I am about to buy a Big 20, the owner said it does not weld but runs, you gave me some great points to start trouble shooting. Thank you and God bless.
Good info. I’ve got a late ‘70’s Big 40 with the same problem you had. Ordered the rheostat. Greens welding shop in Granbury Texas can locate a lot of parts for these. In that cold country where you’re at be sure and set that breather tube outlet with about a 1/2” air gap so it’ll pull heat off that manifold to keep carb from icing up. This is my 2nd Big 40. They are very strong machines indeed. Thanks
Thank you for this video. I think that the rheostat in my Lincoln welder/generator is bad. But until I found your video, I could not find one which explained how to test a rheostat. Really appreciate your help!
I appreciate you doing this video, you are correct too. There are not a lot of videos about these Miller big 40’s. So I thank you for doing this one. Really enjoying your videos sir, keep up the great work and I will keep watching them
I bought a big 40 out of a junkyard that had been sitting for over 10 years. Had to rebuild the carb, new coil, and replace 2 of the 6 diodes. I love that thing, and it sounds exactly like this one.
The most excited I have seen you... great job getting her going again! Loved the camera angle when we could see inside the tube you were welding... as you got close to the end of that weld, the light got less bright... super cool! As always, take care, and God Bless my friend!
Excellent video !!! And you are correct that there are not a lot of videos about the Big 40. You have definitely helped me with one of the problems for sure. I accidentally come across you when I typed in the Continental motor. Very thankful for your knowledge with the welder. Thanks again for sharing your videos sir.
Good job bud on keeping the old stuff going. True to your name. The patena on an old machine like that is awesome. Now you can have some ac power out of one machine
Glad you got this machine going!!! I've had to endure lectures about the Big 40 versus the SA 200, but to me they're both good welders and share the same wonderful F-163 engine. And there's plenty of videos about imported wall machines, but as an owner of two SA 200s I'm more interested to see content about the older engine driven welders. Would ESPECIALLY appreciate a rebuild video on the SA 200. Many thanks for sharing your enthusiasm on these old workhorses.
You likely just need to burnish the old rheostat. Use a little sand paper and clean up the brush race. You may also have to retention the brush wiper arm so it makes solid contact. Nonetheless it is exciting to get an old piece of machinery resurrected. Good video.
Loved the video , i had an old 48 Lincoln short hood that had the best arc I ever did weld with but as time went on I needed something a little newer so I sold it and bought a 1976 miller big 40 and right away I noticed that its arc wasent quite as nice seemed a little more choppy , but now im used to it and I can weld with it just fine . Just this winter i had a little trouble with the 40 wouldn't weld or power after several minutes of workin on it it started to weld as if nothing was wrong . just means gota do maintenance on it someplace i guess . so thanks for showing us some of the ins and outs of this great old work horse B
Aye I think the same thing, about the Lincolns. The big 40 is a good machine, but your right it is very different. My dad has a mid 70's blue star, and it welds very similar to the big 40. It is like they have a cold start if you know what I mean. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the Video, I have a Miller Big 40 that I'm working slowly at restoring. This Video is helpful. I'll be reading through the Comments to see what I glen. Ray King
Glad to see it going again! We have a big 20 at work that is cantankerous as hell. However, after setting the ac voltage and frequency at the ac outlet with a multimeter it started to act somewhat right. Also I cleaned the back of the rheostat with a black black or white pearl eraser, she started showing some promise. Burned about 5lbs of rod through it and things got Cadillac smooth. The biggest problem is ethanol in the fuel. It swells the cheap foam carb (Walbro) up. When I bought the float from McDonalds carb and ignition I asked them if it was ethanol proof and they told me that they had not received any complaints yet. Well guess what happened after 6 months. Yep..., the float swelled up. But all in all, I think McDonalds is a good reputable business and i would buy from them again in the future. The engine on our big20 (military issue big 20) is a Teledyne model 4 cylinder. And equipped with a polycarbonate float Walbro carb. The only fix is a new zenith carb with a brass float or find no Fethonal fuel. Thank goodness for a Lincoln SA-200. Download a big40 manual. It will tell you how to get the volt/freq at the AC to line up with the correct engine speed. Yes, your big 40 sounds like it is running at lower than normal. As far as the not idle up under load. I can only guess that the sense circuit is not sensing load. Could be as simple as dirty connections. You can always clean the slip rings with Emery cloth. But never sandpaper. All the best! John
Nice job bud, I wondered if you were ever gonna get to your 40. I had a rheostat go out on my Ranger 10 (weld ok but low on gen power) and the tech said to always replace the remote switch at the same time. I don't know if your 40 has a remote switch, but food for thought. Great job though! And get in there and clean all the connections! Maybe that'll help with your idle up issue.
Cut n dry on the Electrical for a learner on the m/m I'm a Lincoln fan 100% but the miller 40 has bailed me out a time or two . I've got 2 millers f163 .4 Lincoln pipelines . 1 250 Lincoln Perkins . Added a new sd520 Lincoln to the bunch 2 ln 25 s lincolns 3 ideal arcs shop models with ln 7s ideal arc 250 Lincoln with high freq and one f163 engine in a Clark fork lift great video
Only thing or would have been nice if u could have shown the exact problem with the reostat. Ive got a reostat that is open, will attempt to silver solder it to repair it. Also the reostat controls voltage not amperage. The more voltage output from the reostat to the exciter winding gives u more amperage output at the stick. I felt ur excitement, good video and thanks for posting.
Make that only video I know the feeling bro. I got a older Komatsu WA250-3L loaders that's needs brake,clutch master booster rebuild. Like your welder.
Nice! Just got mine running after sitting for a while but no power. Cleaned the stator (if that's what its called) n brushes. Still no power anywhere. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I know it's been awhile since you posted this video but I was wondering if you could tell me where the wire on my left of that corn cob resistor goes? I've recently acquired one of these and it has no wiring on it I worked out most of it that's like this last peace going into the rheostat I think any help you could give me would be greatly appreciate it thank you
Yes! Glad ya got her burning. The old big 40s run 7018 with the best of them. They can do carbon arcing till your cables melt. They are fuel thirsty very thirsty. Sadly few generator end parts are available. Miller corporation are you listening ?
Are there any numbers on the Starter I have one with the 4 cylinder continental Engine starter that’s on mine the solenoid is not in the right position for the oil dipstick will not fit properly
Big thanks for the idea of checking (and how) the rheostat. I've got a 250G Trailblazer that has the same symptoms you mentioned. Also, I know welders need to be running at the correct RPMs, plus or minus 100, otherwise weld arc gets funny. One way to check RPMs can be to check voltage at 120 outlet and adjust tensioner spring nut, if the diesel has one. Nevermind, saw next video and looks like you've got it welding just fine. Bravo!
Bruised Orange thanks for watching. Aye I had to work on the governor a little bit to bring the rpms up to 1800 after that it welded great. Let me know if you get your welder fixed, and good luck.
@@Mgrand99 Check the field current circuit board. Mine had bad solder connections at the pinouts for the wires connecting to the circuit board. I cleaned of the coating w/ some alcohol if I remember correctly and the re-soldered the joints, and fixed that problem. Cold solder joint seemed to be an issue Miller had in the late 80's, early 90's welders.
♫my pappy said son you're gonna drive me to drinkin if you don't stop weldin with that hot rod Lincoln♫ You mentioning cold made me think of something the township in northern Ontario used to do in the winter. Up there it goes to minus 50 and stays there for months so of course water pipes freeze. My water, when I lived at the edge of town, came across the snowmobile trail so when they drove over it they drove the frost down deep enough to freeze my water supply. The township had a mobile welder that they hooked up to the supply on one end and the pipe where it entered my basement at the other end. In about 2 or 3 minutes the pipe would thaw and my water would be running again. I know it seems extreme but when the cold is so extreme that's what it takes.
hi just got a welder like yours looking for a manual for it, can you send a link i beleive you said you found one . been trying for awhile can't seem to find it.
I bought it as a back up unit for my other welders. I’ve used it some but it is a finicky Machine it works but you have to baby it a lot. Idler control always stayed messed up. And it’s bad cold natured. Never could get it to burn a 6010 very well. It’s gotten me out of a jam a couple of times but not a machine I don’t wanna run every day.
It has three connection points on the Rheostat but while facing it the far left one isn’t connected nor does it have a wire for it to connect to. Not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to be it won’t weld just little sparks
Hey thanks for the video. I got an older Polyequip Mosa. Used to run great. Fired it up yesterday and ran a good 2 hours. All of a sudden it went dead. I can start it up but will shut down in 30 seconds or less. For some reason, the gauges are dead too so i am working blind and can't figure what is going on. Any pointers anyone?
I’ve got one too. Check the rheostat with a ohm meter and see if you have 0-56 ohms just like I did in this video. If you do try flashing the fields with a 12v battery (look up how to do that) if that doesn’t fix it it’s most likely your shunt coils that’s what’s wrong with mine. I’m going to do a video on that one day but not anytime soon.
thank you . i head a hobrit welder 300 aps and if i did not uasd it would it welded so i teast ed the reosat that was good but chack the brices and thay were fine so i asked my friand that works on tham he told me to eksit the flied on the pos side of the britt and tuch the omech on welder side of the omecher. so sometimes i would haf to dothat eisat the fild . and sotimes i haed to do that sometimes.
@@savagemike9967 what do you mean? i bet you cant even weld millers are just alternators with a plug in welder under the hood, they are cheapo welders thats why nobody runs them on a pipeline.
I have a Big 40 in a diesel version and I ran it out of fuel and now it won't start. I have bled it at the injectors, bled the pump. It cranks over good. Maybe air trapped somewhere. All I get is some white smoke which don't smell too good. When it was running, there was nothing it couldn't weld.
Pop open the bolt on top of the fuel filter until you see fuel come out. Than crack open all your injectors and turn the motor over. And keep doing this until you see no more bubbles coming out. You have to thoroughly bleed the lines and always be sure to never run it out of fuel.
how much does one of these machines cost ....running ? I had one I got for 350 dollars on a trailer.... kept the trailer and sold the machine all torn apart for 500
One in running and welding condition will run about 1,500$ to 2,200$ depending on conditions. Remember that is in my neck of the woods other places may differ.
Hey brother just curious I checked mine the other day and it’s all foobard like the first one so 34 ohm what’s the volt of ours I have the same machine
The 85? That’s the open current voltage. With the machine running your negative and positive lead should have 85V with no load applied when load is applied it should float somewhere around 24V.
Frequency is too low… as in the engine rpm’s are too low. Check the spec and turn up the rpm and things will return to normal. Get an amp clamp( inductive dc amp clamp) and check the settings on the dials to the output at the electrode holder. It’s all Sun on the Beach from there…
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I am about to buy a Big 20, the owner said it does not weld but runs, you gave me some great points to start trouble shooting. Thank you and God bless.
Good info. I’ve got a late ‘70’s Big 40 with the same problem you had. Ordered the rheostat. Greens welding shop in Granbury Texas can locate a lot of parts for these. In that cold country where you’re at be sure and set that breather tube outlet with about a 1/2” air gap so it’ll pull heat off that manifold to keep carb from icing up. This is my 2nd Big 40. They are very strong machines indeed. Thanks
Awesome brother thank you for this comment man I live in Fort Worth I know where to go to get my parts now I need a rheostat 😂
Thank you for this video. I think that the rheostat in my Lincoln welder/generator is bad. But until I found your video, I could not find one which explained how to test a rheostat. Really appreciate your help!
I appreciate you doing this video, you are correct too. There are not a lot of videos about these Miller big 40’s. So I thank you for doing this one. Really enjoying your videos sir, keep up the great work and I will keep watching them
Nice video buddy, I went out and found an old beat up Miller 250. Watching you gave me the guts to try to fix this 1. I only paid $100.
I bought a big 40 out of a junkyard that had been sitting for over 10 years. Had to rebuild the carb, new coil, and replace 2 of the 6 diodes. I love that thing, and it sounds exactly like this one.
The most excited I have seen you... great job getting her going again! Loved the camera angle when we could see inside the tube you were welding... as you got close to the end of that weld, the light got less bright... super cool! As always, take care, and God Bless my friend!
Love your videos. It's nice to hear that accent again (grew up in Hattiesburg -- transplanted to the PNW) from a GREAT teacher. Keep it up!
Excellent video !!! And you are correct that there are not a lot of videos about the Big 40. You have definitely helped me with one of the problems for sure. I accidentally come across you when I typed in the Continental motor. Very thankful for your knowledge with the welder. Thanks again for sharing your videos sir.
Good job bud on keeping the old stuff going. True to your name. The patena on an old machine like that is awesome. Now you can have some ac power out of one machine
Glad you got this machine going!!! I've had to endure lectures about the Big 40 versus the SA 200, but to me they're both good welders and share the same wonderful F-163 engine. And there's plenty of videos about imported wall machines, but as an owner of two SA 200s I'm more interested to see content about the older engine driven welders. Would ESPECIALLY appreciate a rebuild video on the SA 200. Many thanks for sharing your enthusiasm on these old workhorses.
Typical Miller ,same size engine on 400 Amp machine as Lincoln puts on 200 Amp machine,reserve h.p.for Lincoln!
You likely just need to burnish the old rheostat. Use a little sand paper and clean up the brush race. You may also have to retention the brush wiper arm so it makes solid contact. Nonetheless it is exciting to get an old piece of machinery resurrected. Good video.
Good for you. Thanks for another good video. A week or so ago it was -10* here and I will take that over your Mississippi 30.
You make some good information videos. I'm glad I'm on your channel. Keep it coming budd.
Good job on getting the old running!
Loved the video , i had an old 48 Lincoln short hood that had the best arc I ever did weld with but as time went on I needed something a little newer so I sold it and bought a 1976 miller big 40 and right away I noticed that its arc wasent quite as nice seemed a little more choppy , but now im used to it and I can weld with it just fine . Just this winter i had a little trouble with the 40 wouldn't weld or power after several minutes of workin on it it started to weld as if nothing was wrong . just means gota do maintenance on it someplace i guess . so thanks for showing us some of the ins and outs of this great old work horse B
Aye I think the same thing, about the Lincolns. The big 40 is a good machine, but your right it is very different. My dad has a mid 70's blue star, and it welds very similar to the big 40. It is like they have a cold start if you know what I mean. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the Video, I have a Miller Big 40 that I'm working slowly at restoring. This Video is helpful. I'll be reading through the Comments to see what I glen. Ray King
thats good it was a simple repair. i have seen a lot of these for sale that wont weld so now i know what to look for
That is awesome. I think the SA200 rebuild would make a great video series of videos.
Really good video it helped me a lot. Thanks
Nice to see someone diag and not just fire the parts cannon!
I enjoy watching your videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thank you great demonstration
Nice job very good information bro keep it up God bless
Glad to see it going again! We have a big 20 at work that is cantankerous as hell. However, after setting the ac voltage and frequency at the ac outlet with a multimeter it started to act somewhat right. Also I cleaned the back of the rheostat with a black black or white pearl eraser, she started showing some promise. Burned about 5lbs of rod through it and things got Cadillac smooth. The biggest problem is ethanol in the fuel. It swells the cheap foam carb (Walbro) up. When I bought the float from McDonalds carb and ignition I asked them if it was ethanol proof and they told me that they had not received any complaints yet. Well guess what happened after 6 months. Yep..., the float swelled up. But all in all, I think McDonalds is a good reputable business and i would buy from them again in the future. The engine on our big20 (military issue big 20) is a Teledyne model 4 cylinder. And equipped with a polycarbonate float Walbro carb. The only fix is a new zenith carb with a brass float or find no Fethonal fuel. Thank goodness for a Lincoln SA-200.
Download a big40 manual. It will tell you how to get the volt/freq at the AC to line up with the correct engine speed. Yes, your big 40 sounds like it is running at lower than normal.
As far as the not idle up under load. I can only guess that the sense circuit is not sensing load. Could be as simple as dirty connections.
You can always clean the slip rings with Emery cloth. But never sandpaper.
All the best!
John
This video advanced my knowledge of these welders a light year and your comment is encouraging as well!
You brought it back to life.Good job.
Great video thanks for the info nobody does these videos
Thanks. Anybody who knows how to fix them doesn't know how to run a video camera lol.
Nice job bud, I wondered if you were ever gonna get to your 40. I had a rheostat go out on my Ranger 10 (weld ok but low on gen power) and the tech said to always replace the remote switch at the same time. I don't know if your 40 has a remote switch, but food for thought. Great job though! And get in there and clean all the connections! Maybe that'll help with your idle up issue.
Awesome video. hope you record tearing into the ol sa200!
Oh yeah I will. It might take a while, but we will get there.
great video
Nice job!
Great job!
Reaction was priceless! Nothing like having something go right!
great video man. I'm likely picking up a big 40 tomorrow.
Great video!!!
Cut n dry on the Electrical for a learner on the m/m I'm a Lincoln fan 100% but the miller 40 has bailed me out a time or two . I've got 2 millers f163 .4 Lincoln pipelines . 1 250 Lincoln Perkins . Added a new sd520 Lincoln to the bunch 2 ln 25 s lincolns 3 ideal arcs shop models with ln 7s ideal arc 250 Lincoln with high freq and one f163 engine in a Clark fork lift great video
Only thing or would have been nice if u could have shown the exact problem with the reostat. Ive got a reostat that is open, will attempt to silver solder it to repair it. Also the reostat controls voltage not amperage. The more voltage output from the reostat to the exciter winding gives u more amperage output at the stick. I felt ur excitement, good video and thanks for posting.
Nice job.
Great job 🇦🇺👍
Classic Work i now have the same machine. Can you post repairs and welds as much as possible
Make that only video I know the feeling bro. I got a older Komatsu WA250-3L loaders that's needs brake,clutch master booster rebuild. Like your welder.
cool shaper!
Nice! Just got mine running after sitting for a while but no power. Cleaned the stator (if that's what its called) n brushes. Still no power anywhere. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I know it's been awhile since you posted this video but I was wondering if you could tell me where the wire on my left of that corn cob resistor goes? I've recently acquired one of these and it has no wiring on it I worked out most of it that's like this last peace going into the rheostat I think any help you could give me would be greatly appreciate it thank you
I can't figure out the firing pattern for my big 40, would you be able to tell me how I can tell which plug from distributor goes to which spark plug?
Thanks for posting. Looking for parts for a big 40.
Jon Hare eBay.
nice work bud! were did you get the reostat i have the same one. do you have a part number?
Yes! Glad ya got her burning. The old big 40s run 7018 with the best of them. They can do carbon arcing till your cables melt. They are fuel thirsty very thirsty. Sadly few generator end parts are available. Miller corporation are you listening ?
Are there any numbers on the Starter I have one with the 4 cylinder continental Engine starter that’s on mine the solenoid is not in the right position for the oil dipstick will not fit properly
Yup, potentiometer. Same as my big 40. It had a bunch of dead spots... Love the B40's...! Thanks.
Is there some kind of throttle circuit governor?
Put a drill moter in reverse Ann. It may weld it work with mine
Big thanks for the idea of checking (and how) the rheostat. I've got a 250G Trailblazer that has the same symptoms you mentioned. Also, I know welders need to be running at the correct RPMs, plus or minus 100, otherwise weld arc gets funny. One way to check RPMs can be to check voltage at 120 outlet and adjust tensioner spring nut, if the diesel has one. Nevermind, saw next video and looks like you've got it welding just fine. Bravo!
Bruised Orange thanks for watching. Aye I had to work on the governor a little bit to bring the rpms up to 1800 after that it welded great. Let me know if you get your welder fixed, and good luck.
Bruised Orange did you fix your problem on that 250G Trailblazer I just picked one up with the same issue
@@Mgrand99 Check the field current circuit board. Mine had bad solder connections at the pinouts for the wires connecting to the circuit board. I cleaned of the coating w/ some alcohol if I remember correctly and the re-soldered the joints, and fixed that problem. Cold solder joint seemed to be an issue Miller had in the late 80's, early 90's welders.
So got this Miller BigBlue 50D generates 110 not 220 see nothing on meters just kind of glows will strike an arc ya think it an be fixed ?
Where does the wires connect to on the wound resistor my big 40 is missing both wires any help is appreciated thanks
♫my pappy said son you're gonna drive me to drinkin if you don't stop weldin with that hot rod Lincoln♫
You mentioning cold made me think of something the township in northern Ontario used to do in the winter. Up there it goes to minus 50 and stays there for months so of course water pipes freeze. My water, when I lived at the edge of town, came across the snowmobile trail so when they drove over it they drove the frost down deep enough to freeze my water supply. The township had a mobile welder that they hooked up to the supply on one end and the pipe where it entered my basement at the other end. In about 2 or 3 minutes the pipe would thaw and my water would be running again. I know it seems extreme but when the cold is so extreme that's what it takes.
enjoy.
hi just got a welder like yours looking for a manual for it, can you send a link i beleive you said you found one . been trying for awhile can't seem to find it.
Sometimes you have to clean the armature up for the big drum and the goes around where the brushes and stuff are
I've got a 05 miller 301G that will not weld what would I check on it to see why it's not welding
Great video you really no your stuff
I have a 250D that makes small sparks but wont weld i havent had time to check it
I have a water pump for Big 40D ,some filters too
Primary volts are low so any crud in connections cause poor performance. As to the govener some are inside the engine. Good luck!
What year is this machine I’m restoring an 1989 big 40 G
Did you get more done to this?
hello admin I'm from Indonesia, I have a 500dx miller welding machine. what is the cause of my welding machine the welding fire is small,
my brother has a welder just like this and it shockes him, but no weld what could it be?
I just bought the Big 40 and the Fine Tune Rheostat is broke. Could you tell me the Part number for it, I've been searching all over the internet
Hi awesome vid have same welder... got parts to get it running this summer. was wondering where you got rheostat from in case i need one ?
The one I found was on eBay. It fit a couple different welders. As long as it’s a 300 amp 34 omh rheostat it will work.
@@EEJester1586 thank you
I'm working on one with the same problem has power but won't weld so that helps me out a lot I'm hoping that is it thanks
Test it and see if it doesn’t test bad write me back and I’ll try to help you out.
Outta curiosity do you still have this machine, do you plan to hang on to it or sell it?
James Kmenta I still have it, and I'm planing on keeping it.
So...4 yrs later...what came of the big 40? I've never seen it on your truck or in use? What's happened to her in 2022???
I bought it as a back up unit for my other welders. I’ve used it some but it is a finicky Machine it works but you have to baby it a lot. Idler control always stayed messed up. And it’s bad cold natured. Never could get it to burn a 6010 very well. It’s gotten me out of a jam a couple of times but not a machine I don’t wanna run every day.
Is there anyway to get a wiring diagram for it? I’m having issues with mine not welding but it doesn’t seem to have one of the connectors connected.
It has three connection points on the Rheostat but while facing it the far left one isn’t connected nor does it have a wire for it to connect to. Not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to be it won’t weld just little sparks
Hey buddy is the red seal in these big 40s the same as the sa 200 Lincoln’s ?
Yes they are. They will have a different idler control but they are the same.
@@EEJester1586 wow that’s crazy thanks for that information mind blowing it’s just a simple part making the difference
Where do you buy your parts?
Hey thanks for the video. I got an older Polyequip Mosa. Used to run great. Fired it up yesterday and ran a good 2 hours. All of a sudden it went dead. I can start it up but will shut down in 30 seconds or less. For some reason, the gauges are dead too so i am working blind and can't figure what is going on. Any pointers anyone?
Is it gas or Diesel?
@@EEJester1586 thanks for the reply. Its diesel
Save the old rheostat. You just need to clean it. Check the governor on that engine. Like and thanks
I got an sa 200, gives power but to welding. Still looking for a cause.
I’ve got one too. Check the rheostat with a ohm meter and see if you have 0-56 ohms just like I did in this video. If you do try flashing the fields with a 12v battery (look up how to do that) if that doesn’t fix it it’s most likely your shunt coils that’s what’s wrong with mine. I’m going to do a video on that one day but not anytime soon.
thank you . i head a hobrit welder 300 aps and if i did not uasd it would it welded so i teast ed the reosat that was good but chack the brices and thay were fine so i asked my friand that works on tham he told me to eksit the flied on the pos side of the britt and tuch the omech on welder side of the omecher. so sometimes i would haf to dothat eisat the fild . and sotimes i haed to do that sometimes.
What one gives better arc quality? Lincoln sa200 or miller big 40?
the SA-200 is much better. i tried a big 40 once and it was like a plug in welder, you could not really change the arc
@@mikecubes1642 lol oh lord someone that doesnt know what he talkin about
@@savagemike9967 what do you mean? i bet you cant even weld
millers are just alternators with a plug in welder under the hood, they are cheapo welders thats why nobody runs them on a pipeline.
@@mikecubes1642 lol is that a meme? Is that why most 798 run millers? And my buddy runs a pipepro 400 and i run a 350 weird....
Oh shit and jacob schofield on youtube run a miller as well....super strange... yeah fuck it no place in the oil field
hell yea clean it up use the far out of it
What motor is in those old big 40’s? Something “seal”
Red seal. Best flat head ever made.
I have a Big 40 in a diesel version and I ran it out of fuel and now it won't start. I have bled it at the injectors, bled the pump. It cranks over good. Maybe air trapped somewhere. All I get is some white smoke which don't smell too good. When it was running, there was nothing it couldn't weld.
Aye some diesels are hell to bleed out. Could be air in the fuel filter.
Pop open the bolt on top of the fuel filter until you see fuel come out. Than crack open all your injectors and turn the motor over. And keep doing this until you see no more bubbles coming out. You have to thoroughly bleed the lines and always be sure to never run it out of fuel.
@@themetalman2729 I will see if that helps. Thanks.
how much does one of these machines cost ....running ? I had one I got for 350 dollars on a trailer.... kept the trailer and sold the machine all torn apart for 500
One in running and welding condition will run about 1,500$ to 2,200$ depending on conditions. Remember that is in my neck of the woods other places may differ.
@@EEJester1586 very interesting, thanks for the reply
Alot of times you can clean the contacts
Hey brother just curious I checked mine the other day and it’s all foobard like the first one so 34 ohm what’s the volt of ours I have the same machine
The OCV voltage? It should be 85.
My apologies meant watts I found a 34 ohm 300 watt will that work
Oh cool good deal.
@@EEJester1586 where are you measuring that from?
The 85? That’s the open current voltage. With the machine running your negative and positive lead should have 85V with no load applied when load is applied it should float somewhere around 24V.
Sounds good.
Where can I get a new face plate for mine
What do you do if it don’t Make power
James Rouse Check slip rings and make sure they make contact with the brushes. They may have to be cleaned or new brushes may be needed.
Where in Mississippi?
Around the Macon area.
My friend you can send me the wiring diagram of your welding machine
The plug will cause it not to weld if it goes out that's what mine did
AC generator should run 1800 rpm. 4 pole gen 60 hz
Thanks for the info. There where my amps went.
Frequency is too low… as in the engine rpm’s are too low. Check the spec and turn up the rpm and things will return to normal. Get an amp clamp( inductive dc amp clamp) and check the settings on the dials to the output at the electrode holder.
It’s all Sun on the Beach from there…
That engine is a flathead straight four cylinder engine
Can you wire these machines for a remote? Mine don’t have a spot for one either was just wondering