Big job mate! Too late for you now but for anyone watching later, it is much easier and faster if you cut the glass matting in disks from the size of a quarter or half dollar up to the largest needed all at once. If you have two people, fill one hole at a time by wetting one disk out then placing it in the hole one at a time, starting with the smallest disk. Each disk gets rolled with a metal fibreglass roller to remove the air and flatten before the next larger disk is laid on top, which is then rolled etc... Once you get the hang of it or if working alone, you can wet out all disks per hole on a piece of cardboard then walk over to the hull and place and roll one at a time as before. Rolling is much better than using the plastic paddle, because it works each disk into the hole, and also removes the air. Using a $10 fibreglass roller spreads the glass, so you don't need to be so fastidious with the size, shape and alignment of the glass matt disks. This might sound a bit convoluted but is is much faster and is not as messy.
All that I have read it says largest to smallest and a few say small to large but I think either way is fine. We cut many patches before we ever start filling holes that’s why we number and mark orientation. It would be a long process either way we go. But I will try a couple holes as you suggested. Just to see I am old but not to old to take advice. Thank you for the comment and I hope to have more footage soon we are trying to get the engine bedded and have ran across a few problems with prop shaft and other things I hope to get these sorted before I get to old to do this anymore.
@@SVOpalThanks for replying mate. I'm a bit long in the tooth myself and have repaired more ozzy blisters than I'd care to remember. The real tip in my comment, which I wanted to share, is to use the metal roller, which almost turns the wetted out matting into a gel and fills the hole beautifully before the next disk is laid on top. My latest project is a mid 1980's Hans Christian 43t and I think that she might be my swan song...
I love doing stuff including the blisters but the solid thats left here is probably blistering already.. ie the entire hull is actually delaminated. I would have budgeted for a full peel.
@@dhouse-d5l I have chased these blisters into good fiberglass. A peel would have been easier maybe not better. Thanks for the comments. And wish us luck.
One of those projects that proof the old rule: The cheapest boat is the most expensive one. Put just the materials used here on top of her initial price snd you get a boat without osmosis!
I think the initial price was $1.00. If you enjoy working with your hands and seeing the result, enjoy turning a old classic into a new hobby and then sailing on a thing of beauty that you save from the scrap heap, I dont think that rule applies. Why do you think that there are old classic cars around? They are not as safe, reliable, efficient as the new ones, but MUCH more loved!
My labor I don’t count. But the materials are reasonable and she is a rare and sea worthy design. They don’t make them like this anymore. When we are done we will know everything about this beautiful old girl. Thanks for watching
Maybe I havent been clear the first time: One gets a contessa 26 in great condition for 10-12k. In the Moment that seems a lot but the osmosis is just the beginning. You have to buy ( just examples): winches sails engine repair+parts windows forehatch standing+running rigging nav. electronics electrics ground takkle safety gear dhinghy etc etc when your done with all that people usually spend at least the price of the same boat in good condition.
And meanwhile this old boat would have been forgotten. There is a great story behind this boat and a reason we want her to be great again. “OPPORTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK.” Thanks for watching and commenting!
To clarify once more: You have my utmost respect for taking on this project! Many people who start taking interrest in boats use youtube as a source. I simply dont want them to think this is the only way to go. The used boat market is quite crazy these days, and a lot of people dont get that.
No boat has ever sank from blisters. Bottom paint a splash. Blisters are like bumps on a golf ball and makes the boat go faster. Making a small blister a bigger patch may be counter productive. Small to big if it were me.
Hire a good surveyor and buy the boat without the blisters. If it is 40-or more, years old with zero blisters, it will likely never get blisters. It's worth the extra money to never have that problem.
But why would I want to do that? This is my project boat and she is being saved she is a classic. We have other boats that we sail but this girl is special.
@@SVOpalOk. Whatever floats your boat. But for people who just want a nice boat to sail, avoid the ones with problems. Otherwise you'll never leave the dock.
Wow amazing work👏Sent you all my support my friend 😊Happy New Year 🎊
absolutely amazing work well done shes a beauty
Thank you very much!
Great work Bud....keep on keeping on...
Daz
All things Contessa 26
Thanks, your videos will help a lot.
Great boat. Worthy of the effort!!
Thank you and I believe she is also
Big job mate!
Too late for you now but for anyone watching later, it is much easier and faster if you cut the glass matting in disks from the size of a quarter or half dollar up to the largest needed all at once. If you have two people, fill one hole at a time by wetting one disk out then placing it in the hole one at a time, starting with the smallest disk. Each disk gets rolled with a metal fibreglass roller to remove the air and flatten before the next larger disk is laid on top, which is then rolled etc...
Once you get the hang of it or if working alone, you can wet out all disks per hole on a piece of cardboard then walk over to the hull and place and roll one at a time as before. Rolling is much better than using the plastic paddle, because it works each disk into the hole, and also removes the air. Using a $10 fibreglass roller spreads the glass, so you don't need to be so fastidious with the size, shape and alignment of the glass matt disks. This might sound a bit convoluted but is is much faster and is not as messy.
All that I have read it says largest to smallest and a few say small to large but I think either way is fine. We cut many patches before we ever start filling holes that’s why we number and mark orientation. It would be a long process either way we go. But I will try a couple holes as you suggested. Just to see I am old but not to old to take advice. Thank you for the comment and I hope to have more footage soon we are trying to get the engine bedded and have ran across a few problems with prop shaft and other things I hope to get these sorted before I get to old to do this anymore.
@@SVOpalThanks for replying mate.
I'm a bit long in the tooth myself and have repaired more ozzy blisters than I'd care to remember. The real tip in my comment, which I wanted to share, is to use the metal roller, which almost turns the wetted out matting into a gel and fills the hole beautifully before the next disk is laid on top.
My latest project is a mid 1980's Hans Christian 43t and I think that she might be my swan song...
Oh I bet she is a beauty would love to see some pics.
@@SVOpal Sorry I tried.... A bit hopeless I know but I donno how to do that....😵💫
Great job ! They are a true classic and worth restoring ..
Thank you ! The holidays cold temperatures and COVID has slowed down our work and our videos but we will be back very soon.
I love doing stuff including the blisters but the solid thats left here is probably blistering already.. ie the entire hull is actually delaminated. I would have budgeted for a full peel.
@@dhouse-d5l I have chased these blisters into good fiberglass. A peel would have been easier maybe not better. Thanks for the comments. And wish us luck.
Update please! I wonder how many you have left or if you went insane before you finished it 🤔
Did go insane but I am still patching
@@SVOpal 🤣 good work. Do you reckon you'll film an update soon?
@@ben1895 I will try to get something up soon. I am not very good at videos but I will do my best.
Great Video! Do you peel the paper off before it dries or after?
I wait a day before peeling the parchment paper, no problems with blush so far.
@@SVOpal Great. Thanks. Is allot of work. I look forward to the end result!
If you had to choose between this or recoreing the side decks which would you rather?
@@ericgfx01 hard to say both are hard jobs but you do t have to hold the sander over your head.
One of those projects that proof the old rule:
The cheapest boat is the most expensive one.
Put just the materials used here on top of her initial price snd you get a boat without osmosis!
I think the initial price was $1.00. If you enjoy working with your hands and seeing the result, enjoy turning a old classic into a new hobby and then sailing on a thing of beauty that you save from the scrap heap, I dont think that rule applies. Why do you think that there are old classic cars around? They are not as safe, reliable, efficient as the new ones, but MUCH more loved!
My labor I don’t count. But the materials are reasonable and she is a rare and sea worthy design. They don’t make them like this anymore. When we are done we will know everything about this beautiful old girl. Thanks for watching
Maybe I havent been clear the first time: One gets a contessa 26 in great condition for 10-12k. In the Moment that seems a lot but the osmosis is just the beginning. You have to buy ( just examples):
winches
sails
engine repair+parts
windows forehatch
standing+running rigging
nav. electronics
electrics
ground takkle
safety gear
dhinghy
etc etc
when your done with all that people usually spend at least the price of the same boat in good condition.
And meanwhile this old boat would have been forgotten. There is a great story behind this boat and a reason we want her to be great again.
“OPPORTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK.”
Thanks for watching and commenting!
To clarify once more: You have my utmost respect for taking on this project! Many people who start taking interrest in boats use youtube as a source. I simply dont want them to think this is the only way to go. The used boat market is quite crazy these days, and a lot of people dont get that.
Hey Randy. Looks like your off of FB, but I have the CO26 Registry that you were messaging me about almost done.
Yes no more facebook but I am really interested in the registry
@@SVOpal I’ll let you know when it’s available. Have made a lot of progress for both JJT and JR boats.
Hard graft
We should be due an update soon 😂
Update coming soon been a hard winter. We have a new engine and we are trying to get the old one out.
No boat has ever sank from blisters. Bottom paint a splash. Blisters are like bumps on a golf ball and makes the boat go faster. Making a small blister a bigger patch may be counter productive.
Small to big if it were me.
You do you and I will do me. And these are not small blisters. Sound hull sound mind. But thanks for your comments.
Hire a good surveyor and buy the boat without the blisters. If it is 40-or more, years old with zero blisters, it will likely never get blisters. It's worth the extra money to never have that problem.
But why would I want to do that? This is my project boat and she is being saved she is a classic. We have other boats that we sail but this girl is special.
@@SVOpalOk. Whatever floats your boat. But for people who just want a nice boat to sail, avoid the ones with problems. Otherwise you'll never leave the dock.
Is it necessary to dry out the blisters for months at a time?
Yes, I have seen some people pull a vacuum on the hull but that is beyond me. It is very important to dry the hull out as much as you can.
Sorry for the late reply.
It looks like the majority of the blisters are below the water line. True?
Yes all of them are below the blue line.
Always, no osmotic pressure out of water.
Have Nots or have Yachts man
To funny.