Thank you David for such a clear and informative series of videos. Taking the mystery out of simple maintenance procedures we all should know. I have just ordered my first pot of copper grease!! Which brings me to ask a question. You used it on the spark plug threads to prevent sizing up but also to enable good electrical contact. But on this video showing you checking the anode you used grease K99? on the bolt thread? To give a good electrical connection for the anode wouldn't the copper grease be the right one to use? I have an aluminium boat so you quickly become neurotic LOL ! about such things. Thank you once more.
A good point. You are right - in order to ensure a good circuit it would be better to use the copper grease on the anode bolt, but I guess the benefit depends on how much metal to metal contact you have under the anode seating - if it’s sat on paint then the only electrical contact would be through the fixing bolt.
@@luissasmith2192 if this helps. I use Tef-Gel as an anti size medium when two dissimilar metals come together in salt water!! It also is a conductor of electricity so on my anode threads that is what l use. Warning!! Sit down when you check the price. Regards the use of any form of grease on spark plug threads NGK state do not use any form of grease as it can be possible to over tighten. Modern spark plug threads have a special coating, well NGK have. Apologies for deviating from the original video content. The video covering carburettor cleaning was instrumental in me being able to strip down my own (3times!) and solving my ‘gumming ‘up issue
My Zinc anode has essentially welded to the backing plate and is proving very difficult to remove. The bolt comes out, but the anode material is fixed (almost appears as though it has expanded). I've tried to pry it out with a flathead screwdriver, drill it out, dremel it out... all to no avail. I've greased and replaced the bolt with what little (and now brutalized) zinc material is left, hoping that the zinc will degrade with more time in the salt water. Is this an unusual problem to have and do you have any suggestions for removal? Thank you!
I don’t know how often this occurs, but if it were me I’d try a little heat with a hot air gun. DO NOT USE A NAKED FLAME. If that doesn’t work then you may have to grind it off.
@@luissasmith2192 Thanks. I ended up grinding it down with a Dremel. Unfortunately I can’t get close enough to the threads without destroying them, making it impossible to spin on a new zinc. 😕
Thanks for your feedback vimel24. We've checked with David, who produced the video regarding your question and he says: The last item that was inspected in this video was the sacrificial anode (galvanic anode) whose purpose is to protect the metal of the outboard, especially the propellor, against corrosion caused by electrolysis. An explanation can be found here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode. The anode is designed to corrode over time, i.e. to be sacrificed in place of the underwater metal parts of the motor, so it occasionally needs to be replaced Hope that's helpful!
@@CruisingAssociation Thank you for the explanation. Also is there specific procedure for storing outboard over the winter months?.So when time comes I would not have problem to start. I have 5 h.p. Tohatsu
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Thanks for taking the time and doing this!!
Thank you for your feedback - the CA is pleased the video helped.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you David for such a clear and informative series of videos. Taking the mystery out of simple maintenance procedures we all should know. I have just ordered my first pot of copper grease!! Which brings me to ask a question. You used it on the spark plug threads to prevent sizing up but also to enable good electrical contact. But on this video showing you checking the anode you used grease K99? on the bolt thread? To give a good electrical connection for the anode wouldn't the copper grease be the right one to use? I have an aluminium boat so you quickly become neurotic LOL ! about such things. Thank you once more.
A good point. You are right - in order to ensure a good circuit it would be better to use the copper grease on the anode bolt, but I guess the benefit depends on how much metal to metal contact you have under the anode seating - if it’s sat on paint then the only electrical contact would be through the fixing bolt.
@@luissasmith2192 if this helps.
I use Tef-Gel as an anti size medium when two dissimilar metals come together in salt water!! It also is a conductor of electricity so on my anode threads that is what l use.
Warning!! Sit down when you check the price. Regards the use of any form of grease on spark plug threads NGK state do not use any form of grease as it can be possible to over tighten. Modern spark plug threads have a special coating, well NGK have. Apologies for deviating from the original video content.
The video covering carburettor cleaning was instrumental in me being able to strip down my own (3times!) and solving my ‘gumming ‘up issue
Hello, whats the diameter of oil plug gasket when switching gear box oil?
Can the 4 stroke engine gear oil ever contaminate fuel in carburator
I can’t think of any way that could happen.
My Zinc anode has essentially welded to the backing plate and is proving very difficult to remove. The bolt comes out, but the anode material is fixed (almost appears as though it has expanded). I've tried to pry it out with a flathead screwdriver, drill it out, dremel it out... all to no avail. I've greased and replaced the bolt with what little (and now brutalized) zinc material is left, hoping that the zinc will degrade with more time in the salt water. Is this an unusual problem to have and do you have any suggestions for removal? Thank you!
I don’t know how often this occurs, but if it were me I’d try a little heat with a hot air gun. DO NOT USE A NAKED FLAME. If that doesn’t work then you may have to grind it off.
@@luissasmith2192 Thanks. I ended up grinding it down with a Dremel. Unfortunately I can’t get close enough to the threads without destroying them, making it impossible to spin on a new zinc. 😕
Does it matter about the air bubbles you can see in the pipe when pumping through?
Probably not, just make sure you fill to the correct level.
Hi thanks for the video. I did not quite understand about last piece that you have checked. What is it ? Filter ?
Thanks for your feedback vimel24. We've checked with David, who produced the video regarding your question and he says:
The last item that was inspected in this video was the sacrificial anode (galvanic anode) whose purpose is to protect the metal of the outboard, especially the propellor, against corrosion caused by electrolysis. An explanation can be found here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode.
The anode is designed to corrode over time, i.e. to be sacrificed in place of the underwater metal parts of the motor, so it occasionally needs to be replaced
Hope that's helpful!
@@CruisingAssociation Thank you for the explanation. Also is there specific procedure for storing outboard over the winter months?.So when time comes I would not have problem to start. I have 5 h.p. Tohatsu
What if water comes out instead of oil
That’s not good, and suggests that a seal has failed.