Note: The comparison actually begins around 10:25 into the video! Thanks for comparing the 2 developers. I’m going to develop my first roll in Xtol very soon. I was wondering whether to use it straight (stock) or dilute 1:1. Looks like you got great results with 1:1 so I’ll do the same. 👍🏻
I've been using Xtol 1+1 since Kodak first introduced Xtol back in the 90's. It's a solid developer. I also use D-23 for some films, such as Pan-F 50 (1+3), and XRAY. Pyrocat-HD is my main staining developer. Cheers!
@@analogueandy8x10Thanks Andy for the reply. One more question: Do you dump out the used Xtol 1+1 or do you re-use it? In your experience with Xtol, is it meant to be a 1 and done developer? Thanks again. Anthony
@@analogueandy8x10Another question: Do you ever use Xtol in a diluted stand method of development? I’ve used 10ml HC110 in a 2 roll tank for 50 to 60 minutes stand with success. Thanks! Anthony. Just subscribed fyi!
Xtol 1+1 is used as a one-shot developer. Xtol stock can be reused, especially if replenished. Replenished Xtol is often referred to as Xtol-R. It's actually easy to do, and economical. Xtol-R times are very similar to Xtol 1+1. Cheers!@@anthonys_expired_film
Thank you so much for subscribing, Anthony! I really do appreciate it! I did try Xtol diluted at 1+3 to 1+5. It worked but I didn't see much in regards to edge effects or increase in overall sharpness, compared to Pyrocat-HD, which in my opinion, is the best for stand/semi-stand.@@anthonys_expired_film
Oh wow. To me, the differences are practically imperceptible. Great information.. I’ll be more comfortable using both of these. Home made D-23 and Xtol (some equivalent). Thank you!
Andy: Just ran two rolls of HP5 @ 250 through my RB67 that are drying downstairs. Used D24 1:3 with agitation set at 3 minute intervals. These were just test rolls and I was really set on doing some pyrocat-HD for the first time, but unlike your case I don't have XTOL lying around but a LOT of chems for D23 which used to be my "go to".... but I'd never done 1:3 before - using mostly 1: 1, and more recently STOCK. Also through a green filter and a yellow filter at it so see what happened. My fails began with using my iPhone TEXT which wiped out. Also I had 2 backs and wanted to reload as the sun came back out about 5pm here.... and hadn't advanced the film as far as I should have when I opened the 1st back. Didn't think it would turn out... but amazingly it did. Weird. Also was shooting with a 50mm (new to me) and misjudged the fine focus on the lens (without my glasses to read it). STILL... so lots of less than stellar moments, and yet the negs look promising. WIll have to actually do some more serious testing and go back to my notebook to get control of things. And yeah.... back to 4X5, too. Thanks for the inspiration! Thanks to your tests.... I even went out to find similarly shaped test tree to do this with. Guess I'm geeking out, but it was fun.
Very good stuff . . . Pan F+ is one of my favorites. I have heaps of D-76 and Microdol-X . . . You have inspired me to do a similar comparison. Thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome! D-76 is an excellent developer. Very similar to D-23 but with more punch. I would probably dilute it 1+3 with Pan F. I'm never tried Microdol-X. When you do the comparison, I would love to see your results!
@@analogueandy8x10 Andy I am just getting my darkroom back on line from a move from NY to Southern Missouri last year. Lots of new photo opportunities here. I would be glad to share the comparison results when I do them. I also like Rodinal for quick and easy.
Very helpful, well done video comparison. I was expecting a significant speed loss with the D-23, but clearly not happening here. Straight D-23 would also have me expecting a substantial loss in sharpness, but that does not seem to occur when used 1:3. Dilution of the D-23 significantly reduces the silver dissolving and replating which happens when developing with a full stock solution of 100 grams per liter of sulfite. Overall, a happy surprise. My experience with D-23 is from the 1970s, at which time I do not think anyone was talking about using D-23 in a highly diluted working solution. The developing time must be very long.
Interesting. My testing, though not exhaustive, has showed a significant speed loss with D-23 1:3, which I had planned to use for taming very-high-reflectance-range situations. For scenes with little important detail at Zone III and below, the high-value rendering is gorgeous. When I need the detail, I used David Kachel's SLIMT pre-bleaching system. It may be that I just haven't found the right time-agitation for 1:3. Since portraiture is my focus, rating the film lower than 200 is not helpful, tending into shutter speeds too long.
I used David's SLIMT back in the 90's. I found TMY very effective with this technique, HP5 not so much. Since I started using Sandy King's Pyrocat-HD, about 20 years ago, I haven't used SLIMT for years.
I have never used Xtol or D-23. Mostly I prefer Acufine or Microdol-X (or the generic equivalent) and HC-110 if the film is expired and I think it will be fogged.
Yes, I've been following this closely. I do hope they find a way to bring it to market. Thankfully, there are alternatives. I have also been playing around with DIY versions.@@chesslover8829
@analogueandy8x10 A month ago, the TH-cam channel, Learn Film Photography, ran a detailed business report about Kodak's financial health entitled, "Is Kodak Okay?" The conclusion of that report was no, at least in my opinion. Kodak is facing the real possibility of disappearing entirely. It's now common knowledge that Kodak sold its chemical and paper business to Sino Promise, a Chinese company, who in turn recently stopped production of most if not all of Kodak-branded chemistry, including XTOL, D-76, and HC-110, the new thinner version. Two XTOL clones exist: Adox XT-3 (available in Europe, but not so much in the U.S.) and Crawley's FX-55, the formula of which is available online. Anyone wanting to use an XTOL-like developer might want to consider using Crawley's FX-55 formula by mixing his or her own.
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Your videos are always very, very educational. Thank you.
RS. Canada
Note: The comparison actually begins around 10:25 into the video! Thanks for comparing the 2 developers. I’m going to develop my first roll in Xtol very soon. I was wondering whether to use it straight (stock) or dilute 1:1. Looks like you got great results with 1:1 so I’ll do the same. 👍🏻
I've been using Xtol 1+1 since Kodak first introduced Xtol back in the 90's. It's a solid developer. I also use D-23 for some films, such as Pan-F 50 (1+3), and XRAY. Pyrocat-HD is my main staining developer. Cheers!
@@analogueandy8x10Thanks Andy for the reply. One more question: Do you dump out the used Xtol 1+1 or do you re-use it? In your experience with Xtol, is it meant to be a 1 and done developer? Thanks again. Anthony
@@analogueandy8x10Another question: Do you ever use Xtol in a diluted stand method of development? I’ve used 10ml HC110 in a 2 roll tank for 50 to 60 minutes stand with success. Thanks! Anthony. Just subscribed fyi!
Xtol 1+1 is used as a one-shot developer. Xtol stock can be reused, especially if replenished. Replenished Xtol is often referred to as Xtol-R. It's actually easy to do, and economical. Xtol-R times are very similar to Xtol 1+1. Cheers!@@anthonys_expired_film
Thank you so much for subscribing, Anthony! I really do appreciate it! I did try Xtol diluted at 1+3 to 1+5. It worked but I didn't see much in regards to edge effects or increase in overall sharpness, compared to Pyrocat-HD, which in my opinion, is the best for stand/semi-stand.@@anthonys_expired_film
Oh wow. To me, the differences are practically imperceptible. Great information.. I’ll be more comfortable using both of these. Home made D-23 and Xtol (some equivalent). Thank you!
Andy: Just ran two rolls of HP5 @ 250 through my RB67 that are drying downstairs. Used D24 1:3 with agitation set at 3 minute intervals. These were just test rolls and I was really set on doing some pyrocat-HD for the first time, but unlike your case I don't have XTOL lying around but a LOT of chems for D23 which used to be my "go to".... but I'd never done 1:3 before - using mostly 1: 1, and more recently STOCK. Also through a green filter and a yellow filter at it so see what happened. My fails began with using my iPhone TEXT which wiped out. Also I had 2 backs and wanted to reload as the sun came back out about 5pm here.... and hadn't advanced the film as far as I should have when I opened the 1st back. Didn't think it would turn out... but amazingly it did. Weird. Also was shooting with a 50mm (new to me) and misjudged the fine focus on the lens (without my glasses to read it). STILL... so lots of less than stellar moments, and yet the negs look promising. WIll have to actually do some more serious testing and go back to my notebook to get control of things. And yeah.... back to 4X5, too. Thanks for the inspiration! Thanks to your tests.... I even went out to find similarly shaped test tree to do this with. Guess I'm geeking out, but it was fun.
Would love to see your D-23 1+3 results!
Very good stuff . . . Pan F+ is one of my favorites. I have heaps of D-76 and Microdol-X . . . You have inspired me to do a similar comparison. Thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome! D-76 is an excellent developer. Very similar to D-23 but with more punch. I would probably dilute it 1+3 with Pan F. I'm never tried Microdol-X. When you do the comparison, I would love to see your results!
@@analogueandy8x10 Andy I am just getting my darkroom back on line from a move from NY to Southern Missouri last year. Lots of new photo opportunities here. I would be glad to share the comparison results when I do them. I also like Rodinal for quick and easy.
Very helpful, well done video comparison. I was expecting a significant speed loss with the D-23, but clearly not happening here. Straight D-23 would also have me expecting a substantial loss in sharpness, but that does not seem to occur when used 1:3. Dilution of the D-23 significantly reduces the silver dissolving and replating which happens when developing with a full stock solution of 100 grams per liter of sulfite. Overall, a happy surprise. My experience with D-23 is from the 1970s, at which time I do not think anyone was talking about using D-23 in a highly diluted working solution. The developing time must be very long.
12:30 20C (EI 25) ... Not too long. Thanks for your comments!
Great video Andy!
Thank you, Maureen!!
Interesting. My testing, though not exhaustive, has showed a significant speed loss with D-23 1:3, which I had planned to use for taming very-high-reflectance-range situations. For scenes with little important detail at Zone III and below, the high-value rendering is gorgeous. When I need the detail, I used David Kachel's SLIMT pre-bleaching system. It may be that I just haven't found the right time-agitation for 1:3. Since portraiture is my focus, rating the film lower than 200 is not helpful, tending into shutter speeds too long.
I used David's SLIMT back in the 90's. I found TMY very effective with this technique, HP5 not so much. Since I started using Sandy King's Pyrocat-HD, about 20 years ago, I haven't used SLIMT for years.
I have never used Xtol or D-23. Mostly I prefer Acufine or Microdol-X (or the generic equivalent) and HC-110 if the film is expired and I think it will be fogged.
To my opinion your D-23 images seem to have much more deep shadow details than X-Tol
Good observation. D-23 (especially at 1+1 dilution) is one of my favourite developers. It's lovely with Pan F 50, and XRAY films.
Do yo discard every time the D23 1+3? It is not properly cheap if you're developing one roll.
Xtol is the best developer made by Kodak. It’s a shame that it doesn’t come to mix for a gallon
I agree! It's their best developer. At least we can get it in 5 litres! Then I can divvy it up into 1 litre sized bottles. Cheers!
@@analogueandy8x10 yes that’s true, I’m just lazy and would rather pour it into one big bottle 😂
@@analogueandy8x10Currently, XTOL is not being produced.
Yes, I've been following this closely. I do hope they find a way to bring it to market. Thankfully, there are alternatives. I have also been playing around with DIY versions.@@chesslover8829
@analogueandy8x10 A month ago, the TH-cam channel, Learn Film Photography, ran a detailed business report about Kodak's financial health entitled, "Is Kodak Okay?" The conclusion of that report was no, at least in my opinion. Kodak is facing the real possibility of disappearing entirely.
It's now common knowledge that Kodak sold its chemical and paper business to Sino Promise, a Chinese company, who in turn recently stopped production of most if not all of Kodak-branded chemistry, including XTOL, D-76, and HC-110, the new thinner version.
Two XTOL clones exist: Adox XT-3 (available in Europe, but not so much in the U.S.) and Crawley's FX-55, the formula of which is available online.
Anyone wanting to use an XTOL-like developer might want to consider using Crawley's FX-55 formula by mixing his or her own.