Chevy Tahoe - Rear Door Locks Do Not Work
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we have a look at at a 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe that is having problems with the rear power door locks. We show how to tell if you have a wiring issue, relay, fuse, contact plate or just a simple bad door lock actuator. --Enjoy
Interested in stuff seen in the videos or the tools and toys Eric O. likes and uses? Check out the S.M.A. "A-Store" and help support the channel! : astore.amazon.c...
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: / southmainauto
THANKS A MILLION!!
--Eric O.
WANT AN "SMA" STICKER OF YOUR OWN!?!
Simply send and E-mail to SMAstickers@outlook.com including: your shipping address and e-mail address in the text, I in turn will send you a paypal invoice for $5 each USA or $6 each international. Let me know how many you want and as soon as the paypal invoice is paid I will ship them out ASAP! Thanks for your support of our channel!!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
Hey there Mr. O. Newer viewer here. Just ran across this video and had to let u know this. I also have a 99 Tahoe and it has the same problem so I think this should help a lot. But what I found extremely funny is when u said this one had about 250,000 and had motor and trans swaps. My Tahoe has 450,000 and has the 5.7L Vortec and the trans that came in it. Most people don't believe me when I tell em that. It was my dads and I got it when he past away in 2010. So its been with the family for most of its life. It has mostly all of its factory equipment so both he and I have had to do very little repairs to it. It has been recked a couple time and it looks like hammered hell but I wouldn't trade it for anything. Well maybe a great 1964 & 1/2 Mustang. My dream car. Maybe I can send u a picture of my Tahoe just for shats and grins. LOL. Anyway, keep up all the good advice and videos.. BTW, we also have a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica with the 3.5L V6 that I got for my wife for Christmas and BOY is she not happy. I am having a big problem getting it to run. Cranks but won,t start up. I have watched many videos but no dice. It also dose not get gas from the tank to motor. Had a bad timing belt and I changed it and water pump and bearings. Anywho, I would love to see u do a video or maybe a little series of videos on the Chrysler Pacifica. Thanks again, and I WILL KEEP WATCHING.
Don't know if this helps: assuming your "green crusties" are the same as the green stuff in electronics where alkaline batteries have been left in too long, instead of scraping the green (which can degrade the underlying terminals), wipe it with some Qtips dipped in white vinegar. Dissolves the green stuff instantly, and usually leaves the underlying terminals shiny and functional. I've restored a lot of things this way that other folks just throw away.
perfect video because of how absolutely thorough every step was
I've probably replaced over 50 of the actuators in 94' to 99' Silverado's, Sieras, and Yukon's, I have drilled every one of them, takes about five minutes, never ever have scratched the paint, it is a whole lot easier to gouge the paint with those high-speed grinders. But to each his own. But as for the diagnosis, you have got to be one of the best men I have ever seen to logically diagnose a problem no matter what brand or make vehicle. You are sorta like Yoda, Umm Help You I will...All kidding aside, you are like Yoda in that you obviously have worked on vehicles a LONG TIME! You have a vast amount of knowledge of the inner workings of electrical from wiring harnesses to ECM's/PCM's, Just my kinda guy!
...I agree, Carefully and properly drilling rivets out is the only way to go! ...IMHO!
That is the cleanest vapor barrier I have ever seen around here in az nobody has non touched vapor barriers impressive Eric O @8:10 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Hey Eric I am a technician in Va. Beach working at a general repair shop. Your videos are really helpful ad have shown me tips, tricks and ways to properly diagnose in different situations...keep up the good work...
Yeah I work for myself been doing this 40 plus years and he has showed me a lot of short cuts and has helped me too
You are the best mechanic I have ever seen all the different jobs you do and make them look so simple. Wish you were in Rhode Island!
Early squad! I see a SMA notification, I immediately stop what I am doing!
A GMT400! Great trucks! I imagine it is hard to find any good ones in New York due to all the salt.
Thanks for another great video, Eric!
I have been meaning to say THANKs to ya. I have watched so many of your vids---you would say i've been going "hog wild". I grew up with very little and when my car broke down, I had to fix it or else I was going nowhere. So, that's my mechanical experience.
Since I'm retired now I take care of my family's and friends cars/trucks now that don't have the cash to take to someone.
I have learned so much from you and sincerely want to thank you. You have great teaching skills. Keep up the great work.
In appreciation,
Bill
way to go... making something as boring as door locks somehow seem interesting....good stuff doc
Six years later... THANK YOU!!
my barn doors have the same problem, 99 Tahoe as well.
I don't really use it much and it still locks/unlocks with the key so i'm not bothered much by it.
Impressed the Tahoe looks so good compared to mine when theyre the same age.
A 20 yr old chev still on the road in NY
Good one Eric, keep them coming, just saw the one where Mrs. O changed her tires and oil, quiet a lady, love her initiative....Runs the shop and is raising children too. Fantastic!!!
Hi Eric. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive on the clear plastic cover. Comes off like a charm. From across the pond.
Thanks I have to try that
"Torqued to spec..." I'm dead!!! Eric is the man!
Very nice truck for '99 and in the rust belt. I have a '99 Suburban that I will not let go of. Too simple to work on and parts are readily available at any auto parts store. Great job Eric. Thanks for sharing.
Seems like the actuator rods are not free moving in the door which may have burnt out the actuator. Excellent video.
This guy does good work man, straituo. Wish he lived in Canada.
J-O-B was pretty simple no job too small or too big for the SMA/Eric O. Thanks for the video A +
Thanks man!
Nice job Eric, especially with getting the old rivets out without marking the paintwork.
Genuine ac delco parts nowadays might as well be dorman. Watching Eric fight the door was priceless!
anywhere but china
Hey Eric O. Really appreciate your videos you teach a lot of what you would miss in the class
Eric, it is still easier to drill them out. Yes, even after they spin. Just hold the drill at an angle and I drills right through them.
I do that first then drill them out and use pop rivets to reinstall them
You have the patience of a saint. I would've gotten my circular saw and cut the entire rear door - from the outside - to get to that actuator. I hate rivets :) Love your videos!!!
Eric awesome job i was happy you saved the plastic barrrier. When i went to the dealer they ripped plastic barrier How i found out the truck was a bit noiser When barrier was placed in It is there for a reason Good job Glad you do honest and professional work
Heat gun will make water seal easier to remove. Maybe I've been lucky, but I always drill the rivits out. Only had a few that spun. I used to replace marker lights on van bodies. Us a punch to knock the pin out first then drill. Thanks and keep up the good work. Big hello yes on air riviter.
Happy 4th Eric O. I know you talk a lot about not getting older vehicles in the shop to work on but to me, I love it! I drive older cars and ive always wanted to know/see how those actuators worked. I also appreciate that the smaller details, such as the squashed boot on the new oem actuator, wasnt right. Thank god you waited the extra day and threw the Dorman option out the window. A+ again. Thank u for making these types of videos because few creators do. I love them.
Glad you liked it Kenneth :D
SMA holiday edition! I'm amazed the new actuator worked with the contact plate missing when you closed the door. Is it some type of high tech wireless contact? Magic technology or that's some slick editing! The magic of video! Have a Happy Independence Day.
lol..... i was just just going to say the same thing..... its like that clever wireless charging they have on phones now... clever stuff..... H I D
I think Eric is testing us to see if we are paying attention.lol
:-)... i bet he was actually kicking himself after already making the mistake with the door open.... we've all done the stupid ones lol.... i always remember taking a chunk out of my knuckles checking the rear bearing on on old british mini.... after the pain settled i checked the other side...... DOWN TO THE BONE!!!!.... great vid as always though
It bothered me the whole time that he left the connector hanging lose to get damaged that whole time, and even the next day, still apart. Sloppy.
Thank God Dr O is back. Have a great 4th of July today sir.
Great video thank you I got a 2000 tahoe given to me on the day my oldest sister passed my my brother sweet
So there is a use for the Power Probe. Using the old screws to make somebody crazy, you know it will! Happy Independence Day to you and your family.
Haha yeah I bust it out once in a while
You rock, Eric O!!! Thanks for all the tips and tricks.
The ONLY channel I'm subscribed to!
Thanks :)
A timely video for me, I need to do the same for my father's '03 Tahoe. The problem is further upstream in this one, it effects both rear passenger doors and the rear cargo doors, both front doors work just fine.
Pop rivet gun ,2" angle grinder and power probe, essential tools for a fast turnaround. Not overly expensive but worth having on standby !! No Looney Tunes at the beginning-------God be with the days 🎥🎬.
Nice video, I own that year Tahoe. Whenever I open a door panel, I coat the inside with a spray oil to hopefully cut the rust.
You could also have it Krowned too
hey Eric, I use my Sheffield pocket knife and cut the glue holding the plastic. works like a champ:/
Using the old screws!!! What the thunder!!! Lol!!! Love those 90s Chevy trucks. Happy Fourth of July😁😁
Hi Eric your the only bloke i have ever seen to that, with the tester cause a dead short to throw the breaker out. i used to do it all the time with mine, surprised few other people dont do it, prob think its cowboy tactics lol...Fred.
Happy Independence Day!
I installed Dorman lock actuators in our '86 Grand Marquis - the driver's door one only lasted 4 years before she had too much cheese too - bound up solid. Was interesting how those things work - I always pictured them like a solenoid, but instead it was a steeply threaded rod that spun at high RPM to pull the lock up and down. Pretty neat engineering there.
When that Dorman junk failed, I took the OE rear door unit out, swapped the rods out to each, and swapped the unit from front to back - I can live with a dead rear door. Strange thing about it was, electrically it still worked fine ... but if you tried to lock or unlock the door with the key, you'd twist the key into a pretzel before it would move (not that I tried, lol). No key hole on rear door, so all is well ... for now.
The junk rubber boots weresmoked the day I installed them. Dorman really is terrible with most of their product lines ...
it's all garbage, even the OEM parts, else they;d not be bad yet ;)
Awesome! SMA 4th of July special! Thanks man!
You are grinding on an aluminum rivet....that's a no-no. Knock the steel mandrel out of the rivet with a pin punch, then drill the rivet heads off. Faster, cleaner, no paint damage. If they spin, hold the drill bit at about a 10 degree angle. They'll still spin, but the bit WILL remove the heads. Love your vids.
Your video will help me when my barn doors won't unlock,thanks.Oh,and btw it is nice to work on rust free vehicles(SoCal :)).
This is my first post but have watched almost all of your videos,love 'em.
Great vid., dude, but rivets are drilled out for easy removal. Like your stuff.
Not securing the door and using the old screws, that's a sure way to get more comments. TH-cam marketing brilliance right there!
That little angle grinder, is it now we're gonna say: Oh, so cute!? Thx for sharing. ☺
Thumbs up video. Great diagnostic. Nice, sharp looking hat!
Love the face your making when your driving the rivets out 😂
man, you are a genius. congrats!!
The door isn't a jar it's a door. ;-) LOL
Another great fix @ SMA.
I hope you have a great Independence Day...
Done right as always. Too bad that old boot couldn't be switched, even though it was old it looked like better quality than the virtually transparently thin one from mexico-lol As a famous comedian once said - ya cant have everything, where would you put it - lol
Getting 1st on one of Eric's vids is tough!
No shit, jeez!
Sweet ! Glad to see you fixing a battle iv found with my tahoe. If i could add in what ive been finding that adds to these problems like these is 1. weather stripping surrounding the entire opening was collecting anything imaginable running off the roof beeing drivin, parked under a tree or whatever u can imagin, possibly even gold if you were to pan the filth cleaned possibly paying to add two cents to the issues ™️. Cleaning it out and treating the stripping to bring the life back into it allowing the rubber to soften and squeeze to really close and latch as it should.and stop the slamming door sound . Remember it needs to be maintained just like urr paint, oil etc.
# as well. Hosing it out should work
#2 degreasing the old stock grease or whatever ms been used to lubticate them use Per chilton manual a dry graphite lube or something that wont collect anything that touches it like a fly trap.
#3 makes sure olugs and contacts are clean and operate properly using light dielectric grease to keep the contacts from corroding. Thats all i got. From me to you keep them hoes clean! Chevy tahoes that is😅
Easy enough fix, gotta love 'em. Thanks for the video.
I like the air riveter !
Drilling the rivets works fine if you use the right size drill and technique. I've done hundreds of window regulators that way.. very minor amt of chiseling, if at all.
Great fix Eric O 👍🏻
There's a lot of unused tool @SMA. I think Mrs O should be aloud to dispose off for the holiday fund 😜
Mr O, why grind off the rivets? Would drilling have been quicker or easier with less risk to the paint? I m assuming that they were just pop rivets.
Never mind. I was typing my question as you started grinding. You explained your reasoning when you broke out the chisel.
Okay, well, when I get myself a Tahoe with a bad actuator I'll know how to diagnose/replace it. Sweet! Thanks Dr. O! Happy 4th to all the O's!
Baxrok2 cheers, same to you!
All this troubleshooting and watching you work is making me hungry. whats Mrs. O cooking, I hope its something with Bacon. :) LOL
Just had steak for dinner
didnt think that panel was hard compared to newer ones.Time for a live show maybe a live repair show and then put the fam on and lets us know all is well with the O"s
I found that drilling just enough of the rivet head. And then chisel it, works good. Just the tip of the drill. At least it works for me.
Good, informative video. My Door jamb switch is bad (the one with 5 plungers) can you tell me the part number to replace it? Nothing marked on switch. Thanks.
great video eric thanks for posting
Happy fourth to you and your family Mr. O ! Don't blow anything up , like your house ! Great video , as usual . We know you dislike doorman junk ,have you ever used 1 Aauto parts ?
I never clicked on a notification for any video as fast as I did for this one. You saved my life Eric.
Damn! you had to steal my thunder by posting a video today also! Happy 4th to you and the family Eric!
through the magic of editing I see you put back that door contact when testing the new actuator :P When you went to shut the door the wiring harness was unplugged and hanging out of the door. I was thinking... that's not going to work lol
Happy Independence Day to the Os!
I see you edited out the part where you forgot to put the contact plate back on the door when checking the new actuator.
I like that test light you have.. it seems like it makes it easy to see if any alectricals are making contact. I've seen it on previous videos. Is that a home made or did you buy it? Now I want one. 😎👍
Oh the Chevy bashing hurts but so true on these Burbs and Tahoe's. I had one with 212000 had a crate engine at 140 and 3 Transmission Rebuilds. 1 was my own. It was a dealership car and had excellent records. I still like Chevy though Dad had a work truck that was ran hard , the old 3 on the tree with a 305 I tortured when I was 16 and you couldn't kill that CHIVY. Still a chevy guy
Just upped my Patreon contribution to you. Thanks for the great videos!!!
Once more Eric you have given me tool envy. :o)
good video eric o nice rivet gun eric Thanks for the good video's Can you make some longer video's?
I know I would prefer that rivets not be used in 95% of the situations that they are. What is your thoughts on that Eric? I for got the the rived usually just spins. I grew up with a father who was a mechanic. I should have remembered that the rives tend to spin. IS that siren that I have heard in this video and others from the local fire station? I really like those fire station sirens most of the time. I live in a suburb of St. Paul, Minnesota and my local fire station still uses theirs for (fire) calls and 3 times a day (noon, 6 pm and 9 pm).
Love your videos Eric! I have learned a lot from you. Especially regarding a lab scope.
Thanks man!
Strange how this one seems to have less rust than the 2011 that you showed recently
I have a 1999 Tahoe I bought used in 2011 and the rear door lock would work intermittently. The first thing I found was that the contacts at the top of the door were corroded. After cleanup it would trigger OK but not always perform it's function. BTW, the contacts on the other door are for the defroster wires.
Tearing it down I found that someone had been there before. The actuator and it's bracket were sitting on the floor of the door. In one direction the actuator would actually lift itself off the floor and the weight of it would pull the lock down. In the other direction since it was on the floor it could push fairly well.
The rivets were long gone and they had tried to put it on with bolts and nuts but due to the lack of internal access getting the bolts to stay still to tighten things down wasn't possible and they gave up. If the electrical connections were as bad then as when I got it the actuator may not have been responding contributing to the abandonment. Since I didn't know it had originally been fastened with rivets I changed a few things around with the bolts. I put in two with a nut right on the bracket to hold them in place - since it worked free floating the actuator could obviously tolerate being 1/8 inch to the left. I put it in place and marked the bolts so I could cut off excess after I mounted nuts on them on the outside of the door where the rivets would have been. It's been working fine and it's been over 10 years.
Good job thanks for sharing this
love the vids! keep up the great work! kinda wish you were here in Colorado, i don't trust mechanics, but I would let you work on any of my vehicle's.
Good vid, Eric, Thanks... wait, did I see someone using a cutoff wheel to grind with... couldn't be!!! LOL
job well done as usual only thing I'd do differently is I'd changed boots over as that would annoy the piss out me
Put the door panel back on and no one knows haha... but you would :)
FYI for the home mechanic, those actuators are rebuildable.
Great Video!
Thank you!
I believe if you pull on that flat metal strip that is by the hinge of the door it will lock it so it wont close.
Good job dude.
Looks like it could use some sort of retainer on the linkage where it connects to the actuator...
it's a rubber bushing and the "spearhead" end of linkage snaps through tight. they rarely come out, except for total rubber dry-rot failure. chinesium :)
I like the 4 amp test light
dr.o
happy 4th of July Eric o.
WOW !! What a RIVETING episode.
Drilling out the rivets works much better despite what you said.
Happy 4th of July Eric!!!
no joke with that GM plastic, no matter how careful you are something will break. thankfully there's JB weld and clear silicone to glue everything back :)
Hey Erico whats the type of screw/bolt driver your using ?
my truck has 324000 and still has it original motor and transmission and have not had to replace it yet but being a mechanic I just take care of my my stuff