Great Job! Thank you for the mentions as well. You ran with the idea and made it your own. If i could offer anything it would be keep the bearings lubricated with grease. Ports on side accept zert fittings. For the pins, i bent ( tweeked might be better word) my fenders slightly so when you pull the pin it springs open with no interference. I just use a 3/8" bolt with a long shoulder on my slider brackets for the stop. Works great. If you need any photos or anything else just shoot me an email. Its on my channel in the about section.
I do all my own fabrication and hotrod builds, I drive a 550hp 1927 ford coupe and a 1957 Chevy pickup on a 71 camaro chassis. I am new to this channel and really enjoyed it. Everyone being filmed were clear and easy to understand and just did an excellent job all around
Those 49 Chevy have a special place in my heart.... that pipe connection is ingenious....A SAAB...hood opens in such a manner and some Buick and Oldsmobile front wheel drive automobile... Great stuff Sir...
Fascinating! I lived in Colton, WA in the early 1980’s and there were a few local guys who were doing this to their 1950’s street rods. I never knew how they did it though so thanks for enlightening me. I have years of experience with linear bearings, use Thompson Linear Lube in the bearings and wipe the ways with WD40. One suggestion for the fender pins would be to use Triumph Spitfire hood latches or similar.
Nice Work, interesting set up, nice car 2,the fender pins will be agravating, mayby try some newer door latches, could even add latch popers, just a idea,, Godbless
@@ThrottleStopRacing if you put a door latch on where you have the pins, and the catch on the fender, of corse you would have to make support for the fender, i can draw somethin up if you want, Godbless
The ideas came from BW's Garage channel. I just follow what he did. It really is not hard. The hardest part will be putting the hood on and off for fitting.
You're lower pins need a gutter ( channel) to clear the bottom of the fender so you don't have to walk around . We also used a light spring to push the fender away from the pins . Great job kiddo 👏
I do not want to cut the bottom lip on the fender as it adds rigidity of the fender. I will always have two people to lift the hood as my wife will be the driver.
Quain Stott the owner of the South Eastern Gassers sanctioning body has a 67 Camaro with a sliding tilt front end... he used reciever rails which interlocked on the top of the firewall to "catch" the rear of the assembly and linear bearings on the slides along with a door latch under the bumper to release the assembly so there are no pins.
BW's Garage used receiver tracks and they stuck out from the firewall. I inverted the Howard bearings to reduce the stuff hanging off the firewall. I could put receiver tracks on the under side of the hood. Something to think about.
Great craftsmanship/enginering the hood to slide, with bumper, grill, and still keep the gaps, maybe one day i can start on my 49 delux, and use your great video for guidance, .what stearing box did you use? Brand, year, i will search your other videos for front frame/leaf spring how to's .i found my 49 chev for 100$ needs lots of TLC..thank you and great to see the Mrs in the shop helping, as mine also supports and helps me😊
I is great to have a wife that helps. The steering gear box is out of a 1965 C10 pickup, this is the video I did on that install th-cam.com/video/-dvnpEnyIms/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yFr3fATqXhnvPw1P Thanks for the comment.
I would brace the lower fenders & use a homemade "Dzus style" 1/2 turn spring loaded fastener to secure, or maybe there are other ready made similar to what I`m describing. I would also consider a grab point handle for easy leverage when opening or closing as well as a positive "lock open" stop in case of having the front clip open during a wind gust or someone accidentally leaning on it while you`re under it.
For now the pins will work. I may look at the problem in the future. I will be adding a stand off so the hood does not blow shut. Thanks for the comment.
What about using electric linear actuators for the pins on the lower rear fenders? If you have a dead battery or actuator failure, you could still gently pull the fender aside to raise the front end.
I really enjoyed watching this project and i think I'll do something similar on my 48 Buick! As a small suggestion would it be possible to reduce the volume of the grinding tools in your videos? I hate to mention it but those things will dang near blow out an ear drum if you're listening on headphones. 😊
Could you possibly use a hood latch system with a cable pull on the inside that released the hood latch and latched it when closed. You seem to be a pretty good engineer that could figure out the bracket ok?
@@ThrottleStopRacing it is a "clamshell" type of hood, that slides forward and then tilts forward. Especially how it slides into place at the back could have been incorporated on your car.
I found a clear acrylic hood that was a dealer part to show off the 49 Olds overhead valve Rocket engine that I'm going to use. Those are transfer punches if anyone wants to get some, they are handy for sure. I wonder if 10-24 machine screws are heavy enough to support an entire front end, maybe a weld on each end of the rail, but it looks good. Fiberglass fronts never fit well and are flimsy, but light. Now you need a tow point on the frame. Are you going to paint the car? What color if so?
That dealer item must be worth some money. When you say transfer punch are you talking about the center punch? There are 16 hardened bolts holding a 120 hood which means that each bolt is holding 7.5 pounds. I know it is not equal like that when the hood is being opened or closed. I think I am all right with the 10/24 bolts. No tow point, we expect to drive to the lanes and pits. Color, for now the plans are to strip it back to the frame and power coat it green. The body for now will receive a coat of matte clear
I had to put the pins where they are to get the right curve in the fender. The pins have gotten a number of comments and I will look for a better solution. Thanks for the comment.
Just an idea I have when I do my front end flip. I am thinking of putting the hoon pin on the inside that is vertical and drops down into a horizontal plate to pin it.
My 56 Chevy is for drag and street. Blown SBC with tube axle. Trying to think of a way for me to do the tilt by myself if nobody is available to help. I saw that linear bearing on BW's Garage when he built his 55. I think you did a great job on the tilt.😊
@@larrythompson7802 I could have done this project by myself with the wooden gantry. I built it for 200.00 in lumber. You could use a come along instead of the winch. Thanks for the compliment.
I had a Pinto with a tilt front-end and would put pool noodles or pipe insulation on the back of the fender to hold them out past the pin, that way I could tilt it by myself from the front.
I hate to point this out now, but you did account for the size of the front tires when you designed how far the hood rolls forward, right? Edit: I mean if you wanted bigger tires later do you have room to spare?
Have to keep the front tires the size they are now because of the 24 inch center of crankshaft role. I have 6 1/8 inches to the tires and that is how far back the hood can roll.
Actually the video is 35 minutes long, the longest video I have made to date, so I can understand why you think it took so long. Thanks for the comment.
This man is seriously competent. Simple explanations.
That is quite a complement, and I am now really quite sure how to respond. Thanks.
Great Job! Thank you for the mentions as well. You ran with the idea and made it your own. If i could offer anything it would be keep the bearings lubricated with grease. Ports on side accept zert fittings. For the pins, i bent ( tweeked might be better word) my fenders slightly so when you pull the pin it springs open with no interference. I just use a 3/8" bolt with a long shoulder on my slider brackets for the stop. Works great. If you need any photos or anything else just shoot me an email. Its on my channel in the about section.
Thanks. There were grease fittings included with the liner bearings but they did not fit anywhere. I have put "some" grease on the rails.
BWs Garage sent me over.
You owe him a Miller High Life.
Stay Cool!
He has a good play list on his hood and is where I got the ideas for this one. I mentioned him in the build video of the hood. Thanks for looking.
I do all my own fabrication and hotrod builds, I drive a 550hp 1927 ford coupe and a 1957 Chevy pickup on a 71 camaro chassis. I am new to this channel and really enjoyed it. Everyone being filmed were clear and easy to understand and just did an excellent job all around
I really work hard to keep the noise down for the audio part of the videos. Thanks for the comment.
Those 49 Chevy have a special place in my heart.... that pipe connection is ingenious....A SAAB...hood opens in such a manner and some Buick and Oldsmobile front wheel drive automobile... Great stuff Sir...
I love the shape of the back end.
Love your stuff young man , more please !
More is coming. Thanks
Great work! Really enjoy seeing her come together.
It is coming along, I am now thinking about what happens down the road. Thanks for the comment.
Just found your channel and glad I did! That chevy fastback is my favorite choice for a gasser. You do great work, thanks for sharing it!
Welcome. There are some really good, in my opinion, good videos on the 49
Well done. The slide system works very well. Tilting the hood will be easy with 2 people for sure.
One can do it but the pins make that hard. Have a good day.
Absolutely Beautiful
Thanks you for the comment.
Fascinating! I lived in Colton, WA in the early 1980’s and there were a few local guys who were doing this to their 1950’s street rods. I never knew how they did it though so thanks for enlightening me.
I have years of experience with linear bearings, use Thompson Linear Lube in the bearings and wipe the ways with WD40.
One suggestion for the fender pins would be to use Triumph Spitfire hood latches or similar.
I have the bearings apart now for frame welding and will add some grease fittings to the blocks.
You are giving me a lot more encouragement on finishing my 65 GTO thank you so much sir ❤
You are quite welcome, come back anytime you need encouragement to work on the GTO.
Great work ..I make this comment without viewing the entire video. The square of the two linear bearings is by equal diagonals.
Some awesome skills and fabricating going on with this project. Thanks for sharing and take care.
No problem, thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the comment.
Wow 🎉😮
GR8 vídeo clip Sir .😊
Greetings from Mexico.
Glad you liked it. I am now am international channel. Best wishes.
You did a beautiful job on that flip front end, and the car looks terrific, vey nice Gasser !!!
Thank you very much and thanks for taking the time to comment
Nice Work, interesting set up, nice car 2,the fender pins will be agravating, mayby try some newer door latches, could even add latch popers, just a idea,, Godbless
How would the door lathes work?
@@ThrottleStopRacing if you put a door latch on where you have the pins, and the catch on the fender, of corse you would have to make support for the fender, i can draw somethin up if you want, Godbless
@@78dwk If you get a chance draw something up for me. autoshop @ rochester .rr. com
@@ThrottleStopRacing ok will do Godbless
Wow, great job very talented thank you for sharing Aman
Thank you very much for the nice comment.
Half-ass customs did one on the same model chevy--came out great-e-z 1 man operation !!
I will have to look that up. I was not able to find a lot of how to videos on flipping the hood. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the ideas . Ive been looking into doing my 41 chevy coupe like this.
The ideas came from BW's Garage channel. I just follow what he did. It really is not hard. The hardest part will be putting the hood on and off for fitting.
You're lower pins need a gutter ( channel) to clear the bottom of the fender so you don't have to walk around . We also used a light spring to push the fender away from the pins . Great job kiddo 👏
I do not want to cut the bottom lip on the fender as it adds rigidity of the fender. I will always have two people to lift the hood as my wife will be the driver.
This is great. U do some fine work !
Thank you very much for the comment.
That is so awesome! Continued success with her.
Thank you for the well wishes.
I enjoy your video. Great car!
Thanks for the comment.
Pretty great to have a wife that helps.
I could not do it with out her.
Your amazing
Very cool build sir..
Thank you or the comment.
Nice work!!!
Why thank you very much.
Awesome job Glen
Thank you. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent job buddy
Thank you for the comment.
Nice work !
Thank you very much.
Looks great 😊
Thank you for the comment
Great job well thought out.
The ideas came from BW's Grage's channel I just copied him.
Quain Stott the owner of the South Eastern Gassers sanctioning body has a 67 Camaro with a sliding tilt front end... he used reciever rails which interlocked on the top of the firewall to "catch" the rear of the assembly and linear bearings on the slides along with a door latch under the bumper to release the assembly so there are no pins.
BW's Garage used receiver tracks and they stuck out from the firewall. I inverted the Howard bearings to reduce the stuff hanging off the firewall. I could put receiver tracks on the under side of the hood. Something to think about.
Great job👍
Thank you for the video
You are quite welcome, thanks for the comment.
Good work
Thank you.
Nice work
Thanks for the comment!
Great craftsmanship/enginering the hood to slide, with bumper, grill, and still keep the gaps, maybe one day i can start on my 49 delux, and use your great video for guidance, .what stearing box did you use? Brand, year, i will search your other videos for front frame/leaf spring how to's .i found my 49 chev for 100$ needs lots of TLC..thank you and great to see the Mrs in the shop helping, as mine also supports and helps me😊
I is great to have a wife that helps. The steering gear box is out of a 1965 C10 pickup, this is the video I did on that install th-cam.com/video/-dvnpEnyIms/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yFr3fATqXhnvPw1P Thanks for the comment.
I would brace the lower fenders & use a homemade "Dzus style" 1/2 turn spring loaded fastener to secure, or maybe there are other ready made similar to what I`m describing.
I would also consider a grab point handle for easy leverage when opening or closing as well as a positive "lock open" stop in case of having the front clip open during a wind gust or someone accidentally leaning on it while you`re under it.
For now the pins will work. I may look at the problem in the future. I will be adding a stand off so the hood does not blow shut. Thanks for the comment.
What about using electric linear actuators for the pins on the lower rear fenders? If you have a dead battery or actuator failure, you could still gently pull the fender aside to raise the front end.
On a show car I would be inclined to do something along that line. Foe now I will leave it as it is. Thanks for the suggestion.
Can you spring load the pins to pull out twist and lock . You only need one person then. Very nice job
I can open the hood myself, just need to walk around it once to do it. Thanks for the comment.
I really enjoyed watching this project and i think I'll do something similar on my 48 Buick! As a small suggestion would it be possible to reduce the volume of the grinding tools in your videos? I hate to mention it but those things will dang near blow out an ear drum if you're listening on headphones. 😊
That is a good suggestion , look for the implementation of the new policy on the next video.
That's awesome! Thanks.
Could you possibly use a hood latch system with a cable pull on the inside that released the hood latch and latched it when closed. You seem to be a pretty good engineer that could figure out the bracket ok?
For now I will stay with the pins. Many comments on using a latch.
Nice job! But not sure why a guy would use slider's if you put the pivot point in the right location there is no need for them.
Have a good one 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I did it because it looks cool when you roll the hood out.
@@ThrottleStopRacingThat's the best reason.
You could use spring loaded hood hinges up front and a male female something by the firewall
Thanks for the ideas and comment.
You could have saved a lot of thinking by looking at how Saab designed their sliding tilt hood back in the 70s.
If I remember right only the hood opened on the Saab?
@@ThrottleStopRacing it is a "clamshell" type of hood, that slides forward and then tilts forward. Especially how it slides into place at the back could have been incorporated on your car.
@@Kenjh71 Thanks
I found a clear acrylic hood that was a dealer part to show off the 49 Olds overhead valve Rocket engine that I'm going to use. Those are transfer punches if anyone wants to get some, they are handy for sure. I wonder if 10-24 machine screws are heavy enough to support an entire front end, maybe a weld on each end of the rail, but it looks good. Fiberglass fronts never fit well and are flimsy, but light. Now you need a tow point on the frame. Are you going to paint the car? What color if so?
That dealer item must be worth some money. When you say transfer punch are you talking about the center punch? There are 16 hardened bolts holding a 120 hood which means that each bolt is holding 7.5 pounds. I know it is not equal like that when the hood is being opened or closed. I think I am all right with the 10/24 bolts. No tow point, we expect to drive to the lanes and pits. Color, for now the plans are to strip it back to the frame and power coat it green. The body for now will receive a coat of matte clear
Not Bad ... Looks Cool But I Would Have Made A Better Pin Location So It Wont Catch And Dont Have To Pull The Fenders Out... But Good Job...
I had to put the pins where they are to get the right curve in the fender. The pins have gotten a number of comments and I will look for a better solution. Thanks for the comment.
Just an idea I have when I do my front end flip. I am thinking of putting the hoon pin on the inside that is vertical and drops down into a horizontal plate to pin it.
I had not thought of that. This is a drag car so show is not so important. Thanks for the idea.
My 56 Chevy is for drag and street. Blown SBC with tube axle. Trying to think of a way for me to do the tilt by myself if nobody is available to help. I saw that linear bearing on BW's Garage when he built his 55. I think you did a great job on the tilt.😊
@@larrythompson7802 I could have done this project by myself with the wooden gantry. I built it for 200.00 in lumber. You could use a come along instead of the winch. Thanks for the compliment.
I had a Pinto with a tilt front-end and would put pool noodles or pipe insulation on the back of the fender to hold them out past the pin, that way I could tilt it by myself from the front.
@@vincelamarche9686 I do not understand how that would work, can you explain it a little more?
I hate to point this out now, but you did account for the size of the front tires when you designed how far the hood rolls forward, right?
Edit: I mean if you wanted bigger tires later do you have room to spare?
Have to keep the front tires the size they are now because of the 24 inch center of crankshaft role. I have 6 1/8 inches to the tires and that is how far back the hood can roll.
The only thing I would have done different is to power the gasser with a 270/302 GMC 6.
No No Big Block all the way.
Took you guys 20 minutes
Actually the video is 35 minutes long, the longest video I have made to date, so I can understand why you think it took so long. Thanks for the comment.
All for not classic cars are the coolest original
I was looking for a new car last month and could not find one that applied to me.
🥸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you.
Great Job Suggestion ... why don't you use Magnetic Stops instead of Pins ...
The thought had not occurred to me.