Even though I don't have a Bridgeport mill, I'm still enjoying your fine and rebuild details. Ditto on the two comments regarding better camera angle, lighting, exposure, etc. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to more.
Greg, That was cool that you got to talk to the guy that was in charge of the dept. It looks like at one end of the board is some SCRs/diodes wired into a full-wave configuration. This way you could rectify the AC and control the duty cycle of the power at the same time. That's obviously a DC motor, with it being reversible and the brushes, etc. Like it's been mentioned, look for electrolytic capacitors that have bulging tops as they are partially shorted and are going to blow in the near future. Even if the caps look good, it wouldn't hurt to check them as they could also be open if the electrolyte has dried out. Capacitors are cheap. You can get them from Mouser Electronics or Allied Electronics or your local electronics supply store, if you have one. Sorry to ramble on. Thanks for the video and good luck with your project! Have a good one! Dave
I've rebuilt brushed CNC servo motors that have similar construction. There are rubber disc seals over the ends of the brushes to stop oil, cutting fluid etc from getting in. You can pull them out with a pick.
While you've got the electronics apart you might consider just replacing the electrolytic capacitors (if any). The mill is old enough that they must be pretty dried out by now and their series resistance is pretty high. They're generic, readily available and easy to replace with the through hole '70's PCB technology. I'm sure you'll be able to see some with domed tops indicating they're on their last legs.
A few tips to improve the quality of your already very informative videos: 1. Turn off Auto exposure if you can. 2. Manually focus the camera (if possible). Use a fill light to lower contrast and allow us to see inside the box. Nit-picking, I know, but as machinists always striving for that extra tenth, every little bit helps.
Hi.. do you have schematic diagram with clear part list of 6F powerfeed board. Or can you take photo the top and rear of the board. I will try to recreate the pcb to my bridgeport . Thank you
You might be able to get the motor open without too much trouble. It looked like the screws on the face hold that part of the casing on. With them removed, the brushes removed and the snap ring off the back of the shaft, the whole armature and case front should slide out. There are probably a few screws inside holding the field windings in, or it might be held in place by the front casing. If this is correct, you'd just need to feed the cord through the grommet as the windings are pulled out the front.
I tried getting those screws out and they wouldn't budge even with my impact driver. Figured it wasn't worth breaking something because I know it works.
+Halligan142 I would have kept at it until I got in or broke something. It's good you know which battles to fight and it still works with the old cord. Thanks for making these videos; I really enjoy watching them.
Congrats on the mill. Nice payback for all the hard work you put into your TH-cam channel. Jumping ahead a little bit I am guessing the Bridgeport uses a 3 phase drive motor. Are you lucky enough to have 3 phase power at home or have you looked into phase converter options yet? I want to pick up a mill at some point and I am still trying to work out the best power option. I am interested in seeing what you come up with when you get it ready to run.
I was watching your video on cleaning your Bridgeport power feed. I have the same one with a bad circuit board. I don't know the model number. Can you help? Can you suggest where to find a replacement board?
It's a model 6f You can get one here. www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/711121 It's pricey and will require modification to install. Your other option would be to search eBay for one or buy a whole new servo style one and install that.
One of the things I found to be an enormous help is to get a bunch of boxes at HF. You know the large storage containers. www.harborfreight.com/24-compartment-large-storage-container-61881.html So you can keep your parts separate. When I rebuilt my lathe I took it completely apart, and having different boxes for different segments worked well. Good luck on your new acquisition.
Great video series, I love watching old Iron put back in service. One thing though, these videos are kind-of like amateur Japanese porn, poor lighting and every time it looks like I'm going to see something good a large stubble-covered melon blocks out the details. You've inspired me to finally work on my Bridgeport. Unfortunately mine isn't Harvard educated and I'm afraid when I get it torn-down and cleaned-up I'm going to have an angry old pig staring back at me. Keep the videos coming just change the camera angle a bit. Thanks, Steve
That is really amazing history there. Really excellent that you were able to track that gentleman down.
Even though I don't have a Bridgeport mill, I'm still enjoying your fine and rebuild details. Ditto on the two comments regarding better camera angle, lighting, exposure, etc. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to more.
You got a sweet deal there! I have the same feed on my Bridgeport and always wondered what it looked like inside. You will really enjoy having it.
Greg,
That was cool that you got to talk to the guy that was in charge of the dept. It looks like at one end of the board is some SCRs/diodes wired into a full-wave configuration. This way you could rectify the AC and control the duty cycle of the power at the same time. That's obviously a DC motor, with it being reversible and the brushes, etc. Like it's been mentioned, look for electrolytic capacitors that have bulging tops as they are partially shorted and are going to blow in the near future. Even if the caps look good, it wouldn't hurt to check them as they could also be open if the electrolyte has dried out. Capacitors are cheap. You can get them from Mouser Electronics or Allied Electronics or your local electronics supply store, if you have one. Sorry to ramble on. Thanks for the video and good luck with your project!
Have a good one!
Dave
I've rebuilt brushed CNC servo motors that have similar construction. There are rubber disc seals over the ends of the brushes to stop oil, cutting fluid etc from getting in. You can pull them out with a pick.
Very cool history, thanks for sharing!
While you've got the electronics apart you might consider just replacing the electrolytic capacitors (if any). The mill is old enough that they must be pretty dried out by now and their series resistance is pretty high. They're generic, readily available and easy to replace with the through hole '70's PCB technology. I'm sure you'll be able to see some with domed tops indicating they're on their last legs.
Nice story about the past use of the mill. Keep on scrubbing.
A few tips to improve the quality of your already very informative videos: 1. Turn off Auto exposure if you can. 2. Manually focus the camera (if possible). Use a fill light to lower contrast and allow us to see inside the box. Nit-picking, I know, but as machinists always striving for that extra tenth, every little bit helps.
Hi.. do you have schematic diagram with clear part list of 6F powerfeed board. Or can you take photo the top and rear of the board. I will try to recreate the pcb to my bridgeport . Thank you
You might be able to get the motor open without too much trouble. It looked like the screws on the face hold that part of the casing on. With them removed, the brushes removed and the snap ring off the back of the shaft, the whole armature and case front should slide out. There are probably a few screws inside holding the field windings in, or it might be held in place by the front casing. If this is correct, you'd just need to feed the cord through the grommet as the windings are pulled out the front.
I tried getting those screws out and they wouldn't budge even with my impact driver. Figured it wasn't worth breaking something because I know it works.
+Halligan142 I would have kept at it until I got in or broke something. It's good you know which battles to fight and it still works with the old cord. Thanks for making these videos; I really enjoy watching them.
Congrats on the mill. Nice payback for all the hard work you put into your TH-cam channel.
Jumping ahead a little bit I am guessing the Bridgeport uses a 3 phase drive motor. Are you lucky enough to have 3 phase power at home or have you looked into phase converter options yet?
I want to pick up a mill at some point and I am still trying to work out the best power option. I am interested in seeing what you come up with when you get it ready to run.
Always enjoy your videos, however, better lighting and camera angles would make them even better.
I was watching your video on cleaning your Bridgeport power feed. I have the same one with a bad circuit board. I don't know the model number. Can you help? Can you suggest where to find a replacement board?
It's a model 6f
You can get one here.
www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/711121
It's pricey and will require modification to install. Your other option would be to search eBay for one or buy a whole new servo style one and install that.
One of the things I found to be an enormous help is to get a bunch of boxes at HF. You know the large storage containers. www.harborfreight.com/24-compartment-large-storage-container-61881.html So you can keep your parts separate. When I rebuilt my lathe I took it completely apart, and having different boxes for different segments worked well.
Good luck on your new acquisition.
hai..can i have ur email..i hve a question to ask on how to fix my motor on bridgeport br2j
Great video series, I love watching old Iron put back in service. One thing though, these videos are kind-of like amateur Japanese porn, poor lighting and every time it looks like I'm going to see something good a large stubble-covered melon blocks out the details.
You've inspired me to finally work on my Bridgeport. Unfortunately mine isn't Harvard educated and I'm afraid when I get it torn-down and cleaned-up I'm going to have an angry old pig staring back at me.
Keep the videos coming just change the camera angle a bit.
Thanks,
Steve
first lol :)
You need more light when recording your videos. Your work is a dark hole.