@@eddiehuff7366 My dad is an old hot rodder and the one thing he always said was "every little bit adds up". He knew a lot of tricks with small block Chevy's. He preferred a good 305/327 over 350 like most. He liked all the sbc's except the 307. Don't mention the 307. All that said his favorite car was a 1968 roadrunner he had with 383 and four speed. His fastest was a 1971 mach 1 with a wicked 351 Cleveland and 4 speed. lmao!
"Dayna's" 60's are good fer muddin' I guess... wink wink nudge nudge ………….. @Curtis Bryant! ha ha ha NO! no no no LMAO!!!!!!! your kiln' me^___^ AAAAHHHHHh never heard that one!!!! good show!.... I mean good hole^___^
I've never been into the slant 6 but following this build has definitely made me excited for them. Love the logic behind the entire build. Looking forward to seeing the at-track tuning sessions.
My first car was a 65 Baracuda with the 225 slant 6, and three-speed. I did a little street racing (lol) and running skinny bias tires it would spin for a while then hook. I outran a Caprice with a 327 before school one day. Everyone thought I had a 383, I never let anyone look under the hood...... The slant 6 was fun.......
I had opened the bonnet with pleasure. Getting hit by a slant six should be the height of humiliation. In Sweden, they were very common in the police's Plymouth Valiant, and they could last a very long time.
I had a 71 Plymouth Satellite station wagon with the 225 slanter and automatic. Not sure on gear ratio. Car was bone stock. That heavy B-Body wagon would still chirp the tires on dry pavement. The pre smog slant six in stock form was an awesome runner. As the 70s went on they got doggier. They were total dogs in stock form in the 1980s.
old school is definitely the best school, IF we're lucky we might even see him playing with weights and springs in a distributor, vacuum advance limiters etc. choice of carb and jetting is a given, mechanical timing start point with how+when (RPM) it advances will be key to this fun-bucket too.
@@tpelton Uncle Tony is one of the old timer racers that tweaked, filed, ground, etc. until he got a little bit extra out of things that others would just bolt on. He knows his stuff.
I had a 61 falcon with the 144..swapped in a 170 from a mustang. Spent all summer as a young buck working on that car. It would hang with a stock 5.0...I know nothing crazy but I was always proud to pop the hood and show them they got beat by a 60's inline six with a ported head and homemade 4 barrel intake. Oh and ya, I was still running 3 on a tree!
Just wana say how much I and now my son enjoy your channel.. It brings back great memories of my father and I in our garage working on my old Camaro..RIP. you and my father share the same beliefs about keeping it simple and he hated newer cars... He would often say all you need to make a motor run as fuel fire timing and Air... Anyways sincerely thanks. I hope you and Uncle Kathy keep making great Vids.. I'm currently restoring a 89 Chevy S10 cameo... If you research it, they only made 37 of them..
Baiden Fancypants The thing is a lot of what makes the LS so good is that many of the hot rod tricks are used. Mostly having really good heads and a good roller cam.
Today the engineers do all the internal performance tricks. Nobody hardly does any true performance work these days except old school guys like Uncle Tony and others like him. These days 'performance' is all bolt on parts and plug it into a computer.
Baiden Fancypants. It is applied by some LS guys, It's why some look like they are running the same turbo's, fuel systems, etc. etc. but are faster and quicker than the rest of the LS crowd that shows up on race day.
I always find it interesting when you discuss some tricks to free up HP and they contradict the popular hot rod thing to do. I.e., the single roller timing chain you mention. I know it's relative to the level of build a person is doing. My point is that I agree with you that it isn't always a one size fits all scenario, which is what you're stating - I think anyway. And that hotrodders need to understand that it's ok to veer off course from the common practice folks, sometimes. Always enjoy that about your videos, UT.
Well Stated.. and I Understood it as the more chain and teeth, equals Less power due to, more to spin.. and yes I have one waiting to be installed on my swapped 318.. a double roller chain.. to me it means I don't have to miss with it again haha.. daily driver 68 Dodge Dart everyday and Everywhere.. peace
Longevity matters. He can get by with small stuff because its low powered, minimal weight. When you start making torque and moving heavy stuff in a hurry, you will find the light parts break. I found all the weak spots between the flexplate/flywheel and the contact patch running my 3900lb empty, 4150lbs with me in it, '70 GTO in the 12s with a 2.93 gear. Stock converter, no nitrous, 8:1 compression 455 grunt power from idle to 5800. With 275 65 15 street radials it would smoke them from idle for the entire 660. No need to get them spinning first, just whack the throttle from idle. That thing broke an M20 4 speed, Th350s like they were made of hard candy, Th400s had hard parts breaking, and a 2004R lasted about a year behind that engine. Cast pistons, smogger heads from '75, cast rods, small hydraulic cam about the same size as a factory grind, stock intake, and Qjets. It was a 455 with 400 heads, dirt cheap 1 5/8" headers, and an HEI stuck in it. I threw that engine together in 1996, its still alive in my '65 LeMans. You put that much torque to moving that much weight, you find what isn't up to the task real quick. The slant 6 doesn't have that power, its going in a light car, no need for all the heavy parts. Putting a Dana 60 in it would probably slow the car by a full second, no reason to do it though. It won't break the 7.25 rear even on nitrous.
Just under 2100 pounds wow. Most of my VW rabbits (I never weighed em) said about 1800 on the title. All that space and only 300 pounds more , that's totally awesome. I think I've found a new motto: Swiss cheese everything.
@@moparman5268 Haha heck yea man. My(76yo) pops got a motorcycle recently , and he's getting into the weight reduction thing on it. He got rid of the passenger seat and it's replaced with carbon fiber , but you put the original seat bracket on it to attach it. Big ol chunk of aluminum ....we Swiss cheesed that sucker and saved 4oz ... haha really I'm not sure what we saved but every piece we replace we keep a tally of the weight. The bike weighs like 230 pounds stock and we've knocked about 10 pounds off by just goofing around. Now there's all kinds of aftermarket carbon fiber goodies , and aluminum and titanium bolts available (kind of takes away from the diy part ) 1800 pounds on my rabbit , I'm sure if I got serious , 300 pounds wouldnt be too hard to achieve. Probably can take 75-85 pounds out by just having a driver's seat and a dash. I could ditch the dash but I like the look and it's not too heavy.
You got me thinking (rare) and I started looking through my old magazines about some guy that took his '73 Satelite with a 318 2 barrel carb and got it into the low 14s. Remember that article in Cars Illustrated?
That's LiT! ..there was no reason for the 318 to exist, after the 360 dropped. And yet..Chrysler kept it around. & ppl kept buying cars with it. even when the Magnums showed up..surely then, Mopar would just settle on the one mill, the 360 aka 5.9L. But nope! lol. All due respect to the 360! the 318 was just such a sweetheart of an engine..adorable, tough, reliable and it took yeeaarrs after it was really needed anymore to sing her production swan song.
Tony I love how you explain how things work. Your a very intelligent man. I cant wait to see the leaning tower or power fly. Or it would be cool to see it in a slingshot dragster
I'm grabbing my popcorn in anticipation of watching UT do a 3 angle valve and seat grind with the bluing ink and then doing the lapping compound dance with the suction cup stick. I had my valves so tight gasoline poured into the ports wouldn't creep between the seat and the valves.
I wish you were closer to southern Ohio. I'd love to lend a free set of wrenching hands on one of your projects and soak up some of that Uncle Tony knowledge.
I like the way you think about engines when I was young the most important thing a racer taught me was what are you trying to accomplish why do you need these special parts when stock will do you brought me back to a funner time of my life when all these tricks made a difference🤔😎
You will probably kick some ass with the straight six you know how to get alot of something from nothing and make it fly. The way u made the 318 launch in bottle rocket was insane
Stick to it Tony. We're excited can wait until you take it thing to the track. Whatever the outcome we're cheering you on, keep pushing that slant 6 Make it happen.
yeah..where did i hear about that. & yeah..didn't they just source them from wrecks at the salvage yrd? narrow & freshen and plop the fab rears in their tractors :)
All right UC! Fun, interesting channel. For the millions of us who've owned and operated cars with slant-6s and have had our hands in these-great stuff. Interesting build. Go Tony!
110 degree lobe separation, advanced 4 degrees gives an intake centerline of 106 degrees. Theoretical maximum horsepower is with the intake centerline at 106 degrees and the theoretical maximum torque is with the intake centerline at 102 degrees, regardless of lobe separation (THEORETICALLY). It's good to see Uncle Tony has stopped smoking.
Wow, I would’ve never figured to forget about a 60ft. time. 330. Makes sense but, I wouldn’t have thought that up on my own. This is why everybody into cars, Mopar or not should watch UTG! Experience. No substitute for that. Thanks again sharing this know-how!
yup that's just the launchpad where you're breaking stuff, straight line 1/8 mile I'd launch my little 620 (Datsun longbed P/U) in 2nd to get to the real pulling quicker.
I'm definitely not a slant6 guy, or even straight 6. I love all engines in general, but I love old school small block chevys. With that being said, I'm still really excited to see this thing come together.
Once again uncle Tony has saved me a headache and money ! Would of never thought about the clearance between the spring retailer to the valve guide housing + 340 valve springs
I might still have one of those steel head gaskets from Direct Connection (no copper coating,) on the wall somewhere at my Ma's place back in New England, still in package, if those are of appeal. Ordered for a mid-Seventies 225, didn't end up needing it, so if it's still there, it's untouched since the 80's. :) (Also, as an addendum, I finally remembered just now to ask my sister if it's actually still there. :) )
Tighten up the rear gear lash as tight as you can get without rubbing. But shim the spider gears crazy tight first. This removes slack that will cause rear end failures. Do so evenly on the side and spider gears and check their contact pattern. Warning this changes diff width and preload.
@@UncleTonysGarage Have you tried the new synthetic 0w20 motor oil in rear ends? It's almost as thin as water but sticky like STP, and no friction modifiers....
If you are running headers. Please create a tuning tube to insert at the collector flange. It will have a gentle taper to a 10 to 12" long straight section that is one pipe sized bigger than the primary tube diameter. This will accelerate the exhaust coming out of the collector. Lower the residual pressure in the primaries and block reversion pulses coming back up the mid pipe as they cannot get thru the constant higher speed flow coming they the tuning tube. Any that do get reflected go around the tuning tube and deadhead in the tapered area and create additional siphon suction on the tuning output flow. Please monitor the A/F ratio as the tuning tube will lean out the carb setting needs. Expect a completely different sound from the car too.
Well that was a mouth full of numbers . Unless your a machinist then it's the fun things you would rather do than work . Love the thinking but what's the loss on the gear drive set up ? Love the build good job you two .
I replaced an axle shaft in a Dana 60 in a 1968 GTX. The damaged axle shaft I removed (bent flange) was machined narrower between the outer bearing and the inner spline to lighten it, but the replacement axle shaft from Mopar was full thickness and weight its entire length. I think maybe there was an effort to reduce the (shipping?) weight of new cars, or it was just cheaper to not do the additional machining to the replacement axle shaft.
Using the stock 6-cylinder 3 speed? I know it's light because I lowered them onto my stomach many times because they blew up quite easily and I had to change them. It didn't have much for bearings.
I am or was a slant 6 nut. I often rewatch your videos, especially on the slant 6. When you mentioned the single roller timing chain for less parasitic loss, I remember reading back in the 90s in " slant 6 news " that some of the guys were cutting off every other impeller from the water pump. Love the free horsepower/ parasitic loss stuff. Best part is, it applies to everything.
I think you mean if you swap a 2.71 ratio 7 1/4 rear with a 2.71 ratio 8 3/4 rear you will lose acceleration from the heavy parts eating up the power. If it was a 3.91 ratio I would swap it in, great for street romping. And it could take a lot more power too.
blasphemy? a rear end from a Dodge/Mustubishi pickup might make for a nice gear, being they were built for 2500cc 4 banger power. a couple to choose from with RWD+4WD's they'd built. maybe get a look Tony? not "real Mopar" but....?
Hey man I think that cam will work out pretty good for you I think its gunna be just enough to start pulling and hold till redline... with the way you ported those heads and the compression you'll be running it should pull hard from 3000-3500 to redline I highly doubt it will nose off up top
Really appreciate your show for your willingness to share practical insights, have always liked the uniqueness of the slant 6. Do you know where the engineers came up with original desired displacements i.e. bore vs. stroke? They all seem to only increase looking at them historically to something very different, regardless of company. Thanks again
you could go "the Hank Hill" with that thing too... "propane and propane accessories". one shop I worked in was all about that, propane has become more expensive now so it's not good for a DD but.....
i look forward to these videos. not a mopar guy. i own a 350chevy truck a stock model A and a early mustang big block budget 4 link project. just love the facts and tips sprinkled in. and you make this mopar stuff interesting. BEAT CHANNEL ON YOU TUBE.
All credit & respect to Tony! ..I'm wondering how close this all is to the original slant six hyper pak cars, though? Good ideas always come back around. On that..FCA, rumor has it..has an inline 6 in the works. :D
Hey tony I agree with the 71/4 rear and 3 speed trans on my hotrodded slant when i was a kid. I never broke anything and pushed it many times. I also never got to put a 4 speed in it ( couldnt find a bellhousing for the 4 speed) 3 speed is very light compared to a 4 speed. I have a 67 dart today with a salnt in it and just did the 4 speed conversion with a bell from a 65 baracuda with a slant 6, mine had a racer brown can with 450 lift and 268 duration. Im curious how this cam your going to use will do ..... I might go with something similar. I love your videos on this engine and hope you continue...........Phil
@@johnwilburn I already did! I just wanted to get Uncle Tony to take a look and get some thoughts/advice as I'm still working out the kinks...most notably the Quadrajet gremlins!
@@idolworkshop Quadrajet was supplanted by the much better performing Carter Thermo-Quad..ofc you know. QJ has too small of a bowl..TQ has two biggies..QJ over heats like all aluminum carbs..TQ has a phenolic resin body inhibiting heat issues and making no small amount of extra hp via denser air & fuel. dont like the TQ? Grab a brand new Street Demon..it is a modern, simplified TQ &..although sucks they don't make any at 850cfrm or larger, seems to be a lit carb.
The 1967 318 LA engine was only available with the A904 automatic transmission and came with the 7.25" rear. The 1967 318 LA engine was 66 pounds lighter than the 1966 318 A poly engine and that lightweight theme was carried on with the 7.25" as the 1966 318 came with the 8.75" rear. I had a 1967 Cornet with a 318, A904 and 7.25", a 1968 Cornet with a 273, 3-speed manual (318 was still auto only) and came with an 8.75" rear. I had a 1969 Charger SE with a 318, A727 and the then new 8.25" rear. I think the A727 transmission might have part of a trailer towing package. I have seen other 318's in trucks and vans with the A727, but most 318 cars got A904 transmissions. The 318-3 heavy duty truck engine had a steel crankshaft machined for a manual transmission and 1970's overdrive A833 4-speed transmissions became available with slant six's and 318's, but before then, no manuals for 318 cars and the slant six wasn't available with a 4-speed transmission.
Is there a possibility that you may spray the slant 6? Nothing crazy just a 75 shot with a 2 foot long supply hose from the nitrous solenoid to soften the hit.
Not in the cards for this. Goal is to get as much as we can from a N/A Slant. Also, going any quicker than what we are hoping for would require a roll bar as well as a few other safety items, and this would add too much weight to the overall package to run with our suspension, trans and rear
Tony just wondering if you have heard about the australia 265 hemi 6 cylinder engine . And would you ever build one or use one in one of your valiants . And thanks for all your information and secrets
@@UncleTonysGarage ok tony if i find one ill keep it aside and ship one over to you . Im sure will enjoy building one .they made very good power and torque with not much work needed they produced more power then the 360
No, we're using a stock configuration Offenhauser with 600 Eddie. The three different length runners help spread the torque curve. The one we're going to use here is already in service on another engine and performs nicely
Uncle Tony's Garage yea but whats the afrs on each cylinder wouldn’t it be better to feed every piston the same air at the same velocity and volume instead of starving the 1st and 6th cylinder? I’d assume with for example 3 webber side drafts with a medium length intake runner would out preform the multi lengths single carb with more engine efficiency and better power delivery and it would probably sound pretty good
That cam has a pretty long duration for for a 225 inline 6 with that much lift, so the power may come in later, it looks like it has 4 degrees of advance on ground into the cam which is good, but advancing the cam a few more degrees may help, but if the head can support the extra rpm, just send it. It’s gonna fly either way!
Ah yes, the Chrysler 7 1/4 rear axle....I shattered two power shifting the 273 I installed in my '63 Valiant, way back in 1968. She could blow away 350 Novas any day, though.
Hey uncle tony, thank you for teaching me a lot about my slant six, i was wondering how much you can shave off the deck and head before you have to change or alter the push rods? Im using a .440 lift comp cam with mopar forged springs rated for a little over .500 lift (if that helps)
I never knew that, but I love it. I’ve seen 8 3/4” in both ends of a snow cat before. Wonder what ratio those Cub Cadets have. I’ve got to find one now.
@@johnwilburn Not sure of the ratio I rebuilt a cub 124 my dad gave me and I ran across the gear thing in the shop manual. tuff little machines I still use it to push snow.
@@blackscotydog if you could get traction those little monsters would walk straight up a wall, neighbor had with wheel weights and a 4' snow blade on it, also great for towing a big gravel drag.
If you're gonna be bracket racing this consistency is key. In the 90s there was a guy bracket racing an Alliance of all things at Great Lakes in Union Grove, WI. He was extremely consistent. Quite often faster cars lost to him because they went too fast. With his handicap he'd be so far down the track the other guy would blow out of his bracket because he was worried about catching him.
How did you get the car so light?? Love to hear the specifics!! My last 68 Dart (450/727/7.25) went across the scale with me, a tank of gas, (and admittedly some tools and slicks in the trunk) at over 3600!!! Sounds like you did some Addison Silver Bullet style work to it!!
Uncle Tony, if the powerband your looking at starts at 3000RPM, what gear will you be using in the rear end? Will this car be running 1/4 mile or 1/8th. Pure stock muscle car guys have figured out how to hook on bias ply tires without blowing them off from the green so in theory you should be able to launch the dart without breaking the rear end yet come on mid track with authority.
Im probably not the first to ask this question but did ever consider the Australian 265 hemi six cylinder with a good cam and a set of triple webber's they where good for 300 hp and like to rev and have heaps low down torque to. I know they would be a foreign engine over there but chi make performance cylinder heads for them and and camshafts aren't hard to sorce either the buttom ends are tough as they get with a push rod six and share alot of over Chrysler components
Hey Uncle,Tony, what effect will flywheel weight have on your plan? Can't wait to see this run. Do you have any plans to do any time on the dyno? Thanks again for your videos.
I have a slant 6 in a yale forklift, put new water pump on it a new radiator and it still over heating and blowing violent out of the overflow. What else would cause this to happen
Well I guessed pretty close about the cam specs a few videos...I'm kinda surprised by the total lift. Based on what I saw the flow stalls out at relatively low lift in that head, but by running a high lift you're in the highest flowing area longer without resorting to a custom "cheater" cam that dwells a few degrees at a lower peak lift. Are you going to run it +4 or straight up? It's going to be cool to see how it performs, everyone knows what to expect from a V8 of the same vintage...but I've never seen a built straight six, Slant or otherwise from this era.
i wanna see what it will do with a custom splayed port aluminum head. i know it's not an everyman item but, in the future it would be cool what you can squeeze out of it N/A with some real air flow. EDIT: then also with forced induction with said fancey head.
Hay Big T. I think you said about 2000+ lbs. I assume that's a '67--'76 body style. What would your best guess be for how light you could make an earlier A-body? Do you think the later '63-'66 Valiant could be made lighter than a '60-'62 Chicken Winga?
All of his experience in nitro and street racing and everything else has lead to this. The most thought out slant six dart ever.
Anyone can buy speed ...
Building it yourself is where the fun is at
@@cardboardboxification exactly, work with what you got
I love the way Tony is min/maxing this build from the inside out. He's stealing horsepower 1/4 horsepower at a time...but it adds up.
@@eddiehuff7366 that's what I like about him, he'll modify motors,whatever it is,even motors people wouldn't even think of modding
@@eddiehuff7366 My dad is an old hot rodder and the one thing he always said was "every little bit adds up". He knew a lot of tricks with small block Chevy's. He preferred a good 305/327 over 350 like most. He liked all the sbc's except the 307. Don't mention the 307. All that said his favorite car was a 1968 roadrunner he had with 383 and four speed. His fastest was a 1971 mach 1 with a wicked 351 Cleveland and 4 speed. lmao!
I always like to start at the rear end
ha ha You must have never heard the old saying then... Shit, it only goes from bad to worst. ha ha
I married my wife for her rear end
I'm just not into poker...
I hope that didn't leave your payment in arrears.
"Dayna's" 60's are good fer muddin' I guess... wink wink nudge nudge ………….. @Curtis Bryant! ha ha ha NO! no no no LMAO!!!!!!! your kiln' me^___^ AAAAHHHHHh never heard that one!!!! good show!.... I mean good hole^___^
I've never been into the slant 6 but following this build has definitely made me excited for them. Love the logic behind the entire build. Looking forward to seeing the at-track tuning sessions.
My first car was a 65 Baracuda with the 225 slant 6, and three-speed. I did a little street racing (lol) and running skinny bias tires it would spin for a while then hook. I outran a Caprice with a 327 before school one day. Everyone thought I had a 383, I never let anyone look under the hood......
The slant 6 was fun.......
I would love to have that exact car, a 65 Barracuda, 225, and three speed manual. That’s the best looking facia ever put on an A-body.
I had opened the bonnet with pleasure. Getting hit by a slant six should be the height of humiliation. In Sweden, they were very common in the police's Plymouth Valiant, and they could last a very long time.
I had a 71 Plymouth Satellite station wagon with the 225 slanter and automatic. Not sure on gear ratio. Car was bone stock. That heavy B-Body wagon would still chirp the tires on dry pavement. The pre smog slant six in stock form was an awesome runner. As the 70s went on they got doggier. They were total dogs in stock form in the 1980s.
I learn more from watching this guy then I did in seven years of high school.
Lol 7 years
old school is definitely the best school, IF we're lucky we might even see him playing with weights and springs in a distributor, vacuum advance limiters etc. choice of carb and jetting is a given, mechanical timing start point with how+when (RPM) it advances will be key to this fun-bucket too.
hilarious
i don't know if he's right, but his logic sure sounds f'in right.
@@tpelton Uncle Tony is one of the old timer racers that tweaked, filed, ground, etc. until he got a little bit extra out of things that others would just bolt on. He knows his stuff.
I had a 61 falcon with the 144..swapped in a 170 from a mustang. Spent all summer as a young buck working on that car. It would hang with a stock 5.0...I know nothing crazy but I was always proud to pop the hood and show them they got beat by a 60's inline six with a ported head and homemade 4 barrel intake. Oh and ya, I was still running 3 on a tree!
Just wana say how much I and now my son enjoy your channel.. It brings back great memories of my father and I in our garage working on my old Camaro..RIP. you and my father share the same beliefs about keeping it simple and he hated newer cars... He would often say all you need to make a motor run as fuel fire timing and Air... Anyways sincerely thanks. I hope you and Uncle Kathy keep making great Vids.. I'm currently restoring a 89 Chevy S10 cameo... If you research it, they only made 37 of them..
I would love to see this sort of hot rodding logic applied to a LS, it's just such a cool way of doing things.
Baiden Fancypants The thing is a lot of what makes the LS so good is that many of the hot rod tricks are used. Mostly having really good heads and a good roller cam.
it sure was to the little racing Datsun's and VW's
Today the engineers do all the internal performance tricks. Nobody hardly does any true performance work these days except old school guys like Uncle Tony and others like him. These days 'performance' is all bolt on parts and plug it into a computer.
Baiden Fancypants. It is applied by some LS guys, It's why some look like they are running the same turbo's, fuel systems, etc. etc. but are faster and quicker than the rest of the LS crowd that shows up on race day.
I always find it interesting when you discuss some tricks to free up HP and they contradict the popular hot rod thing to do. I.e., the single roller timing chain you mention.
I know it's relative to the level of build a person is doing. My point is that I agree with you that it isn't always a one size fits all scenario, which is what you're stating - I think anyway. And that hotrodders need to understand that it's ok to veer off course from the common practice folks, sometimes. Always enjoy that about your videos, UT.
Well Stated.. and I Understood it as the more chain and teeth, equals Less power due to, more to spin.. and yes I have one waiting to be installed on my swapped 318.. a double roller chain.. to me it means I don't have to miss with it again haha.. daily driver 68 Dodge Dart everyday and Everywhere.. peace
Put his raced out tricked out slant 6er in a tubbed out pro street dodge omni and have a badass compact economy dragster lol🚗🔧🚬🚀
@@bandccoresohio that'd be a fun project, any little tinfoil Mitsubishi body with the Dodge label on it, like a Neon etc.
They all breath differently.
Longevity matters. He can get by with small stuff because its low powered, minimal weight. When you start making torque and moving heavy stuff in a hurry, you will find the light parts break. I found all the weak spots between the flexplate/flywheel and the contact patch running my 3900lb empty, 4150lbs with me in it, '70 GTO in the 12s with a 2.93 gear. Stock converter, no nitrous, 8:1 compression 455 grunt power from idle to 5800. With 275 65 15 street radials it would smoke them from idle for the entire 660. No need to get them spinning first, just whack the throttle from idle.
That thing broke an M20 4 speed, Th350s like they were made of hard candy, Th400s had hard parts breaking, and a 2004R lasted about a year behind that engine. Cast pistons, smogger heads from '75, cast rods, small hydraulic cam about the same size as a factory grind, stock intake, and Qjets. It was a 455 with 400 heads, dirt cheap 1 5/8" headers, and an HEI stuck in it. I threw that engine together in 1996, its still alive in my '65 LeMans.
You put that much torque to moving that much weight, you find what isn't up to the task real quick. The slant 6 doesn't have that power, its going in a light car, no need for all the heavy parts. Putting a Dana 60 in it would probably slow the car by a full second, no reason to do it though. It won't break the 7.25 rear even on nitrous.
Just under 2100 pounds wow.
Most of my VW rabbits (I never weighed em) said about 1800 on the title.
All that space and only 300 pounds more , that's totally awesome.
I think I've found a new motto: Swiss cheese everything.
Nothing is lighter than a hole!
@@moparman5268
Haha heck yea man.
My(76yo) pops got a motorcycle recently , and he's getting into the weight reduction thing on it.
He got rid of the passenger seat and it's replaced with carbon fiber , but you put the original seat bracket on it to attach it.
Big ol chunk of aluminum ....we Swiss cheesed that sucker and saved 4oz ...
haha really I'm not sure what we saved but every piece we replace we keep a tally of the weight.
The bike weighs like 230 pounds stock and we've knocked about 10 pounds off by just goofing around.
Now there's all kinds of aftermarket carbon fiber goodies , and aluminum and titanium bolts available (kind of takes away from the diy part )
1800 pounds on my rabbit , I'm sure if I got serious , 300 pounds wouldnt be too hard to achieve. Probably can take 75-85 pounds out by just having a driver's seat and a dash.
I could ditch the dash but I like the look and it's not too heavy.
mmmmm Swiss Cheese! And, Um, @mopar man- I thought that was tighter^__~
Theres a test you can run on your car
Take any part off
Throw it in the air
If it comes back down its too fucking heavy
- uncle tony
I have been known to Swiss cheese the hell out of things
You got me thinking (rare) and I started looking through my old magazines about some guy that took his '73 Satelite with a 318 2 barrel carb and got it into the low 14s. Remember that article in Cars Illustrated?
That's LiT!
..there was no reason for the 318 to exist, after the 360 dropped.
And yet..Chrysler kept it around.
& ppl kept buying cars with it.
even when the Magnums showed up..surely then, Mopar would just settle on the one mill, the 360 aka 5.9L.
But nope! lol.
All due respect to the 360!
the 318 was just such a sweetheart of an engine..adorable, tough, reliable and it took yeeaarrs after it was really needed anymore to sing her production swan song.
Tony I love how you explain how things work. Your a very intelligent man. I cant wait to see the leaning tower or power fly. Or it would be cool to see it in a slingshot dragster
Got my shirt and piece of fine art in the mail yesterday thank you so much!!!!!
I'm grabbing my popcorn in anticipation of watching UT do a 3 angle valve and seat grind with the bluing ink and then doing the lapping compound dance with the suction cup stick.
I had my valves so tight gasoline poured into the ports wouldn't creep between the seat and the valves.
Playing to her strong points.
That's excellent counsel Tony.
Thank you.
I wish you were closer to southern Ohio. I'd love to lend a free set of wrenching hands on one of your projects and soak up some of that Uncle Tony knowledge.
Six in a row is the way to go! I'm really enjoying this build, UT. Many thanks!
I like the way you think about engines when I was young the most important thing a racer taught me was what are you trying to accomplish why do you need these special parts when stock will do you brought me back to a funner time of my life when all these tricks made a difference🤔😎
You will probably kick some ass with the straight six you know how to get alot of something from nothing and make it fly. The way u made the 318 launch in bottle rocket was insane
Uncle Tony's our Slant6 Monk... Listen and Learn Fellow Nephew's
Stick to it Tony. We're excited can wait until you take it thing to the track. Whatever the outcome we're cheering you on, keep pushing that slant 6 Make it happen.
There was a lawnmower that was made in the early 60's called a panzer if I remember correctly that had a narrowed 8 3/4 rearend
yeah..where did i hear about that. & yeah..didn't they just source them from wrecks at the salvage yrd? narrow & freshen and plop the fab rears in their tractors :)
Love Uncle Tony’s work. He’s an old school rocket scientist that focuses on the stuff everybody else leaves behind. Keep the vids coming UT!
All right UC! Fun, interesting channel. For the millions of us who've owned and operated cars with slant-6s and have had our hands in these-great stuff. Interesting build. Go Tony!
Roll Up Yer Windows!
I'm out of the loop on this, care to explain?
@@lobmin its Tonys official non official catch Phrase. Its a take on scotty kilmers "rev up your engines" catch phrase
@@sczuylevch13 ah, so just a random spoof :)
@@lobmin yup, that's it! Roll up your windows!...wow that felt great!
Refreshing. Just simply competence and solid information without the shouting. Thank you, Tony, from Germany.
110 degree lobe separation, advanced 4 degrees gives an intake centerline of 106 degrees. Theoretical maximum horsepower is with the intake centerline at 106 degrees and the theoretical maximum torque is with the intake centerline at 102 degrees, regardless of lobe separation (THEORETICALLY). It's good to see Uncle Tony has stopped smoking.
Wow, I would’ve never figured to forget about a 60ft. time. 330. Makes sense but, I wouldn’t have thought that up on my own. This is why everybody into cars, Mopar or not should watch UTG! Experience. No substitute for that. Thanks again sharing this know-how!
yup that's just the launchpad where you're breaking stuff, straight line 1/8 mile I'd launch my little 620 (Datsun longbed P/U) in 2nd to get to the real pulling quicker.
You can fit 1.70, and 1.44 valves in a stock head. Also a 5 angle valve job helps these greatly.
I'm definitely not a slant6 guy, or even straight 6. I love all engines in general, but I love old school small block chevys. With that being said, I'm still really excited to see this thing come together.
you might be surprised what a Ford 300 I6 can really do with a little tweaking.
model nutty Yep. See what the late Ack Miller did to those little Ford I-6 and Pinto 4 poppers. He made those puppies seriously quick.
Oh I know, about those i6s, just not my cup of tea.
Once again uncle Tony has saved me a headache and money ! Would of never thought about the clearance between the spring retailer to the valve guide housing + 340 valve springs
The focus on "balance" and "sum of modifications" with this build are excellent.
New playlist "The Zen of the Slant".
3000 - 5500 is wider than I thought the power band would be! Also interesting to see how many B/RB parts fit on a slant 6.
it'll be a little wider than that, with the right gears it will definitely scoot.
Sooo many drag races are won not at either line but that 1/8 mile that's in the middle. Really enjoying this build Tony...thank you.
I might still have one of those steel head gaskets from Direct Connection (no copper coating,) on the wall somewhere at my Ma's place back in New England, still in package, if those are of appeal. Ordered for a mid-Seventies 225, didn't end up needing it, so if it's still there, it's untouched since the 80's. :)
(Also, as an addendum, I finally remembered just now to ask my sister if it's actually still there. :) )
Tighten up the rear gear lash as tight as you can get without rubbing. But shim the spider gears crazy tight first. This removes slack that will cause rear end failures. Do so evenly on the side and spider gears and check their contact pattern. Warning this changes diff width and preload.
Spiders are welded, and backlash is set tight. Rear is run with ATF
@@UncleTonysGarage Have you tried the new synthetic 0w20 motor oil in rear ends? It's almost as thin as water but sticky like STP, and no friction modifiers....
Nice to see you back in the garage
You got me loving the slant UT.....and I'm a diehard Ford guy!! Lol! Love your channel.
If you are running headers. Please create a tuning tube to insert at the collector flange. It will have a gentle taper to a 10 to 12" long straight section that is one pipe sized bigger than the primary tube diameter. This will accelerate the exhaust coming out of the collector. Lower the residual pressure in the primaries and block reversion pulses coming back up the mid pipe as they cannot get thru the constant higher speed flow coming they the tuning tube. Any that do get reflected go around the tuning tube and deadhead in the tapered area and create additional siphon suction on the tuning output flow.
Please monitor the A/F ratio as the tuning tube will lean out the carb setting needs. Expect a completely different sound from the car too.
Sounding much better and again finding that Mopar “je ne sais quoi” magic.
The difference between drag and track engines is chalk and cheese love your explanation of building a drag motor! Cheers from Australia
Well that was a mouth full of numbers . Unless your a machinist then it's the fun things you would rather do than work . Love the thinking but what's the loss on the gear drive set up ? Love the build good job you two .
I replaced an axle shaft in a Dana 60 in a 1968 GTX. The damaged axle shaft I removed (bent flange) was machined narrower between the outer bearing and the inner spline to lighten it, but the replacement axle shaft from Mopar was full thickness and weight its entire length. I think maybe there was an effort to reduce the (shipping?) weight of new cars, or it was just cheaper to not do the additional machining to the replacement axle shaft.
You have it all planned out, I told you before I love the slant six! My opinion the most reliable engine stock. Excited to see how it does beefed up.
Using the stock 6-cylinder 3 speed? I know it's light because I lowered them onto my stomach many times because they blew up quite easily and I had to change them. It didn't have much for bearings.
I have a set of headers for a slant six just collecting dust!
Do you want to sell them?
Yes, sell them to JMC1992!
@@Solargeek right
looking at that cam card that is really close to the cam I got from Sissell back in the early 70's. It is funny how what goes around comes around
I am or was a slant 6 nut. I often rewatch your videos, especially on the slant 6. When you mentioned the single roller timing chain for less parasitic loss, I remember reading back in the 90s in " slant 6 news " that some of the guys were cutting off every other impeller from the water pump.
Love the free horsepower/ parasitic loss stuff. Best part is, it applies to everything.
I think you mean if you swap a 2.71 ratio 7 1/4 rear with a 2.71 ratio 8 3/4 rear you will lose acceleration from the heavy parts eating up the power. If it was a 3.91 ratio I would swap it in, great for street romping. And it could take a lot more power too.
blasphemy? a rear end from a Dodge/Mustubishi pickup might make for a nice gear, being they were built for 2500cc 4 banger power. a couple to choose from with RWD+4WD's they'd built. maybe get a look Tony? not "real Mopar" but....?
Hey man I think that cam will work out pretty good for you I think its gunna be just enough to start pulling and hold till redline... with the way you ported those heads and the compression you'll be running it should pull hard from 3000-3500 to redline I highly doubt it will nose off up top
Stick the car and take up the initial shock to the dif with the spring and front end movement
can't wait to see this and bottle rocket at the track. another informative video on the trickery of a UTG build!
Really appreciate your show for your willingness to share practical insights, have always liked the uniqueness of the slant 6. Do you know where the engineers came up with original desired displacements i.e. bore vs. stroke? They all seem to only increase looking at them historically to something very different, regardless of company. Thanks again
I'd have to give a turbo a try! I have a 68 GMC 250 I been thinking about turboing,
you could go "the Hank Hill" with that thing too...
"propane and propane accessories". one shop I worked in was all about that, propane has become more expensive now so it's not good for a DD but.....
i look forward to these videos. not a mopar guy. i own a 350chevy truck a stock model A and a early mustang big block budget 4 link project. just love the facts and tips sprinkled in. and you make this mopar stuff interesting.
BEAT CHANNEL ON YOU TUBE.
Steel shim gaskets are the best! I've reused them multiple times with copper coat.
Love the slant six.
All credit & respect to Tony!
..I'm wondering how close this all is to the original slant six hyper pak cars, though?
Good ideas always come back around.
On that..FCA, rumor has it..has an inline 6 in the works.
:D
Thanx for the Update Uncle! Loving This!!!
Hey tony I agree with the 71/4 rear and 3 speed trans on my hotrodded slant when i was a kid. I never broke anything and pushed it many times. I also never got to put a 4 speed in it ( couldnt find a bellhousing for the 4 speed) 3 speed is very light compared to a 4 speed. I have a 67 dart today with a salnt in it and just did the 4 speed conversion with a bell from a 65 baracuda with a slant 6, mine had a racer brown can with 450 lift and 268 duration. Im curious how this cam your going to use will do ..... I might go with something similar. I love your videos on this engine and hope you continue...........Phil
This is where the magic happens... cam, comp. ratio, timing, gearing...can't wait!!!
Wisdom here for sure and Tony quotes Bill (Grumpy) Jenkins my favorite drag racing team. Subscribed.
Please use hylomar on the head gaskets. Sold thru permatex as flange sealant #85420. It's good for 500f.
Love you guys! Hope to one day take the jaunt from Memphis up to Nashville with my 4dr 72 Dart, turbo'd /6, and get your thoughts on it!! :D
Dude, you should do that!
@@johnwilburn I already did! I just wanted to get Uncle Tony to take a look and get some thoughts/advice as I'm still working out the kinks...most notably the Quadrajet gremlins!
@@idolworkshop Quadrajet was supplanted by the much better performing Carter Thermo-Quad..ofc you know. QJ has too small of a bowl..TQ has two biggies..QJ over heats like all aluminum carbs..TQ has a phenolic resin body inhibiting heat issues and making no small amount of extra hp via denser air & fuel.
dont like the TQ? Grab a brand new Street Demon..it is a modern, simplified TQ &..although sucks they don't make any at 850cfrm or larger, seems to be a lit carb.
Thanks as always a wealth of knowledge that we can't learn from books or other gearheads.
Tony there's a article on Google about a dodge dart slant six installing a junkyard turbo I the thing ran into the mid 12s not bad
setting up injection to go with it don't sound like fun
@@modelnutty6503 This article they used a carb set up crazy right.
The 1967 318 LA engine was only available with the A904 automatic transmission and came with the 7.25" rear. The 1967 318 LA engine was 66 pounds lighter than the 1966 318 A poly engine and that lightweight theme was carried on with the 7.25" as the 1966 318 came with the 8.75" rear. I had a 1967 Cornet with a 318, A904 and 7.25", a 1968 Cornet with a 273, 3-speed manual (318 was still auto only) and came with an 8.75" rear. I had a 1969 Charger SE with a 318, A727 and the then new 8.25" rear. I think the A727 transmission might have part of a trailer towing package. I have seen other 318's in trucks and vans with the A727, but most 318 cars got A904 transmissions. The 318-3 heavy duty truck engine had a steel crankshaft machined for a manual transmission and 1970's overdrive A833 4-speed transmissions became available with slant six's and 318's, but before then, no manuals for 318 cars and the slant six wasn't available with a 4-speed transmission.
I am really looking forward. To see what this engine can do.
I do think Uncle Tony is going to be taking us all drag racing this spring to watch him and lamchop thrash on some stuff.
That's the idea!
Is there a possibility that you may spray the slant 6? Nothing crazy just a 75 shot with a 2 foot long supply hose from the nitrous solenoid to soften the hit.
Not in the cards for this. Goal is to get as much as we can from a N/A Slant. Also, going any quicker than what we are hoping for would require a roll bar as well as a few other safety items, and this would add too much weight to the overall package to run with our suspension, trans and rear
Uncle Tony maybe use one of those aluminium 1963 blocks you could try bigger piston sleeves maybe
wish I still had my Buick Special aluminum V6 just to play with
Uncle Tony is a National Treasure!
If I want to learn anything about mopar I listen to this guy like him or not he knows his shit.
Tony just wondering if you have heard about the australia 265 hemi 6 cylinder engine . And would you ever build one or use one in one of your valiants . And thanks for all your information and secrets
I've heard plenty about them...all good. But, we never had those here in the states, and so there are zero examples around here for me to play with.
@@UncleTonysGarage ok tony if i find one ill keep it aside and ship one over to you . Im sure will enjoy building one .they made very good power and torque with not much work needed they produced more power then the 360
@@rebekahm4919 haha oh hellzyeah, slap a Barra into Tony's hands he'll be putting it into the 10's no problem somehow!
@@modelnutty6503 not a barra a 265 hemi that was the first power house 6 before the barra
What kind of intake are you going to use for the most even air distribution to each cylinder? Are you going to use 2 carbs? Maybe 3 webbers?
No, we're using a stock configuration Offenhauser with 600 Eddie. The three different length runners help spread the torque curve. The one we're going to use here is already in service on another engine and performs nicely
Uncle Tony's Garage yea but whats the afrs on each cylinder wouldn’t it be better to feed every piston the same air at the same velocity and volume instead of starving the 1st and 6th cylinder? I’d assume with for example 3 webber side drafts with a medium length intake runner would out preform the multi lengths single carb with more engine efficiency and better power delivery and it would probably sound pretty good
That cam has a pretty long duration for for a 225 inline 6 with that much lift, so the power may come in later, it looks like it has 4 degrees of advance on ground into the cam which is good, but advancing the cam a few more degrees may help, but if the head can support the extra rpm, just send it. It’s gonna fly either way!
maybe there is a shop near Uncle Tony that can provide some chassis dyno time? that would also be interesting to see the results
Ah yes, the Chrysler 7 1/4 rear axle....I shattered two power shifting the 273 I installed in my '63 Valiant, way back in 1968. She could blow away 350 Novas any day, though.
Hey uncle tony, thank you for teaching me a lot about my slant six, i was wondering how much you can shave off the deck and head before you have to change or alter the push rods? Im using a .440 lift comp cam with mopar forged springs rated for a little over .500 lift (if that helps)
Chrysler 7 1/4 gears were used in cub cadet lawn and garden tractors in the 60s and 70s. It can handle 12 hp for sure!
I never knew that, but I love it. I’ve seen 8 3/4” in both ends of a snow cat before. Wonder what ratio those Cub Cadets have. I’ve got to find one now.
@@johnwilburn Not sure of the ratio I rebuilt a cub 124 my dad gave me and I ran across the gear thing in the shop manual. tuff little machines I still use it to push snow.
@@blackscotydog if you could get traction those little monsters would walk straight up a wall, neighbor had with wheel weights and a 4' snow blade on it, also great for towing a big gravel drag.
@@modelnutty6503 Yes those little machines were made really well mine is 50 years old and I still mow and use the snow blower and blade.
If you're gonna be bracket racing this consistency is key. In the 90s there was a guy bracket racing an Alliance of all things at Great Lakes in Union Grove, WI. He was extremely consistent. Quite often faster cars lost to him because they went too fast. With his handicap he'd be so far down the track the other guy would blow out of his bracket because he was worried about catching him.
How did you get the car so light?? Love to hear the specifics!! My last 68 Dart (450/727/7.25) went across the scale with me, a tank of gas, (and admittedly some tools and slicks in the trunk) at over 3600!!! Sounds like you did some Addison Silver Bullet style work to it!!
Just picked up a 81 Cordoba 318 7-1/4.
Want a diff?
probs the 8.25" the 7.25 went away long before then.
Hello Uncle Tony, thanks for the wonderful content. Any thoughts on the hemi six?
Uncle Tony, if the powerband your looking at starts at 3000RPM, what gear will you be using in the rear end? Will this car be running 1/4 mile or 1/8th. Pure stock muscle car guys have figured out how to hook on bias ply tires without blowing them off from the green so in theory you should be able to launch the dart without breaking the rear end yet come on mid track with authority.
That's the plan!
Got to love the determination Tony has when an LA or some other V8 would be SOOO much easier...the advantages are .. about 75lbs.engine alone.
Im probably not the first to ask this question but did ever consider the Australian 265 hemi six cylinder with a good cam and a set of triple webber's they where good for 300 hp and like to rev and have heaps low down torque to. I know they would be a foreign engine over there but chi make performance cylinder heads for them and and camshafts aren't hard to sorce either the buttom ends are tough as they get with a push rod six and share alot of over Chrysler components
This is about building the Slant
Engineering is the art of managing compromises. Tony gets it.
Hey Uncle,Tony, what effect will flywheel weight have on your plan? Can't wait to see this run. Do you have any plans to do any time on the dyno? Thanks again for your videos.
Our viewers don't have dynos...we'll be doing all out R&D at the track
The general philosophy that's being followed is an excellent one.
"Never try to outwork what you can outsmart."
Tony hope you have gone to a doctor for your flu... it's been weeks hope you're doing good! Great stuff vid;s!
UT, that's a beautiful chunk of metal you've got laying there. Roll Up Your Windows!
I have a slant 6 in a yale forklift, put new water pump on it a new radiator and it still over heating and blowing violent out of the overflow. What else would cause this to happen
You should look at the 8.25 also. What stall torque converter are you looking at?
8.25 is too heavy, and the car is a clutch
*No Doubt, Tony Knows His Shit*
I think the 7.25 ring gear being smaller then a 8.25 ring gear is like going from a 33 inch tire to a 29in or etc. it’s like going to a lower gear
It doesn't work quite that way
Well I guessed pretty close about the cam specs a few videos...I'm kinda surprised by the total lift.
Based on what I saw the flow stalls out at relatively low lift in that head, but by running a high lift you're in the highest flowing area longer without resorting to a custom "cheater" cam that dwells a few degrees at a lower peak lift.
Are you going to run it +4 or straight up?
It's going to be cool to see how it performs, everyone knows what to expect from a V8 of the same vintage...but I've never seen a built straight six, Slant or otherwise from this era.
We'll start at the intended +4 and see where it goes from there
I know you would have already thought of this but would 1.7 rocker arms help? I really like the way you think things out too!
i wanna see what it will do with a custom splayed port aluminum head. i know it's not an everyman item but, in the future it would be cool what you can squeeze out of it N/A with some real air flow. EDIT: then also with forced induction with said fancey head.
even well done hood scoop can do lots after about 45 mph, boost is boost!
@@modelnutty6503 without boost a splayed port aka porcupine opens up a TON of volume and reduces a lot of flow robbing angles.
Hay Big T. I think you said about 2000+ lbs. I assume that's a '67--'76 body style.
What would your best guess be for how light you could make an earlier A-body?
Do you think the later '63-'66 Valiant could be made lighter than a '60-'62 Chicken Winga?
The way this car is set up, an early car wouldn't be much lighter, if at all