Awesome video. I just was given a 97 by my father in law which was used solely to haul deer out of the Maryland eastern shore swamps from 20 years. The front brake assemblies are solid rust. Being able to get those cylinders at that cost is a huge saver.
Yeas this machine was ahead of its time. Honda Was the first with 4x4, but suzuki countered with Diff lock, 3 gear ranges and independent front and rear suspension a year later.
Just started the rear brake on my 94 Quadrunner. It's been non functional for 19 years. Was able to free up everything and remove the shoes. The brake cam required a pry bar to pop it out, it was frozen (rusted) in place. Got everything cleaned and lubricated and just waiting on my pads from Amazon. Piece of cake! BTW, thanks for tip, I'll be getting my cylinder tomorrow for my fronts. Have to redo everything up front too 😁 Been using the gearing to stop, can't wait to have brakes again and do more trail riding. 25 years old and runs like a beast!!
You are the king of the 300 King Quads. I gave $400 for a '97 from my uncle, and though it's sat for 3 years, it really just needs the fuel pump and a carb rebuild. I'll be relying heavily on your vids as I start going through it. I miss my Honda 300 and 350 Rancher, but they didn't have 15 gears and diff lock ;)
Thanks for getting back . I rebuilt the carb with the help of your video and replaced the fuel cock and fuel pump as well as the fuel lines . my concern is the now contaminated crankcase . I've obviously drained the old oil , gas and water and will flush with a couple oil changes . I'm hoping that the clutches will be ok . That mess of fluids was in there for quite a while .
I used the same wheel cylinders you recommended, and the brake job. After finishing, when applying the front brakes, I noticed the shoes move, but just a very small amount. Mine is a quadrunner 250. Should the shoes move more than a 1/4 inch after the brake job and bleeding? Thank you for the excellent videos and the parts recommendations. Great job.
The Dorman W37850 wheel cylinders that you recommend have a 0.625 inch bore rather than a 0.5 inch bore as per the manual. I think this would increase the piston area by 25:16 or over 1.5 times which means the brake lever tip would need to move around an inch and a half to get the same piston travel as 1 inch movement of the lever tip with a half inch piston. Has this been seen as a problem for anyone? It is not just the bleeder that is different to the Suzuki OEM.
I had not looked into it that close. I have done 2 ATVs like this. Very little travel on the brake lever and you are stopped. No issues and it feels the same as the factory.
@@Schneids15 Thanks for the quick response. The larger piston will require less lever pressure but more movement. Knowing that you think it feels similar to factory gives me more confidence to go ahead and order a pair. Thanks and a great channel. I have made a few Quad Runner videos on my channel fixing the frame etc. Cheers, John
I'm repairing a brake issue on an 89 quadrunner 4wd, this video has been a great help. I know it's been 3 years+ since posting but if you could show a link to the replacement wheel cylinder you purchased I'd appreciate it. The one I bought on amazon is slightly too large and is blocking the brake drum, very annoying. Thanks again for the video!
Super helpful video. Dang near set me back five years of church trying to get the drum back on. lol I kept thinking the pads were not centered and didn't look at the mechanical stuff and simply using my noodle. Revisited the video and saw the magical latch adjustment. BTW what is the white plastic unconnected electrical female connector served by one green and one orange wire in the right side wheel well? I didn't see any male counterpart. thx
Can you use geo metro hardware also? Mine is missing everything behind brake drum besides wheel cylinders and need to find a adjuster for them even if it's not a self adjust
Keep up the great videos. You instructions really gave me the confidence to be able to get in there and start doing work myself instead of being beat over the head by the shop in my area. Case in point when I got my 98’ 300 back in the beginning of March the left front was locking up real bad. I know nothing about brakes or quads for that matter so I bring it to the shop. They had the machine for 4 weeks said the issue were after market brake shoes, and that they had to do some grinding to make the drum fit back on. Low an behold the wheel locked up while I was riding and almost threw me off. I start researching reading blogs and watching your videos I got the nerve to check the brake cylinders. I swapped them from one side to the other before ordering new ones and sure enough the problem moved with the cylinders. Looks like the pistons won’t close all the way when you release the brake lever. I also noticed they put the drums back on without dust seals.... I got all the parts in this morning. cylinders are in already, and fit like a glove. Gonna bleed them some time this week and install the dust seals. Let me ask, how the hell do I put the dust seal on? Will it just fit over the edge of the drum? Sorry to be so long winded, and really appreciate your know how.
Hey Anyhony, thanks for the kind words. Glad i could help. The dust shield should slide on. I have never tore mine off to answer that for sure but i imagine they just slip in like a weather stripping.
Schneids15 Thanks for the fast reply. Mine should arrive today. I reply to this comment when I get them on. Maybe it will help someone else with the same question going forward. Best, AA
This is great. Question. I have a 94 Suzuki ltf 250 with the similar set up. Front breaks sticking so took apart. To my surprise, mint condition in there as the quad has never been in mud or even water believe it or not. I took off the hub, and squeezed the brake lever. The wheel cylinder seems to be leaking as it dripped fluid from it. I guess I will have to order those and replace, but is it normal that now I can’t put the drum back on as the brakes now are too wide apart? Sorry for the dumb question but I’ve never done any work like this before.
Thanks Josh. I followed your info and replaced the brakes and cylinders on the front and the front now works great. But the rear still seems to be stuck in gear and can't get it in neutral to try and start. Thanks.
Thanks for your videos. They're helping a lot. Any suggestions for getting the front brake drum(s) off, when the brakes are frozen? Removed top of reservoir, to remove pressure, front wheels still won't move. Tried prying the drum for quite a while. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hey Ken. Only thing i would try is to unbolt the wheel cylinder and brake line from it and see if that helps. Otherwise it is just a miserable battle to try and get off.
Superb Brother! Got a customers 88 Quadrunner that Im about to do, and just wanted to see what Im about to get into...The cylinder tip from NAPA is Gold!!! TY for it
Love your videos great wealth of knowledge you did however forget to reuse gaskets off of Old wheel cylinders on new wheel cylinders. Water is going to flow right in. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks Anthony! Yeah i never put them back on. They were molded and i couldn’t get them to fit i remember. It is so hard to not have water flow in them even with seals. So i figured i’d leave them out. Been a few years and no issues👍🏻
I rebuilt my front breaks, but my break lever pulls about 2/3 in before it is firm. There are no bubbles in the lines or cylinders (that I can tell). Any thoughts? I bled and rebled about 20 times and couldn't get any better. Could it by my self adjuster?
OK---so I pulled off the drive flange nut and pulled out the drive flange before I watched the video--now I know why you said to not remove the flange....there is a collar inside that needs to stay centered in place, to allow the flange sleeve to be reinserted back....is that collar normally loose, or another issue? I'm wondering if I can pack some fresh grease back inside and it will hold that collar centered again, or do you have another thought? Are there other pieces inside I should remove or service, as long as I've gone this far? Live and learn, right? Thanks for the great tips--and demo.
Great video! Going to do this today, just coming back for a refresher. Got new cylinders delivered. Ebay 14 $ a piece. Thanks so much for brake cylinder part #. Would of never of replaced at 200$, but for 30$, I'll fo it. Brake pads are like new. Hoping I can just remove top spring and install cylinder. Also going to rebuild master cylinder at same time. Thanks for posting! 1994 300 king quad.
Hello i watch alot of your videos idk how quick you respond..i have a 97 king quad 300 and cant seem to bleed the brakes ..i watched you video on bleeding but seems maybe my master cylinder might not be pumping and answers..i also have a 95 king quad and i switched master cylinders and sane issue???
Just replaced my front wheel cylinders. For those in Australia, dealership price is $129 each cylinder. Exact same wheel cylinders I purchased is from a Suzuki Swift car at $20 each from a local brake business.
I did slide that in behind the scenes but forgot to mention it in the video. The seal fits the new wheel cylinder fine also. Thanks for the reminder. Good for everyone to learn off. Josh
hi josh .i have a 1999 300 king quad , rear brake cable is not working . there are two bolts on the rear of the rear brake housing that hold a metal piece that the cable runs beside and is not attached to it . the whole length of the cable just moves back and forth with the brake pedal and hand brake being applied . can not make adjust the cable at the brake pedal the cable appears to be too long and it is at the top of the adjustment . something is missing to secure the cable i believe . your thoughts
Hey pal love your videos , they help a lot , curious on the little engine coolant rad. Do you have any videos on how to flush out or on rad replacement .? I have a 1993 Suzuki quad runner 250.
Hey! Thank you. No i don’t sorry. If it was me i would pull off both hoses and flush diesel through the rad then along with clean motor oil and re install.
Hey Mark for sure you could do that. For what it takes it would probably be easier. I just however do stuff taking the smallest amount of stuff apart possible. Like you say would be way easier with the hub off i agree.
I have a front brake lever/master cylinder that the hand lever will not move. This 1994 quadrunner 250 has been sitting a few years. Does this indicate the brake shoes are frozen or your thoughts? Thanks.
Great video. Followed you suggestion, purchased and installed two. Perfect! Now I have a question. Have you replaced a front CV shaft and if so any chance there's a video (so far yours have been the best). Been on the hunt a replacement shaft for my '98 King Quad 300 and very hard to find. may have a lead on a TrakMotive that is a fit but other options would be appreciated from a fellow Canuck.
Hello Schneids15, I noticed you did not change the DUST SEAL on the DRUM BRAKE 54124-39D10 when you changed the front brake. I'm working on my 1999 King Quad and the seal is the original. It's surprisingly in good shape. Do you suggest changing it? Any suggestions? Thx, Erik
@@Schneids15 I've recently purchased a '98 KQ 300 in disrepair so I've found your videos quite useful. Except for a recently fried regulator the thing runs like a top now. I can see how they're considered a 'value fine' now, especially with that ultra-low gear.
Any idea where I can get those adjusters to save money? My local shop says a 1993 model im working on doesn't have them,in which they have to have them to work.
Great videos . I've been going through my 97 king quad that has been sitting for a few years.Do you have anything on the problem with fuel in the crankcase ?
Hi, modified my front brakes to disk brakes. I have the same quad (for my proposal, best quad ever made), the week point is this front brakes, they don't like water or mud...
Hey Schneids I have a 1993 Suzuki 300 King Quad 4x4 and I have enjoyed watching your videos on repairs for them. I recently had issues with the front brakes so I rebuilt the master cylinder and tried to bleed the brakes all to no avail. It was a gooy mess so since it wouldn't bleed i took each line off all the way to the wheel cylinders blew them out and reinstalled them and still they wouldn't bleed. then I rebuilt the wheel cylinders and reinstalled them and I still can't get the system to bleed out. What do you think I'm doing wrong or need to do to bleed the brakes?
They are very straight forward to bleed so i can’t see you messed that up. I would start with seeing if your master cylinder is pushing liquid good then try new wheel cylinders.
ok I took the master cylinder cable off and placed my thumb over the hole and the master cylinder will push my thumb away when it bleeds but after I connect the cable back up nothing. I also tied the handle back(opened) and allowed the fluid to drain down and after 2 days it finally got a little fluid to come out at the end before the splitter in line. I even took the bottom lines off at the splitter and forced fluid in the lines all the way to the wheel cylinder and I still ccan't get them to bleed
Hey bro sick i love the detail. Im in sault ste marie i have a 93 I need to do my inner rear u jointsthat go into the back chaincase can you do a video on that. And any idea why my 93 300 sais quadrunner but the vin sais the is a king?
Any tips for getting the air of out the lines? I let my reservoir go empty while I was doing my brakes - apparently I didn't pay enough attention to your video. :)
Great video. You pay attention to explaining the procedure very well. Many tutorials overlook those key details. I have a shop manual that explains a lot but a picture is worth a thousand words. Your videos really help to get me over the finish line! Thanks
Hey man! Just did my front brakes. However, there isn’t much stopping power for them. Hand lever is firm and everything has been bled but not brakes don’t lock up or grab. Is there a way to adjust them? Sorry to keep bugging you but appreciate the help. Thanks!
Yeah, i can’t figure it out. They work, just not much stopping power. Please let me know if you think of anything, and as always, thanks for an excellent video!
Hey Tim! Thanks for the advice, I actually replaced them both. The brakes didn’t work when I bought the quad so maybe the braking force is just more underwhelming then I hoped it would be... that being said, I’ve nevr had a quad that wouldn’t lock up it’s front tires if have the lever a full squeeze.
Hi there, maybe somebody can help here. I am looking to buy the strut (stopper) lever attached to the brake pad? I think it is sold with the self adjust lever but cant find nothing
Anyone have front brake drums for my 1995? Looking to do a full restoration on my Grandpas machine. He passed away and I was able to buy his king quad from the person who bought it from my Grandpa in 2001.
That is great to hear. I unfortunately don’t have any front drums. Makes me happy to hear you are restoring your grandfathers ATV. I’m like that too. Will keep an eye out. Josh
Have it all done up looking and running mint. Added my grandpas old eagle plow to it off his 2002 Polaris. Also a xbull cheap 3000lb winch. Heated hand grips, kolpin trunk, and my kolpin gun boot. Love this thing. I also kept the original dent in the front rack that I did to it when I was 16. My little cousin still has the scar above his eye from me hitting a tree on the creek bed.
Watch my top end rebuild video. You will see how to take it apart. If you go to the trouble of valve seals it is only 4 more nuts and your cylinder is off. Change the piston well you are in there.
Thank you so much for posting these videos. I just bought a 1999 suzuki king quad 300. It needs a lot of work and I’ll be watching all your videos:).
Awesome video. I just was given a 97 by my father in law which was used solely to haul deer out of the Maryland eastern shore swamps from 20 years. The front brake assemblies are solid rust. Being able to get those cylinders at that cost is a huge saver.
replaced my cylinders with your recommended parts on my 2000 king quad. Did both fronts for 24 bucks. THANKS!!!
My opinion the toughest four wheeler ever made. Suzuki was the first one to come up with the diff lock.
Mine too!
Suzuki was the first 4wd also.
Yeas this machine was ahead of its time. Honda Was the first with 4x4, but suzuki countered with Diff lock, 3 gear ranges and independent front and rear suspension a year later.
Just started the rear brake on my 94 Quadrunner. It's been non functional for 19 years. Was able to free up everything and remove the shoes. The brake cam required a pry bar to pop it out, it was frozen (rusted) in place. Got everything cleaned and lubricated and just waiting on my pads from Amazon. Piece of cake!
BTW, thanks for tip, I'll be getting my cylinder tomorrow for my fronts. Have to redo everything up front too 😁
Been using the gearing to stop, can't wait to have brakes again and do more trail riding. 25 years old and runs like a beast!!
You are the king of the 300 King Quads. I gave $400 for a '97 from my uncle, and though it's sat for 3 years, it really just needs the fuel pump and a carb rebuild. I'll be relying heavily on your vids as I start going through it. I miss my Honda 300 and 350 Rancher, but they didn't have 15 gears and diff lock ;)
Thanks Mason. I hope my videos help.
Thanks for getting back . I rebuilt the carb with the help of your video and replaced the fuel cock and fuel pump as well as the fuel lines . my concern is the now contaminated crankcase . I've obviously drained the old oil , gas and water and will flush with a couple oil changes . I'm hoping that the clutches will be ok . That mess of fluids was in there for quite a while .
I would think with even one oil change you will be safe.
Found the wheel cylinders on Ebay for a WOOZER of a price. Mega Thanks for this info
Let me guess, 6$? No problem steve. Happy breaking
I used the same wheel cylinders you recommended, and the brake job. After finishing, when applying the front brakes, I noticed the shoes move, but just a very small amount. Mine is a quadrunner 250. Should the shoes move more than a 1/4 inch after the brake job and bleeding? Thank you for the excellent videos and the parts recommendations. Great job.
Perfect timing, was planning on doing the brakes in the morning. You’ve really made getting my quad running again much easier
Mine are.locked up and fluid looks narly like beginning of video.
The Dorman W37850 wheel cylinders that you recommend have a 0.625 inch bore rather than a 0.5 inch bore as per the manual.
I think this would increase the piston area by 25:16 or over 1.5 times which means the brake lever tip would need to move around an inch and a half to get the same piston travel as 1 inch movement of the lever tip with a half inch piston. Has this been seen as a problem for anyone? It is not just the bleeder that is different to the Suzuki OEM.
I had not looked into it that close. I have done 2 ATVs like this. Very little travel on the brake lever and you are stopped. No issues and it feels the same as the factory.
@@Schneids15 Thanks for the quick response. The larger piston will require less lever pressure but more movement. Knowing that you think it feels similar to factory gives me more confidence to go ahead and order a pair. Thanks and a great channel. I have made a few Quad Runner videos on my channel fixing the frame etc. Cheers, John
@@bms250ford did you order some ?
@@stephaniekane7276 Yes and they are fine.
@@stephaniekane7276 Yes and they are fine.
I have the identical machine, and I'm in the middle of a front brake job. This was very helpful!
I'm repairing a brake issue on an 89 quadrunner 4wd, this video has been a great help. I know it's been 3 years+ since posting but if you could show a link to the replacement wheel cylinder you purchased I'd appreciate it. The one I bought on amazon is slightly too large and is blocking the brake drum, very annoying. Thanks again for the video!
Dorman w37850
Thanks for the cylinder swap tip.
No problem. Like i said. Identical cylinder just the automotive bleeder is bigger. Josh
Some people take the wheel hub off to make access to the brake parts easier. Not needed but it helps.
Thank you for taking time to make these videos they help a lot
Thank you for the tip on the Dorman wheel cylinder. I replaced mine. good fit!
Super helpful video. Dang near set me back five years of church trying to get the drum back on. lol I kept thinking the pads were not centered and didn't look at the mechanical stuff and simply using my noodle. Revisited the video and saw the magical latch adjustment. BTW what is the white plastic unconnected electrical female connector served by one green and one orange wire in the right side wheel well? I didn't see any male counterpart. thx
Can you use geo metro hardware also? Mine is missing everything behind brake drum besides wheel cylinders and need to find a adjuster for them even if it's not a self adjust
Hey Sean. I don’t believe the hardware is the same. There would be one way to find out if you could look at a parts store visually and measure…
Keep up the great videos. You instructions really gave me the confidence to be able to get in there and start doing work myself instead of being beat over the head by the shop in my area. Case in point when I got my 98’ 300 back in the beginning of March the left front was locking up real bad. I know nothing about brakes or quads for that matter so I bring it to the shop. They had the machine for 4 weeks said the issue were after market brake shoes, and that they had to do some grinding to make the drum fit back on. Low an behold the wheel locked up while I was riding and almost threw me off. I start researching reading blogs and watching your videos I got the nerve to check the brake cylinders. I swapped them from one side to the other before ordering new ones and sure enough the problem moved with the cylinders. Looks like the pistons won’t close all the way when you release the brake lever. I also noticed they put the drums back on without dust seals.... I got all the parts in this morning. cylinders are in already, and fit like a glove. Gonna bleed them some time this week and install the dust seals. Let me ask, how the hell do I put the dust seal on? Will it just fit over the edge of the drum? Sorry to be so long winded, and really appreciate your know how.
Hey Anyhony, thanks for the kind words. Glad i could help. The dust shield should slide on. I have never tore mine off to answer that for sure but i imagine they just slip in like a weather stripping.
Schneids15 Thanks for the fast reply. Mine should arrive today. I reply to this comment when I get them on. Maybe it will help someone else with the same question going forward.
Best,
AA
Also..why undo the drive flange nut then work round it for whole job? it just pulls off.
Agreed you can just pull out the hub which gives you a lot more room to work.
This is great. Question. I have a 94 Suzuki ltf 250 with the similar set up. Front breaks sticking so took apart. To my surprise, mint condition in there as the quad has never been in mud or even water believe it or not. I took off the hub, and squeezed the brake lever. The wheel cylinder seems to be leaking as it dripped fluid from it. I guess I will have to order those and replace, but is it normal that now I can’t put the drum back on as the brakes now are too wide apart? Sorry for the dumb question but I’ve never done any work like this before.
What is the part number for the brake shoes / pads. Thanks
Thanks Josh. I followed your info and replaced the brakes and cylinders on the front and the front now works great. But the rear still seems to be stuck in gear and can't get it in neutral to try and start. Thanks.
Thanks for your videos. They're helping a lot. Any suggestions for getting the front brake drum(s) off, when the brakes are frozen? Removed top of reservoir, to remove pressure, front wheels still won't move. Tried prying the drum for quite a while. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hey Ken. Only thing i would try is to unbolt the wheel cylinder and brake line from it and see if that helps. Otherwise it is just a miserable battle to try and get off.
Hi Ken. I guess you got them off? Any tips, or is it just a constant slog?
Superb Brother! Got a customers 88 Quadrunner that Im about to do, and just wanted to see what Im about to get into...The cylinder tip from NAPA is Gold!!! TY for it
Love your videos great wealth of knowledge you did however forget to reuse gaskets off of Old wheel cylinders on new wheel cylinders. Water is going to flow right in. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks Anthony! Yeah i never put them back on. They were molded and i couldn’t get them to fit i remember. It is so hard to not have water flow in them even with seals. So i figured i’d leave them out. Been a few years and no issues👍🏻
Can you change the cylinders without changing the pads? My pads are fine and I would rather not remove them. Thanks much
For sure.
Great Video! Same setup on my old '87 LT-4WD Quadrunner.
I rebuilt my front breaks, but my break lever pulls about 2/3 in before it is firm. There are no bubbles in the lines or cylinders (that I can tell). Any thoughts? I bled and rebled about 20 times and couldn't get any better. Could it by my self adjuster?
OK---so I pulled off the drive flange nut and pulled out the drive flange before I watched the video--now I know why you said to not remove the flange....there is a collar inside that needs to stay centered in place, to allow the flange sleeve to be reinserted back....is that collar normally loose, or another issue?
I'm wondering if I can pack some fresh grease back inside and it will hold that collar centered again, or do you have another thought?
Are there other pieces inside I should remove or service, as long as I've gone this far?
Live and learn, right?
Thanks for the great tips--and demo.
Awesome vid one side of my cylinder is siezed on my 1988 Quadrunner 250 4x4, how did you figure out that the geo metro part was the same!!??
I did some research online and somebody already had figured that out👍🏻 whoever it was, thankyou!
Great video! Going to do this today, just coming back for a refresher.
Got new cylinders delivered. Ebay 14 $ a piece. Thanks so much for brake cylinder part #. Would of never of replaced at 200$, but for 30$, I'll fo it. Brake pads are like new. Hoping I can just remove top spring and install cylinder. Also going to rebuild master cylinder at same time. Thanks for posting! 1994 300 king quad.
Got these cylinders replaced. Went smooth thanks to video.
The match was perfect like you said!
Great Scott! Thanks for letting me know. Glad it went smooth!
Great videos! I have the same bike and have to replace the CV shaft boots. Do you have any videos on doing that?
Hello i watch alot of your videos idk how quick you respond..i have a 97 king quad 300 and cant seem to bleed the brakes ..i watched you video on bleeding but seems maybe my master cylinder might not be pumping and answers..i also have a 95 king quad and i switched master cylinders and sane issue???
Just replaced my front wheel cylinders. For those in Australia, dealership price is $129 each cylinder. Exact same wheel cylinders I purchased is from a Suzuki Swift car at $20 each from a local brake business.
The ATV cylinders have a seal on the back which should be swapped over..if possible..if not sealer should be used..
I did slide that in behind the scenes but forgot to mention it in the video. The seal fits the new wheel cylinder fine also. Thanks for the reminder. Good for everyone to learn off. Josh
hi josh .i have a 1999 300 king quad , rear brake cable is not working . there are two bolts on the rear of the rear brake housing that hold a metal piece that the cable runs beside and is not attached to it . the whole length of the cable just moves back and forth with the brake pedal and hand brake being applied . can not make adjust the cable at the brake pedal the cable appears to be too long and it is at the top of the adjustment . something is missing to secure the cable i believe . your thoughts
Hey pal love your videos , they help a lot , curious on the little engine coolant rad. Do you have any videos on how to flush out or on rad replacement .? I have a 1993 Suzuki quad runner 250.
Hey! Thank you. No i don’t sorry. If it was me i would pull off both hoses and flush diesel through the rad then along with clean motor oil and re install.
What was the last year that the Suzuki King quad had super low range?
I’m not sure. I thought they all had it! Whatever models were a 300cc.0
Hey, old but great video. I'm wondering taking off that hub would probably make the job easier no?
Hey Mark for sure you could do that. For what it takes it would probably be easier. I just however do stuff taking the smallest amount of stuff apart possible. Like you say would be way easier with the hub off i agree.
@@Schneids15 how hard is it to take hub off?
I have a front brake lever/master cylinder that the hand lever will not move. This 1994 quadrunner 250 has been sitting a few years. Does this indicate the brake shoes are frozen or your thoughts? Thanks.
Great video - how do you tell if the old pads (original) were asbestos? Curious how cautious I should be.
I really don’t know😐 I think that modern pads even still have a little asbestos in them to be truthful.
Looking forward to the rear wheel brake job. Videos are very informative.
I find my front brakes lock up and stay seized until it's breaks loose any ideas on that? Thanks
Those axel nuts have a torque spec?? Also does that hold down also go over that adjuster that is held in with the circlip?
Will the wheel cylinders for the geo fit on my 91 quad runner 250 also?
I believe so yes.
Great video. Followed you suggestion, purchased and installed two. Perfect! Now I have a question. Have you replaced a front CV shaft and if so any chance there's a video (so far yours have been the best). Been on the hunt a replacement shaft for my '98 King Quad 300 and very hard to find. may have a lead on a TrakMotive that is a fit but other options would be appreciated from a fellow Canuck.
Hello Schneids15,
I noticed you did not change the DUST SEAL on the DRUM BRAKE 54124-39D10 when you changed the front brake. I'm working on my 1999 King Quad and the seal is the original. It's surprisingly in good shape. Do you suggest changing it? Any suggestions?
Thx, Erik
have a 2000 LT-F300F will this cylinder work for my year?
Hey Fred. Sorry i’m not sure on the newer ones i’m 99% sure it will.
@@Schneids15 I guess I'll let you know lol
Can you do valve adjustment some time?
I have a king quad and I took it off by prying on the out side and tapping it took a lot of hard tapping to
Good money-saving advice here. Tks
Thanks Warren.
@@Schneids15 I've recently purchased a '98 KQ 300 in disrepair so I've found your videos quite useful. Except for a recently fried regulator the thing runs like a top now. I can see how they're considered a 'value fine' now, especially with that ultra-low gear.
Any idea where I can get those adjusters to save money? My local shop says a 1993 model im working on doesn't have them,in which they have to have them to work.
Great videos . I've been going through my 97 king quad that has been sitting for a few years.Do you have anything on the problem with fuel in the crankcase ?
Will either be a bad needle and seat in the carburetor of a fuel pump sending gas through a vacuum line.
Hi, modified my front brakes to disk brakes.
I have the same quad (for my proposal, best quad ever made), the week point is this front brakes, they don't like water or mud...
This is true. If the seals are okay i find they are alright. I try to go around mud if i can. Lol
I’m doing this next on my quadrunner,I did my rear brakes yesterday
Would you know if they make a Disc brake conversion kit for Your model?
Hey Schneids I have a 1993 Suzuki 300 King Quad 4x4 and I have enjoyed watching your videos on repairs for them. I recently had issues with the front brakes so I rebuilt the master cylinder and tried to bleed the brakes all to no avail. It was a gooy mess so since it wouldn't bleed i took each line off all the way to the wheel cylinders blew them out and reinstalled them and still they wouldn't bleed. then I rebuilt the wheel cylinders and reinstalled them and I still can't get the system to bleed out. What do you think I'm doing wrong or need to do to bleed the brakes?
They are very straight forward to bleed so i can’t see you messed that up. I would start with seeing if your master cylinder is pushing liquid good then try new wheel cylinders.
ok I took the master cylinder cable off and placed my thumb over the hole and the master cylinder will push my thumb away when it bleeds but after I connect the cable back up nothing. I also tied the handle back(opened) and allowed the fluid to drain down and after 2 days it finally got a little fluid to come out at the end before the splitter in line. I even took the bottom lines off at the splitter and forced fluid in the lines all the way to the wheel cylinder and I still ccan't get them to bleed
sorry and I rebuilt the wheel cylinders as well
Hey bro sick i love the detail.
Im in sault ste marie i have a 93
I need to do my inner rear u jointsthat go into the back chaincase can you do a video on that. And any idea why my 93 300 sais quadrunner but the vin sais the is a king?
Why would the axle nut not be metric like the rest?
Do the self adjusters work as designed?
Yes they seem to work well. I have never had an issue with my brakes since installed.
Any tips for getting the air of out the lines? I let my reservoir go empty while I was doing my brakes - apparently I didn't pay enough attention to your video. :)
Great video! Thank you very much from Argentina! I have a '98 kq300
Great video, I have this same 97 King Quad.
Whats the differences between the kingquad and the quadrunner?
Not 100% sure. I know drive shafts, engine size. King quads have 5 bolt rear rims.
@@Schneids15 okey. I am probably gonna buy a quadrunner next week
Can't wait to renew my front brakes. It will be the last time it needs to be done till 2040.
great video thanks very help full !
Excellent video as always. Do you plan on doing a video on replacing the rear axle u-joints?
Super helpful man, thank you
Great video. You pay attention to explaining the procedure very well. Many tutorials overlook those key details. I have a shop manual that explains a lot but a picture is worth a thousand words. Your videos really help to get me over the finish line! Thanks
Thanks John. I appreciate the comment😁
Any idea if this is the same for a 93 ltf250?
Not 100% sure but i would think it would be yes
great video thx. i have a 1996 suzuki quadrunner and the brakes are similar.
How do you remove the back plate ?
Awsome! Thank you 😀
Hey man! Just did my front brakes. However, there isn’t much stopping power for them. Hand lever is firm and everything has been bled but not brakes don’t lock up or grab. Is there a way to adjust them?
Sorry to keep bugging you but appreciate the help. Thanks!
They should adjust out themselves no problem. Have to think on that one. I have never had an issue like that.
Yeah, i can’t figure it out. They work, just not much stopping power. Please let me know if you think of anything, and as always, thanks for an excellent video!
@@intheflesh2525 a new cylinder might help. Mine was kind of weak and clogged. You can get one on Amazon if you search King quad.
Hey Tim! Thanks for the advice, I actually replaced them both. The brakes didn’t work when I bought the quad so maybe the braking force is just more underwhelming then I hoped it would be... that being said, I’ve nevr had a quad that wouldn’t lock up it’s front tires if have the lever a full squeeze.
Tom* sorry man!
Hi there, maybe somebody can help here. I am looking to buy the strut (stopper) lever attached to the brake pad? I think it is sold with the self adjust lever but cant find nothing
Partzilla,I have to order and new adjuster for mine ,the arm runs about $50 tho,insane but if you need it ,you need it,
Anyone have front brake drums for my 1995? Looking to do a full restoration on my Grandpas machine. He passed away and I was able to buy his king quad from the person who bought it from my Grandpa in 2001.
That is great to hear. I unfortunately don’t have any front drums. Makes me happy to hear you are restoring your grandfathers ATV. I’m like that too. Will keep an eye out. Josh
Have it all done up looking and running mint. Added my grandpas old eagle plow to it off his 2002 Polaris. Also a xbull cheap 3000lb winch. Heated hand grips, kolpin trunk, and my kolpin gun boot. Love this thing. I also kept the original dent in the front rack that I did to it when I was 16. My little cousin still has the scar above his eye from me hitting a tree on the creek bed.
I need to put vaule seals in my 95 but I don't know really where to start lol
Watch my top end rebuild video. You will see how to take it apart. If you go to the trouble of valve seals it is only 4 more nuts and your cylinder is off. Change the piston well you are in there.
What about asbestos?
What is the part number on the brake shoes
I wander if they match up the some sort of vehicle to be cheaper also
Awesome video, thanks!
Why not just pull the hub for easier access instead of playing around it?
Thank you!
I have to do this to mine,I thought my wheeler cylinders were good but they are seized too ,so to Napa I go
Yes you will be fine. They work excellent.
@@Schneids15 are you in the suzuki quadrunner 250 and king quad 300 page on Facebook?
No i’m not actually.
@@Schneids15 oh you should join, it’s a good group, check it out
Pull the spindle