You could try a cone roller bearing which might feel smoother as it bears any downward thrust too, as long as you can prevent it from 'falling out' - split ring or something.
Thanks, I will look it up! I actually ordered some bearings and nice metal knobs for the continuation of this project, but I did not have the time to assemble a new "potentiometer". I will do it some time in the future.
@@CuriousScientist I'm looking to start a similar project but using the AS5311 linear encoder with a 40mm ring magnet so that I can have a large hollow knob with a clear window and an oled display at the center. Maybe even an internal ring of apa102 leds to augment the oled and provide some colour. I already tried it with one of those ALPS hollow shaft encoders but they get very bulky for large apertures and feel terrible. I'm going for a mini Nest Thermostat style / interface and I'm sure the mag encoder is the way to go - with a suitable pcb and mechanical layout.
Your plan sounds interesting! I hope you'll end up with a nice result. I don't have this much ambitious plans with my build, I just wanted to learn this encoder thoroughly and I thought that the best way to do it is by building different projects based on it. I will probably go towards another area where I am planning to build some feedback circuitry for stepper motors.
bearings you're using are double metal shielded bearings which typically have grease in them instead of oil, they're meant for low speed. get fidget spinner bearings that have oil, slightly higher tolerances too and are usually cheaper than the ones you're using. you're using higher quality bearings, more than necessary.
This is what I had at home, so I used this. It is sufficient for the demonstration, and then everyone can decide which bearing suits their application the best. But it I still agree that these are not the most suitable bearings for _this specific_ demo.
Great video man I learned a lot, I have a kayak motor and the speed controller has the as5600 sensor and find it really hard to dial in the exact speed I want. Do you think it would be easy to wire in another switch or potentiometer with something that has a mechanical click on each speed setting? There’s 100 speed setting on forward and 100 speed setting in reverse on the motor
Thanks! You can use a rotary encoder for this purpose. If you need a more sturdy one with more clicks per rotation, look up CNC pendant wheels. I have projects with the mentioned wheel. 😉😎
@@CuriousScientist awesome I'm watching your video on the cnc encoder now. Could I send you a picture of the sensor, there are 4 wires coming off of the sensor that goes to a connector and that plugs into the speed controller.
What iff of you would add a seconden stage, with gears. That if the first one goes round once the second one only travelles one “step”. Would be an easy solution for a long linear absolute encoder.
If you can get rid of/minimize the slack in the system, it could work. I guess you would convert it into a linear encoder with those "rack and pinion" mechanisms. You can put whatever you want on the shaft as long as you can keep track of the gear ratios.
If you don't want to detect more than 360° rotation while the power is off, _absolutely_ (pun intended!). It is an absolute encoder, so it detects the magnet's position in a 0-360° coordinate system.
Hi sir, how many time we can program the as5600 using program B sir?? Because i try and working only for 90deg value of pwm. Out sirr, i need more like a 300-350deg sir, i try make more nothing happen sir
Which one? :) There are millions of different optical encoders. This can resolve 360° into 4095 steps (12-bit resolution) which is approximately 0.0879° step size. It is your call to say if it is as precise as an optical encoder (of your choice).
I would not mount the magnet on the chip, because there would not be any relative motion respectively to the chip... I would mount it on a shaft or any rotating object, and then fix the sensor somewhere according to the specifications described in the datasheet. Also, I guess a hollow magnet would work too as long as the strength and the orientation of its magnetic field fulfills the specifications.
I guess, we are talking about a single piece of standalone Hall sensor, and not the AS5600, right? Yes, it could be used, but it would be really cumbersome, I think. Since the output of the Hall sensor is proportional to the strength of the magnetic field around it, you can translate the output signal of the sensor and use that signal in the same way as you would use a potentiometer's output signal. But probably it would be difficult to (relatively) precisely change the distance between a piece of a magnet and the Hall sensor.
Exactly! Unfortunately, with these ultra light printed knobs, I couldn't do it, so I had to order a few machined, metal knobs. Hopefully, I'll get them this year.
@@CuriousScientist Note: Check your custom board (Like this one: Hall AS5600 sensor for Game Wheel 23x23mm): If there is a pull-down resistor (1k) on pin 5 (PGO), internally there is already a pull-up resistor, there may be a conflict If there is a jumper resistor (0R) between pins 1 (VDD5V) and 2 (VDD3V3), to work under 5V, you need to remove this jumper AS5600 pin 8 (DIR) selects direction, needs to be set externally, otherwise the readings may fluctuate
Why don't you watch the video? The answer is there, as well as on my website... I am not using any libraries, I wrote my own code to get the data from the chip.
No worries. Make sure you watch the whole video because the answers are probably in it. Also read the video description because there's a link to my website where you can get the code. ;)
This is the multiplexer you need: th-cam.com/video/j5qqMkE6Aww/w-d-xo.html And this is where you see how I used two AS5600: th-cam.com/video/IZ0FyiMYT48/w-d-xo.html
@@CuriousScientist It is ridiculous that the i2c address does not change, I will use an i2c multiplexer. Should I use rs232 or rs485 to use encoders in long distance? Thanks.
What do you mean by big distance? You can always read the documentation of the i2c protocol and see what is the maximum distance. I know for a fact that 6 metres of shielded cable was capable of carrying the i2c signal.
Is your code available? I looked at your site and it shows the 3d prints but I can find any code. Do you have a github or somewhere we can look at the code. Thanks for the work you do. Id love to play around with this.
Hi and thanks! I don't want to add any additional payment methods. One can donate via TH-cam (thanks button), PayPal (both via my website or via the direct link on my TH-cam page), and Patreon. I think it is more than enough to choose from.
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thanks this exactly what i needed. didn't want to pay 25$ a piece for high res optical encoders.
You're welcome. You can get approximately 5 of this for the same price. ;)
You could try a cone roller bearing which might feel smoother as it bears any downward thrust too, as long as you can prevent it from 'falling out' - split ring or something.
Thanks, I will look it up! I actually ordered some bearings and nice metal knobs for the continuation of this project, but I did not have the time to assemble a new "potentiometer". I will do it some time in the future.
@@CuriousScientist I'm looking to start a similar project but using the AS5311 linear encoder with a 40mm ring magnet so that I can have a large hollow knob with a clear window and an oled display at the center. Maybe even an internal ring of apa102 leds to augment the oled and provide some colour. I already tried it with one of those ALPS hollow shaft encoders but they get very bulky for large apertures and feel terrible. I'm going for a mini Nest Thermostat style / interface and I'm sure the mag encoder is the way to go - with a suitable pcb and mechanical layout.
Your plan sounds interesting! I hope you'll end up with a nice result. I don't have this much ambitious plans with my build, I just wanted to learn this encoder thoroughly and I thought that the best way to do it is by building different projects based on it. I will probably go towards another area where I am planning to build some feedback circuitry for stepper motors.
@@CuriousScientist That'd be great! So all us GRBL CNC enthusiasts can get absolute positioning and dispense with some of those pesky limit switches.
bearings you're using are double metal shielded bearings which typically have grease in them instead of oil, they're meant for low speed. get fidget spinner bearings that have oil, slightly higher tolerances too and are usually cheaper than the ones you're using. you're using higher quality bearings, more than necessary.
This is what I had at home, so I used this. It is sufficient for the demonstration, and then everyone can decide which bearing suits their application the best. But it I still agree that these are not the most suitable bearings for _this specific_ demo.
@@CuriousScientist fantastic video. watched others too, and to be honest your channel is the only source for detailed info about this topic. good work
Thank you very much! I try to make detailed videos on every topic I dissect and discuss.
Thank you SO MUCH
You're welcome!
@@CuriousScientist Do you do freelance jobs ?
Yes, I do. Contact me via my website.
Great video man I learned a lot, I have a kayak motor and the speed controller has the as5600 sensor and find it really hard to dial in the exact speed I want. Do you think it would be easy to wire in another switch or potentiometer with something that has a mechanical click on each speed setting? There’s 100 speed setting on forward and 100 speed setting in reverse on the motor
Thanks! You can use a rotary encoder for this purpose. If you need a more sturdy one with more clicks per rotation, look up CNC pendant wheels. I have projects with the mentioned wheel. 😉😎
@@CuriousScientist awesome I'm watching your video on the cnc encoder now. Could I send you a picture of the sensor, there are 4 wires coming off of the sensor that goes to a connector and that plugs into the speed controller.
Nice option for an absolute encoder.
Absolute-ly! ;) I will further develop this gadget, especially its coding part so it can be used for many fun things.
Bagus
What does that mean?
Amazing video! I'm wondering, how long did it take you two design this encoder?
Thanks! It did not take so long, I already had the basic concepts available, so I just fitted everything around the encoder PCB.
Have you already tried the burn_angle function to decrease the valid range (e.g. 0-30°)?
No, I haven't. I kept the default condition of the sensor, and if I needed something specific, I just did some math in the code.
What iff of you would add a seconden stage, with gears. That if the first one goes round once the second one only travelles one “step”.
Would be an easy solution for a long linear absolute encoder.
If you can get rid of/minimize the slack in the system, it could work. I guess you would convert it into a linear encoder with those "rack and pinion" mechanisms. You can put whatever you want on the shaft as long as you can keep track of the gear ratios.
Wou just the video i needed
Great to hear!
can as5600 read position when its position is changed after power is off and then power on again?
If you don't want to detect more than 360° rotation while the power is off, _absolutely_ (pun intended!). It is an absolute encoder, so it detects the magnet's position in a 0-360° coordinate system.
@@CuriousScientist Thank you so much Sir.... You are the real G
Hi sir, how many time we can program the as5600 using program B sir?? Because i try and working only for 90deg value of pwm. Out sirr, i need more like a 300-350deg sir, i try make more nothing happen sir
Hi! You can find the information in the datasheet.
is it precise as an optical encoder?
Which one? :)
There are millions of different optical encoders. This can resolve 360° into 4095 steps (12-bit resolution) which is approximately 0.0879° step size. It is your call to say if it is as precise as an optical encoder (of your choice).
Very useful information.
Thank you!
Can i mount a hollow magnet (that is magnetized across its diameter perpendicular) to this chip and get the readings?
I would not mount the magnet on the chip, because there would not be any relative motion respectively to the chip... I would mount it on a shaft or any rotating object, and then fix the sensor somewhere according to the specifications described in the datasheet. Also, I guess a hollow magnet would work too as long as the strength and the orientation of its magnetic field fulfills the specifications.
Great video!
Thank you!
if the hall sensor is itself analog, can it be used as an active analog potentiometer with an op amp for example?
I guess, we are talking about a single piece of standalone Hall sensor, and not the AS5600, right? Yes, it could be used, but it would be really cumbersome, I think. Since the output of the Hall sensor is proportional to the strength of the magnetic field around it, you can translate the output signal of the sensor and use that signal in the same way as you would use a potentiometer's output signal. But probably it would be difficult to (relatively) precisely change the distance between a piece of a magnet and the Hall sensor.
Amazing! good job
Thank you! I will make a better version of this once I get the knobs I ordered recently. I want this thing to spin for a while when I rotate it.
@@CuriousScientist like a flywheel?.. awesome!
Exactly! Unfortunately, with these ultra light printed knobs, I couldn't do it, so I had to order a few machined, metal knobs. Hopefully, I'll get them this year.
Did you drop out the resistor? Connected to 3.3v?
What do you mean?
@@CuriousScientist On the library page that I threw off, they talk about the need to solder the resistors.
@@CuriousScientist Note: Check your custom board (Like this one: Hall AS5600 sensor for Game Wheel 23x23mm):
If there is a pull-down resistor (1k) on pin 5 (PGO), internally there is already a pull-up resistor, there may be a conflict
If there is a jumper resistor (0R) between pins 1 (VDD5V) and 2 (VDD3V3), to work under 5V, you need to remove this jumper
AS5600 pin 8 (DIR) selects direction, needs to be set externally, otherwise the readings may fluctuate
My custom board works just fine. I never had issues with it. I just have to make sure that the unused pin (out) is tied to GND.
What library are you using? Seeed_Arduino_AS5600?
Why don't you watch the video? The answer is there, as well as on my website... I am not using any libraries, I wrote my own code to get the data from the chip.
@@CuriousScientist Sorry, I was watching
I'm just not English-speaking and did not understand everything.
No worries. Make sure you watch the whole video because the answers are probably in it. Also read the video description because there's a link to my website where you can get the code. ;)
Is it possible to connect more than one as5600 to a single i2c line?
Yes, but you need an i2c multiplexer. I have several videos where I show how to do it.
This is the multiplexer you need: th-cam.com/video/j5qqMkE6Aww/w-d-xo.html
And this is where you see how I used two AS5600: th-cam.com/video/IZ0FyiMYT48/w-d-xo.html
@@CuriousScientist It is ridiculous that the i2c address does not change, I will use an i2c multiplexer. Should I use rs232 or rs485 to use encoders in long distance? Thanks.
What do you mean by big distance? You can always read the documentation of the i2c protocol and see what is the maximum distance. I know for a fact that 6 metres of shielded cable was capable of carrying the i2c signal.
@@CuriousScientist I will use it for distances ranging from 10 meters to 20 meters using cat5-cat6 cable.
I'm sorry for my bad english.
Is your code available? I looked at your site and it shows the 3d prints but I can find any code. Do you have a github or somewhere we can look at the code. Thanks for the work you do. Id love to play around with this.
Hi! If you read the article on my website carefully, you can actually find the code. It is mentioned right in the beginning.
@@CuriousScientist I found the code. Thanks for this information. I cant wait to play around with this. :)
Super, have fun!
@@CuriousScientist I'm curious what size of screws you used for the 3d housing.
I'm currently 3d printing the parts you designed, thanks. You might want to think about putting a crypto-wallet address on your site for donations.
Hi and thanks! I don't want to add any additional payment methods. One can donate via TH-cam (thanks button), PayPal (both via my website or via the direct link on my TH-cam page), and Patreon. I think it is more than enough to choose from.
you have a hungarian accent :)
Sorry for that.