Great video's on the HZ Mark, 100+ hrs put into body work before paint. You make it look easy with your skills and experience. The end result with paint looks fantastic. Thanks for the the videos, great content and explanations.
Awesome job. I really enjoyed watching your technique with the spraygun. I wish I had your skill and paint booth. Watching you I think I may have been putting my base coat on too heavy. Kind regards Andrew. :-)
@BogDustForBreakfast you see alot of those C10 pick-ups in the states with crazy candy paint, air bags with the car sitting on the ground with the massive wheel tucked under some how. I enjoyed the series mate, I will be looking forward to seeing what you have next on the channel. Thanks John.
I also forgot to say thanks for the advice about the compressor, i picked up my Chicago Air hush 100 from Sydney tools yesterday and i have to say its a beast!! And so quiet. Cheers John.
When you're taking original paint off you should notice a ghost of the front planum chamber grill on the back parcel shelf. Because I guess that's where they put it when painting the car in the factory.
Love your work mate. Honest and humble. Quick question. With your dirt nibs in the base how long did you wait to scuff them out with 800? And after spotting them do you just move onto control coat? Just curious thats all. My tds states to do control coat straight after the last coat. Im just curious for when and if i get any nibs in my base thats all. Cheers
Hi mate thank you ! The base needs to be dry before you sand the nibs out . @25 degrees after a 10-15 flash is suitable . If the base is still wet you will damage the base . Once sanded out, tac cloth and apply a coat or 2 over the nib to hide scratches then do your control coat over the top before clearing. If the tds says to do it a certain way it’s best to follow that info. Most solvent basecoats can be treated the same . The only big differences is using water based paints . Which you will see me using a lot more in the upcoming videos
@@BogDustForBreakfast hi mate. is 400 a fine enough grit to finish in before spraying a metallic blue? I’m going to do a dark grey ground coat before colour just to cover any etch I’ve put on small rub throughs. Might try that 1k primer instead of etch.
Hey man. This might be a silly question but why did you mask up the window holes in the doors. Was it because you had put colour on there when you painted the inside of the doors?
Was that Atlantis Blue Met and then Clear? How much time between coats and is metallics better done with the doors on (after doing all the jams)? Also, why mask the door windows if the glass and rubber is out My friend at uni in '89 had an Atlantis Blue HZ Prem. ... after his Purr-pul and white HQ Monaro got stolen.
Owner had already painted where the rubbers go and the back of the doors . . If you’re not a experienced painter you can paint complete if you want to but not necessary for me . This was Atlantis blue . 10 min flash @25degrees 3.5 coats and 2 coats of clear with 15 min flash
32:54 "all come out pretty nice" ? That is exceptional, like glass! Brilliant work.
Haha thanks mate
First class work 🏆
Legend!
Amazing work. Great to watch this. The paint and panel work on my Premier is nice, but this is next level. I’d let you paint my car in a heartbeat.
I hope the owner is stoked. He should be. Nice. Great series. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great video's on the HZ Mark, 100+ hrs put into body work before paint.
You make it look easy with your skills and experience.
The end result with paint looks fantastic.
Thanks for the the videos, great content and explanations.
Thanks 👍
Might sound lame but that's the first time I've seen anyone lay down sika seam sealer neatly. Always learning from you
I was wetting my finger with wax and grease remover to flatten it down if that helps too👌You couldn’t see in the video though
I love seeing stuff like this too. Top notch.
I love your content mate. Your passion for the craft shines as much as your beautiful work.
Thank you kindly
Luv the colour, good job mate ... 👍
Thank you cheers
Nice work. Silver is the hardest colour to get right. Definitely have to get those sanding marks out. I know it. I did my wheels and had this issue.👍👍
Thanks mate
Outstanding 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome job. I really enjoyed watching your technique with the spraygun. I wish I had your skill and paint booth. Watching you I think I may have been putting my base coat on too heavy. Kind regards Andrew. :-)
Thanks mate she came up nice 👌
Cheers Mark another great episode, really enjoyed it, next you need to build your own project from start to finish, that would be awesome!
I will one day! Would love to do a car for myself, maybe a tonner or C10 pickup . Paint in a candy
@BogDustForBreakfast you see alot of those C10 pick-ups in the states with crazy candy paint, air bags with the car sitting on the ground with the massive wheel tucked under some how. I enjoyed the series mate, I will be looking forward to seeing what you have next on the channel. Thanks John.
I also forgot to say thanks for the advice about the compressor, i picked up my Chicago Air hush 100 from Sydney tools yesterday and i have to say its a beast!! And so quiet. Cheers John.
@@johnnym3387 awesome mate it was a great choice!
When you're taking original paint off you should notice a ghost of the front planum chamber grill on the back parcel shelf. Because I guess that's where they put it when painting the car in the factory.
Maybe they used the same panel for 2 different pieces . I’ve never heard of that before , interesting
👌👌
Love your work mate. Honest and humble. Quick question. With your dirt nibs in the base how long did you wait to scuff them out with 800? And after spotting them do you just move onto control coat? Just curious thats all. My tds states to do control coat straight after the last coat. Im just curious for when and if i get any nibs in my base thats all. Cheers
Hi mate thank you ! The base needs to be dry before you sand the nibs out . @25 degrees after a 10-15 flash is suitable . If the base is still wet you will damage the base . Once sanded out, tac cloth and apply a coat or 2 over the nib to hide scratches then do your control coat over the top before clearing. If the tds says to do it a certain way it’s best to follow that info. Most solvent basecoats can be treated the same . The only big differences is using water based paints . Which you will see me using a lot more in the upcoming videos
Nice job mate.
Thank you! Cheers!
@@BogDustForBreakfast hi mate. is 400 a fine enough grit to finish in before spraying a metallic blue? I’m going to do a dark grey ground coat before colour just to cover any etch I’ve put on small rub throughs. Might try that 1k primer instead of etch.
@@crazydave7375 400 is fine to finish in if your orbital sanding . If block sanding finish in 600-800 wet
@@BogDustForBreakfast cool thanks man.
Hey man. This might be a silly question but why did you mask up the window holes in the doors. Was it because you had put colour on there when you painted the inside of the doors?
Was that Atlantis Blue Met and then Clear?
How much time between coats and is metallics better done with the doors on (after doing all the jams)?
Also, why mask the door windows if the glass and rubber is out
My friend at uni in '89 had an Atlantis Blue HZ Prem. ... after his Purr-pul and white HQ Monaro got stolen.
Owner had already painted where the rubbers go and the back of the doors . . If you’re not a experienced painter you can paint complete if you want to but not necessary for me . This was Atlantis blue . 10 min flash @25degrees 3.5 coats and 2 coats of clear with 15 min flash
Watched it on the tv at home ,
Looked like you started with a light coat , then dust coat , then two wet coats of clear . Is that right ?
Pretty much mate . 3 coats of color and a drop coat then 2 coats of clear
When doing a large area like a bonnet or boot, it is better to do it horizontal or vertical?
Paint it as if it’s on the car . Horizontal, that way all the pearls or metallics lay the same way to the other panels around it .
Hey Mark what brand was the bonnet stand you use? Been looking for one for a bit now.
thats a good question! i got it from bayfords here in melbourne . here is a link i found for you www.ebay.com.au/itm/273454746089