For such purposes, it is better to use stucco. After processing with primers and enamels, you will get not the worst parameters, but processing (drilling and making cuts) will be easier. The second business advice I would call a vibration isolating gasket under the speaker mounting flange, this would reduce the overtones of jolts and knocks (reactive excitation). Finally, since your enclosure operates in an unexcited environment, it would make sense to add an acoustic resistance panel in the form of cuts with an insert of cotton cambric into the structure. Such a device is not only beautiful, but also increases the losses of the inertial impulse accumulated by the diaphragm and the coil. These modifications would significantly increase the spatial resolution and musicality of the sound of the system as a whole. Correctly organized resistance to radiation and channeling the dissipation of vibrational energies is very effective in sound-reproducing acoustic processes, as well as in microphones. When we consider spatial stereophonic recording, the processes of sound fading provide us with important external spatial information. Here, the decay time constant of any oscillations on the one hand becomes critical, and the insensitivity of the design itself, for exciting oscillations from the side of the moment of acceleration of the coil and diaphragm by the casing of the device. I am not touching upon the issue of air resonance inside the body, but here the sound-absorbing fibral roller, which will be suspended along the axis of the cylindrical body at the focus of the surfaces, will save. Such a satellite will give a lot of spatial and musical information, which is masked by other design methods.
I've used similar materials, concrete and mastic before and an old guy showed me to use the back of my dremel at different speeds touching the sides of the container to vibrate any potential air bubbles and settle the material. It worked pretty well compared to me tapping.
I used to work in a factory where we made enormous sewer junctions out of concrete, poured into enormous forms. We strapped huge vibrators (yes, I know, sounds much more exciting than it was) to the forms to shake the bubbles out of the concrete. The vibrations change the viscosity of the cement so the bubbles can rise to the surface. For a small project like this, any massager should do the trick.
I see so many of these speaker builds, and they very rarely demo them!....Pointless if they sound crap. Thanks for the time to do the video nonetheless.
Why is the baffling needed when cast concrete is acoustically inert. Surely internal reflection would be absent in an infinite baffle design like this? Also will these drive units do a good job of both the hi end and mid range frequencies? Definitely looking at building something like this and bi wiring it with a sub woofer if i can get the drive units at the right price.
@@SoundBlab It sounds right for my purposes then as it does away with the 3 way crossover solution and makes the wiring simpler. Did you try it with and without the acoustic wadding as i would have thought allowing air around the drive units would have improved their peformance and cooling somewhat if internal reflection was not a problem? Obviously these problems become more acute on heavy bass bin drive units as they move much more air.
How do they sound in those enclosers??? The enclosure can make or break a subs sound.. they look amazing kinda like mini Orion hcca subs I wouldn't mind getting some and customizing them to look identical to a pair of Orion hcca subs just a mini version of em
Try get an inside mould of 1 liter. The outer is less critical. I think mine was 1.5 liters. Unfortunately I dont have the precise measurements anymore or the moulds.
Thanks. I think my mix was one part water, one part concrete and one part sand. It is mix well and then after it is poured, I make sure to tap the mould for a minute or two to get rid of any bubbles.
Привет, динамики для открытой аккустической системы надо бы ставить в корпус с фазоинвертером, тем не менее, выглядит симпатично. Попробуй сделать корпус, со сферической полостью под динамик.
hey, I'm about to build a Bluetooth speaker, but i am really Not Sure what speakers to use. The Design of the speaker is going to be similar to something Like a JBL Xtreme and Made of a PVC Tube and Wood With something between 10 and 20 cm of diameter. I also wann use ether 1 or 2 Sure audio amplifiers of the jab Series and the Accessoires from Sure Like the Battery holder. The Setup i'm thinking of is ether 4x a 3" or 3,5" speakers Like the Dayton nd91 i think they are called and passiv radiators in the Sides of the Tube. The Other Option would be to use only 2 of the Dayton nd91's and Like 2 4" woofers Like the Dayton nd105 instead of the passive radiators. What Option do you think is going to Work better? Or do you have a better solution? My Goal is to make a speakers that can Beat Most of those buyable speakers Like JBL or bose. I Hope you can Help me greetings from Germany Philip by the way i´m very keen on good quallity so i don´t mind having 2-3 db more or less i´d much rather have a great sounding speaker
Great work. I stumbled upon this video by accident and enjoyed watching your skills. I presume you are using Flashcrete ?. I have built a few speaker plinths and even a turntable, and have had 100% success from Flashcrete which you can get from BW.
Came out well. I had quite a few failures, but using far less cement. A coat of clear sealer then few coats of clear laquer looks great if you want a gloss finish. Cement is also great to emboss your logo in ..hint hint :).
They look cool. I'd like to make a coupe points on speaker building theory though. It might be worth adding baffle step correction, its really simple and easy. The loss of volume below the step frequency is probably quite bad as the baffle edge is equidistant at all points from the speaker. This is a useful calculator and also has some links to more you can read up on: diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Baffle-Step-Correction-Circuit-Calculator/ Also, the end of a cylinder is the worst place to put a speaker, as show in this link: p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/forum/olson-baffleshape-fr.gif
Thanks man. Yes I agree. The intention is to match this up with a subwoofer (future build), but considering that the baffle step is taking place at between 800 and 900Hz somewhere (theoretical) it could be useful to include a compensation circuit. It will be interesting to see how the baffle shape affects the response, but to be honest I was really after the novelty of the look and the materials used. A response measurement will reveal, and I might do this together with a sound test soon.
remijio303 I may just not understand this, but wouldn't it be more beneficial to port the enclosure and add some sound deadening to the back of the enclosure? I'm also having some confusion when reading the page on the diffraction patterns of sound interacting with objects. Is it talking about internal diffraction within the shape or the diffraction of sound upon encountering the exterior surface?
Hi this is really old threat but seems everybody know about this stuff. I just want to know is a cylinder casing with speaker in the middle facing into the cylinder will be a good subwoofer casing?
If you are using a very hard wood perhaps, and depends on the application of the joint and if it is under stress. In this case it works fine with the cherry wood.
Interesting, I thought concrete was never used in speakers due to its ultra reflectivity to sound Waves? Ever tried shouting in to a large concrete pipe?
Tone P actually concrete would work great simply because of the fact that it is a more solid material there by you would not lose any acoustical value to vibration like you would with softwood such as Pine this is precisely the reason that most subwoofers boxes are sealed on the inside if made from MDF and a lot of people are now Rhino coating the outside because it makes the material more rigid and less prone to flexing the flex causes acoustical loss. The best subwoofer box in the world would be one made from steel or concrete sound waves tend to resonate better in a solid structure than a structure that has flex and causes that acoustical loss. resonance is what you are looking for with your speaker now mind you this would involve a lot of math to make sure that the resonant frequency of the enclosure you're building would match the resonant frequency of the speaker so using a couple of plastic cups like this guy probably screwed that part up but the material he chose was great
Tone P Yeah some speaker manufacturers use alluminium which is equally very reflective. There's a right way of doing it and a wrong way of doing it. The shape in the position of ports/resonators inside the cabinet decide how well it responds in the end
I've build speakers with concrete, plaster and differend woods but concrete ist clear the best material. But i also tried such round enclosure (just like a planting-pot) and that is not a good shape for a speaker. You got a rectangular angle on the edge, and the speaker is exacly centered - giving the same length on every side to the edge. And there is no correction - only just a wire to connect it. You will get some "hills" in the frequency-response with maybe 6..10dB and that will sound somewhat hard. I'm talking about the "baffle-step". What you can do is make the edge round or phased with 45° and add some correction-crossover. you may take a look at www.linkwitzlab.com/diffraction.htm and and for calculation diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Baffle-Step-Correction-Circuit-Calculator/
concrete seems like overkill for little drivers like these because they aren't going to rattle and resonate much anyway whereas a concrete subwoofer seems like a solid idea
I doubt that. It may have a small hairline fracture or a chip knocked off but I doubt it would break. I'm fairly sure we wouldn't build multiple ton buildings out of a material that is so fragile.
For such purposes, it is better to use stucco. After processing with primers and enamels, you will get not the worst parameters, but processing (drilling and making cuts) will be easier.
The second business advice I would call a vibration isolating gasket under the speaker mounting flange, this would reduce the overtones of jolts and knocks (reactive excitation). Finally, since your enclosure operates in an unexcited environment, it would make sense to add an acoustic resistance panel in the form of cuts with an insert of cotton cambric into the structure. Such a device is not only beautiful, but also increases the losses of the inertial impulse accumulated by the diaphragm and the coil.
These modifications would significantly increase the spatial resolution and musicality of the sound of the system as a whole.
Correctly organized resistance to radiation and channeling the dissipation of vibrational energies is very effective in sound-reproducing acoustic processes, as well as in microphones.
When we consider spatial stereophonic recording, the processes of sound fading provide us with important external spatial information. Here, the decay time constant of any oscillations on the one hand becomes critical, and the insensitivity of the design itself, for exciting oscillations from the side of the moment of acceleration of the coil and diaphragm by the casing of the device. I am not touching upon the issue of air resonance inside the body, but here the sound-absorbing fibral roller, which will be suspended along the axis of the cylindrical body at the focus of the surfaces, will save.
Such a satellite will give a lot of spatial and musical information, which is masked by other design methods.
Cement/concret is a great material. Actually very light for their strengths. I like paper mache also. Amazing materials.
Awesome work! I can't imagine how is the sound
Sound test coming soon
Can someone tell me what is the cement mixture that is use for the speaker?
I've used similar materials, concrete and mastic before and an old guy showed me to use the back of my dremel at different speeds touching the sides of the container to vibrate any potential air bubbles and settle the material. It worked pretty well compared to me tapping.
Cool idea
I used to work in a factory where we made enormous sewer junctions out of concrete, poured into enormous forms. We strapped huge vibrators (yes, I know, sounds much more exciting than it was) to the forms to shake the bubbles out of the concrete. The vibrations change the viscosity of the cement so the bubbles can rise to the surface.
For a small project like this, any massager should do the trick.
I see so many of these speaker builds, and they very rarely demo them!....Pointless if they sound crap. Thanks for the time to do the video nonetheless.
I usually do a sound test in a separate video. Coming soon.
You'd be listening to a recording of the speaker played through your own speaker anyway. It would not sound as it does in real life.
Great job as per usual
Thanks
I wish I had the place and tools to make interesting things... love your video's.
Some dye in the cement might be nice but I love the use of alternate materials.
Thanks
They look cool... But how do they sound?
This would only play ROCK music !!
Cool Vostok and cool project.
Thanks
You make it look easy, very clever thought went into these speakers
Thanks!
beautiful speakers and good idea
Thanks
Neat a sound test in the end will help :)
long ago I thought of making a pair of speaker boxes with concrete in between 2 layers of plywood. Nice workmanship too
Why is the baffling needed when cast concrete is acoustically inert. Surely internal reflection would be absent in an infinite baffle design like this? Also will these drive units do a good job of both the hi end and mid range frequencies? Definitely looking at building something like this and bi wiring it with a sub woofer if i can get the drive units at the right price.
I don't understand your questions?! These do well in mids and highs, but a sub will be necessary for the lows.
@@SoundBlab It sounds right for my purposes then as it does away with the 3 way crossover solution and makes the wiring simpler. Did you try it with and without the acoustic wadding as i would have thought allowing air around the drive units would have improved their peformance and cooling somewhat if internal reflection was not a problem? Obviously these problems become more acute on heavy bass bin drive units as they move much more air.
How do they sound in those enclosers??? The enclosure can make or break a subs sound.. they look amazing kinda like mini Orion hcca subs I wouldn't mind getting some and customizing them to look identical to a pair of Orion hcca subs just a mini version of em
i have a question sir.
what about the air pressure of the speaker? it has no any out of that pressure.
What sizes are the two molds used. Not stated in your material list. Please advise
Try get an inside mould of 1 liter. The outer is less critical. I think mine was 1.5 liters. Unfortunately I dont have the precise measurements anymore or the moulds.
What type of cement / concrete did you use please?
I used 1:1 ratio of cement and white river sand or building sand. Mix with a little bit of water until you get the right pasty consistency.
Thanks
Do you know what brands of cement and white sand you used? I think that it turned out awesome
Nice Vostok!!!
Thanks
As a suggestion, before your next concrete project, you should build a concrete tamper platform to remove air bubbles with a nice sub woofer. :-)
awesome! what is the secret fot that super smooth concrete??? mixture??
Thanks. I think my mix was one part water, one part concrete and one part sand. It is mix well and then after it is poured, I make sure to tap the mould for a minute or two to get rid of any bubbles.
beautiful work
Thanks
YES!!!
Very nice! What's the wall thickness of the concrete? Or what's the diameters of those plastic beakers?
The beakers are 1.5 and 1 liters. The larger one has a diameter of about 130mm and the smaller about 100mm.
No sound demo?
Hey, is that a Vostoc Amphibia watch? Even a monestary maybe?
It is. 710.
Cool, got one myself with aftermarket leather strap and bezel (black and gold). What dial is it?
Did you use any release compound to help the concrete pop out of the outer mould?
Not for this one. It was fairly easy to get it out of the plastic container.
Deep cancellation notch at 2.8kHz.
Very cool project bro! The finish on the mortar came out great, very smooth
Thanks
is that vostok scuba dude ? whoaaa, awesome :D
cool video too, might will try to make one
Thanks! Yes, its a scuba dude
Do you think those screws fit those speakers? I think ruined it.
Screws can be replaced. Its what I had on hand.
no sound test?
Its the next video after this one on the channel
@@SoundBlab howabout foamcrete or aircrete? do you think its ggod for a speaker? thanks
Very nice
Thanks
Brilliant
Thanks
What adhesive did you use to stick the wood to the concrete?
It is a construction adhesive.
Which material can bond concrete to wood or conrete to conrete? Do you use any type of caulk?
I just used 2 part epoxy glue for these and it's works great.
I didnt find the concrete sub
That is one of those planned projects that has not yet seen the light of day, but I am still very keen to do it. Not sure when that'll be though...
Who makes the speaker driver
Amazing build.
Thank you
why did you not make speaker screw holes symmetrical?
You spotted my mistake!
What do you mean by make the speaker screw holes symmetrical and why is that needed?
Because it's ugly and sloppy to have two speakers with different mounting holes.
great build as always.
Thanks
Привет, динамики для открытой аккустической системы надо бы ставить в корпус с фазоинвертером, тем не менее, выглядит симпатично. Попробуй сделать корпус, со сферической полостью под динамик.
hey, I'm about to build a Bluetooth speaker, but i am really Not Sure what speakers to use. The Design of the speaker is going to be similar to something Like a JBL Xtreme and Made of a PVC Tube and Wood With something between 10 and 20 cm of diameter. I also wann use ether 1 or 2 Sure audio amplifiers of the jab Series and the Accessoires from Sure Like the Battery holder. The Setup i'm thinking of is ether 4x a 3" or 3,5" speakers Like the Dayton nd91 i think they are called and passiv radiators in the Sides of the Tube. The Other Option would be to use only 2 of the Dayton nd91's and Like 2 4" woofers Like the Dayton nd105 instead of the passive radiators. What Option do you think is going to Work better? Or do you have a better solution? My Goal is to make a speakers that can Beat Most of those buyable speakers Like JBL or bose. I Hope you can Help me greetings from Germany
Philip
by the way i´m very keen on good quallity so i don´t mind having 2-3 db more or less i´d much rather have a great sounding speaker
BEAUTIFUL!
Thanks
Aw, I wanted to hear them!
Check out the next video on the channel.
Content Updating they sound just like whatever device you're listening on! 😂
My humble apologies. I gave thumbs up. Great job.!!
Damn, it feels good to be a gangster. Nice work bud.
Thanks!
Very cool mate. What was your process or thoughts in choosing the speaker? Where did you purchase from?
Mark Anderson Ebay
Mark Anderson look at the description
Cool Speakers! They look very similar to the coffe cup speakers from Kirby Meets Audio
Thanks
Nice Vostok
tx
how does it sound??
Roderick O. Pischl good
Great work. I stumbled upon this video by accident and enjoyed watching your skills. I presume you are using Flashcrete ?. I have built a few speaker plinths and even a turntable, and have had 100% success from Flashcrete which you can get from BW.
Thanks! I did not use a premix. I used a 1:1 ratio of plain cement and white sand mixed with a bit of water until I felt I had the right consistency.
Came out well. I had quite a few failures, but using far less cement. A coat of clear sealer then few coats of clear laquer looks great if you want a gloss finish. Cement is also great to emboss your logo in ..hint hint :).
great work . could you do some drywall small speakers too?
hi, try with a bigger box (2L - 4L) , and the focal car's coexial drivers. I love sealed cabinet designs! :) nice job
Might try adding carbon fibers to the Sub cement mix
Could be interesting. I was thinking of using glass fibers. It's more easily available here.
Not a bad idea, the concrete may crack over time. Its finicky like that.
Hey man, i love your video.....and i love your watch 😁 ....is that Amphibia 710?
Thanks man. Yes, with a modded bezel.
SoundBlab niceee...i have the same watch 😁
How do they sound?
th-cam.com/video/BuQK82Fwb1U/w-d-xo.html
They look cool. I'd like to make a coupe points on speaker building theory though.
It might be worth adding baffle step correction, its really simple and easy. The loss of volume below the step frequency is probably quite bad as the baffle edge is equidistant at all points from the speaker. This is a useful calculator and also has some links to more you can read up on:
diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Baffle-Step-Correction-Circuit-Calculator/
Also, the end of a cylinder is the worst place to put a speaker, as show in this link:
p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/forum/olson-baffleshape-fr.gif
Thanks man. Yes I agree. The intention is to match this up with a subwoofer (future build), but considering that the baffle step is taking place at between 800 and 900Hz somewhere (theoretical) it could be useful to include a compensation circuit. It will be interesting to see how the baffle shape affects the response, but to be honest I was really after the novelty of the look and the materials used. A response measurement will reveal, and I might do this together with a sound test soon.
remijio303 I may just not understand this, but wouldn't it be more beneficial to port the enclosure and add some sound deadening to the back of the enclosure? I'm also having some confusion when reading the page on the diffraction patterns of sound interacting with objects. Is it talking about internal diffraction within the shape or the diffraction of sound upon encountering the exterior surface?
Robert Coffey I know this is a little old and you probably have found the answer, but it's the outside of the enclosure they're talking about.
Hi this is really old threat but seems everybody know about this stuff. I just want to know is a cylinder casing with speaker in the middle facing into the cylinder will be a good subwoofer casing?
soooo cool. i love this project!
Cool!
What is the watch you are wearing?
It is a Vostok that has been slightly modded with a custom strap and bezel.
SoundBlab thank you I'll have to check them out.
Great vid man!
Thanks
No sound test :( ?!?!
gheorghe daniel th-cam.com/video/BuQK82Fwb1U/w-d-xo.html
very cool
Thanks
I've heard using wood glue on end grain is useless, is this true ? im South African as well btw the way :)
If you are using a very hard wood perhaps, and depends on the application of the joint and if it is under stress. In this case it works fine with the cherry wood.
If you're going to setup the miter saw anyway, might as well do the joints with it too.
This reminds me of the Kirby meets audio build
Interesting, I thought concrete was never used in speakers due to its ultra reflectivity to sound Waves? Ever tried shouting in to a large concrete pipe?
Tone P It would work fantastically as long as it was lined with a softer material like cork
Tone P actually concrete would work great simply because of the fact that it is a more solid material there by you would not lose any acoustical value to vibration like you would with softwood such as Pine this is precisely the reason that most subwoofers boxes are sealed on the inside if made from MDF and a lot of people are now Rhino coating the outside because it makes the material more rigid and less prone to flexing the flex causes acoustical loss. The best subwoofer box in the world would be one made from steel or concrete sound waves tend to resonate better in a solid structure than a structure that has flex and causes that acoustical loss. resonance is what you are looking for with your speaker now mind you this would involve a lot of math to make sure that the resonant frequency of the enclosure you're building would match the resonant frequency of the speaker so using a couple of plastic cups like this guy probably screwed that part up but the material he chose was great
Tone P Yeah some speaker manufacturers use alluminium which is equally very reflective. There's a right way of doing it and a wrong way of doing it. The shape in the position of ports/resonators inside the cabinet decide how well it responds in the end
admin asked me where to buy this speaker. I want to buy link..
Really good as always ;)
Thanks man!
What about sound quality test before "adios"
Check the next video on the channel after this one
Only if I had all these tools...
Please Do The Sound Test
Its the very next video on my channel...
Damn it feels good to be a gangsta 🤘🏻
i like what you got
Thanks man!
Now do terracotta plant pot enclosures
really, no test?
Coming soon.
Nice!
Thanks
Love this
What is that stuff? Its not concrete. Why no recipe?
+Mongrel Shark One part cement with one part sand. Add water until pasty.
I've build speakers with concrete, plaster and differend woods but concrete ist clear the best material. But i also tried such round enclosure (just like a planting-pot) and that is not a good shape for a speaker. You got a rectangular angle on the edge, and the speaker is exacly centered - giving the same length on every side to the edge. And there is no correction - only just a wire to connect it. You will get some "hills" in the frequency-response with maybe 6..10dB and that will sound somewhat hard. I'm talking about the "baffle-step".
What you can do is make the edge round or phased with 45° and add some correction-crossover. you may take a look at www.linkwitzlab.com/diffraction.htm and and for calculation diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Baffle-Step-Correction-Circuit-Calculator/
Sound, we need the speakers sound?!
+Олег Бычков Its the next video on my channel!
Im assuming they don’t sound good ...
but they do look nice
Thanks. These drivers sound pretty good, just not much low end. Will need to use it with a sub.
Love
Tx
dostum beton koninin içine cam elyafı ile kaplasaydın betonun sertliğini kırabılırdın
how to sound effects
Um....after watching all that ....and no sound test..??
Watch the next video...
Or use flower pots.
Play them, so we can hear how they're working
damn it feels good to be a gangster? lol
I was just getting ready to comment the same thing! I wanted to see if someone beat me to it... and you definitely did, sir!
This comment restores my faith in humanity.
yeah it was but I'm conflicted by the MIDI elevator music version? Once a gangsta always a gangsta I'll say
thought I recognized that music... kept thinking of Peter Gibbons
Round front panel is the worst shape you could ever choose.
maantap
concrete seems like overkill for little drivers like these because they aren't going to rattle and resonate much anyway whereas a concrete subwoofer seems like a solid idea
Overkill is better than underkill, plus it just cool.
@@Blacksunshine636 Not if the speaker weighs 60 lbs when using a material that would sound just as good and weigh 20 lbs
@@carewser that's not gonna weigh 60lbs dude.
@@Blacksunshine636obviously not but I was trying to make the point that overkill can be bad too if the speakers are impractically heavy
👏👍
nice job dude. Get a corded drill. More JUICE MORE POWER :) But amazing work man
Thanks!
Concrete case for speakers,make sure u dont drop them it will be broken in an instant😁😊☺
I doubt that. It may have a small hairline fracture or a chip knocked off but I doubt it would break. I'm fairly sure we wouldn't build multiple ton buildings out of a material that is so fragile.
@@sethh8892 Concrete has good compressive strength but poor tensile strength.
This is why we add reinforcement bars
Cool video, need flux on those solder joints
Thanks. I agree! Had none on hand :(
Are you south african??
Coz Ponal??? Ponal is available is US aswell...
I am
SoundBlab epic could tell from the accent
Hi play at one music track through these speakers...