It would have taken me many nights thinking about those mysterious water marks and what they really are. Thanks for restful nights in the future. Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
The results are looking amazing, i must bring myself to start building a kayak, i'm planning to do that for a way too long, i thought to build the guillemot kayak from your book, i even cut the forms once but didn't start the actual build, seeing the result of a SG i think that i'll do the guillemot SG one instead of the strip. And i guess that i am the one you talked about in the end that stick with the series and have not subscribed. Thanks for all the videos.
@@NickSchade That Net type abrasive works really well in the hand held vacuum connected sanders - I've tried the 'Abra' and the much more economical 'Ali-Abra' -- I didn't notice a lack of performance in the non branded bought off "Ali with speed' - their hand sander (velcro&Dust extract) which has a convex across its width is gold for inside the boat
Nick - since you're coming to the end of this project. Do you think you might look for another Colab with CLC to do a Hybrid? I think folks have seen how 'Do Able' stitch and Glue is -- the logical progression is S&G would be a Strip Built Deck boat. The beauty of the wood strip (Where it mostly seen and the swiftness of the S&G build below the waterline. It is my next project when I get the Sea Island Sport, Wood Duckling and a Coot finished from plans off of Fyne Boats UK
Despite your best efforts, I have been enjoying the series and learning a lot. I am keen to build one of these when I get home to Canada next year. Is the Petrel Play a good choice for a lake and (calm) river kayak (day tripping mainly), or do you have another model that would be more appropriate?
I noticed you removed the masking tape along the shear line after the first coat of varnish. Would you do that with every coat - remove the tape and reapply the tape before another coat?
At roughly minute 13:00 you talk about trying to go after the shiny spot without leaving a bit of a hollow. Would alternative be to fill those shiny spot with just a touch of epoxy to the shiny spot (after roughing) and then sanding the created slight mound?
Yes, If you can not get the surface to a uniform sanded surface without sanding into the glass, add more resin. If it is just a few isolated spots it is possible to carefully fill those spots, but it can be tricky to sand those spots fair due to the step between the filled area and its surrounding area.
UV will destroy epoxy over time. This is not a problem with surfboards because they aren’t meant to last very long. Varnish protects the epoxy so the kayak can be used for years, with an occasional re-varnishing.
It would have taken me many nights thinking about those mysterious water marks and what they really are. Thanks for restful nights in the future. Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
The results are looking amazing, i must bring myself to start building a kayak, i'm planning to do that for a way too long, i thought to build the guillemot kayak from your book, i even cut the forms once but didn't start the actual build, seeing the result of a SG i think that i'll do the guillemot SG one instead of the strip. And i guess that i am the one you talked about in the end that stick with the series and have not subscribed. Thanks for all the videos.
Getting started on the project is always the hardest part for me
Always great to get a lesson. One thing I was taught was that you don't PAINT varnish on ... you LAY it on. It helped me
You probably want to lay on paint as well.
Looks really good!
I have been procrastinating revarnishing my kayak but I may have a little more motivation to getting it started. Thanks for all of the tips!
Go for it!
Perfect timing Nick. I'm about to revarnish my Guillemot in preparation for the Mystic Wooden Boat show. This video is a big help.
Glad it was helpful! See you at the show
You definitely want to figure out the most efficient sanding method. I like the dust evacuation.
The dust collection makes the process much cleaner and the sandpaper lasts longer.
@@NickSchade That Net type abrasive works really well in the hand held vacuum connected sanders - I've tried the 'Abra' and the much more economical 'Ali-Abra' -- I didn't notice a lack of performance in the non branded bought off "Ali with speed' - their hand sander (velcro&Dust extract) which has a convex across its width is gold for inside the boat
Really helpful videos - thanks. I was concerned about the finish on my CLC kayak but now have a handle on how to proceed.
Glad it helped!
Looking good!
Thanks!
Nick - since you're coming to the end of this project. Do you think you might look for another Colab with CLC to do a Hybrid?
I think folks have seen how 'Do Able' stitch and Glue is -- the logical progression is S&G would be a Strip Built Deck boat.
The beauty of the wood strip (Where it mostly seen and the swiftness of the S&G build below the waterline.
It is my next project when I get the Sea Island Sport, Wood Duckling and a Coot finished from plans off of Fyne Boats UK
I will certainly think about it. I think it could be a good idea.
Despite your best efforts, I have been enjoying the series and learning a lot. I am keen to build one of these when I get home to Canada next year. Is the Petrel Play a good choice for a lake and (calm) river kayak (day tripping mainly), or do you have another model that would be more appropriate?
Yes, the Petrel Play would make a great boat for lakes and calm rivers. It is comfortable, stable and easy to handle
I noticed you removed the masking tape along the shear line after the first coat of varnish. Would you do that with every coat - remove the tape and reapply the tape before another coat?
Generally, for most varnish, yes, remove the tape and add new with each coat.
Hey Nick, any news on when the next episode of E29 is coming out? Was 28 the finale?
I am off teaching for a few weeks and need to shoot the final couple episodes. There may be a gap as I get caught up, but the series is not done yet.
At roughly minute 13:00 you talk about trying to go after the shiny spot without leaving a bit of a hollow. Would alternative be to fill those shiny spot with just a touch of epoxy to the shiny spot (after roughing) and then sanding the created slight mound?
Yes, If you can not get the surface to a uniform sanded surface without sanding into the glass, add more resin. If it is just a few isolated spots it is possible to carefully fill those spots, but it can be tricky to sand those spots fair due to the step between the filled area and its surrounding area.
Why varnish? Why not epoxy final coat like on a surfboard???? Thanks
UV will destroy epoxy over time. This is not a problem with surfboards because they aren’t meant to last very long. Varnish protects the epoxy so the kayak can be used for years, with an occasional re-varnishing.
@@NickSchade What about Clear Coat used in the Autobody industry?
I like Jen brand foam brushes. There are a lot of inferior brushes out there !
I’m happy Jen is still making them. I had a source of superior chip brushes, but they disappeared.
What varnish is?
We are using Z-Spar Captains varnish by Pettit. It is a traditional oil-based spar varnish
@@NickSchade thanks for your answer. I thought it was polyurethane.