Mike, others have commented the same but you should leave the dryer running so it maintains dew point and stays cold. What compressor are you running? If it is tank mounted, how often do you drain the tank? About 80% of the water produced will be removed in the tank. A zero loss automatic drain will greatly help the system. It will dump the water as it accumulates but won’t waste any air. 34 years selling servicing and designing compressed air systems. Keep the good videos coming!
In addition here, you mentioned that you had a secondary air receiver. If you plumb that into the system the right way, it also acts as a precipitator, removing even more moisture before it gets to the dryer. In saying that, my current workshop system has a rotary screw compressor feeding directly through the drier, then to the receiver (tank). From there it feeds a 1" main around both buildings with 1/2" droppers to the work stations. One building is panel/paint, the other is mechanical so the only oilers in the system are tool or machine mounted where required.
Nice upgrade, fun vid.! I operated a H.F. air drier (in an automotive research group) that fed filtered & dry air to a Constant Volume Combustion Chamber (C.V.C.C.), with 2" thick glass windows for hi-speed photography of combustion flame front studies & or fuel injection spray patterns. The instructions stated (I know, I know, but I was paid to read, comprehend, understand & follow instructions!😇) to turn on the drier about 10 min. Before introducing comp. air into the drier. The gauge needed to point to a certain color, indicating the refrigerant section reached operating cold temp. Reason: Uncooled air would carry water vapor right thru the warm drier. In a precise research environment water contaminates the combustion air, altering combustion properties & exhaust gas analysis, i.e. junk data! In the real world the effect is tiny, especially if air demand is zero for the 1st. 10 min after opening the air valve. Ideally an air system is equipped with 4 stages of moisture removal designed into it. #1) A CFM flow matched Air to Air aftercooler directly out of the comp. pump lowers 300 F deg. air to room temp., then into a triple metal pipe up & down arrangement, valves at bottom of each to drain water. #2)Next into a water trap/filter just BEFORE entering the tank. At this point the majority of water is removed before the tank & many tanks will have NO water to drain out, greatly extending tank life by decades! #3) Add a fine particle filter & Now the Drier AFTER the tank won't have to work as hard, helping it produce even drier air since it is not overwhelmed with such wet air. #4) At this point air may be dry enough for air tools & a sand blaster, & general shop needs, but plasma cutters, & paint systems may need the cleanest, driest air possible using a "toilet paper cartridge" coalescing filter &/or desiccant bead drier. This system design makes each section remove lots of moisture initially to help the next section be more efficient & not be overwhelmed. A shout-out to YTer "THE Compressor Guru, Bud Steiner for making Air System design wisdom & DIY compressor repair knowledge (& parts) available to the world! Paul from S. Central Tx.
Mike, i have set up a lot of air systems. The main line that you just removed from the shop line and put a 90 on up to the dryer should be a tee with a line running down and a ball valve on the bottom. You are going to collect a lot of water before your dryer in that line as the air cools. The drop would allow it to collect and the valve allows you to drain it periodically. This will also help you dryer out by removing a lot of water from the air before it gets there.
Would you agree with my comment here that the dryer should be placed between the compressor and the storage tank to avoid that the air has time to cool down in the tank?
@@RubenKelevra No I wouldn't. The time the air is in the tank allows it to cool and shed a huge amount of water. This will remove the majority of the water. The tank is or should be equipped with a drain. The air dryer would not be able to sufficiently. There are air coolers, not dryers, that can be installed between the compressor and tank, but their primary duty is to cool the air to help the water separate in the tank more efficiently. Mike has installed this correctly.
@@patrickcolahan7499 interesting. I was under the impression that the CFM printed on the air dryer is what it's able to cope with as a continuous flow. I mean what's the point then to install a dryer in the first place? The air won't cool down any further until it reaches the exhaust port of the tool, so there won't be any additional condensation after it cooled to room temperature, right? 🤔
@@RubenKelevra Ruben, The dryer works by cooling the air down like a refrigerator which causes the water droplets in the air to condense and separate from the air. The CFM rating is based on an assumed air temp entering the dryer. The air straight from the compressor is the hottest which would very difficult for the dryer to cool sufficiently to remove the moisture.
@@patrickcolahan7499 hm okay, but isn't the moisture forming in the tank an issue, as the water droplets sucked away by the air stream from the walls will travel through the dryer with no resistance, as it's not water vapour? 🤔
Love your video. Correct terminology is condensate is a noun, a thing, a product of the action condensation. Condensation being the action (verb) of the water vapor in the air changing state to water(condensate). You were correct and Your friend was incorrect in your opening description of what/how the refrigerated air drier works. Keep the videos coming.
One thing I leaned long time ago was that the horizontal mains should not be dead level. Also droppers should be interspersed along the run with cocks at the very end to facilitate draining the water.
2 things Mike one not sure .. the dryer it could move on the shelf ??? maybe put a block of wood around the edge so it does not walk off the shelf .. # 2 big one make sure you mark your air hose that has no oil ,, so nobody hooks it on the normal line ,, it would suck to try and paint and spray oil on the paint job ,, or blow dust off your self and spray oil on your body ,, great video ..
Thank you guys for answering so many questions i had about integrating an air dryer! I have watched dozens of videos about removing moisture from compressed air systems. I bought an FS-Curtis air dryer. Although pricey, it's neat, clean, quiet and works without a wall full of copper artwork, fans and mini radiators! Keep on truckin'!
I’ve had my hf air dryer for going on 16 years now with only 1 issue. It has a float valve that is supposed to drain the condansate that it catches. This arrangment tends to clog so I replaced the float valve with an electric timed air solenoid valve that pops off periodically. I alsoo have one on my tank. My dryer has run constantly since I installed it. The timers also run constantly even when the compressor is shut down. When I need oiled air, I have oilers that I can connect with short 10 ft. lines for portable grinders, drills, etc. Works with no issues!😀
We used one of those harbor freight air dryers on our machine shop with 8 haas CNC machines for about 3 years. It actually worked pretty good. Especially for the price. The only thing that was a pain was the capacity of water it would hold. We bought a good timed drain and put it on. Worked decently.
I would leave that drain running into the sink so you can see it is still working. I've had dehumidifiers set up with automatic drains, and when they fail you don't notice.
Mikey… do you you ever notice a change in humidity when you and JWAL get together? As I recall… hot air carries more moisture. I take pride in the plumbing jobs that I do. I planned to replace the 1/2” CPVC main lines under my house with 3/4” PEX. So, I sat down, sketched it all out and figured about 200’ of PEX would do it. I then proceeded to procrastinate the project for a year. In the meantime… my wife decided we needed to add a water softener. That required a revision to my plan… so, I drug it out and sketched out a feeder loop for the mainline. That added 35’. When we met with the water softener technician to discuss the installation…. I made a copy of my plan. To say he was underwhelmed would be an overstatement. He laid the plan down and listened as I explained my reasoning for the loops and jogs. As I did so, he was reaching for the pen in his pocket. Then he said… how about we do this? And then he drew a straight line from the water tank to the water softener. He then put an outlet line over to the hot water tank and the old feeder line…. He cut my 235’ of piping in half! And bonus… it was included in the original quote! Mikey, your plumbing looked great to me… but, the Water Softener Tech proved… I ain’t no expert!!!
Key points. It is mostly the pressure swing, not the temperature swing, that drives the moisture to condense. Treat horizontal runs as if they are flowing water. Always have them run down hill with air flow. Always terminate a horizontal run with a drip leg. Always T off a horizontal run to a point of use (POU) by facing the T fitting up and doing a 180 degree to a vertical drop. This keeps condensate flowing along the bottom of the horizontal run and not into the POU. Every vertical run needs a drip leg. Input to the oiler is no exception. Keep the oiler close to the process. Oil mist will drop out of the air and collect as liquid in the pipe or hose. This results in irregular oiling and a lot of extra oil discharge at your tool. Segregate your hoses. Hoses for oiled tools will contaminate your clean processes. I use Trueflate Automotive quick disconnects where I have oiled air, Industrial interchange for clean air.
Cool.. Love to see people admit they procrastinate.. I do it a lot myself, when it is something that will be boring and not fun to do.. That being said, I love how ordered your video's are.. LOL.. Also know.. It is not easy to manage several businesses, family life, doing youtube video's, editing same video's & uploading them in a timely well thought out order... Also Murphy's law pop's it's head up when you least suspect it.. Thank you for making the time to share parts of your life with us. I for one very much love watching..
Bodge it and leg it Inc is back in the shop lol nice to see Jason sir works alot is in an video and spaghetti junction is worse than that pipe work lol.
i liked ur screen saver pic. my dad drank Pepsi all his life(68 yrs) so i grew up drinking Pepsi too. same for Jiff (smooth) peanut butter, and Smucker's jelly too(prefer strawberry).lol
Mr Dirt - wish you well in your latest modification. but - as a maintainer of such equipment I have found that the most cost effective addition i almost always the tallest/ largest receiving / storage tank you can find / fit and inlet and add a timed blow down low and outlet up high. Reduce cycling of the compressor and a lot of water can leave via the blowdown.
Any method of chilling the compressed air below the dew point is a major improvement and the refrigerated dryer is the next step. Congratulations and you will recover the cost in much improved air tool life.
You probably have wired in a switch but have you considered a relay from the compressor switch so the air dryer will run every time the compressor is turned on. That way if someone turns one the compressor without the dryer your lines will not become contaminated with water. Take the human factor out of it. I have always installed a valve and a pipe extension at the lowest part of the system to drain the pipe on very humid days where the dryer can't keep up. As always be good be happy be safe looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and videos. Nice to see Jason, system looks good. Never was sure about pex being used for air, the only inexperienced opinion I’ve had come from watching the build show by Matt Risinger’s TH-cam videos, he did an interesting comparison of plumbing systems with frozen water filled pipe samples, leading me to think the upnor pex seems to be the best, and coincidentally requires the more expensive tools. Glad to see the more common system you used worked just as well for you. Always interesting to see anything about the crane system you have in your shop. My only suggestion I’ve ever had that was appreciated was for a coworker who’s wife was nearly driven nuts by his compressor coming on in the middle of the night. Put a bathroom mechanical heater timer switch next to the garage light switch, whenever he needs air he gives it a twist and has air for a reasonable timed period without worrying about forgetting to turn the compressor off. For your shop I’d probably put a disconnecting relay in your compressor circuit tied to your lighting circuit. Wishing you and your family the best.
Yeah Mr. Workalot a Strain relief goes on a SO cord hanging from the ceiling. DP was right. Just turn the breaker on and off till you get a switch on it so you don't have to climb steps if it is on it's own circuit
Hello Mike, it is Wintertime and you have time in your good assortment Workshop the Machinen to await and new part to install. And too the Work Shop the Air at to improve. You will always have the best. Good Video, and not great Winter weather., 🌬️❄️ Greeting 🇦🇹
Mike, from experience, a lube point should be as close as possible to the point of need, as possible or practical. You don't need to lube all of your air lines. It might take a while to get the oil to the hoist, and won't be as reliable if your lubrication is at point of need, it will decrease the need to run separate air lines. If you put the lubricator at floor level, make sure you have enough CFM to move the oil vertical to the hoist. A work around I did at work was to make a portable filter and lubrication station I could carry around, with about a 10' pigtail to connect the air tools that needed oil. All impacts, and air motors. I used one for an air turbine to clean boiler tubes. Good luck. Thanks for your response a few weeks ago on my basement project.
I love all your videos, very educational, plus fun to watch. I had the same experience with the pvc lines literally exploding in my machine shop. I would recommend replacing them. I was told it’s the oil in the air making them brittle. It took about 7 years for them to burst, and I was fortunate someone didn’t get hurt. Keep up the good work and the awesome videos. I am a gold rush fan too, but I will take yours or let’s dig 18 videos over them any day!
If you add a contact to the air compressor contacted switch. So the dryer works at the same time as the compressor. Looks like you got a great air system now. Be safe working on equipment.
It's amazing the extra mechanisms added to make other working parts more trouble free. And then when you add 'inventors' who connect it all together it makes interesting videos. Fun to watch guys.
A strain relief is the clamp that fits into the hole that is left when a knockout is removed. It holds the wire in place to prevent rubbing, pulling and other forces that might loosen or damage it.
Another great video of you all having fun while doing an upgrade to the shop . Glad that you got the overhead hoist back to working . Looks like they did a great job at the machine shop repairing the valve body on the hoist .
i would have thought you can put the drain from the air dryer into a drum for free distilled water both suitable for topping up car batteries and using in steam irons etc,
We have a Harbor Freight Too close to our house as well. Most of the time its one and done but I get it. I'd buy cheap American crap if I could find it. Thanks for the update, I have fun watching your videos so Thanks!
Hey Mike, have you had a chance to carry any loads with your "" new "" trailer yet ?? ..... If you have, how is it handling the load.... Just wondering..... How about a short video hauling a load ..... Love your video's..... Would love to see the suspension working going down the highway.....
Good vlog DP. MITS was a great addition. As the compressed air get hotter it gets less dense therefore it’s ability to hold water increases. The dryer is just like fridge in that it cools the passing air to a point where at approximately 34 deg F the air is denser and and its ability to hold water decreases and therefore the water drops out of the air in the condenser. 👍🇬🇧👍👍
That's for an open system. In a closed system compressing air at constant volume increases density and obviously pressure. It just needs to cool the air below the dew point temperature which is a function of relative humidity (rh), temperature and pressure. The dew point of 75 deg air at a rh of near 100% and normal atmospheric pressure is slightly under 75 deg. That's how it rains (which is condensation) when it's 90 degrees. The dew point is much higher than 34 deg.
Well,once again a great job done by Mr. Dirt Perfect and one of his highly competent (who's more knowledgeable about the item being installed) sidekicks and of course there's Keystone Cops music during the time lapse period which obviously is fitting given the comic banter taking place 😀😉 Now, back to the show Y'all. The entertainment value is incomprehensiblly (insert fancy word ) outstanding.
nice fix on the control , and nice install on the dryer . do you have a drain line on your air storage tank , and compressor as they should be drained regularly
Mike, my buddy has the same harbor freight dryer in his shop. Has had it for a few years and has been a reliable and very good dryer. Just keep the dust blew out of it.
Mike how often do you drain the tanks ? And do that have automatic drain valves on them ? If you want more life on things down stream of the compressor you need a coalescing filter after the compressor . As you may all ready know when it comes to air bigger is always better . And just leave the air dryer on don't bother turning it off . And put a cheap furnace filter that can change easily on its air intake side so its' insides stay clean that will make it work better .
Nice product install. I like the police and emergency service flag. They plus the American Veterans deserve there respective flags. Keep them all up. I support them all as I am a Vietnam Vet.
Mike I know you have had this system for a long time. Have you ever had the pvc bust under pressure? We originally ran our compressor lines with pvc and after five years we had our main line explode. Changed over to metal pipe after that.
The refrigerant dryer is pretty awesome. I've wanted one for a long time but like you I never seem to get around to doing it. I have the run of the mill desiccant dryer which does alright, but I can't run my big impact on it. Other than that, it does an ok job. Maybe one of these days I'll have to upgrade. Thank God for machine shops. I got a mill and a lathe but in no way could I do a good enough job to machine an air valve like that. Have a good one DP!
Very interesting Mike. I probably would have mounted the lube tank at ground level, running 1 hose down to a split (For paint) and then a new hose back up to the lines above. That way, you down have a nested hose mess in your office/TY area!
FYI an air chiller needs to get to working temp before opening the pressurized air. You do not have a drop before the chiller so when you first turn on the air a lot of water is going to go right through the chiller to your hoist. My advice read the manual to see what the correct operating temp is before turning on the air and install a op of any kind right before the dryer to collect some of the water before the system.
Mike you can only do what you can do when you can do it you got a good Channel enjoy watching you your very informative keep up what you're doing you're doing an excellent job and I love when you build ponds and put in your Wix I just think you need just a little bit bigger sheepsfoot compressor I mean sheepsfoot roller I love what you do the best to you and all your crew
I think you missed to add a check valve before the air passes into the lubrication thingy. If you don't have that and paint the air pressure will drop and the air will flow backwards through the lubrication thingy. Since you have a significant amount of air lines behind it the flow is probably large enough to bring oil back up to the junction and deposit also some in your air dryer, reducing its efficiency.
@@DirtPerfect well you can't avoid it. As soon as your air pressure drops while you're painting it will suck in oil. Probably will take a while until its enough contaminated that you'll notice it. I would avoid it by installing a check valve.
So if it’s anything like the one at my old work the air drain dumps the moisture out along with a dump of air who was the first person washing there hands that got a fright?
Mike, others have commented the same but you should leave the dryer running so it maintains dew point and stays cold. What compressor are you running? If it is tank mounted, how often do you drain the tank? About 80% of the water produced will be removed in the tank. A zero loss automatic drain will greatly help the system. It will dump the water as it accumulates but won’t waste any air. 34 years selling servicing and designing compressed air systems.
Keep the good videos coming!
In addition here, you mentioned that you had a secondary air receiver. If you plumb that into the system the right way, it also acts as a precipitator, removing even more moisture before it gets to the dryer.
In saying that, my current workshop system has a rotary screw compressor feeding directly through the drier, then to the receiver (tank).
From there it feeds a 1" main around both buildings with 1/2" droppers to the work stations.
One building is panel/paint, the other is mechanical so the only oilers in the system are tool or machine mounted where required.
Nice upgrade, fun vid.! I operated a H.F. air drier (in an automotive research group) that fed filtered & dry air to a Constant Volume Combustion Chamber (C.V.C.C.), with 2" thick glass windows for hi-speed photography of combustion flame front studies & or fuel injection spray patterns.
The instructions stated (I know, I know, but I was paid to read, comprehend, understand & follow instructions!😇) to turn on the drier about 10 min. Before introducing comp. air into the drier. The gauge needed to point to a certain color, indicating the refrigerant section reached operating cold temp. Reason: Uncooled air would carry water vapor right thru the warm drier. In a precise research environment water contaminates the combustion air, altering combustion properties & exhaust gas analysis, i.e. junk data! In the real world the effect is tiny, especially if air demand is zero for the 1st. 10 min after opening the air valve.
Ideally an air system is equipped with 4 stages of moisture removal designed into it. #1) A CFM flow matched Air to Air aftercooler directly out of the comp. pump lowers 300 F deg. air to room temp., then into a triple metal pipe up & down arrangement, valves at bottom of each to drain water. #2)Next into a water trap/filter just BEFORE entering the tank. At this point the majority of water is removed before the tank & many tanks will have NO water to drain out, greatly extending tank life by decades! #3) Add a fine particle filter & Now the Drier AFTER the tank won't have to work as hard, helping it produce even drier air since it is not overwhelmed with such wet air. #4) At this point air may be dry enough for air tools & a sand blaster, & general shop needs, but plasma cutters, & paint systems may need the cleanest, driest air possible using a "toilet paper cartridge" coalescing filter &/or desiccant bead drier. This system design makes each section remove lots of moisture initially to help the next section be more efficient & not be overwhelmed. A shout-out to YTer "THE Compressor Guru, Bud Steiner for making Air System design wisdom & DIY compressor repair knowledge (& parts) available to the world! Paul from S. Central Tx.
Mike, i have set up a lot of air systems. The main line that you just removed from the shop line and put a 90 on up to the dryer should be a tee with a line running down and a ball valve on the bottom. You are going to collect a lot of water before your dryer in that line as the air cools. The drop would allow it to collect and the valve allows you to drain it periodically. This will also help you dryer out by removing a lot of water from the air before it gets there.
Would you agree with my comment here that the dryer should be placed between the compressor and the storage tank to avoid that the air has time to cool down in the tank?
@@RubenKelevra No I wouldn't. The time the air is in the tank allows it to cool and shed a huge amount of water. This will remove the majority of the water. The tank is or should be equipped with a drain. The air dryer would not be able to sufficiently. There are air coolers, not dryers, that can be installed between the compressor and tank, but their primary duty is to cool the air to help the water separate in the tank more efficiently. Mike has installed this correctly.
@@patrickcolahan7499 interesting. I was under the impression that the CFM printed on the air dryer is what it's able to cope with as a continuous flow.
I mean what's the point then to install a dryer in the first place? The air won't cool down any further until it reaches the exhaust port of the tool, so there won't be any additional condensation after it cooled to room temperature, right? 🤔
@@RubenKelevra Ruben, The dryer works by cooling the air down like a refrigerator which causes the water droplets in the air to condense and separate from the air. The CFM rating is based on an assumed air temp entering the dryer. The air straight from the compressor is the hottest which would very difficult for the dryer to cool sufficiently to remove the moisture.
@@patrickcolahan7499 hm okay, but isn't the moisture forming in the tank an issue, as the water droplets sucked away by the air stream from the walls will travel through the dryer with no resistance, as it's not water vapour? 🤔
It is a strain relief it goes in the knockout
Dennis gets me🙃
@@JasonWorksAlot yes sir
Love your video. Correct terminology is condensate is a noun, a thing, a product of the action condensation. Condensation being the action (verb) of the water vapor in the air changing state to water(condensate). You were correct and Your friend was incorrect in your opening description of what/how the refrigerated air drier works. Keep the videos coming.
Agreed Lloyd, as soon as his friend said it I knew he was wrong, even cocky people can be wrong ;-)
DP, what he said
One thing I leaned long time ago was that the horizontal mains should not be dead level. Also droppers should be interspersed along the run with cocks at the very end to facilitate draining the water.
Never a dull moment when u and Jason get together
Have to keep it interesting or he gets bored with my yaknow
Jason you wrap the Teflon tape clock wise. Lol God bless
Shhhhh
The high dollar air line oil is just 20 weight non-detergent. Can be hard to find. Ask your distributor.
Good to see Jason glad the dryer worked I need to put one in my shop eventually.
hey mike, just leave the unit on and use the breaker to turn it off and on.
Great job and I see you didn't get hose extensions so MBTS could reach the chain fall controls without his high heels!
2 things Mike one not sure .. the dryer it could move on the shelf ??? maybe put a block of wood around the edge so it does not walk off the shelf .. # 2 big one make sure you mark your air hose that has no oil ,, so nobody hooks it on the normal line ,, it would suck to try and paint and spray oil on the paint job ,, or blow dust off your self and spray oil on your body ,, great video ..
Thank you guys for answering so many questions i had about integrating an air dryer! I have watched dozens of videos about removing moisture from compressed air systems. I bought an FS-Curtis air dryer. Although pricey, it's neat, clean, quiet and works without a wall full of copper artwork, fans and mini radiators! Keep on truckin'!
Great video Mike….lol. The dryer thing is pretty important especially in shops where air lines run throughout the shop.
I’ve had my hf air dryer for going on 16 years now with only 1 issue. It has a float valve that is supposed to drain the condansate that it catches. This arrangment tends to clog so I replaced the float valve with an electric timed air solenoid valve that pops off periodically. I alsoo have one on my tank. My dryer has run constantly since I installed it. The timers also run constantly even when the compressor is shut down. When I need oiled air, I have oilers that I can connect with short 10 ft. lines for portable grinders, drills, etc. Works with no issues!😀
We had the same dryer,lasted about 5 years,but we used everyday,hope you have better luck.
Switch downstairs will be a nice last step
Small airline oiler at the hoist that's along way to push the oil . Nice plumbing job.
We used one of those harbor freight air dryers on our machine shop with 8 haas CNC machines for about 3 years. It actually worked pretty good. Especially for the price. The only thing that was a pain was the capacity of water it would hold. We bought a good timed drain and put it on. Worked decently.
Good deal
I would leave that drain running into the sink so you can see it is still working. I've had dehumidifiers set up with automatic drains, and when they fail you don't notice.
Mikey… do you you ever notice a change in humidity when you and JWAL get together? As I recall… hot air carries more moisture.
I take pride in the plumbing jobs that I do. I planned to replace the 1/2” CPVC main lines under my house with 3/4” PEX.
So, I sat down, sketched it all out and figured about 200’ of PEX would do it. I then proceeded to procrastinate the project for a year.
In the meantime… my wife decided we needed to add a water softener. That required a revision to my plan… so, I drug it out and sketched out a feeder loop for the mainline. That added 35’.
When we met with the water softener technician to discuss the installation…. I made a copy of my plan. To say he was underwhelmed would be an overstatement.
He laid the plan down and listened as I explained my reasoning for the loops and jogs. As I did so, he was reaching for the pen in his pocket.
Then he said… how about we do this? And then he drew a straight line from the water tank to the water softener. He then put an outlet line over to the hot water tank and the old feeder line…. He cut my 235’ of piping in half! And bonus… it was included in the original quote!
Mikey, your plumbing looked great to me… but, the Water Softener Tech proved… I ain’t no expert!!!
the background on the computer is the best!
Key points.
It is mostly the pressure swing, not the temperature swing, that drives the moisture to condense.
Treat horizontal runs as if they are flowing water. Always have them run down hill with air flow. Always terminate a horizontal run with a drip leg.
Always T off a horizontal run to a point of use (POU) by facing the T fitting up and doing a 180 degree to a vertical drop. This keeps condensate flowing along the bottom of the horizontal run and not into the POU.
Every vertical run needs a drip leg. Input to the oiler is no exception.
Keep the oiler close to the process. Oil mist will drop out of the air and collect as liquid in the pipe or hose. This results in irregular oiling and a lot of extra oil discharge at your tool.
Segregate your hoses. Hoses for oiled tools will contaminate your clean processes. I use Trueflate Automotive quick disconnects where I have oiled air, Industrial interchange for clean air.
Good news been working perfectly for the last three months 😁
Thanks for ride along, like your dryer system set up.
Cool.. Love to see people admit they procrastinate.. I do it a lot myself, when it is something that will be boring and not fun to do.. That being said, I love how ordered your video's are.. LOL.. Also know.. It is not easy to manage several businesses, family life, doing youtube video's, editing same video's & uploading them in a timely well thought out order... Also Murphy's law pop's it's head up when you least suspect it.. Thank you for making the time to share parts of your life with us. I for one very much love watching..
Bodge it and leg it Inc is back in the shop lol nice to see Jason sir works alot is in an video and spaghetti junction is worse than that pipe work lol.
On the west coast we have earthquakes we have to strap everything.. I'm a plumber you have PVC air lines I still haven't run airlines in mine
i liked ur screen saver pic. my dad drank Pepsi all his life(68 yrs) so i grew up drinking Pepsi too. same for Jiff (smooth) peanut butter, and Smucker's jelly too(prefer strawberry).lol
Mr Dirt - wish you well in your latest modification. but - as a maintainer of such equipment I have found that the most cost effective addition i almost always the tallest/ largest receiving / storage tank you can find / fit and inlet and add a timed blow down low and outlet up high. Reduce cycling of the compressor and a lot of water can leave via the blowdown.
Going on 12yrs for my brothers Harbor Freight Air dryer in his Body Shop an Paint Booths.
Run a. Wire from the pressure switch on the compressor to the dryer..compressor turns the air dryer on
Any method of chilling the compressed air below the dew point is a major improvement and the refrigerated dryer is the next step. Congratulations and you will recover the cost in much improved air tool life.
You probably have wired in a switch but have you considered a relay from the compressor switch so the air dryer will run every time the compressor is turned on.
That way if someone turns one the compressor without the dryer your lines will not become contaminated with water.
Take the human factor out of it.
I have always installed a valve and a pipe extension at the lowest part of the system to drain the pipe on very humid days where the dryer can't keep up.
As always be good be happy be safe looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and videos. Nice to see Jason, system looks good. Never was sure about pex being used for air, the only inexperienced opinion I’ve had come from watching the build show by Matt Risinger’s TH-cam videos, he did an interesting comparison of plumbing systems with frozen water filled pipe samples, leading me to think the upnor pex seems to be the best, and coincidentally requires the more expensive tools. Glad to see the more common system you used worked just as well for you. Always interesting to see anything about the crane system you have in your shop. My only suggestion I’ve ever had that was appreciated was for a coworker who’s wife was nearly driven nuts by his compressor coming on in the middle of the night. Put a bathroom mechanical heater timer switch next to the garage light switch, whenever he needs air he gives it a twist and has air for a reasonable timed period without worrying about forgetting to turn the compressor off. For your shop I’d probably put a disconnecting relay in your compressor circuit tied to your lighting circuit. Wishing you and your family the best.
Hey DP I seen all them hoses in a milking stall LOL thanks for Gary
Howdy Mr. Dirt, I'll keep this simple - Better late than never! Good job! Take Care, Jim
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Will be great for all your air tools !
Yeah Mr. Workalot a Strain relief goes on a SO cord hanging from the ceiling. DP was right. Just turn the breaker on and off till you get a switch on it so you don't have to climb steps if it is on it's own circuit
Great way to wear out a breaker fast.
I have done it for years no problem. The breaker has mechanical devices to trip
You can add auxiliary contact to that air compressor disconnect and turn both on at one place.
The cross over is for if there box fucks up you sit have air.
Nylon DOT air brake tubing is an easy way to plumb shop air.
Yes use that in connecting my hoes reels works good
Hello Mike, it is Wintertime and you have time in your good assortment Workshop the Machinen to await and new part to install. And too the Work Shop the Air at to improve. You will always have the best. Good Video, and not great Winter weather., 🌬️❄️
Greeting 🇦🇹
You can run your power wire from dryer thru the box for power on comp. so when you turn air on it all comes on same time.
Mike and Jason great video, you two guys make having fun on all the projects you do together! Thanks for sharing! Kevin
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LOL. Have idea what you did. Your explanation was great and the chatter was fun. Only -10 this morning in Iowa.
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Mike, from experience, a lube point should be as close as possible to the point of need, as possible or practical. You don't need to lube all of your air lines. It might take a while to get the oil to the hoist, and won't be as reliable if your lubrication is at point of need, it will decrease the need to run separate air lines. If you put the lubricator at floor level, make sure you have enough CFM to move the oil vertical to the hoist.
A work around I did at work was to make a portable filter and lubrication station I could carry around, with about a 10' pigtail to connect the air tools that needed oil. All impacts, and air motors. I used one for an air turbine to clean boiler tubes. Good luck. Thanks for your response a few weeks ago on my basement project.
Will looks like I picked a good location then
I love all your videos, very educational, plus fun to watch. I had the same experience with the pvc lines literally exploding in my machine shop. I would recommend replacing them. I was told it’s the oil in the air making them brittle. It took about 7 years for them to burst, and I was fortunate someone didn’t get hurt.
Keep up the good work and the awesome videos. I am a gold rush fan too, but I will take yours or let’s dig 18 videos over them any day!
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I want see if water comes out of your light fixtures Curly!
If you add a contact to the air compressor contacted switch. So the dryer works at the same time as the compressor.
Looks like you got a great air system now.
Be safe working on equipment.
Great tutorial on air quality of compressed air! Thanks Mike and Jason!
Use the breaker for your switch
I have had tools from harbor that ran circles around the name brands. And like you said some were not worth the money for it.
It's amazing the extra mechanisms added to make other working parts more trouble free. And then when you add 'inventors' who connect it all together it makes interesting videos. Fun to watch guys.
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A strain relief is the clamp that fits into the hole that is left when a knockout is removed. It holds the wire in place to prevent rubbing, pulling and other forces that might loosen or damage it.
MOzark Mike… where are you from? I’m in S/W MO.
@@sassafrasvalley1939 I’m from the STL area, but I spend most of my time now at my property in Crawford County
@@MOzarkMike glad to meet ya! I’m in Jasper County.
Awesome video. Good to see Works a lot.
Good to see you too, Jimmy!
Another great video of you all having fun while doing an upgrade to the shop . Glad that you got the overhead hoist back to working . Looks like they did a great job at the machine shop repairing the valve body on the hoist .
Looks good an I like the back ground on ur computer
Love the Pepsi truck. Will it be going to job sites? LOL
i would have thought you can put the drain from the air dryer into a drum for free distilled water both suitable for topping up car batteries and using in steam irons etc,
We have a Harbor Freight Too close to our house as well. Most of the time its one and done but I get it. I'd buy cheap American crap if I could find it. Thanks for the update, I have fun watching your videos so Thanks!
I’ve said before,when you get together with any of your cohorts,you become a great comical relief.that’s a lot plumbing.great video.keep it up.😎😎😎👍👍👍
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The three valves are good in case the dryer fails. You can still use the air while the dryer is down.
Hey Mike, have you had a chance to carry any loads with your "" new "" trailer yet ?? ..... If you have, how is it handling the load.... Just wondering..... How about a short video hauling a load ..... Love your video's..... Would love to see the suspension working going down the highway.....
Coming
A knockout is a hole in a flat piece of metal. A connector goes into a knockout to hold a cable and protect it from the sharp edge of a knockout.
Mike another amazing upgrade to the shop, as always see yah on the next God bless y'all from Gaffney South Carolina viewer ❤️
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Nice job on the pipe work spaghetti 🍝 🤣🤣. Permanent installed airlines are job I need to do in my shop too !
Good vlog DP. MITS was a great addition. As the compressed air get hotter it gets less dense therefore it’s ability to hold water increases. The dryer is just like fridge in that it cools the passing air to a point where at approximately 34 deg F the air is denser and and its ability to hold water decreases and therefore the water drops out of the air in the condenser. 👍🇬🇧👍👍
That's for an open system. In a closed system compressing air at constant volume increases density and obviously pressure.
It just needs to cool the air below the dew point temperature which is a function of relative humidity (rh), temperature and pressure.
The dew point of 75 deg air at a rh of near 100% and normal atmospheric pressure is slightly under 75 deg. That's how it rains (which is condensation) when it's 90 degrees. The dew point is much higher than 34 deg.
You’re right it’s hit or miss on the Horrible Freight tools but if you’re 1 and done not a bad way to go.
nice shop update mike .
thanks for the video DP
Use the power from the compressor to energize a relay to power the air dryer. That way there is only one switch to throw.
Well,once again a great job done by Mr. Dirt Perfect and one of his highly competent (who's more knowledgeable about the item being installed) sidekicks and of course there's Keystone Cops music during the time lapse period which obviously is fitting given the comic banter taking place 😀😉
Now, back to the show Y'all.
The entertainment value is incomprehensiblly (insert fancy word ) outstanding.
nice fix on the control , and nice install on the dryer . do you have a drain line on your air storage tank , and compressor as they should be drained regularly
Mike, my buddy has the same harbor freight dryer in his shop. Has had it for a few years and has been a reliable and very good dryer. Just keep the dust blew out of it.
FYI, the knockout is the piece of metal you "knockout" to install the connector.
I miss the finger snap thing. I bet you miss it worse! Lol. It was funny the first time it didn't work recently. Nice content, great upgrade.
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Most air tools only lubrication is the water in the lines.
Hello Mike, why dont you use the breaker in the main panel to turn it on and off, beats running up and down the stairs.
Mike how often do you drain the tanks ? And do that have automatic drain valves on them ? If you want more life on things down stream of the compressor you need a coalescing filter after the compressor . As you may all ready know when it comes to air bigger is always better . And just leave the air dryer on don't bother turning it off . And put a cheap furnace filter that can change easily on its air intake side so its' insides stay clean that will make it work better .
Yes and a couple times a year
@@DirtPerfect keeping those tanks drained is your first defense .
Nice product install. I like the police and emergency service flag. They plus the American Veterans deserve there respective flags. Keep them all up. I support them all as I am a Vietnam Vet.
Thanks and thanks for your service
TH-cam background was awesome
Mike I know you have had this system for a long time. Have you ever had the pvc bust under pressure? We originally ran our compressor lines with pvc and after five years we had our main line explode. Changed over to metal pipe after that.
I have not
It's not PVC it's PEX. Big difference.
@@michael931 old original work is pvc he said
The refrigerant dryer is pretty awesome. I've wanted one for a long time but like you I never seem to get around to doing it. I have the run of the mill desiccant dryer which does alright, but I can't run my big impact on it. Other than that, it does an ok job. Maybe one of these days I'll have to upgrade. Thank God for machine shops. I got a mill and a lathe but in no way could I do a good enough job to machine an air valve like that. Have a good one DP!
Thanks buddy
Nice looking truck
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Very interesting Mike. I probably would have mounted the lube tank at ground level, running 1 hose down to a split (For paint) and then a new hose back up to the lines above. That way, you down have a nested hose mess in your office/TY area!
since you do have the first drop that is where you need to install the desiccant filter. The drier the better
Good one Mike - the plastic pipe is the way to go. John
Nice job you two, another project out of the way. Glad your back up and running with a nice controller for your hoist👍🇺🇸
Thanks buddy
FYI an air chiller needs to get to working temp before opening the pressurized air. You do not have a drop before the chiller so when you first turn on the air a lot of water is going to go right through the chiller to your hoist. My advice read the manual to see what the correct operating temp is before turning on the air and install a op of any kind right before the dryer to collect some of the water before the system.
Keep watch on your coils because they get dirty they also get grease dust in them
Yep, later!
You need more pixie dust DP for th snap thing!
Great upgrade 👌
...good one, keep safe...
Mike you can only do what you can do when you can do it you got a good Channel enjoy watching you your very informative keep up what you're doing you're doing an excellent job and I love when you build ponds and put in your Wix I just think you need just a little bit bigger sheepsfoot compressor I mean sheepsfoot roller I love what you do the best to you and all your crew
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Don't let the door hit you Larry
Leave the dryer on and just cut off the breaker assuming it’s dedicated by your labeling. No need to add a switch
I think you missed to add a check valve before the air passes into the lubrication thingy.
If you don't have that and paint the air pressure will drop and the air will flow backwards through the lubrication thingy. Since you have a significant amount of air lines behind it the flow is probably large enough to bring oil back up to the junction and deposit also some in your air dryer, reducing its efficiency.
Not had that problem
@@DirtPerfect well you can't avoid it. As soon as your air pressure drops while you're painting it will suck in oil. Probably will take a while until its enough contaminated that you'll notice it.
I would avoid it by installing a check valve.
Will do if I have issues
Can't wait to see Arron's reaction to that piping expertise.
No need to wait he love it
So if it’s anything like the one at my old work the air drain dumps the moisture out along with a dump of air who was the first person washing there hands that got a fright?
I used one of the dryers exactly like you have for my plasma machine for a decade. No idea if it works as it has been powered down for 5 years. Martin
Awesome