A bit late but a quick lesson in piston diagnosis. If the piston is scratched on the down stroke side you have a tuning issue. If it is scratched on the up stroke side you have a mechanical issue. Ring lands can crack for multiple reasons. Most of the time it's the rings are too big (gapped too small) but it can be a tuning issue related to the scratches on the down stroke side of the piston because the piston is being forced down while out of square to the wall (timing). I'd question the feeler gauges hack as that could be preventing the top of the cylinder expanding causing the rings to snag the wall. Pops and bangs can destroy rings and pistons while causing excessive wear on bearings and is indicated by the scratches on the piston skirt on the down stroke side.. The wrist pin can also be yanked out of the piston which inevitably destroys the block with conrod flailing, essentially cutting the block in half.
That's some good info, thanks for sharing 👍 I'm quite confident that my issues were a combination of excessive backpressure / heat, and still having factory ring gaps. The engine was already failing with low compression and making excessive crank case pressure. I also hadn't used the 2 step limiter until this video either (I needed a thumbnail, obviously 😂) so the engine issues were present already. Interesting thoughts on the feeler gauge shimming too. I've thought this too, however it's been done extensively in these engines and I don't believe anyone has had that issue. Wouldn't you expect to see horizontal witness marks at the top of the cylinder if this was the case? Andy
This won't ever get sold now, the Mrs wouldn't let me if I tried I don't think! And I don't think anyone would pay anything like it's worth for an old Volvo!
Buddy, could you tell me how it is easier to replace the original turbo? Since the one I currently have is already in its last moments and I would like to know how the easiest method is or if it is complicated to remove the lubrication and cooling connections. I would really appreciate your help
Yes it's not a difficult job to remove and replace the stock turbo on these. Just take your time and you'll be ok, there's quite a lot of room to work with.
I actually can't find much info, probably not looking hard enough. I noticed your oil cooler is running upside down. Which seems to be the only way I could run mine when I get one. Does it matter it being upside down like yours? I'm nervous it won't fill properly and gather a small airlock.
There's lots of people that say it can't/ shouldn't be done because it drains back when not running, and causes air locks etc, and many people that say it makes no difference (there are even factory fitted coolers like this). I've had mine like this for 8 years maybe, and the big ends on the old engine looked brand new when I removed it. If there is an issue with running upside down, I haven't personally experienced it. It was a while ago that I fitted it, but I think I primed it first before I fired the engine.
with running so much boost have you not looked into freeing up the air flow because thats a lot of boost for the power figure (yes i know each engine is different) just a thought
Yes, there are most definitely restrictions. On the original engine it could be exhaust manifold, or cams, or inlet manifold... All 3 of which are being replaced on the new engine 👍🏻
@@adamknight9535 yes I did, when it started throwing the dip stick. It was generally poor across the range (but still acceptable) with one cylinder really quite bad. Still sent 2.5 bar 😅
Not sure what you have against these rods? You realize they're generic rebranded rods, exactly the same as the majority of rods available from countless other companies? At the time they were the cheapest source for them, and yes I'd use them again without hesitation. New engine has hurricane I beams, but that's only because I wanted to build that before I took this one apart. Interested to know why you have strong feelings against these rods when there will be 1000's of customers worldwide using their rods without issues?!
@@AndyPonting My point stands. You are half right. They come out of the same factory as many other well known name brand rods. However, MPR receives the quality rejects/the rods that didn't pass QC. Like I said, even $2 ladies have happy customers, but they wouldn't be my first choice.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
Glad you're making use of the frankencompressor, and that is exactly why I welded on spanner 😂
I couldn't even imagine how painful it would be without the extra leverage!
I'd have some the same!
A bit late but a quick lesson in piston diagnosis. If the piston is scratched on the down stroke side you have a tuning issue. If it is scratched on the up stroke side you have a mechanical issue.
Ring lands can crack for multiple reasons. Most of the time it's the rings are too big (gapped too small) but it can be a tuning issue related to the scratches on the down stroke side of the piston because the piston is being forced down while out of square to the wall (timing). I'd question the feeler gauges hack as that could be preventing the top of the cylinder expanding causing the rings to snag the wall.
Pops and bangs can destroy rings and pistons while causing excessive wear on bearings and is indicated by the scratches on the piston skirt on the down stroke side.. The wrist pin can also be yanked out of the piston which inevitably destroys the block with conrod flailing, essentially cutting the block in half.
That's some good info, thanks for sharing 👍
I'm quite confident that my issues were a combination of excessive backpressure / heat, and still having factory ring gaps. The engine was already failing with low compression and making excessive crank case pressure. I also hadn't used the 2 step limiter until this video either (I needed a thumbnail, obviously 😂) so the engine issues were present already.
Interesting thoughts on the feeler gauge shimming too. I've thought this too, however it's been done extensively in these engines and I don't believe anyone has had that issue. Wouldn't you expect to see horizontal witness marks at the top of the cylinder if this was the case?
Andy
That’s 3 engines that cars seen so far. Still got a melted piston from the original on my shelf. Glad to see it still going, awesome work mate!
This won't ever get sold now, the Mrs wouldn't let me if I tried I don't think! And I don't think anyone would pay anything like it's worth for an old Volvo!
@@AndyPonting😂 it’s gonna be a shame to see that beige dash go though
@@spangoolies 😂 it might have already gone!
What model Engine did you put back in? Currently my 2000 S40 is rocking the B4204T2 Engine
New engine is B4194T2
Buddy, could you tell me how it is easier to replace the original turbo? Since the one I currently have is already in its last moments and I would like to know how the easiest method is or if it is complicated to remove the lubrication and cooling connections. I would really appreciate your help
Yes it's not a difficult job to remove and replace the stock turbo on these. Just take your time and you'll be ok, there's quite a lot of room to work with.
@@AndyPonting Do you recommend first removing the exhaust manifold and then removing the oil and coolant lines from there?
@@josearenasgomez326 it can be done without removing the manifold 👍🏻
@@AndyPonting Thank you very much for the advice friend!
I actually can't find much info, probably not looking hard enough. I noticed your oil cooler is running upside down. Which seems to be the only way I could run mine when I get one. Does it matter it being upside down like yours? I'm nervous it won't fill properly and gather a small airlock.
There's lots of people that say it can't/ shouldn't be done because it drains back when not running, and causes air locks etc, and many people that say it makes no difference (there are even factory fitted coolers like this).
I've had mine like this for 8 years maybe, and the big ends on the old engine looked brand new when I removed it. If there is an issue with running upside down, I haven't personally experienced it.
It was a while ago that I fitted it, but I think I primed it first before I fired the engine.
where can I find those rods?
Message me on IG @rwd_saudi. They're still for sale 👍🏻
with running so much boost have you not looked into freeing up the air flow because thats a lot of boost for the power figure (yes i know each engine is different) just a thought
Yes, there are most definitely restrictions. On the original engine it could be exhaust manifold, or cams, or inlet manifold... All 3 of which are being replaced on the new engine 👍🏻
expected whiteblock thing)
This engine was breathing heavily for a long time, I don't know how long it's been running with broken pistons 😂
did you never compression test/leak down test it?@@AndyPonting
@@adamknight9535 yes I did, when it started throwing the dip stick. It was generally poor across the range (but still acceptable) with one cylinder really quite bad. Still sent 2.5 bar 😅
Looks like cracked ringland from too tight of the ring for the horsepower.
That's exactly what I think too 👍🏻 stock ring gaps were never supposed to see that much power/heat
You used MAXPeenerRods? Smh.
Yes and I've had zero issues with them.
@@AndyPonting I mean even $2 ladies have happy customers but I wouldn't go around recommending 'em
Not sure what you have against these rods? You realize they're generic rebranded rods, exactly the same as the majority of rods available from countless other companies?
At the time they were the cheapest source for them, and yes I'd use them again without hesitation.
New engine has hurricane I beams, but that's only because I wanted to build that before I took this one apart.
Interested to know why you have strong feelings against these rods when there will be 1000's of customers worldwide using their rods without issues?!
@@AndyPonting My point stands.
You are half right. They come out of the same factory as many other well known name brand rods. However, MPR receives the quality rejects/the rods that didn't pass QC.
Like I said, even $2 ladies have happy customers, but they wouldn't be my first choice.