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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- #diesejl #saveoldiron
Today on the channel we look into Caterpillar 977L number one to find once and for all why it has the pesky knock. Have you ever seen a diesel with great oil pressure knock like this? Is it really just an injector knock?? Tune in to find out!!
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Old cat guy here again. Now that you have confirmed #6, cut your oil filter open take a cross section of the media and squeeze in vise to remove oil. Then look at debris left in filter. Put magnet to material. Aluminum equals bearing material. Brass/bronze is wristpin bushing. Steel is a scored liner. Like I said before, cats usually don't fail wrist pins. When ran low on oil, #6 is farthest run from oil pump. Last to get oil. Never in 25 years seen one fail on #1. When you do finally pull the pan in next video, will see #6 rod cap discolored. Unless TH-cam is paying well or you have a spare engine, lots of money to invest. I hope I am wrong and all you need is a connecting rod, but I know what past experience tells me. Good luck.
Thanks! Just a small challenge lies ahead for us…
Pretty much my thoughts as well
Been waiting for another vid on these old girls, keep upthe vids
Thanks! I’m at home with the baby, moving a little slow but hopefully we’ll be back at it soon.
The oil hole in the crank will be blocked by bits of Babit metal from the run bearing shells, that's why you still have good oil pressure. Same happened to my engine.
This is must watch TV. Super hype for this series.
Yeah!! Thanks for the support!!
Pops did a great job on being the videographer!!!
Yeah!! Him and Bill closed it out for us. I’m at home with a newborn. Glad you thought it was good, he’ll be happy to see!!
The passion in there voices
For the injector tester....you are leaking too much around the connection to the injector to accurately test it. Once you get close to the pop off pressure, you turn that knob clockwise to bring it up to pop off pressure and watch the spray pattern.
That’s good advice. As you can see I had no clue what I was doing but at least it gives us some information.
Awesome video. I've never seen that much lack of movement on a rod /piston. I bet the wrist pin is toast. Maybe the rod bearing as well. A 1/4" is a lot of travel for just a rod journal.
We will see!!
Reminds me of my field service days when I was in construction. Here in Canada it went from really cold days to really rainy days to hot days. It was never really just right. The only real reprieve from hot days was working under the machine or working on an engine that had just been running when in the cold.
Loved it ... hated it at the same time but man oh man the money was great.
Second valve from the rear of the engine( cab side) looked to be knocking at exact time you hear that noise....it matches it moving exactly( from cameras point of view) I'm no mechanic, this was just an observation....im just a Jack of all trades, master of none!
Thanks for the update video, at least you are past the guys in denial and trying to justify not taking it apart stage. Now you know it's a tear down and find out, as a farm mechanic i'll say It's just like guessing what's in the box with the lid closed now. It could be any of a few possibilities or combination of more than 1 depending how that motor lubricates bearings and wrist pin bushes internally . Take care guys
Thanks! When you buy something like this you know what you’re getting into… anything and everything hahaha
Set valve clearance first
Strike one up for us ole guys, 64 and counting. great video keep them coming.
These days i almost immediately go for a oil filter inspection. Sometimes it saves a bunch of troubleshooting.
When you get it running. The nozzles are finger tight on the adaptors only. pliers not needed.
the torque on the hold down keeps it from leaking. every one you used the pliers on is junk.
Good to know, I’ll be sure to check the manual when I put it together!!
Dad knows best, well done Dad
as always , 3306 #6 hole seems to be the death of these motors. we have one that just got rebuilt at Cat, with a similar situation. I will say those 3306s are a tough motor. good luck
Ive seen the top of the piston break off right below the bottom ring and the knocking was the skirt going up and down hitting the top part of piston
Looks like it was getting ready to have number 6 exit from the scene in a hurry lol
You MUST make special guest episodes with your father and the other fellow! Good stuff and comedy gold in a positive way!
Great episode!
Awesome! They’re funny… like kids in a candy shop
Spun rod bearing. Crank is probably toast.
Probably 😓
I have the same bore scope used in the video and have done a lot of troubleshooting with it. I’ve found that if you transfer the pictures and videos to your phone or computer they are much more clear than what shows on that screen!
I’d be inclined to think piston/wrist pin issues. If it was the crank end of the rod, you wouldn’t still have such great oil pressure.
That’s why we were so reluctant to tear the head off. Kind of crazy
Hey don't know if u guys knew this but u can't use the new kind of ATF..because it has small Particles to help new transmission to not slip..it isn't good for Injection pumps or injectors
With just the rocker cover off, it was mentioned lack of oil on some of the rockers. Not sure how they're feed, but I'm guessing they're related. 🤔
26:00 you guy obviously, for the first time, just discovered the secrets of the world!
Dude, you make some interesting content. With the possible exception of an excavator and a skid steer for my retirement property, I will never own the equipment you do. Nonetheless, I learn tons of information here. Cheers and subbed!
Thanks!! Glad you enjoy!
Those injector nozzles are pretty cheap also, just put a new set in my D6C
did it make any difference? thinking of doing same to mine.
@@Mekzuc91 absolutely
Sorry didn't replay in good time last time JL. Admire people willing to save old Iron.
Great diagnostics, eng be out before u know it looking forward to seeing if the bigends or piston pin and bushes are the problem.
They are not unreliable, acceptible opening pressure is 350 to 700 psi but your not testing in a proper way you are using them screwed onto the adapter you need an adapter that clamps the nozzle to prevent leaks it sounds like the nozzle is stuck open. It would help if you used the glow plugs to help it start, push down the start switch and rotate counterclockwise watching for the ammeter to show discharge
That engine sounds like it's about to suffer a R.U.D. (Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly)
Wrist pin, piston slap!!!!
I would pray its the wrist pin hopefully crank is OK.
Same 🤣
Either a wrist pin or maybe a bent pushrod
I swear, I thought John Candy was making a guest appearance in this video
The rod cap might be loose to give you that much movement,
but the oil pressure should drop or at least be erratic
Hopefully it’s a wrist pin and the crank and rod bearings are ok. Either way you have plenty of parts to make one or two running dozers.
Pins and needles can't wait to see the bottom and
Yeah!!
If you drain the coolant before removing the head you wont fill every hole with coolant. Just sayin. 😁
Also remove the push rods before pulling the head to avoid damaging them..
Get that old cat motor working... even 5 cylancers will get you to the shop to pop the motor 🙂😎👍👍💪
plston pin bushing ?
Yeah. You guys need to stop running that asap. I can’t finish watching the video even. Trying injectors when the cylinder is dead and knocking?! And then seeing if the diesel pump is working?! That’s a bottom end issue and you are wrecking it worse than it was with your trials. You hear metal on metal.
Although I agree with the other comments made, is it possible with the amount of movement seen that a big end bolt has failed or is undone or something to do with the conrod cap as there seems to be a huge amount of movement for just a failed bearing or extremely unlikely could the piston be failing around the wrist pin as I don't know if it was the sound quality of the video but when i've had motors with big end knock it's always sounded like a harsh metallic ringing knock this sounded a bit softer when i first heard it I thought piston hitting the flame ring (recently rebuilt 8.6 L Iveco engine went for initial start bfore re-torquing head knocked immediately, stripped checked bottom end nothing wrong so removed head found head gasket had moved (i know should have used alignment pins but thought the little tiny dowels in the block would've kept gasket in place and didn't have any pins in any case ---- made some when i found this though) about 1/8" (4mm) so piston #1 was just catching the flame ring at tdc, the bright area on your #6 piston points to it's touching the head (that'll need a good inspection now), it's just unfortunate that thebottom end can't be accessed with the engine in the machine to find out.
Connecting rod bearing
I think it is a main on this cylinder, not the injector.
Malice in the combustion palace.
Wrist Pin in piston loose
Low compression ratio no fire
yeah, thats amazing how that much play was in the number 6 piston rod ....well done...
Fuel knock
Stuck valve or valve seat carboned up.
I have a sick feeling about the crank. I hope I'm wrong.
A compression test. Valve seat has come loose
Where the video of getting the oil pan off and removal of the piston
How fast do you think we move around here 🤣
@@dieseJL slower then a rabbit, faster then a turtle 😂
Your piston is clearly hitting the head and it's not being pulled back down. You have a broken connecting rod, wrist pin or bearing cap. Pull the oil pan off and you find out immediately. Absolutely nothing a lot of money can't fix.
After hearing it I'd say bent pushrod
Pull the oil filter and cut it open
To my mind there is no way on earth that the crank is good. Will need replacing or welding and grinding.
Price a Service Exchange Engine
Then it comes with a Warranty
Make a 5 cylinder out of it
Not a horrible idea 🤔🤔
need min of 400 psi for minimal operation
Do you know what the spec is? I could not find it. Good to know though thanks!!
@@dieseJL 300-500psi is usually good enough for combustion. 300 is def on the low end and you can see why it wasn't wanting to pop off withi that much play.
More than likely there nothing wrong with the rod bearing or wrist pin. Im will to bet that #6 piston is coming apart. It should have 2 piece pistons. Anyway good luck on the ole girl
never saw a 2 piece piston in a 3306
400 to 650 psi
Big oil pump doesent matter how much oil presure loss
A lot of the time it's the injectors
Why not just cut an access hole in belly pan than weld it back or make a cover for hole??maybe if not too bad can not pull engine just make repair on one cylinder.snooky pa.
400 to 650psl
easier to take the engine out
There is now way i am working on that engine with snow on the ground.
Didn’t you see the sun shining?
I ended my deisel mechanic career after one year and went to work on the railroad. I admire your get the job done attitude. It is a tough job at times.
Luckily we do it more for fun than work 😬
So what adapter did you use to do the compression test?
We just drilled a hole in a metric bolt
Bent rod
Bet the rod bent
Rods bent
If the rod was bent and the bearings okay, they would not have been able to push that piston down like that. Its either a spun rod bearing or a wrist pin elongation in the piston to have any free movement. Not to say the rod is not bent as well however. Or.... a bolt broke or is loose holding the rod cap on.
@@Greghh1960 my comment was before head off. Seen misfire from bent rod
@@jackpinesavagerepair1918 ->Yes, I thought the same thing early on in the video. We have run into that before when someone puts to much starting fluid in on startup.
Bad injector
engine is fubar
Could be a blue hole through a piston and you’ve got a ring setting on top of the first and hitting on the valve. I had that with a 1150 case one time oil pressure but I don’t worry that way how to knock a the godly redneck sounds good luck
Wrist pin failure