Don;t forget if you want to sell your sports photos please take a look at GeoSnapShot.com. We've just introduced Face recognition, Bib Recognition and Event time to filter photos. In addition we offer free public liability Insurance for all our photographers (excluding North America at this time)
I'm not a photographer but have been taking photos using a camera that's come into my possession. This tutorial is making a lot of sense for a total beginner! Thank you.
That's great! You make it so simple. I have worked most of this out after years of trial and (more often) error, always using shutter priority for sports. Now I will try full manual. A major thing, for me, was getting the auto-focus setting right, and you have confirmed what I thought. Blurred player, with pin-sharp advertising boards behind him, are a thing of the past. I hope.
Lol, youtube recommends really interesting stuff lately ;) I like your approach to sport photography (I'm a self-taught photographer for nearly 20 years now), although if it's still relevant for you after 4 years, the first thing I learnt with my 350D (the PowerShot G6 wasn't really strong in it and I was 12 at the time anyway...) is that whatever you shoot at, you always - can't emphasize enough - ALWAYS use RAW. There are over 128GB CF and SD cards (I have a 7D Mk I for almost 6 years or so, it eats only CF), but even with my 32GB CF card I have over a 1000 pic space (1012 to be precise), and I never ran out of space. Swapping a memory card takes literally 5-10 seconds, you won't miss anything if you prepared enough, but the benefits of RAW can't be appreciated enough. Related to that is one of the most important lesson I learnt, and I did it on the hard way - mainly because I've had "principles" - is that there is no perfect picture. No matter what you do, how long and how hard you try, you will use some kind of editor (I still prefer PS over GIMP), and that's where JPEG will stab you in the back. If it's only a quick color correction, or some contrast and lightning adjustments, if you don't have every single color in every possible shades in your picture already, you'll have a really hard time to create anything acceptable. It's not impossible, it's just a matter of how many scrap pictures you put on your shutter count, and as you might know as a sport photographer yourself, shutter count isn't last long enough to be able to afford thousands of scrap pictures. But apart of that, I totally agree with anything else you said in the video, it sounds absolutely fine for the purpose.
I'm an amateur photographer at best, and recently, I attended a track meet for one of the grandkids and wanted to make some lasting memories. Your settings came in handy. Thanks a lot!
Hi! Great glad you found them useful. If you want to distribute those photos use our photo sales platform that has been specifically designed for sports. Check it out at www.GeoSnapShot.com
This was very useful. I'm the proud owner of a "new" used 1DX Mark III, to go along with my 7D, and I'm looking forward to doing some sports photography with it. Thanks for posting these settings!
Thank you for the video! I just purchased a Canon 80D which is very similar to your camera! So getting everything set up for an upcoming photo shoot was breezy! Thank you again!
Thanks for the advice, I thought there was something wrong with my 70-200 it looks like my settings were wrong though. I agree with everyone about shooting JPEG it's a no.
Great video thanks very much. I am a quadriplegic and just upgraded my Canon T 70 many years ago to a 500 D and now to a 750 D because I take photos using my old Canon T 70 T3 adapter and converted it to use on the 500 D and 750 D and uses a shutter release connected to a lens cleaning kit blower brush bulb and I bite on it to take photos it works fantastic. Also unfortunately I have to use an all in one 16-300 mm lens which I didn't know existed until recently instead of using the lens kit I had previously and was annoyed having to change lenses and take one or the other before leaving home. Would love to upgrade to a higher model can't waste time at the moment looking for somebody to adapt to new style of camera remote connection. Anyway will try your settings. Unfortunately tried sports mode motor racing event in Sydney and didn't come out as was expected and looking at tutorials found out is not the way to go. Some others use the AV mode instead of TV so was very interested to see your settings. Thanks a lot and will try them out regards Mark Sydney Australia.
No problem, thank you! This video has given me renewed confidence, so much so that I used your advice when photographing my company's entry in a soapbox derby recently and they've used them on their website! Thank you and keep up the good work!
Awesome! Glad to help. If you're taking sports photos and want to share or sell them be sure to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com. We've got world-leading face recognition technology so people at your sports events can find themselves quickly and easily.
Your video was very helpful. I have not used my Canon 70D for a few years, so I needed a refresher. This camera has so many possible settings. Your suggestions will improve my shots of tomorrow's Dragon boat races. Thanks.
Finally a sports photographer who recommends you shoot in JPEG !! It's ridiculous to recommend that you shoot in RAW due to the amount of post processing that is required. Shoot 3000 pictures in RAW and you will be bogged down forever processing them. Let's face it most of never have our photos published and they only appear on social media so there is no need for using RAW.Also agree to shoot to set your aperture and shutter speed then use Auto ISO. This way you can ensure you have the correct shutter speed to freeze action and the amount of background blur you desire.Using aperture priority results in too many photos having motion blur unless you are always adjusting for changing lighting conditions.
Ha, ha! Thanks Lauren, that's such a lovely feedback. We have plenty more to give. Join www.GeoSnaphShot.com and we'll show you how to make money from your hobby as well :)
Most sports photographers shoot jpeg. The reasons for this can be down to the buffer and image storage, to that of sending images from the camera to your mobile phone or laptop or computer, most press sports photographers require the images to get out there into the wider world community so speed is more important than having a raw file that takes time plus internal camera power. There are however times when shooting raw is advantageous but that comes down to the type of event, conditions and light, the experience of the user and is it relevant. Overall, raw is not the be all and end all. The video herein is correct, again the saliant point was made at the beginning which most folk failed to listen to.
Wrong, that is depend on the media company you work with, I'm shoot with RAW and Jpeg. With Raw files we have proof of evidence our pics are genuine and not altered with editing software. In Journalistic is very taboo to altered the pics.
even crop if that is cause different story of the photo is forbidden. white balance, exposure, saturation is allowed. Altered not allowed eg. take off the hearing aid, take away/put on another object to the photo.
THANK YOU! I got some great shots at our school basketball game! I used shutter priority and I was really impressed. I shot with a Canon 6Dii and 85mm 1.2
Excellent Bobby! That's great news. We've also built GeoSnapShot to help sports photographers share and sell their photos. It's free to use!! Check it out here: geosnapshot.com/
Brilliant video easy to follow and understand. I have just upgraded my canon 60d to a 7dmkii .I shoot motorsport and have set my camera defaults to which you suggest to get a new base line . Thanks for posting this video very helpful
Most camera shoot far more jpeg before filling the buffer than RAW, and they clear the buffer faster. Most Pro sports photographers shoot jpeg for this and other reasons.
Most pro sports photographers are more concerned with he time they have to get to publisher, and the quality of image needed for that , and jpg is better for that. I used to shoot a lot of race track stuff before I retired, and rarely filled the buffer when panning at 8fps, even shooting raw most of the time.
Most pro sports photographers are only using the photos for low resolution uses they are not worried about losing pixels . I think the guy in the video is talking to moms and dads taking photos of there kids ,so raw would be the way to go to be able to edit the photo as much as possible to get a good final photo .
Mate I am in LOVE with this video. Your explanations are excellent particularly on auto focus points. I shoot a lot of Australian Rules Football, I have a Grandson who plays, and I think you have solved my "a little bit soft" problem by choosing the point just above centre so that, hopefully. the face is where the camera will focus because the action changes in direction and distance so quickly that a lot of the time it just misses sharp focus because I am aiming at the centre of the seen mass, Army talk lol. The only thing I disagree with is your preference for shooting in JPG other than RAW. Memory is cheaper these days although I must admit time is a factor to load if your keeping the finger on the trigger. But I don't seem to have a problem with that probably because I learnt on film back in the day. Much appreciated thank you !!!!
Great Peter. We run the GeoSnapShot platform so all those photos of Aussie Rules can be shared/sold via GeoSnapShot. There is no subscription free so it's free to use. I imagine you have an archive of photos from games. Now that everyone has the time it's worth uploading all those photos from past games and sharing with the club/players.
Decent video as a starting point, but you missed covering autofocus cases, and use of RAW or JPEG is not predicated on the size of the files (use bigger cards) but the need to pull the detail from highlights and shadows for certain applications (e.g. SI uses RAW, newspapers use JPEG).
Good points Keith. It's hard to cover everything in one video that people will watch. So Autofocus may well be another video. In terms of RAW, yes I agree, as many posts have said it not about size of files (or size of cards available). Thanks for your comments.
Awesome, Ted. Don't forget you can use GeoSnapShot.com to share or sell photos easily and quickly from your soccer game. Players can use face recognition to find their photos quickly and easily.
Thank you for the very best of all regarding sports and the camera focus and active parts you make it 110% easy to understand even for an old man like myself? I CALL IT (SIMPLE) KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID! IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT!
I have a Canon 5D Mk IV with a Canon 70-200 mm F 2.8. I shoot high school American football that starts from dusk to the evening hours under the lights. My settings are: ISO : 100 - 16000 Mode Dial : M Aperture : F 2.8 fixed Shutter Speed : 1/1000 fixed Picture Style : Fine Detail Drive Mode : High Speed Continuous AF Operation : AI Servo The only adjustment I make is the ISO when I shoot when afternoon sun is still up onto the evening when stadium lights are being used.. Works fine for me.
very good video with clear considerations about the camera setting. It could be interesting to define the camera settings for the shoot in the environments with artificial lights, e.g. pools with waterpolo matches.
640 shutter minimum if possible... An f2.8 lens... Wait for action to be in the lighter areas of the pitch if its particularly bad... need a decent camera that copes with high iso's
Great video! I try not to use Auto ISO unless you are outdoors and it is a day game with clouds that are changing too often to keep up with setting your ISO manually. You risk really grainy shots using Auto ISO at night with a 1250 shutter speed and your aperture at > F4..
Hi Bob, I haven't done a video on indoor sports setting yet.... perhaps I'll do one of those soon. However you may find this helpful th-cam.com/video/xW9JQbJ8uLs/w-d-xo.html
Awesome! Don;t forget to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com as a place to upload and sell your photos. We've just launched face recognition making it even easier for people to find (and buy) photos of themselves!
I come to you from the future where cards can now hold thousands and thousands of photos and theres no need to shoot jpg only unless youre a professional that needs to send them off in real time!
changing the image format from raw to jpeg is useful in case your camera doesn't have a big buffer, in my case a canon 600d can do a maximum of 6 raw shots before slowing down and waiting for the card to write. But when i switched to jpeg i counted 13 shots and i think it could go on and on.
Hi Very helpful vid. Just setting mine up and I cant seem to get the AF point selection screen on the rear display,only through the view finder. Is there a setting I'm missing?
Hi, Thanks for your question. You can access the the AF point selection through the camera menu system. It's not available from the "Q" menu (on a Canon) on the back screen so simply scroll through the menus until you get to "AF Point Selection" and you should be good.
Hi, no, you should stick with Auto Focus nearly 100% of the time. The AF system is very advanced and should get you the best results nearly all of the time. See our other blog for camera tips and selling photos at geosnapshot.com/blog/
Never mind. Your video is clear in all aspects. It was just the position of taking Landscape, Portrait, etc. photos. The position of your camera in this video takes photos in black and white.
how flattering! I did try selling my photos. It failed on me. Parents have other expenses, photos were excluded. Now, since I am an amateur, and photography is a hobby for me, I give them away. Thank you for the offer! You are a magnificent Tutor!
Hi i set up my canon 7d for surf photography with expand af and ai servo,I was taking some practice shots of a windmill near my house but when i hold down the shutter half way it does not beep or the focus points do not light up.Im left wondering am i doing something wrong or is that just the way al servo works.When i change to ai focus mode i hear beeps when i hold down the shutter half way and the focus points light up.Is ai servo on my camera working properly.It actualy does say in the manual that the camera will not beep in ai servo mode.I find this very strange and i dont like it.Ihave a ef 70-300ml lens on my 7d.What do you think is it working properly and i will just have to get used to it or is thr something wrong?
Hello GeoSnapShot, Thank you for your very informative video. Good tips for a lot of people wishing to improve their photography. I also have a question. While showing on how to select and move the selected areas around the 61 or so focused points... How do you get to see it on back screen? I have a 5D III and I don't know how to see the same. Thank you in advance.
Hi, Very good question! You need to press the "info" button repeatedly on the back of your camera until you get something that looks like the "Q" menu screen (but is not the "Q" menu screen). When you get to that screen using the "info" button press the right hand top button at the back of the camera. It is to the right hand side of the button marked "*". Does that work for you?
Hello Not sure if you will see this as it's quite an old video. Which was very easy to gollow and make the settings changes for a beginner. Can I ask I'm using a cannon eos600d it's quite old with a cannon 55/250 cannon lens. The TV and manual settings you recommend. Why would you use one over the other on anygivrn day at say a football game?? Thanks
Hi glad you liked the video. Yep, it's old but still viewed regularly. If yoru camera has Auto ISO I would use manual. Otherwise, use TV with the settings I've given. Good luck with the football photos and don't forget to register on www.GeoSnapshot.com to upload, share and sell your photos to the players. There is no fee for using GeoSnapShot.
Hi. great video very helpful. I just have one question at approx 5.28 in the video you can see on your lcd that exposure comp is what your adjusting but I recently got a 5d mkiii and mine is only adjusting aeb. please can you tell me how to change that setting as I cant find in the menu.thanks stacey
Hi Stacey, You should find all the information your after here. cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/exposure_settings/exposure_compensation.do?page=2
I have the same question, I have the 5d mkiii also and I can't figure out how you were able to get it to adjust exposure comp is manual mode. I do not get the + - like you do in the video at 5:28 on the Q menu while in manual mode. I reviewed the link you provided and that just talks about generic exposure comp settings (which I can do in every mode except manual). The reason I need to do this is because I want to set aperture and shutter speed while having ISO set to auto (due to constantly changing lighting in outdoor sports photography, ie.. shade/sun, and don't have time to try out ISO settings while the action is happening). At the same time I sometimes need to compensate for exposure due to backgrounds, etc. How in the heck do you change the exposure comp in manual mode like you did in the video? Thanks in advance.
I am sorry, but your description of the all AF points mode is incorrect. You can select the initial starting point. In fact, you see it as the highlighted AF point just above the center.
I shoot middle school and high school indoor and outdoor sports photography with a Canon 6D Mark II and Tamron 70-200mm 2.8 lens. I have the camera focus point set in the center of the view finder for taking images in a horizontal scene. It never occurred to me until i watched this video that when I turn the camera to a vertical scene that my focus point in the center will not be where I want it for a vertical photograph. Is there a setting to save two different focus points without changing from landscape to portrait ? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm gad you enjoyed the video! I'm not familiar with the 6DII but the 7DII has a differnt focal point setting for portrait and lanscape automaticlaly. Simply hold the camera in portrait and set the focal point, then turn the camera landscape and set the focal point at a differnt place. Now, when you move the camera you shuold see the focal point change automatically. That's how it works on the 7D. By the way if you take school and and sports photos you should have a look at selling or sharing those through our wessite (www.geosnapshot.com) which has been specifically built for school and sports photography. Just reach out to our support team if you need any help.
Hi. Thanks for the great, well explained video. I just changed all of my manual settings on my Canon EOS1100D for shotting photographs of my kids sports games. However, I noticed that they seemed quite over exposed. It was a netball court on a light grey court. I am thinking if it were a footy game it might have been ok. Should I change the settings based on the sport?
Are you shooting manual? Have you set your Shutter speed at 1/1250? And aperture at say 4.0. If so an overexposed photo is usually down to too much light. Try increasing your shutter speed to 1/2000. Does that make a difference? You will need different settings for outdoor and indoor sports but in general, all outdoor sports will be OK for different sports.
it seems that most professional shooters use jpeg. They are not going to be manipulating images in post and more than likely will be sending them to news desks via wifi links. Hence if you are doing this for hobby photos use raw otherwise use jpeg.
Fantastic video thanks for posting, it's been really helpful as I'm just starting out in sports photography. One quick question though. When setting the AF point selection in Expanded AF Area, in landscape I've set it as you have shown (top middle), but your comment about setting it in Portrait, if I move the selection area over to the right middle will it automatically defer to this area when I hold the camera in Portrait mode ?, and then automatically go back to top middle when I turn the camera back to landscape, or do you have to manually move the point selection area each time you turn the camera ?
Hi Mark, good to hear it was useful. I use a Canon 7D ii. It has something called "orientation linked AF point" where you can set the position of the default AF point in landscape and portrait separately. This is great for quickly being able to reposition your camera and focus point without having to physically move the AF point. On the back of this video we've also created a great website for when you're ready to sell or share your photos. Take a look at www.GeoSnapShot.com. You can ask us a ton of questions via support there as well.
@@geosnapshot1393 thanks so much for coming back to me, and for your help, I've now found the menu and set the AF points to how i want them 😃 (I too have a 7D Mark ii and am really impressed with it). I'll take a look at your website too. Many thanks once again, and keep up the great work
Yes it does but you shouldn't need to use the Kelvin scale at outdoor sports photography. In sports photography shooting in JPEG outweighs the benefits of shooting in RAW.
Hello, I’m trying to get up my 7D mark ii for sport but when I select the q in the square and goto the bottom left corner where the setting it “Meant” to be AI SERVO I don’t have that option? I can’t change it from MF for some reason? Does anyone know why this might be the case? Thank you.
It isn't so much speed as either will shoot at full frame rate for a while, but the number of images that you can make before you fill the buffer and the frame rate drops. Also be aware that the buffer size drop as the ISO increases.
Must Shoot RAW! -great advice for landscape/portrait photography 10 years ago. It's your choice, but in camera jpeg processing is really good these days, and most cameras can shoot far more photos in jpeg vs RAW before they fill the buffer and slow down or stop. There are advantages to both, but generally pro sports photographers shoot jpeg.
The higher your ISO goes the more likely I am to shoot RAW. When it gets darker I feel the auto white balance doesn't work as well so having RAW allows you to correct the color more effectively or I switch to kelvin and set your WB. I always shoot jpeg for day games or until the sun goes down and then switch to RAW and be more selective in long bursts of shots.
Agreed that for landscape/portrait must shoot raw because of post editing. What if, you have full-time job, work Monday - Friday from 9AM - 5PM and doing this as a hobby or cheap project freelance This is the requirements for you ================================== - Indoor volleyball photography (low light) - Only you yourself is the photographer - Up to 2,000 players at the facility. - Every player expected to see their action shots on social media within 3-7 days You don't have hours to spend to make each picture/pixel perfect. so shoot JPG will help.
I found most of the advice given was generally spot on. But the one thing that stuck out like a sore thumb was the suggestion not to shoot raw because it takes up too much space. Seriously? ? I wouldn't dream of shooting in anything but RAW. From kids birthday parties to air shows, it's RAW or nothing.. I have $400 worth of SD cards - not using them to their full capacity is ludicrous. I've NEVER run out of space ~ or cards. Fear of loosing a shot because your buffer is too slow is not the way I shoot. I don't "spray and pray" and I certainly do not shoot in JPEG. If you want to shoot JPEG, use a cell phone camera. If you want total control over your image from exposure to post processing; use RAW. Period. Auto ISO is another thing I don't ues. I'd prefer to shoot in as low an ISO as I can get away with. I've been in photography since 1974, so I think I know a thing or two about what ISO (formerly ASA) to use in what situation. I don't like the camera making that choice for me.
Photographers who use jpg usually do so because it's faster to upload/ingest photos. If you have the time, use RAW, but if you shoot properly, you won't need to edit your photos. I know where you're coming from, I started in 1977. You use what's best for your situation, jpg. or RAW not withstanding.
To be fair, I've seen a setting on some cameras that allows you to limit the auto ISO to a range of your choosing, for example, from 100 to 1600. In shutter priority mode for example, you will be then able to set you shutter speed manually as always, and define your preferred aperture. The camera will then automatically first try to compensate for light changes with changing the ISO, and only after reaching your set limit, it'll start changing the aperture, which I believe, you can also define min. and max. limits for.
I am the exclusive sports photographer for a large high school. I do all my sports shooting in JPEG. I take hundreds of photos per event and my editing consists mostly of slight tweaks. I do not need to get real deep into the guts of a photo taken during a sporting event. Now wedding and quinceanera shoots I do in RAW.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Don;t forget if you want to sell your sports photos please take a look at GeoSnapShot.com.
We've just introduced Face recognition, Bib Recognition and Event time to filter photos.
In addition we offer free public liability Insurance for all our photographers (excluding North America at this time)
I'm not a photographer but have been taking photos using a camera that's come into my possession. This tutorial is making a lot of sense for a total beginner! Thank you.
That's great! You make it so simple. I have worked most of this out after years of trial and (more often) error, always using shutter priority for sports. Now I will try full manual. A major thing, for me, was getting the auto-focus setting right, and you have confirmed what I thought. Blurred player, with pin-sharp advertising boards behind him, are a thing of the past. I hope.
Lol, youtube recommends really interesting stuff lately ;)
I like your approach to sport photography (I'm a self-taught photographer for nearly 20 years now), although if it's still relevant for you after 4 years, the first thing I learnt with my 350D (the PowerShot G6 wasn't really strong in it and I was 12 at the time anyway...) is that whatever you shoot at, you always - can't emphasize enough - ALWAYS use RAW. There are over 128GB CF and SD cards (I have a 7D Mk I for almost 6 years or so, it eats only CF), but even with my 32GB CF card I have over a 1000 pic space (1012 to be precise), and I never ran out of space. Swapping a memory card takes literally 5-10 seconds, you won't miss anything if you prepared enough, but the benefits of RAW can't be appreciated enough.
Related to that is one of the most important lesson I learnt, and I did it on the hard way - mainly because I've had "principles" - is that there is no perfect picture. No matter what you do, how long and how hard you try, you will use some kind of editor (I still prefer PS over GIMP), and that's where JPEG will stab you in the back. If it's only a quick color correction, or some contrast and lightning adjustments, if you don't have every single color in every possible shades in your picture already, you'll have a really hard time to create anything acceptable. It's not impossible, it's just a matter of how many scrap pictures you put on your shutter count, and as you might know as a sport photographer yourself, shutter count isn't last long enough to be able to afford thousands of scrap pictures.
But apart of that, I totally agree with anything else you said in the video, it sounds absolutely fine for the purpose.
I'm an amateur photographer at best, and recently, I attended a track meet for one of the grandkids and wanted to make some lasting memories. Your settings came in handy. Thanks a lot!
Hi! Great glad you found them useful. If you want to distribute those photos use our photo sales platform that has been specifically designed for sports. Check it out at www.GeoSnapShot.com
Wow, I've watched several sports settings tutorials and this old video is the best. Thorough and to the point. Thank you!
Ha, ha.. thanks TC. What you want to do next is use our website to share or sell your photos! Have a look at www.geosnaphshot.com
This was very useful. I'm the proud owner of a "new" used 1DX Mark III, to go along with my 7D, and I'm looking forward to doing some sports photography with it. Thanks for posting these settings!
I think I found this video best, to explain about camera settings. Simple and clear.
Thank you for the video! I just purchased a Canon 80D which is very similar to your camera! So getting everything set up for an upcoming photo shoot was breezy! Thank you again!
Best video set up I have found so far
Thanks Emie :)
Thanks for the advice, I thought there was something wrong with my 70-200 it looks like my settings were wrong though. I agree with everyone about shooting JPEG it's a no.
Great video thanks very much. I am a quadriplegic and just upgraded my Canon T 70 many years ago to a 500 D and now to a 750 D because I take photos using my old Canon T 70 T3 adapter and converted it to use on the 500 D and 750 D and uses a shutter release connected to a lens cleaning kit blower brush bulb and I bite on it to take photos it works fantastic. Also unfortunately I have to use an all in one 16-300 mm lens which I didn't know existed until recently instead of using the lens kit I had previously and was annoyed having to change lenses and take one or the other before leaving home. Would love to upgrade to a higher model can't waste time at the moment looking for somebody to adapt to new style of camera remote connection. Anyway will try your settings. Unfortunately tried sports mode motor racing event in Sydney and didn't come out as was expected and looking at tutorials found out is not the way to go. Some others use the AV mode instead of TV so was very interested to see your settings. Thanks a lot and will try them out regards Mark Sydney Australia.
At last! A video that explains things in plain English! Thank you so much!
Thanks for your comments :)
No problem, thank you! This video has given me renewed confidence, so much so that I used your advice when photographing my company's entry in a soapbox derby recently and they've used them on their website! Thank you and keep up the good work!
That is fantastic to hear. Thanks :)
Very good video. I was beginning to think something was wrong with my Canon 70-200 but these settings helped me get VERY sharp photos. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad to help. If you're taking sports photos and want to share or sell them be sure to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com. We've got world-leading face recognition technology so people at your sports events can find themselves quickly and easily.
Your video was very helpful. I have not used my Canon 70D for a few years, so I needed a refresher. This camera has so many possible settings. Your suggestions will improve my shots of tomorrow's Dragon boat races. Thanks.
Finally a sports photographer who recommends you shoot in JPEG !! It's ridiculous to recommend that you shoot in RAW due to the amount of post processing that is required. Shoot 3000 pictures in RAW and you will be bogged down forever processing them. Let's face it most of never have our photos published and they only appear on social media so there is no need for using RAW.Also agree to shoot to set your aperture and shutter speed then use Auto ISO. This way you can ensure you have the correct shutter speed to freeze action and the amount of background blur you desire.Using aperture priority results in too many photos having motion blur unless you are always adjusting for changing lighting conditions.
I just learnt more from you just now, than I learnt in 6 months from Tafe. Thank you so much
Ha, ha! Thanks Lauren, that's such a lovely feedback. We have plenty more to give. Join www.GeoSnaphShot.com and we'll show you how to make money from your hobby as well :)
Most sports photographers shoot jpeg. The reasons for this can be down to the buffer and image storage, to that of sending images from the camera to your mobile phone or laptop or computer, most press sports photographers require the images to get out there into the wider world community so speed is more important than having a raw file that takes time plus internal camera power. There are however times when shooting raw is advantageous but that comes down to the type of event, conditions and light, the experience of the user and is it relevant. Overall, raw is not the be all and end all. The video herein is correct, again the saliant point was made at the beginning which most folk failed to listen to.
Wrong, that is depend on the media company you work with, I'm shoot with RAW and Jpeg. With Raw files we have proof of evidence our pics are genuine and not altered with editing software. In Journalistic is very taboo to altered the pics.
even crop if that is cause different story of the photo is forbidden. white balance, exposure, saturation is allowed. Altered not allowed eg. take off the hearing aid, take away/put on another object to the photo.
Actually my reply is for PAP PAP.
I know, because I was wrong click to reply from the beginning.
Very good and helpful video. Hope this will help me when I go to the Vietnamese F1 race in April!
This helped me out so much! I was able to take great night action photos! Thank you!
Thank you for the well explained, step by step detailed video for sports photography. Just want i needed. Great effort mate, heaps of thanks
Just a quick thanks on this went out today to do some Mx which I’ve done before but this has really helped
Awesome, Richard, good to know. Don't forget to have a look at www.GeoSnapshot.com to be able to share and sell you photos with no subscription costs.
THANK YOU! I got some great shots at our school basketball game! I used shutter priority and I was really impressed. I shot with a Canon 6Dii and 85mm 1.2
Excellent Bobby! That's great news. We've also built GeoSnapShot to help sports photographers share and sell their photos. It's free to use!!
Check it out here: geosnapshot.com/
Brilliant video easy to follow and understand.
I have just upgraded my canon 60d to a 7dmkii .I shoot motorsport and have set my camera defaults to which you suggest to get a new base line .
Thanks for posting this video very helpful
Great, informative video! Better than the CanonUSA videos that assume you know things that you don't know.
Thanks Douglas.
Thanks for the video. I think modern storage cards are big enough and cheap enough to allow for raw storage.
Most camera shoot far more jpeg before filling the buffer than RAW, and they clear the buffer faster. Most Pro sports photographers shoot jpeg for this and other reasons.
Most pro sports photographers are more concerned with he time they have to get to publisher, and the quality of image needed for that , and jpg is better for that. I used to shoot a lot of race track stuff before I retired, and rarely filled the buffer when panning at 8fps, even shooting raw most of the time.
Most pro sports photographers are only using the photos for low resolution uses they are not worried about losing pixels . I think the guy in the video is talking to moms and dads taking photos of there kids ,so raw would be the way to go to be able to edit the photo as much as possible to get a good final photo .
Mate I am in LOVE with this video. Your explanations are excellent particularly on auto focus points. I shoot a lot of Australian Rules Football, I have a Grandson who plays, and I think you have solved my "a little bit soft" problem by choosing the point just above centre so that, hopefully. the face is where the camera will focus because the action changes in direction and distance so quickly that a lot of the time it just misses sharp focus because I am aiming at the centre of the seen mass, Army talk lol. The only thing I disagree with is your preference for shooting in JPG other than RAW. Memory is cheaper these days although I must admit time is a factor to load if your keeping the finger on the trigger. But I don't seem to have a problem with that probably because I learnt on film back in the day. Much appreciated thank you !!!!
Great Peter. We run the GeoSnapShot platform so all those photos of Aussie Rules can be shared/sold via GeoSnapShot. There is no subscription free so it's free to use. I imagine you have an archive of photos from games. Now that everyone has the time it's worth uploading all those photos from past games and sharing with the club/players.
@@andyedwards7883 Thanks I will check it out.
I’ve learned more from this video than the last 10 TH-cam videos I have watched lol
This is gold, thanks!
Decent video as a starting point, but you missed covering autofocus cases, and use of RAW or JPEG is not predicated on the size of the files (use bigger cards) but the need to pull the detail from highlights and shadows for certain applications (e.g. SI uses RAW, newspapers use JPEG).
Good points Keith. It's hard to cover everything in one video that people will watch. So Autofocus may well be another video. In terms of RAW, yes I agree, as many posts have said it not about size of files (or size of cards available). Thanks for your comments.
Thank you. Great video. Learned a ton. Shooting a soccer game tomorrow. Looking forward to using all that I have learned here.
Awesome, Ted. Don't forget you can use GeoSnapShot.com to share or sell photos easily and quickly from your soccer game.
Players can use face recognition to find their photos quickly and easily.
Thank you for the very best of all regarding sports and the camera focus and active parts you make it 110% easy to understand even for an old man like myself? I CALL IT (SIMPLE) KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID! IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT!
I have a Canon 5D Mk IV with a Canon 70-200 mm F 2.8. I shoot high school American football that starts from dusk to the evening hours under the lights.
My settings are:
ISO : 100 - 16000
Mode Dial : M
Aperture : F 2.8 fixed
Shutter Speed : 1/1000 fixed
Picture Style : Fine Detail
Drive Mode : High Speed Continuous
AF Operation : AI Servo
The only adjustment I make is the ISO when I shoot when afternoon sun is still up onto the evening when stadium lights are being used..
Works fine for me.
Very understandable, without uselessness, without "emopty words" :-) Thanks!
Thanks for the video and it helped me get VERY sharp photos. One Love
One love indeed Chijioke!
Very helpful! Thank you so much from Cambodia
It's a pleasure Cam, glad to help. If you're interested in using a platform to share or sell you photos please use www.geosnapshot.com. Thanks.
very good video with clear considerations about the camera setting. It could be interesting to define the camera settings for the shoot in the environments with artificial lights, e.g. pools with waterpolo matches.
sir I wont to Canon 5D mark 3 kamara Whod you lik help me Please
Thanks for posting this useful feature. Do you have any additional tips for shooting soccer under floodlights?
640 shutter minimum if possible... An f2.8 lens... Wait for action to be in the lighter areas of the pitch if its particularly bad... need a decent camera that copes with high iso's
This is so helpful, thanks Andy! You've saved me loads of time
No worries, it's a pleasure. Now jump on board with www.GeoSnapShot.com and start selling your photos!! :)
Great video! I try not to use Auto ISO unless you are outdoors and it is a day game with clouds that are changing too often to keep up with setting your ISO manually. You risk really grainy shots using Auto ISO at night with a 1250 shutter speed and your aperture at > F4..
On some cameras you can set limits to your ISO. Just set a maximum allowed ISO and don't worry about it.
Thank you.This was very useful.
These are such great tips thanks for the advice 😀
Great video.....Any suggestions on settings for indoor sports (High School Wrestling) ? Thanks
Hi Bob, I haven't done a video on indoor sports setting yet.... perhaps I'll do one of those soon.
However you may find this helpful th-cam.com/video/xW9JQbJ8uLs/w-d-xo.html
Great video and best review.. thanks
Enjoyed the section on focus points, will let you know how I go on
Awesome! Don;t forget to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com as a place to upload and sell your photos. We've just launched face recognition making it even easier for people to find (and buy) photos of themselves!
I come to you from the future where cards can now hold thousands and thousands of photos and theres no need to shoot jpg only unless youre a professional that needs to send them off in real time!
Hi GeoSnapShot, It's really so helpful video.
Will you share your user defined picture style settings? Thank you.
Thank you. Very clear and very helpful.
Thank you. I've leared a lot. Most advantage for me as a begginer is, I can see it again and again.
I really enjoy your video I wish you could go back to the Canon 5D Mk11.
Love it mate 🥰💖👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I would recommend a larger card vs. shooting in jpg. Raw always for maximum control over your images
changing the image format from raw to jpeg is useful in case your camera doesn't have a big buffer, in my case a canon 600d can do a maximum of 6 raw shots before slowing down and waiting for the card to write. But when i switched to jpeg i counted 13 shots and i think it could go on and on.
Hi Very helpful vid. Just setting mine up and I cant seem to get the AF point selection screen on the rear display,only through the view finder. Is there a setting I'm missing?
Hi, Thanks for your question. You can access the the AF point selection through the camera menu system. It's not available from the "Q" menu (on a Canon) on the back screen so simply scroll through the menus until you get to "AF Point Selection" and you should be good.
wow, what a great and helpful video! thank you!
My pleasure Irina, If you want to sell your sports photos please visit my website GeoSnapShot.com.
thanks a lot, very helpful videos
Very helpful! Thank you so much
You left out case 1-4. I forgot the name but it's important for changing settings. Case 1 is the default settings.
Thank you. Covered all the points I wanted answered.
Awesome, Good to hear David. If you're shooting sports photography why not join our website www.GeoSnapShot.com, we've got 5,500 in over 92 countries.
Thanks for the helpful video,when using TV mode with the 5D mkii using a Canon af lens do I switch the af to manual focus ?
Hi, no, you should stick with Auto Focus nearly 100% of the time. The AF system is very advanced and should get you the best results nearly all of the time. See our other blog for camera tips and selling photos at geosnapshot.com/blog/
Do you have "ideal" settings for outdoor portrait camera settings. I shoot Canon too and just purchased the 5D Mark III. Thanks so much for sharing.
Great video, just one thing: the square with a "fan" and number 1 takes pictures not in color.
Hi Rebecca, I'm not sure I understand your question.... is there a position in the video you're referring to?
Never mind. Your video is clear in all aspects. It was just the position of taking Landscape, Portrait, etc. photos. The position of your camera in this video takes photos in black and white.
Great! Did you look at our website www.GeoSnapShot.com for selling your sports photo?
how flattering! I did try selling my photos. It failed on me. Parents have other expenses, photos were excluded. Now, since I am an amateur, and photography is a hobby for me, I give them away. Thank you for the offer! You are a magnificent Tutor!
Awesome video!! Thanks
What settings would you change for shooting sport at night?
you'll need to invest in a fast zoom lens to catch the motion without too much grain. otherwise you will have to push your iso really high
I have 5 D mark 2 ..can you help me ,setting for out door.models.thanks
I just got myself a used 7D to play around with. Does 7D have an equivalent feature/setting similar to the Nikon 3D tracking?
Hi i set up my canon 7d for surf photography with expand af and ai servo,I was taking some practice shots of a windmill near my house but when i hold down the shutter half way it does not beep or the focus points do not light up.Im left wondering am i doing something wrong or is that just the way al servo works.When i change to ai focus mode i hear beeps when i hold down the shutter half way and the focus points light up.Is ai servo on my camera working properly.It actualy does say in the manual that the camera will not beep in ai servo mode.I find this very strange and i dont like it.Ihave a ef 70-300ml lens on my 7d.What do you think is it working properly and i will just have to get used to it or is thr something wrong?
Yes it so useful. THANKS ❤
Hello GeoSnapShot, Thank you for your very informative video. Good tips for a lot of people wishing to improve their photography. I also have a question. While showing on how to select and move the selected areas around the 61 or so focused points... How do you get to see it on back screen? I have a 5D III and I don't know how to see the same. Thank you in advance.
Hi, Very good question! You need to press the "info" button repeatedly on the back of your camera until you get something that looks like the "Q" menu screen (but is not the "Q" menu screen).
When you get to that screen using the "info" button press the right hand top button at the back of the camera. It is to the right hand side of the button marked "*".
Does that work for you?
Brilliant!.. Thank you kindly for your knowledge and wisdom. And thank you for sharing with this community!
Great, glad it worked. Don't to join www.GeoSnapShot.com so yo can share and sell your sports photos.
Thank you
So helpful ❤️ thank you so much
That a pleasure Omar. Don't forget to jump onto GeoSnapShot.com if you want to sell or share your sports photos.
Hello
Not sure if you will see this as it's quite an old video. Which was very easy to gollow and make the settings changes for a beginner. Can I ask I'm using a cannon eos600d it's quite old with a cannon 55/250 cannon lens.
The TV and manual settings you recommend. Why would you use one over the other on anygivrn day at say a football game??
Thanks
Hi glad you liked the video. Yep, it's old but still viewed regularly.
If yoru camera has Auto ISO I would use manual. Otherwise, use TV with the settings I've given.
Good luck with the football photos and don't forget to register on www.GeoSnapshot.com to upload, share and sell your photos to the players. There is no fee for using GeoSnapShot.
I love that
Thank you a lot
Thanks! This is great info!
Pleasure Vicki :)
superb video. thanks
Hi. great video very helpful. I just have one question at approx 5.28 in the video you can see on your lcd that exposure comp is what your adjusting but I recently got a 5d mkiii and mine is only adjusting aeb. please can you tell me how to change that setting as I cant find in the menu.thanks stacey
Hi Stacey, You should find all the information your after here. cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/exposure_settings/exposure_compensation.do?page=2
I have the same question, I have the 5d mkiii also and I can't figure out how you were able to get it to adjust exposure comp is manual mode. I do not get the + - like you do in the video at 5:28 on the Q menu while in manual mode. I reviewed the link you provided and that just talks about generic exposure comp settings (which I can do in every mode except manual). The reason I need to do this is because I want to set aperture and shutter speed while having ISO set to auto (due to constantly changing lighting in outdoor sports photography, ie.. shade/sun, and don't have time to try out ISO settings while the action is happening). At the same time I sometimes need to compensate for exposure due to backgrounds, etc. How in the heck do you change the exposure comp in manual mode like you did in the video? Thanks in advance.
The actual answer is in your User Manual:
"Exposure Compensation can be set in the P/Tv/Av shooting modes."
Simply said! Thank you!
Great Video
I am sorry, but your description of the all AF points mode is incorrect. You can select the initial starting point. In fact, you see it as the highlighted AF point just above the center.
I shoot middle school and high school indoor and outdoor sports photography with a Canon 6D Mark II and Tamron 70-200mm 2.8 lens. I have the camera focus point set in the center of the view finder for taking images in a horizontal scene. It never occurred to me until i watched this video that when I turn the camera to a vertical scene that my focus point in the center will not be where I want it for a vertical photograph. Is there a setting to save two different focus points without changing from landscape to portrait ? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm gad you enjoyed the video! I'm not familiar with the 6DII but the 7DII has a differnt focal point setting for portrait and lanscape automaticlaly. Simply hold the camera in portrait and set the focal point, then turn the camera landscape and set the focal point at a differnt place. Now, when you move the camera you shuold see the focal point change automatically. That's how it works on the 7D. By the way if you take school and and sports photos you should have a look at selling or sharing those through our wessite (www.geosnapshot.com) which has been specifically built for school and sports photography. Just reach out to our support team if you need any help.
@@geosnapshot1393 Thank you very much, I will try it out.
Hi. Thanks for the great, well explained video. I just changed all of my manual settings on my Canon EOS1100D for shotting photographs of my kids sports games. However, I noticed that they seemed quite over exposed. It was a netball court on a light grey court. I am thinking if it were a footy game it might have been ok. Should I change the settings based on the sport?
Are you shooting manual? Have you set your Shutter speed at 1/1250? And aperture at say 4.0. If so an overexposed photo is usually down to too much light.
Try increasing your shutter speed to 1/2000.
Does that make a difference?
You will need different settings for outdoor and indoor sports but in general, all outdoor sports will be OK for different sports.
Don't forget you can share and sell you photos of the kids sports using GeoSnapShot.com
it seems that most professional shooters use jpeg. They are not going to be manipulating images in post and more than likely will be sending them to news desks via wifi links. Hence if you are doing this for hobby photos use raw otherwise use jpeg.
Thank you!
Fantastic video thanks for posting, it's been really helpful as I'm just starting out in sports photography. One quick question though. When setting the AF point selection in Expanded AF Area, in landscape I've set it as you have shown (top middle), but your comment about setting it in Portrait, if I move the selection area over to the right middle will it automatically defer to this area when I hold the camera in Portrait mode ?, and then automatically go back to top middle when I turn the camera back to landscape, or do you have to manually move the point selection area each time you turn the camera ?
Hi Mark, good to hear it was useful.
I use a Canon 7D ii. It has something called "orientation linked AF point" where you can set the position of the default AF point in landscape and portrait separately.
This is great for quickly being able to reposition your camera and focus point without having to physically move the AF point.
On the back of this video we've also created a great website for when you're ready to sell or share your photos. Take a look at www.GeoSnapShot.com.
You can ask us a ton of questions via support there as well.
@@geosnapshot1393 thanks so much for coming back to me, and for your help, I've now found the menu and set the AF points to how i want them 😃 (I too have a 7D Mark ii and am really impressed with it). I'll take a look at your website too. Many thanks once again, and keep up the great work
Super cool !
I plan to shoot fish jumping out of the water, what autofocus settings would be best since face recognition won't work.
OMG! It's Phil 'The Power' Taylor!
I see you shooting user defined 1 style. Can you show me a pic so I can copy your settings.
Very nicee thanks
JPEG limits post processing capabilities, especially when it comes to the Kelvin scale
Yes it does but you shouldn't need to use the Kelvin scale at outdoor sports photography. In sports photography shooting in JPEG outweighs the benefits of shooting in RAW.
can i use a 55-300mm lens for action photography? nothing professional
@punketsly Yep, absolutely. The zoom that you have with that lens will be good for all types of sports photography.
perfect explanations thanks!
Ha, ha... glad you liked it. Thanks :)
Hello, I’m trying to get up my 7D mark ii for sport but when I select the q in the square and goto the bottom left corner where the setting it “Meant” to be AI SERVO I don’t have that option? I can’t change it from MF for some reason? Does anyone know why this might be the case? Thank you.
Hi Mitchell, some initial questions that may sound a bit obvious... do you hav a lens attached? Is the lens set on AF (not MF)?
perfect explanations, many thanks!
Great video but must shoot in raw !!!
It isn't so much speed as either will shoot at full frame rate for a while, but the number of images that you can make before you fill the buffer and the frame rate drops. Also be aware that the buffer size drop as the ISO increases.
Must Shoot RAW! -great advice for landscape/portrait photography 10 years ago. It's your choice, but in camera jpeg processing is really good these days, and most cameras can shoot far more photos in jpeg vs RAW before they fill the buffer and slow down or stop. There are advantages to both, but generally pro sports photographers shoot jpeg.
The higher your ISO goes the more likely I am to shoot RAW. When it gets darker I feel the auto white balance doesn't work as well so having RAW allows you to correct the color more effectively or I switch to kelvin and set your WB. I always shoot jpeg for day games or until the sun goes down and then switch to RAW and be more selective in long bursts of shots.
Agreed that for landscape/portrait must shoot raw because of post editing.
What if, you have full-time job, work Monday - Friday from 9AM - 5PM and doing this as a hobby or cheap project freelance
This is the requirements for you
==================================
- Indoor volleyball photography (low light)
- Only you yourself is the photographer
- Up to 2,000 players at the facility.
- Every player expected to see their action shots on social media within 3-7 days
You don't have hours to spend to make each picture/pixel perfect. so shoot JPG will help.
I found most of the advice given was generally spot on. But the one thing that stuck out like a sore thumb was the suggestion not to shoot raw because it takes up too much space.
Seriously? ?
I wouldn't dream of shooting in anything but RAW. From kids birthday parties to air shows, it's RAW or nothing..
I have $400 worth of SD cards - not using them to their full capacity is ludicrous. I've NEVER run out of space ~ or cards. Fear of loosing a shot because your buffer is too slow is not the way I shoot. I don't "spray and pray" and I certainly do not shoot in JPEG.
If you want to shoot JPEG, use a cell phone camera. If you want total control over your image from exposure to post processing; use RAW. Period.
Auto ISO is another thing I don't ues. I'd prefer to shoot in as low an ISO as I can get away with. I've been in photography since 1974, so I think I know a thing or two about what ISO (formerly ASA) to use in what situation. I don't like the camera making that choice for me.
Photographers who use jpg usually do so because it's faster to upload/ingest photos. If you have the time, use RAW, but if you shoot properly, you won't need to edit your photos. I know where you're coming from, I started in 1977. You use what's best for your situation, jpg. or RAW not withstanding.
I full agree Louie.
To be fair, I've seen a setting on some cameras that allows you to limit the auto ISO to a range of your choosing, for example, from 100 to 1600. In shutter priority mode for example, you will be then able to set you shutter speed manually as always, and define your preferred aperture. The camera will then automatically first try to compensate for light changes with changing the ISO, and only after reaching your set limit, it'll start changing the aperture, which I believe, you can also define min. and max. limits for.
I am the exclusive sports photographer for a large high school. I do all my sports shooting in JPEG. I take hundreds of photos per event and my editing consists mostly of slight tweaks. I do not need to get real deep into the guts of a photo taken during a sporting event. Now wedding and quinceanera shoots I do in RAW.
To all canon user there,i have a quick question,which one better to upgrade 6d mark2 or 5d mark3?i own 70d,thanks