Great video, I wasn't aware of the vacuum lines being so important. For those who might look to replace them as well, these are the part numbers: MLH10026: ECU to fuel trap. MLH10022: Fitted from inlet manifold to fuel trap. MLH10022: ECU to fuel trap. PHP10027: Air box underside to airbox hot air control valve. NPC10001: Fuel trap.
How I wish I had found this video sooner! Great introduction for SPi owners. More troubleshooting tutorials would be most appreciated! Would love to see a more advanced PART 2 that covers the stepper assembly, the hedgehog and the injection assembly. Patreon on its way.
My ‘96 Cooper SPi started to run very rich, i have to clean spark plugs every 50km. I’ll check vacuum lines. Mechs tried to stole a boat of money changing almost everything under the bonnet. Thank you!
Great Video, just purchased an SPI that won't idle correctly, this will allow me to check all those important points you've highlighted - Keep up the good work!
In the last six months I’ve had all of these problems on my 93 rover. I didn’t know why. 30 minutes and 60 dollars later. My lights, my vacuum tubes’ and fuse were replaced and my car was running again. Save 15% by watching stevesonmotorco 😂🙏
Phillip, I really appreciate your videos and have learned a lot on Classic Minis. I am looking to purchase a Classic and have been studying the pros and cos of owning one. I did have a new MINI which I loved a lot, however, my significant other made me get rid of it in place of a Range Rover. I loved my MINI, however, happy wife, happy life. Mahalo again for your videos. I do plan to visit your shop once I get the Classic (maybe??).
All good recommendations - enjoying all the videos. The vacuum pipes were the first things I replaced on getting my SPI, although the replacements ones I got the end caps were quite hard plastic and difficult to fit. Dropping them in a cup of boiling water and a little washing up liquid on the unions makes them much easier to fit. I added an extra engine earth strap because the battery wasn't getting charged properly. Also mid range acceleration kept stuttering. This was a fuelling problem and looking at the fuel filter I think it was the original item from 25yrs ago. A replacement fuel filter solved my mid range acceleration problem and well worth replacing on a regular basis.
Short and comprehensive. Very useful. Would you be able to show how to use a scan tool to diagnose the ECU ? What would be a good scan tool for DIYers ?
1:08 you mention that there are four vacuum lines. Then you show to fuel catch, with the two lines that connect to it. Unfortunately do you not show where the other two lines are located on the engine. Can you please help me find those?
I am also missing the ''tip'' to check the connector of the crank shaft sensor. (blue connector close to the starter) They get oxidized and give also really weird readings.
Great video! Love the whole series detoured, keep those up! Need a favor, you tech stuff is so detailed, tear down and rebuild of a SU4 carb? Tore mine down a put back together, not sure it’s right. Aloha from Hawai’i!
You should mention the inertia switch that won’t let start the mini after working on it and shake it (jack up or so) sometime and the fuel pump ground next the rear left tailight ;) .
@@adrianll8289 Yes, I got 2 meters of this to cover all the vacuum lines except for the one on the airbox: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07F3RW9BX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi, i own a classic mini (Japanese 1999 latter) with an A series spi 1275 engine (efi) with a automatic transmission. unmodified completely stock other than a K&N filter. Idle seems to be ok but with some load can hear a crackling noise. Looks to me as a timing issue after watching the video on engine timing and thanks for shearing that. My mechanic told me that the factory ecu does not allow any changes. The stuff covered in this video is ok except for the electrical part which was not touched and i think not relevant. Any ideas?
Only base timing can be set on your model of mini, but you still might want to check out our guide to setting timing th-cam.com/video/Yb6qu2le0ys/w-d-xo.html
Just picked up a cheap spi cooper.. got me the 120 miles home but clearly not happy.. new vacuum lines, HT leads ams spark plugs.. hey presto! As good as new, she flies once more
Hi Steve. Great video. But where is the temperature sensor is connected to? We have a Classic Mini British Open. The temperature gauge in the binnacle is not working. We had the temperature sensor replaced but still no reading. Best regards from Denmark.
Bit late but I've just had the same problem and it turned out to be a blocked pipe on the thermostat housing stopping coolant flow to the sensor in the manifold.
Hey thanks for the helpful tips and information you have been giving to about the spi mini,I have a friend who owns one and he doesn't know much about the engine but the engine is not accelerating at all it starts easily but it sputters alot when you depress the accelerator, I heard from the video that the engine module has a built in map sensor but I'm not sure if that's the problem, and do these cars have a diagnostic port? Can you help us out?
They do! Sorry, can't help too much with remote diagnostics. But I recommend you head to the mini forums, learn how to do basic checks, and search for threads where people have had similar conditions and what others recommend to look at.
Great video again! I replaced my O2 sensor and found out the throttle lever was stuck at the fire wall. These minis are hard to diagnose. Anyone know where I can buy a manual??
Is there a relay on the headlights in the SPI? I've recently added a relay to my Jeep XJ headlights and there is a massive improvement, wanted to do the same upgrade in my mini.
No there isn't a relay as standard. I had the headlamp switch overload and melt a little. Have now replaced the switch and a relay to negate a repeat occurrence! The SPi is a great package just with a few extra things to look out for and maintain in addition to 'the usual' mini foibles 😎
Hi I have mini sports pack, has been stored for over 12 months, came to start it and it started up, switched it off then went back to it now won't start, and the fuel gauge now not working, replaced immobiliser fobe battery,, brand new fuel , there is spark to plugs but plugs dry can you advise cheers steve uk
Hi Steve, it's difficult to get enough information to get at the real problem. I'd recommend trying to get help from the mini forums. But sounds like you're on the right track by diagnosing that you have spark and no fuel. Next steps probably involve investigating the fuel pump. Does it turn on? If not, why? Check connections, power sources for power, grounds. Does the ecu control it? If it does turn on, how's your fuel filter? Etc.
Has anyone sourced a lambda sensor that fits a 1991 1.3L Rover Mini? I bought one from minispares and the bore in my exhaust manifold is too small to fit the oxygen sensor.
Got one off of Ebay that looked like it might work, and holy smokes it did! This is the part I got strangely off of amazon and came from eastern Europe, Lambda Sensor compatible with ROVER LAND ROVER 100 / Metro Convertible MHK10004
In my opinion this video is to short and not very helpful... You forgot the whole injection unit. The hedgehog, the stepper potentiometer, etc.... Vacuum pipes and fuses are just the basics. Work on it.....
Great video, I wasn't aware of the vacuum lines being so important.
For those who might look to replace them as well, these are the part numbers:
MLH10026: ECU to fuel trap.
MLH10022: Fitted from inlet manifold to fuel trap.
MLH10022: ECU to fuel trap.
PHP10027: Air box underside to airbox hot air control valve.
NPC10001: Fuel trap.
How I wish I had found this video sooner! Great introduction for SPi owners. More troubleshooting tutorials would be most appreciated! Would love to see a more advanced PART 2 that covers the stepper assembly, the hedgehog and the injection assembly.
Patreon on its way.
I bought a mini spi two days ago, you have a new subscriber, I'm from Costa Rica and here there are only about 20 or less mini cooper classics
Amazing!! Please keep these coming! Been owning an SPI mini for over 5 years now and people really need to get to know these tips!
One of my favourite mini channels, good clear explanations, just what we enthusiastic mini owner's need 👍😁
Thanks 👍
My ‘96 Cooper SPi started to run very rich, i have to clean spark plugs every 50km. I’ll check vacuum lines. Mechs tried to stole a boat of money changing almost everything under the bonnet. Thank you!
I don't even have a Mini anymore, let alone an SPI, but watched anyway as I love your videos.
Great Video, just purchased an SPI that won't idle correctly, this will allow me to check all those important points you've highlighted - Keep up the good work!
Great to hear and good luck sorting the issue!
Man I wish there were more videos like this for SPIs. Thank you. Would appreciate more on detailed videos on SPIs 😅
In the last six months I’ve had all of these problems on my 93 rover. I didn’t know why. 30 minutes and 60 dollars later. My lights, my vacuum tubes’ and fuse were replaced and my car was running again. Save 15% by watching stevesonmotorco 😂🙏
Phillip, I really appreciate your videos and have learned a lot on Classic Minis. I am looking to purchase a Classic and have been studying the pros and cos of owning one. I did have a new MINI which I loved a lot, however, my significant other made me get rid of it in place of a Range Rover. I loved my MINI, however, happy wife, happy life. Mahalo again for your videos. I do plan to visit your shop once I get the Classic (maybe??).
All good recommendations - enjoying all the videos. The vacuum pipes were the first things I replaced on getting my SPI, although the replacements ones I got the end caps were quite hard plastic and difficult to fit. Dropping them in a cup of boiling water and a little washing up liquid on the unions makes them much easier to fit. I added an extra engine earth strap because the battery wasn't getting charged properly. Also mid range acceleration kept stuttering. This was a fuelling problem and looking at the fuel filter I think it was the original item from 25yrs ago. A replacement fuel filter solved my mid range acceleration problem and well worth replacing on a regular basis.
As a Spi owner: thanks for doing this video !
Short and comprehensive. Very useful. Would you be able to show how to use a scan tool to diagnose the ECU ? What would be a good scan tool for DIYers ?
It's great how the finger on a stick always seems to make an apperence :)
This is good, short and straight to the point🥰
1:08 you mention that there are four vacuum lines. Then you show to fuel catch, with the two lines that connect to it. Unfortunately do you not show where the other two lines are located on the engine. Can you please help me find those?
I am also missing the ''tip'' to check the connector of the crank shaft sensor. (blue connector close to the starter) They get oxidized and give also really weird readings.
Great video! Love the whole series detoured, keep those up! Need a favor, you tech stuff is so detailed, tear down and rebuild of a SU4 carb? Tore mine down a put back together, not sure it’s right. Aloha from Hawai’i!
Really enjoy these videos. Keep em coming!
You should mention the inertia switch that won’t let start the mini after working on it and shake it (jack up or so) sometime and the fuel pump ground next the rear left tailight ;) .
a super video loads of tips for my spi mini cooper
Try using 3mm silicone vacuum lines as a replacement. There's no joints in the line and are much less likely to leak.
3mm is 100% good fit?
@@adrianll8289 Yes, I got 2 meters of this to cover all the vacuum lines except for the one on the airbox:
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07F3RW9BX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
great video and helpful too!
For the fuel trap when you day it shouldbt have any leaks do you mean when you blow in it should yiu have air coming out of other pipe or not?
Would like to see one for mpi Mini’s
Love your videos
Hi, i own a classic mini (Japanese 1999 latter) with an A series spi 1275 engine (efi) with a automatic transmission. unmodified completely stock other than a K&N filter. Idle seems to be ok but with some load can hear a crackling noise. Looks to me as a timing issue after watching the video on engine timing and thanks for shearing that. My mechanic told me that the factory ecu does not allow any changes. The stuff covered in this video is ok except for the electrical part which was not touched and i think not relevant. Any ideas?
Only base timing can be set on your model of mini, but you still might want to check out our guide to setting timing th-cam.com/video/Yb6qu2le0ys/w-d-xo.html
Just picked up a cheap spi cooper.. got me the 120 miles home but clearly not happy.. new vacuum lines, HT leads ams spark plugs.. hey presto! As good as new, she flies once more
Awesome to hear!
Hi Steve. Great video. But where is the temperature sensor is connected to? We have a Classic Mini British Open. The temperature gauge in the binnacle is not working. We had the temperature sensor replaced but still no reading. Best regards from Denmark.
Bit late but I've just had the same problem and it turned out to be a blocked pipe on the thermostat housing stopping coolant flow to the sensor in the manifold.
can you make a video on how to move ecu inside the cabin?
Hi. Thank you very much for your channel. Do you have a video or tutorial of how to service and adjust the HS2 carburetors? I have problems with mine.
Glad you're enjoying it Sergio. It's on the list!
Very helpful.
Thanks a lot
Went through the tips in this video, still having stalling problems... what’s next to diagnose?
Fuel delivery, sensors
Thanks! Will look into it.... fuel seems to be ok... it’s arriving at the injector... will look at the sensors next
Hey thanks for the helpful tips and information you have been giving to about the spi mini,I have a friend who owns one and he doesn't know much about the engine but the engine is not accelerating at all it starts easily but it sputters alot when you depress the accelerator, I heard from the video that the engine module has a built in map sensor but I'm not sure if that's the problem, and do these cars have a diagnostic port? Can you help us out?
They do! Sorry, can't help too much with remote diagnostics. But I recommend you head to the mini forums, learn how to do basic checks, and search for threads where people have had similar conditions and what others recommend to look at.
Did your friend fix this? I'm at my wits' end with my car and, short of replacing the ECU, am out of ideas!
Great video again! I replaced my O2 sensor and found out the throttle lever was stuck at the fire wall. These minis are hard to diagnose. Anyone know where I can buy a manual??
Darick,manuals are available from rimmer bros in the UK in printed format and disc www.rimmerbros.co.uk
After engine out my mini is ideling on 3k rpm. Any ideas? Vacuum lines are ok
Is there a relay on the headlights in the SPI? I've recently added a relay to my Jeep XJ headlights and there is a massive improvement, wanted to do the same upgrade in my mini.
No there isn't a relay as standard.
I had the headlamp switch overload and melt a little. Have now replaced the switch and a relay to negate a repeat occurrence! The SPi is a great package just with a few extra things to look out for and maintain in addition to 'the usual' mini foibles 😎
Do you have anything on ligths? MY flashers not working on mini rover 92
There are many posts about that issue on mini forums. I'd recommend starting there.
Hi I have mini sports pack, has been stored for over 12 months, came to start it and it started up, switched it off then went back to it now won't start, and the fuel gauge now not working, replaced immobiliser fobe battery,, brand new fuel , there is spark to plugs but plugs dry can you advise cheers steve uk
Hi Steve, it's difficult to get enough information to get at the real problem. I'd recommend trying to get help from the mini forums. But sounds like you're on the right track by diagnosing that you have spark and no fuel. Next steps probably involve investigating the fuel pump. Does it turn on? If not, why? Check connections, power sources for power, grounds. Does the ecu control it? If it does turn on, how's your fuel filter? Etc.
@@Stevestonmotorco hi thanks for reply , power to pump but not buzzing, fuel gauge not working either, so ordered new pump and sender unit.
Has anyone sourced a lambda sensor that fits a 1991 1.3L Rover Mini? I bought one from minispares and the bore in my exhaust manifold is too small to fit the oxygen sensor.
Got one off of Ebay that looked like it might work, and holy smokes it did! This is the part I got strangely off of amazon and came from eastern Europe, Lambda Sensor compatible with ROVER LAND ROVER 100 / Metro Convertible MHK10004
bravo!!!
Bonjour je recherche un injecteur pour ma mini open british spi de 1995
Merci par avance
can anyone point me in the direction to an aftermarket ECU for a 1995 mini sprite, is it even possible?
Any aftermarket programmable ECU can be made to work with wiring and a tune.
Hazard switch? Or just lights rocker switch?
The hazard switch. Of course the headlamp rocker switch can melt too.
indicators & hazards are routed through the hazard switch, not the headlights.
In my opinion this video is to short and not very helpful...
You forgot the whole injection unit. The hedgehog, the stepper potentiometer, etc....
Vacuum pipes and fuses are just the basics.
Work on it.....
Even if it's just the basics, it can be really useful for those that are just starting to get into the mini scene, like me.
It's a good starting point. You can't expect everything from one video.