+Robert Williams Something that seems so obviously missing (as you rightly point out the lamentable information out there) is: How to *test* your TRV head is funcitonal (especially -- has not leaked all the Wax/Water). I'm planning a flush, drain-down and refill and installing new TRVs and swapping 2 radiators etc... be good if can simply check all the heads separately (and inspect all the valves underneath anyhow) rather than a lengthy experimental process checking room temps etc. Your video suggests the pin from the head ought to stick out some distance, those lost liquid presumably won't do that? Is it definitely the case that you can test by put all the heads in the cold, and then place them all on a hot-radiator and watch their pins stick out from inside the head? This seems such an obvious question yet not seen it clearly answered!. I suspect some TRV heads have become glorified control-valves having lost their liquid/wax or so...
Thank you for your comment Sbusweb and your suggestion of a video topic is interesting. The movement of the pin in the TRV head is between 2mm to 5mm and there appears to be great variation between manufacturers implementations. I would think that putting the head in the fridge and then on top of a warm radiator would get it to travel its full distance. There are lots of potential things to trip up the unwary but a good plan and a thoughtful approach would be handy. I can think of one youtube video where the TRV was demonstrated th-cam.com/video/k5cYjwz-I1s/w-d-xo.html. Sadly this is not a realistic approach for TRV assessments. Good luck in your test procedure and flush of you central heating system and sorry for not being better help.
Very useful video - thank you. I have one question - ff the rubber ring of the valve has somehow bonded with the base of the unit (due to the TRV being left at 0 for some period of time), and hence not water is flowing through the radiator, this would mean the pin would be retracted/down - as it sits on the top of the valve plunger. You should therefore be able to lift the pin upwards (as it is not connected to the valve plunger) and then let it go and it would fall back into its retracted position - therefore indicating that the valve is stuck in the closed position - is this true?
Thanks for your comment and from my experience the answer would be no, as the pin is too light and the friction in the seals is too high for the pin to fall under gravity. I have seen youtube videos showing people pulling the pin upwards but I would shy away from this for the reasons given in my video.
I have a leaking pin on an old Pegler TRV. Is it possible to remove the small gland nut around the pin and pack with a small amount of PTFE to stop the leak.
I have a leaky pin too but I think the O rings have gone on mine as when you push the pin down the water is leaking, so wondering if I need to change that whole part that the thermostat connects to Great video though
Hi Richard, Thank you for watching and commenting on my video. Sadly, I have never fully disassembled a TRV to that degree and I have never seen any information on how to achieve that, anywhere or from any manufacturer or internet personality. When I conceived this video I did so because of the lamentable quality of information regarding these simple devices. So if you disassemble it you will be breaking new ground. As a gut reaction, I would try to get a suitable o'ring rather than trying some prehistoric trick more akin to the days where we used hemp rather than rubber and the rubber o'ring was a wild futuristic dream. The price of these items is quite low so a replacement is not so traumatic and it may be ultimately the most cost effective solution. Buying a 10 pack of most o'rings costs roughly £3.70 from ebay and 90% of that is probably handling fees and postage. A cheap "full" replacement TRV (head body and fittings) such as the one in my video is roughly £10. The more elaborate and stylish are roughly £50. Properly planned and considered replacement should take about 15 minutes, as a guestimate. If you plan to break new ground by replacing the seal in a worn TRV, please try to document it, as I think many people would be fascinated by your findings. Sorry to not be more helpful but I really don't have a clue. Good luck
Hi there I have a rad that does not heat up, but if when I remove the thermostat plastic head it works, so the problem lies with that. When I examine the head, the internal plastic spigot is lightly sprung loaded in the fully on position, but if I turn the head fully to off, the spigot hardly moves, it gets very stiff. It's a faulty head but unsure why?
Thank you for your comment. If you have another identical TRV head to compare it with, you might get a better insight to the issue and mode of failure. If the broken TRV is on a more important radiator, you can perform a crafty swap of the heads, from the least important radiator. This may give some breathing room until you decide how to fix things going forward.
A well balanced and timed heating system does not really need to exploit the functions of the TRV's. A TRV gives versatility but it does not negate the need for the heating system to be properly balanced. I'm glad your system works so perfectly for you.
Thank you for your comment and pointing out my silly error. I didn't realize I was saying it incorrectly. I shall try and be more diligent in future. Luckily the close caption is displaying the correct acronym for people who don't speak English. I could try and dub in the correct acronym pronunciation but think most people will know what I was intending to say. Reworking the original video download can be quite time consuming so I would rather avoid it if I possibly can.
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Brilliant video. Absolutely loved it !!!
Glad you enjoyed it and I hope it was of some use to you.
+Robert Williams
Something that seems so obviously missing (as you rightly point out the lamentable information out there) is:
How to *test* your TRV head is funcitonal (especially -- has not leaked all the Wax/Water).
I'm planning a flush, drain-down and refill and installing new TRVs and swapping 2 radiators etc... be good if can simply check all the heads separately (and inspect all the valves underneath anyhow) rather than a lengthy experimental process checking room temps etc.
Your video suggests the pin from the head ought to stick out some distance, those lost liquid presumably won't do that? Is it definitely the case that you can test by put all the heads in the cold, and then place them all on a hot-radiator and watch their pins stick out from inside the head? This seems such an obvious question yet not seen it clearly answered!. I suspect some TRV heads have become glorified control-valves having lost their liquid/wax or so...
Thank you for your comment Sbusweb and your suggestion of a video topic is interesting. The movement of the pin in the TRV head is between 2mm to 5mm and there appears to be great variation between manufacturers implementations. I would think that putting the head in the fridge and then on top of a warm radiator would get it to travel its full distance. There are lots of potential things to trip up the unwary but a good plan and a thoughtful approach would be handy. I can think of one youtube video where the TRV was demonstrated th-cam.com/video/k5cYjwz-I1s/w-d-xo.html. Sadly this is not a realistic approach for TRV assessments. Good luck in your test procedure and flush of you central heating system and sorry for not being better help.
Very useful video - thank you. I have one question - ff the rubber ring of the valve has somehow bonded with the base of the unit (due to the TRV being left at 0 for some period of time), and hence not water is flowing through the radiator, this would mean the pin would be retracted/down - as it sits on the top of the valve plunger. You should therefore be able to lift the pin upwards (as it is not connected to the valve plunger) and then let it go and it would fall back into its retracted position - therefore indicating that the valve is stuck in the closed position - is this true?
Thanks for your comment and from my experience the answer would be no, as the pin is too light and the friction in the seals is too high for the pin to fall under gravity. I have seen youtube videos showing people pulling the pin upwards but I would shy away from this for the reasons given in my video.
I have a leaking pin on an old Pegler TRV. Is it possible to remove the small gland nut around the pin and pack with a small amount of PTFE to stop the leak.
I have a leaky pin too but I think the O rings have gone on mine as when you push the pin down the water is leaking, so wondering if I need to change that whole part that the thermostat connects to
Great video though
Hi Richard, Thank you for watching and commenting on my video. Sadly, I have never fully disassembled a TRV to that degree and I have never seen any information on how to achieve that, anywhere or from any manufacturer or internet personality. When I conceived this video I did so because of the lamentable quality of information regarding these simple devices. So if you disassemble it you will be breaking new ground.
As a gut reaction, I would try to get a suitable o'ring rather than trying some prehistoric trick more akin to the days where we used hemp rather than rubber and the rubber o'ring was a wild futuristic dream. The price of these items is quite low so a replacement is not so traumatic and it may be ultimately the most cost effective solution. Buying a 10 pack of most o'rings costs roughly £3.70 from ebay and 90% of that is probably handling fees and postage. A cheap "full" replacement TRV (head body and fittings) such as the one in my video is roughly £10. The more elaborate and stylish are roughly £50. Properly planned and considered replacement should take about 15 minutes, as a guestimate.
If you plan to break new ground by replacing the seal in a worn TRV, please try to document it, as I think many people would be fascinated by your findings. Sorry to not be more helpful but I really don't have a clue. Good luck
@@robertwilliams8032 Thanks Robert. I think I'll get a new TRV fitted.
Hi Kuruptah, thank you for watching and commenting. Please see my reply to Richard's email below.
Hi there I have a rad that does not heat up, but if when I remove the thermostat plastic head it works, so the problem lies with that. When I examine the head, the internal plastic spigot is lightly sprung loaded in the fully on position, but if I turn the head fully to off, the spigot hardly moves, it gets very stiff. It's a faulty head but unsure why?
Thank you for your comment. If you have another identical TRV head to compare it with, you might get a better insight to the issue and mode of failure. If the broken TRV is on a more important radiator, you can perform a crafty swap of the heads, from the least important radiator. This may give some breathing room until you decide how to fix things going forward.
Mine are on max all year round.
A well balanced and timed heating system does not really need to exploit the functions of the TRV's. A TRV gives versatility but it does not negate the need for the heating system to be properly balanced. I'm glad your system works so perfectly for you.
Stop saying TVR VALVE 😀
Thank you for your comment and pointing out my silly error. I didn't realize I was saying it incorrectly. I shall try and be more diligent in future. Luckily the close caption is displaying the correct acronym for people who don't speak English. I could try and dub in the correct acronym pronunciation but think most people will know what I was intending to say. Reworking the original video download can be quite time consuming so I would rather avoid it if I possibly can.
Chill out. Your trying too hard.
Good luck and thanks for you video. It made me smile anyway.