Mast Maintenance
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- I was supposed to be taking off the fittings just for a general clean and re-apply some Duralac, until I noticed serious damage. The fitting literally cracked off and the shroud bolt damaged the mast too. Most of the rivet holes are cracked and this is going to be a BIG job to repair this mast. Of course we will be doing it ourselves to save money and learn more about masts and rigging... stay tuned for the ongoing fiasco that is set to be the bane of our season.
For More Recent Updates:
Instagram: @wildlings_sailing
Facebook: / wildlingssailing
email: thewildlingsofficial@gmail.com
Support us?
Ko-fi: www.ko-fi.com/...
PayPal: www.paypal.me/...
Our T-shirts: teespring.com/...
Stuff we use. We get a small % if you buy using these links...
Cinematic Camera: amzn.to/33ovnKA
Our Phones: amzn.to/2M98p4L
Handheld VHF: amzn.to/2TiC5wY
Retro Bluetooth speaker/FM Radio: amzn.to/2KqQ2Gk
You two are both wonderful characters with a righteous calling. It's good you are humble learners and have a good attitude for finding your way through the challenges that arrive along the way. Stay beautiful and inspired. Highest Blessings
Hi, Mark and Nadiyana,
I've just seen this video after working through from the beginning during our isolation rules here in Perth Western Australia. You are doing an amazing thing and something you will cherish all your lives. You can imagine my surprise on seeing your mast issues as I have just had a similar experience with my own mast. I was going to do a DIY repair but was advised against it and to have it done professionally. I am so glad I did.
The rigger sourced mast section of the same gauge which he regarded as important and drilled to prevent the damaged parts worsening. I have been able to reuse the spreader feet which was good but the reason for the damage in the first instance was the through bolt shearing as it had been overtightened in the past and crushed the mast causing a hole at one side. I'll photo the finished job on my next visit to the boat so you can see how it looks. You would never know a repair has been done which will make things easier come sell time.
All the best to you both and keep up the good work.
Cheers,
Steve
PS I originally come from Burnley whose team I support, so I wonder why Aston Villa and not Preston North End?
PPS If you do go down the DIY route you must use monel rivets.
Sounds just the same as ours, with the bolt going into the mast! I think I'll be doing it myself, but taking a long time over it, making sure everythings right before proceeding.
Ah that's awesome, I wish Villa were as safe as Burnley now. I just had to be different as a kid, so chose Villa, and my Granny bought me the shirt and the rest is history!
Hi Mark, Nadiyana,
'Good to see the event of removal of those sockets. All of that damage occurred a long time ago. The broken bits are worn and corroded. It is nothing you have done. Oh.... I am no longer a mast person.... that was years ago. Today it is trucks, but you don't forget things. I also looked about for IYE fittings and came to the same conclusion as you. The scrap aluminium is best sourced from similar mast sections as your, so showing the dimensions on your channel might turn up something. You definitely need Nadiyana's help when doing the fiddly magic to get those screws in. It is not difficult really, but so much easier with some help.
Thanks for the video !
Hi i have a small bend in my mast, i seen video of bouncing it with body weight! Is this the best way? Thanks
I nearly fell off my seat laughing. When Nadiyana said she helped you fix your skate board. You gave a real sceptical look into the camera. Then ”see my handy job” you two are just so funny. It’s brilliant lockdown entertainment! I also love the way you are prepared to tackle any job. You will learn more that way than reading a book.
The glance at the camera reminded me of Fleabag - and Phoebe Waller-Bridge.
Haha, glad you appreciated that!
Well that is an unwelcome setback. Fortunately you have identified it and have a mentor to help you sort it and that the mast isn’t critical while cruising the canals. Thank you for responding to my message, that was cool. Bravo to Nadyana for taking an interest in working on the boat.
Thanks for all your support, Merch.
Nice to see you both happily coping in this current climate, better times ahead. Love watching you pair you make me laugh 😂😀
Cheers Tony!
Make sure you find the end of all the cracks and run a 3/32" drill through to stop the cracks migrating. (stop drilling)
Nice one, will look out for the drill bit
@@WildlingSailing 3/32" is 2.38mm so look for a 2.5mm or 3mm drill bit, you are after all in the birthplace of the metric system 😁
At the beginning and ends of the cracks, on the mast... drill holes to prevent the cracks to further migrate... 🙂
Nice one, a lot of people suggesting it, definitely going to do
Don't say "handy job"!! Brilliant
Haha!
Haha, I enjoyed that too, English is my wife's fourth language with a Chinese dialect being her first, she also has come up with some hilarious comments over the years, and she still says open/close the light.
That made me laugh so much I had to pause, then I recovered. lost it again at 9:00 Iove you guys.XD
First drill a small hole at the end of the cracks to break the surface tension on the metal. Otherwise the cracks will keep growing.
Well done you two once again ,,positive attitudes,I’m sure you will soon come across either new secondhand or repaired items ,,,keep smiling
Cheers Nigel!
This is something that professional advice is worth paying for... you don't want your mast folding at the spreaders in a blow!
Yup! Except professional advice for free is even better 😉
A good welding shop should be able to fabricate new spreader roots.
TBH i wouldnt trust most shops to do that job properly.
@@roderickmchardy3650 The originals are pretty shoddy. The original welds have cracked because they are concave.... mainly fused parent metal that has been overheated.
@@jadams3427 monogamous welds are quite common on thin stainless , it helps reduce distortion
I may need to get them remade indeed!
Guys I am take aback by your positivity. That alone is a medal wearthy. When replaceing/ rebuilding the mas don’t forget to use isolation gel at each part. I will look here for a groundplate for the spreader. Keep up the good mood
Thanks Martin! Luckily just got some isolation gel
So much awesome advice in here, I've learned a ton just from the comments alone. Sounds like the job isn't going to quite as huge as it could have been thought to be early on 🤞🤞🤞
Hey Guys, the power of TH-cam and people is humbling indeed. Love your channel, found you guys a while back!
Wildlings Sailing yeah it's pretty awesome (TH-cam).
When you stop and think about how much knowledge is being shared so freely and the amount of perfect strangers happy to pitch in and help out, it's pretty awesome. 😁👌🏻
I think I must owe over a 100 beers so far from the amount of help I've had 😂🍻
Haha, you need to start your own onboard brewery, perfect lockdown excercise 😂
Wildlings Sailing ha ha, sold!.🍻😬
This one Mark, credit to Tylee. The spreader roots don't have to be stainless steel. They can be made from aluminum and welded to a backing plate big enough to add strength to the damaged area on the mast, then use monel rivets to fasten the whole thing to the mast. Now the good points, the backing plate should be around 2x thicker than the mast was originally, that plate will be formed by a series of small creases into the same curvature as the mast. It will be bigger than the ss root plate by 20mm allround which will provide room for new monel rivet positions staggered between around the old. The old positions can be used as well but the corrosion of the mast at those positions make them less secure than the new. The backing plate dimensions around the bolt can be 40mm radius around the bolt hole just to help stop the alum from deforming under bolt side pressure from the stay tension. The plate thickness is good enough to warrant putting another bolt through the mast higher up, make the plate dim 40mm radius around this as well, doesnt have to be at the very top of the diamond. Cheers to Nadyana, thanks for the chuckle.
Nice one bluejeans, solid information I can trust. Just got a new engine coolant pipe through the which I'm sure you'll be happy to know 😁
Good episode your ssides to the camera brilliant
It will be really interesting to see how you get the bolts installed. I look forward to that episode
It's going to be epic!
thanks again for the smile take care and stay safe see you guys when you get down here
as others have said, drill small holes at the ends of the cracks , get a decent welder to weld up the old cups , 5 minute job .( i hope you have not lost that little piece ) and you can hammer them back into shape ( easy ) and use big monnell rivets instead of those pesky bolts , i dont know how easy it is to get a welder there just now .
Have you thought of bolting the spreader plate on to the slave plate and then taping/ bolting the slave plate on to the mast, only a throught if the mast is thicker enough to tap
Hi Mark,
Sorry to see what was underneath the spreader plates. It seems you’ve got four questions here to solve;
1) How to fix the corrosion and cracks in the mast - and prevent them again
- definitely drill out the ends of all the cracks to stop propagation and holes where corrosion has started.
- polishing the corroded areas only with very fine wet and dry
- get someone to TIG weld the cracks up
2) The Spreader Root Plates
The plates need to be changed. Loads, crevice corrosion and age hardening will have taken their toll - Replace them.
You could post them back to your dad and get a stainless steel fabricator (to make new BIGGER STRONGER stainless steel ones. You will need a couple of measurements ;
- The angle of intersection into the mast
- The curvature of the mast PLUS new sleeving plate on top.
3) Sleeving the mast - rather than just backing plates
This part of the mast gets the highest loads for bending fore and aft, sideways and column failure (Euler). It needs to be strengthened with marine grade aluminium. You might consider wrapping a sleeve around this section by sourcing an aluminium section from a rigger as an offcut.
If you go for backing plates, they need to be bigger and thicker.
4. How and when to put it all together
- As mentioned last week, this is a high load area and subject to corrosion - three or four different connected metals are found here.
- The mast
- The rivets
- The spreader roots
- The spreaders themselves.
You might consider getting the work done in a long cation that is used to this work. Possibly find. someone to TIG weld the aluminium plates in place. Monel rivets in a diagonal pattern and zinc chromate paste might be better.
What do people think?
Aye m8’s, this is excellent! Probably the best time of doing this research and findings. I would go with the old spreader brackets. Tension is going square to the mast so I wouldn’t bother to much. To straighten them: a wooden surface (maybe a post or a log) and a not too heavy hammer. A welder to repair the cracked and the broken parts. Re-rivet them in place after the structural reinforcement is located in line with your old rivet holes. Bolting process seams like overkill and extremely impractical. Reinforcements could be glued with Tec7 in place. Then they would be galvanic isolated in the same go if you use Tec7 in between the surface and the spreader brackets, and the whole application would be very much stronger than ever. Just be careful to make and keep templates for all holes.
Cheers for the advice MiQ, you'll be pleased to know I got some new paint brushes the other day, finally!!
@@WildlingSailing man , the brushes you were painting with freaked me out also and than using your fingers to pimp the surface 😭
I’m not a sailor, I’m an aviation guy. What some people say of stop drilling the cracks is definitely right but I doubt it will suffice. I would recommend more in depth checking. Due to the wear out of the bolt hole, I’m afraid of corrosion inside the mast, so I would suggest an inspection, for piece of mind. For cracks I also would recommend a dye test, there might be some unable to be detected otherwise. Material fatigue is also an issue due to the constant motion on places you might not think of yet, like the mast footing. In my opinion I would seek advise from an experienced rigging specialist or boat inspector. With their experience they can tell you what needs to be done and how. And yes an experienced maritime aluminium welding shop will know how to get things safely repaired. But please keep in mind the mast of a sail boat is its engine mount, nothing you wanna take short cuts on. Imagine how lucky you are you found out about it in the safety of a boat yard and not out somewhere offshore in gale force winds. Let this be a highly educational experience for you: Live and learn! Good luck to you and let’s hope the repair cost will be manageable for you.
Thanks for writing this long helpful comment!
Keep up with the handy work 😀
😂
The pre roll advert for this vid was how to take a dressing table drawer and make a little garden. I am being profiled as piss poor from watching your vids. 😆Suits me )
Haha! Love it
It seems quite doable. There must be a metal shop within a reasonable distance that can fabricate new ones. Wouldn’t be a bad idea to find out what it would cost. Might not be as pricey as you think. Maybe your friend who did the drawings can get them made in the UK.
Nice one, I'll try and draw out the measurements and put out a few feelers
Hallo, you can also make new larger spreader plates and weld the tube on it. You don 't need the bolts.
Sjoerd
Yes I agree, much better solution. And as suggested by others, arrest the cracks from travelling. Or get the old holes filled and cracks welded.
@@7drobin @Orange Sky too..... This is an interesting idea.
Nice one, advice noted!
a two piece clampette clamp is what you need to make for the mast that bolts together on front and back with epoxy under bolts all the way through not near the edge and drill the ends of the cracks strengthening the aluminum extending 6 inches or more past were the corrosion is with the fittings attached , a lot of the corrosion is because of the different types of metals in contact
Handy job...LoL...Love it..!
My Mrs is a non native English speaker & comes out with funny things like that...
What was that thing she was waving..?
Haha, all part of the fun. It's a stylus for the iPad so she can draw using an app.
My solution would be to braze weld the rivet holes with Al rod. End drill and braze the cracks. look for an oversized spreader plate from another mast, about a minimum 40mm bigger all round . Tap it into shape and rivet it back on with new holes. Any boat yard can do the brazing, but make sure the site is supported so that the mast is not stressed during the repair. Must not weld in or bolt into a stressed area. Use all the usual gunks and gaskets. Lots of emery cloth and check again in 5 years. Good luck.
Nice one, I'll do a bit more research into it
You should be able to talk to a fabrication shop at one of your ports to weld the holes closed and just redrill the holes. The stainless can be fabricated also. It should not be that costly. But I am coming from the US and have no idea of cost in UK.
Absolutely, going to have an ask around a few places to get some quotes
Mate, I now have a couch full of beer after handy job, I was struggling to breath I could not stop laughing 😂.
Hahaha! 😂😂 So sorry for your sofa, but so happy you liked it!
If you are stuck in a bind. See if you can find a meld worker locally. Someone has to be around they area. Reused the spreader bracket, they can weld this to another piece of stainless steel, larger than the one that is damage, complete with new holes drilled and then hold that to the mast. I'll do a little sketch and pul load it.
Nice one, that would be nice of you
Idea looks good, I’d make the aluminum plates bigger though and definitely find some new spreader fittings or have some made up, the old ones are buggered...
Thanks... agreed on that. Perhaps some more doublers too to take up the lower shroud load, cos those sockets are not in good shape.
very funny vid, had a chuckle
Maybe similar to some other comments but grind out along the surface of the cracks, drill the ends of the all the crack with a small 1-2mm bit to stop them spreading along the mast anymore, then pay someone to aluminium weld over the crack? Flatten them off with a file? Maybe same guy could repair the stainless fitting with weld too? Only my thoughts Mark as a backyard mechanic, might cost abit more employing someone to weld but would be a pretty quick easy job. Good luck with it.
Nice one, going to take in all advice on this one, it all helps. Definitely going to be drilling out there cracks
if i were you i'd get new roots made by the kings lyn shop mentioned below, but with large back plates, the size of those "aluminium scraps". Then after treating the cracks, you have a simple duralac and riveting job to refit
Nice one, going to get everything measured up and sent off to a few places
As others have said. Drill a hole each side of crack to stop the stress riser travelling. The diamond backing plate is fine and a good idea (and neat). No need for screws to bolt the backing plate down - thats overengineering and the rigging forces from the shoruds to the root is pushing towards the mast anyway. Rivet the plate to the mast (and epoxy it it on for extra reassurance - but not needed). Then rivet your repaired/replaced crosstree root to the backing plates through to mast (same as it was before. All you are doing with backing plate is making a sound platform. As the root is stainless steel put some duralec (www.amazon.co.uk/Duralac-Anti-Corrosive-Jointing-Compound/dp/B00LB6EUEO) between the stainless root and the aluminium backing plate to stop electrolysis. Use monel rivets. longer rivets on the crosstree root to get through thr backing plate and mast. All the best, Fair Winds from Poulton-le-fylde. :).
* Rivets on masts are fine. Its how mast sections are sleeved and connected together to make very tall masts.
Nice one, appreciate your time in writing that! Going to take everything into account
Handy job made me laugh out loud🤣🤣🤣
An additional comment re the spreader sockets: They don't have to be stainless steel. They can be made from aluminum and welded to a backing plate big enough to add strength to the damaged area on the mast, then use monel rivets to fasten the whole thing to the mast. No bolts, no stress!
Cool! Another thing to take into consideration there. Definitely going to need some more of those monel rivets!
Something no one asked is what are your plans for this boat? If you plan to use it off shore you want a strong bullet proof repair. If you are just using it coastal cruising the bolts from the inside seem a bit overkill. If going deep ocean I would get a good welder to close all cracks, then weld a plate over each side then weld the root to each. If coastal I would get some aluminum plate a bit thicker, bend to shape over the mast, find some pipe for the roots and take it to the welding shop. Let them cut and weld the roots it in place, then you can drill new holes and pop rivet with 1/4in rivets. Plenty strong enough for coastal work, and the cheapest repair. Now all that said, have you inspected the rest of the mast carefully? Might want to check every fitting ie strip it entirely and rebuild it.
Hi Kenneth, certainly not going offshore too much in this boat, so just going to do a solid job but nothing too crazy. Like your idea. Yep, I'll be getting onto the goose neck and top of the mast fittings too
Well i'm no expert on masts and rigging, and it looks like your getting good advice already 👍🏼I will say lucky you found it when you did, 1) before the mast crashed down potentially putting you both in danger, though I think that would have taken a while yet. and 2) while you have time to do something about it, not talking about the lockdown, but rather you have till you reach the other end of your canal journey to save up and get the job fixed, so take your time and do it right, this is not an area to skimp out on the fix (coming from a genuine cheapskate).
Handy Job 😳😂
Make sure you drill holes at each end of the crack.. It should prevent the crack from continuing
Will do, JB!
I would advice u to not take risk with your rigging. The best thing u can do is Replace all the cracked pieces. And let your rigging checked by an expert.
Yep, sound advice there
Kevlar is similar to carbon fibre, not quite as strong, but much cheaper. If you can get some fine woven kevlar and wrap the mast in the area of the spreaders (Say from 4 inches below to 4 inches above) then resin bond it to the mast and once it is dried cover the joint in weather proof paint or varnish
Kevlar and carbon fibre are not similar at all ! Kevlar has very high sheer strength. Carbon has none. Carbon is good in tension and compression only. However, a Kevlar 'bandage' laid up on the mast section would be pretty tough. It is a good idea. The process is tricky. It is a sod to wet out.... 'needs vacuum bagging. 'Any composite engineers listening ?
You need to insulate between the mast rot and the mast. this were only done at one of them. thats the why you have corrotion. You can repair your mast with epoxy, but the right way to do it is a new mast profile.
Cool, stand by for the full fix, going to be different to in this video
Free range sailing have repaired there boom with glassfiber and epoxy, you can see in their channel how it is done
I've done this job before, the plan looks good but I didn't use bolts, just rivet the aluminium plates and sockets but make sure to buy Monel rivets. I put a piece of insulating tape over each hole first then puncture to accept rivets. No epoxy. The mast will be stronger there than ever. You will need longer bolts to go through the rigging tangs. A piece of old mast of the same section and profile would be ideal for the plates as it would have the anodising.
Nice one, reassuring to hear you've done it before too. Looks like this is going to be the fix so far, all the best mate!
Rather than trying to get nuts onto the back of bolts inside the mast, why not fasten the two spreader plates onto threaded stainless steel rod which passes straight through the mast and out the other side? (I am assuming that the two plates sit opposite each other on the port and starboard sides of the mast). Not only will this be much easier, it will be stronger too.
Nice idea, and you're the first to suggest this idea
What interesting glasses
Haha, an arm snapped off and they're my only pair
Wildlings Sailing miliput epoxy resin and jb marineweld, we can rebuild them!
You should consider manufacturing the spreader sockets and make them heftier if you have the dimensions. Maybe have them made by your dad in England
You should probably be encouraging Nadiana's help with handy jobs! 🤣😂🤣😂
😂😂
I know a stainless steel fabricator who could make you new spreader bases no problem. They made some great bits for me. New stainless fuel tank and a stainless sliding gooseneck. I am getting them to make stanchion bases for me too.
Also I believe small cracks can be welded.. lastly if you are going to have stainless steel in contact with aluminium you get corrosion because of the electrolytic action between dissimilar metals. So put Duralec or Tufgel on each bolt and on the stainless where it contacts the mast or use a thin plastic gasket between the mast and the spreader base
Cheers Hillary! Good advice, also need to be sorting the goose neck out too, looks a bit if a mess
Wildlings Sailing here is the website of the stainless fabricators. www.solentwelding.com
I wouldent bolt on a backing plate because just having rivot holes caused the old alluimnium to crack so drilling more holes will result in more cracking so find somewhere to weld on the backing plate
Fair play, a few people mentioned that too
As said, kill all of the cracks by drilling a small hole at the ends of each of them. The spreader sockets look to be rather light weight so would benefit IMO with being made from thicker SS. The mounting plate can be made bigger so that the rivets are well out of the way of the existing holes plus you can add a couple more, one each side of the tube. They can be less pointy. The mast shape isn't complex so the amount of curve in the plate is small so should be easy to form before the tube is welded on. A filet ring can be welded around the tube to plate junction. I'd clean back the area and give it a couple of coats of the yellow zinc chromate for basic protection. The gasket or whatever you're going to use I'll leave to the metallurgists re stainless to alloy. Monel rivets have been mentioned and that sounds good. Doing it this way will mean no bolts except for the one that goes right through the mast. As for rigging tensions later on I'll leave that for the experts again but it sounds as if you are reading up on that. Good luck. At least you are preparing to go mast free down the canal rather than preparing to go to sea.
A company like this should be able to duplicate your spreaders, change the size, thickness and shape, make a reinforcing plate to put underneath etc etc. Worth an ask. Won't be cheap but they are vital items. email them with your story and pictures and a link to this video. www.performancerigging.co.uk/services/rig-servicing-and-repair/
They are on the Hamble.
Nice one, certainly going to be emailing around a few places including this one. Love your advice, many thanks for taking your time here
A couple of tips to add, where the mast is cracked drill a 3mm hole that is centred on the end of the crack this will stop the crack spreading any further. the local fabricator who welds the spreader root for you will be able to make new base plates for you get him ti use thicker plate 3mm thick would be good . to get the bolts through the holes in the mast feed some weed trimmer cord through the hole and up the mast, superglue the end of the cord to the end of a bolt and pull it through. the problem I see with bolts will be getting a spanner on the head of the bolt while tightening I would just use larger stainless rivets and lots of Sika 291 or epoxy between the plates and the mast. if you don't make that base thicker where it welds to the pipe it will carck again. hope this helps.
You cannot get a spanner on the bolt heads, unless Nadiyana shins up inside the mast! You need only a small spanner on the flats filed in the end of the screw where the little hole is for the cord that pulls the screw into position. Epoxy is essential under the aluminium doubler. Good idea on the thicker base plates, cos the old design was not up to the job. The 12mm thru bolt thread was bearing on the mast hole and the thin SS socket baseplate. Not good.
@@jadams3427 of course i dropped the ball on that observation
@@gmoose777 No worries there. Drilling holes at the ends of the cracks is often done in aircraft. The trick is to find the real end of the crack. Dye testing is probably the easiest way. I think adding a bigger doubler than I have shown, epoxied on, with enough pop rivets, should be OK. It is like some old racing masts we used to make, where extra strength is added only where needed. Those cracks are mainly up and down, rather than girthing the section, and they are at a 'node' rather than mid panel somewhere on the mast
@@jadams3427 yeah dye check would be good but a good clean and you should be able to find the end that's the reason I suggested 3mm hole I would use a smaller drill if you had a dye check or eddy current result the slightly bigger hole gives you a margin, and vertical cracks are less worrying than circumferential ones
@@gmoose777 Good point. I am sure Mark will pick this up in these replies, but I will make sure he does. Cheers!
you also need to drill the ends of the cracks to stop it from extending further, get a crack dye test kit
Instead of cap screws and nuts for the spreader how about using 3/16" or 1/4" pop rivets? It was fastened originally with 1/8" rivets. the larger diameter rivets are very strong, especially the 1/4" diameter.
Cool, I'll check them out
After thinking about this more. It seems to me the spreaders are under compression load. There probably isn't much if any shear force where the spreaders attach to the mast. I would use the smallest diameter rivets so as not to take away much material from the mast by drilling larger holes. 1/8" or 3/16" should be more than adequate for this project. Also, the 1/4" rivets require a stronger tool because it takes so much force to pop them. I would not recommend the 1/4" rivets for this job. Caveat, I am not an engineer so do your research.
A stop/arret sign might be the right thickness for the repair plates.
Are you suggesting some, ahh... "creative liberation" of stop signs? :D
Haha!
@@WildlingSailing Bonus points if you find a stop sign on a samson post replacement.
I would ask a qualified marine engineer to look at and test the mast before you go anywhere on the blue yonder.Thats just me being super carefull .,but I'm sure you will come up
with the right decision as you have done so well so far.Im sure your friend is highly qualified in masts too.
Hey Robert, definitely going to get as much advice as possible first. If it goes way over my head maybe I'll have to foot the bill
Why not tap a thread through the spreader fitting, the backing plate and the mast? Much easier than trying to do the bolts up in the middle of the mast. Good luck, good to be handy 😏
Nice one for the advice, good to have!
Don't panic send them to a stainless fabrication shop to copy making the Base plates a bit bigger drill holes in the ends of all cracks to stop spreading and then weld the cracks with the low melt alloy rods
Long term gap year best year. Re: mast: not much to say that hasn't been said already :D
Cheers Benny!
photo bomb was great.
These two are probably neighbors of yours, they've been living down there for four years and at present in lockdown. Im assuming your on the Marne at Nogent, seeing how the boats are moored diagonally to the dock. Most yacht stuff is further back into Paris but they might have some contacts. Looking further south down the Marne would def be cheaper. 16 more days to go uugghhhh. Ive added some addresses below that are more or less within 12kms. I'll call a friend tomorrow, see if he has some contacts in the area.
www.lecargo.co/plaisance/accastillage/balcons-et-chandeliers
www.cdiscount.com/le-sport/r-chandelier+bateau.html#_his_
www.nauticexpo.fr/cat/equipements-pont-entretien/chandeliers-arceaux-filieres-bateaux-UA-565.html
www.pagesjaunes.fr/pros/detail?bloc_id=00821166000001C0001&no_sequence=1&code_rubrique=28050600
www.118box.com/accastillage-materiel/val-de-marne-94.html
My friends, If it helps I will make new spreader fittings, the only thing you have to do is sent me the old ones and give a drawing where you want the new holes/ and dimentions. So the Lock down saved you a lard of future trouble. Sometimes you have to see the things in perspective. BTW it will cost you only the postfee.
Hey Gerard, that's so thoughtful of you! But don't worry, we have someone who's going to do it/make a few adjustments to the overall design before committing to the original IYE spec. Ah yes the lockdown has sorted us right out in this case!
I think you will need to drill the holes and tgen use a threader so you can screw and tighten them up.
Thanks for the advice mate!
Why not have new spreader base's made up and then just put them back on(The same way with rivets) 9" below the original position then all you would need to do is drill the thru bolt hole for the shroud coupling , then just clean up the mess above it with a rivetted sleave.
Not a bad idea, but worry about moving the position of the spreaders a bit
Monel rivets on the mast fittings....... always.
It should be the law
Watch Odd sail their latest on their new mast
never drill and tap or bolt. use rivnuts, SS, Alu, copper take your pick. 6 times stronger than tapping 3mm alu. if your off by 0.2 drilling dia u loose. hole oval because thread was off. good luck
Nice one, a few people have suggested that too
@@WildlingSailing no problem, $20 kit. screwfix I think, incl gun
It would be easier to tap the holes
Drilling a small hole at the end of each crack is very good advice. Your friend Justin has good advice on making a backing plate to cover and strengthen the damaged area, but I would make it bigger (longer) than shown on his otherwise excellent drawing. As far as I know, most masts are approx 3 mm in thickness, and I would get some 3 mm (or even thicker) alu plate for the repair. Try finding material that is salt water resistant. Btw, I'm sure your father (or a local auto shop) is able to make new spreader roots or at least weld the cracked part, even mending the missing part on the spreader root. Wish you luck! ;-)
It's that Albin Vega man again !
I had come to the same conclusion that the doubler should be bigger, and someone else here has suggested it too.
@@jadams3427 Lol...
The GOLDEN RULE -TEACH YOUR WIFE EVERHTHING "YOU" KNOW MARK!! IN CASE SHE NEEDS TO FIX SOMETHING DUE TO Mark being injured at sea or if....I could make a list of the Salties Sailors that say that is the rule of thumb. RULE! YOUR WIFE ISN'T ONLY ADVENTOURS, SMART, A TAKE CHARGE,ALWAYS WILLING TO HELP AND LEARN EVERYTHING I'VE SEEN YOU DO MARK..I TRULY BELIEVE IF SHE HAD TO SHE COULD AND WHOULD SURVIVE AT SEA AND FIND HER IN HER WAY TO A PORT. NOT ONLY BECAUSE OF TECHNOLOGY'S AVAILABLE BUT BECAUAE OF A SURE WILL TO SURVIVE! YES, THERE ARE HEAVY THINGS SHE CAN'T WORK ON IF ENVOLCES LIFTING AND WOULD NEED TO HIRE THAT TYPE JOB OUT, AS I THINK YOU WILL AT LEAST BE SURE THE MAST ITS FIXED BEFORE SALEING TO ANYON ELSE. LOTS OF WORK, TO PROBABLY DO OR MAKE SURE THE NEW BOAT OWNERS KNOW ABOUT IT AS EVERYTHING
You two are great you g beginners and starting out this Yang you will be able to become day Southey Southey sellers of the world in 25 years or so you will both the amazing sailors. Just think what you started out on and imagine what you could end up dem when dey ! Your dream boat, the size boat and the blue water boat that you both one so bad and desire. Learning all these lessons now will Prepare You guys for them.
This is just s bit oof a message to Mark
If stuck for ideas, let's hear about your sailing dreams. Where do you imagine sailing life will take you and what is on your bucket list? Take us viewers on your imaginary journey.. P.S We won't hold you to it.. :)
Nice idea, we've actually got quite a few things at the moment, but not a bad suggestion for the future
Lmao love you guys
Your going about it the wrong way. Best option is to fabricate new oversized stainless spreader plate and not bother with an aluminium repair sandwich plate. That way you won't need to use any of the existing mast rivet holes.
Fair play!
Colvic Sea Rover isn't it? I'll go down to the yacht graveyard near here (5 miles away) and see if they've got any of those spreader bases there. And failing that look around the creeks at some of the abandoned yachts. Give me a list of things you need Mark and I'll go on a mooch for you. And send me that bloody address lol ya lil wotsit. :)
Haha! Well that would be so helpful of you, you need to send your email address again because I've lost it like a total wotsit! or email us thewildlingsofficial@gmail.com
Publish the dimensions...you might get lucky with a sympathetic metal worker....
Haha! I hope so
Sorry asides
you should watch this vid on aluminium repair with braising rods you could weld a plate over the damage it does not require a welder just a gas and you could weld up your new parts from aluminium this way torchth-cam.com/video/n1njyuPBIH0/w-d-xo.html
also you inspired me to look for an Asian girlfriend as I was having no luck finding a western sailing partner and I can say thankfully I think I have found my dream girl she seems totally amazed by the idea of traveling and living on a boat and making me eat rice 3 times a day haha the culture shock is real she was amazed when I told her her place is not in the kitchen and I will cook for her too.
she comes from a patriarchal society so its been a real struggle making her speak up and talk about her own feelings.
Thanks, I'll check the link out later on the WiFi. Good luck with your girlfriend but I would suggest that you don't pick a girlfriend due to her race or willingness to go sailing. Best to go for personality match, and make sure you want the same things in life. it will be much better in the long run, whether she's white Asian or African shouldn't matter.
@@WildlingSailing race does not matter to me for me the not wanting to live on a boat and sail is the deal breaker
Mark, your making a rod for your own back mate! Throw the mast into the dock and just motor everywhere, it's a no brainer!
Haha!
Hello Mark, regarding. Your diesel heater, a bit late but interesting see the link! Keep week, happy and laughing!
th-cam.com/video/qV3KsQe7VPI/w-d-xo.html
Started sewing any baby clothes yet?
Haha, nope!