Hey, Jadon. I enjoyed this video just like all the others. When I looked at my blueprint, I saw that there were a few locations that showed triple LVLs. I didn't realize that they got glued and nailed together, but now that I saw you do it, it makes sense. Any time I made beams with dimension lumber, I always fastened them together, sometimes even with 1/2 inch plywood in between. Fortunately for my spine I'm not going to be the one doing my framing. I will hire an experienced framing crew to do that. I'll say again, I wish you were close to Nashville so I could hire you to do it, but I realize you're a long way from here. I have a question about the beams. Don't LVLs come in different thicknesses? I think I remember seeing some thick ones, so is there a reason not to use those and instead make the triple-beam at the job site? I'm going to make a guess that the triple ones are either quite a bit more expensive, or they are just too heavy to handle easily, but I'm probably wrong with both of those guesses. I have another question if you have time to answer it. My blueprint specifies 2x12 floor joists. Would there be any reason not to use 12 inch I-joists instead of standard 2x12 lumber? If I joists are as good or better, I would probably prefer to have the framers use them. I have seen some that are made with conventional lumber flanges, and others that are made with LVL flanges. Is there a specific benefit to using LVL flanges instead of conventional lumber flanges? Thanks for the good video. I appreciate that you take the time to make them and provide easy-to-understand details.
Hello Rodger, sorry It’s been a while. Thank you for your encouragement! I have seen LVL looking beams that are thicker than the 1.75” standard. But I’m pretty sure stacking the 1.75” to the needed width will be significantly cheaper, and framers are used to doing it. You do not have to glue them together, it’s just going above and beyond. If the beams get wet and dry out multiple times during the project, the glue helps reduce cupping between the plies. As far as 2x12’s or I joists: I-joists would provide a flatter floor. LVL top and bottom runners are stronger and less prone to spitting out when nailed. A heads up: I-joists will most likely be 12” tall while a 2x12 will be 11.25 - which could mess up house elevations depending on the plan (like zero entries). I recommend talking with your draftsperson and engineer about strength requirements as they can vary greatly depending on layout and plan specifics.
@@LevelUpFraming Thank you. I appreciate the reply and the information. I'll check with the architect to see if he has any concerns about using I-joists instead of 2x12 lumber. He seems to be a good guy, and I've paid him thousands of dollars. I hope he will give me a freebie answer. 😁😁
This is really valuable information for us Owner Builders. Thanks!
Thank you!
That’s a man’s saw brother 😊
Hey, Jadon. I enjoyed this video just like all the others. When I looked at my blueprint, I saw that there were a few locations that showed triple LVLs. I didn't realize that they got glued and nailed together, but now that I saw you do it, it makes sense. Any time I made beams with dimension lumber, I always fastened them together, sometimes even with 1/2 inch plywood in between. Fortunately for my spine I'm not going to be the one doing my framing. I will hire an experienced framing crew to do that. I'll say again, I wish you were close to Nashville so I could hire you to do it, but I realize you're a long way from here. I have a question about the beams. Don't LVLs come in different thicknesses? I think I remember seeing some thick ones, so is there a reason not to use those and instead make the triple-beam at the job site? I'm going to make a guess that the triple ones are either quite a bit more expensive, or they are just too heavy to handle easily, but I'm probably wrong with both of those guesses.
I have another question if you have time to answer it. My blueprint specifies 2x12 floor joists. Would there be any reason not to use 12 inch I-joists instead of standard 2x12 lumber? If I joists are as good or better, I would probably prefer to have the framers use them. I have seen some that are made with conventional lumber flanges, and others that are made with LVL flanges. Is there a specific benefit to using LVL flanges instead of conventional lumber flanges?
Thanks for the good video. I appreciate that you take the time to make them and provide easy-to-understand details.
Hello Rodger, sorry It’s been a while. Thank you for your encouragement!
I have seen LVL looking beams that are thicker than the 1.75” standard. But I’m pretty sure stacking the 1.75” to the needed width will be significantly cheaper, and framers are used to doing it.
You do not have to glue them together, it’s just going above and beyond.
If the beams get wet and dry out multiple times during the project, the glue helps reduce cupping between the plies.
As far as 2x12’s or I joists: I-joists would provide a flatter floor. LVL top and bottom runners are stronger and less prone to spitting out when nailed.
A heads up: I-joists will most likely be 12” tall while a 2x12 will be 11.25 - which could mess up house elevations depending on the plan (like zero entries).
I recommend talking with your draftsperson and engineer about strength requirements as they can vary greatly depending on layout and plan specifics.
@@LevelUpFraming Thank you. I appreciate the reply and the information. I'll check with the architect to see if he has any concerns about using I-joists instead of 2x12 lumber. He seems to be a good guy, and I've paid him thousands of dollars. I hope he will give me a freebie answer. 😁😁