I love that you are sharing your adventure. I’m doing a renovation too but I am too self conscious to share my videos. Most of what I do involves sitting with a stupid look on my face as I think about what to do next.
@@Jay_Schmidt , just seeing this for the first time. Having to deal with wet soil in south Louisiana. Learning a lot from you & your team. Thank you so very much!
@jayschmidt I am dealing with rotten foundation beams & subfloors. We will also need to deal with getting deeper, more accessible crawlspace area. Two bathrooms will need to be redone & washer/dryer. We can redo them watching you all.
The company is the most helpful part. working alone make me more prone to "taking a break" when things get hard. You can do it! Maybe have a friend over and offer them drinks just to talk to you while you work haha.
Doing the same thing to my 1870s house, but I have four rooms worth to dig out. Some places I found the dirt was up into the joists. Other places it ranges from 8 to 12 inches below the joists. Trying to get my crawl space at least 18 inches below the joists in the key areas, water lines and drains. It's not a fun job and the dust 100+ year old dirt kicks up is pretty bad.
Yeah! That's a tough job. A lot of hard work to loosen then remove the dirt. I got the kitchen where you at least crawl under it in a reasonable way. A grown adult wouldn't have been able to do maintenance otherwise. Last I checked, child labor wasn't an acceptable solution either 😆 Yeah, that old dirt that drifts under the house is so fine it's amazing.
Could I possibly use this method (going through the subfloor) to make repairs to the small area where the floor is sagging? Thereby leaving appliances in a nearby kitchen in place...do you think that's possible?
That really depends on why the floor is sagging. It could be a foundation, beam, joist, or subfloor issue. The cause of the problem will dictate the cure
I replaced the damaged joists with new 2x6, then I found a flooring dealer who could get me new oak 3/4 × 3 1/2 planks. I'll have that in an upcoming episode 😅.
@@Jay_Schmidt excited to see it. My house in oregon is from 50s and super out of level. I stuck my head in the crawlspace and said nope. Im in the process of digging it out.
I have been debating on doing this once I discovered access to my craw space 2 years after we had an inspection and signed for our home built in 1900 . Trying to see if it is worth the effort . Found your video and curious if you and a your family were living in the house while you doing this? That is one of the biggest issues stopping me although I can only dream of having more space and what it could become. How did yours turn out?
I wasn't living in it at the time. It was worth it for me becuase I only needed to do one section of the house and needed to redo the flooring, plumbing, and get access to some damaged joists. If you're only trying to dig it out so it's, or if you have a larger area, more accessible I may consider a different method.
Anyone needing to pull a lot of nails like the ones left when he breaks out the boards around them... get yourself a set of 12 to 18" end nippers. Use a flat pry bar end to protect the beam surface, grab the nail with the nippers (easier to grab straight on, if the nail is bent to the side at a bit of an angle, so tap it over a little with the nippers, if it's not,) then squeeze lightly and pry, rocking the curved head of the nippers down against the flat of the pry bar on the beam.
@@Jay_Schmidt - I was working for a customer doing some yard cleanup, alongside a contractor who was replacing a deck, and he showed me. It is very controlled, and works excellently without the knuckle banging and projectile nails that can happen using a flat bar or other lower leverage prying tool, and brute force. Also, regular size end nippers with a flat trim bar, or putty knife to protect the surface, are great for pulling finish nails from the wall or casing after pulling trim. Also for pulling the nails that stay in the trim, through the back side, for trim you want to reuse.
The joists are at a 90 | The subfloors are at a 45 / and the finished floor is at 0 _. this provides the most lateral stability and keep the seams from lining up and creating wavy or uneven floors.
The kitchen wasn't bouncy, but I needed to level it and do plumbing. There wasn't enough room to crawl under it. When I measured, it was only abut 6" from joists to dirt.
@@Jay_Schmidt the 2x6 joists just seem too small to span that distance. I am buying a house with the same condition crawl space, interesting how you worked from the top. Thanks for sharing.
@@pattyorourke462 the joists weren't very substantial so when I put it back together I sistered another 2x6 beside the old ones. I did it in one of the layer videos. With a new plywood floor on top it is the most solid room in the house
One reason you have multiple points of exit for plumbing, is sometimes some drains go to a "dry-well". You need not fill up your septic tank (before it went to the public sewer), with water from your laundry machine, or even bathtub. When the conversion happened to public water, their might still be some dry-well usage. In days of old, I've seen women dig the dirt out of the dry-well for use in the garden, etc. clearly, with todays chemical fear, we dont do this.
That's an interesting note. I didn't know that. What I think I concluded was that it was easier to plumb 2 drains to the cesspool, which was located between the two runs, than to tie it together under the house. This is pure speculation. I may have to ask neighbors if they had dry wells on their lots.
You aint seen mine. I literally have to turn my head on its side to get below some joists. Others are so low I literally can't fit under. Maybe 6" of space or less.
@@johnjingleheimersmith9259 I know I should be sympathetic but it's actually rather encouraging to know that, as bad as I have it, others have it worse. Does that make me a horrible person?
I love that you are sharing your adventure. I’m doing a renovation too but I am too self conscious to share my videos. Most of what I do involves sitting with a stupid look on my face as I think about what to do next.
I do the same thing. If you need someone to look stupid with you, hit me up.
@@Jay_Schmidt , just seeing this for the first time. Having to deal with wet soil in south Louisiana. Learning a lot from you & your team. Thank you so very much!
@jayschmidt I am dealing with rotten foundation beams & subfloors. We will also need to deal with getting deeper, more accessible crawlspace area. Two bathrooms will need to be redone & washer/dryer. We can redo them watching you all.
Thank you for sharing!!
I do the same thing. I don't have a supervisor standing around telling me how to do it. 😂
Best of luck, you have some brutal work ahead of you ! We wish you the best
yardwork in your kitchen. hilarious. major props. lucky you have a helper, im doing this alone
The company is the most helpful part. working alone make me more prone to "taking a break" when things get hard. You can do it! Maybe have a friend over and offer them drinks just to talk to you while you work haha.
Doing the same thing to my 1870s house, but I have four rooms worth to dig out. Some places I found the dirt was up into the joists. Other places it ranges from 8 to 12 inches below the joists. Trying to get my crawl space at least 18 inches below the joists in the key areas, water lines and drains. It's not a fun job and the dust 100+ year old dirt kicks up is pretty bad.
Yeah! That's a tough job. A lot of hard work to loosen then remove the dirt. I got the kitchen where you at least crawl under it in a reasonable way. A grown adult wouldn't have been able to do maintenance otherwise. Last I checked, child labor wasn't an acceptable solution either 😆
Yeah, that old dirt that drifts under the house is so fine it's amazing.
Awesome if I keep watching maybe I'll start soon
I know the feeling 😂
Looking good! ❤️
I was thinking the same thing 😋
Gaaaaay
Could I possibly use this method (going through the subfloor) to make repairs to the small area where the floor is sagging? Thereby leaving appliances in a nearby kitchen in place...do you think that's possible?
That really depends on why the floor is sagging. It could be a foundation, beam, joist, or subfloor issue. The cause of the problem will dictate the cure
I DON'T KNOW
WHAT DO YOU USED TO RECORD THE VIDEO
BUT LOOKS LIKE H.D VIDEO
GOOD JOB ,👍
WAITING FOR MORE !!
My phone, mostly 😅
@@Jay_Schmidt THANK YOU!!!
what did you end up using to replace the damaged termite plank floor?
I replaced the damaged joists with new 2x6, then I found a flooring dealer who could get me new oak 3/4 × 3 1/2 planks. I'll have that in an upcoming episode 😅.
@@Jay_Schmidt excited to see it. My house in oregon is from 50s and super out of level. I stuck my head in the crawlspace and said nope. Im in the process of digging it out.
I have been debating on doing this once I discovered access to my craw space 2 years after we had an inspection and signed for our home built in 1900 . Trying to see if it is worth the effort . Found your video and curious if you and a your family were living in the house while you doing this? That is one of the biggest issues stopping me although I can only dream of having more space and what it could become. How did yours turn out?
I wasn't living in it at the time. It was worth it for me becuase I only needed to do one section of the house and needed to redo the flooring, plumbing, and get access to some damaged joists. If you're only trying to dig it out so it's, or if you have a larger area, more accessible I may consider a different method.
Anyone needing to pull a lot of nails like the ones left when he breaks out the boards around them... get yourself a set of 12 to 18" end nippers. Use a flat pry bar end to protect the beam surface, grab the nail with the nippers (easier to grab straight on, if the nail is bent to the side at a bit of an angle, so tap it over a little with the nippers, if it's not,) then squeeze lightly and pry, rocking the curved head of the nippers down against the flat of the pry bar on the beam.
Good notes for next time
@@Jay_Schmidt - I was working for a customer doing some yard cleanup, alongside a contractor who was replacing a deck, and he showed me. It is very controlled, and works excellently without the knuckle banging and projectile nails that can happen using a flat bar or other lower leverage prying tool, and brute force.
Also, regular size end nippers with a flat trim bar, or putty knife to protect the surface, are great for pulling finish nails from the wall or casing after pulling trim. Also for pulling the nails that stay in the trim, through the back side, for trim you want to reuse.
I'm a little OCD, I would have been removing those exposed nails as I went so I wouldn't fall on them as I worked.
why are the floors sideways not straight up and down
The joists are at a 90 | The subfloors are at a 45 / and the finished floor is at 0 _.
this provides the most lateral stability and keep the seams from lining up and creating wavy or uneven floors.
Tip. Get a Jack hammer with a shovel bit. You will never shovel the same again.
Noted. I hope I never need to use that tip haha
Bouncy floor?
The kitchen wasn't bouncy, but I needed to level it and do plumbing. There wasn't enough room to crawl under it. When I measured, it was only abut 6" from joists to dirt.
@@Jay_Schmidt the 2x6 joists just seem too small to span that distance. I am buying a house with the same condition crawl space, interesting how you worked from the top. Thanks for sharing.
@@pattyorourke462 the joists weren't very substantial so when I put it back together I sistered another 2x6 beside the old ones. I did it in one of the layer videos. With a new plywood floor on top it is the most solid room in the house
One reason you have multiple points of exit for plumbing, is sometimes some drains go to a "dry-well". You need not fill up your septic tank (before it went to the public sewer), with water from your laundry machine, or even bathtub. When the conversion happened to public water, their might still be some dry-well usage. In days of old, I've seen women dig the dirt out of the dry-well for use in the garden, etc. clearly, with todays chemical fear, we dont do this.
That's an interesting note. I didn't know that. What I think I concluded was that it was easier to plumb 2 drains to the cesspool, which was located between the two runs, than to tie it together under the house. This is pure speculation. I may have to ask neighbors if they had dry wells on their lots.
Oh wow!!
That's not your normal "honey-do" list item 😂
That’s the shallowest crawl space I’ve ever seen.
Yeah. It's not a fun place to be! I've had many expeditions under there crawling around
You aint seen mine. I literally have to turn my head on its side to get below some joists. Others are so low I literally can't fit under. Maybe 6" of space or less.
@@johnjingleheimersmith9259
I know I should be sympathetic but it's actually rather encouraging to know that, as bad as I have it, others have it worse. Does that make me a horrible person?
If it does, then we are in the same boat 😬
I bet it’s a big boat.
1x isn’t hard to snap