Sometimes they do bind up a bit, some penetrating oil and some heat usually does the trick. We have had a few occasions in the last 20 years where the cartridge basically welds itself into the valve body. If that happens, we do have complete replacement assemblies, our # 86-490H8.1. Replacing the entire assembly is a much larger can of worms, do this only if absolutely necessary.
@@deabath I made this comment thinking the next poor sap who follows the internet breadcrumbs trying to troubleshoot their old tub fixtures would find it funny and here you are being helpful all over again. Thank you for the insights!
On the cold side (where the valve shuts off counterclockwise) are the threads reversed for removal? Or are both sides the same, regardless of whether the cold shuts off apposite of hot…. Thanks
I used to see crane dialeze all the time. Then one day, that was it... I can't remember the last time I worked on one. But it was an abrupt end. Like, they were really really common, then I never saw another one. It's probably been 14 years.
Crane went bankrupt, then American Standard bought them out and destroyed all the tooling and plans. Crane Dialese are some of the best in my opinion. I have in my moms home and it is over 30 years I haven’t had to change a washer… Back in the day you could have changed only the stem, because that is where cracks would form similar to seats on other faucets. But this was rare.
THANK YOU so much for making this video! It's so difficult to find good information about how to service Crane parts. You helped me solve a problem that I've been wrestling with for weeks. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. Great information, but I have a problem. The faucet suddenly moved to a trickle on both hot and cold. Thought it was the stems. Replaced them and found the problem continued. Assume there is a diverter that sends the water to the spicket? Suggestions for repair?
@@robsimon6514 Okay, with the water off, remove a supply line. Use a bucket or other suitable container to catch water out of the supply line and open the stop valve. If you have a hard stream of water, then the problem is in the faucet itself. If there's only a slow trickle, then the problem is either the stop valve itself, or something further upstream. Let me know what you find out.
Thanks again. I actually turned the water on briefly with the stem removed. Water flow looked good. Sure seems like the problem is in the actual spicket itself.
@@robsimon6514 Up inside the opening of the spout Crane used to stuff a metal screen to act as an areator. It's very possible that the screen is plugged with mineral build-up. Stick a small screwdriver up into the opening of the spout, and see if it hits something.
This was very helpful. I moved into a mid-century modern house with Crane fixtures. Ended up with a leaky faucet and the plumber sent out by the home warranty company was clueless and terrified of the age of fixture. I was able to get a spare cartridge and do the work myself. The bonnet/cartridge wrench is well worth the price!
On the cold side (where the valve shuts off counterclockwise) are the threads reversed for removal? Or are both sides the same, regardless of whether the cold shuts off apposite of hot…. Thanks
Once the cartridge is out, temporarily put the handle back on . Holding the threaded portion, turn the handle like you would be opening the cartridge. The inner part of the cartridge will spin out. Be sure to inspect the tapered edge of the inner cartridge where the seal sits. If the brass is pitted or etched, change the whole cartridge.
Ahaaaaaaaa,....... I see. OK, now that I have the inner part of the stem out, what about the washer - do I just push it out past the front/handle end of that inner piece? (Seems like I would have to stretch/force it out)@@deabath
The cartridges are available for about $15 at plumbing supply store. Replacing all those corroded brass threads is a big plus for any future repairs. Hard to extract the old ones after 60 years of use, but used a hair dryer to warm it up. This video is a big help to be sure no reverse threads to mess you up.
The packing nuts were frozen solid (probably after 60 years in FL water) and one had the flats rounded off. A nite of P'blaster and judicious use of hammer and small cold chisel broke em loose.
Just buy the repair kit consisting of the washers and you'll be fine. Cartridge rarely needs replaced, just remember to clean all the metal surfaces where the old rubber rings were seated. Should last another 15 years.
Here in Canada, it can be difficult to find a washer kit, or the correct washers by themselves, so replacing the cartridge, which only costs around $10CAD at Home Depot, is what you normally have to do. It's just as well, because the old cartridge can have lots of corrosion on its threads, or on the washer seating surfaces. By changing the complete cartridge, those possible concerns are eliminated, plus you still have the old cartridge, so if you like, you can always polish it up and try to find replacement washers. If you do find them, then you'll be all set for next time, right?
Thanks for the very instructional video.
I found the answer to my question (…reverse threads for "cold" cartridge?) in the discussion. Great!
@ 4:20 "turn counter clockwise and it will simply come out." What if it does not simply come out?
Sometimes they do bind up a bit, some penetrating oil and some heat usually does the trick. We have had a few occasions in the last 20 years where the cartridge basically welds itself into the valve body. If that happens, we do have complete replacement assemblies, our # 86-490H8.1. Replacing the entire assembly is a much larger can of worms, do this only if absolutely necessary.
@@deabath I made this comment thinking the next poor sap who follows the internet breadcrumbs trying to troubleshoot their old tub fixtures would find it funny and here you are being helpful all over again. Thank you for the insights!
@@SuperDamncat LOL
On the cold side (where the valve shuts off counterclockwise) are the threads reversed for removal? Or are both sides the same, regardless of whether the cold shuts off apposite of hot…. Thanks
The hot stems on left and right for the Temple handle was excellent tip! Thank you!
I used to see crane dialeze all the time. Then one day, that was it... I can't remember the last time I worked on one. But it was an abrupt end. Like, they were really really common, then I never saw another one. It's probably been 14 years.
Crane went bankrupt, then American Standard bought them out and destroyed all the tooling and plans. Crane Dialese are some of the best in my opinion. I have in my moms home and it is over 30 years I haven’t had to change a washer… Back in the day you could have changed only the stem, because that is where cracks would form similar to seats on other faucets. But this was rare.
Thanks for making this video - HUGE help!!
THANK YOU so much for making this video! It's so difficult to find good information about how to service Crane parts. You helped me solve a problem that I've been wrestling with for weeks. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. Great information, but I have a problem. The faucet suddenly moved to a trickle on both hot and cold. Thought it was the stems. Replaced them and found the problem continued. Assume there is a diverter that sends the water to the spicket? Suggestions for repair?
Is the water coming out full blast and then slowly slowing down, or is it a constant slow trickle? Those would be two different problems...
Slow trickle all the time. Almost appears that the water is not being completely diverted to the picket or it is impeded in some way.
@@robsimon6514 Okay, with the water off, remove a supply line. Use a bucket or other suitable container to catch water out of the supply line and open the stop valve. If you have a hard stream of water, then the problem is in the faucet itself. If there's only a slow trickle, then the problem is either the stop valve itself, or something further upstream. Let me know what you find out.
Thanks again. I actually turned the water on briefly with the stem removed. Water flow looked good. Sure seems like the problem is in the actual spicket itself.
@@robsimon6514 Up inside the opening of the spout Crane used to stuff a metal screen to act as an areator. It's very possible that the screen is plugged with mineral build-up. Stick a small screwdriver up into the opening of the spout, and see if it hits something.
This was very helpful. I moved into a mid-century modern house with Crane fixtures. Ended up with a leaky faucet and the plumber sent out by the home warranty company was clueless and terrified of the age of fixture. I was able to get a spare cartridge and do the work myself. The bonnet/cartridge wrench is well worth the price!
Thanks
My faucet handle is stuck on! I sprayed some CLR in the hole after I removed the screw.
On the cold side (where the valve shuts off counterclockwise) are the threads reversed for removal? Or are both sides the same, regardless of whether the cold shuts off apposite of hot…. Thanks
Hi Thomas. Both cartridges are "normal" thread, turn counter-clockwise to remove, regardless of "temperature".
Excellent review, thanks!
How do you take this type of stem apart, to install new washers? (Other stems have a screw on the back end)
Once the cartridge is out, temporarily put the handle back on . Holding the threaded portion, turn the handle like you would be opening the cartridge. The inner part of the cartridge will spin out.
Be sure to inspect the tapered edge of the inner cartridge where the seal sits. If the brass is pitted or etched, change the whole cartridge.
Ahaaaaaaaa,....... I see. OK, now that I have the inner part of the stem out, what about the washer - do I just push it out past the front/handle end of that inner piece? (Seems like I would have to stretch/force it out)@@deabath
The washer will drop down from the splined top of the stem. You do have to work the washer over the threads, but it'll go.@@Carl55_jc
@@deabath Thanks for the assistance. One of the stems does have damage to that tapered back edge (pitted), but I might be able to save the second one.
The cartridges are available for about $15 at plumbing supply store. Replacing all those corroded brass threads is a big plus for any future repairs. Hard to extract the old ones after 60 years of use, but used a hair dryer to warm it up. This video is a big help to be sure no reverse threads to mess you up.
The packing nuts were frozen solid (probably after 60 years in FL water) and one had the flats rounded off. A nite of P'blaster and judicious use of hammer and small cold chisel broke em loose.
Very informative. Thank you. I just bought a brand new cartridge but still leaks. What else could be the problem?
Just buy the repair kit consisting of the washers and you'll be fine. Cartridge rarely needs replaced, just remember to clean all the metal surfaces where the old rubber rings were seated. Should last another 15 years.
Here in Canada, it can be difficult to find a washer kit, or the correct washers by themselves, so replacing the cartridge, which only costs around $10CAD at Home Depot, is what you normally have to do. It's just as well, because the old cartridge can have lots of corrosion on its threads, or on the washer seating surfaces. By changing the complete cartridge, those possible concerns are eliminated, plus you still have the old cartridge, so if you like, you can always polish it up and try to find replacement washers. If you do find them, then you'll be all set for next time, right?
Very helpful, thanks!
My outer D ring or bonnet nut has no flats for a wrench, do I use slip joint pliers or a pipe wrench?