacuumed out. Good as new!
got one right now that I left the fireplace shell in the RV for looks but removed all the components and in the garage. We plan on buying a new one but the boards on these like you say are not very good from China. Was thinking about trying what you do for fun on the old parts to see if I can get them working less the board so glad I found your video. You mentioned about putting in a temperature control too. Basically, a rheostat. Have your tried it yet and if not do you have some tips on how to do it without a board?
Probably throw this one away someday too when I buy a new fireplace but for now trying what you did. I have all the components out and just tested the fan which works just straight to AC power. I want to wire up the heating element too so the fan and heat both come on but there are two black connections? do I jump both with the hot wire? I see the ground is coming off the fan transformer to the heating element, so I believe it's already grounded. Just need power to it but not sure about the two black connectors? I'll be looking this up but if you know please share. Thanks
hmm, it has been a while. I would use a multimeter test for continuity on those black wires, if there is continuity i would not hook to AC power directly to it. I thought I wired the heater in my video, I would have to look back, or it could be the black is wired through a high temp sensor so it cuts power like a switch if temp goes over a set limit (limit switch)
I have one a little smaller I've had for 10 years. Just stopped working. "Flames and heater" but light switches light up when plugged in. I hope it's something simple I can try to fix. Thanks.
Great video. I have a similar situation where the board is shot. This one doesn’t have a manual switch though. It is safe to wire a switch into fire animation then straight into wall outlet?
Sure, thats just a motor and some light bulbs, no different than plugging a lamp in. Just be safe when working with electric obviously. Have a good day!
got an expensive fire and it does nt have the remote so cant see if it works or not ,so i think if i can do what you just did i might be able to get it working
Yes but if you do be careful not to leave it running or disable the heater, the heater will work but poses too much of a risk because essentially you are removing some of the safety features, it was intended only if you just want the fire effects and to make use of it. I use the heater but I don't keep it running constantly because the temp control was removed.
I have a small space heater that has a similar junky circuit board. I don't care about the lights or dancing flame, so if I bypass everything and go straight from power to the heater, will it work? Or is the circuit board needed for controlling the amount of power delivered to the heater? There is a temperature knob but I am fine if it is always at the same level (max power, I'd assume). Thanks for your video!
Does anyone know of a way to just unplug power from the Board to the heating element? We found a twin star 4211033FG7 and don’t need the heat. Is this safe? I heard without power to The transformer it could melt down. Any help?
you should be able to just unplug the connections to the element but without looking at it, its something you can try or follow the wires from the element, wire colors and follow them to the board.
Unfortunately because some components were bypassed you cannot control the temperature, in my case I was just using it for enjoyment and turning it off and on when I needed it.
I have the Duraflame DFS5-550-21 had the same issue. You are right it is hard to see, in fact I had to go by feel. I went to the hardware store to find the file like yours. The unhelpful hardware people did not have a small file. But they did try and sell me a new heater. So, I got some 800 girt sandpaper and folded it into a small thin strip. Then went between the contacts and slid it back and forth for a while. Not sure as to how much of the corrosion it took off, but the sandpaper did take some of it off. And it is working now. Thanks for the video it did help.
Thank you. Very helpful. I have this exact model with board problems. Now I don't have to throw it out. It's a beautiful fireplace.
Yes I think the flame is more realistic than most models. Glad it helped.
Good Stuff!!!
Thanks for watching!
Hey really cool idea, I have several of these and want to try this method, believing control board is bad.
Couldn't find Part 2. I have the same one, just a smaller 29" model. I'm trying to find a relatively easy way to get access to the inside of the glass and the fire logs so I can clean the inside glass and vacuum dust off the logs. Thanks for any info you can offer.
Hi Peter, does you model have round thumb screws on the front to remove the glass?
@@frankiefixdiy thanks for the reply. I found the 4 screws behind d the flange that release the entire front glass panel. All cleaned up and vacuumed out. Good as new!
got one right now that I left the fireplace shell in the RV for looks but removed all the components and in the garage. We plan on buying a new one but the boards on these like you say are not very good from China. Was thinking about trying what you do for fun on the old parts to see if I can get them working less the board so glad I found your video. You mentioned about putting in a temperature control too. Basically, a rheostat. Have your tried it yet and if not do you have some tips on how to do it without a board?
Thanks Tim, no I ended up throwing it away myself to save some space but I did recycle it and enjoyed a few years of it first.
Probably throw this one away someday too when I buy a new fireplace but for now trying what you did. I have all the components out and just tested the fan which works just straight to AC power. I want to wire up the heating element too so the fan and heat both come on but there are two black connections? do I jump both with the hot wire? I see the ground is coming off the fan transformer to the heating element, so I believe it's already grounded. Just need power to it but not sure about the two black connectors? I'll be looking this up but if you know please share. Thanks
hmm, it has been a while. I would use a multimeter test for continuity on those black wires, if there is continuity i would not hook to AC power directly to it.
I thought I wired the heater in my video, I would have to look back, or it could be the black is wired through a high temp sensor so it cuts power like a switch if temp goes over a set limit (limit switch)
I have one a little smaller I've had for 10 years. Just stopped working. "Flames and heater" but light switches light up when plugged in. I hope it's something simple I can try to fix. Thanks.
Please help how do I find a plastic piece to replace mine on a free fireplace I got. It's the piece that is the background right behind the logs
You would have to get the model number and google it, then maybe a parts list will show up for it so you can identify the part that is broken.
Great video. I have a similar situation where the board is shot. This one doesn’t have a manual switch though. It is safe to wire a switch into fire animation then straight into wall outlet?
Sure, thats just a motor and some light bulbs, no different than plugging a lamp in. Just be safe when working with electric obviously. Have a good day!
got an expensive fire and it does nt have the remote so cant see if it works or not ,so i think if i can do what you just did i might be able to get it working
Yes but if you do be careful not to leave it running or disable the heater, the heater will work but poses too much of a risk because essentially you are removing some of the safety features, it was intended only if you just want the fire effects and to make use of it. I use the heater but I don't keep it running constantly because the temp control was removed.
@@frankiefixdiy binned it
I have a small space heater that has a similar junky circuit board. I don't care about the lights or dancing flame, so if I bypass everything and go straight from power to the heater, will it work? Or is the circuit board needed for controlling the amount of power delivered to the heater? There is a temperature knob but I am fine if it is always at the same level (max power, I'd assume). Thanks for your video!
Does anyone know of a way to just unplug power from the Board to the heating element? We found a twin star 4211033FG7 and don’t need the heat. Is this safe? I heard without power to The transformer it could melt down. Any help?
you should be able to just unplug the connections to the element but without looking at it, its something you can try or follow the wires from the element, wire colors and follow them to the board.
I have a twin-star 3211U300GRA that has no power going into it and really want to get it working. I'm in the uk and got it through Costco uk
Hi Michelle, I am not familiar with that but tell me what it is.
How you control the temperature
Unfortunately because some components were bypassed you cannot control the temperature, in my case I was just using it for enjoyment and turning it off and on when I needed it.
I have the Duraflame DFS5-550-21 had the same issue. You are right it is hard to see, in fact I had to go by feel. I went to the hardware store to find the file like yours. The unhelpful hardware people did not have a small file. But they did try and sell me a new heater. So, I got some 800 girt sandpaper and folded it into a small thin strip. Then went between the contacts and slid it back and forth for a while. Not sure as to how much of the corrosion it took off, but the sandpaper did take some of it off. And it is working now. Thanks for the video it did help.
Good work William, glad it helped!