It is important to let people know that Black goes to brass and White to silver side of the plug. If someone installs it up-side-down (reversed) the plug would not have the right polarity which could affect devices plugged into it.
Well ac power changes polarity depending on the frequncy. If its 60hz the polarity will be changed 60 Times a second. So polarity dosent really matter. Current flow on the other hand could matter. If the device got an internal fuse.
@@kennielanner8173 my parents' clothes dryer was wired up by the contractor with one phase reversed with neutral. Worked fine under normal conditions for years. Eventually one of the ceramic hooks that holds the heating element broke, and the element grounded out against the body of the dryer. If it had been wired correctly, that element would have been shorting neutral to ground with the dryer off, effectively harmless. Instead, it shorted line voltage to ground. This incident happened at night, and had my brother not stayed up to move laundry or hadn't noticed that the heating element was still glowing with the door open, it might have started a fire while we were asleep.
Electrician here: Please note, that the 50 cent receptacles you mentioned in your video appear to Eaton brand (non TR "tamper resistant"). The National Fire Protection Association/NEC Artical 406.12 states: All 15- and 20-ampere, 125- and 250-volt nonlocking-type receptacles in the areas specified in 406.12(1) through (7) shall be listed tamper-resistant receptacles. Just wanted to Let people know that it IS a code requirement to use TR listed Receptacles. Other than that, I found your instructions to be clear and very thorough. Good Job. Anyone who does not feel comfortable testing and verifying a dead circuit should consider hiring a qualified electrician to do this type of work. I can't stress enough how dangerous electricity can be! Please act with care!
Just to let you know, the top and bottom screws are connected. It doesn't matter what screw you connect the wires to as long as you keep the whites (neutral) on the silver screws and the blacks (hot) on the brass screws. It only slightly matters for split plugs when the top or bottom is controlled via switch and the other half is always live. Typically the red wire will be the switched one and where you put it will be the switched half. Where it does matter is GFCI outlets.
not a requirement, or "code" just IMHO a good idea ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/650539 and a longer discussion www.mikeholt.com/technical-grounding-Receptacles-Ground-Up-or-Ground-Down-(9-23-99).php meant no disrespect my friend, just my 2 cents, should have elaborated more on my comment. over all a decent instructional video, and great job on all the safety instructions! and links to the tools!
@@danford8989 Or you could label your breakers instead of buying a tool useful for just one thing. A multimeter is a far better purchase than that thing.
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It is important to let people know that Black goes to brass and White to silver side of the plug. If someone installs it up-side-down (reversed) the plug would not have the right polarity which could affect devices plugged into it.
Agreed. Thanks!
Well ac power changes polarity depending on the frequncy. If its 60hz the polarity will be changed 60 Times a second. So polarity dosent really matter. Current flow on the other hand could matter. If the device got an internal fuse.
As the saying goes, 'Black to brass saves your ass'.
@@kennielanner8173 Thanks, that was what I was trying to say but didn't use the correct terms.
@@kennielanner8173 my parents' clothes dryer was wired up by the contractor with one phase reversed with neutral. Worked fine under normal conditions for years. Eventually one of the ceramic hooks that holds the heating element broke, and the element grounded out against the body of the dryer. If it had been wired correctly, that element would have been shorting neutral to ground with the dryer off, effectively harmless. Instead, it shorted line voltage to ground. This incident happened at night, and had my brother not stayed up to move laundry or hadn't noticed that the heating element was still glowing with the door open, it might have started a fire while we were asleep.
Electrician here: Please note, that the 50 cent receptacles you mentioned in your video appear to Eaton brand (non TR "tamper resistant"). The National Fire Protection Association/NEC Artical 406.12 states: All 15- and 20-ampere, 125- and 250-volt nonlocking-type receptacles in the areas specified in 406.12(1) through (7) shall be listed tamper-resistant receptacles.
Just wanted to Let people know that it IS a code requirement to use TR listed Receptacles. Other than that, I found your instructions to be clear and very thorough. Good Job.
Anyone who does not feel comfortable testing and verifying a dead circuit should consider hiring a qualified electrician to do this type of work. I can't stress enough how dangerous electricity can be! Please act with care!
Just to let you know, the top and bottom screws are connected. It doesn't matter what screw you connect the wires to as long as you keep the whites (neutral) on the silver screws and the blacks (hot) on the brass screws. It only slightly matters for split plugs when the top or bottom is controlled via switch and the other half is always live. Typically the red wire will be the switched one and where you put it will be the switched half. Where it does matter is GFCI outlets.
I also like to cover the terminals with electrical tape
yup not an electrician, ground goes up
From the searching I did, there is no requirement for the ground to be up or down. If it is required, could you cite your source?
not a requirement, or "code" just IMHO a good idea
ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/650539
and a longer discussion
www.mikeholt.com/technical-grounding-Receptacles-Ground-Up-or-Ground-Down-(9-23-99).php
meant no disrespect my friend, just my 2 cents, should have elaborated more on my comment.
over all a decent instructional video, and great job on all the safety instructions! and links to the tools!
Why would you use two different specialized tools instead of a multimeter?
I like that voltage meter, if the outlet is super far from the breaker you can hear it squealing until you get the correct breaker switched off. :)
@@danford8989 Or you could label your breakers instead of buying a tool useful for just one thing. A multimeter is a far better purchase than that thing.
@@FEARmeify which this tool would make quick work for.
There are multiple ways to do just about everything. I used these because that's what I have.
A good multimeter is more expensive. Also if you don't know how to use one you can blow it up.