Around 19:30 in, you mention rusting out of J bar. I"ve used a cold galvanising paint which can be bought in a pressure can. It's tradename is Coldgal in my part of the world.
My son ordered me one for my birthday, it showed backordered for over a month then all of a sudden when checking on the status showed it as delivered weeks prior ( had been checking status twice a week ) don’t know what happened but never received anything either it was never delivered or it was somehow stolen . I’m the end no belt and suspenders and out $300. As much I want one I’m torn because of the bad taste in my mouth from the first one !
@@paidinfullmotorsports4681 Unless you've had a visit from the porch pirate fairy, it's usually someone in the supply chain decides they want it. I've had a couple of things go astray and followed up with the the courier, the original supplier and anyone else I can think of and had the issue resolved in a day or two. Mention the police might help too.
My 3 year old has got into watching these videos with me, which is a fun way for us to spend time together! I don’t know if you take requests but he wants you guys to build a skyscraper for the next series? 😂
Eric makes sure everything goes smoothly and Jamie makes sure everything goes correctly. Perfect combination. And Jason makes sure something gets done.
I never dreamed all those beautiful mountain side homes are difficult and complex from the ground up. It was great to see that Ray has great insurance that pays for the latest in care for diabetics, WAY TOO GO Perkins Brothers taking good care of the guys. Get them, your insurance providers, to sponsor a video so the rest of the small contractors can follow suit.
we in the Netherlands maintain a minimum of 3.5 cm coverage around the concrete. as soon as your steel starts to rust, you get concrete rot, rust expands, causing your concrete to crack
@@needaman66not necessarily, some people specialize. Just like how the Perkins generally like to outsource the drywall since those guys work so fast.
@@RandysRides Officially the US is a metric country. Everything NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology) does, for example, is done in metric and they produce conversion tables for Americans to use. Quite a lot of things in daily life are measured using metric already, and I guess that's slowly increasing. Give them another 150 years and they'll be fully metric.
Here in Texas we call the long slender shovel a sharpshooter. My family consists of 4 generations of pipeliners and they are used just as much as your standard shovel. Ever since I was a little boy they were called sharpshooters. I love the show
i think you should keep a couple of paving stone mini slab forms on hand for the extra concrete, the homeowner or yourselves can use them to make a walkway or to put plants on. you could also make concrete planters i suppose.
Hi guys, love the content. In regards to the rebar welding and rusting; The problem isn't the rust damaging the rebar. The problem is the rust damaging the concrete, creating cracks and allowing water into it, creating even more damage, which weakens the concrete. In regards to welding rebars. The reason for not welding your rebars, is that it doesn't allow the rebar to "move" freely. Just like wood, concrete and steel expand and shrink, at different rates. Over time the tie down on the rebars break and allows the rebars to "move". When you weld the rebars together and that welding doesn't break, it creates pressure that will crack the concrete.
@@alkemaatje Yeah, rebar should never be sticking out the concrete. In Australia for example, rebar must not be less than 50mm covered in concrete and if you are close to the sea, it must be 70mm into the concrete (because of the salt in the water, which helps rust things faster)
@@alkemaatje All good. Wood wouldn't work either, since wood will eventually rot, leaving a hole for moisture to get in (wood would also have moisture in it). From the top of my head, maybe you could use some thick plastic rods if they are available. Plastic takes hundreds (thousands?) of years to decompose. The works I have done here are usually with formwork (timber around the foundation) that we level, and then we follow that formwork/timber when we pour the concrete, which then gets removed after a few days.
Watching you guys is so entertaining, I never understand why the tv shows with builders/construction have to have so much stupid drama. I’d rather watch a show with good times like these, day in and day out. Keep up the great work
I hope you guys make a video where you can talk to each crew member and hear their origin story (how they got started) - Also love seeing Arlo - He reminds me of my uncle who also is a carpenter. Love the channel!!!
If you ever get a code violation with the hooks the other way to hang them prior to pour is setting down boards and then nail on 2x4s running down the length of the footing where you want them and tie them on with tie wire. In NV we have to have 3” clearance to earth with our bar and 2” clearance to form work
I got a lump in my throat watching this video. Let me try to explain why it was so meaningful to me. For 40 years my wife and I built new and rehabed existing properties. (23 total) And I always enjoyed the four thought and the planning that you described so well the last 2 videos. Even though it gave me many sleepless nights. It just meant a real lot to me to hear someone put it into words and see them draw it out on cardboard also.😂Thank you
Here in Texas that trenching shovel is called a "sharp shooter" and used a lot in landscaping for small holes and cleaning up margins to get clean vertical sides.
Just called a spade shovel in the Northwest; most of us landscapers dig holes twice or thrice the diameter of the plant's rootball, though when dealing with compacted or disturbed soils. The site in question is heavy clay/some rock and needs a decent hole for the rootball of any ornamentals or native plants.
In the Seattle area rebar cannot touch earth. I believe you need to keep the steel 3"minimum from earth contact. We get a lot of rain in this area so maybe that's why the code is written that way.
I'd always overshoot concrete and just dig a few 16" cube molds in the ground. Worst case, you've got some weights to hold down sheet goods until you eventually use them as fill or stair footings for a future deck project.
Hey guys, nice video - as always! Regarding the reinforcement, it isn't allowed to have any reinforcement or steel whatsoever in the cover (usually about 30mm/1"1/4" for residential construction). This is due to the fact - as you mentioned - the steel will rust and deteriorate the concrete around it and will cause it to spall. In this case though, the steel is protruding through the cover as it is not a bar parallel to the surface of the cover. Therefore the problem will be a lot less, only the concrete around the stake will be affected but the effects will be limited. Your other question was related to the welding to (structural) reinforcement. Usually this isn't allowed, however it can only affect the structural integrity if the loads on the structure are dynamic (repetitive). In this case your main load case is a soil load which is not repetitive (I hope it's not). Thanks for the effort put in the videos and keep up the good work!
Yes they’re going to rust sooner than you hope. All you have to do is mark center of wall on your bulkheads, toenail a horizontal 2x to the bulkheads at your mark, and tie wire your J bars to the 2x4. No welding, no spray paint, no sledge hammers, no rusting.
It’s called a rebar template and everyone uses them. You just have to get a real roll of tie wire and some real lineman’s pliers and saddle tie the rebar to the board.
We always have 2-inch wood screwed together in 12x16 and other sizes of pavers and use all the extra concrete, if any. Everybody needs pavers and we often make an AC pad form. Sometimes there is very little left over, but sometimes there is some so be ready for the extra.
UK viewer here. Love watching you guys. I can see your all like an extended family. Great to see. Like others have said it's nice to see you guys do the whole job together till the end. I've only ever worked for two builders that did the same were others sub out the test of the work. I've also Subscribed to Building Jay’s Way. 🙂Keep the video's coming guys.
As a structural engineer, to answer your rebar questions: Standard A615 rebar is susceptible to cracking at the welds and is not generally acceptable for welding. A706 grade rebar, however, is acceptable for welded applications. In this shear application, I wouldn't be overly concerned because if it cracks at the weld: you still have 4" of concrete resisting the movement of the pin. However, if I had to stamp the design, I'd probably advise you to either tie the bars together or source the A706 material. As for rebar sticking out of the bottom of your footings, I wouldn't be overly concerned. Rust takes three things: iron, water, and oxygen. There isn't a whole lot of oxygen in the ground so the rusting process is going to take a VERY long time, likely longer than the building's lifespan, so it is probably not going to be an adverse factor in the building's life. Again, my official answer should be to use some kind of composite or plastic chair, but the reality is it is likely overkill.
In Germany code does not allow for rebar to be placed into the ground for exactly the reason you mention. The rebar will rost, water will get into the concrete and there is a danger that during winter the water in the concrete will freeze and thus expand and eventually destroy the concrete. Also here much more rebar is used when building with concrete and the foundation is at least 80cm into the ground.
Yes. The grade pin method they use is pretty old school, in my area of the country there are lots of older homes that are built on a slab and have had issues with the rebar blowing out the sides of the slab due to water intrusion. I never let my bar touch dirt for that reason, and i dont use grade pins. A simple solution is to drive nails into the side of the embankment at grade and place up to the nails. Alternately just use a laser and screed it flat off of wet pads that are shot in during placement. Another way is to make a wood template for your j bars, level it at a known elevation above top of footing and measure down
About the tool belt - I’m happy to hear the straps have been upgraded. I’ll be replacing the shoulder part as soon as that’s available. I have to say getting rid of the metal tool hooks may not be a great idea. I use them constantly for impact drivers, drills, drywall zip tool etc.
They used rebar at the dorm i lived at. And after 30 years the rust showed at the footings and it got critical at 40 years, so the concrete peeled off. They had to chip a lot away, remove the rust and put new concrete on.
You are probably correct that it would take 50+ years to rust the bar enough that it will break or be structurally insufficient, but the real problem is that it's against code to have rebar in contact that goes into walls or footings. This would include the L bars and your grade stakes. You would probably be safe using fiberglass rebar and wire tying the Lbars and just using fiberglass bar for grade stakes. The bigger problem than the bar rusting is the rust expands which put pressure on the concrete and cracks it. Cracked concrete is no longer structural.. The main reason concrete fails is this, rusting concrete. Look at say the coliseum in Greece it's still mostly standing after a lot of years. Why? Because it doesn't have rebar in it. They relied on thicker concrete to do the job we can do with thinner concrete and rebar, but the rebar will eventually fail. Solution would be fiberglass or other composite rebar. Good luck on that even if your inspector passes you. I'd never do it. We always tie the L bars to the horizontal bars. You could bend that piece you welded 90 degrees to the other bend so you have a more area to tie to other bars. I believe welding rebar is OK I've seen it done even on commercial jobs. All you are really doing is holding the 2 pieces together till the concrete cures and that is where the strength is.
100% agree.. whats worse is that its such an easy fix that requires little effort. Either make the leveling stakes temporary or use fiberglass stakes . This is a situation where someone is building a house to last 50 years instead of 100+ years and for a foundation that can be reused after a demo is a real shame
Wow that lower block wall is going to be tall... Hopefully there is a plan to utilize that lower space for utility/hvac space! No reason to have hvac on the ground floor with all that space
I would think you could clean up posts with that shovel too. I wish I could remember what my Daddy used to call it. We dug waterline ditches with that too.
Very creative time saving method for for the footing form stepdowns maybe a center stake driven vertically as added security, blowouts are a disaster that the review of any blowout situation always has the word dumb/stupid somewhere in the first sentence. Exposed un-encapsulated rebar rust rate is about 1" per year in normal climate and spalling can move even faster because spalling cracks open ahead of rust which is eight times the volume of unrusted steel. I agree the trenching on uneven ground is quite good for someone who is not a fulltime equipment operator. Ray
Great business strategy on the belts. Also really glad to see a sloped build like this. If I ever build on my property it's going to be something similar with that foundation.
I have heard that shovel called a tile spade because of the rounded shape so the tile would stay centered and inline. Love the videos thank you from Colorado for now
I have a shovel almost like it (same size, same handle, sharp to cut roots, but square corners instead of rounded) that I believe is called a transplanting shovel.
Interesting post, the analogy to locks was very good. I used to live near the Caen Locks in Wiltshire, UK. The stairs consist of 14 locks which if you stand at the bottom of the hill looking up, makes an amazing view of the locks all in line. The calculations for cement and blocks is slightly arbitrary, but your expertise in building homes has the last say. Looking forward to the pour and seeing the house coming to life, a bit like Frankenstein's monster I suppose. Take care and see you soon 🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨
The rebar/rust issue isn't related so much to the rebar vanishing as much as it is to when the rebar starts to rust it will pop the concrete. Prob shouldn't put unprotected rebar into soil. Use the green, epoxy-coated.I would guess ansi standards have something to say about it.
If your concerned about rust you could try galvanised steel, and to further proof your steel you could blackjack the steel which is pretty much just bitumen paint
Make up some square forms for the concrete overage. You can pour out some stepping pads , or AC pads, for homeowner extras to use up the concrete that's paid for.
I was thinking they should trench the inevitable piles for the deck now and if they get filled on this run then they’re done and if not, board them over until they can be filled later.
I like to say that concrete "uses" its cover. When concrete is poured and set it has a high ph(11-13) and a oxide layer around the rebar. As times go by co2 penetrates the concrete, lowering the ph, its called carbonation. The carbonation front has a ph of 9.5, when this reaches the rebar the oxidation film disappears. Making the rebar more susceptible to rusting. This process moves thru the concrete some mm (metric) a decade. So having rebar open to the elements basically means you have lost before you even started..
In my youth, we referred to those "sharpshooter" spades as tile spades. I believe the name is related to the width/diameter of tiles that were used in wastewater drains back in the day. dw
Representing the trumpet notification! Every one of my coworkers have never heard that notification and are always surprised 😯😯 when they hear it form my phone
As for driven/buried rebar, I've always been against it and have been told that it promotes metal deterioration. After looking it up, some circles say it could several hundred years before it will be an issue. However, wire mesh is less than a decade. Me being me, I'd either use a little ZIP Tape or paint on the driven portion. The driving would scrape and expose a little steel, but not near as much. But that's me and I overdo EVERYTHING.
Jamie I am engineer at a rebar factory and produce many grades and sizes of rebar. True weldable rebar has a W marking versus a S marking(this is what you have). Some producer do use a water quench and welding could weaken the bar, for what you are doing I think it is fine. I am more concerned about corrosion creeping up, you could paint the lower part with epoxy to help with corrosion. If you would like more detail send me a message and I would be happy to talk in detail. Love the video's!
My grandfather always called the long skinny blade shovel a sharpshooter. I think Jaime was right about the trenching moniker, because nobody at Home Depot new what a "sharpshooter" was......
It definitely doesn't take 100 years for rebar to rust, it obviously mainly depends on location, but if you get alot of rain it could be gone in less than 50, and the primary problem of rebar in concrete isn't nessasarily the rusting away but the warping and bloating of the rebar that then begins to crack the concrete and create voids for water to sit in.
Like the bulk heads but think you screw in a 2x4 to the outside to keep it from bowing out with the concrete. I am a big fan of at least 30" wide footers an at least 8" deep but like 12" thich with less chance of cracking and walls dropping and double up the rebar in 2 heights. I would dig holes for the porch post and fill them if you did order to much concrete or dig straight across at the wall to the porch and make the full house with concrete under it.
Curious if you guys mentioned to the owner or suggested digging out/flattering the ground for a flat pour foundation to give a basement/storage as it's such a tiny footprint house?
Plus it couldn't have cost a lot more. In Austria if you have to build on a slope a basement is the norm, because a normal slab is like 40k for 70qm and a basement is 20k more.
Just ordered my Perkins Belt. I am concerned that the magnetic bit holder is missing. I have a couple I ordered from Fast Cap, so I will figure out how to attach to the suspenders. You guys are amazing, by the way. I love the different dynamic everyone brings to your team...
I'm disappointed they removed both the magnetic bit holder and the earpro pouch. These 2 features differentiated them from other belt/suspenders systems. I decided not to buy the new belt version because of this
This will probably be explained in the future, but I wonder why the house was not built on columns? Seems like it would be easier than doing so much block
I love watching you guys. Have you thought about creating your own tool accessories like pens, pencils, speed squares, measuring tapes, things like that to include in your tool belts?
Love watching you all build. Two questions: Was a walk-out basement considered? And, should one have something ready if too much concrete is ordered - maybe an empty sonotube for a deck support?
Really good discussion on calculating foundation details in the field. Awfully tricky. Awaiting to see results on the block layment. Agree on not lowering driveway. Owners will be glad during rain storms and snow with flatter drive and will have easier time directing water flows away from the structure. Having the floor elevations a bit higher increases views, though perhaps a few more stairs. Will be interesting how you stabilize exposed slopes before winter rains/snows. I would mulch heavily with erosion fabric. Any terracing of the slope (rock? Or block wing walls?, considering there's a min 12 foot differential from parking area to low point of foundation). Are owners thinking of a carport and maybe a covered connection between the parking space and building entry...especially if steps involved? I would try to have a level building entry/deck at least 15' x 15' before the parking space to a provide spacious landing. I don't where your decking goes around the house, but should be intergated level with the main building entry at the parking space. Hard to visualize all this thru a video, but I am sure you guys are thinking about this. 😊 enjoying the videos.
Use code PERKINS50 to get 50% off your first Factor box at bit.ly/3yx7XU4
The Perkins pressure wipes!
Thank me later
Around 19:30 in, you mention rusting out of J bar. I"ve used a cold galvanising paint which can be bought in a pressure can. It's tradename is Coldgal in my part of the world.
My son ordered me one for my birthday, it showed backordered for over a month then all of a sudden when checking on the status showed it as delivered weeks prior ( had been checking status twice a week ) don’t know what happened but never received anything either it was never delivered or it was somehow stolen . I’m the end no belt and suspenders and out $300. As much I want one I’m torn because of the bad taste in my mouth from the first one !
@@paidinfullmotorsports4681 Unless you've had a visit from the porch pirate fairy, it's usually someone in the supply chain decides they want it. I've had a couple of things go astray and followed up with the the courier, the original supplier and anyone else I can think of and had the issue resolved in a day or two. Mention the police might help too.
Hurry I need another video from you
My 3 year old has got into watching these videos with me, which is a fun way for us to spend time together! I don’t know if you take requests but he wants you guys to build a skyscraper for the next series? 😂
My 1 year old loves watching these with me on the tv too!
Bob the builder
lol, yes! that's a great idea.
Come on Jamie, do it for the 3 year olds watching!!
@@trentonsaylor3932and the not-so-3-year-olds. 🤣🤣🤣
Eric makes sure everything goes smoothly and Jamie makes sure everything goes correctly. Perfect combination. And Jason makes sure something gets done.
Then Arlo gets it done
And Ray! Quiet, but works away in the background. Don't forget him.
I never dreamed all those beautiful mountain side homes are difficult and complex from the ground up. It was great to see that Ray has great insurance that pays for the latest in care for diabetics, WAY TOO GO Perkins Brothers taking good care of the guys. Get them, your insurance providers, to sponsor a video so the rest of the small contractors can follow suit.
That’s a great idea!
we in the Netherlands maintain a minimum of 3.5 cm coverage around the concrete. as soon as your steel starts to rust, you get concrete rot, rust expands, causing your concrete to crack
Its so great to see Arlo working side by side with the crew.
I just think it's amazing that you go from clearing the ground, foundations and on up to the roof. So many skills involved 😊
Its called building. That's what all builders do
@@needaman66not necessarily, some people specialize. Just like how the Perkins generally like to outsource the drywall since those guys work so fast.
@@sdtok527 small to medium do. Larger contract 90%. Small do 90%. I've only been in the game 40 years.
13:44 - My metric mind is overwhelmed with all the unit conversions :) Love yours videos.
hahaha !! Yup...metric is so much easier. I've always wondered why the States hasn't gotten on board.
@@RandysRides Officially the US is a metric country. Everything NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology) does, for example, is done in metric and they produce conversion tables for Americans to use. Quite a lot of things in daily life are measured using metric already, and I guess that's slowly increasing. Give them another 150 years and they'll be fully metric.
Here in Texas we call the long slender shovel a sharpshooter. My family consists of 4 generations of pipeliners and they are used just as much as your standard shovel. Ever since I was a little boy they were called sharpshooters. I love the show
Yep...or used to just call it a shooter. Best shovel imaginable. So many uses.
same here, not in texas.
Me and my 6-year-old grandson and I enjoy. Thank you. God bless
i think you should keep a couple of paving stone mini slab forms on hand for the extra concrete, the homeowner or yourselves can use them to make a walkway or to put plants on. you could also make concrete planters i suppose.
Hi guys, love the content. In regards to the rebar welding and rusting;
The problem isn't the rust damaging the rebar. The problem is the rust damaging the concrete, creating cracks and allowing water into it, creating even more damage, which weakens the concrete.
In regards to welding rebars. The reason for not welding your rebars, is that it doesn't allow the rebar to "move" freely. Just like wood, concrete and steel expand and shrink, at different rates. Over time the tie down on the rebars break and allows the rebars to "move". When you weld the rebars together and that welding doesn't break, it creates pressure that will crack the concrete.
Won’t the grade pegs rust and damage the concrete too?
@@alkemaatje Yeah, rebar should never be sticking out the concrete. In Australia for example, rebar must not be less than 50mm covered in concrete and if you are close to the sea, it must be 70mm into the concrete (because of the salt in the water, which helps rust things faster)
@@hiiamhi.23 So, replacing the rebar grade pega with wooden sticks for the hight would fix that?
Just relating to my own project, sorry :)
@@alkemaatje All good. Wood wouldn't work either, since wood will eventually rot, leaving a hole for moisture to get in (wood would also have moisture in it). From the top of my head, maybe you could use some thick plastic rods if they are available. Plastic takes hundreds (thousands?) of years to decompose. The works I have done here are usually with formwork (timber around the foundation) that we level, and then we follow that formwork/timber when we pour the concrete, which then gets removed after a few days.
Watching you guys is so entertaining, I never understand why the tv shows with builders/construction have to have so much stupid drama. I’d rather watch a show with good times like these, day in and day out. Keep up the great work
I hope you guys make a video where you can talk to each crew member and hear their origin story (how they got started) - Also love seeing Arlo - He reminds me of my uncle who also is a carpenter. Love the channel!!!
If you ever get a code violation with the hooks the other way to hang them prior to pour is setting down boards and then nail on 2x4s running down the length of the footing where you want them and tie them on with tie wire. In NV we have to have 3” clearance to earth with our bar and 2” clearance to form work
I got a lump in my throat watching this video. Let me try to explain why it was so meaningful to me. For 40 years my wife and I built new and rehabed existing properties. (23 total) And I always enjoyed the four thought and the planning that you described so well the last 2 videos. Even though it gave me many sleepless nights. It just meant a real lot to me to hear someone put it into words and see them draw it out on cardboard also.😂Thank you
Dont take this the wrong way but i really like how the entire team is petty..you all can laugh all day while working and getting things done!!
Here in Texas that trenching shovel is called a "sharp shooter" and used a lot in landscaping for small holes and cleaning up margins to get clean vertical sides.
That’s what we call them in alabama too. We use them in wastewater industry to help open manholes.
Just called a spade shovel in the Northwest; most of us landscapers dig holes twice or thrice the diameter of the plant's rootball, though when dealing with compacted or disturbed soils. The site in question is heavy clay/some rock and needs a decent hole for the rootball of any ornamentals or native plants.
In the Seattle area rebar cannot touch earth. I believe you need to keep the steel 3"minimum from earth contact. We get a lot of rain in this area so maybe that's why the code is written that way.
I believe Massachusetts is same way has to be in middle floating like
I'd always overshoot concrete and just dig a few 16" cube molds in the ground. Worst case, you've got some weights to hold down sheet goods until you eventually use them as fill or stair footings for a future deck project.
Hey guys, nice video - as always! Regarding the reinforcement, it isn't allowed to have any reinforcement or steel whatsoever in the cover (usually about 30mm/1"1/4" for residential construction). This is due to the fact - as you mentioned - the steel will rust and deteriorate the concrete around it and will cause it to spall. In this case though, the steel is protruding through the cover as it is not a bar parallel to the surface of the cover. Therefore the problem will be a lot less, only the concrete around the stake will be affected but the effects will be limited. Your other question was related to the welding to (structural) reinforcement. Usually this isn't allowed, however it can only affect the structural integrity if the loads on the structure are dynamic (repetitive). In this case your main load case is a soil load which is not repetitive (I hope it's not).
Thanks for the effort put in the videos and keep up the good work!
Yes they’re going to rust sooner than you hope. All you have to do is mark center of wall on your bulkheads, toenail a horizontal 2x to the bulkheads at your mark, and tie wire your J bars to the 2x4. No welding, no spray paint, no sledge hammers, no rusting.
It’s called a rebar template and everyone uses them. You just have to get a real roll of tie wire and some real lineman’s pliers and saddle tie the rebar to the board.
We always have 2-inch wood screwed together in 12x16 and other sizes of pavers and use all the extra concrete, if any. Everybody needs pavers and we often make an AC pad form. Sometimes there is very little left over, but sometimes there is some so be ready for the extra.
UK viewer here. Love watching you guys. I can see your all like an extended family. Great to see. Like others have said it's nice to see you guys do the whole job together till the end. I've only ever worked for two builders that did the same were others sub out the test of the work. I've also Subscribed to Building Jay’s Way. 🙂Keep the video's coming guys.
As a structural engineer, to answer your rebar questions:
Standard A615 rebar is susceptible to cracking at the welds and is not generally acceptable for welding. A706 grade rebar, however, is acceptable for welded applications. In this shear application, I wouldn't be overly concerned because if it cracks at the weld: you still have 4" of concrete resisting the movement of the pin. However, if I had to stamp the design, I'd probably advise you to either tie the bars together or source the A706 material.
As for rebar sticking out of the bottom of your footings, I wouldn't be overly concerned. Rust takes three things: iron, water, and oxygen. There isn't a whole lot of oxygen in the ground so the rusting process is going to take a VERY long time, likely longer than the building's lifespan, so it is probably not going to be an adverse factor in the building's life. Again, my official answer should be to use some kind of composite or plastic chair, but the reality is it is likely overkill.
In Germany code does not allow for rebar to be placed into the ground for exactly the reason you mention. The rebar will rost, water will get into the concrete and there is a danger that during winter the water in the concrete will freeze and thus expand and eventually destroy the concrete.
Also here much more rebar is used when building with concrete and the foundation is at least 80cm into the ground.
The 'code' in Europe is very different for buildings, but maybe it's different for a wooden frame house?!
Amerikanischer Häuserbau ist auch mehr ein Gebastel und Gepfusche.
frost line in germany is deeper also, which explains at least the depth of the foundation
Yes. The grade pin method they use is pretty old school, in my area of the country there are lots of older homes that are built on a slab and have had issues with the rebar blowing out the sides of the slab due to water intrusion. I never let my bar touch dirt for that reason, and i dont use grade pins. A simple solution is to drive nails into the side of the embankment at grade and place up to the nails. Alternately just use a laser and screed it flat off of wet pads that are shot in during placement. Another way is to make a wood template for your j bars, level it at a known elevation above top of footing and measure down
Good or bad, you can drive rebar into the ground here and it's compliant. But the rebar must be held above grade otherwise it's mostly pointless.
The shovel being used to cut the notches into the sidewalls for the bulkheads is a Drain Spade Shovel, we enjoy your crew as well as the channel.
I've always called it a sharpshooter.
About the tool belt - I’m happy to hear the straps have been upgraded. I’ll be replacing the shoulder part as soon as that’s available.
I have to say getting rid of the metal tool hooks may not be a great idea. I use them constantly for impact drivers, drills, drywall zip tool etc.
They used rebar at the dorm i lived at. And after 30 years the rust showed at the footings and it got critical at 40 years, so the concrete peeled off. They had to chip a lot away, remove the rust and put new concrete on.
We weld rebar all the time. We also set our bolts ahead and are inspected before we pour
Hey at 19:40, perhaps spraying Cold Galve on your J Bar.
Perkins and breakfast, love sunday mornings😂
Nice Jamie!! Good job with the foundation on this one. In that climate you are right that bar will take hundreds of years.
On my crews we called that shovel a Sharpshooter, the trenching shovel, for us, was about 4" wide with maybe a 30deg kick on it.
A lot of great information.Takes years to get all this expertise.Thank you for sharing.
You are probably correct that it would take 50+ years to rust the bar enough that it will break or be structurally insufficient, but the real problem is that it's against code to have rebar in contact that goes into walls or footings. This would include the L bars and your grade stakes. You would probably be safe using fiberglass rebar and wire tying the Lbars and just using fiberglass bar for grade stakes.
The bigger problem than the bar rusting is the rust expands which put pressure on the concrete and cracks it. Cracked concrete is no longer structural.. The main reason concrete fails is this, rusting concrete. Look at say the coliseum in Greece it's still mostly standing after a lot of years. Why? Because it doesn't have rebar in it. They relied on thicker concrete to do the job we can do with thinner concrete and rebar, but the rebar will eventually fail. Solution would be fiberglass or other composite rebar.
Good luck on that even if your inspector passes you. I'd never do it. We always tie the L bars to the horizontal bars. You could bend that piece you welded 90 degrees to the other bend so you have a more area to tie to other bars.
I believe welding rebar is OK I've seen it done even on commercial jobs. All you are really doing is holding the 2 pieces together till the concrete cures and that is where the strength is.
100% agree.. whats worse is that its such an easy fix that requires little effort. Either make the leveling stakes temporary or use fiberglass stakes . This is a situation where someone is building a house to last 50 years instead of 100+ years and for a foundation that can be reused after a demo is a real shame
You could use green bar like they use for bridge construction
I love watching you guys. Thanks for making this channel.
Soggy Mountain Breakdown?Good to see Ray taking care of his health.
Wow that lower block wall is going to be tall... Hopefully there is a plan to utilize that lower space for utility/hvac space! No reason to have hvac on the ground floor with all that space
I would think you could clean up posts with that shovel too. I wish I could remember what my Daddy used to call it. We dug waterline ditches with that too.
Very creative time saving method for for the footing form stepdowns maybe a center stake driven vertically as added security, blowouts are a disaster that the review of any blowout situation always has the word dumb/stupid somewhere in the first sentence. Exposed un-encapsulated rebar rust rate is about 1" per year in normal climate and spalling can move even faster because spalling cracks open ahead of rust which is eight times the volume of unrusted steel. I agree the trenching on uneven ground is quite good for someone who is not a fulltime equipment operator. Ray
Great business strategy on the belts. Also really glad to see a sloped build like this. If I ever build on my property it's going to be something similar with that foundation.
Hey guys, we used to have forms for pier blocks ready for any extra concrete so it didn’t go to waist.
At other builds they did that too, they might not do anything that needs such a pier here?
Any decking on the exterior of the structure?
As you like woodpack, Yes i also love shed thanks for your sharing with us
I have heard that shovel called a tile spade because of the rounded shape so the tile would stay centered and inline. Love the videos thank you from Colorado for now
I have a shovel almost like it (same size, same handle, sharp to cut roots, but square corners instead of rounded) that I believe is called a transplanting shovel.
I wonder if you could fly the drone and take a picture from above and then measure the diagonals on the picture?
I like the jump cut from talking about shart-dines to bulkheads; the two go hand in hand.
Interesting post, the analogy to locks was very good. I used to live near the Caen Locks in Wiltshire, UK. The stairs consist of 14 locks which if you stand at the bottom of the hill looking up, makes an amazing view of the locks all in line. The calculations for cement and blocks is slightly arbitrary, but your expertise in building homes has the last say. Looking forward to the pour and seeing the house coming to life, a bit like Frankenstein's monster I suppose. Take care and see you soon 🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨
The rebar/rust issue isn't related so much to the rebar vanishing as much as it is to when the rebar starts to rust it will pop the concrete. Prob shouldn't put unprotected rebar into soil. Use the green, epoxy-coated.I would guess ansi standards have something to say about it.
Epoxy coated rebar is being used less and less due to reliance on the fragile coating for it to be effective.
Saw Arlo using a Hart Woody Hammer. I use one of those, now I feel cool.
If your concerned about rust you could try galvanised steel, and to further proof your steel you could blackjack the steel which is pretty much just bitumen paint
The rebar all needs to be connected and you need to leave a bonding connection for electrical. It's been in the electrical code for like 20 years.
What great, fun, professional crew.
I’ve always used the claw side of the hammer to cut the sides down on the ditches for the bulkheads. Quick and simple!
Make up some square forms for the concrete overage. You can pour out some stepping pads , or AC pads, for homeowner extras to use up the concrete that's paid for.
I was thinking they should trench the inevitable piles for the deck now and if they get filled on this run then they’re done and if not, board them over until they can be filled later.
Oh , the degree of difficulty in this project is a challenge, I’m loving the different grade levels, and not a single duplex in sight 🍺💥🎉👍
Watching you guys built house from ground up makes me feel like I'm qualified builder!
I like to say that concrete "uses" its cover. When concrete is poured and set it has a high ph(11-13) and a oxide layer around the rebar. As times go by co2 penetrates the concrete, lowering the ph, its called carbonation. The carbonation front has a ph of 9.5, when this reaches the rebar the oxidation film disappears. Making the rebar more susceptible to rusting. This process moves thru the concrete some mm (metric) a decade. So having rebar open to the elements basically means you have lost before you even started..
In my youth, we referred to those "sharpshooter" spades as tile spades. I believe the name is related to the width/diameter of tiles that were used in wastewater drains back in the day. dw
Best building channel out there, looks like another great series.
Tub-O-Towels should really sponsor you guys! Ya'll turned me on to it. I bought one of them and they are really awesome at cleaning up grease!
Representing the trumpet notification! Every one of my coworkers have never heard that notification and are always surprised 😯😯 when they hear it form my phone
Very tech and smart work done by the Perkins crew.Look forward to the build up. UK
I call it a garden spade.
At 6:23 I love watching Jamie switch to the 6ft level from the 4😊
I call it a tile spade.
A garden spade has a square nose for me. Another spot I commented that we call that “tile spade” a sharpshooter.
Is there really no basement? I mean I get not wanting to dig the whole area but that one corner would be perfect for a small basement/utility space.
Talented group of guys. Keep up the great work and videos.
As for driven/buried rebar, I've always been against it and have been told that it promotes metal deterioration. After looking it up, some circles say it could several hundred years before it will be an issue. However, wire mesh is less than a decade. Me being me, I'd either use a little ZIP Tape or paint on the driven portion. The driving would scrape and expose a little steel, but not near as much. But that's me and I overdo EVERYTHING.
I can’t imagine digging that foundation in, up on the mountain like the one series, can’t remember which build it was!
This is so so interesting. I've never seen this type of work. Can't wait to see how the block works with the stepped footings.
Jamie I am engineer at a rebar factory and produce many grades and sizes of rebar. True weldable rebar has a W marking versus a S marking(this is what you have). Some producer do use a water quench and welding could weaken the bar, for what you are doing I think it is fine. I am more concerned about corrosion creeping up, you could paint the lower part with epoxy to help with corrosion. If you would like more detail send me a message and I would be happy to talk in detail. Love the video's!
This is so interesting - love following y’all. Totally amazing see how the process goes
you have no idea how much i love you guys 🤩🤩
It is amazing watching how y'all work together and in the end an awesome job. Love watching these videos.
Those are mild steel bars, not high-tensile steel, and the steel should not be in contact with the soil. The steel rusts much quicker than you think.
I could watch these all day
Love your content, for some reason your videos haven't been showing up lately so I had to search for you guys. You guys make every job interesting.
Love to watch you guys work. And the finished products are always spectacular. If I hit the lottery I'll let you know and build a home for me.
My grandfather always called the long skinny blade shovel a sharpshooter. I think Jaime was right about the trenching moniker, because nobody at Home Depot new what a "sharpshooter" was......
It definitely doesn't take 100 years for rebar to rust, it obviously mainly depends on location, but if you get alot of rain it could be gone in less than 50, and the primary problem of rebar in concrete isn't nessasarily the rusting away but the warping and bloating of the rebar that then begins to crack the concrete and create voids for water to sit in.
i cant wait again the next chapter of this perkins project.😅
Like the bulk heads but think you screw in a 2x4 to the outside to keep it from bowing out with the concrete. I am a big fan of at least 30" wide footers an at least 8" deep but like 12" thich with less chance of cracking and walls dropping and double up the rebar in 2 heights. I would dig holes for the porch post and fill them if you did order to much concrete or dig straight across at the wall to the porch and make the full house with concrete under it.
This is so good I even come to watch it twice!!
Happy Sunday y’all❤
I have really enjoyed watching all your shows.
Curious if you guys mentioned to the owner or suggested digging out/flattering the ground for a flat pour foundation to give a basement/storage as it's such a tiny footprint house?
Plus it couldn't have cost a lot more. In Austria if you have to build on a slope a basement is the norm, because a normal slab is like 40k for 70qm and a basement is 20k more.
Just ordered my Perkins Belt. I am concerned that the magnetic bit holder is missing. I have a couple I ordered from Fast Cap, so I will figure out how to attach to the suspenders. You guys are amazing, by the way. I love the different dynamic everyone brings to your team...
I'm disappointed they removed both the magnetic bit holder and the earpro pouch. These 2 features differentiated them from other belt/suspenders systems. I decided not to buy the new belt version because of this
i cant wait to see the block work. this is a cool foundation.
I call the shovel a tile spade, as in clay tile or sewer tile/pipe
This will probably be explained in the future, but I wonder why the house was not built on columns? Seems like it would be easier than doing so much block
build some block molds, put any concrete overage in them and make you some cement blocks that just might come in handy later.....
We call those types of shovels,sharp shooters.they are great for chipping clay and cutting roots.
A Interesting Projekt! Gladden my of the next Videos. How the Building progressive is to see. 😊
I love watching you guys. Have you thought about creating your own tool accessories like pens, pencils, speed squares, measuring tapes, things like that to include in your tool belts?
Love watching you all build. Two questions: Was a walk-out basement considered? And, should one have something ready if too much concrete is ordered - maybe an empty sonotube for a deck support?
Really good discussion on calculating foundation details in the field. Awfully tricky. Awaiting to see results on the block layment. Agree on not lowering driveway. Owners will be glad during rain storms and snow with flatter drive and will have easier time directing water flows away from the structure. Having the floor elevations a bit higher increases views, though perhaps a few more stairs. Will be interesting how you stabilize exposed slopes before winter rains/snows. I would mulch heavily with erosion fabric. Any terracing of the slope (rock? Or block wing walls?, considering there's a min 12 foot differential from parking area to low point of foundation). Are owners thinking of a carport and maybe a covered connection between the parking space and building entry...especially if steps involved? I would try to have a level building entry/deck at least 15' x 15' before the parking space to a provide spacious landing. I don't where your decking goes around the house, but should be intergated level with the main building entry at the parking space. Hard to visualize all this thru a video, but I am sure you guys are thinking about this. 😊 enjoying the videos.
No way! Jamie got a message and I checked my phone. Same ringtone. Sounds like a medieval call to arms.
The legends strike again! (I always have to leave a comment for the algorithm lol)
Who is this Jaime guy … seems smart and witty. Who is this Jason guy … he seems witty and smart….
Great vid guys!
Hi Ray
Hi Arlo
Hi Jonnnnnnno
Can you answer a question why are the Truck doors open all the time during the whole video with no one around. it's multi-able trucks?