I have been in the electronic field for 40 years. ALWAYS verify how the detector works or if it works every time you use it! Verify on a known good electrical source. Then you know how it sounds and what to expect. I was trained never to use other coworkers' test equipment. You are not aware of the condition of their tester. ALWAYS VERIFY AND WHEN NOT SURE VERIFY AGAIN.
I was taught (it was actually required on my job) to verify the tester/meter before *and* after testing. NCVs were allowed for troubleshooting, but not for verification of zero energy. We had a procedural checklist that had to be followed for any electrical job that had to be witnessed by the second man (for work over 120v/20a) and signed by both workers. This was a DOE government job and our AHJ was stricter than the private sector. We also had an excellent safety record.😊
Bought a townhouse that had a plastic ceiling light fixture with charring from the use of a too powerful incandescent light bulb. Turned off the power, removed the charred fixture, checked with a NCVT and found that the BOX was HOT!!! When installing a new receptacle upline from the light fixture, someone failed to connect the ground wires and one of them landed on a hot screw! The NCVT saved my life!!
I always test a known, operable power source prior to testing the equipment, outlet, device, fixture, etc I'm going to work on. Never hurts to test things multiple times, especially when dealing with mains energy. The lost time in doing so may keep you alive.
Agreed, this is a good approach. Always verify functionality if possible. The video enforces that point for sure and can help skip this step, but I'd still test anyway.
Yes, regardless of tester. I use a couple different ones. They can and have gone bad. And THEN make sure your mains/supply breakers are locked out, because things happen.
As a young apprentice I was taught (even with an actual meter) you test it on a known hot, test the circuit in question, then go back to the known hot. Eliminating any doubt.
I thought you would be talking about the NCVT recall from Klein Tools here, but that is a slightly different issue. They actually had some people get shocked which prompted a massive recall of some of their most popular non-contact voltage testers. The issue was that if you held down the power button the tool would keep showing that green light which tells you that the tool is on and that there is no power detected. But since you are holding it down, it does not fully turn the tool on and is not actually testing for voltage. It is only showing the green light so you get a false negative, thinking there is no power since the light is green. I shipped mine back a week ago and they're sending out a new one that doesn't have this problem.
Thank you for pointing out the recall. I own a Klein Model #NCVT1 voltage tester and was glad to find out my tester was not recalled. The NCVT1 with date codes ending in H7 are the only testers being recalled. My testers ending date code is G6. Again thank you!
@@spinspinsugar480 I have an NCTV-1 I was coincidentally using just an hour ago. I looked all over it looking for the date code you mentioned. I even partially disassembled it and found “October 2008” and “32002Na” stenciled in the little circuit board behind the batteries. What did I miss?
Klein had a recall about a month ago on the basic model NCVT-1. I received an email from Home Depot concerning this because I had purchased one from them. In this case the green light would stay on indicating a safe condition even though there was voltage present. I returned my tester to Klein but so far I haven't gotten a response. I worked in the field as a technician for 30 years and always used a meter. The plug in voltage testers are also very handy and helpful. I don't think I would ever trust a NCVT alone. It is the first step but always confirm with my meter. Thanks for the helpful info.
I like my cheapo Sperry one the best - you have to hold the button down to keep it on. No thinking it's on but it timed out and turned off or whatever.
A little extra safety never hurts. Non-contact testers are great for some things, like identifying circuits and quickly identifying where a problem may exist, but I like to check the screw terminals with a cheap old neon tester as I'm performing work just to be sure.
Automotive testers are usually rated for 12 DC (Direct Current) and residential testers are rated for 120-440 volts AC (Alternating Current) so that is why your 12 volt automotive blew out when 120 volts AC was applied to it.
I try to always perform some type of Proof-Positive test on any testing equipment I am using. I would just test my voltage detector where I know voltage is live. I do this not just in electrical issues but many others.
I make it a habit to rub the non-contact tester I use on my shirt or pants to see if it's working just before testing an outlet. The static electricity you generate by rubbing it briskly should trigger the alarm and light.
@@trafficsignal101 It shouldn't matter how humid it is, you should still generate enough static electricity for it to detect it. I've never had an issue where rubbing it didn't work, but again I've never tested it on purpose outside on a hot and sticky day.
@JRBlood I have this exact model (no green light). I just put in a new battery but had to try this just for kicks. The static trick worked! Fyi - I'm in Texas & it's been raining for 2 days.
Just picked this up the other day, and it’s the best NCVT I’ve used. Thanks Scott! You’re a good source of useful and helpful information. Hope you’re doing well. 👍👍👍😁✌🏻🇺🇸
Another thing to note is how they actually work. They do so by using YOU as a ground reference to complete a complete circuit. So if you aren't a good ground (standing on rubber mat, using non-conductive gloves, etc.) it will not detect the presence of AC, which could be lethal. Just learned that about 10 minutes ago. Good to know!
Great informative video! I’m in HVAC and I just purchased the NCVT-3P. That’s a huge difference you pointed out between the two testers. I could easily imagine getting shocked using the NCVT-3. It’s not an excuse but sometimes I’ll ASSUME things are working when I’m rushing to get things done. That’s where the 3P model would help protect me like you explained. I’m gonna share this with the guys at work. You might be saving someone from injury or death by putting out this video. Thank you for sharing!
Best practice is not to rely solely on an NCV to ensure no power is present. While an NCV can certainly help in determining which breaker to turn off, it should always be used in conjunction with another means..either outlet tester or DMM.
So when talking about the first 2 testers, when you say “you know you have power”, you are talking about battery power, not the electrical circuit power in the house. This might be a bit confusing for some. It might be better to say something like, “The green indicator light stays on to tell you that the tester is operational.” Yes?
Great advice! As soon as you were done with this video I went directly to my toolbox and checked out my non-contact voltage tester.It tells you that your battery is good by lighting up momentarily. Even though it does that I always check it out with a known hot source.I’ll be going to Home Depot tomorrow to get a better one.
Checking with a known source is a great approach but the NCVT-3 can still get you in trouble if the batteries are getting low. Well worth the upgrade to have the alway on indicator light. 👍. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the video. I am DIY guy for last 40 years before non contact voltage tester OR plug in outlet tester existed. Way back at teen, I would just plug in table lamp in Outlet I was going to work on PLUS turn on ceiling light PLUS one more 120V item in another outlet in that room. Then turn off main panel breakers until ALL of those were OFF. Then I replaced the outlet. Fast forward 20 years and I would plug in outlet tester to receptacle to be worked + ceiling light in room + another 120V item in another receptacle in room and turn off breakers until ALL were off. Then I would STILL test that receptacle with multimeter set to 200VAC. LOL-just today for first time in my life I bought Ames AVP-600 non contact voltage tester which I will use in conjunction with good ol 120V outlet tester before I work on 120V outlet or GFCI
I've used the -2 klein model for a few years. Outlet testers are fine usually but that open hot condition could also mean open neutral and ground since it needs some sort of completed circuit to light an led. Great video bro.
I’ve been using these testers for many years now. I bought the Klein NCVT 3P today. Love the thing, works great. Just another tool in my box to keep me safe.
My Sperry volt tester only works when the spring loaded button is pressed. Making it operable with sufficient battery charge. The outlet tester is bundled with the device for $30 bucks. Worth it as it has provided peace of mind for decades.
"Live Dead Live" would eliminate this. "Live"= test on known voltage source. Turn off affected circuit "Dead" Now test the circuit that is supposed to be de-energized "Live" check meter is still functioning properly by going to the same known voltage source.
in addition to testing with a known hot (outlet, lamp cord) you can always verify the battery by briefly turning on the flashlight in models that have one.
Always do a control when using the tester. Check a known powered outlet, and make sure it is set off by the live outlet. Then test the outlet you wish to work on. That way you will know the tester is actually working when you test.
I have both the Klein NCVT-3P and Fluke 1AC-A-II voltage testers. I have never gotten a false negative with either of them. But I have gotten false positives with both. When I got a false positive, both showed the false positive. But my outlet tester (I have three) showed no current. So I used my digital multi-meter and it showed less than 2 volts. So I turned the breaker back on and the multi-meter showed 125 volts, so I turned the breaker back off, the multi-meter went back down to less than 2 volts so I proceeded to finish the work.
I use the Klein Tools NCVT3P. It's my best friend. I love it so much I purchased another one because I lost the original. I found the original but still wanted a second one. They're just very convenient and reliable. It's difficult to always find a wire, then it might not be spliced, and you can't use a multi-meter in those cases without a lot of extra work and complication. Nothing wrong with using one as long as you know it's reliable and I also usually have a live wire in close proximity so I am also almost always able to double check it.
As a 30 year electrician I cant begin to tell you how many of these things I’ve tossed in the trash name a brand I’m sure I’ve tried it. The most reliable one I’ve found is the Milwaukee brand. It has been hands down the most reliable. ( it’s the only Milwaukee tool I own so trust me I’m not trying to push Milwaukee) it has a nice little led light that works well. It beeps it flashes when voltage greater than 48v is present. ( I might be a little off on that voltage but it’s close to that. )
For everybody that says they didn't need to know this yeah I really did so thank you! I will make sure to always always always test and retest The tester!
I am not an electrician but I do plenty of electrical tasks. Anytime I am relying on a non contact tester, I always first use it to test a known "hot" to prove to myself that the tester is functioning. This is a simple way to determine if the tester is reliably indicating that voltage is present.
Klein tools are one of the best tools out there so, most professionals use Klein tools. On the other hand, their are other professional tools on the market and it's perfectly acceptable to use the other brand name tools. But to eliminate trial and error, it's best to go with the top brand name tools. I get it thank you for your video.
Wow! Thank you! this is a very important issue. I'm learning my owe way to electrical and considering to take electrical classes. But always like to check out professional videos like you're to keep me self educated. How to go about testing electrical in my motor home I'm building, or in a house, when replacing a recepticale or light switch. It very important to understand. A+ on this videos.
There are some old pilots and some bold pilots. There are no old, bold pilots. It is the same with electricians. As many posters have said, always use the live dead live approach which verifies that the tester works before and after the safety test. Then perform the work as if it was a live circuit. To those that test their NCV tester with static electricity, your test does not verify that it will work correctly on 120VAC 60Hz power at useful sensitivity. It can still light on static ( which can be many times larger voltage than line voltage) and be way out of calibration and thus give you a false negative on live 120VAC power. Always check the tester on the voltage level you are working on.
None of the devices you demonstrated is an electrical tester suited for the task you mention! Suitable are 2-pole electrical testers that reliably indicate dangerous voltage independent of settings and battery condition (dedicated warning LED). Examples are: Fluke T+Pro, T5, T6, T150, T130; Ideal 61-547, Vol-Con; Klein ET40, ET45; Beha-Amprobe 2100 and others. Why not NCV: It's not reliable at all, neither to indicate the absence nor the presence of dangerous voltage. Using it for that is even against code. Why not the Multimeter: Works only with batteries, doesn't indicate voltage independent of settings, can be configured or used wrong. Using it to test for dangerous voltage is technically against code and common sense. Why not the socket tester: Technically if it has the dedicated LED functionality (indication independent of battery and setting), it would be okay. BUT: It only works on the socket! You cannot probe the wires. So It's unsuitable to be used as electrical tester. Please tell me, why not to use the tools that are specifically designed for the task (indicating dangerous voltage safely and reliably) and are demanded for the job by code and standards. Why mess around with diagnostic tools that are unsuitable for the task (safe insolation). Why promote dangerous working practises. Enlighten me.
I bought the Klein tools ET310. It's the circuit breaker identifier with the outlet tester. It's worked great each time I needed to replace outlets throughout the house. Only negative I have with it is that I can't identify loose wires or lighting circuits with it. Thats where those non contact voltage testers come into use for me and play breaker roulette.
Fair point however, for me, I would not assume the circuit is dead unless I actually heard the ticker beep. If there was no beeping at all, I would be very suspicious and try it on a known live circuit first to make sure the ticker itself wasn't faulty and/or the batteries are dead. But I do agree the “power on” indicator for any ticker is a must.
I have had my tester since Builder Square was an outlet to buy home building materials call Greenlee Test Instruments Cat. No 1110. Always works flawlessly and if I have changed the battery once in it's lifetime that would be allot. Once would be it. I always test on a live circuit nearby before checking a circuit that I'm going to work on and I always wear gloves. I do also have a voltage irregularity/GFCI tester as you mention later. Found a number of reversed circuits when I moved in 7 years ago. Changed out all the outlets as they must have been budget builder types from 1989 when the home was built.
Amazon has a great Klein starter tool pack w/screw driver, wire cutter/strippers, GFCI tester, and NCVT-1P voltage tester (green LED tip). Used to replace GFCI outlets - so handy.
My standard procedure every time I use my non contact voltage tester is to first make sure it's operational is to always test it on a known live circuit a few times before using it on a circuit that I plan to work on. I also have the plug in tester that I use if I'm not sure if outlet has been de-energized and to confirm outlet is wired correctly and is properly grounded. I can't count how many times that I have found outlets wired incorrectly or not grounded. Another rule that I follow is never in any circumstances ask or have someone weither an helper or customer or homeowner owner to turn off the power to circuit that I'm going to work on. It's my life in my hands and my sole responsibility to be absolutely positive that the power is off. I once was working on an airhandler unit on a AC system and I asked the homeowner to turn the power off to the inside (airhandler) unit and he went to the panel and seen a breaker labeled "AC" and figured that was the one and flipped it off and said "okay" its off. I took his word for it and grabbed a wire connector for the blower motor and got bit hard. The shock wasn't that bad but the nasty cut I got on my hand from yanking my hand out against the metal required a few stitches. Lesson learned there, never expect someone else to turn off the power to anything ever again.
Quite a few multimeters also have a non-contact voltage detection function, it's a handy feature that saves carrying another tool around. For compliance in the UK though these can't be used to prove dead as as you have shown with 1 example they can fail to show live. The recommended is to have a dedicated tester that will work with or without battery paired with a proving unit that generates a known voltage to verify your tester is working.
I always quickly test the tester before actually using it on anything I'm working on. This means I'll take several sample tests at other electrical points, outlets, wiring, etc... to simply know if the tester is functioning correctly before i actually use it and trust it's results
I look at the -3 and see the big blue PWR LED and say "yeah that's on." The light isn't at the tip, but there's still a light. I personally fail to see a problem here. A green light at the tip VS a blue light in the handle isn't going to help you if you forget about either of the two lights. You could just as easily forget that the tip should be green when on and safe VS the handle having a blue light when on and safe. The real solution here is to know your tools, and if you're not going to use it for another 6 months, keep the instructions with the tool and read them again before using it. Also a lot of other comments about checking it against a known live source first sounds like a great idea too. I do think the green LED that is replaced with red when voltage is detected is a better design though.
Our laboratory DVM was damaged. It gave false zero voltage reading on a live circuit. I retested by plugging in a work lamp that lit up. After that I kept several back up DVMs locked up to use as needed. The damaged meter was repaired by electronic technicians.
If a non-contact tester signals that there is power in a circuit, I'll treat the circuit as hot. If the tester does not signal a circuit as live, I'll suspect the circuit is dead...... but realize that it requires further checking before treating it as such. Used properly NCVT's are great tools and deserve a place with my tools! P.S. The first step in using a non-contact tester is to ALWAYS check it on a known hot circuit. Safety first!
Scott, nice tip...I have the P model and use it on the 12-1000v mode for extra sensitivity. And as others have suggested below, after I test the receptacle as OFF, I then test it on a known live circuit to confirm my tool is working properly. For everything else (trouble shooting mostly), I use a Fluke T6-600. I am a retired DYI'r.
I have a Gardner Bender NCVT, it has a momentary push button that you have to hold down when using. It flashes a red light and beeps at initial power up. Also have a multi-meter with NCVT and I sometimes use a plug in outlet tester.
I always test first on something that sets it off, and after test on something that sets it off. Therefore I've never had this problem. I had never given much thought about this but I've always been extra careful.
Non-contact testers are convenient but I also use a pigtail tester when I can, as it's more dependable. Always test a known live circuit first, regardless of what tester.
My tester ONLY tests the HOT wire. It does not help me when I have lost the neutral. So it usually stays in the drawer. My GFCI tester is my go to test tool. !
It is good practice to always test your test equipment on a known power source first, also I would never trust one of these testers if I was going to physically touch the conductors, use a digital meter or an Ideal (wiggy) voltage tester. I have been an electrician for over 40 years and have always carried one in my tool pouch
The safe way to use a potential tester requires 3 steps: 1. Test the tester on a known hot source to ensure the tester is working, 2. Test the circuit in question with the tester, and 3. Retest the tester on the known hot circuit to prove it is still working. Personally, I don't use a non-contacting tester to "prove" that a circuit is dead. I would only use an approved contacting tester for that and I would perform the 3-step method.
I am using a Klein Model #NCVT1PR voltage tester and a Commercial Electric Model #CE-GFI6500 GFCI Outlet Circuit Analyzer Tester when changing outlets.
I have the Fluke Voltalert 1AC and 2AC they both are OK but I always have to test them first because there isn't a sure way to know that they are on. One of them is actually always on.
Well, it does beep when it turns off. Also, devices just like ppl are not always reliable, so it's a good habit to test if the thing actually works before using it, That goes for many if not all gadgets and humans.
7:00 non-contrat testers do not tell you the actual voltage. They only indicate presence of AC current. They do not work on DC circuts, unless there is a AC component. AKA telephone.
I bought a tester and used it once, about a year ago. Went to use it again and it wouldn’t turn on. Turns out the batteries had corroded and ruined the tester. So My suggestion is to remove the batteries if you don’t use it frequently.
If the NCVT touches a hot wire can you get shocked? I wasn't sure if the "non-contact" part was required to not shock yourself or if it just means you don't *have* to make contact with anything to check.
Thanks for this Sir , as luck ? would have it , I bought the 3P version a week and a half back - worked fine / Spooky thing is though ? now your video comes up in my YT recommended page ?? Hmmmm , ( we're all being watched )
My Klein noncontact tester will indicate power on one side of Romex wire only so if I put it on the wrong side it shows no power. So I always check on both side of any wire.
I was always taught and actually do believe that NCVTs are not a proper device for verifying a deenergized condition on any circuit you're going to touch. Sure they're great for troubleshooting and quick inspection purposes, but I absolutely wouldn't trust my life to one. On any significant voltage source the best method is the live-dead-live check with a proper DMM or analog VOM, but never a chickenstick. Live-dead-live means you verify the proper functioning of your meter on a live circuit _both before and after_ you verify the circuit in question is deenergized.
Two ways, I use a plug type voltage tester on the outlet / repticle or just turn off the main panel and use flashlights when needed. Yes, I am a coward when it comes to electricity.
I have been in the electronic field for 40 years. ALWAYS verify how the detector works or if it works every time you use it! Verify on a known good electrical source. Then you know how it sounds and what to expect. I was trained never to use other coworkers' test equipment. You are not aware of the condition of their tester. ALWAYS VERIFY AND WHEN NOT SURE VERIFY AGAIN.
Agreed...ALWAYS VERIFY
Let me re-iterate: ALLWAYS VERIFY.
I was taught (it was actually required on my job) to verify the tester/meter before *and* after testing. NCVs were allowed for troubleshooting, but not for verification of zero energy. We had a procedural checklist that had to be followed for any electrical job that had to be witnessed by the second man (for work over 120v/20a) and signed by both workers. This was a DOE government job and our AHJ was stricter than the private sector. We also had an excellent safety record.😊
Thank you for the information, education and advice.
Bought a townhouse that had a plastic ceiling light fixture with charring from the use of a too powerful incandescent light bulb. Turned off the power, removed the charred fixture, checked with a NCVT and found that the BOX was HOT!!! When installing a new receptacle upline from the light fixture, someone failed to connect the ground wires and one of them landed on a hot screw! The NCVT saved my life!!
Dang! Good story and cautionary tale to always be careful when working on electrical. Thanks for sharing.
I always test a known, operable power source prior to testing the equipment, outlet, device, fixture, etc I'm going to work on. Never hurts to test things multiple times, especially when dealing with mains energy. The lost time in doing so may keep you alive.
Agreed, this is a good approach. Always verify functionality if possible. The video enforces that point for sure and can help skip this step, but I'd still test anyway.
That's the way I was taught. Check and make sure your equipment is working!
My Klein NCVT-1 has explicit instructions on it: WARNING: Before using - test on known live circuit.
Yes, regardless of tester. I use a couple different ones. They can and have gone bad. And THEN make sure your mains/supply breakers are locked out, because things happen.
@@blaydCA Lock out and tag out (LOTO) are essential! Great point!
As a young apprentice I was taught (even with an actual meter) you test it on a known hot, test the circuit in question, then go back to the known hot. Eliminating any doubt.
I thought you would be talking about the NCVT recall from Klein Tools here, but that is a slightly different issue. They actually had some people get shocked which prompted a massive recall of some of their most popular non-contact voltage testers. The issue was that if you held down the power button the tool would keep showing that green light which tells you that the tool is on and that there is no power detected. But since you are holding it down, it does not fully turn the tool on and is not actually testing for voltage. It is only showing the green light so you get a false negative, thinking there is no power since the light is green. I shipped mine back a week ago and they're sending out a new one that doesn't have this problem.
Thank you for pointing out the recall. I own a Klein Model #NCVT1 voltage tester and was glad to find out my tester was not recalled. The NCVT1 with date codes ending in H7 are the only testers being recalled. My testers ending date code is G6. Again thank you!
@@spinspinsugar480 I have an NCTV-1 I was coincidentally using just an hour ago. I looked all over it looking for the date code you mentioned. I even partially disassembled it and found “October 2008” and “32002Na” stenciled in the little circuit board behind the batteries. What did I miss?
@@Dave-ei7kk I’m wondering the same thing. Maybe I’ll try looking online
I always put the NCVT Next to a lamp cord that I know has power so not an issue
I immediately used my Klein tool tester on the lamp and cell phone cords and got the response you mentioned!! Thanks!!
I just placed the tool near it and it lit up!!
Klein had a recall about a month ago on the basic model NCVT-1. I received an email from Home Depot concerning this because I had purchased one from them.
In this case the green light would stay on indicating a safe condition even though there was voltage present. I returned my tester to Klein but so far I haven't gotten a response.
I worked in the field as a technician for 30 years and always used a meter. The plug in voltage testers are also very handy and helpful.
I don't think I would ever trust a NCVT alone. It is the first step but always confirm with my meter.
Thanks for the helpful info.
Thanks! I bought an NCVT-1 from Home Depot with the affected date code, and I had not heard about the recall until reading this comment.
I’m a new home owner and love learning all this new stuff you are putting out content wise. Thank you for your hard work with these videos!
I like my cheapo Sperry one the best - you have to hold the button down to keep it on. No thinking it's on but it timed out and turned off or whatever.
A little extra safety never hurts. Non-contact testers are great for some things, like identifying circuits and quickly identifying where a problem may exist, but I like to check the screw terminals with a cheap old neon tester as I'm performing work just to be sure.
@@Grauenwolf The Neon testers were only for AC weren't they?
Automotive testers are usually rated for 12 DC (Direct Current) and residential testers are rated for 120-440 volts AC (Alternating Current) so that is why your 12 volt automotive blew out when 120 volts AC was applied to it.
@@Grauenwolf Neon testers are for voltages much higher than 12v. They won't light at 12v or 24v. Automotive testers are not neon.
I try to always perform some type of Proof-Positive test on any testing equipment I am using. I would just test my voltage detector where I know voltage is live. I do this not just in electrical issues but many others.
Best practice for sure.
I make it a habit to rub the non-contact tester I use on my shirt or pants to see if it's working just before testing an outlet. The static electricity you generate by rubbing it briskly should trigger the alarm and light.
That would be great up north in the winter. Not so good in Florida with all the humidity. It's been a long time since I have gotten a static shock.
@@trafficsignal101 It shouldn't matter how humid it is, you should still generate enough static electricity for it to detect it. I've never had an issue where rubbing it didn't work, but again I've never tested it on purpose outside on a hot and sticky day.
@JRBlood I have this exact model (no green light). I just put in a new battery but had to try this just for kicks. The static trick worked!
Fyi - I'm in Texas & it's been raining for 2 days.
Just picked this up the other day, and it’s the best NCVT I’ve used. Thanks Scott! You’re a good source of useful and helpful information. Hope you’re doing well. 👍👍👍😁✌🏻🇺🇸
Thanks George, appreciate the support.
By simple good fortune, I already had the 3P. I didn't even know you could buy one without a on/no voltage indicator. I'm pretty new to all this.
Another thing to note is how they actually work. They do so by using YOU as a ground reference to complete a complete circuit. So if you aren't a good ground (standing on rubber mat, using non-conductive gloves, etc.) it will not detect the presence of AC, which could be lethal. Just learned that about 10 minutes ago. Good to know!
Great informative video! I’m in HVAC and I just purchased the NCVT-3P. That’s a huge difference you pointed out between the two testers. I could easily imagine getting shocked using the NCVT-3. It’s not an excuse but sometimes I’ll ASSUME things are working when I’m rushing to get things done. That’s where the 3P model would help protect me like you explained. I’m gonna share this with the guys at work. You might be saving someone from injury or death by putting out this video. Thank you for sharing!
You bet, thanks for the feedback!
Best practice is not to rely solely on an NCV to ensure no power is present. While an NCV can certainly help in determining which breaker to turn off, it should always be used in conjunction with another means..either outlet tester or DMM.
To get around the recall issue, buy a Fluke 1AC... and always test on a known live circuit before relying on a non-contact tester.
So when talking about the first 2 testers, when you say “you know you have power”, you are talking about battery power, not the electrical circuit power in the house. This might be a bit confusing for some. It might be better to say something like, “The green indicator light stays on to tell you that the tester is operational.”
Yes?
Great advice! As soon as you were done with this video I went directly to my toolbox and checked out my non-contact voltage tester.It tells you that your battery is good by lighting up momentarily. Even though it does that I always check it out with a known hot source.I’ll be going to Home Depot tomorrow to get a better one.
Checking with a known source is a great approach but the NCVT-3 can still get you in trouble if the batteries are getting low. Well worth the upgrade to have the alway on indicator light. 👍. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the video. I am DIY guy for last 40 years before non contact voltage tester OR plug in outlet tester existed. Way back at teen, I would just plug in table lamp in Outlet I was going to work on PLUS turn on ceiling light PLUS one more 120V item in another outlet in that room. Then turn off main panel breakers until ALL of those were OFF. Then I replaced the outlet. Fast forward 20 years and I would plug in outlet tester to receptacle to be worked + ceiling light in room + another 120V item in another receptacle in room and turn off breakers until ALL were off. Then I would STILL test that receptacle with multimeter set to 200VAC. LOL-just today for first time in my life I bought Ames AVP-600 non contact voltage tester which I will use in conjunction with good ol 120V outlet tester before I work on 120V outlet or GFCI
I've used the -2 klein model for a few years. Outlet testers are fine usually but that open hot condition could also mean open neutral and ground since it needs some sort of completed circuit to light an led. Great video bro.
I ALWAYS test my tester on a KNOWN LIVE SOURCE to verify that the thing is up to snuff. Personally I prefer meters.
I prefer having something in my pocket when i dont have a meter
I’ve been using these testers for many years now. I bought the Klein NCVT 3P today. Love the thing, works great. Just another tool in my box to keep me safe.
My Sperry volt tester only works when the spring loaded button is pressed. Making it operable with sufficient battery charge. The outlet tester is bundled with the device for $30 bucks. Worth it as it has provided peace of mind for decades.
Have seen the Sperry tester which has a non-contact voltage tester on one end and an outlet tester on the other. Pretty cool 👍
Always test the non-contact voltage tester BEFORE and AFTER on a known live voltage source to verify its function.
"Live Dead Live" would eliminate this. "Live"= test on known voltage source. Turn off affected circuit "Dead" Now test the circuit that is supposed to be de-energized "Live" check meter is still functioning properly by going to the same known voltage source.
in addition to testing with a known hot (outlet, lamp cord) you can always verify the battery by briefly turning on the flashlight in models that have one.
Always do a control when using the tester. Check a known powered outlet, and make sure it is set off by the live outlet. Then test the outlet you wish to work on. That way you will know the tester is actually working when you test.
I have both the Klein NCVT-3P and Fluke 1AC-A-II voltage testers. I have never gotten a false negative with either of them. But I have gotten false positives with both. When I got a false positive, both showed the false positive. But my outlet tester (I have three) showed no current. So I used my digital multi-meter and it showed less than 2 volts. So I turned the breaker back on and the multi-meter showed 125 volts, so I turned the breaker back off, the multi-meter went back down to less than 2 volts so I proceeded to finish the work.
I use the Klein Tools NCVT3P. It's my best friend. I love it so much I purchased another one because I lost the original. I found the original but still wanted a second one. They're just very convenient and reliable. It's difficult to always find a wire, then it might not be spliced, and you can't use a multi-meter in those cases without a lot of extra work and complication. Nothing wrong with using one as long as you know it's reliable and I also usually have a live wire in close proximity so I am also almost always able to double check it.
As a 30 year electrician I cant begin to tell you how many of these things I’ve tossed in the trash name a brand I’m sure I’ve tried it. The most reliable one I’ve found is the Milwaukee brand. It has been hands down the most reliable. ( it’s the only Milwaukee tool I own so trust me I’m not trying to push Milwaukee) it has a nice little led light that works well. It beeps it flashes when voltage greater than 48v is present. ( I might be a little off on that voltage but it’s close to that. )
Thanks for the feedback JJ.
For most, the receptical testor is the best no brainer for checking recepticals....even when purchasing a house
For everybody that says they didn't need to know this yeah I really did so thank you! I will make sure to always always always test and retest The tester!
I am not an electrician but I do plenty of electrical tasks. Anytime I am relying on a non contact tester, I always first use it to test a known "hot" to prove to myself that the tester is functioning. This is a simple way to determine if the tester is reliably indicating that voltage is present.
Klein tools are one of the best tools out there so, most professionals use Klein tools. On the other hand, their are other professional tools on the market and it's perfectly acceptable to use the other brand name tools. But to eliminate trial and error, it's best to go with the top brand name tools. I get it thank you for your video.
I have the Klein NCT-2. It is very clear if it is on or off, the end lights up if it is on. Works well for me.
Wow! Thank you! this is a very important issue. I'm learning my owe way to electrical and considering to take electrical classes. But always like to check out professional videos like you're to keep me self educated. How to go about testing electrical in my motor home I'm building, or in a house, when replacing a recepticale or light switch. It very important to understand. A+ on this videos.
I well understand my tool but it just doesn’t function the way it used to. 😞
There are some old pilots and some bold pilots. There are no old, bold pilots. It is the same with electricians.
As many posters have said, always use the live dead live approach which verifies that the tester works before and after the safety test. Then perform the work as if it was a live circuit.
To those that test their NCV tester with static electricity, your test does not verify that it will work correctly on 120VAC 60Hz power at useful sensitivity. It can still light on static ( which can be many times larger voltage than line voltage) and be way out of calibration and thus give you a false negative on live 120VAC power. Always check the tester on the voltage level you are working on.
None of the devices you demonstrated is an electrical tester suited for the task you mention!
Suitable are 2-pole electrical testers that reliably indicate dangerous voltage independent of settings and battery condition (dedicated warning LED). Examples are: Fluke T+Pro, T5, T6, T150, T130; Ideal 61-547, Vol-Con; Klein ET40, ET45; Beha-Amprobe 2100 and others.
Why not NCV: It's not reliable at all, neither to indicate the absence nor the presence of dangerous voltage. Using it for that is even against code.
Why not the Multimeter: Works only with batteries, doesn't indicate voltage independent of settings, can be configured or used wrong. Using it to test for dangerous voltage is technically against code and common sense.
Why not the socket tester: Technically if it has the dedicated LED functionality (indication independent of battery and setting), it would be okay. BUT: It only works on the socket! You cannot probe the wires. So It's unsuitable to be used as electrical tester.
Please tell me, why not to use the tools that are specifically designed for the task (indicating dangerous voltage safely and reliably) and are demanded for the job by code and standards. Why mess around with diagnostic tools that are unsuitable for the task (safe insolation). Why promote dangerous working practises. Enlighten me.
Thank you! I’ll look for the better Klein-npt-3P and the better continuity tester.
I bought the Klein tools ET310. It's the circuit breaker identifier with the outlet tester. It's worked great each time I needed to replace outlets throughout the house. Only negative I have with it is that I can't identify loose wires or lighting circuits with it. Thats where those non contact voltage testers come into use for me and play breaker roulette.
Fair point however, for me, I would not assume the circuit is dead unless I actually heard the ticker beep. If there was no beeping at all, I would be very suspicious and try it on a known live circuit first to make sure the ticker itself wasn't faulty and/or the batteries are dead. But I do agree the “power on” indicator for any ticker is a must.
Thanks. I just checked my tester and it is a ncvt-3p. It works really well. Thanks again.
I have had my tester since Builder Square was an outlet to buy home building materials call Greenlee Test Instruments Cat. No 1110. Always works flawlessly and if I have changed the battery once in it's lifetime that would be allot. Once would be it. I always test on a live circuit nearby before checking a circuit that I'm going to work on and I always wear gloves. I do also have a voltage irregularity/GFCI tester as you mention later. Found a number of reversed circuits when I moved in 7 years ago. Changed out all the outlets as they must have been budget builder types from 1989 when the home was built.
Amazon has a great Klein starter tool pack w/screw driver, wire cutter/strippers, GFCI tester, and NCVT-1P voltage tester (green LED tip). Used to replace GFCI outlets - so handy.
My standard procedure every time I use my non contact voltage tester is to first make sure it's operational is to always test it on a known live circuit a few times before using it on a circuit that I plan to work on. I also have the plug in tester that I use if I'm not sure if outlet has been de-energized and to confirm outlet is wired correctly and is properly grounded. I can't count how many times that I have found outlets wired incorrectly or not grounded. Another rule that I follow is never in any circumstances ask or have someone weither an helper or customer or homeowner owner to turn off the power to circuit that I'm going to work on. It's my life in my hands and my sole responsibility to be absolutely positive that the power is off. I once was working on an airhandler unit on a AC system and I asked the homeowner to turn the power off to the inside (airhandler) unit and he went to the panel and seen a breaker labeled "AC" and figured that was the one and flipped it off and said "okay" its off. I took his word for it and grabbed a wire connector for the blower motor and got bit hard. The shock wasn't that bad but the nasty cut I got on my hand from yanking my hand out against the metal required a few stitches. Lesson learned there, never expect someone else to turn off the power to anything ever again.
thanks for those towards at the end
Always check your tester on a known live source before and AFTER testing the target wire.
Quite a few multimeters also have a non-contact voltage detection function, it's a handy feature that saves carrying another tool around. For compliance in the UK though these can't be used to prove dead as as you have shown with 1 example they can fail to show live.
The recommended is to have a dedicated tester that will work with or without battery paired with a proving unit that generates a known voltage to verify your tester is working.
Any tester can fail
The first one just got recalled. Look it up on their website
I always quickly test the tester before actually using it on anything I'm working on. This means I'll take several sample tests at other electrical points, outlets, wiring, etc... to simply know if the tester is functioning correctly before i actually use it and trust it's results
I look at the -3 and see the big blue PWR LED and say "yeah that's on." The light isn't at the tip, but there's still a light. I personally fail to see a problem here. A green light at the tip VS a blue light in the handle isn't going to help you if you forget about either of the two lights. You could just as easily forget that the tip should be green when on and safe VS the handle having a blue light when on and safe.
The real solution here is to know your tools, and if you're not going to use it for another 6 months, keep the instructions with the tool and read them again before using it. Also a lot of other comments about checking it against a known live source first sounds like a great idea too.
I do think the green LED that is replaced with red when voltage is detected is a better design though.
Thanks! I’d always have to do a test to see if the battery was working. Now I have a double check.
Our laboratory DVM was damaged. It gave false zero voltage reading on a live circuit. I retested by plugging in a work lamp that lit up.
After that I kept several back up DVMs locked up to use as needed.
The damaged meter was repaired by electronic technicians.
I find it all your videos I have view so far, are very useful and well explained thank you
Thanks Louie 👍
Good video. My green colored tester does the same thing. I’ve lived with the annoying inconvenience but failed to see the safety issue until now🤦♂️
If a non-contact tester signals that there is power in a circuit, I'll treat the circuit as hot. If the tester does not signal a circuit as live, I'll suspect the circuit is dead...... but realize that it requires further checking before treating it as such.
Used properly NCVT's are great tools and deserve a place with my tools!
P.S. The first step in using a non-contact tester is to ALWAYS check it on a known hot circuit. Safety first!
Thank you for the information.
I recently purchased a set. I have not had to use them yet.
Just about to use the 3P. This helped immensely. Keep it up. Cheers and blessings.
The $5 tester I got from Harbor Freight works great. No issues.
Good info. Have the Klein contact tester. Never considered the battery issue for it.
Scott, nice tip...I have the P model and use it on the 12-1000v mode for extra sensitivity. And as others have suggested below, after I test the receptacle as OFF, I then test it on a known live circuit to confirm my tool is working properly. For everything else (trouble shooting mostly), I use a Fluke T6-600. I am a retired DYI'r.
Thank you for your concern of the safety of others!!!!!!!
I have a Gardner Bender NCVT, it has a momentary push button that you have to hold down when using. It flashes a red light and beeps at initial power up. Also have a multi-meter with NCVT and I sometimes use a plug in outlet tester.
I always test first on something that sets it off, and after test on something that sets it off. Therefore I've never had this problem. I had never given much thought about this but I've always been extra careful.
Non-contact testers are convenient but I also use a pigtail tester when I can, as it's more dependable. Always test a known live circuit first, regardless of what tester.
Good information. I call them a widow maker. I like the outlet testers as well as a Fluke 87 DMM.
My tester ONLY tests the HOT wire.
It does not help me when I have lost the neutral.
So it usually stays in the drawer.
My GFCI tester is my go to test tool.
!
It is good practice to always test your test equipment on a known power source first, also I would never trust one of these testers if I was going to physically touch the conductors, use a digital meter or an Ideal (wiggy) voltage tester. I have been an electrician for over 40 years and have always carried one in my tool pouch
Very good information but a new tools always have a better founsion and up grade
The safe way to use a potential tester requires 3 steps: 1. Test the tester on a known hot source to ensure the tester is working, 2. Test the circuit in question with the tester, and 3. Retest the tester on the known hot circuit to prove it is still working. Personally, I don't use a non-contacting tester to "prove" that a circuit is dead. I would only use an approved contacting tester for that and I would perform the 3-step method.
I am using a Klein Model #NCVT1PR voltage tester and a Commercial Electric Model #CE-GFI6500 GFCI Outlet Circuit Analyzer Tester when changing outlets.
I was taught to test the voltage tester on a known energized circuit to make sure it is working.
I have the Fluke Voltalert 1AC and 2AC they both are OK but I always have to test them first because there isn't a sure way to know that they are on. One of them is actually always on.
Good advice. I always get a charge out of doing electrical work.
Thanks for the current event
I am happy to see your demo. Same confusion other types.
Ive always just used a multi meter. But good info to know in case I ever get a non contact tester.
Says in the instructions to test on known live before use.
Well, it does beep when it turns off. Also, devices just like ppl are not always reliable, so it's a good habit to test if the thing actually works before using it, That goes for many if not all gadgets and humans.
These can give a false reading when the cable runs parallel with other live cables ,ie shows live .
One should not be working on electricity if they can't figure out if the batteries are working in their tester. Both of these testers are great.
7:00 non-contrat testers do not tell you the actual voltage. They only indicate presence of AC current. They do not work on DC circuts, unless there is a AC component. AKA telephone.
All three tools are a necessity for different types of measurements. Ncvt, recepticle tester, multimeter.
I bought a tester and used it once, about a year ago. Went to use it again and it wouldn’t turn on. Turns out the batteries had corroded and ruined the tester. So My suggestion is to remove the batteries if you don’t use it frequently.
Late to the game here but wanted to warn folks....the battery cover falls off the 3P and gets lost easily. Can't buy the part.
If the NCVT touches a hot wire can you get shocked? I wasn't sure if the "non-contact" part was required to not shock yourself or if it just means you don't *have* to make contact with anything to check.
I'll stick with my Fluke non contact voltage tester II.
Have one with temperature sensor, wish I could calibrate the temperature reading.
ALWAYS, Test, check, Test any electronic measuring device.
Thanks for this Sir , as luck ? would have it , I bought the 3P version a week and a half back - worked fine / Spooky thing is
though ? now your video comes up in my YT recommended page ?? Hmmmm , ( we're all being watched )
great tips. what I always do is. I ask my apprentice to go hit the power off and if he says it's off I trust him and I get to work 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Fluke constant flash works well
Thank you for another great video. I am sold on the ncvt-3p great comparison video.
Thanks for watching!
Oh my god , i never thought about that , it's so useful information. Thx for educating us on that....
My Klein noncontact tester will indicate power on one side of Romex wire only so if I put it on the wrong side it shows no power. So I always check on both side of any wire.
NCVT-2 does not have an 'on' light at all. Worked in a nuclear power plant for 30 years, returned it.
I was always taught and actually do believe that NCVTs are not a proper device for verifying a deenergized condition on any circuit you're going to touch. Sure they're great for troubleshooting and quick inspection purposes, but I absolutely wouldn't trust my life to one. On any significant voltage source the best method is the live-dead-live check with a proper DMM or analog VOM, but never a chickenstick. Live-dead-live means you verify the proper functioning of your meter on a live circuit _both before and after_ you verify the circuit in question is deenergized.
Two ways, I use a plug type voltage tester on the outlet / repticle or just turn off the main panel and use flashlights when needed. Yes, I am a coward when it comes to electricity.