Thanks 🙏, is there any way to tell by looking at the parts inside whether the issue is present, or what to look for for typical symptoms of a failed transmission?
When the transmission starts spinning and draining when water is still present in basket is this usually because of a broken spring? Thankyou for listening.
At 10:41, those pieces have Up on them too. Is that UP facing you or UP against the spin gear? I have installed a neutral drain or two but can’t really remember which way they go. I’ll just have to pay close attention the next time I do one.
When the parts are positioned on the metal plate you should be able to read UP on each piece before you position the spin gear on it's shaft. So, if I understand your question correctly yes, the UP is against the spin gear. Thanks for watching, my friend!
Great video, but the new kit did not solve my problem. My neutral drain was working hit and miss. Usually would spin during the drain after the wash cycle, but often work (neutral drain) after the first or second rinse. I took out the transmission, washed out the old oil with kerosene, dried everything, installed the new neutral drain kit, and filled the transmission with SAE 80W-90. Worked perfect the first wash. Did not watch every wash after that, but now less than a month later, I am back to the neutral drain working hit and miss. I replaced the motor earlier this year, so I suspect the neutral drain may have contributed to the failure. Not sure where to go now. A new transmission for $200? Use as is and buy a new washer when the motor fails again? Any suggestions. I saw no obvious problems with the transmission when I replaced the neutral (and also saw no obvious problems with the old neutral drain).
I would replace the neutral drain kit again. Be attentive to the placement of all the parts, even those attached to the underside of the spin gear. Be sure they all say UP when installed. Sometimes you get a bad kit. Thanks for watching!
I would be tempted to try a new kit except my problem is exactly the same as it was before I replaced the neutral drain. What are the odds that the replacement neutral drain kit had the exact same defect as the neutral drain gears I replaced?
Thx so much. Really needed the tech operation manual that you linked. Answered gear case + tranny info as well as wiring info/schems. Extremely useful!
I'm really glad the tech operation manual and video were helpful to you! It's always great to know that the information I provide is making a difference for people in their repair projects. If you have any further questions or need assistance, feel free to ask. Thanks for watching my channel!
Given the amount of oil thats suppose to be in the gearcase from the factory, do you happen to recall if that amount of oil in great enough that when i go to swap out the transmission if that oil will leak from the vent hole? I ask because according to the service documents straight from whirlpool it writes to lay the machine on its back first, after which the new transmission is inserted in the machine with the top the tranny held perpendicular to the ground, and so I'm wondering if during the installation i should prepare for gearcase spilling out through the vent hole? Thank you!
I swap out transmissions on a regular basis and I find that the amount of oil lost through the vent hole is minimal. I wouldn't leave the machine on it's back for an extended amount of time but you have plenty of time to replace the transmission, tighten the bolts, and replace the motor and water pump before very much or any spills from the weep hole. Thanks for watching.
I wonder if any of the old ones had a big metal bull gear instead of plastic? I am thinking of making a pump jack out of one. I would like to know how many "sloshes" back and forth it makes per minute.
That's a good question. I bet the answer is out there for each motor speed but I haven't found it. I'm thinking the plastic gear was a way to limit a total destruction of the trans mission because I've found this gear failed when the two tubs get an article of clothing jammed between them. the torque of that worm gear would force a case fracture I bet. Glad to hear from you again my friend! Let me know if you find the answer.
Great video and I very much appreciate you answering the questions in the comments so thoroughly. Not many do that as well as you. I recently replaced the basket spin shaft and the water seals. Now my washer doesn't spin when the timer is in spin. If I stop the washer, rotate the timer to another spin cycle, such as slow, the spin will start with a small clunk, at which point I stop the machine and rotate the timer back to the spin cycle I need. It doesn't always work first time, sometimes it takes several attempts but once spin engages, it engages in which ever spin I select, until it tries to go into spin from a wash or rinse cycle. Thinking neutral drain kit?
Yeah, so if I understand correctly I’m thinking the neutral drain isn’t working. The way the machine works is after an agitation cycle the transmission is in neutral and will drain once it starts again. When the timer pauses after drain the transmission will (shift) into spin. When it starts again it should spin. I’m thinking you are causing this shift when you stop the cycle. It could be your timer if it doesn’t pause between rinse and spin. What do you think?
Kenmore is a Whirlpool product that was manufactured for the Sears corporation. It uses Whirlpool 350572 Oil Gear Case. However, this stuff is expensive and I think is the same as any standard 90/80 w gear oil. Run down to Auto Zone and get a 16oz bottle. It takes 16 oz’s to properly fill the empty gear case. Use an oil resistant gasket sealer when you reassemble. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a WP machine that will not neutral drain in with most loads. It will start spinning right after after agitation ends or it will temporarily neutral drain for 4 seconds after starting the drain cycle then start spinning, even though the timer did not pause. The neutral drain will works sometimes if I have a very small load but most of the time t doesn't work. Also, the neutral drain does engage after the rinse cycle about 50% of the time. Does these symptoms indicate a bad neutral drain kit or is it another issue?
Yeah, your neutral drain kit needs to be replaced. Classic symptoms are just what you describe. It’s not too hard to do if you are handy. Look through my videos, there are several that show how to do it. All will reference the Whirlpool transmission. Thanks for watching.
How can I tell if I need a timer or a neutral drain replacement. Kenmore 90 plus series 110.28972890. Does not spin when draining after first agitation. If I lift the lid the basket klunks and then spins. I have to lift and close the lid 2 times during rinse and 2 times during spin. If I don’t lift lid then washer timer advances thru rest of cycles but wash is soaked when it shuts off. Thanks
If your neutral drain was the problem then the basket would spin during the drain cycle after the agitation cycle with the basket still full of water. The sequence is 1. Wash-the motor is in forward or agitate direction. At the end of this cycle the motor stops and pauses. 2. Drain cycle-the motor reverses and transmission is in neutral while the motor drives the drain pump to empty the basket. 3. Motor stops and pauses which shifts (for lack of a better word) the transmission into spin. 4. Spin-Motor, still in reverse, spins the basket and drain pump at the same time. It sounds to me as if your timer isn’t pausing the cycle so that the transmission can shift from neutral to spin. You lifting the lid is causing the motor to pause and that shifts the transmission into spin. Here is a link to a whirlpool service pamphlet that explains how that works: applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/787930a_l-55_whirlpool_direct_drive_washers.pdf This pamphlet will explain the theory of operation starting in section two page 7 and explains how the timer controls each function of the wash cycle. I hope this helps you with your problem. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks for the explanation and link. I think step 3 you listed is where my problem starts. Problem is the timer is no longer available to purchase. For my model part number is WP3951770. I hate to get rid of the washing machine for this. I have had it for 27 years! Thanks again.
Hey, don't forget to check eBay for used timers for this machine. Sometimes you can find your timer number listed there. They don't make 'em like that anymore! Try to keep your old washer as long as you can.
@@HarperandKnowles Good news. I found a used timer on eBay 3951770 for $49. Installed it and it’s working the way it should!! The timer I took out has 2 contacts that look like they are discolored. Is this repairable maybe to keep as a spare ? Thanks again for your help! Just glad I didn’t poke around in the transmission it would have been a real mess and not fix the issue.
It probably is repairable but I don't have the patience to do it. I send my dryer timers to a guy in Pennsylvania to rebuild but he doesn't do washer timers. There might be a service out there somewhere but I haven't found them yet. It would be an incredible business to get into if you ever become proficient at it. These old machines are getting harder and harder to find parts for. Why don't you disassemble it, file the points and rebuild it? You might find a new niche in life! So glad you got it working again. Peace my friend!
Well, this video may enlighten you! Whirlpool Gearcase Rebuild | Total Overhaul Corrected th-cam.com/video/UbybdNrfYvg/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Maybe I missed it, but did you talk about what actually fails to require this repair? Can any of these parts simply wear out in such a way that might not be visible? In my case my washer agitates ok but fails to drain or spin, it hums during this time. The timer is moving. The pump is clean and free and the lid switch is ok. It seems like something is failing to disengage or advance after the agitate cycle. I am currently unable to rotate the agitator by hand, it’s locked up.
Because your water pump is on the opposite end of the motor than the transmission it should drain your tub if the motor is turning in reverse. So, what could cause this? The first thing I’d suspect is something jamming the water pump, but you say it is free. The next thing I would do is test that the motor operates in both directions, the reverse windings could be burned out. I have a test box I made for this and you can find how to make one in this video. th-cam.com/video/56OI7euGTEc/w-d-xo.html If I didn’t have a test box I would remove the motor from the washer and reconnect it to the wiring harness and see if it will run with the spin cycle selected. If it does then I’d suspect something inside the transmission is jamming the spin gear. But first I’d check to see if there is an article of clothing that has gotten wedged between the spin basket and the washer tub. That will jam the spin basket and cause the motor to hum in spin mode if the transmission fails to go into neutral. Thanks for watching and let me know how your repair goes.
I appreciate the detailed reply! Prior to pulling the transmission out I decided to check the timer. I pulled the fingers out and it turns out I have a couple fingers welded together. I’m not sure if I can separate them but I’m going to try. I’ll report back with where I ended up.
That is probably your problem. I failed to mention changing the capacitor in my previous reply. I hope you got your timer back together okay. It’s a tricky bit of work to rebuild one of those.
Well, the timer tabs cleaned up ok and the timer seemed to go back together fine. I put everything back together, plugged it in. The hum was initially there but stopped. And now the agitator isn’t stuck, it’s free and can be spun by hand. But now I’m tripping the breaker at my fuse panel when I attempt to fill or do anything else.
Hmmm, perhaps a motor winding got hot enough to melt a wire and it’s made a direct short. If you smell ozone around the motor area you’ve probably fried the motor. Try unplugging both water vale’s and see if your breaker trips. Could be a winding blown in a solenoid. Try unplugging the motor and test the timer, it might be shorting in the timer itself. Eliminate each component by unplugging them and testing for a breaker trip. If your pressure sensor is a black square box combined with the temperature switch I’ve seen those blow breakers and cause things like agitating with no water in the tub. It’s a process of elimination.
Hi. My whirlpool washing have gear transmission like yours. The problem is the cloth are wet after agitation and after rinse. The water do drain after agitation and rise. The problem is that it does not spin. The timer is ok because after drain cycle, the motor is running but the spin tub does NOT rotate. I look under the i notice that the transmission do NOT rotate the clutch. So i change the new clutch but it still does not spin. I strongly believe that there is problem on the transmission. Which part of the transmission is the most probable have problem? Neutral drain kit? Thanks
First I’d suspect the motor coupling. Make sure your machine is actually agitating by visually checking that the agitator is moving. If the coupling is okay then it’s probably the large spin gear inside your transmission. Changing the neutral drain kit will fix this.
@@HarperandKnowles my whirlpool has been run with no problem since I bought it in year 2008. I think when the water leaks thru the agitator shaft due to worn-out shaft seal and water enter the transmission gear box. The soapy water has cause the oil in the gear box to become muddy and causing problems. With regards to water seals on the agitator, spin tub, may I ask how many years (with 1 wash per day) (based on your experience) before I should change the water seals ? Thanks and more power to your channel
Chip I have discovered that I installed the wrong mounting plate on my neutral drain kit. I installed the one that has no extra holes and as it turns out my old one had 1 small extra hole which I discovered after I had done the job. The kit plate had 2 holes one larger and one smaller that's what through me off. The machine does work and neutral drains. Will this cause damage or problems or is it ok? Thanks
I’m thinking you are referring to the rack retainer “plate”. So, this is the story on why there are two rack retainers. In the original Whirlpool transmissions the pawl studs had a thinner threaded shaft that went through the rack retainer and into the main drive gear. It was a common problem that the pawl stud would break off in this gear and it was a nightmare to extract the broken piece from the main gear. To fix the problem Whirlpool redesigned the transmission to have a beefed up pawl stud that fixed the problem of the stud breaking off. They also redesigned the rack retainer to mitigate the shear force against the pawl stud, how this is different I do not know. If anyone knows what the difference is please comment. To determine which transmission you have there is a X stamped into the main gear. Also the threads on the pawl studs are different. The blue one is the modified, thicker, version and the pink is the original version. The two holes on the new type rack retainer are called identification marks and that is their only purpose. Using the old rack retainer with the new pawl stud will work but it’s not correct. I’d go back into the transmission and change them out. I don’t know how it was modified but I’d sure hate for that pawl stud to shear off and have to deal with that. Thanks for watching!
Hey Chip, great video. I've rebuilt to many WP transmissions to count. Just a heads up, WP has put out a couple batches of Neutral Gear kits that are bad. I think this is the second batch gone bad, and very transmission fails after the installation of the kit. Makes the techs crazy !!!
I may have gotten a couple of those. I rebuilt two transmissions back to back recently that would not spin after a new kit was installed. One is understandable but two one after another? I thought it was a coincidence. Thanks for the heads up.
Hey Chip, after rinse cycle, my washer starts to spin and drain at the same time! I thought it should drain first, then spin. I have a full tub of water spinning. Any idea what is causing this? Love your knowledge!
If your washer is of the Whirlpool variety then you need to service the transmission. Here’s a link to a video showing you how to do that: th-cam.com/video/hOFnb2Zh160/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
Hi Jerome. That is a great question. All Whirlpool-built top load washers use the same oil or lube in the gear case. You can find it under part number 350572. A suitable substitute is 90-weight gear oil, usually sold as differential lube. It's available at most auto parts stores. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles You're welcome. I remember the smell of the GE filter-flo transmission oil and the whirlpool gear oil smells the same. What does the transmission look like? I am blind so I would like a physical description. Does it use belts and pulleys or is it directly attached to the motor via coupler? I love washers and dryers. Also, what gears do these direct drive transmissions use like on the maytag centennials? What does the oil smell like?
Oh, wow. A Whirlpool transmission with its agitator shaft can be described as having the main body of cast iron conforming to the general shape of the two dominant internal gears. One large gear (the spin gear), about 6 inches in diameter, meshes with a smaller gear that fits around the agitator shaft. There is a heavy gauge steel cover shaped like an irregular bowl that fits over these gears.The post fits through this, and it makes a tight seal on the machined surface of the cast iron body. The shaft protrudes from this gear case about 18 inches. It has splines cut into the end of it about 3 inches. The plastic agitator fits onto these. This is a direct drive transmission connected to the drive motor by a coupler. Internally there is a rack and pinion attached to an eccentric driven by a worm gear connected to the motor. Above this are the neutral drain components. The oil is quite pungent and smells much like any other 90-weight lubricant. I hope this gives you a rough idea of how this mechanism looks. I'm afraid my descriptive skills are lacking.
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you. That helps. I remember that gear oil smell because of the old-style GE filter-flo that I had. That oil from the GE transmission smells strong and that is what it reminds me of. What causes the normal clunking noise during agitation? That gear oil is super heavy.
Yeah, the oil looks dark but the video is deceptive. If there’s no extreme wear on the metal parts, indicated by sparkles floating in the oil, and I can see down into the gear case and see the bottom. I’ll reuse the oil. You can also examine what’s on the inside of the cover. The oil in this video looked pretty good so I reused it. I used to change it each time but if you have to rebuild the transmission and there are several other issues with the machine you need to find ways to cut cost for the customer, else you look like your overcharging. Thanks for your comment. I’m glad to know some of my viewers as so observant!
I just took my tranny apart, drained out to old thick syrupy oil, and cleaned it all out with diesel (kerosene or whatever solvent will work)....seeing no obvious damage to any to the parts, I reassembled the tranny and filled it with new quaker state 90wt oil. Now it works like new without buying any replacement parts.
Good deal! I would have put in a new neutral drain kit while I had it apart. But, hey, if it’s working and you’re satisfied that’s all that matters. Thanks for watching and for your descriptive comment too.
Nobody answers this question. What if my whirlpool top loader sometimes spins and sometimes doesn't? Agitator works fine..Clutch is new, and coupler is fine. Lid switch is inactive and is irrelevant. Timer seems to work ok, except on knits and gentle cycle it doesn't work..Other cycles work fine. So is it my timer or transmission?
It’s probably the timer. If it doesn’t work on some cycles it’s worn out. You didn’t say whether the motor was running when it doesn’t spin. If the motor is running and not spinning then I’d say the transmission. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowlesOk, but why does it still occasionally spin if its transmission. Would it still spin on occasion if transmission is bad? It spins about 20% of the time. Yes i hear a humming when basin is draining, and it drains fine. I notice when it does spin i hear 2 clunks like something is engaging, but when i don't hear the 2 clunks then it doesn't spin. When i hear the 2 clunks it spins. What are the clunking sounds when it spins? Thanks for your help sir. I ordered another timer and transmission. Has to be one of those. Look forward to your reply.
The way it should work is after the agitation cycle completes the motor stops and goes in reverse. The transmission should now be in neutral and only the drain pump is working. After a certain amount of time the motor stops and the clunk you hear is the spin Paul engaging the spin gear. It then starts up again, this time the transmission is in gear and the tub should spin. If it isn’t going into gear after the motor pauses you should change the neutral drain kit in the transmission. Watch this video for that. th-cam.com/video/hOFnb2Zh160/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DdBMg3voog4HF5ru
Has anyone ever figured out what part wears out in the kit that causes the drain problem. All I ever see are videos of someone replacing the kit but never show which part wore out.
Sometimes the spring falls off the trip lever. Sometimes the little plastic part that keeps the trip lever contained in the square hole on the rack retainer breaks or wears off. Sometimes the plastic button under the spin gear that hits the trip lever wears out. Sometimes the spin gear gets stripped. Sometimes the spin pall wears out and wont hold. And sometimes you just can’t seem to figure out why it doesn’t work but it doesn’t.
@@robertleyva988 My thoughts exactly. I can't spot a broken or worn part in mine, but the oil accumulation around the pawls was definitely gummy enough to restrict free movement of the pawls. It likely only needs a good parts cleaning and new gear oil, but as long as I've got it all apart I'm going to put in a neutral drain kit as they're not that expensive and there's one in local stock. I wonder how many kits have been installed when an oil change is all that was really needed. I also wonder why the metal plate is considered a wear item. Also for those reading here, be sure to check the little plastic dogs in the agitator. My transmission problem was the basket trying to spin while the pump was draining, putting a lot of strain on the agitator with a load full of clothes still circling it. The dogs were likely worn before, but all are now totally toothless after making a slight ratcheting sound while trying to spin a full tub. The dogs are cheap so order them with the neutral drain kit if this was your problem.
Thanks 🙏, is there any way to tell by looking at the parts inside whether the issue is present, or what to look for for typical symptoms of a failed transmission?
Sometimes you’ll find a broken spring on the trip lever or excessive wear on the spin pall. Thanks for watching!
When the transmission starts spinning and draining when water is still present in basket is this usually because of a broken spring? Thankyou for listening.
It’s because your machine isn’t going into neutral for the drain cycle. Replace the neutral drain kit.
At 10:41, those pieces have Up on them too.
Is that UP facing you or UP against the spin gear?
I have installed a neutral drain or two but can’t really remember which way they go.
I’ll just have to pay close attention the next time I do one.
When the parts are positioned on the metal plate you should be able to read UP on each piece before you position the spin gear on it's shaft. So, if I understand your question correctly yes, the UP is against the spin gear. Thanks for watching, my friend!
Great video, but the new kit did not solve my problem. My neutral drain was working hit and miss. Usually would spin during the drain after the wash cycle, but often work (neutral drain) after the first or second rinse. I took out the transmission, washed out the old oil with kerosene, dried everything, installed the new neutral drain kit, and filled the transmission with SAE 80W-90. Worked perfect the first wash. Did not watch every wash after that, but now less than a month later, I am back to the neutral drain working hit and miss.
I replaced the motor earlier this year, so I suspect the neutral drain may have contributed to the failure. Not sure where to go now. A new transmission for $200? Use as is and buy a new washer when the motor fails again? Any suggestions. I saw no obvious problems with the transmission when I replaced the neutral (and also saw no obvious problems with the old neutral drain).
I would replace the neutral drain kit again. Be attentive to the placement of all the parts, even those attached to the underside of the spin gear. Be sure they all say UP when installed. Sometimes you get a bad kit. Thanks for watching!
I would be tempted to try a new kit except my problem is exactly the same as it was before I replaced the neutral drain. What are the odds that the replacement neutral drain kit had the exact same defect as the neutral drain gears I replaced?
The only thing that I can think of that would prevent the transmission from not going into neutral is the neutral drain kit.
Can a worn drive coupling cause the neutral to not get set?
That is an interesting question. I wouldn’t think so but it might be worth looking into.
Thx so much. Really needed the tech operation manual that you linked. Answered gear case + tranny info as well as wiring info/schems. Extremely useful!
I'm really glad the tech operation manual and video were helpful to you! It's always great to know that the information I provide is making a difference for people in their repair projects. If you have any further questions or need assistance, feel free to ask. Thanks for watching my channel!
Given the amount of oil thats suppose to be in the gearcase from the factory, do you happen to recall if that amount of oil in great enough that when i go to swap out the transmission if that oil will leak from the vent hole? I ask because according to the service documents straight from whirlpool it writes to lay the machine on its back first, after which the new transmission is inserted in the machine with the top the tranny held perpendicular to the ground, and so I'm wondering if during the installation i should prepare for gearcase spilling out through the vent hole? Thank you!
I swap out transmissions on a regular basis and I find that the amount of oil lost through the vent hole is minimal. I wouldn't leave the machine on it's back for an extended amount of time but you have plenty of time to replace the transmission, tighten the bolts, and replace the motor and water pump before very much or any spills from the weep hole. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles That is exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you very much!
I wonder if any of the old ones had a big metal bull gear instead of plastic? I am thinking of making a pump jack out of one. I would like to know how many "sloshes" back and forth it makes per minute.
That's a good question. I bet the answer is out there for each motor speed but I haven't found it. I'm thinking the plastic gear was a way to limit a total destruction of the trans mission because I've found this gear failed when the two tubs get an article of clothing jammed between them. the torque of that worm gear would force a case fracture I bet. Glad to hear from you again my friend! Let me know if you find the answer.
Hi. May i ask size of socket you use to remove the bolts on the top case ? What type of oil can we use use to replace om the transmission gear ?
These screws are 5/16 inch.
Great video and I very much appreciate you answering the questions in the comments so thoroughly. Not many do that as well as you. I recently replaced the basket spin shaft and the water seals. Now my washer doesn't spin when the timer is in spin. If I stop the washer, rotate the timer to another spin cycle, such as slow, the spin will start with a small clunk, at which point I stop the machine and rotate the timer back to the spin cycle I need. It doesn't always work first time, sometimes it takes several attempts but once spin engages, it engages in which ever spin I select, until it tries to go into spin from a wash or rinse cycle. Thinking neutral drain kit?
Yeah, so if I understand correctly I’m thinking the neutral drain isn’t working. The way the machine works is after an agitation cycle the transmission is in neutral and will drain once it starts again. When the timer pauses after drain the transmission will (shift) into spin. When it starts again it should spin. I’m thinking you are causing this shift when you stop the cycle. It could be your timer if it doesn’t pause between rinse and spin. What do you think?
Thank you! Can you tell me where I can read that technician's pamphlet that you refer to in the video?
Here you go. I think the transmission section starts on page 10.
applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/787930a_l-55_whirlpool_direct_drive_washers.pdf
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you!
I appreciate you catching that. I meant to put a link to it in the description. And now I have!
@@HarperandKnowles The neutral drain mechanism is a fascinating case study of clever mechanics. Good stuff!
.
Hey what gear oil would you recommend for a kenmore machine?
Kenmore is a Whirlpool product that was manufactured for the Sears corporation. It uses Whirlpool 350572 Oil Gear Case. However, this stuff is expensive and I think is the same as any standard 90/80 w gear oil. Run down to Auto Zone and get a 16oz bottle. It takes 16 oz’s to properly fill the empty gear case. Use an oil resistant gasket sealer when you reassemble. Thanks for watching!
I'd use the OEM oil.
Hello, I have a WP machine that will not neutral drain in with most loads. It will start spinning right after after agitation ends or it will temporarily neutral drain for 4 seconds after starting the drain cycle then start spinning, even though the timer did not pause. The neutral drain will works sometimes if I have a very small load but most of the time t doesn't work. Also, the neutral drain does engage after the rinse cycle about 50% of the time.
Does these symptoms indicate a bad neutral drain kit or is it another issue?
Yeah, your neutral drain kit needs to be replaced. Classic symptoms are just what you describe. It’s not too hard to do if you are handy. Look through my videos, there are several that show how to do it. All will reference the Whirlpool transmission. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks for the reply, I've been wondering for a while but couldn't get a straight answer. Thanks again.
Hi again. May i ask what size of allen wrench to remove the allen bolt with blue locktight? Thanks
I’m not sure about this, when I get to the shop I’ll check it and let you know.
5/32
How can I tell if I need a timer or a neutral drain replacement. Kenmore 90 plus series
110.28972890. Does not spin when draining after first agitation. If I lift the lid the basket klunks and then spins. I have to lift and close the lid 2 times during rinse and 2 times during spin. If I don’t lift lid then washer timer advances thru rest of cycles but wash is soaked when it shuts off. Thanks
If your neutral drain was the problem then the basket would spin during the drain cycle after the agitation cycle with the basket still full of water. The sequence is 1. Wash-the motor is in forward or agitate direction. At the end of this cycle the motor stops and pauses. 2. Drain cycle-the motor reverses and transmission is in neutral while the motor drives the drain pump to empty the basket. 3. Motor stops and pauses which shifts (for lack of a better word) the transmission into spin. 4. Spin-Motor, still in reverse, spins the basket and drain pump at the same time.
It sounds to me as if your timer isn’t pausing the cycle so that the transmission can shift from neutral to spin. You lifting the lid is causing the motor to pause and that shifts the transmission into spin. Here is a link to a whirlpool service pamphlet that explains how that works:
applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/787930a_l-55_whirlpool_direct_drive_washers.pdf
This pamphlet will explain the theory of operation starting in section two page 7 and explains how the timer controls each function of the wash cycle.
I hope this helps you with your problem. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks for the explanation and link. I think step 3 you listed is where my problem starts. Problem is the timer is no longer available to purchase. For my model part number is WP3951770. I hate to get rid of the washing machine for this. I have had it for 27 years! Thanks again.
Hey, don't forget to check eBay for used timers for this machine. Sometimes you can find your timer number listed there. They don't make 'em like that anymore! Try to keep your old washer as long as you can.
@@HarperandKnowles Good news. I found a used timer on eBay 3951770 for $49. Installed it and it’s working the way it should!! The timer I took out has 2 contacts that look like they are discolored. Is this repairable maybe to keep as a spare ? Thanks again for your help! Just glad I didn’t poke around in the transmission it would have been a real mess and not fix the issue.
It probably is repairable but I don't have the patience to do it. I send my dryer timers to a guy in Pennsylvania to rebuild but he doesn't do washer timers. There might be a service out there somewhere but I haven't found them yet. It would be an incredible business to get into if you ever become proficient at it. These old machines are getting harder and harder to find parts for. Why don't you disassemble it, file the points and rebuild it? You might find a new niche in life! So glad you got it working again. Peace my friend!
Mine won't spin at all. Coupler is good. I replaced the clutch but srill won't spin. Will this fix it?
It might, if your spin gear is stripped. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks for the quick reply. The motor runs but the shaft doesn't spin during the spin cycle. All other functions work.
Great video, you understand how it works. Now if I can figure out the agitator part of the gearbox, it will be awesome
Well, this video may enlighten you! Whirlpool Gearcase Rebuild | Total Overhaul Corrected
th-cam.com/video/UbybdNrfYvg/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Maybe I missed it, but did you talk about what actually fails to require this repair? Can any of these parts simply wear out in such a way that might not be visible? In my case my washer agitates ok but fails to drain or spin, it hums during this time. The timer is moving. The pump is clean and free and the lid switch is ok. It seems like something is failing to disengage or advance after the agitate cycle. I am currently unable to rotate the agitator by hand, it’s locked up.
Because your water pump is on the opposite end of the motor than the transmission it should drain your tub if the motor is turning in reverse. So, what could cause this? The first thing I’d suspect is something jamming the water pump, but you say it is free. The next thing I would do is test that the motor operates in both directions, the reverse windings could be burned out. I have a test box I made for this and you can find how to make one in this video. th-cam.com/video/56OI7euGTEc/w-d-xo.html If I didn’t have a test box I would remove the motor from the washer and reconnect it to the wiring harness and see if it will run with the spin cycle selected. If it does then I’d suspect something inside the transmission is jamming the spin gear. But first I’d check to see if there is an article of clothing that has gotten wedged between the spin basket and the washer tub. That will jam the spin basket and cause the motor to hum in spin mode if the transmission fails to go into neutral.
Thanks for watching and let me know how your repair goes.
I appreciate the detailed reply! Prior to pulling the transmission out I decided to check the timer. I pulled the fingers out and it turns out I have a couple fingers welded together. I’m not sure if I can separate them but I’m going to try. I’ll report back with where I ended up.
That is probably your problem. I failed to mention changing the capacitor in my previous reply. I hope you got your timer back together okay. It’s a tricky bit of work to rebuild one of those.
Well, the timer tabs cleaned up ok and the timer seemed to go back together fine. I put everything back together, plugged it in. The hum was initially there but stopped. And now the agitator isn’t stuck, it’s free and can be spun by hand. But now I’m tripping the breaker at my fuse panel when I attempt to fill or do anything else.
Hmmm, perhaps a motor winding got hot enough to melt a wire and it’s made a direct short. If you smell ozone around the motor area you’ve probably fried the motor. Try unplugging both water vale’s and see if your breaker trips. Could be a winding blown in a solenoid. Try unplugging the motor and test the timer, it might be shorting in the timer itself. Eliminate each component by unplugging them and testing for a breaker trip. If your pressure sensor is a black square box combined with the temperature switch I’ve seen those blow breakers and cause things like agitating with no water in the tub. It’s a process of elimination.
Hi. My whirlpool washing have gear transmission like yours. The problem is the cloth are wet after agitation and after rinse. The water do drain after agitation and rise. The problem is that it does not spin. The timer is ok because after drain cycle, the motor is running but the spin tub does NOT rotate. I look under the i notice that the transmission do NOT rotate the clutch. So i change the new clutch but it still does not spin. I strongly believe that there is problem on the transmission. Which part of the transmission is the most probable have problem? Neutral drain kit? Thanks
First I’d suspect the motor coupling. Make sure your machine is actually agitating by visually checking that the agitator is moving. If the coupling is okay then it’s probably the large spin gear inside your transmission. Changing the neutral drain kit will fix this.
@@HarperandKnowles hi. I change the neutral kit and it is now working. Thank you very much for your help.
I’m glad you got it fixed! You are very welcome.
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@@HarperandKnowles my whirlpool has been run with no problem since I bought it in year 2008. I think when the water leaks thru the agitator shaft due to worn-out shaft seal and water enter the transmission gear box. The soapy water has cause the oil in the gear box to become muddy and causing problems. With regards to water seals on the agitator, spin tub, may I ask how many years (with 1 wash per day) (based on your experience) before I should change the water seals ? Thanks and more power to your channel
Chip I have discovered that I installed the wrong mounting plate on my neutral drain kit. I installed the one that has no extra holes and as it turns out my old one had 1 small extra hole which I discovered after I had done the job. The kit plate had 2 holes one larger and one smaller that's what through me off. The machine does work and neutral drains. Will this cause damage or problems or is it ok? Thanks
I’m thinking you are referring to the rack retainer “plate”. So, this is the story on why there are two rack retainers. In the original Whirlpool transmissions the pawl studs had a thinner threaded shaft that went through the rack retainer and into the main drive gear. It was a common problem that the pawl stud would break off in this gear and it was a nightmare to extract the broken piece from the main gear. To fix the problem Whirlpool redesigned the transmission to have a beefed up pawl stud that fixed the problem of the stud breaking off. They also redesigned the rack retainer to mitigate the shear force against the pawl stud, how this is different I do not know. If anyone knows what the difference is please comment. To determine which transmission you have there is a X stamped into the main gear. Also the threads on the pawl studs are different. The blue one is the modified, thicker, version and the pink is the original version. The two holes on the new type rack retainer are called identification marks and that is their only purpose. Using the old rack retainer with the new pawl stud will work but it’s not correct. I’d go back into the transmission and change them out. I don’t know how it was modified but I’d sure hate for that pawl stud to shear off and have to deal with that. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles thanks for the response and the information! I have learned a lot from watching your videos
I appreciate your attention. I’m glad I could share some knowledge with you. Good luck with your repair!
Hey Chip, great video. I've rebuilt to many WP transmissions to count. Just a heads up, WP has put out a couple batches of Neutral Gear kits that are bad. I think this is the second batch gone bad, and very transmission fails after the installation of the kit. Makes the techs crazy !!!
I may have gotten a couple of those. I rebuilt two transmissions back to back recently that would not spin after a new kit was installed. One is understandable but two one after another? I thought it was a coincidence. Thanks for the heads up.
Hey Chip, after rinse cycle, my washer starts to spin and drain at the same time! I thought it should drain first, then spin. I have a full tub of water spinning. Any idea what is causing this? Love your knowledge!
If your washer is of the Whirlpool variety then you need to service the transmission. Here’s a link to a video showing you how to do that: th-cam.com/video/hOFnb2Zh160/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
Excellent video bro
Thank you for watching it!
Thank you for this. What weight of gear oil does whirlpool use? Is it the same one that GE used in their filter-flos?
Hi Jerome. That is a great question. All Whirlpool-built top load washers use the same oil or lube in the gear case. You can find it under part number 350572. A suitable substitute is 90-weight gear oil, usually sold as differential lube. It's available at most auto parts stores. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles You're welcome. I remember the smell of the GE filter-flo transmission oil and the whirlpool gear oil smells the same. What does the transmission look like? I am blind so I would like a physical description. Does it use belts and pulleys or is it directly attached to the motor via coupler? I love washers and dryers.
Also, what gears do these direct drive transmissions use like on the maytag centennials? What does the oil smell like?
Oh, wow. A Whirlpool transmission with its agitator shaft can be described as having the main body of cast iron conforming to the general shape of the two dominant internal gears. One large gear (the spin gear), about 6 inches in diameter, meshes with a smaller gear that fits around the agitator shaft. There is a heavy gauge steel cover shaped like an irregular bowl that fits over these gears.The post fits through this, and it makes a tight seal on the machined surface of the cast iron body. The shaft protrudes from this gear case about 18 inches. It has splines cut into the end of it about 3 inches. The plastic agitator fits onto these. This is a direct drive transmission connected to the drive motor by a coupler. Internally there is a rack and pinion attached to an eccentric driven by a worm gear connected to the motor. Above this are the neutral drain components. The oil is quite pungent and smells much like any other 90-weight lubricant. I hope this gives you a rough idea of how this mechanism looks. I'm afraid my descriptive skills are lacking.
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you. That helps. I remember that gear oil smell because of the old-style GE filter-flo that I had. That oil from the GE transmission smells strong and that is what it reminds me of.
What causes the normal clunking noise during agitation? That gear oil is super heavy.
I would think that noise is caused by the rack and pinion changing direction during the agitate cycle.
The oil looks pretty dirty in your video. Do you normally clean these before you put in fresh oil?
Yeah, the oil looks dark but the video is deceptive. If there’s no extreme wear on the metal parts, indicated by sparkles floating in the oil, and I can see down into the gear case and see the bottom. I’ll reuse the oil. You can also examine what’s on the inside of the cover. The oil in this video looked pretty good so I reused it. I used to change it each time but if you have to rebuild the transmission and there are several other issues with the machine you need to find ways to cut cost for the customer, else you look like your overcharging. Thanks for your comment. I’m glad to know some of my viewers as so observant!
What are all the gears made of? How thick are they?@@HarperandKnowles
I just took my tranny apart, drained out to old thick syrupy oil, and cleaned it all out with diesel (kerosene or whatever solvent will work)....seeing no obvious damage to any to the parts, I reassembled the tranny and filled it with new quaker state 90wt oil. Now it works like new without buying any replacement parts.
Good deal! I would have put in a new neutral drain kit while I had it apart. But, hey, if it’s working and you’re satisfied that’s all that matters. Thanks for watching and for your descriptive comment too.
great video
Thanks for watching , my friend!
Nobody answers this question. What if my whirlpool top loader sometimes spins and sometimes doesn't? Agitator works fine..Clutch is new, and coupler is fine. Lid switch is inactive and is irrelevant.
Timer seems to work ok, except on knits and gentle cycle it doesn't work..Other cycles work fine.
So is it my timer or transmission?
It’s probably the timer. If it doesn’t work on some cycles it’s worn out. You didn’t say whether the motor was running when it doesn’t spin. If the motor is running and not spinning then I’d say the transmission. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowlesOk, but why does it still occasionally spin if its transmission. Would it still spin on occasion if transmission is bad? It spins about 20% of the time. Yes i hear a humming when basin is draining, and it drains fine. I notice when it does spin i hear 2 clunks like something is engaging, but when i don't hear the 2 clunks then it doesn't spin. When i hear the 2 clunks it spins. What are the clunking sounds when it spins? Thanks for your help sir.
I ordered another timer and transmission. Has to be one of those. Look forward to your reply.
The way it should work is after the agitation cycle completes the motor stops and goes in reverse. The transmission should now be in neutral and only the drain pump is working. After a certain amount of time the motor stops and the clunk you hear is the spin Paul engaging the spin gear. It then starts up again, this time the transmission is in gear and the tub should spin. If it isn’t going into gear after the motor pauses you should change the neutral drain kit in the transmission. Watch this video for that. th-cam.com/video/hOFnb2Zh160/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DdBMg3voog4HF5ru
@@HarperandKnowles But why does it occasionally go into gear and then not into gear, if transmission is the culprit?
Good question. If only we could see exactly what’s going on inside that transmission. Probably a worn out part that’s working only part of the time.
Has anyone ever figured out what part wears out in the kit that causes the drain problem. All I ever see are videos of someone replacing the kit but never show which part wore out.
Sometimes the spring falls off the trip lever. Sometimes the little plastic part that keeps the trip lever contained in the square hole on the rack retainer breaks or wears off. Sometimes the plastic button under the spin gear that hits the trip lever wears out. Sometimes the spin gear gets stripped. Sometimes the spin pall wears out and wont hold. And sometimes you just can’t seem to figure out why it doesn’t work but it doesn’t.
@@HarperandKnowles How about really old thick syrupy oil?
@@robertleyva988 My thoughts exactly. I can't spot a broken or worn part in mine, but the oil accumulation around the pawls was definitely gummy enough to restrict free movement of the pawls. It likely only needs a good parts cleaning and new gear oil, but as long as I've got it all apart I'm going to put in a neutral drain kit as they're not that expensive and there's one in local stock. I wonder how many kits have been installed when an oil change is all that was really needed. I also wonder why the metal plate is considered a wear item. Also for those reading here, be sure to check the little plastic dogs in the agitator. My transmission problem was the basket trying to spin while the pump was draining, putting a lot of strain on the agitator with a load full of clothes still circling it. The dogs were likely worn before, but all are now totally toothless after making a slight ratcheting sound while trying to spin a full tub. The dogs are cheap so order them with the neutral drain kit if this was your problem.
Right on man thanks
Thanks for your kind comment my friend!
Thanks👌👌
My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Nice video subbed -PawPaw
Thanks for the sub, and thanks for watching too. PawPaw.