@@trumpetflowerII i'm sure you were on your way to being cultivating when you got so emotionally dysregulated as to call someone a total fool. i'm interested to hear what you meant to say instead
Ich mühte kein wideo sehen den brenholz kan ich auch in mein Garten sehen. So schtark beschnitene baum ohne Zweigen kann nur kaputtgehen wenn es will oder nicht. Für mich sind die zwei Garten Anarchisten.
@@joyfulparadise No you can't. The tree is dead very likely. If the tree was strong enough, then it looks like broom - too many useless branches draining energy from the tree.
If it were successful, I think he would for sure have an update. Almost a guarantee that these trees are dead and if they survived, like one person said, they look like a messy broom.
As a professional tree tree climber and arborist of 10 years this video really hurts to watch lol that’s not pruning I highly recommend you familiarize yourself with ANSI 300 pruning standards.I also hope people watching this don’t go out in there yard and hack there trees like this thinking its good idea you did nothing but negatively set back that tree for years. all your gonna get now is weakly attached epicormic growth along with lots of decay. cutting off a branch collar like that means no compartmentalization of the wound it will never seal itself now there’s a big difference in reducing a trees crown and indiscriminately chopping it back to nothing. A limb should always be brought back to a lateral atleast 1/3rd the diameter of the limb being removed
And when it comes to apple trees they produce fruit off of 2-3 year old fruits spurs if you want production of more fruit the previous years shoots should be taken back to a fruit bud instead of all the energy going to leaf and woody material production
Yep. The title of this video should be "How Not to Prune a Tree of Any Species". When I saw him cutting off parts of limbs and the bark stripping back - as well as cutting through the collars or even flush cutting, I lost all confidence that the had any idea about what he was doing. Just because he has been hacking at trees for decades does not mean he has been doing it correctly. Didn't the agricultural researchers decide half a century ago that sealing the wounds did more harm than good, even on large cuts?
I completely agree, the way he treated these trees is absolutely a set back. I brought back some 60 year old paradise apple trees that were completely out of control , by working a year to year project by cutting back a quarter at a time.. we are now in year 3 and the trees are really healthy now and at this point really cut back but it was a slow progression to get there! And they now produce fruit that are worth harvest!
lots of folks really putting this down in the comments also, however the trees came back wonderfully and will fruit this coming season. This has been around 1 year ago so we'll be into the second growing season. Sometimes you've just gotta take them way way back
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer When you make cuts that do not heal You are killing the tree slowly. Make a video of these trees and how the rubberized undercoating did on those huge stubs you made. Then tell is again that you cannot hurt the tree and that you are ensuring the survival by hacking away as you did . Just show the trees and how they healed
@@BarneyGimble the owner was going to CUT the ENTIRE TREE DOWN. I was at similar point with my peach tree. I DONT want to deal with all those tiny crappy peaches. Cutting it way back, covered the giant exposed wood to keep bugs out. Still might do away totally with that tree in a few years. But my grass is getting more light which is what I want.
From my reading, about 20% of the tree pruning works with cutting out damaged or infected limbs. I'm anxious to see how your 'buck horning' works. Totally agree with 'opening the tree up' so it can get sun inside the tree. An undercut is good so the bark doesn't tear is a good rule of thumb,, but you probably already know that. Good luck.
I've done the same thing to some neglected apple trees but left half the branches until the following year and then trimmed it entirely back. The tree seems to grow back better this way.
If you are getting a lot of small fruit then you should trim off or prune off 1/2 of the flowers/buds before they start forming fruit. That way the tree puts all its energy into the remaining fruit. As others have said if you make an under cut on the limbs you will not get the bark tearing like you did.
I did this to a plum that wasn’t producing and was growing 100% vertical with NO side branches. I shared my pics of a fruit tree page and they all verbally assaulted me lol Whatever… I’m glad I did what I did. It’s now growing a lower canopy with side branches. Maybe it will produce again in the future.
A third generation orchardist, I know what this tree looks like, and - what it could have looked like.. Hacks like this discourage people from planting fruit trees. But it’s near impossible to find a ‘fine pruner’ with 40+ years experience…
used the same techniques on my trees in Hawaii, guava, lychee, mango, plumeria, dragon fruit. same story as what you did. I was raised in western states orchard country and pruning trees was not explained it was just taught by example. your explanation is really good. I learned some of the whys from your video. In Alaska I don't have to worry about fruit trees. for some reason... Ha
My 5 year old son heard me watching this and ran over to see, he watched the whole thing with me then looked at me and said "daddy can we get apple trees!?!" Sure buddy, at least I can look back on this video to see how to prune them when the time comes lol. Great work Josh
The apples were small because you didn't thin them out early Spring. Videos show that apple blossoms have 5 ro 6 blooms per cluster. When the apples are just developing you need to leave about 2 apples per cluster. With less apples for the tree to support the apples will be bigger.
Josh sound accurate advice. We used to grow and harvest Apple, peach, and Bartlett pear trees. Our yields and quality were amazing. We never sprayed with chemicals. Our humming birds, robins, nuthatches, finches, dragonflies, and butterflies loved them.
Great video. Shall be doing the same to my trees this Winter! One thing, when cutting a large limb at an angle, why don’t you make a cut on the underside, then top cut down to the undercut, that way when you just cut from the top you won’t get the limb tearing bark of the underside.
This “second” episode was informative and a testament to being a great neighbor. Assisting a neighbor is rewarding to your neighbor AND yourself! Being good to others lightens your heart!
@@BarneyGimble It doesn’t matter. As I said, being good or doing good is rewarding to both the giver and receiver. Neither one is a sole recipient. Centuries of collective cooperation and assistance in unison for the betterment of the collection or an individual has proven that. From building a barrier to ward off tigers or to educate our offspring, taking a moment to assist a neighbor in need brings health to the giver more than the receiver!
@@BarneyGimble Claims are just that, Claims! Unless I was shown an Arborist related degree or proof of success as a certified Arborist, I would respectfully decline his or her help in maintaining my tree or bushes! I hope that you did as well or perhaps you should seek legal advice?
Informative video and TY! Question; can I prune my cherry trees like this at this time? They are 50 years old and I can’t reach the cherries. The birds, chipmunks and raccoons get them every year. I would like to be able to harvest but I don’t have a clue on how to keep these critters from robbing me? Advice greatly appreciated!
Apples are resilient and will benefit from this thorough pruning. They will need to have the regrowth thinned in the autumn. You should leave a half inch on a spur you cut to encourage the tree to heal over. There are special cells at the base of a limb for this purpose.
Apples grow on second year wood. He won’t get apples this year but should flourish the next year. Almost no way around to prune this much. Love your videos
Apples are either ‘tip’ or ‘spur’ bearers; spurs take around 3 years to develop, tips may be sooner.. I doubt anyone even knew what the variety was, or cared. This is not how apple trees should be pruned 😣
I worked for a tree trimmer who does beautiful lacing and he called this mexi cutting because a lot of hispanics do it out here in California. I noticed a lot of the times the trees do not recover and die and if they do recover it looks like hell with all those little shoots coming off the huge cuts.
OUCH! That first cut with the little baby saw made me cringe. The first cut with the Milwaukee just about killed me! Putting a small undercut in the limb will prevent peeling bark below the cut. Even with a pretty thin limb like the first one that was cut, if there is a lot of weight above the cut, it can bend down and peel fibers back below the cut, damaging the tree. There was quite a split on the first limb when you got around to the back side of it to talk about the vigorous spring growth ahead. Another way to prevent splitting is to tie a rope or strap around the limb just under the cut. Thinning flowers can work to get larger fruit, but not all flowers set fruit all the time; so a better bet would be to wait until fruit starts to set and grow, then thin the smaller fruits off of a cluster until you have just 2 or 3 in a cluster...(1 or 2) on a tree with a lot of clusters. If you bury up past the graft point, your tree will revert to the root stock and no longer be the plum you grafted. Bottom line, you will no longer have what you grafted. True though, the dwarfing properties will be negated.
11:42 Josh, allways cut under the branch first before cutting on top of the branch to stop it splitting and peeling as it falls, also - cut further out first to remove some weight before coming in for the finish cut.
📍 TIP: Cut from the bottom up about 1/4 the way through, then top down on these branches. Why? Notice the only top down pulls the bark at the bottom and it dangles? The bark is the protection from infection. That peel/tear at the bottom is inviting infection.
Josh, after watching and learning from you I want to share with you a program I just watched called “Clarkson’s Farm”. It is hilarious and available on the interweb. He’s that “car” guy we all know and loved. Thought if you had a moment you might want to have a chuckle. Enjoy!
Hey Josh, Jim from Wentworth. It is time to get your Martin Poles up into the air. They are close. I have all of mine up right now. I have a 106 spaces for mine. I had 85 pair last year, hope to fill up this year.
I have had a few apple and pear trees that I have had for about 6 years some look like a single stick from deer. I once got 2 apples that's it. Do you think I should restart?
When I re-scaffold a tree like this sometimes I leave one branch alone to act as a nurse branch to help the tree survive the drastic cuts. When the new growth is a few feet long (or ideally a year later) you cut off the limb you left alone when the main cuts were done. Ideally you would cut a third of branches down to chest height each year over 3 years but sometimes it is not possible. Another point worth mentioning is the timing of the cutting. If you cut like this in early spring the tree will probably survive. If you cut like this in July the tree may die due to lack of energy left in the roots to initiate new growth.
I moved to a new house that had an orchard of different fruit trees and some are really tall that I wanted to cut back to an easier maintaining and picking height. So glad I didn’t butcher them like this guy. I’m on yr 1 of what I’m anticipating a 3yr process of cutting them back 1/3 at a time.
you think they were "butchered" however now on year 2 after major pruning we'll get fruit. Not sure why you'd wanna put me down for showing you something that worked fantastically....these trees were gonna be cut down if I didn't do this...they now look fantastic. Please don't put other's down my friend.....it simply doesn't bring any value to either of our lives
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer The problem is that nobody has seen any result. When you do this type of cut, the tree has too many roots and no treetop. If the tree had survived (as the chances are less than 50:50 depending on the age and vitality), the tree will produce many water sprouts which are not easy to get rid off.
Hey, Can you please show an update on these trees? I know you're saying they're growing back but we'd really love to see the visual after seeing such a big chop! ❤ This is one of the most thorough and visual videos on TH-cam on pruning a fruit tree, ESPECIALLY a major prune like this. We would like an update 🙏 please Stony Ridge Farmer & Mr Tony!
both trees came back with great foliage last season...I'd expect fruit this season...I'd do an update video but it simply won't get any traction on here so I havn't done a follow up
You said it! This is how hillbillies cut they're trees! That's why they're all dead trees in Arkansas, Oklahoma & Missouri Lol! Not so much of what the horrible weather does to them in these areas!
Dude I've been watching a lot of videos and so far this one has helped me a lot. Some simplified explanation and fast forward through the cutting so you can see overall what you're trying to accomplish. Thank you!
I live in central Oklahoma and i have 6 year old peach tree that is 15-20' tall it has never had any fruit. Can i cut it back now or should i wait till spring. Thanks for your time.
now is not the time to prune trees....prune in summer to cut back, winter for re-growth. I'd suggest a late winter prune so it grows back appropriately...however you may wanna talk to someone with an orchard
I suggest a seal on any limb cut in most cases. Get a fungicide on the tree...if it's blight be sure you clean your pruners/cutters between cuts and between trees. Use alcohol or even brake cleaner will work
Never use sealant unless you are pruning very specific species that the risks of using it are outweighed by likelihood of infection post prune. Which is pretty much just oak wilt susceptible oaks, and elms. Sealant slows the "healing" process and is widely discouraged in the tree industry and won't be used by professionals. It certainly isn't harmless to use. Trees are laregly best left to manage wounds on their own. This type of pruning is typical for fruit trees but topping most deciduous trees will kill them or ruin the branching structure.
I have a couple of pear trees that desperately need this operation performed on them. I didn't have the guts to do it. I was afraid it would be too much. I'll go ahead and get that done soon. Thanks. Oh, and I would like to see a follow-up on there recovery, too, in a few months.
..wouldn’t you like to see ‘a follow up’ before doing that to your pears? Check with a local Extension Service Agent for your county and ask for recommendations on competent fruit tree pruners before doing or having this done..
Yes, that's the only reason I haven't done it yet. I was waiting to see the sequel to this video before doing something so drastic. You speak wisely.@@vf5126
Jan, Feb...depends on the climate where you live. About 1 month before they start to bud out for spring...remember prune in summer to cut back, prune in winter for new growth
Hey Josh thank you for the video you and Tony did a good job and thank you for sharing your valuable learning information that took you thirty years to find out so yes I'm going to send this video to my Gmail that way like you said I always have it but I sure never seen no one from them down that much but you know best because you did it all those years woo🤗👍
yep, in this case we're gonna have to take a bit more. The trees have done fantastic and grew back nicely. They'll fruit again this year. Despite the comments to the contrary all over this video. It worked great and every self proclaimed "arborist" that's insulted this technique has been wrong. This work fantastically...and sometimes we gotta do a very hard prune on a neglected tree like this
Hard pruning is ok just have to do it the right time of year. Also they make proper stuff to put on the cuts instead of truck coating, good job though. Also remember the 3 cut rule to prevent tearing of bark 💪
Just did a major trim on my plum I planted a few years back. It was getting taller than I wanted and last year, it had so much fruit, one branch broke off. But the main reason was the fungus that had taken off everywhere. The only way to get it off was a major pruning. Now I need to treat it with neem and fungicide this winter to see if I can get it under control. Lots of people say to remove it all together for a more resistant type. I planted two plums and two cherries a few years ago and everyone said it would be years before I got fruit. That wasn't the case. I got lots of fruit. One year was heavy, the next year a bit lighter. I've seen a lot of people saying to not tree the wound after pruning. I didn't treat any of mine. I will see next spring what worked.
I use gray latex paint with a brush to seal large cuts. Gray blends well with bark. Not as harsh chemicals as bed liner, I want as little of the inner wood to dry out as possible. Works on ornamental trees too.
It's best to not use anything on them. Especially if you are pruning in the winter-professionals don't even use it on the few tree species it helps prevent disease on during the duration of fall thru winter. Trees are resilient and don't need our help compartmentalizing wounds.
Each cut made should have a bud or branch remaining behind the cut to prevent dead stubs. Large diameter cuts are a challenge to heal properly. Annual pruning can avoid this issue. However, there are times where larger cuts are needed to correct previous neglect.
I have a peach tree from previous house owner, it produces peaches pretty good each year excepf it grows so tall and spread to my neighbors yard I pruned it in 2022 summer it grew back 2023 but no peaches last year, this year grows a lot of peaches but I can tell they are not very good as before and rats ate 30 of them already so I only got one basket of good fruits and it grow so big again because I didnt prune last year. So I cut off most of branches this year like that 😅 will see if I kill it next year
yep....as the video said in the begining...the time of year needs to be appropriate...doing this in summer is very risky...I hope you didn't hurt the tree...I would never trim back a tree this aggressively in summer
Could you please tell me when you recorded this video. Example; October, November, December, etc. etc. and what year. My wife and I are having a discussion about this. It is now December 10, 2023 and I believe that the Apple trees should be pruned now or in the next month or two your opinion would matter greatly.
I love the alligator chainsaw!! It holds both sides of the branch, msking a straight clean cut without peeling the bark off once it wants to fall. Plus this us why you should be cutting from the underside of the branch! 😉
It’s a shame they haven’t come out with a universal battery that would power all of the battery operated equipment. I have stuck with craftsman. We have a weed wackier, drill, leaf blower and a vacuum that use the same battery. I did that just so I could use the same type of battery in all of them.
kinda tough to make that a dedicated video, but I'll tell ya. Both of these trees came back wonderfully in the spring, they both thrived. No fruit this year, but the 2024 season should yield some fruit. This worked fantastically
I saw this the other day, but no plum tree in that video. The heavy pruning will help the tree come back and produce apples next year. The apple grows on second year growth and y’all cut off all of that this year. When you prune in the fall/winter leave some of the prongs to allow the blooming next year. Overall, a good video.
Fruit trees are suppose to be pruned every spring early before sap starts major limbs that are removed should have bandaid put on there is a product made specifically for that Once fruit is set and starts to develop especially apples apricot peach and pears prune /plum trees the green fruit is hand thinned breaking up clusters of fruit rule of thumb spacing from thump to little finger for the larger fruits like apple and peach
Use old motor oil to treat the wounds. It will keep away bacteria and fungii. If the wounds are still wet let them dry for a while before applying. Does the rubberized coating not seal off the wound to much and promote rotting. It doesn't have any "fungicide" in it.
hmmm....show me fungus growing under a car that's been undercoated and I'm sold on old motor oil. This works great my friend...I wouldn't put old motor oil on any tree...this needs to dry, harden and cure..it will eventually fall off or rot away
😊 yah it's not rubber but bitumen tar undercoat? Than it works indeed. I want to do test will dissolving tar/asphalt in a bit gas and mixing it with the old motoroil to make it thicker and tacky. The motoroil works for now fine as it penetrates really deep in stump. No issues with fresh growth in this location being misformed or dying.
Do you have a way I can send you pics of my tree that got topped real bad like you do yours and maybe you have suggestions how I can save it? It’s splitting and the bark is coming off and they left no branches 😢
give it a little time, nature is often the best healer....might take some pix of the damaged areas or infected areas and google the treatment to help the tree
Thanks for the vid, I have approx 400 old pear trees, massive trees smothered with vines, there all alive but the thorn trees and sumak is ridiculous, I inherited my grandpas pace about 15 acres, I'm going to clean all the crap in and around them first, then all the dead and try and bring them back, there about 35 years old
Outch! It hurts... I was thinking that the goal was secretly to change the cultivar by doing crown grafting on each limbs but I think the owner was fed up to pick up apples on the ground. Can we see the tree next summer?
No it didn't hurt them. You can trim a tree any month with an (R) in it, general rule of thumb.
Total fool.
Sucker shoots, yes. Otherwise, not if you want your trees to be the healthiest possible.
@@trumpetflowerII i'm sure you were on your way to being cultivating when you got so emotionally dysregulated as to call someone a total fool. i'm interested to hear what you meant to say instead
You can trim a tree in any month, if you know how .
.this video is an example of butchering a tree
Can u give us an update a year later?
Would love to see an update on these trees to see how they recovered this summer. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, I agree, I would like to see an update as well.
Ich mühte kein wideo sehen den brenholz kan ich auch in mein Garten sehen. So schtark beschnitene baum ohne Zweigen kann nur kaputtgehen wenn es will oder nicht. Für mich sind die zwei Garten Anarchisten.
Same. Can we get an update?
@@joyfulparadise No you can't. The tree is dead very likely. If the tree was strong enough, then it looks like broom - too many useless branches draining energy from the tree.
If it were successful, I think he would for sure have an update. Almost a guarantee that these trees are dead and if they survived, like one person said, they look like a messy broom.
As a professional tree tree climber and arborist of 10 years this video really hurts to watch lol that’s not pruning I highly recommend you familiarize yourself with ANSI 300 pruning standards.I also hope people watching this don’t go out in there yard and hack there trees like this thinking its good idea you did nothing but negatively set back that tree for years. all your gonna get now is weakly attached epicormic growth along with lots of decay. cutting off a branch collar like that means no compartmentalization of the wound it will never seal itself now there’s a big difference in reducing a trees crown and indiscriminately chopping it back to nothing. A limb should always be brought back to a lateral atleast 1/3rd the diameter of the limb being removed
And when it comes to apple trees they produce fruit off of 2-3 year old fruits spurs if you want production of more fruit the previous years shoots should be taken back to a fruit bud instead of all the energy going to leaf and woody material production
Yep. The title of this video should be "How Not to Prune a Tree of Any Species".
When I saw him cutting off parts of limbs and the bark stripping back - as well as cutting through the collars or even flush cutting, I lost all confidence that the had any idea about what he was doing. Just because he has been hacking at trees for decades does not mean he has been doing it correctly.
Didn't the agricultural researchers decide half a century ago that sealing the wounds did more harm than good, even on large cuts?
I completely agree, the way he treated these trees is absolutely a set back. I brought back some 60 year old paradise apple trees that were completely out of control , by working a year to year project by cutting back a quarter at a time.. we are now in year 3 and the trees are really healthy now and at this point really cut back but it was a slow progression to get there! And they now produce fruit that are worth harvest!
If we lose one, no big deal? smh
Thank you for commenting. I almost ruined my pear tree. Can you recommend a book for properly pruning pear and prune trees?
I’m so happy to read all of the people whom see more thought and process could have gone into this trim.
lots of folks really putting this down in the comments also, however the trees came back wonderfully and will fruit this coming season. This has been around 1 year ago so we'll be into the second growing season. Sometimes you've just gotta take them way way back
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer
When you make cuts that do not heal
You are killing the tree slowly.
Make a video of these trees and how the rubberized undercoating did on those huge stubs you made.
Then tell is again that you cannot hurt the tree and that you are ensuring the survival by hacking away as you did .
Just show the trees and how they healed
@@BarneyGimble the owner was going to CUT the ENTIRE TREE DOWN. I was at similar point with my peach tree. I DONT want to deal with all those tiny crappy peaches. Cutting it way back, covered the giant exposed wood to keep bugs out. Still might do away totally with that tree in a few years. But my grass is getting more light which is what I want.
@@ca2129
Maybe killing the tree slowly will help your grass go
Tha is your theory?
@@BarneyGimble My tree isn’t dead. Yes the Bermuda is doing great 👍. The trees will bounce back. Set it back a few years.
Loppers, hand saw and pruning shears are the tools needed for pruning fruit trees
From my reading, about 20% of the tree pruning works with cutting out damaged or infected limbs. I'm anxious to see how your 'buck horning' works. Totally agree with 'opening the tree up' so it can get sun inside the tree. An undercut is good so the bark doesn't tear is a good rule of thumb,, but you probably already know that. Good luck.
I thought the same thing, but it looks like those sloppy cuts were part of what was trimmed off later.
There was no "trimming" in the video, just major amputations. The tree will never fully recover. @@donf3739
same exact method i use to prune!! Works for me! Great video!
I've done the same thing to some neglected apple trees but left half the branches until the following year and then trimmed it entirely back. The tree seems to grow back better this way.
Even if you cut out only 1/3rd of a healthy tree in a year, you are stressing it far more than necessary and slowing its recovery.
yup!
If you are getting a lot of small fruit then you should trim off or prune off 1/2 of the flowers/buds before they start forming fruit. That way the tree puts all its energy into the remaining fruit. As others have said if you make an under cut on the limbs you will not get the bark tearing like you did.
I did this to a plum that wasn’t producing and was growing 100% vertical with NO side branches. I shared my pics of a fruit tree page and they all verbally assaulted me lol
Whatever… I’m glad I did what I did. It’s now growing a lower canopy with side branches. Maybe it will produce again in the future.
A third generation orchardist, I know what this tree looks like, and - what it could have looked like.. Hacks like this discourage people from planting fruit trees. But it’s near impossible to find a ‘fine pruner’ with 40+ years experience…
used the same techniques on my trees in Hawaii, guava, lychee, mango, plumeria, dragon fruit. same story as what you did. I was raised in western states orchard country and pruning trees was not explained it was just taught by example. your explanation is really good. I learned some of the whys from your video. In Alaska I don't have to worry about fruit trees. for some reason... Ha
Good morning Josh , thank you for sharing. I definitely did not know about the grafted trees depth affecting the hight.
It is the root-stock used that affects the height and why modern orchards have such small (but productive) trees.
@@stephaniewilson3955 good afternoon Stephanie thank you so much! This is great to know. Hope your day is going well
My 5 year old son heard me watching this and ran over to see, he watched the whole thing with me then looked at me and said "daddy can we get apple trees!?!" Sure buddy, at least I can look back on this video to see how to prune them when the time comes lol. Great work Josh
Don't do it like this please. It is so wasteful.😢
How not to cut.
The apples were small because you didn't thin them out early Spring. Videos show that apple blossoms have 5 ro 6 blooms per cluster. When the apples are just developing you need to leave about 2 apples per cluster. With less apples for the tree to support the apples will be bigger.
fruit thinning is necessary only if you didn't prune correcly two years old side branches
Josh sound accurate advice. We used to grow and harvest Apple, peach, and Bartlett pear trees. Our yields and quality were amazing. We never sprayed with chemicals. Our humming birds, robins, nuthatches, finches, dragonflies, and butterflies loved them.
Man, you don't know how bad I lived out in the country with good neighbors like ya'll!
Great video. Shall be doing the same to my trees this Winter! One thing, when cutting a large limb at an angle, why don’t you make a cut on the underside, then top cut down to the undercut, that way when you just cut from the top you won’t get the limb tearing bark of the underside.
This “second” episode was informative and a testament to being a great neighbor. Assisting a neighbor is rewarding to your neighbor AND yourself! Being good to others lightens your heart!
I doubt they are still friends .
@@BarneyGimble It doesn’t matter. As I said, being good or doing good is rewarding to both the giver and receiver. Neither one is a sole recipient. Centuries of collective cooperation and assistance in unison for the betterment of the collection or an individual has proven that. From building a barrier to ward off tigers or to educate our offspring, taking a moment to assist a neighbor in need brings health to the giver more than the receiver!
@@stephenreese5921
What do you call a person who claims to help and kills your tree , while calming to be a expert?
A menace and a charlatan
@@BarneyGimble Claims are just that, Claims! Unless I was shown an Arborist related degree or proof of success as a certified Arborist, I would respectfully decline his or her help in maintaining my tree or bushes! I hope that you did as well or perhaps you should seek legal advice?
@@stephenreese5921
I just want to see what the trees in the video look like today
Informative video and TY! Question; can I prune my cherry trees like this at this time? They are 50 years old and I can’t reach the cherries. The birds, chipmunks and raccoons get them every year. I would like to be able to harvest but I don’t have a clue on how to keep these critters from robbing me? Advice greatly appreciated!
Apples are resilient and will benefit from this thorough pruning. They will need to have the regrowth thinned in the autumn. You should leave a half inch on a spur you cut to encourage the tree to heal over. There are special cells at the base of a limb for this purpose.
Apples grow on second year wood. He won’t get apples this year but should flourish the next year. Almost no way around to prune this much. Love your videos
I do half one year then do the other side the next winter. The tree seems to grow back faster that way
Apples are either ‘tip’ or ‘spur’ bearers; spurs take around 3 years to develop, tips may be sooner.. I doubt anyone even knew what the variety was, or cared. This is not how apple trees should be pruned 😣
@@vf5126 yup
Brother, those are Flush-Cuts, please look-up the ANSI A-300 on proper pruning. I am a certified arborist of 34 years.
Thanks for the tip, just an FYI...these trees both came back and look fantastic! No fruit this year but I'm betting next season will be a bumper crop
I worked for a tree trimmer who does beautiful lacing and he called this mexi cutting because a lot of hispanics do it out here in California. I noticed a lot of the times the trees do not recover and die and if they do recover it looks like hell with all those little shoots coming off the huge cuts.
@@StoneyRidgeFarmercan you please do a follow up video of the progress. Thanks.
OUCH! That first cut with the little baby saw made me cringe. The first cut with the Milwaukee just about killed me! Putting a small undercut in the limb will prevent peeling bark below the cut. Even with a pretty thin limb like the first one that was cut, if there is a lot of weight above the cut, it can bend down and peel fibers back below the cut, damaging the tree. There was quite a split on the first limb when you got around to the back side of it to talk about the vigorous spring growth ahead.
Another way to prevent splitting is to tie a rope or strap around the limb just under the cut.
Thinning flowers can work to get larger fruit, but not all flowers set fruit all the time; so a better bet would be to wait until fruit starts to set and grow, then thin the smaller fruits off of a cluster until you have just 2 or 3 in a cluster...(1 or 2) on a tree with a lot of clusters.
If you bury up past the graft point, your tree will revert to the root stock and no longer be the plum you grafted. Bottom line, you will no longer have what you grafted. True though, the dwarfing properties will be negated.
11:42 Josh, allways cut under the branch first before cutting on top of the branch to stop it splitting and peeling as it falls, also - cut further out first to remove some weight before coming in for the finish cut.
isn't that what I showed ya lol
Not at 12:11 lol
📍 TIP: Cut from the bottom up about 1/4 the way through, then top down on these branches. Why? Notice the only top down pulls the bark at the bottom and it dangles? The bark is the protection from infection. That peel/tear at the bottom is inviting infection.
Josh, after watching and learning from you I want to share with you a program I just watched called “Clarkson’s Farm”. It is hilarious and available on the interweb. He’s that “car” guy we all know and loved. Thought if you had a moment you might want to have a chuckle. Enjoy!
The first season was the best.
Hey Josh, Jim from Wentworth. It is time to get your Martin Poles up into the air. They are close. I have all of mine up right now. I have a 106 spaces for mine. I had 85 pair last year, hope to fill up this year.
Mate this have helped me loads, I have just done my apple trees thanks . Moving on to the plums next
remember, prune in winter for growth, summer for pruning back
I have had a few apple and pear trees that I have had for about 6 years some look like a single stick from deer. I once got 2 apples that's it. Do you think I should restart?
Awesome content as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
You bet
Great video Josh! I would still be nervous doing it, but understanding the why makes it way easier!
When I re-scaffold a tree like this sometimes I leave one branch alone to act as a nurse branch to help the tree survive the drastic cuts. When the new growth is a few feet long (or ideally a year later) you cut off the limb you left alone when the main cuts were done. Ideally you would cut a third of branches down to chest height each year over 3 years but sometimes it is not possible. Another point worth mentioning is the timing of the cutting. If you cut like this in early spring the tree will probably survive. If you cut like this in July the tree may die due to lack of energy left in the roots to initiate new growth.
exactly...this is not a summer prune this is a winter prune for sure!
I moved to a new house that had an orchard of different fruit trees and some are really tall that I wanted to cut back to an easier maintaining and picking height. So glad I didn’t butcher them like this guy. I’m on yr 1 of what I’m anticipating a 3yr process of cutting them back 1/3 at a time.
you think they were "butchered" however now on year 2 after major pruning we'll get fruit. Not sure why you'd wanna put me down for showing you something that worked fantastically....these trees were gonna be cut down if I didn't do this...they now look fantastic. Please don't put other's down my friend.....it simply doesn't bring any value to either of our lives
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer The problem is that nobody has seen any result. When you do this type of cut, the tree has too many roots and no treetop. If the tree had survived (as the chances are less than 50:50 depending on the age and vitality), the tree will produce many water sprouts which are not easy to get rid off.
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer
We are talking about trees
Not your feelings.
Show what those cuts you made did to those trees.
That's all that matters
Hey, Can you please show an update on these trees? I know you're saying they're growing back but we'd really love to see the visual after seeing such a big chop! ❤ This is one of the most thorough and visual videos on TH-cam on pruning a fruit tree, ESPECIALLY a major prune like this. We would like an update 🙏 please Stony Ridge Farmer & Mr Tony!
both trees came back with great foliage last season...I'd expect fruit this season...I'd do an update video but it simply won't get any traction on here so I havn't done a follow up
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer
Show the trees anyway.
I think you butchered those trees.
Prove me wrong
i am speechless, this is the work of an animal. it's literally tree torturing
You said it!
This is how hillbillies cut they're trees!
That's why they're all dead trees in Arkansas, Oklahoma & Missouri
Lol!
Not so much of what the horrible weather does to them in these areas!
I bought the kebtek when you first showed it several years ago and love that and the stihl mini saw
Dude I've been watching a lot of videos and so far this one has helped me a lot.
Some simplified explanation and fast forward through the cutting so you can see overall what you're trying to accomplish.
Thank you!
Much thanks!
I'll be using these tips on several trees this winter.
no problem....fyi..they came back in the spring and looked great!
I live in central Oklahoma and i have 6 year old peach tree that is 15-20' tall it has never had any fruit. Can i cut it back now or should i wait till spring. Thanks for your time.
now is not the time to prune trees....prune in summer to cut back, winter for re-growth. I'd suggest a late winter prune so it grows back appropriately...however you may wanna talk to someone with an orchard
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer thank you for your time.
Hi I have a apple tree that is 3 or 4 times bigger then this one can I cut it down like you did ?
Thanks
We used lard mixed with lime to waterproof and protect large cuts!
If my tree has fungus and pruning dead limbs for new ones would u still suggest to seal
I suggest a seal on any limb cut in most cases. Get a fungicide on the tree...if it's blight be sure you clean your pruners/cutters between cuts and between trees. Use alcohol or even brake cleaner will work
Thank you Sir! Beautiful video! And it was just what I needed.
do not do this right now....this time of year will kill the tree...wait until late winter
Never use sealant unless you are pruning very specific species that the risks of using it are outweighed by likelihood of infection post prune. Which is pretty much just oak wilt susceptible oaks, and elms. Sealant slows the "healing" process and is widely discouraged in the tree industry and won't be used by professionals. It certainly isn't harmless to use. Trees are laregly best left to manage wounds on their own.
This type of pruning is typical for fruit trees but topping most deciduous trees will kill them or ruin the branching structure.
I have a couple of pear trees that desperately need this operation performed on them. I didn't have the guts to do it. I was afraid it would be too much. I'll go ahead and get that done soon. Thanks. Oh, and I would like to see a follow-up on there recovery, too, in a few months.
they recovered awesome...no fruit last year but should have fruit this season. Didn't harm them one bit
..wouldn’t you like to see ‘a follow up’ before doing that to your pears? Check with a local Extension Service Agent for your county and ask for recommendations on competent fruit tree pruners before doing or having this done..
Yes, that's the only reason I haven't done it yet. I was waiting to see the sequel to this video before doing something so drastic. You speak wisely.@@vf5126
Another great information video, I can and will put this information to good use. Thanks Josh
Really enjoyed and appreciated !
Hey great video! When is the best time to cut them back in winter? December of February? Sunny weather? No frost or rain i suppose?
Jan, Feb...depends on the climate where you live. About 1 month before they start to bud out for spring...remember prune in summer to cut back, prune in winter for new growth
Hey Josh thank you for the video you and Tony did a good job and thank you for sharing your valuable learning information that took you thirty years to find out so yes I'm going to send this video to my Gmail that way like you said I always have it but I sure never seen no one from them down that much but you know best because you did it all those years woo🤗👍
Arborcide. The rule of thumb with pruning is to remove no more than 1/3 of the branches in one year. Well, at least apple wood is good for the smoker.
yep, in this case we're gonna have to take a bit more. The trees have done fantastic and grew back nicely. They'll fruit again this year. Despite the comments to the contrary all over this video. It worked great and every self proclaimed "arborist" that's insulted this technique has been wrong. This work fantastically...and sometimes we gotta do a very hard prune on a neglected tree like this
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer then show it
Hard pruning is ok just have to do it the right time of year. Also they make proper stuff to put on the cuts instead of truck coating, good job though. Also remember the 3 cut rule to prevent tearing of bark 💪
In Texas, we let ice storm do the pruning.
We now do that in northern illinois as well. Honestly my apple trees took the ice storm well. Pines, birch, and cedars not so well.
I've been scanning videos since this one. Is there one that shows how these turned out in the summer?
Just did a major trim on my plum I planted a few years back. It was getting taller than I wanted and last year, it had so much fruit, one branch broke off.
But the main reason was the fungus that had taken off everywhere. The only way to get it off was a major pruning.
Now I need to treat it with neem and fungicide this winter to see if I can get it under control.
Lots of people say to remove it all together for a more resistant type.
I planted two plums and two cherries a few years ago and everyone said it would be years before I got fruit. That wasn't the case. I got lots of fruit. One year was heavy, the next year a bit lighter.
I've seen a lot of people saying to not tree the wound after pruning.
I didn't treat any of mine. I will see next spring what worked.
The Milwaukee cordless air compressor is great as well. If you ever have a flat tire, try the larger 160 psi version.
This old Tony did a video covering the Kebtek pruner (1" and 1-1/2" models) as a response to the pruner that MIlwaukee just announced.
I use gray latex paint with a brush to seal large cuts. Gray blends well with bark. Not as harsh chemicals as bed liner, I want as little of the inner wood to dry out as possible. Works on ornamental trees too.
It's best to not use anything on them. Especially if you are pruning in the winter-professionals don't even use it on the few tree species it helps prevent disease on during the duration of fall thru winter.
Trees are resilient and don't need our help compartmentalizing wounds.
Please give us a follow up video this summer on how your pruning worked out for the apple trees.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Can you do a follow up video on what the trees look like after a year of growth?
Is it best to prune when the plumb tree is just a year or two old? Mine have a lot of limbs.
Looks like an awesome job
Need to make a back cut about quarter way through the limb before cutting it off. Won’t get all that bark peel and branches cracking back
Each cut made should have a bud or branch remaining behind the cut to prevent dead stubs. Large diameter cuts are a challenge to heal properly. Annual pruning can avoid this issue. However, there are times where larger cuts are needed to correct previous neglect.
Thanks. Great video
I have a peach tree from previous house owner, it produces peaches pretty good each year excepf it grows so tall and spread to my neighbors yard I pruned it in 2022 summer it grew back 2023 but no peaches last year, this year grows a lot of peaches but I can tell they are not very good as before and rats ate 30 of them already so I only got one basket of good fruits and it grow so big again because I didnt prune last year. So I cut off most of branches this year like that 😅 will see if I kill it next year
remember, prune in summer for cutting back, prune in winter for re-growth. Sounds like you're on the right track
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer I cut them all the way like you did yesterday, hope I didn't kill it..
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Do you have a video on how it looks now>?
yep....as the video said in the begining...the time of year needs to be appropriate...doing this in summer is very risky...I hope you didn't hurt the tree...I would never trim back a tree this aggressively in summer
Could you please tell me when you recorded this video. Example; October, November, December, etc. etc. and what year. My wife and I are having a discussion about this. It is now December 10, 2023 and I believe that the Apple trees should be pruned now or in the next month or two your opinion would matter greatly.
Nice set up. Which I use The Phoenix Inverter lithium Charge controller and a solar panel it lasts all day To charge my batteries.
happy pruning
I love the alligator chainsaw!! It holds both sides of the branch, msking a straight clean cut without peeling the bark off once it wants to fall. Plus this us why you should be cutting from the underside of the branch! 😉
Making your first cut on the bottom of a large limb and then go to the top of the limb to cut all the way through will keep from tearing the bark.
How did the trees recover last year?!? Did they get to produce any fruit yet or will it probably be this year before they grow apples again?? Thanks
do you have pics/video of the pruned trees one two year later ? great video👍👍
Let's see a current picture of the trees. I think these trees were excessively pruned.
love to see a follow up on these tress
Great job😊
Looks great, we have to do this shortly as well
this was very informative and detailed pictures helped alot
It’s a shame they haven’t come out with a universal battery that would power all of the battery operated equipment.
I have stuck with craftsman. We have a weed wackier, drill, leaf blower and a vacuum that use the same battery. I did that just so I could use the same type of battery in all of them.
So can we prune in November?
I would not....january/feb is best. Wait until the sap is way down on these trees...now if you live up north....you might get away with it
Thank you very much. Your knowledge just helped me out. Now if my miss disagrees😂I’ll have her watch your videos 🇺🇸😂✌️
Some Mediterranean folks even chop an olive tree down to the ground completely to the root ball.
Don’t think I’ll be doing that on mine.
How will the tree be able to make photosynthesis because it won’t have any leaves? I would be interested in seeing it a year from now.
looks great....and we cut back in winter for growth...leaves sprouted right out my friend
You just reminded me to prune my apricot tree. lol
Can we get a folow up o the apple tree?
kinda tough to make that a dedicated video, but I'll tell ya. Both of these trees came back wonderfully in the spring, they both thrived. No fruit this year, but the 2024 season should yield some fruit. This worked fantastically
Especially the second episode. His water piping procedure was interesting!
Josh, can you go back this spring and give us an update what the tree looks like , how it looks 12 months later.
Can you prune ornamental Yoshimo cherry trees the same way?
Your link to Amazon does not work can you send me the link that works please. Love your you tube channel very informative
I saw this the other day, but no plum tree in that video. The heavy pruning will help the tree come back and produce apples next year. The apple grows on second year growth and y’all cut off all of that this year. When you prune in the fall/winter leave some of the prongs to allow the blooming next year. Overall, a good video.
I think you did an awesome job on these trees.
I'm in awe also.... like awe shucks he his actually convinced he is doing something right... but is so wrong... so wasteful.😢
Awesomeness!!! 💜💜💜🙏🙏🙏
The stihl hatchet also uses bar oil.
You can use roof pitch to seal them also
Fruit trees are suppose to be pruned every spring early before sap starts major limbs that are removed should have bandaid put on there is a product made specifically for that
Once fruit is set and starts to develop especially apples apricot peach and pears prune /plum trees the green fruit is hand thinned breaking up clusters of fruit rule of thumb spacing from thump to little finger for the larger fruits like apple and peach
nice pruning tree my friend
good pruning job!done right!
Saw the tree and immediately came to the comments 🫣😂
Use old motor oil to treat the wounds. It will keep away bacteria and fungii. If the wounds are still wet let them dry for a while before applying. Does the rubberized coating not seal off the wound to much and promote rotting. It doesn't have any "fungicide" in it.
hmmm....show me fungus growing under a car that's been undercoated and I'm sold on old motor oil. This works great my friend...I wouldn't put old motor oil on any tree...this needs to dry, harden and cure..it will eventually fall off or rot away
😊 yah it's not rubber but bitumen tar undercoat? Than it works indeed.
I want to do test will dissolving tar/asphalt in a bit gas and mixing it with the old motoroil to make it thicker and tacky.
The motoroil works for now fine as it penetrates really deep in stump. No issues with fresh growth in this location being misformed or dying.
Do you have a way I can send you pics of my tree that got topped real bad like you do yours and maybe you have suggestions how I can save it? It’s splitting and the bark is coming off and they left no branches 😢
give it a little time, nature is often the best healer....might take some pix of the damaged areas or infected areas and google the treatment to help the tree
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer ok
Thanks for the vid, I have approx 400 old pear trees, massive trees smothered with vines, there all alive but the thorn trees and sumak is ridiculous, I inherited my grandpas pace about 15 acres, I'm going to clean all the crap in and around them first, then all the dead and try and bring them back, there about 35 years old
goats!!! Get you some goats to clean it all up for ya
Outch! It hurts... I was thinking that the goal was secretly to change the cultivar by doing crown grafting on each limbs but I think the owner was fed up to pick up apples on the ground. Can we see the tree next summer?