Great video! My grandfather was a Swedish cabinetmaker and carpenter. I sat on his lap and he guided my hands as I learned to sharpen his chisels and planer blades. That was over 60 years ago and I can still smell his pipe smoke and remember the movements in my memory. I feel very fortunate to have grown up when and where I did.
Freehand sharpening as taught here has absolutely changed the way I work. It's just that little but easier, meaning I'm way more likely to do it early. Thank you, Paul.
Paul, if i'd have had a woodwork teacher as straightforward, genuine and easy going as you, I may have listened more and enjoyed it. glad to have found you at 48 years young
I've heard all this advice many times, but SEEING it made a huge difference. I haven't been using aaaanywhere near enough pressure while sharpening. Thank you!
I remember one of Paul's video's years ago when he bought chisel sets at Aldi. At the time there were very few of their stores in the U.S. but I located one in South Florida that had the chisels and bought half a dozen sets. They were 6 bucks a set of four chisels (1/4" - 1"). I sharpened a couple sets (Paul's way of course) and have used pretty much nothing else since. The edges don't last as long as the high end steel, but with a few strokes on the diamond plates and leather I'm right back to extremely sharp tools. So, take Paul's advise on saving money. He is the voice of experience.
Thank you! I have tried all kinds of "tricks" for sharpening and every sort of guide. Your short video cleared up all the complications I have learned over the years. ❤❤❤
Thanks to your previous videos on this method, I've been using it for chisels and plane blades for several years now - I love it. One thing that others may find useful - I added inlays to the diamond plate board (just little 1/8" strips of wood that sit proud of the board slightly, but not proud of the plates) that act as depth gauges for my honing guide. This means I can slide the plane blade or chisel blade up to the inlay and clamp on the honing guide flush to the edge of the board, and that sets my angle. Great for the event that I need to put an initial bevel angle a new tool or a restoring an damaged/old one.
This motivated me to order 3 diamond plate pack from Amazon$14. Used hot hide glue to mount, and this works well with my HSS turning tools, thanks Mr.Sellers!😊
I have the exact same set of chisels, and that is not something i can say often of the tools used in woodworking videos. I have been mad at them forever for not fitting well in my honing guides, of which I have 3. So now I will try it freehand. Thanks for showing us
I use paper towels. A big roll of blue paper towels from one of the large retailers in the UK. They work fine. If they break up it's because I've used too much liquid. A cotton rag would also work if you didn't want to use throwaway items. I've used my daughter's old baby grows in the past!
I just run tap water over mine with a light rubbing with fingers. The widow cleaner has soap (or detergent) in it so it clears from the stone readily. Then, I wipe dry (cloth towel) and let sit a while to make sure they are dry before storing. If the stone gets dry before rinsing, it may take a bit more effort to clean.
When sharpening freehand, note that the Master is not only holding the chisel in the direction of the bevel, but also angled to the side (with one side of the sharp bevel pointing forward). Even though I am a beginner, I have learned the benefits of this the hard way. I wish this video was posted two years ago or I had watched it two years ago. In many videos, they seem to tell you to use your hands as a sharpening guide. If you listen to them, a chisel sharpening mark will last forever.
You can still get the internal corners fine if you skew the chisel so the corner of the cutting edge severs the fibres. But you could grind the bevel near the edge if you want to too.
I advise people not to give up. It becomes so natural after a short while, and it's much quicker, which translates into not procrastinating when it comes to sharpening in time.
@@Paul.Sellers thanks for the encouragement. I expect that I will try again after I get a good feel for the angle after using the honing guide some more. I wish I bought it 30 years ago.
Hi Paul, appreciate your videos. I made this very sharpening set up a few years ago and I have a question. My stones which are diamond built up metal from the chisels and rust and I can’t keep them clean like yours seem to be. Shavings of the chisel seemed to stick ontothe diamonds and it’s creating a not even surface. Curious your thoughts and maybe how to prevent this.
Its easy , dont use any water or soap or oil.Plates dont need that since you are removing material slowly,they will never overheat .What you do is wipe them with a dried up plumbers silicone(not acrylic transparent one) from time to time when you sharpen.
@@d.k.1394 Plumbers dried silicone is all you need ,no oil,no detergents or any other substinence-just clean them when sharpening from time to time. I sharpen all the tools dry ,its diamonds and you will never overheat the plate to melt the nickel so lubrication is not needed at all,all it does is clogs up the plate.
I use the window cleaner spray as shown. Keep the stone wet (not just damp) until you are done sharpening. The liquid suspends the metal particles so they don't adhere to and clog the stone surface. Rinse under running tap water with light finger rubbing, or an old toothbrush, to clean. Wipe dry with cloth towel. Let sit long enough to be completely dry before storing, or they may rust. The window cleaner has soap or detergent in it so it is practically self cleaning with rinsing.
I'm glad I tried it. It just works. However the sharpening compound that I use on the leather strap is actually quite messy, it produces lots of crumbles similar to a rubber on paper. Anything wrong with adding a few drops of oil onto the strap to prevent that?
I'd like to know where a person can buy the diamond plates like that in Canada. The only ones I've seen for sale are either dirt cheap (and too coarse) or eye wateringly expensive.
Glass cleaner is preferred to water as it's less likely to leave rust on the stones. Something to do with ammonia I think but not sure exactly. The fluids purpose is just to lift the swarf from the abrasive so that it doesn't get clogged, reducing it's efficiency.
Just go to the five and dime US or Poundland UK and buy autoglass cleaner not window cleaner as in house windows. Usually, it's a dollar or two a bottle and will last 20 years or so. Also, it's wrong to call any of the fluids lubricant. Lubricant is the last thing you want when abrading a cutting edge.
Guys, as somewhat of a Sellers apprentice, I can confirm that its silly not to get started sharpening freehand right away. I bought jigs at first as I was frightened of messing up and wanted things 'just right'. The thought of being frightened of it now is just silly, really. You'll be getting great results straight away more likely than not. You'll also not think twice about sharpening up on the fly - which is fairly critical to both the flow and results of hand tool woodworking.
Dear Mr:Sellers, can I ask you a question? If buffing compound is not available what would you suggest from the following products? Car wax, stainless steel polish or brass polish
The green compound he is using is usually recommended for steel and stainless steel. Buffing compound is just a wax with an abrasive in it.i would go for one that is meant for steel or stainless steel
Its a diamond ,one of the toughest materials on earth it has melting point of 3500C°-how fast do you sharpen by hand to achieve that? Nickel that is used to bond material has melting point of 1453C° so what are you exactly doing on that plate that needs lubrication to cool it off by hand? Dont use any lubricant when working with diamond plates.Its not needed at all and it will clog the plates faster. Buy a plumbers silicone (transparent),open tube and let it dry -clean the plate with it as you sharpen.You can use a vaacum cleaner after you are done for finest particles. IF you want to be extra fancy you can make a mold out of cardboard in a square shape and pour silicone in ,that way you dont need a whole tube of silicone waisted.
Ofcourse it's not for cooling. It's for keeping the stones clean & getting rid of the swarf. Works fine. There's other ways to do this, but this trick kept my stones in good nick for the last 5 years.
Great video!
My grandfather was a Swedish cabinetmaker and carpenter. I sat on his lap and he guided my hands as I learned to sharpen his chisels and planer blades. That was over 60 years ago and I can still smell his pipe smoke and remember the movements in my memory.
I feel very fortunate to have grown up when and where I did.
Freehand sharpening as taught here has absolutely changed the way I work. It's just that little but easier, meaning I'm way more likely to do it early. Thank you, Paul.
Ahh, that is so nice!
Paul, if i'd have had a woodwork teacher as straightforward, genuine and easy going as you, I may have listened more and enjoyed it. glad to have found you at 48 years young
I've heard all this advice many times, but SEEING it made a huge difference. I haven't been using aaaanywhere near enough pressure while sharpening. Thank you!
Look at that; I mentioned you and this system in a group not 24hrs ago and here you are...
Merry Christmas, Paul.
I remember one of Paul's video's years ago when he bought chisel sets at Aldi. At the time there were very few of their stores in the U.S. but I located one in South Florida that had the chisels and bought half a dozen sets. They were 6 bucks a set of four chisels (1/4" - 1"). I sharpened a couple sets (Paul's way of course) and have used pretty much nothing else since. The edges don't last as long as the high end steel, but with a few strokes on the diamond plates and leather I'm right back to extremely sharp tools. So, take Paul's advise on saving money. He is the voice of experience.
Thank you! I have tried all kinds of "tricks" for sharpening and every sort of guide. Your short video cleared up all the complications I have learned over the years. ❤❤❤
Paul, thank you for teaching me so many things and being an all around great guy. Merry Christmas from Germany.
Thanks Paul for revisiting these things, always been an advocate for the honing guide but I'll give freehand a try next go around
Thanks for the lesson, Paul! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks a lot for all your lessons, awesome as usual
I made one of these from one of your older videos and I've gotten good at freehand sharpening thanks to you.
Thanks to your previous videos on this method, I've been using it for chisels and plane blades for several years now - I love it. One thing that others may find useful - I added inlays to the diamond plate board (just little 1/8" strips of wood that sit proud of the board slightly, but not proud of the plates) that act as depth gauges for my honing guide. This means I can slide the plane blade or chisel blade up to the inlay and clamp on the honing guide flush to the edge of the board, and that sets my angle. Great for the event that I need to put an initial bevel angle a new tool or a restoring an damaged/old one.
Nice seeing you Sir. Great but simple explanation, no fancy stuff. Thanks :)
This motivated me to order 3 diamond plate pack from Amazon$14. Used hot hide glue to mount, and this works well with my HSS turning tools, thanks Mr.Sellers!😊
Thanks Paul, simple, practical, tried and tested advice as always, and thanks for cutting through all the nonsense on this subject !
Very informative, thanks for this!
Great video! Thanks Paul!!!
I have the exact same set of chisels, and that is not something i can say often of the tools used in woodworking videos. I have been mad at them forever for not fitting well in my honing guides, of which I have 3. So now I will try it freehand. Thanks for showing us
Great advice. Thanks Paul.
Thanks Paul
It's all about experience
Brilliant! Thank you Paul
When done do you wash the stones or just wipe with paper towels?
Not paper towel they break up too quick with the windows cleaner
I use hot water and rough plastic brush.n detergent somtimes.
I use paper towels. A big roll of blue paper towels from one of the large retailers in the UK. They work fine. If they break up it's because I've used too much liquid. A cotton rag would also work if you didn't want to use throwaway items. I've used my daughter's old baby grows in the past!
Great to know thanks v much
I just run tap water over mine with a light rubbing with fingers. The widow cleaner has soap (or detergent) in it so it clears from the stone readily. Then, I wipe dry (cloth towel) and let sit a while to make sure they are dry before storing. If the stone gets dry before rinsing, it may take a bit more effort to clean.
I was pleasantly surprised how long those cheap blue-handled Stanley chisels hold a sharp edge!
When sharpening freehand, note that the Master is not only holding the chisel in the direction of the bevel, but also angled to the side (with one side of the sharp bevel pointing forward). Even though I am a beginner, I have learned the benefits of this the hard way. I wish this video was posted two years ago or I had watched it two years ago. In many videos, they seem to tell you to use your hands as a sharpening guide. If you listen to them, a chisel sharpening mark will last forever.
Damn do I love this dude ❤️
With those chisels that have veey high sides almost similar to a firmer chisel, how would you go about modifying them for something like dovetails?
Buy dovetail chisels
I wouldn't bother, just skew the chisel to clean up what is left in the corners.
..and use a knife to get the last fibers out.
You can still get the internal corners fine if you skew the chisel so the corner of the cutting edge severs the fibres. But you could grind the bevel near the edge if you want to too.
Grazie Paul!💥💥🔝
Tried free hand for decades and always got inconsistent results. The honing guide made the difference I needed to have sharp edges.
what ever works for you, free hand is probably quicker if you can do it, if not, use a guide.
I advise people not to give up. It becomes so natural after a short while, and it's much quicker, which translates into not procrastinating when it comes to sharpening in time.
@@Paul.Sellers thanks for the encouragement. I expect that I will try again after I get a good feel for the angle after using the honing guide some more. I wish I bought it 30 years ago.
Thanks, happy holidays and 2025 🍻
Hi Paul, appreciate your videos. I made this very sharpening set up a few years ago and I have a question. My stones which are diamond built up metal from the chisels and rust and I can’t keep them clean like yours seem to be. Shavings of the chisel seemed to stick ontothe diamonds and it’s creating a not even surface. Curious your thoughts and maybe how to prevent this.
If they’re the ez lap ones their website suggested scrubbing with a toothbrush and some Comet.
@@MOOPScomet???
Its easy , dont use any water or soap or oil.Plates dont need that since you are removing material slowly,they will never overheat .What you do is wipe them with a dried up plumbers silicone(not acrylic transparent one) from time to time when you sharpen.
@@d.k.1394 Plumbers dried silicone is all you need ,no oil,no detergents or any other substinence-just clean them when sharpening from time to time.
I sharpen all the tools dry ,its diamonds and you will never overheat the plate to melt the nickel so lubrication is not needed at all,all it does is clogs up the plate.
I use the window cleaner spray as shown. Keep the stone wet (not just damp) until you are done sharpening. The liquid suspends the metal particles so they don't adhere to and clog the stone surface. Rinse under running tap water with light finger rubbing, or an old toothbrush, to clean. Wipe dry with cloth towel. Let sit long enough to be completely dry before storing, or they may rust. The window cleaner has soap or detergent in it so it is practically self cleaning with rinsing.
Thanks @paulsellars please can you provide details of the sharpening plates you use/recommend?
his last video covered that
wake up babe, new Paul Seller's sharpening video just dropped
I'm glad I tried it. It just works.
However the sharpening compound that I use on the leather strap is actually quite messy, it produces lots of crumbles similar to a rubber on paper. Anything wrong with adding a few drops of oil onto the strap to prevent that?
I don’t know if you should or not. But I put a little 3 in 1 oil on mine
Muito bom. Obrigado pela informação.
I feel like its important to note that you dont need to have a dead flat back on a chisel, but you do still need enough area to index.
What he didn't say is, a hollow back is OK, a flat back is OK, a convex back is not.
I'd like to know where a person can buy the diamond plates like that in Canada. The only ones I've seen for sale are either dirt cheap (and too coarse) or eye wateringly expensive.
They are dirt cheap. A few dollars, usually.
What grit is the buffing compound?
10,000 but don't get hung up on that. Get buffing compound intended for steel or stainless steel.
What lubricant is he using? Won’t harm the abrasion?
Glass cleaner is preferred to water as it's less likely to leave rust on the stones. Something to do with ammonia I think but not sure exactly. The fluids purpose is just to lift the swarf from the abrasive so that it doesn't get clogged, reducing it's efficiency.
@ with ammonia or without?
@@robertmunguia250 with
Just go to the five and dime US or Poundland UK and buy autoglass cleaner not window cleaner as in house windows. Usually, it's a dollar or two a bottle and will last 20 years or so. Also, it's wrong to call any of the fluids lubricant. Lubricant is the last thing you want when abrading a cutting edge.
@ ok auto glass cleaner with ammonia? Or without?
Guys, as somewhat of a Sellers apprentice, I can confirm that its silly not to get started sharpening freehand right away. I bought jigs at first as I was frightened of messing up and wanted things 'just right'. The thought of being frightened of it now is just silly, really. You'll be getting great results straight away more likely than not. You'll also not think twice about sharpening up on the fly - which is fairly critical to both the flow and results of hand tool woodworking.
It's so easy once you know how to do it...
...and a disaster when you don't.
How to join this channel for some exclusive videos.
Love
Free handed since my dad taught me 60 years ago no strop then just the sole of his shoe 😉
Dear Mr:Sellers, can I ask you a question? If buffing compound is not available what would you suggest from the following products?
Car wax, stainless steel polish or brass polish
Im using polish thats ment to polish carlights
The green compound he is using is usually recommended for steel and stainless steel. Buffing compound is just a wax with an abrasive in it.i would go for one that is meant for steel or stainless steel
Persevere in looking. This stuff is commonly used in any metalworking. It's out there on every continent.
@@Paul.Sellers Dear sir, thanks for being kind to reply me.
I will add i am aussie and my hands sweat in 30 degrees Celsius so plastic is a no go for me for handles
👍⭐️⭐️⭐️👏
Hello! Why are you using these plate numbers? why not 1200, 600, 300, 150?
Thanks for the answer!
Its a diamond ,one of the toughest materials on earth it has melting point of 3500C°-how fast do you sharpen by hand to achieve that?
Nickel that is used to bond material has melting point of 1453C° so what are you exactly doing on that plate that needs lubrication to cool it off by hand?
Dont use any lubricant when working with diamond plates.Its not needed at all and it will clog the plates faster.
Buy a plumbers silicone (transparent),open tube and let it dry -clean the plate with it as you sharpen.You can use a vaacum cleaner after you are done for finest particles.
IF you want to be extra fancy you can make a mold out of cardboard in a square shape and pour silicone in ,that way you dont need a whole tube of silicone waisted.
Ofcourse it's not for cooling. It's for keeping the stones clean & getting rid of the swarf. Works fine. There's other ways to do this, but this trick kept my stones in good nick for the last 5 years.
Naah! Just autoglass cleaner.
What, you won't say "Japan" ? The hollow is called the "ura"