Great video, loved the comparison between changed and unchanged. I've been trying to get that smooth sound ever since i got my rhodes a couple of weeks ago, now i know it's the dried out grommets that are causing it. Thanks!
Well this video is just focused on replacing grommets so obviously many other aspects are left out. If you think there are some important bits we've missed we'd love to hear about them. Cheers, Greg
when i pick up the sound directly from the cinch connection at the left behind, so i omit the bass and volume regulation, the sound is very much clearer. The volume control somehow damps the brilliance. What is your advise do to about that
Hey Ludo, YES bypassing the passive controls is generally a big improvement. On the passive Rhodes the volume and bass can really only reduce the signal (or amount of bass) coming from the harp and they generally make the overall sound worse. (A lot of that has to do with how impedance and resistance is affecting the sound.) You should definitely check out the RetroFlyer which will retrofit into a passive Rhodes giving you an active volume, eq and tremolo. But if you don't have a RetroFlyer, I would continue going directly from the harp, it will sound better. It's not that there's anything wrong with your controls, it's simply that the passive controls will never sound as good. I hope that helps. Best, Greg - Avion Studios
My 1989 suitcase sounds great but some lower keys sound a bit dead, like a bass guitar. Horrible. I'm going to replace grommets and screws as some of my tome bars swing like hell if I try and voice the bad notes.
Well that can be an issue sometimes. If you're trying to avoid stripping the screw then generally some vice-grips will work alright to get it started moving. Impact drivers also have good success if you have one around. But I'd try pliers/vice grips around the head of the screw first. Let us know if that works for you! All the best, Greg
@@livegun5572 Well.....it may technically help, but it shouldn't be necessary. Plus you'll avoid having your Rhodes smell like wd-40 for a while. You shouldn't need lubrication once it's freed up unless something unusual is going on. Even then a less odiferous lubricant...like a clp or a teflon would be better.
sweet! I just got a rhodes and it's my first restoration job. these vids are helping me a ton!
That's awesome! Let us know if you ever have any questions. We're always happy to help. 🔥🎹👍
Great video, loved the comparison between changed and unchanged. I've been trying to get that smooth sound ever since i got my rhodes a couple of weeks ago, now i know it's the dried out grommets that are causing it.
Thanks!
So much more involved than presented.
Well this video is just focused on replacing grommets so obviously many other aspects are left out. If you think there are some important bits we've missed we'd love to hear about them. Cheers, Greg
when i pick up the sound directly from the cinch connection at the left behind, so i omit the bass and volume regulation, the sound is very much clearer. The volume control somehow damps the brilliance. What is your advise do to about that
Hey Ludo, YES bypassing the passive controls is generally a big improvement. On the passive Rhodes the volume and bass can really only reduce the signal (or amount of bass) coming from the harp and they generally make the overall sound worse. (A lot of that has to do with how impedance and resistance is affecting the sound.) You should definitely check out the RetroFlyer which will retrofit into a passive Rhodes giving you an active volume, eq and tremolo. But if you don't have a RetroFlyer, I would continue going directly from the harp, it will sound better. It's not that there's anything wrong with your controls, it's simply that the passive controls will never sound as good. I hope that helps. Best, Greg - Avion Studios
My 1989 suitcase sounds great but some lower keys sound a bit dead, like a bass guitar. Horrible. I'm going to replace grommets and screws as some of my tome bars swing like hell if I try and voice the bad notes.
* 1980 *
do u have any suggestion on what to do with my screws? it is stuck. maybe because of the dried old grommet. it just wont turn
Well that can be an issue sometimes. If you're trying to avoid stripping the screw then generally some vice-grips will work alright to get it started moving. Impact drivers also have good success if you have one around. But I'd try pliers/vice grips around the head of the screw first. Let us know if that works for you! All the best, Greg
thanks, one more question,does the usage of wd 40 will help?
@@livegun5572 Well.....it may technically help, but it shouldn't be necessary. Plus you'll avoid having your Rhodes smell like wd-40 for a while. You shouldn't need lubrication once it's freed up unless something unusual is going on. Even then a less odiferous lubricant...like a clp or a teflon would be better.
Avion Studios well, im gonna try ur suggestions.my screws are really hard to remove because of age. ill update u if anything works. thanks a lot