After watching your video I realized I was not correctly attaching my halyard around the mast when attaching it to the yard as the original designer intended. Thank you for posting this video it was very informative.
I use the Parrel beads on my Standing Lug rig, similar to yours. My solution was to splice the parrel bead cord to the halyard after putting it round the mast. I left enough halyard to tie around the yard, and I can do this from the boat standing aft of the mast. Once the yard is tied off, I hoist away the main sail. If I need a reef, I lower the yard enough to set the reef, then hoist back up and pull down the boom down haul to tension the sail. The beads stay around the mast with the halyard. I use the standing end to tie off the main halyard to a mast cleat and tighten the line when not sailing. This works quite well also. Cheers
Thankyou - I found this useful. With my lug rigged Pathfinder I opted for Nigel Irens solution of having a 3 part halyard that uses one 'leg' as the raising part and it's second part around the mast acting as a parrel line. I now have a similar thing to work out with a much smaller dinghy and the boat only needs a one part halyard but I think it will be more effective if I also give it a running parrel line as you have done.
Mast travellers work well on most setups, but not on my boat because it has a high peaked lugsail with the halyard connected to the middle of the yard. Makes connecting and unconnecting the mast traveller tricky. Shame, because a mast traveller is an elegant solution.
Well-made video. Thanks. And a lovely boat. I have a Vivier-designed lug yawl rigged Ilur. I use a parrel line, but I like your (Gartside's) parrel line solution. Something to think about.
I always attach the halyard at 1/3 the yard length and put a parrel bead loop at the attachment point. No issues, up down reefed or full, the yard is always next to the mast. No extra lines… looks like you’re attaching the halyard too far aft.
@@WavingNotDrowning This might be the key point. Your mid-yard halyard attachment is why a traveller is not working for you, though since your sail seems to be designed for mid-yard attachment you do benefit from a spar that hoists and lowers horizontally. A sail cut for 1/3 attachment poit like the pram you show needs tension kept on the luff when lowering in order to keep the yard from inverting. The method Lillistone tried is used on all Michael Storer's designs and seems to work in his case because the strop on the yard through which the halyard is rove is able slide and thus cinch the yard against the mast somewhat. On the balanced lug of Lymington Scow class there is no parrel or traveller at all because the mast and high-peaked yard are sized so the halyard attachment point and mast sheave meet closely. To facilitate this the halyard is not tied or shackled to the yard but rove through a ring and then looped over a hook allowing the yard to come very cloasr the the mast halyared sheave without obstruction. For reefing there is a second ring further along on the yard the halyard must be moved to.
After watching your video I realized I was not correctly attaching my halyard around the mast when attaching it to the yard as the original designer intended. Thank you for posting this video it was very informative.
I’m glad it helped.
Following Paul is good practice. I restored Tomboy, a Bolger lug rogged sharpie. She was rigged this way when purchased.
Thank you for sharing. That’s really good to know.
I use the Parrel beads on my Standing Lug rig, similar to yours. My solution was to splice the parrel bead cord to the halyard after putting it round the mast. I left enough halyard to tie around the yard, and I can do this from the boat standing aft of the mast. Once the yard is tied off, I hoist away the main sail. If I need a reef, I lower the yard enough to set the reef, then hoist back up and pull down the boom down haul to tension the sail. The beads stay around the mast with the halyard. I use the standing end to tie off the main halyard to a mast cleat and tighten the line when not sailing. This works quite well also. Cheers
Ingenious.
Thankyou - I found this useful. With my lug rigged Pathfinder I opted for Nigel Irens solution of having a 3 part halyard that uses one 'leg' as the raising part and it's second part around the mast acting as a parrel line. I now have a similar thing to work out with a much smaller dinghy and the boat only needs a one part halyard but I think it will be more effective if I also give it a running parrel line as you have done.
Interesting. Pathfinder is a nice boat. Am glad you found the video helpful.
Well thought out and very useful discussion. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice solution. I'll stick with the mast traveler on my own boat, but this is nice.
Mast travellers work well on most setups, but not on my boat because it has a high peaked lugsail with the halyard connected to the middle of the yard. Makes connecting and unconnecting the mast traveller tricky. Shame, because a mast traveller is an elegant solution.
Well-made video. Thanks. And a lovely boat. I have a Vivier-designed lug yawl rigged Ilur. I use a parrel line, but I like your (Gartside's) parrel line solution. Something to think about.
I love Vivier’s stuff. Glad you liked the video.
BTW Paul Gartside is a Cornishman. But he has lived in the US for quite a while.
Yes. He has. And he’s had quite a journey.
Your videos provide great insight and details as I make my plans for a 'Gentleman's Sailing Canoe' that I will build one day soon.
“Gentleman’s Sailing Canoe”…glorious!
@@WavingNotDrowning Yes, it will be a poor man's version of the Breen Gentleman's Racer, but just as bling. th-cam.com/video/6frijCHFHaU/w-d-xo.html
That'll be something special.
I always attach the halyard at 1/3 the yard length and put a parrel bead loop at the attachment point. No issues, up down reefed or full, the yard is always next to the mast. No extra lines… looks like you’re attaching the halyard too far aft.
I’ll ponder that one. But the yard is connected as specified in the plans.
@@WavingNotDrowning This might be the key point. Your mid-yard halyard attachment is why a traveller is not working for you, though since your sail seems to be designed for mid-yard attachment you do benefit from a spar that hoists and lowers horizontally. A sail cut for 1/3 attachment poit like the pram you show needs tension kept on the luff when lowering in order to keep the yard from inverting. The method Lillistone tried is used on all Michael Storer's designs and seems to work in his case because the strop on the yard through which the halyard is rove is able slide and thus cinch the yard against the mast somewhat. On the balanced lug of Lymington Scow class there is no parrel or traveller at all because the mast and high-peaked yard are sized so the halyard attachment point and mast sheave meet closely. To facilitate this the halyard is not tied or shackled to the yard but rove through a ring and then looped over a hook allowing the yard to come very cloasr the the mast halyared sheave without obstruction. For reefing there is a second ring further along on the yard the halyard must be moved to.
Vvery helpful info. Many thanks.