Thanks for this. I haven’t done this for 24 years (at collage) and only now am I up against a project with MI. This has helped me pick up the tools and also ordering the materials! Top man.
Good Demo! There are several ways to strip MICC. Often on site the nice clean cutter would be a thing of envy. Usually you would end up with one that cut poorly. We usually tried to get hold of the barrel type (same action but with a barrel you could rotate for different cable sizes, like six shooter) or failing that we would make a "T Bar" up. This would normally be a length of screwed rod smoothed down with a file or grinder with a right angle near one end and a slot for 15 -20 mm down the other. You would then "open" the end of the Pyro with a pair of snips and put the opened tail of the sheath in the slot and wind it off to the desired length. The bigger the cable the quicker it went! We would hold the end of each core in turn with pliers in line and tug strongly on the core once this would give both a straight conductor pair and not leave a kink in the core that made putting the neoprene sleeveing over! When we were shown how to do Pyro they had a video of a guy making one off and terminating into a light with it. They powered the light and then proceeded to put a blowlamp on the cable for some time. Then just to impress us he then hammered the cable flat ..... eventually it blew but it took many blows for it to happen! It was so impressive I remember it from over 40 years ago!
@@GSHElectrical Well it impressed the hell out of me how much punishment it could take! Not sure where it would happen in real life though ;0) The only time I have seen them fail in real life is when the sheath gets punctured, lets damp in and angry pixies out!
Years ago, we were taught to megger the coil of pyro before making off the first end, to make sure no moisture had been attracted by the hydroscopic magnesium oxide.
Learned how to do this on my summer job when I left school. One of the jobs was a complete new house where the owner specified Pyro. Another was lighting on a pier. Still there. Process has hardly changed. I think we aimed to get it sealed much quicker than your demo especially working in the cold or outdoors, but you were giving a detailed explanation.
Ahhh brings back memories of college. I enjoyed doing it, shame I’ve not used it since. Surprisingly, I remember every bit of the process, even the tips you gave and I only had to colour sleeve one of the two conductors back then lol
So many memories, can smell that compound. Yes always short the cables with pliers after testing, found that out the hard way, but I never bent my cables round. Just quickly touching the jaws of the pliers to the pot and cores at the same time was faster. Really miss that this cable isn't used much these days.
The other thing was terminating the SY flex is it not better when you strip back the steel wire for the earth you strip it longer wrap the wire right round the gland then twist the wires together so they can't fall out the washers the shroud would still go on and cover the little twisted knot that would save pushing fallen out wire in with a knife or screwdriver as the twisted knot would hold wire in place when you tighten locknut onto gland. Cheers
I know this is short notice, but could you quickly create a video of you connecting a cable to a consumer unit and setting up a one-way lighting circuit? I have an exam on this on Tuesday, and I would very much appreciate it if you could do this before then.
Great video for newcomers to m.i.c.c cable or Pyro which was the manufacturer name that we mainly used. One thing you didn't mention, the plastic seals usually come with 3 indentations around the edge and you would line up the crimping tool with these indentations before crimping the pot. The crimper has 3 spikes on the aluminum flat plate of the cimper which indent the seal into the pot and stop the seal rocking. Maybe your seal did not come with the indentations. All in all a very good presentation.
Just a tip, cut appropriately a 3rd off the compound stick you are using with a knife and put the rest away that way there is less chance of contamination from fingers to the bit you don't use and it will keep it in its paper better with less mess.
TBH I used to do hundreds of these (for the Electricity Board) ..... As long as you close the wrap on the unused compond and don't kick it about on the floor it will be fine! The opposite end may pick up some crud from the workplace, but you never use it all anyway!
excellent educational video, as always. Funny to see all the types of cable and time consuming cable glands you guys are using in UK, I know for sure our installs in EU are safe and reliable too without them :) keep up the good work!
The only special tools You need are a crimper and a ringing tool A big flat screwdriver or tommy bar and side cutter. To strip the copper sheath On big pyros, if the pot does not fit,don't panic, file gently around the ringed end and the pot will slide on! Practice makes perfect
Those were the days using pyro , most pubs had them fire Alarms .. etc as a apprentice in 1973 .. many sparks today never used it some cannot use it .. it’s been replaced these days I know as I head in to retirement .. and tell my nephew. Who is also a spark my only computer was a pencil , a sharpener , and rubber ... a nd a note pad ...with memories of my teacher saying do not be a jack of trades , but a master of one .....
Great video, glad this is still being taught and on assessments, I think a nice MICC installation can be quite the work of art. I learned to do this in my Merchant Navy ETO training. I do recall wondering (after the 2rd one I made off failed an IR test), why don't they have short 'legs' on the inside of the cap too to help keep the conductors separated.
I was taught to clean the magnesium oxide off the conductors before putting the pot on to illiminate tracking. Plus look closely down the pot because on a few occasions there will be a brass slither from the internal thread that then sits across the conductors. Quite often you need a torch to check. Pyrotenix brand were worst for this. Not using rpsl?
Always hated terminating MICC when a neutral bar was at the bottom of a big metalclad dist board, and the live conductor only had to be connected to the red (brown) phase.
Fantastic video, WMC are delighted we were able to supply the accessories for the demonstration. We would be interested in using this on our own training seminars. Who would we need to contact for further discussions please?
Thanks for this. I haven’t done this for 24 years (at collage) and only now am I up against a project with MI. This has helped me pick up the tools and also ordering the materials! Top man.
Where can I order the tools for it ?
Thanks
you seem like an awesome teacher I love the energy you bring. I work in old buildings where MI is common this was so helpful
Thanks for the positive feedback 👍🏻
Good Demo!
There are several ways to strip MICC. Often on site the nice clean cutter would be a thing of envy. Usually you would end up with one that cut poorly.
We usually tried to get hold of the barrel type (same action but with a barrel you could rotate for different cable sizes, like six shooter) or failing that we would make a "T Bar" up. This would normally be a length of screwed rod smoothed down with a file or grinder with a right angle near one end and a slot for 15 -20 mm down the other. You would then "open" the end of the Pyro with a pair of snips and put the opened tail of the sheath in the slot and wind it off to the desired length. The bigger the cable the quicker it went!
We would hold the end of each core in turn with pliers in line and tug strongly on the core once this would give both a straight conductor pair and not leave a kink in the core that made putting the neoprene sleeveing over!
When we were shown how to do Pyro they had a video of a guy making one off and terminating into a light with it. They powered the light and then proceeded to put a blowlamp on the cable for some time. Then just to impress us he then hammered the cable flat ..... eventually it blew but it took many blows for it to happen! It was so impressive I remember it from over 40 years ago!
Great message Dave - I will be hammering MI cable in the next instalment 👍😃
@@GSHElectrical Well it impressed the hell out of me how much punishment it could take! Not sure where it would happen in real life though ;0) The only time I have seen them fail in real life is when the sheath gets punctured, lets damp in and angry pixies out!
@@totherarf you’re talking about a “Joistripper”
@@Chopzification Ahh Yes .... you are right!
Years ago, we were taught to megger the coil of pyro before making off the first end, to make sure no moisture had been attracted by the hydroscopic magnesium oxide.
Great point
Good video. I was showed by an old college tutor with a rolly hanging out of his mouth. Good times.
Learned how to do this on my summer job when I left school. One of the jobs was a complete new house where the owner specified Pyro. Another was lighting on a pier. Still there. Process has hardly changed. I think we aimed to get it sealed much quicker than your demo especially working in the cold or outdoors, but you were giving a detailed explanation.
Brilliant demonstration. Ages since I have had a go at this so actually a very good refresher!
Thanks Mark 💕🦾💕
Ahhh brings back memories of college. I enjoyed doing it, shame I’ve not used it since. Surprisingly, I remember every bit of the process, even the tips you gave and I only had to colour sleeve one of the two conductors back then lol
Thanks for the great comment. 👍
Always found it so satisfying making a pyro end off!
Could have used this a couple of weeks ago. Congratulations on 500 videos
Sorry Craig - however it’s now available forever
I miss working with this stuff 😁
Vibration loops on pump feeds are fun !
😁👍
Well done 👏🏻 you just saved me from big hassle. I appreciate this! Thank you ever much.
Your an outstanding instructor. You are doing a really amazing job I have to say
WOW thanks for the support Tyler 👍🏻
So many memories, can smell that compound. Yes always short the cables with pliers after testing, found that out the hard way, but I never bent my cables round. Just quickly touching the jaws of the pliers to the pot and cores at the same time was faster. Really miss that this cable isn't used much these days.
Strip and pot a 3 core and a 4 core pyro for your students cheers
The other thing was terminating the SY flex is it not better when you strip back the steel wire for the earth you strip it longer wrap the wire right round the gland then twist the wires together so they can't fall out the washers
the shroud would still go on and cover the little twisted knot that would save pushing fallen out wire in with a knife or screwdriver as the twisted knot would hold wire in place when you tighten locknut onto gland. Cheers
I know this is short notice, but could you quickly create a video of you connecting a cable to a consumer unit and setting up a one-way lighting circuit? I have an exam on this on Tuesday, and I would very much appreciate it if you could do this before then.
Great stuff 👍 really interesting to see this done - it was talked about on my Domestic Installer course last week but not demonstrated. Thanks!
No problem thanks for commenting 👍
Great video for newcomers to m.i.c.c cable or Pyro which was the manufacturer name that we mainly used. One thing you didn't mention, the plastic seals usually come with 3 indentations around the edge and you would line up the crimping tool with these indentations before crimping the pot. The crimper has 3 spikes on the aluminum flat plate of the cimper which indent the seal into the pot and stop the seal rocking. Maybe your seal did not come with the indentations. All in all a very good presentation.
Thanks alot, I am using your videos alot, very very professional presentaion
Thanks 👍🏻
Just a tip, cut appropriately a 3rd off the compound stick you are using with a knife and put the rest away that way there is less chance of contamination from fingers to the bit you don't use and it will keep it in its paper better with less mess.
Nice tip 👍
TBH I used to do hundreds of these (for the Electricity Board) ..... As long as you close the wrap on the unused compond and don't kick it about on the floor it will be fine! The opposite end may pick up some crud from the workplace, but you never use it all anyway!
excellent educational video, as always. Funny to see all the types of cable and time consuming cable glands you guys are using in UK, I know for sure our installs in EU are safe and reliable too without them :) keep up the good work!
Thanks 👍
Great teacher.
The only special tools You need are a crimper and a ringing tool
A big flat screwdriver or tommy bar and side cutter. To strip the copper sheath
On big pyros, if the pot does not fit,don't panic, file gently around the ringed end and the pot will slide on!
Practice makes perfect
Great message Steve 👍
Love using micc, bare cable installed properly can look amazing. And I've never had an end go down.
Those were the days using pyro , most pubs had them fire Alarms .. etc as a apprentice in 1973 .. many sparks today never used it some cannot use it .. it’s been replaced these days I know as I head in to retirement .. and tell my nephew. Who is also a spark my only computer was a pencil , a sharpener , and rubber ... a nd a note pad ...with memories of my teacher saying do not be a jack of trades , but a master of one .....
Thanks for commenting Ian 👍
Fantastic work Gaz
Great video, glad this is still being taught and on assessments, I think a nice MICC installation can be quite the work of art. I learned to do this in my Merchant Navy ETO training. I do recall wondering (after the 2rd one I made off failed an IR test), why don't they have short 'legs' on the inside of the cap too to help keep the conductors separated.
Great video. The potting tools I’ve used in the past have screwed on to the gland body, insuring a straight fitting pot…
I've installed miles of the stuff, I agree it's a work of art..
Excellent presentation !
An amazing video Gaz 👍
Ah! That's where I've been going wrong, I didn't lubricate my outer sheath and keep a tight grip on the gland before I used the stripper. 😮😮😮😮
Lovely vids as always
Thanks 👍🏻
Jesus, could nobody invent a better solution than that?
What type of work needs micc conductors?
I was taught to clean the magnesium oxide off the conductors before putting the pot on to illiminate tracking. Plus look closely down the pot because on a few occasions there will be a brass slither from the internal thread that then sits across the conductors. Quite often you need a torch to check. Pyrotenix brand were worst for this. Not using rpsl?
The best cable EVER!
Thanks sir
Always hated terminating MICC when a neutral bar was at the bottom of a big metalclad dist board, and the live conductor only had to be connected to the red (brown) phase.
Great point 👍🏻
Fantastic video, WMC are delighted we were able to supply the accessories for the demonstration. We would be interested in using this on our own training seminars. Who would we need to contact for further discussions please?
excellent
Thanks
What’s the purpose of this cable?
Fire resistant 👍🏻
How can I eliminate the moisture inside the cable?
Always had the two cables touching.. Hated the stuff.
I must be sad I love MICC cable 👍
Micc cable glanding all materials name
What a faff lol glad that’s all done away with!!
You have to make off MICC cable as part of your apprenticeship qualification 👍🏻
good sir see the my chanel and micc cable gland
I love MICC cable 👍🏻