I chased this light issue for a month. I was able to catch the voltage jump today. You described the symptoms perfect. Thank you for the video it was very helpful.
Thanks for the video! We were able to make it 196,000 miles on our original alternator. Only symptom was the battery light as mentioned. TIP: We just used a 3/8' drive socket tip on a breaker bar on the driver side on the engine front to loosen belt. As you pull bar to passenger side you can reach your hand down (it is snug) and pop the belt off just the alternator.
@@derekpyper6145 a couple hours? It was harder getting the old one off than the new one on, but not a big deal. Just strange to me at least to replace an alternator from underneath as opposed to from above.
@@derekpyper6145 I did it on my back. It is a challenge. But I had the replacement in hand and another vehicle if I got over my head and needed a break, so I was fortunate. I finally got the old one off and took a breather before attempting the install. Holding it up while starting the first bolt was a challenge, but once I got one started, the other two went right in.
Thank you for the vid. Easier job in your case. I have a 2.7 TDV6 an the alternator is above the dynamic response pump. You cannot take the bolts of, without removing the pump. The DRS is also the reason that the alternator has a different electric plug in connector than yours, they dont fit. I don´t know why. Maybe helpful for other owners.
I couldnt rotate the alternator to undo the nut on the main power cable so manage to do it from the top easy enough. Just having a break for 5mins............struggling to wiggle the alternator out. There looks to be less room on our L322 SC than on yours in the video
Is there any chance the diode you mentioned early in the video can be corrected, or is the whole alternator trashed once the diode goes out? Just wondering if I'm sending back a "core" that is really a perfectly fine alternator with just a bad diode, and if i can fix that rather than buying a whole new part for one bad component. Thank you.
took the headlight & coolant reservoir out & I had a lot more room. Wobbly socket is needed for that last bolt underneath the alternator. The new alternator didn’t come with a cutout for the positive cable to sit flush so I just bent one end of it while the other end slid right in. Took me about an hour & a half 🙏
hi so i changed my alternator recently and the very next day i get code P0563 (system voltage high). Radio stopped working, transmission fault with limited traction and gears. I thought the battery was the issue i changed it and hours later still having the same problem. Please help..
When I turn my disco 2 on after its already been started and cooled down this high pitched sound just rings out. It stays on for about 2 minutes before shutting off. You can hear it from a crossed a parking lot.
What is the quality of the replacement alternator you are using? If they were rebuilt alternators, a lot of times they will not last very long as rebuild quality is often suspect.
Had a bad alternator. No gauge lights for battery, just a limp mode home and dead battery. Old alt was 0 new alt 14.4. Replaced it. Got a new battery also. Hooked it all up and battery light is on the dash. Drove it for 15 minutes, ran great but had the battery light on. Came home parked it, turned it off, then back on and the thing was dead. 2008 Range Rover sport, 4.4. I’m beside myself. Just paid this thing off! I feel the key to the fix lies in the battery warning all the sudden working. Battery fuse on positive is fine. Can’t think of what would draw a battery to be dead in 15 minutes.
Gotta be more observant if you're going to be keeping these vehicles at their current age. I've had 3 fail on me now, and noticed it each time (different failure modes as well.) This last one I had to hook up a backup battery inside the car and drive it on battery power while monitoring the voltage - never went below 12.4 after a 40 minute drive home (had to wait 2 days for the new alternator.) The battery light doesn't mean you need a new battery by the way, it's always going to be a charging fault. I always keep a multi meter in the car with me at all times. Depending on the failure mode of the alternator, it can absolutely destroy a battery. I think the last two failures have involved me needing a new battery - I forget about the first failure, but this time the other day, the battery was 6 years old, so that's completely understandable (and I needed to jump it a couple times in the week prior.) The time before this, the alternator voltage regulator failed CLOSED and sent full voltage into the car based on RPM. Anything above 1,700RPM and everything in the vehicle would shut off - I checked later and realized it was getting up to almost 20v! When the original failed, I actually noticed the smell in traffic, and when I turned up the radio I got a "low power mode" even though the battery light wasn't on. I believe that message is based on the load distribution system which is more current-based than voltage-based, so I knew something was wrong - sure enough, when I got home, it wasn't charging. This last time, I started the car, came back 2 min later and my headlights were off, interior electronics were off, car was still running. Shut it off, checked battery voltage, and it was at 8v (same battery that just started it!) That's when I swapped it with another battery I had, used jumpers to run a second in parallel, and went to work monitoring the voltage. Oddly, after 25 minutes, the alternator kicked on again and charged perfectly at 13.9v. Same thing this morning, 25 minutes later, kicked back on. Have a new alternator here though, so I'll be changing it out after work. Anyways - cars can be weird, certain stuff will fail in unusual ways. I will admit, the stuff I've experienced above is probably on the weirder side. 4th rover, second 4.4 though.
Doug. Fantastic video!! But, I had ZERO luck starting the bolts AFTER installing the main electrical connection. It was not letting >me< line up the alternator to run the bolts. I installed the main after I had all 3 bolts started. This worked for me cuz Doug...I ain't got your skills :)
Absolutely SPOT ON! Finally installed an alternator yesterday after watching this and I am NOT a mechanic. Flawless. Great video. Thanks!!!
What engine size was your range rover?
I don’t even own a Rover but I accidentally tapped the vid and found it interesting. Thanks for a quality video.
I chased this light issue for a month. I was able to catch the voltage jump today. You described the symptoms perfect. Thank you for the video it was very helpful.
Thanks for the video! We were able to make it 196,000 miles on our original alternator. Only symptom was the battery light as mentioned.
TIP: We just used a 3/8' drive socket tip on a breaker bar on the driver side on the engine front to loosen belt. As you pull bar to passenger side you can reach your hand down (it is snug) and pop the belt off just the alternator.
A really clear and easy to follow video, thanks for uploading!
Excellent presentation love it
I used a breaker bar with a 3/8 adapter to loosen the belt. No need for special tool on 08 lr3
210,000 miles and just over 14yrs from this alternator on my daughter’s 2008 rrs. Often times you get what you pay for. 👍
How long did it take?
@@derekpyper6145 a couple hours? It was harder getting the old one off than the new one on, but not a big deal. Just strange to me at least to replace an alternator from underneath as opposed to from above.
@@tmcorey1 yeah, I'm no mechanic but seems straightforward. I just don't have a way to lift the damn thing.
@@tmcorey1 and it seems like doing this laying on my back from underneath would be quite the challenge. lol.
@@derekpyper6145 I did it on my back. It is a challenge. But I had the replacement in hand and another vehicle if I got over my head and needed a break, so I was fortunate. I finally got the old one off and took a breather before attempting the install. Holding it up while starting the first bolt was a challenge, but once I got one started, the other two went right in.
Are posible to do same job on l322 rover with same engine.?
Any videos on a Starter replacement and the Starter relay location?
Do you have a video of alternator replacement on a 2018 RR Sport?
So to free up the tensioner you just put a 3/8" ratchet square in the top hole of the tensioner and lever it round?
Thank you for the vid. Easier job in your case. I have a 2.7 TDV6 an the alternator is above the dynamic response pump. You cannot take the bolts of, without removing the pump. The DRS is also the reason that the alternator has a different electric plug in connector than yours, they dont fit. I don´t know why. Maybe helpful for other owners.
Hi, have you got a video on replacing a ACE pump
I couldnt rotate the alternator to undo the nut on the main power cable so manage to do it from the top easy enough. Just having a break for 5mins............struggling to wiggle the alternator out. There looks to be less room on our L322 SC than on yours in the video
Is the process the same if my Range Rover is non supercharged?
Is there any chance the diode you mentioned early in the video can be corrected, or is the whole alternator trashed once the diode goes out? Just wondering if I'm sending back a "core" that is really a perfectly fine alternator with just a bad diode, and if i can fix that rather than buying a whole new part for one bad component. Thank you.
Hi Matthew, once the diode pack goes the alternator is pretty well cooked.
took the headlight & coolant reservoir out & I had a lot more room. Wobbly socket is needed for that last bolt underneath the alternator. The new alternator didn’t come with a cutout for the positive cable to sit flush so I just bent one end of it while the other end slid right in. Took me about an hour & a half 🙏
That's not even on the same side of the car as the alternator..... wth? Also basically doubles the work.
hi so i changed my alternator recently and the very next day i get code P0563 (system voltage high). Radio stopped working, transmission fault with limited traction and gears. I thought the battery was the issue i changed it and hours later still having the same problem. Please help..
Would this be the same on a RRS 3.6TDV8? abiut to do mine today
Hi guys spot on video, I'm going to put an alternator on my car this wknd, would this be the same for a 09 3.6 tdv8 sport
Thanks
How did it go? I have a 3.6 tdv8 aswel and im thinking to do the same
When I turn my disco 2 on after its already been started and cooled down this high pitched sound just rings out. It stays on for about 2 minutes before shutting off. You can hear it from a crossed a parking lot.
This as been a life saver!! No lie love this channel. I have and 2007 Range Rover sport supercharged.
Please help replaced my alternator two times but both overcharging! To 18v wht can it be
Crappy chinese replacements. This happened to me once, not immediately though. Sorry this is 4yr too late but might help someone else.
My battery light comes on the dash, I have changed my Autanator it still comes on and charging half
I’ve replaced my alternator 3 times on my 06 super charged 4.2.
My question is why does it keep failing?
Any thoughts?
What is the quality of the replacement alternator you are using? If they were rebuilt alternators, a lot of times they will not last very long as rebuild quality is often suspect.
do you have this for v6 lr3 alternator is in a nother location
Had a bad alternator. No gauge lights for battery, just a limp mode home and dead battery. Old alt was 0 new alt 14.4. Replaced it. Got a new battery also. Hooked it all up and battery light is on the dash. Drove it for 15 minutes, ran great but had the battery light on. Came home parked it, turned it off, then back on and the thing was dead. 2008 Range Rover sport, 4.4. I’m beside myself. Just paid this thing off! I feel the key to the fix lies in the battery warning all the sudden working. Battery fuse on positive is fine. Can’t think of what would draw a battery to be dead in 15 minutes.
Gotta be more observant if you're going to be keeping these vehicles at their current age. I've had 3 fail on me now, and noticed it each time (different failure modes as well.) This last one I had to hook up a backup battery inside the car and drive it on battery power while monitoring the voltage - never went below 12.4 after a 40 minute drive home (had to wait 2 days for the new alternator.) The battery light doesn't mean you need a new battery by the way, it's always going to be a charging fault. I always keep a multi meter in the car with me at all times.
Depending on the failure mode of the alternator, it can absolutely destroy a battery. I think the last two failures have involved me needing a new battery - I forget about the first failure, but this time the other day, the battery was 6 years old, so that's completely understandable (and I needed to jump it a couple times in the week prior.)
The time before this, the alternator voltage regulator failed CLOSED and sent full voltage into the car based on RPM. Anything above 1,700RPM and everything in the vehicle would shut off - I checked later and realized it was getting up to almost 20v! When the original failed, I actually noticed the smell in traffic, and when I turned up the radio I got a "low power mode" even though the battery light wasn't on. I believe that message is based on the load distribution system which is more current-based than voltage-based, so I knew something was wrong - sure enough, when I got home, it wasn't charging.
This last time, I started the car, came back 2 min later and my headlights were off, interior electronics were off, car was still running. Shut it off, checked battery voltage, and it was at 8v (same battery that just started it!) That's when I swapped it with another battery I had, used jumpers to run a second in parallel, and went to work monitoring the voltage. Oddly, after 25 minutes, the alternator kicked on again and charged perfectly at 13.9v. Same thing this morning, 25 minutes later, kicked back on. Have a new alternator here though, so I'll be changing it out after work.
Anyways - cars can be weird, certain stuff will fail in unusual ways. I will admit, the stuff I've experienced above is probably on the weirder side. 4th rover, second 4.4 though.
I had to put mine in off road to get to it. It wasn’t that hard of job. Just follow steps and take your time
I assume 35lb on alternator retaining bolts…
265,xxx Miles.... Thanks for the Video
i tought it was Antonio Banderas for a second. jeje
Didn’t work for me, the cast housing where the 3/8 drive was supposed to “fit” just blew out all the soft cast metal. Useless now probably
Doug. Fantastic video!! But, I had ZERO luck starting the bolts AFTER installing the main electrical connection. It was not letting >me< line up the alternator to run the bolts. I installed the main after I had all 3 bolts started. This worked for me cuz Doug...I ain't got your skills :)
Pliers and air tools... 😐