Thank you for your video. I am a technician of almost 10 years now and it never stops to amaze me how much you can continue to learn everyday. Thank you for explaining this very simply and professionally.
Thank You Sir, your videos cleared this matter up for me. I'm rebuilding the motor in my wife's '05 Freestar and learning some new stuff with it. You CAN pull the motor from the top. It takes a bit more time, however it can be done. To bad there are so many electronics on vehicles nowadays. Your Tips and instructions are an invaluable source of information, Thanks.
Thank you for these very detailed and easy to follow videos. This will be the third time my syncro will be replaced. The last time I was lucky as far as the install as I didnt have the tool. This time it will be done correctly and without doubt.
I am very happy I found your videos about Cam Pos Sensor! I have been all over YT and some Ford forums trying to find out what the **** I'm trying to do? Thanks a big bunch
Hey thanks a lot for giving me the heads-up about stabbing the crankshaft sensor I was really worried about it but I took the old one out and it was bad because it had a lot of play in it so now I know I'll get it at 15 degrees and put it in I've got it on top dead center on number one and also the manual said number 5 so I should be good and the pointer on the crankshaft is on zero so thanks again what a blessing be blessed Patrick
I usually go for a week of wondering what happened to Duane, before I get my fix with another realfixes realfast video. I know it takes a lot of effort to make these but you gotta know these vids will have value for years to come.
Thank you so much for this video, for I was very confused. The Haynes manual states the synchronizer must be placed CCW 60 degrees from center line. On my 96 Ford Explorer 4.0 OHV the factory synchronizer is actually placed at about 20 degrees CW pointing to the right of center line. Yes, CW, and not CCW as the Haynes manual states. as that is where the wiring harness connector is located. Now that you cleared up the fact that making sure engine was at TDC is the important thing, I feel more comfortable replacing this. Thank you again.
I like the video. A wealth of info. It my understanding that the can synchro is not for spark timing, that is controller by the crank sensor and edis-6 module, but instead to increase the efficiency by better running the during of the injectors. injectors
Billy, your process is fine if your just replacing the cam sync AND the crank has not been turned. If, however the crank has been turned, and/or timing chain replaced, then you will need to confirm that #1 is at TDC
Thank you for this explanation. I have been having timing problem with my camshaft position sensor setting on my 99 mercury mountaineer. I will double check what I did. cheers
If you study it for a couple seconds you'll see there is a pattern. The screen doesn't show the continuation of the pattern that repeats but it's there. The first red cam spike is the same as the last on the scope. If the screen showed another blue crank spike it would be easier to follow. I thought the same thing and paused on it to study it. There is a pattern and the two signals are in sync. Take another look at it, you'll get it.
No Disrespect to the host of the video at all. I am a DIYer and I did this on my 2001 Ford Taurus without the plastic tool. The replacement of the Cam Position Sensor is very simple. Just 2 important points. 1) Purchase a Motorcraft Made in the USA replacement part. No Chinese import part. Or you will be doing another replacement in 3 months. 2) Prior to removing the old CPS, Mark the position of the CPS with white out, or a Sharpie pen. Then replace the sensor in the same location.
These are the greatest videos on this subject.I do have a question pertaining to crankshaft,damper, exciter ring and the relationship to tdc. I cannot find any clear reference for lining up tdc on no 1. Yes there is a TDC mark on the damper but it is exactly 5 teeth beyond the missing tooth on the exciter ring. Which should be lined up?
yea ok your right. the crank has the smaller gear and the camshaft has the larger one. so yes 2 crank revolutions to every 1 of the cam.... had a derp moment
Having said all that I think your videos are great, and I have 45 yrs experience in a garage, so my thoughts are more towards British cars as I am English Fred.
I agree, I'm confused too. The ratio of big deflections (at 2:33 of the video) is exactly 1.5 red for every 1 big blue, and about 32 fine blue to each big blue cycle. Maybe the 32 is a multiple of the number of cylinders, or maybe it's just a baseline sensor frequency? I hope this springboards into another video.
no the crank makes 1 turn cause the gear on it is bigger. the cam turns twice cause it has a smaller gear. there ratio is usually 2:1 think of it like gears on a bike. the front sproket is smaller than the rear sprocket on the tire. if the gears are 2:1 on the bike then when you make 2 whole revolutions with the pedals you are turning the back tire one full revolution.
Yes on that point you are correct. I had to replace my sensor because the engine was making a chirping sound. My mechanic replaced the serpentine belt and tensioner, but the sound did not go away. Google search revealed the CPS fix is a common Ford issue. Also I read much about the cheap knock off replacement CPS parts from China. I make it a point to stay away from the Chinese parts!
Hi there, just 2 points, Duane, as the man said if the crankshaft turns once, the camshaft turns 1/2 way around, i.e. one revolution of the camshaft is 2 on the crankshaft, the other thing when finding TDC with a screwdriver how did you know it was on number one compression and not number 4 exhaust, pistons are in the same place on a 4 cylinder engine, although saying that you did use a compression whistle pipe I believe,,but you can also look where the rotor arm is pointing, to which cylinder,
These modern engines actually get timed off of the crankshaft position sensor. What the cam synchronizer does is to tell the computer which group of cylinders need to be fired on a particular crankshaft rotation. On a Ford V-8 for example with a firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 the pulse from the cam synchronizer happens when cylinder 1 is at TDC of the compression stroke. Using this information the computer then knows that cylinders 1-5-4-2 need to be fired during the current crankshaft rotation and it also knows that on the subsequent crankshaft rotation cylinders 6-3-7-8 need to be fired. The only thing the cam synchronizer really does is resolve the ambiguity between one half the cylinders firing and the other half. If you didn't have the synchronizer then the computer would get confused and not know which set of 4 injectors and 4 spark plugs to operate during the current rotation of the crankshaft. Essentially it keeps the operation of the valves (which are being driven by the camshaft) and the action of the injectors and plugs synchronized and coordinated. However, exactly when each cylinder receives fuel and spark so it can fire is still determined by the position information that the computer is getting off of the crankshaft position sensor.
@@chocolatetampon4492- If what I'm hearing is correct you can take the synchroniser back out again then put the engine's number one cylinder top dead center and then put the syncronizer back in. Just make sure that the connector to the sensor is not being stretched out.
If it works like the ones fitted to Australian (Oz) made 6 cylinder cars (Falcons etc) it doesn't matter. As the Oz factory manuals say: "the actual adjustment of the CMP (camshaft position) sensor is not critical as its purpose is only to identify which part of the cycle cylinder number 1 is in." This is sometimes incorrectly interpreted as meaning proper working of the CMP is not critical. This is not the correct interpretation; in fact it means that unlike the distributor that usually sits there, the actual position of the CMP is not critical. The manual goes on to explain further: " The CMP rising edge must occur between 5 degrees BTDC (cylinder 1 and 45 degrees ATDC (cylinder 1) ." In essence unlike a distributor that needs to be fitted within plus or minus a degree there is an awful lot of tolerance in fitting the CMP relative to timing. In any event, the module on top of the CMP is what fails in Oz cars and it can be replaced without pulling it out or risking moving the position of the CMP shaft and gear relative to the cam gears. It may look like a distributor and use the same drive arrangement but it is not a distributor.
As long as that little tab is located in the exact same position then you will be OK. The 15 degree mark is only important if you are rebuilding an engine. The 15 degree stuff is the only legal way for the service manual to describe the procedure. The host of the video is following the service manual and there is nothing wrong with that procedure. Just don't get too caught up with it. You should also take a picture of the part after you have marked it with a pen or whiteout.
Hello there, is there an alignment tool for the older three wire with the window? (94' Ranger 4.0) All the info I can find is using a 34mm mark etc and using a volt meter for a 0-12v reference.
another one of fords great ideas. Most of these car manufactures don't take into account their shit breaks, and will need to be fixed. Just look at a timing belt in a pt cruiser, and the large ass bracket that has to come out of a space just a few inches wide.
On my 98 mazda B4000, even with the throttle body removed, you can't use the yellow alignment cap when installing the synchronizer. It's too tall and won't allow the synchronizer to get in proper alignment for it to seat properly. This is the third one I've put in my truck. I just get the #1 cylinder at TDC and eyeball it to get the tab to line up as if the install alignment tool were on. I'll sell this truck before I ever install another. Major pita.
What happens if you don’t put it at top dead center ? Just pulled marked the top of the synchronizer as a reference, yanked it out, marked the new one then I slammed dunked the new one in the same position if not it’s pretty close to the same position
Actually at 2:12, it's supposed to be the camshaft makes 1 revolution for every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft because the camshaft gear has twice as many teeth as the crankshaft gear. By gear, I mean the gears that the timing chain connect.
Installed sync and turned motor over to ensure the tools position had returned and it is NOT a two to one ratio on that sensor so you absolutely need the tdc on comp stroke
How do I get the engine to #1 top dead center? 🤔 is that the #1 piston at its highest point?confused ...My dad truck he has passed away10 yrs ago and I'd like to fix this issue. And drive it. Squeak Squeak Squeak is loud embarrassing sounding.
I have done what you said, I have installed a rebuilt 4.0 motor (long block new heads and all) into a 99 ford ranger, put the motor at TDC, installed the synchronizer (using the alignment tool) at approx. 15 degrees.. but I am getting a code P1309 that I have never got on the old motor. Any suggestions?
Good videos , my only question is I'm replacing a cam synchronizer on a 99 fors f150 with a 4.2 engine the oil stick that goes to the pump pulled out with it cannot get the new one or old one to go back in no matter where I position it any tips for that
reteece holy fuck thank you guys so damn much I've been looking for this exact info for hours! How to retime if I messed up inserting the camshaft position. The only fucking the be doesn't mention lol thank you!
I'm about to start this but my point is that everybody just roboticly replaces parts when they have a code. I was wondering if there is a way to externally check the sensor before I pull everything off and find that it's fine and there was a wire off or a broken connector somewhere else -You know -the old proper diagnosis?
Let it be know that all the information in this video about the synchronizer is assuming that the motor has a timing chain. Most modern cars don’t have timing chains anymore in v6 and v8 motors.
Hello, I did as you stated and my replacement went in well. Stabbed censor in exact placement as it came out. Car ran fine right after but now after running for 30 minutes it is faulting a tiny bit and the Check Engine light just came on. Any ideas?
Replaced this on my 04 jeep wrangler ..timing chain was aligned properly and at TDC however the synchronizer didnt just fall into place .. did some turning to my scy for it to go in on my previous Marks ..engine light was off then on then back to being off is there still something off with my timing ?
I replaced the timing cover gaskets on my 2005 f150 4.2L v6. Well i didn't mark the position of the cam sensor. I have brought it up to TDC and installed the cam sensor assy. Truck turns on but doesn't accelerate ,starts missing. Should i get the calibration tool? truck was running fine before i touched it :-/
i put in camshaft synchronizer today 03 sable. all went well for awhile. the timing is good. but now the oil light is on. i ran for a minute or two and turned off. when taking old one out. i looked in hole and saw what looked the oil pump shaft sitting straight up as should. does the shaft move out of its place when pulling out synchronizer? What could have happened. what do i look for
would if I stab the synchronizer with the engine in the truck how do I know if it is on number 1.93 ford ranger 4.0 v6 do I have to remove the upper intake manifold to get it in.
okay this a question I have I'm running a ford 2.3 turbo I'm using a 60-2 triger wheel set on tooth #11 for crank signal trying to use my old distributor as a cam signal I cut 3teeth and left one for sinal now I now the cam signal has to happen bedore the crank signal but ho much sooner 10* 30* 40* i ask i dont want to spray my valves or be so late on fuel.
On a 05 Buick Terraza, does the computer have anything to do with a locked ignition and the steering remained unlocked. Put in key, headlights come on but unable to turn key to start car. Car drove fine when parked. Did have some dashboard warning lights when driven..
If you note the exact position of that tooth before you remove the old one, you can just install the new one in the exact same spot and it'll be just fine. No need for that tool or anything.
HAVE you come across a STUCK camshaft synchronizer situation...my 95 4.0 OHV is stuck....lubricated overnight..etc..etc... will not come out...pull/ turn etc...no go... tied strong twine around and yank up with wood handle still not luck... in back of engine and still have lower intake on... any suggestions? ...have you had this happen? Thanks!
Not sure if it was as bad as your sounds but we did have one stuck pretty bad. Soaked it with PB Blaster over weekend, then used a air chisel as a vibration several times, then was finally able to get it to move, let it soak another night, then it came out. Good luck
It sounds like you are saying that it does not matter whether the #1 is at top dead center at compression stroke or the exhaust stroke as long as it is at TDC. Is that correct?
Another ASE patch and not a clue what you are talking about. It most certainly does matter that the engine is positioned at #1 TDC on the compression stroke along with the synchronizer installed with its tooth aligned in the window of the sync body. The ECM uses the cam sensor for one reason and that’s to know where #1 TDC compression stroke is so it can properly sync the fuel injection and ignition timing properly and you should know this but it’s clear that you don’t fully understand how the system works. If the cam sensor/sync assembly were to be installed with the engine on #1 TDC on the wrong stroke the ECM will fire the injectors and ignition at the wrong time. Please refrain from making instructional videos when you yourself don’t know what you’re talking about because someone will blindly follow wrong information which could lead to them damaging an engine due to improper timing of the fuel and ignition system. You should make another follow up video apologizing for spreading false info and take that ASE patch and deposit it into the waste basket.
When you say "stab" the syncronizer into the engine when it's at Top Dead Center on #1 Cylinder,..shouldn't you be saying "Top Dead Center on #1 Cylinder's COMPRESSION STROKE" ?
Thank you for your video. I am a technician of almost 10 years now and it never stops to amaze me how much you can continue to learn everyday. Thank you for explaining this very simply and professionally.
Thank you sir, that cleared up 100% of my confusion and hesitation with all that degrees non sense..
Thank You Sir, your videos cleared this matter up for me. I'm rebuilding the motor in my wife's '05 Freestar and learning some new stuff with it. You CAN pull the motor from the top. It takes a bit more time, however it can be done. To bad there are so many electronics on vehicles nowadays. Your Tips and instructions are an invaluable source of information, Thanks.
Thank you for these very detailed and easy to follow videos. This will be the third time my syncro will be replaced. The last time I was lucky as far as the install as I didnt have the tool. This time it will be done correctly and without doubt.
Gracias Master excelente información y muy útil
I am very happy I found your videos about Cam Pos Sensor! I have been all over YT and some Ford forums trying to find out what the **** I'm trying to do? Thanks a big bunch
glad it helped. Some times our old habits get in the way.
Hey thanks a lot for giving me the heads-up about stabbing the crankshaft sensor I was really worried about it but I took the old one out and it was bad because it had a lot of play in it so now I know I'll get it at 15 degrees and put it in I've got it on top dead center on number one and also the manual said number 5 so I should be good and the pointer on the crankshaft is on zero so thanks again what a blessing be blessed Patrick
I give you FIVE Air Guns for this video! aka thumbs UP!
Outstanding explanation.
I enjoy watching your videos.
I usually go for a week of wondering what happened to Duane, before I get my fix with another realfixes realfast video. I know it takes a lot of effort to make these but you gotta know these vids will have value for years to come.
Thank you so much for this video, for I was very confused. The Haynes manual states the synchronizer must be placed CCW 60 degrees from center line. On my 96 Ford Explorer 4.0 OHV the factory synchronizer is actually placed at about 20 degrees CW pointing to the right of center line. Yes, CW, and not CCW as the Haynes manual states. as that is where the wiring harness connector is located. Now that you cleared up the fact that making sure engine was at TDC is the important thing, I feel more comfortable replacing this. Thank you again.
I like the video. A wealth of info. It my understanding that the can synchro is not for spark timing, that is controller by the crank sensor and edis-6 module, but instead to increase the efficiency by better running the during of the injectors. injectors
thanks, i was a bit confused about the 15 degree stuff. You are very helpful. The best how-of all the ones on you tube
The best videos comes from you. Thank you
Ah. Great! This makes sense. Thank you, Sir!
Just subscribed! Best explanation to installing the cam synchronizer. Thank you!
Billy, your process is fine if your just replacing the cam sync AND the crank has not been turned. If, however the crank has been turned, and/or timing chain replaced, then you will need to confirm that #1 is at TDC
Thank you for this explanation. I have been having timing problem with my camshaft position sensor setting on my 99 mercury mountaineer. I will double check what I did. cheers
Thank you for the follow up cause I thought it could cause and engine malfunction but the degree has to to with the sensor connection fitting properly
well done, really enjoy your videos and the help they put out.
Thank you, for your informative video sir. It was greatly appreciated
I finally get it! I was so confused until 3:50 then the penny dropped. It's so simple :-)
Great follow up!
If you study it for a couple seconds you'll see there is a pattern. The screen doesn't show the continuation of the pattern that repeats but it's there. The first red cam spike is the same as the last on the scope. If the screen showed another blue crank spike it would be easier to follow. I thought the same thing and paused on it to study it. There is a pattern and the two signals are in sync. Take another look at it, you'll get it.
No Disrespect to the host of the video at all. I am a DIYer and I did this on my 2001 Ford Taurus without the plastic tool. The replacement of the Cam Position Sensor is very simple. Just 2 important points.
1) Purchase a Motorcraft Made in the USA replacement part. No Chinese import part. Or you will be doing another replacement in 3 months.
2) Prior to removing the old CPS, Mark the position of the CPS with white out, or a Sharpie pen. Then replace the sensor in the same location.
well that just made the whole process easy!
Excellent follow up.
I truly thank you for this video it has been a great help.
Crank makes 2 revolutions for every one revolution of the cam. Just wanted to clarify that.
This cleared everything up. Thanks again.
These are the greatest videos on this subject.I do have a question pertaining to crankshaft,damper, exciter ring and the relationship to tdc. I cannot find any clear reference for lining up tdc on no 1. Yes there is a TDC mark on the damper but it is exactly 5 teeth beyond the missing tooth on the exciter ring. Which should be lined up?
yea ok your right. the crank has the smaller gear and the camshaft has the larger one. so yes 2 crank revolutions to every 1 of the cam.... had a derp moment
Thanks goodness I reinstalled mine correctly without the tool and getting the engine at TDC
Nice explanation, hope you are well.
Having said all that I think your videos are great, and I have 45 yrs experience in a garage, so my thoughts are more towards British cars as I am English Fred.
I agree, I'm confused too. The ratio of big deflections (at 2:33 of the video) is exactly 1.5 red for every 1 big blue, and about 32 fine blue to each big blue cycle. Maybe the 32 is a multiple of the number of cylinders, or maybe it's just a baseline sensor frequency? I hope this springboards into another video.
glad you cleared all that up.
you are the best Sir, No doubt about it.
You should put the link to the first video in you description. TH-cam puts to many other video suggestions.
no the crank makes 1 turn cause the gear on it is bigger. the cam turns twice cause it has a smaller gear. there ratio is usually 2:1 think of it like gears on a bike. the front sproket is smaller than the rear sprocket on the tire. if the gears are 2:1 on the bike then when you make 2 whole revolutions with the pedals you are turning the back tire one full revolution.
Excellent explanation!
Yes on that point you are correct. I had to replace my sensor because the engine was making a chirping sound. My mechanic replaced the serpentine belt and tensioner, but the sound did not go away. Google search revealed the CPS fix is a common Ford issue. Also I read much about the cheap knock off replacement CPS parts from China. I make it a point to stay away from the Chinese parts!
Thanks for the video on synchronizer. I am wondering if the synchronizer could be used to diagnose a stretched timing chain?
Hi there, just 2 points, Duane, as the man said if the crankshaft turns once, the camshaft turns 1/2 way around, i.e. one revolution of the camshaft is 2 on the crankshaft, the other thing when finding TDC with a screwdriver how did you know it was on number one compression and not number 4 exhaust, pistons are in the same place on a 4 cylinder engine, although saying that you did use a compression whistle pipe I believe,,but you can also look where the rotor arm is pointing, to which cylinder,
Great video as always Duane! I noticed in your description that you used the % sign instead of the ° symbol. I know this isn't much to mention, but for those you don't know how to enter special symbols such as ©, ®, ±, µ, ½ and so on, it's pretty simple. Start up the program called "Charmap.exe" without the quotes. Select your font, click on the symbol, click on the Select button and then the Copy button. Finally, go back to wherever you want the symbol and press Ctrl + V to paste the symbol.
great video, helped me a lot, thanks, learn a great deal from you.
Great video. I got a new one ordered. Should be a easy swap. Thank you.
These modern engines actually get timed off of the crankshaft position sensor. What the cam synchronizer does is to tell the computer which group of cylinders need to be fired on a particular crankshaft rotation. On a Ford V-8 for example with a firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 the pulse from the cam synchronizer happens when cylinder 1 is at TDC of the compression stroke. Using this information the computer then knows that cylinders 1-5-4-2 need to be fired during the current crankshaft rotation and it also knows that on the subsequent crankshaft rotation cylinders 6-3-7-8 need to be fired.
The only thing the cam synchronizer really does is resolve the ambiguity between one half the cylinders firing and the other half. If you didn't have the synchronizer then the computer would get confused and not know which set of 4 injectors and 4 spark plugs to operate during the current rotation of the crankshaft. Essentially it keeps the operation of the valves (which are being driven by the camshaft) and the action of the injectors and plugs synchronized and coordinated. However, exactly when each cylinder receives fuel and spark so it can fire is still determined by the position information that the computer is getting off of the crankshaft position sensor.
Joe Vignolo so if I installed it wrong how would I correct the timing?
@@chocolatetampon4492- If what I'm hearing is correct you can take the synchroniser back out again then put the engine's number one cylinder top dead center and then put the syncronizer back in. Just make sure that the connector to the sensor is not being stretched out.
excelente 👌
The number of teeth in the attached gears shows that for every 1 rotation of the crank, the cam should rotate twice.
Nice job making that clear. Thank you for these vids.
If it works like the ones fitted to Australian (Oz) made 6 cylinder cars (Falcons etc) it doesn't matter. As the Oz factory manuals say: "the actual adjustment of the CMP (camshaft position) sensor is not critical as its purpose is only to identify which part of the cycle cylinder number 1 is in." This is sometimes incorrectly interpreted as meaning proper working of the CMP is not critical. This is not the correct interpretation; in fact it means that unlike the distributor that usually sits there, the actual position of the CMP is not critical.
The manual goes on to explain further: " The CMP rising edge must occur between 5 degrees BTDC (cylinder 1 and 45 degrees ATDC (cylinder 1) ."
In essence unlike a distributor that needs to be fitted within plus or minus a degree there is an awful lot of tolerance in fitting the CMP relative to timing. In any event, the module on top of the CMP is what fails in Oz cars and it can be replaced without pulling it out or risking moving the position of the CMP shaft and gear relative to the cam gears. It may look like a distributor and use the same drive arrangement but it is not a distributor.
As long as that little tab is located in the exact same position then you will be OK. The 15 degree mark is only important if you are rebuilding an engine. The 15 degree stuff is the only legal way for the service manual to describe the procedure. The host of the video is following the service manual and there is nothing wrong with that procedure. Just don't get too caught up with it. You should also take a picture of the part after you have marked it with a pen or whiteout.
thanks for the confirmation! installing new & didn't make marks on old one. Tdc on cy # 1. Cheers
Hello there, is there an alignment tool for the older three wire with the window? (94' Ranger 4.0) All the info I can find is using a 34mm mark etc and using a volt meter for a 0-12v reference.
another one of fords great ideas. Most of these car manufactures don't take into account their shit breaks, and will need to be fixed. Just look at a timing belt in a pt cruiser, and the large ass bracket that has to come out of a space just a few inches wide.
On my 98 mazda B4000, even with the throttle body removed, you can't use the yellow alignment cap when installing the synchronizer. It's too tall and won't allow the synchronizer to get in proper alignment for it to seat properly. This is the third one I've put in my truck. I just get the #1 cylinder at TDC and eyeball it to get the tab to line up as if the install alignment tool were on. I'll sell this truck before I ever install another. Major pita.
Thanks very helpful
When you replace the chain you'll have to line up the marks on the crank and cam gears to their appropriate position.
What happens if you don’t put it at top dead center ? Just pulled marked the top of the synchronizer as a reference, yanked it out, marked the new one then I slammed dunked the new one in the same position if not it’s pretty close to the same position
Actually at 2:12, it's supposed to be the camshaft makes 1 revolution for every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft because the camshaft gear has twice as many teeth as the crankshaft gear. By gear, I mean the gears that the timing chain connect.
😂😂😂
Installed sync and turned motor over to ensure the tools position had returned and it is NOT a two to one ratio on that sensor so you absolutely need the tdc on comp stroke
But your explanation helped me out just figured I would share that bit with you
How do I get the engine to #1 top dead center? 🤔 is that the #1 piston at its highest point?confused ...My dad truck he has passed away10 yrs ago and I'd like to fix this issue. And drive it. Squeak Squeak Squeak is loud embarrassing sounding.
I have done what you said, I have installed a rebuilt 4.0 motor (long block new heads and all) into a 99 ford ranger, put the motor at TDC, installed the synchronizer (using the alignment tool) at approx. 15 degrees.. but I am getting a code P1309 that I have never got on the old motor. Any suggestions?
Good videos , my only question is I'm replacing a cam synchronizer on a 99 fors f150 with a 4.2 engine the oil stick that goes to the pump pulled out with it cannot get the new one or old one to go back in no matter where I position it any tips for that
I would like to add something about my last comment. If the magnet moves freely while it still in my 03 ford ranger 3.0 should I be worried.
How do you get the #1 cylinder to TDC on a 2004 taurus v6? The spark plug holes are sideways and #1 cylinder is between the fire wall and block.
on an OHV V6 engine. There is a timing mark in the crankshaft pulley that should align in the pointer indicating cylinder 1 is in the top dead center.
Correct. It is tooth number 6 after the missing tooth gap on the tone ring.
reteece holy fuck thank you guys so damn much I've been looking for this exact info for hours! How to retime if I messed up inserting the camshaft position. The only fucking the be doesn't mention lol thank you!
I'm about to start this but my point is that everybody just roboticly replaces parts when they have a code. I was wondering if there is a way to externally check the sensor before I pull everything off and find that it's fine and there was a wire off or a broken connector somewhere else -You know -the old proper diagnosis?
By the way, very helpful video! I have changed distributors before but this is my first Synchronizer.
good job
You could install the sensor and aling it all before the sync and sensor is installed
Let it be know that all the information in this video about the synchronizer is assuming that the motor has a timing chain. Most modern cars don’t have timing chains anymore in v6 and v8 motors.
do you need to lubricate the new synchronizer with oil before putting it in?
Hello, I did as you stated and my replacement went in well. Stabbed censor in exact placement as it came out. Car ran fine right after but now after running for 30 minutes it is faulting a tiny bit and the Check Engine light just came on. Any ideas?
GOOD VIDEO
If I put the engine on TDC and then take out the old synchronizer installing the new one in, in the same peg position, wouldn't that align it?
Replaced this on my 04 jeep wrangler ..timing chain was aligned properly and at TDC however the synchronizer didnt just fall into place .. did some turning to my scy for it to go in on my previous Marks ..engine light was off then on then back to being off is there still something off with my timing ?
I replaced the timing cover gaskets on my 2005 f150 4.2L v6. Well i didn't mark the position of the cam sensor. I have brought it up to TDC and installed the cam sensor assy. Truck turns on but doesn't accelerate ,starts missing. Should i get the calibration tool? truck was running fine before i touched it :-/
i put in camshaft synchronizer today 03 sable. all went well for awhile. the timing is good. but now the oil light is on. i ran for a minute or two and turned off. when taking old one out. i looked in hole and saw what looked the oil pump shaft sitting straight up as should. does the shaft move out of its place when pulling out synchronizer? What could have happened. what do i look for
would if I stab the synchronizer with the engine in the truck how do I know if it is on number 1.93 ford ranger 4.0 v6 do I have to remove the upper intake manifold to get it in.
okay this a question I have I'm running a ford 2.3 turbo I'm using a 60-2 triger wheel set on tooth #11 for crank signal trying to use my old distributor as a cam signal I cut 3teeth and left one for sinal now I now the cam signal has to happen bedore the crank signal but ho much sooner 10* 30* 40* i ask i dont want to spray my valves or be so late on fuel.
I know there's a pattern, but shouldn't it be 1-2 not 1-1.5?
On a 05 Buick Terraza, does the computer have anything to do with a locked ignition and the steering remained unlocked. Put in key, headlights come on but unable to turn key to start car. Car drove fine when parked. Did have some dashboard warning lights when driven..
can you instal a cam synchronizer on a old school mengine... like on a 351c or a 427 ford...
thank you
hello Sir,can you help me pls,my car is 2005 ford freestar,the problem is,there is oil coming out from the camshaft synchronizer.what should i do?
If you note the exact position of that tooth before you remove the old one, you can just install the new one in the exact same spot and it'll be just fine. No need for that tool or anything.
o i have a question... can i install a cam synchronizer in a 78 ford 4.9L engine....
Should it not be crankshaft does 2 revolutions for every 1 of camshaft????
HAVE you come across a STUCK camshaft synchronizer situation...my 95 4.0 OHV is stuck....lubricated overnight..etc..etc... will not come out...pull/ turn etc...no go... tied strong twine around and yank up with wood handle still not luck... in back of engine and still have lower intake on... any suggestions? ...have you had this happen? Thanks!
Not sure if it was as bad as your sounds but we did have one stuck pretty bad. Soaked it with PB Blaster over weekend, then used a air chisel as a vibration several times, then was finally able to get it to move, let it soak another night, then it came out. Good luck
@@realfixesrealfast Thanks!....mine is really bad... going for your air chisel application!
What's it mean, when you take off the senser and the magnet has free play. I already took the oil pump out to find out the rod has free play.
Oh, thanks for these videos! There great.
Think you could be right :-P , most engines i have worked on any how.
my bad the front gear is bigger than the back. same thing though
It sounds like you are saying that it does not matter whether the #1 is at top dead center at compression stroke or the exhaust stroke as long as it is at TDC. Is that correct?
Yes
@@williamburke09 Finally. Been trying to confirm this. Would be so easy to say this in his explanation.
cool
Another ASE patch and not a clue what you are talking about. It most certainly does matter that the engine is positioned at #1 TDC on the compression stroke along with the synchronizer installed with its tooth aligned in the window of the sync body. The ECM uses the cam sensor for one reason and that’s to know where #1 TDC compression stroke is so it can properly sync the fuel injection and ignition timing properly and you should know this but it’s clear that you don’t fully understand how the system works. If the cam sensor/sync assembly were to be installed with the engine on #1 TDC on the wrong stroke the ECM will fire the injectors and ignition at the wrong time. Please refrain from making instructional videos when you yourself don’t know what you’re talking about because someone will blindly follow wrong information which could lead to them damaging an engine due to improper timing of the fuel and ignition system. You should make another follow up video apologizing for spreading false info and take that ASE patch and deposit it into the waste basket.
When you say "stab" the syncronizer into the engine when it's at Top Dead Center on
#1 Cylinder,..shouldn't you be saying "Top Dead Center on #1 Cylinder's COMPRESSION STROKE" ?
I think outside the box
You said the camshaft makes 2 revolutions for every revolution of the crankshaft. I believe you said that backwards.
Correct
No think you got this wrong. Definately 2 crankshaft revolutions to every 1 of camshafts.
will hope u c this post.ok on the Manuel it say to have it at 10 digress not at 0 help