I only wish I'd seen this video a week sooner - it would have saved me hours of learning in the school of hard knocks... Brian's approach (I'm not going to tell you 'how to do it' but rather 'show you where most people have trouble' is priceless. Chock full of tips and insightful pointers, this is well worth the 21+ minutes of watching. A real gem.
“Not Another Card Scraper Video” is exactly what I think as I watch each additional one these past few weeks. Yours, however, much to my surprise & joy, contains specific detail, valuable advice & unusual info that most all others have not included in recent years, making yours a “YES! - Finally! - A Highly Useful Card Scraper Video!” MANY THANKS, & very cute kid btw, prolly in pre-med school now?
Ok, this was like the 14th video I watched on card scrapers, and it never showed up in my searching, TH-cam just suggested it. You really filled in the gaps on all the other videos, Because I was on my 5th attempt to figure it out and was ready to give up. Thanks for making this.
The 45-degree option provided by the Veritas card/file guide may be intended for cabinet scrapers, like the excellent Stanley #80 /Record 80/Veritas's own equivalent (the Ferrari of cabinet scrapers :D). Stanley's instructions for the #80 are for 45-degree sharpening. The #80 comes from the factory with the card edge sharpened to 45 degrees too, at least mine did (made in England).
Thanks for your detailed and interesting video. I just made a couple of card scrapers today; using an old cheap miter saw I bought 40 years ago. It was surprisingly good steel from West Germany.
Very Helpful, Brian. I love your attitude toward teaching, and your attention to detail while still giving tons of info. Card scrapers have been a mystery to me, and I now realize that starting to figure them out on soft wood was very possibly one of my big errors!
Brian just a note to say thank you for all the videos. It has been awhile since I have watched your channel but I have spent many hours primarily watching "at the LATHE". THANK YOU.
Excellent video. I've had poor results with my card scrapers. Your video showed me what I've been doing wrong. I've been close but missed one step that I now see is critical. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
That's the best video on card scrapers that I've ever seen. You have answered a lot of questions that I had. Now, to the shop. Thanks for the time and effort.
Brian, what a thoughtful job, I did "yet another video" one on making a scraper out of a saw blade, to share what I thought was the best tool in the shop, and though I did not learn about them until I was in my 20's making guitars for someone else's company, I could not believe how fantastic they are, and how much I do not enjoy breathing DUST. Sharpening has never been a problem but you cover ALL anyone could need to know to dig in, pun intended…. fantastic, you have a new subscriber, yours came up when I watched my own…..10 out of 10!
@Larenzoid I have found no special tips for curved card scrapers. I prepare them the same way as the straight ones; it is just a little trickier to follow the curve when turning the burr. I do find that goosenecks are the most difficult, so I often make custom curved card scrapers on the sides of straight card scrapers.
Oh, one other thought....I sharpen my gooseneck with a stone cylinder in a dremel at 90 degrees to the face and burnish the same as others. This seems to be about a medium fine burr useful for most things, but not great on some things. (i use goosenecks for scraping out the inside of bowls and spoons.
well made video in all respects, love the graphics. Seems to me to maybe be the last word on scrapers. I can only add that I've noticed a diference in the steels of the various scrapers I've bought. Obviously some are .080" and some are .060", but beyond that some are harder steel than others and respond differently to the identical prep method. I have one older one that sharpens in half the strokes of others.
Yes, Veritas scrapers are sold as harder steel scrapers (i.e. steel with a higher Rockwell measure of hardness). I have a set of traditional scrapers from Crown or Clifton Sheffield, some odd ones on unknown Sheffield brand from Proops Bros. of Leicester (love that name!) and a set of harder Veritas scrapers and yet another set of hard, rectangular scrapers of different thickness from Veritas. Enough to last me several lifetimes. I love 'em all and have not yet formed any strong preference, although I would say that the traditional thickness is the way to go (i.e. medium thickness). I have yet to feel the need for thinner or thicker scrapers, the latter are tough of your thumbs. There are pros and cons to using harder steel. I believe card scrapers were traditionally made out of old saw blades/"plates" (I'm thinking the 20"-24" panel type saws, after they have been sharpened for decades). Perhaps offcuts from the saw-makers too? The old fellows never like anything to go to waste, we can learn a lot from them ;)
AHA! I see what I've been doing wrong. I have been trying to establish the initial burnished burr with the scraper vertical in the vise instead of flat on the bench. No wonder I make dust. Gonna fix that now. Well done video, informative, to the point, not wordy (think Wranglerstar). Subbed!
Great video. Your speaking an presentation was very even slow, which may seem boring for entertainment, but excellent for learning. The graphic illustrations were also very helpful.
You missed the reason for my early failures - a hard, smooth burnisher is easier (essential?) Screwdriver handles didn't work for me and it took someone at Southern Lumber to convince me to try a real burnisher.
hi that's the best way and wallpaper scraper old saws made them all that's if it the right metal is used and it save pennys plus one gets to recycle old tools.
I bought a lovely vintage, new-old-stock, scraper on ebay. Made in Sheffield, with a hard wood handle and heavy brass ferrule and smooth, refined finish - better than most high-end chisels - far too nice to be use only for scraping paint. My intention was to use it as you describe but I haven't use it yet, so reassuring to read that it can work well. :)
Good video, Brian. I have to admit I don't use my card scrapers very much, but then I've mostly been doing turning stuff lately. I'll have to try these techniques and see if I can get better results when I do use them. One question, I've got some curved scrapers and I have yet to get a good edge on those. Any tips for curved scrapers? Thanks, Larry
Hi Brian, very nice video. To do this do you need a burnishing tool or can you just use a screw driver or other round tool? Thanks again for the good info.
Either but whatever it is needs to be harder than the scraper steel, which is something to consider when using the harder Veritas scrapers. Paul Sellers reckons the generation of woodworker he trained with never had a specific tool called a burnisher, instead they just grabbed some other hard, smooth tool, such as a big screwdriver. Apparently some newer screwdrivers are not hard enough though. A 10mm HSS drill bit should work. Those very hard, oval French Arno burnishing tool look to be particularly effective for this task: www.workshopheaven.com/arno-carbur-2-solid-carbide-burnisher.html* but I was lucky to find one of the more traditional and lovely looking "Clifton 465 Hardwood Handled Burnisher" secondhand: www.workshopheaven.com/clifton-465-hardwood-handled-burnisher.html. I think the oval Veritas burnishers are likely very good too. Reviews of the "2 Cherries"-brand burnisher were no so positive. I also have 2 or 3 cheapy oval burnishers, short, made in India and sold by Proops Brothers of Leicester on ebay.co.uk - haven't used them much yet but seem like very good value; one has a slight curve up an the end, presumably for clearance of the somewhat pointed end in some uses. * I have seen cheaper "sharpening" tools that look and work a lot like the Arno burnishers, they might be a viable, cheaper alternative but I have not tried them.
Brian. If you see this....My question is how do you get the double burr?? After going to a friends shop I realized I was only putting the burr on one side.
Because the burnishing tool is held at an angle to the scraper , it does not effect the opposite edge when turning the burr, so you can simple flip the scraper over and repeat the procedure on the other side/edge.
Good point. He also mentions that a scraped surface can be too smooth to take the finishes he uses, so he sometimes sands afterwards to roughen it up a bit, to give it some "tooth". From his various video and blogs, I get the impression that he usually considers 220/240 grit to be smooth enough for most of his woodwork and going further is counterproductive because it won't take the finish as well.
Probably the best video on this subject I've seen so far.
I only wish I'd seen this video a week sooner - it would have saved me hours of learning in the school of hard knocks... Brian's approach (I'm not going to tell you 'how to do it' but rather 'show you where most people have trouble' is priceless. Chock full of tips and insightful pointers, this is well worth the 21+ minutes of watching. A real gem.
“Not Another Card Scraper Video” is exactly what I think as I watch each additional one these past few weeks. Yours, however, much to my surprise & joy, contains specific detail, valuable advice & unusual info that most all others have not included in recent years, making yours a “YES! - Finally! - A Highly Useful Card Scraper Video!” MANY THANKS, & very cute kid btw, prolly in pre-med school now?
BEST card scraper video out there, PERIOD! Thank you sir.
Ok, this was like the 14th video I watched on card scrapers, and it never showed up in my searching, TH-cam just suggested it. You really filled in the gaps on all the other videos, Because I was on my 5th attempt to figure it out and was ready to give up. Thanks for making this.
Thx for posting Brian, an excellent video on preparing and using the cardscraper👌
Best video on card scraper's I've seen, and I've seen quite a few.
Thanks very much.
Great job on this. It really covers everything a novice might encounter. I’ve been around a while, and I still got some great tips. Really good video.
The 45-degree option provided by the Veritas card/file guide may be intended for cabinet scrapers, like the excellent Stanley #80 /Record 80/Veritas's own equivalent (the Ferrari of cabinet scrapers :D). Stanley's instructions for the #80 are for 45-degree sharpening. The #80 comes from the factory with the card edge sharpened to 45 degrees too, at least mine did (made in England).
Thanks for your detailed and interesting video. I just made a couple of card scrapers today; using an old cheap miter saw I bought 40 years ago. It was surprisingly good steel from West Germany.
Very Helpful, Brian. I love your attitude toward teaching, and your attention to detail while still giving tons of info. Card scrapers have been a mystery to me, and I now realize that starting to figure them out on soft wood was very possibly one of my big errors!
Brian just a note to say thank you for all the videos. It has been awhile since I have watched your channel but I have spent many hours primarily watching "at the LATHE". THANK YOU.
Excellent video. I've had poor results with my card scrapers. Your video showed me what I've been doing wrong. I've been close but missed one step that I now see is critical. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
That's the best video on card scrapers that I've ever seen. You have answered a lot of questions that I had. Now, to the shop.
Thanks for the time and effort.
Brian, what a thoughtful job, I did "yet another video" one on making a scraper out of a saw blade, to share what I thought was the best tool in the shop, and though I did not learn about them until I was in my 20's making guitars for someone else's company, I could not believe how fantastic they are, and how much I do not enjoy breathing DUST. Sharpening has never been a problem but you cover ALL anyone could need to know to dig in, pun intended…. fantastic, you have a new subscriber, yours came up when I watched my own…..10 out of 10!
@Larenzoid
I have found no special tips for curved card scrapers. I prepare them the same way as the straight ones; it is just a little trickier to follow the curve when turning the burr. I do find that goosenecks are the most difficult, so I often make custom curved card scrapers on the sides of straight card scrapers.
Oh, one other thought....I sharpen my gooseneck with a stone cylinder in a dremel at 90 degrees to the face and burnish the same as others. This seems to be about a medium fine burr useful for most things, but not great on some things. (i use goosenecks for scraping out the inside of bowls and spoons.
Great idea Jeff, I must try that. Thank you for sharing that ;)
well made video in all respects, love the graphics. Seems to me to maybe be the last word on scrapers. I can only add that I've noticed a diference in the steels of the various scrapers I've bought. Obviously some are .080" and some are .060", but beyond that some are harder steel than others and respond differently to the identical prep method. I have one older one that sharpens in half the strokes of others.
Yes, Veritas scrapers are sold as harder steel scrapers (i.e. steel with a higher Rockwell measure of hardness). I have a set of traditional scrapers from Crown or Clifton Sheffield, some odd ones on unknown Sheffield brand from Proops Bros. of Leicester (love that name!) and a set of harder Veritas scrapers and yet another set of hard, rectangular scrapers of different thickness from Veritas. Enough to last me several lifetimes. I love 'em all and have not yet formed any strong preference, although I would say that the traditional thickness is the way to go (i.e. medium thickness). I have yet to feel the need for thinner or thicker scrapers, the latter are tough of your thumbs. There are pros and cons to using harder steel.
I believe card scrapers were traditionally made out of old saw blades/"plates" (I'm thinking the 20"-24" panel type saws, after they have been sharpened for decades). Perhaps offcuts from the saw-makers too? The old fellows never like anything to go to waste, we can learn a lot from them ;)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, this video has be very helpful.
Subbed immediately after your opening...too cute! The video was wonderful as well...😉😁👍👍
Thanks. Best card scraper info video I've seen.
AHA! I see what I've been doing wrong. I have been trying to establish the initial burnished burr with the scraper vertical in the vise instead of flat on the bench. No wonder I make dust. Gonna fix that now.
Well done video, informative, to the point, not wordy (think Wranglerstar).
Subbed!
I have a honing rod that I use for my chef knives. Will this work for forming the burr? What's the difference between this tool than a burnisher?
Great video. Your speaking an presentation was very even slow, which may seem boring for entertainment, but excellent for learning. The graphic illustrations were also very helpful.
We need more of your videos! Don't give up.
Excellent Video! Thank you.
You missed the reason for my early failures - a hard, smooth burnisher is easier (essential?) Screwdriver handles didn't work for me and it took someone at Southern Lumber to convince me to try a real burnisher.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Excellent video. Very thoughtful.
Great video, thank you
my favourite card scraper is made from a putty knife... they generally put good steel in those.
hi that's the best way and wallpaper scraper old saws made them all that's if it the right metal is used and it save pennys plus one gets to recycle old tools.
I bought a lovely vintage, new-old-stock, scraper on ebay. Made in Sheffield, with a hard wood handle and heavy brass ferrule and smooth, refined finish - better than most high-end chisels - far too nice to be use only for scraping paint. My intention was to use it as you describe but I haven't use it yet, so reassuring to read that it can work well. :)
Thanks for the great video. Nicely done!
Good video, Brian. I have to admit I don't use my card scrapers very much, but then I've mostly been doing turning stuff lately. I'll have to try these techniques and see if I can get better results when I do use them. One question, I've got some curved scrapers and I have yet to get a good edge on those. Any tips for curved scrapers?
Thanks,
Larry
Hi Brian, very nice video. To do this do you need a burnishing tool or can you just use a screw driver or other round tool? Thanks again for the good info.
Either but whatever it is needs to be harder than the scraper steel, which is something to consider when using the harder Veritas scrapers. Paul Sellers reckons the generation of woodworker he trained with never had a specific tool called a burnisher, instead they just grabbed some other hard, smooth tool, such as a big screwdriver. Apparently some newer screwdrivers are not hard enough though. A 10mm HSS drill bit should work.
Those very hard, oval French Arno burnishing tool look to be particularly effective for this task: www.workshopheaven.com/arno-carbur-2-solid-carbide-burnisher.html* but I was lucky to find one of the more traditional and lovely looking "Clifton 465 Hardwood Handled Burnisher" secondhand: www.workshopheaven.com/clifton-465-hardwood-handled-burnisher.html. I think the oval Veritas burnishers are likely very good too. Reviews of the "2 Cherries"-brand burnisher were no so positive. I also have 2 or 3 cheapy oval burnishers, short, made in India and sold by Proops Brothers of Leicester on ebay.co.uk - haven't used them much yet but seem like very good value; one has a slight curve up an the end, presumably for clearance of the somewhat pointed end in some uses.
* I have seen cheaper "sharpening" tools that look and work a lot like the Arno burnishers, they might be a viable, cheaper alternative but I have not tried them.
Great video...... thanks for sharing.
Great advice. Thanks
Very helpful video thanks for sharing.
Brian. If you see this....My question is how do you get the double burr?? After going to a friends shop I realized I was only putting the burr on one side.
Because the burnishing tool is held at an angle to the scraper , it does not effect the opposite edge when turning the burr, so you can simple flip the scraper over and repeat the procedure on the other side/edge.
Excellent. Thanks.
Well thought out and made video.
Good information
@958kris Thanks!
I gave up. After about 4 hours of grinding and filling and burnishing I threw two cards in the scrap bin. Worse than trying to sharpen a chisel.
very good video thanks!
Sanding 'regiment.' Heh heh heh.
I believe you are the best woodworker on the web. Thanks for your postings.
Thank You, I now feel like I'll be able too put my scrapers too work, and not just have them in a collection!
Thanks
Paul sellers says his bur lasts for months
Good point. He also mentions that a scraped surface can be too smooth to take the finishes he uses, so he sometimes sands afterwards to roughen it up a bit, to give it some "tooth". From his various video and blogs, I get the impression that he usually considers 220/240 grit to be smooth enough for most of his woodwork and going further is counterproductive because it won't take the finish as well.
Just use a 6mm piece of glass
tuyet