Only thing I would like to note is the shear on the punch does not make it more sharp than a flat punch. The benefit is by reducing the cross section of the cut is you are reducting the force needed to cut by cutting less metal at any given moment in the stroke. Also.... at work all of the "disk cutters" are fixed gap and I would assume the sheared punches may move the metal if not able to be locked down. Just an assumption on my part. I would use a double shear punch if I was going to use any shear in a fixed gap tool.
Hi, That does make perfect sense. I suppose I was aware of it to some extent, but didn't know how best to articulate it in a way that is most helpful for people that just need to know the basics of disc cutters, so thank you for that. We get a lot of basic questions like "which one is best?" and "how do I use it?" and just wanted to give an overview of features to look for for people that have never encountered the tool before. We generally don't encounter the sheared punches in combination with the fixed gap tools, they are usually on the adjustable ones with the handle - but I would assume the same.
P = ltτ P = shearing force (N) l = stamping perimeter (mm) t = part thickness (mm) τ = material shear strength (MPa) 1N of force = 0.0001019716213 tons of force Shearing/concave cutting dies will reduce the required force
Hi, yes, it was softened using a butane torch. I don't know much about working with vintage tins, but I imagine they are soft enough without annealing and that the heat would just destroy them, so I wouldn't worry about the torching. We haven't tested this tool on tins, but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. I would recommend that you face the printed side downward to avoid scratches.
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Thank you for all the great info!
Amazing video
Only thing I would like to note is the shear on the punch does not make it more sharp than a flat punch. The benefit is by reducing the cross section of the cut is you are reducting the force needed to cut by cutting less metal at any given moment in the stroke.
Also.... at work all of the "disk cutters" are fixed gap and I would assume the sheared punches may move the metal if not able to be locked down. Just an assumption on my part.
I would use a double shear punch if I was going to use any shear in a fixed gap tool.
Hi,
That does make perfect sense. I suppose I was aware of it to some extent, but didn't know how best to articulate it in a way that is most helpful for people that just need to know the basics of disc cutters, so thank you for that. We get a lot of basic questions like "which one is best?" and "how do I use it?" and just wanted to give an overview of features to look for for people that have never encountered the tool before.
We generally don't encounter the sheared punches in combination with the fixed gap tools, they are usually on the adjustable ones with the handle - but I would assume the same.
If I was to get a hydraulic press to punch out 1-1.5mm copper disks, 50 and 80mm wide, how much tonnage would I need in a unit to do so?
P = ltτ
P = shearing force (N)
l = stamping perimeter (mm)
t = part thickness (mm)
τ = material shear strength (MPa)
1N of force = 0.0001019716213 tons of force
Shearing/concave cutting dies will reduce the required force
What is the process you used to soften the metal before punching it? Using a blow torch? Is this a good tool to use for vintage tins?
Hi, yes, it was softened using a butane torch. I don't know much about working with vintage tins, but I imagine they are soft enough without annealing and that the heat would just destroy them, so I wouldn't worry about the torching. We haven't tested this tool on tins, but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. I would recommend that you face the printed side downward to avoid scratches.
Brass 2.5 mm 24mm diametro ?
Hi, we do not recommend using these disc cutters on metal as thick as that, sorry.
Price kiti
Hello,
The prices of all of our products can be found on our website: www.seattlefindings.com