Arc'teryx Alpine Academy - Roping up for Glaciers

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ย. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 6

  • @barryalbutt1206
    @barryalbutt1206 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Top job " really enjoyed the pace and technical information..

  • @brianharder7714
    @brianharder7714 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Belaying the first out from the common starting point would be a nice addition here as a means of safely getting all the rope out without the risks you mention.

  • @frankblangeard8865
    @frankblangeard8865 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Starting at 3:18 you can see a team moving roped on the glacier with very short rope between them and allowing slack in the rope.

  • @tubefreakmuva
    @tubefreakmuva ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Where are they?

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The series was filmed in the Vallee Blanche, above Chamonix

  • @nepal6091
    @nepal6091 6 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Safety videos are always good, however many show either 'book' info or techniques that do not work in real life. Each team seen walking off in this vid has butterflies tied between rope team members and this is amateurish. Any guide who has actually conducted self or partner rescues knows this (as I have for 30 years). A person 'prussiking' out of a crevasse does not want to contend with knots tied in the rope, and a hauling system set up on the main load-bearing rope cannot be used w/o problematic modification when knots are involved. Additionally, IF team members are following proper protocol, the knots (which were added to cut into the lip to stop the fallen climber from pulling the next person into the crevasse, theoretically), no one gets pulled in anyway. If members are roped far enough apart (minimum of 6m for our guides) the next team member will not even get pulled off her/his feet and the member falling through a hidden crevasse will only go in up to their waist normally.
    Be safe
    RJF