I already used this method in a house we built in Alentejo and it really took us a lot of time. Next time I will do a charring station like you did. Great idea!
thank you!! we upgraded the brick version to a barrel one some time ago already that's more efficient th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html let us know how it goes!
It’s actually called “ Yakisugi” Shou Sugi ban” is an westerners misunderstanding and the tradition Japanese carpenters wouldn’t understand what we meant. Yaki sugi means literally burnt Cyprus and doesn’t apply to other woods Thanks for the video
This is literally the best video on shou sugi ban, I literally was wondering how to do it without a torch! Amazing, thanks so much for sharing the knowledge!
this would be a great thing for me. I have one thing that is always hard to understand about a lot of outdoor wood burning mechanisms like chimneys and stoves: Everyone has way smaller wood than we do where I live! The wood used in all videos is the size we use for kindling to start a fire ! Trees must be way bigger where I live!🤔 Thank You for this video! Looking for smart easy way to do raised before garden using all natural materials!
I'm researching about charing wood technique for a few days. I'm thankfull for youtube recomend your video to me. Great material, explanation and ur comments. It does really help me to make my mind. Thank you guys!
Actually, there are Viking homes / forts that have been found that uses this Burning Technique. Pretty cool! Great video guys and Thank you! - Ken in Hawaii
sounds like i will be applying this to exterior chord wood ends for chord wall construction. resistance to exterior invaders is the one concern of that style construction. since the wood is grounded in slake lime and sand putty, end entry is the only attack point. now that concern is gone.
Really hard to get bricks here. Any possible substitutes? WOuld plain old cement do? Also, you mention you make it narrower at the top. None of the other rocket stove vids I've seen do this. Care to explain?
Hey Martin! We did a little update to our own charring station, to have a more stable system, easier to mount and unmount, if you're interested send us an email and we'll send you a picture. If you're not in a rush, we'll anyway update the article on our website in the coming weeks :) Let us know how it goes anyway!
Muy buen video y precisamente lo que estaba buscando, estoy haciendo la fachada de la casa con madera acertada por nosotros mismos, con el rocket stove no se deforma la madera? He hecho algunos trabajos con gas y tiende a deformarse, cual es su experiencia. Muchas gracias y éxitos.
Hola! si, se deforma un poco. El truco para evitar una grande deformación es hacer mas pasadas superficiales, alternando los lados cada vez, hasta conseguir el acabado deseado. Si lo haces de una pasada, el estrés (perdida de humedad) que se provoca en la tabla va provocar una grande deformación, independiente de la técnica que utilizas. Ahora, también si la deformación tiene que ser muy controlada para piezas de una grande precision (muebles, ventanas, etc), para una fachada tienes una margen de error mayor. No te estreses demasiado con eso. Tu fixación deve hacer el trabajo de poner las cosas en su sitio. Otra cosa, ahora mejoramos nestra estación para que sea mas facil de utilizar y mas portatil: th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html (al final del video) Cuentanos como vá! Abrazo
We use our homemade tricoil! Watch a video how to make it yourself here th-cam.com/video/DLCLSWdRCTw/w-d-xo.html Or read our article about it criticalconcrete.com/natural-wood-protection-vol-2/ Good luck!!
Hi. thank you for the video. i developed a technic, where you only need 6 minutes for three solid boards in size 2500x190x28 to charr. this would safe you a lot of time, if you say that it takes more than 20 min to charr one board. all the best!
Hi, very good idea. I think to do something like this to protect wood for my future workshop. I want to know if it is possible to burn plank vertically instead of horizontally like you ? This can be easier to burn large plank ?
Yes! The traditional way consists actually of burning the planks vertically making a chimney with three or four of them :) We like also this technique but it has some limitations: the planks need to be of the exact same dimensions & it's harder to control the intensity of the burn and its homogeneity! For a large number of planks, we find the burning station very comfi to use and efficient.
@@CriticalConcrete Hi, thanks for your answer. I need to burn 70-80 planks and i want to create a rocket to heat my workshop. I will make it with metal (80x80 mm) and want to use it to burn the planks the before finish it, so i can-t burn the plank hotizontally. If i remember it, i make you a feedback for this method.
Thank you! Greetings from Carcavelos, in Portugal. Just one note: it should be called properly yakisugi the true Japanese term. Shou sugi ban is incorrect.
Fica melhor ainda se usarem uma lixa antes do óleo de linhaça pois os cristais entram nos poros fechando-os, ou seja menos óleo de linhaça, mais proteção total e dura mais, abraço e bons projectos😊
It's a cool charring station. However, a 20-pound can of propane lasts a very long time when using a weed-burning torch. Charring a board is very quick. Not sure why it took you 29 minutes with the torch. I also think the amount of wood you burn would be larger than with clean-burning propane. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing Dan! The time of burn depends very much how much you burn and the wind around your working station :) We find that when it comes to doing big quantities, like really building quantities, it makes a lot of sense to have a burning station. Here the gas is imported from far away so burning wood efficiently makes more sense, but it depends very much on where you're based I suppose! We updated the station a couple of weeks ago to make is easier to mount and to burn much more efficiently, so stay tuned!
What?!? you don't know the value of oiling wood after burning!!! Oiling is a very important step to waterproof the wood. NEVER SKIP OILING!!! & never wipe with water, just brush/sand it!!! What is wrong with you people!!!Seriously, do your bloody research!!! If not for the oven idea, I would have dislike this. OIL IS TO PROTECT THE WOOD FROM ROTTING/DECOMPOSITION. When wood is burned, it becomes bone dry which gives it the pest repellant property but it also makes it like a dry sponge that can absorb water when it rain & turn all your hard work into a rotten mess. Oil then gives the wood a water repellent seal & since it is like a dry sponge, the oil can sip deeper making it water resistant internally as well. Nowadays, Japanese use some sort of chemicals vanish (think it's Japanese brand though video has English sub) to also create a much shiny finish similar to western finish.
Have you tried to compost charred wood? It never breaks down. I have 30 year old stumps on my property. Are you speaking from experience? Serious question, no disrespect. I truly want to figure out why our results differ. I haven't done lumber, just logs.
Please change your commentary to reflect the correct name..!!!. "Shou sugi ban"...is a made up word from "Westerns" trying to sell and market their siding products. 焼杉 (Yakisugi) and the related methods actually started in the Nile valley many thousands of years ago, and then spread and/or developed elsewhere in Asia...Like Japan where its been in practice a lot longer than just the 19th century. If you wish to really understand (and then teach others!!!) these traditional methods, please learn some of the language and do your research in those orgin languages...not just repeat what others "think" they know of the topic or try to interpret what you watch in other videos... There is way too much poor information getting "taught" out on youtube by folks that have little to no real experience in certain methods, nor are these methods from traditional practitioners. Teaching from assumption of understanding is really not doing the crafts and traditions any great service. Without that training and deeper understanding should someone go out and teach others, when they themselves are still learning themselves? If you do insists on making videos like this, to show a method, like you are doing in this video...PLEASE...validate that you are only experimenting yourself and have never been taught the methods directly from an Elder and/or native practitioner... Respectfully Yours, Jay C. White Cloud Tosa Tomo Designs
Usually I try to answer nicely to these kind of comment, but honestly, I don't feel like it. Knowing personally the people who made the video, I think you have no clue of the work invested here, ignore the value of the results, and only make a loooong comment to discuss a terminology point, that I think is unimportant. What these people are doing here, is sharing a technique that allows the use of a natural way of protecting wood vs using chemical. You're just being an alpha-digital-male here showing off. That's not helpful.
@@samuelkalika7122 As before Samuel, you speak about being nice and then choose not to be. Why? You had choices to ask questions about why someone might feel the way I do. Why wouldn’t you ask questions first, and try to engage in understanding instead of being defensive? Your chosen position was not to be nice at all, and instead rather call names and tell me what I don't..."have no clue."...about. Then you go on to demean my shared observations, and dismiss them as "unimportant." Actually, speaking as someone with over 40 years of experience in much of what “these people are doing,” I can more than appreciate their excitement and enthusiasm...but these “techniques” certainly are not more than experiments in things they are learning about themselves. Which I certainly applaud them for, but would suggest that it’s presented as a “learning experiment,” not applied understanding based on any degree of experience. To be clear, what is in this video most certainly is an example of “flame painting” but has nothing at all to do with 焼杉 (Yakisugi) nor does it often do much good for wood treated this way unless other factors like wood species, grain pattern, and effects of case hardening are understood...
Thank you team for sharing your thoughts and experimentations. @Jay C appreciate your concern. It would even great if you could share some links to the native methods. Thanks..
@@harishankarethiraj2557 Thank you sincerely for commenting... I have some (I think?) on my "TH-cam" channel. I'm always looking for more and in the not too distant future (I hope...!!!...LOL) I will be publishing and making videos with others to reflect on this traditional and still poiniagnet skill sets with in craft and architecture. Regrettably, even still today, most is only in other languages besides English, and only handed down within oral traditions. We have only capture (to date) about 50% or maybe 60% of what was "known" and practice, and of that information written...its recorded by "observers,"...for the most part and not season practitioners... I would also share here that the folks at "Critical Concrete" have reached out to me, and really embraced doing better with there videos and writing which included sharing some of the editorial efforts with me as the create content. All in all, as I have stated already from the beginning, they are a great group of very talented "next generation" designers, and builders with wonderful motivation and interest to work in sustainable and natural modalities of architecture. They are to be commended for their efforts...
@@JayCWhiteCloud I can't agree more on the percentage shared. The future should belong to torch bearers like yourself and teams like critical concrete in igniting the spark in every individuals mind and help us in getting back to basic. Cheers
I'm like 40 seconds into this video and I like this channel already.
Good idea, I would imagine quite a bit cheaper then using a torch.
I already used this method in a house we built in Alentejo and it really took us a lot of time. Next time I will do a charring station like you did. Great idea!
Nice work guys, well done.
Great! I used the gas torch up until now, but when the next big batch is up for charring, I'll definitely try this out! Nice work!
Hey Tijl! We are very happy that you like it! Keep us updated once you did it, we are curious about your experiences!
How did it work out?
The t
Good job! I use Shou Sugi Ban for everything I build on my farm. But I have always used a torch. I'll try your chimney!
thank you!! we upgraded the brick version to a barrel one some time ago already that's more efficient th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html let us know how it goes!
It’s actually called “ Yakisugi”
Shou Sugi ban” is an westerners misunderstanding and the tradition Japanese carpenters wouldn’t understand what we meant.
Yaki sugi means literally burnt Cyprus and doesn’t apply to other woods
Thanks for the video
You won the prize of being the 100000th comment correcting the name! Bravo :) It has been corrected already in the title a looooooong time ago :)
This is literally the best video on shou sugi ban, I literally was wondering how to do it without a torch! Amazing, thanks so much for sharing the knowledge!
Bah Adela thank you so much!! check out the last improvement we did in our last vlog!! th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html
@@CriticalConcrete Just saw it 5 minutes ago :D!
Have you ever metaphorically wonder how to do something?
this would be a great thing for me.
I have one thing that is always hard to understand about a lot of outdoor wood burning mechanisms like chimneys and stoves:
Everyone has way smaller wood than we do where I live!
The wood used in all videos is the size we use for kindling to start a fire !
Trees must be way bigger where I live!🤔
Thank You for this video! Looking for smart easy way to do raised before garden using all natural materials!
Hey check the last version we did: th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html it's on the end of the video and is very suitable for big planks :)
I made smaller station for my fence and it's awesome idea :). Thx guys
I'm researching about charing wood technique for a few days. I'm thankfull for youtube recomend your video to me. Great material, explanation and ur comments. It does really help me to make my mind. Thank you guys!
Cool! We improved the station also, check it our on the end of this vlog th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html :)
Your treatment for wood is excellent
Thank you!
First video I watch in your channel, the information and the presentation is top notch, very well researched. Subscribed!
Thanks everyone, great video👍😁
Thank you guys!
Awesome! Very interesting.
Thank you Jan!
Thank you
Such a great job over there !!
Thank you very much for your positive feedback!
Actually, there are Viking homes / forts that have been found that uses this Burning Technique. Pretty cool! Great video guys and Thank you! - Ken in Hawaii
I'm curios, which of both technics prevents the wood from sagging?
hey Edna! go sloooow and steady :) both work good.
Great presentation! I have been thinking about doing something similar for a while, feeling inspired!
Thank you! You can also check our article here: criticalconcrete.com/charring-station/ We will be very happy if you share your results with us!
Great video I will definitely try this. Thanks
sounds like i will be applying this to exterior chord wood ends for chord wall construction. resistance to exterior invaders is the one concern of that style construction. since the wood is grounded in slake lime and sand putty, end entry is the only attack point. now that concern is gone.
Great video! Thank you so much for sharing.
You are so welcome! :)
Ya, great video!!!
thanks for sharing. I will give it a go!
Felicitaciones y gracias. Me han ayudado a resolver un problema. Adelante con sus buenos proyectos, desde Montevideo, Uruguay , muchos saludos.
Genial entonces! Saludos!!
Really hard to get bricks here. Any possible substitutes? WOuld plain old cement do?
Also, you mention you make it narrower at the top. None of the other rocket stove vids I've seen do this. Care to explain?
Hey! We updated the burning station a while ago, see the video I mention in the description section: th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
@@CriticalConcrete That one's not as detailed as this one though. Thank you for the response.
I will try it ! Tank's!!!
Hey Martin! We did a little update to our own charring station, to have a more stable system, easier to mount and unmount, if you're interested send us an email and we'll send you a picture. If you're not in a rush, we'll anyway update the article on our website in the coming weeks :)
Let us know how it goes anyway!
Muy buen video y precisamente lo que estaba buscando, estoy haciendo la fachada de la casa con madera acertada por nosotros mismos, con el rocket stove no se deforma la madera? He hecho algunos trabajos con gas y tiende a deformarse, cual es su experiencia. Muchas gracias y éxitos.
Hola! si, se deforma un poco. El truco para evitar una grande deformación es hacer mas pasadas superficiales, alternando los lados cada vez, hasta conseguir el acabado deseado. Si lo haces de una pasada, el estrés (perdida de humedad) que se provoca en la tabla va provocar una grande deformación, independiente de la técnica que utilizas. Ahora, también si la deformación tiene que ser muy controlada para piezas de una grande precision (muebles, ventanas, etc), para una fachada tienes una margen de error mayor. No te estreses demasiado con eso. Tu fixación deve hacer el trabajo de poner las cosas en su sitio.
Otra cosa, ahora mejoramos nestra estación para que sea mas facil de utilizar y mas portatil: th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html (al final del video)
Cuentanos como vá! Abrazo
woul this work with bamboo?
I heard about people charring bamboo but we didn't try it ourselves!
Is this method good for Pinewood?
Yes we got pretty good results with pine!
I did the same 2 years ago it's totally faded not dark anymore uv rays killd the color what can you use to seal it from further sun damage?
Thank you
how deep did you char ? Also did you sand it after? Seal with oil ?
What type of oil did you use?
We use our homemade tricoil! Watch a video how to make it yourself here
th-cam.com/video/DLCLSWdRCTw/w-d-xo.html
Or read our article about it criticalconcrete.com/natural-wood-protection-vol-2/
Good luck!!
Hi. thank you for the video. i developed a technic, where you only need 6 minutes for three solid boards in size 2500x190x28 to charr. this would safe you a lot of time, if you say that it takes more than 20 min to charr one board. all the best!
Nice work! send us the details! :)
Hey Futtersilo, could you please explain your charring technique?
Hi, very good idea. I think to do something like this to protect wood for my future workshop.
I want to know if it is possible to burn plank vertically instead of horizontally like you ?
This can be easier to burn large plank ?
Yes! The traditional way consists actually of burning the planks vertically making a chimney with three or four of them :)
We like also this technique but it has some limitations: the planks need to be of the exact same dimensions & it's harder to control the intensity of the burn and its homogeneity! For a large number of planks, we find the burning station very comfi to use and efficient.
@@CriticalConcrete Hi, thanks for your answer. I need to burn 70-80 planks and i want to create a rocket to heat my workshop.
I will make it with metal (80x80 mm) and want to use it to burn the planks the before finish it, so i can-t burn the plank hotizontally.
If i remember it, i make you a feedback for this method.
@@damienmalet1250 I would not recommend to char the wood inside! the combustion of the planks does free a bit of CO2. Let us know how it goes!!
@@CriticalConcrete yes, I want to char at the end of a short fireplace before the final long fireplace, of course not inside.
Thanks.
@@damienmalet1250 let us know how it went!
super cool guys, thanks for sharing
We are glad you like it, thank you!
hello, does anyone know the name of the bricks used for the base with the cavities?
They are called... fire bricks. They are used to line the burning chamber of stoves, and you will get them where they sell stoves.
@@henglert thank you.
Pretty great but I’m very surprised about how long it takes..
Sir , at 11:50 your fly appears to be open . Just sayin .. cool wood
Thank you! Greetings from Carcavelos, in Portugal. Just one note: it should be called properly yakisugi the true Japanese term. Shou sugi ban is incorrect.
You won the prize of being the 99999th comment correcting the name! Bravo :) It has been corrected already in the title a looooooong time ago :)
How can I get in touch with you directly sir
Sir
check out our homepage!
Fica melhor ainda se usarem uma lixa antes do óleo de linhaça pois os cristais entram nos poros fechando-os, ou seja menos óleo de linhaça, mais proteção total e dura mais, abraço e bons projectos😊
Oh thank you! We will take that into consideration! :)
Proper name is Yakisugi.
ofcourse everything is either japanese or western, ofcourse.
It's a cool charring station. However, a 20-pound can of propane lasts a very long time when using a weed-burning torch. Charring a board is very quick. Not sure why it took you 29 minutes with the torch. I also think the amount of wood you burn would be larger than with clean-burning propane. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing Dan! The time of burn depends very much how much you burn and the wind around your working station :)
We find that when it comes to doing big quantities, like really building quantities, it makes a lot of sense to have a burning station. Here the gas is imported from far away so burning wood efficiently makes more sense, but it depends very much on where you're based I suppose!
We updated the station a couple of weeks ago to make is easier to mount and to burn much more efficiently, so stay tuned!
Japanese would call it Yaki Sugi.
What?!? you don't know the value of oiling wood after burning!!! Oiling is a very important step to waterproof the wood. NEVER SKIP OILING!!!
& never wipe with water, just brush/sand it!!! What is wrong with you people!!!Seriously, do your bloody research!!! If not for the oven idea, I would have dislike this.
OIL IS TO PROTECT THE WOOD FROM ROTTING/DECOMPOSITION. When wood is burned, it becomes bone dry which gives it the pest repellant property but it also makes it like a dry sponge that can absorb water when it rain & turn all your hard work into a rotten mess. Oil then gives the wood a water repellent seal & since it is like a dry sponge, the oil can sip deeper making it water resistant internally as well. Nowadays, Japanese use some sort of chemicals vanish (think it's Japanese brand though video has English sub) to also create a much shiny finish similar to western finish.
Have you tried to compost charred wood? It never breaks down. I have 30 year old stumps on my property.
Are you speaking from experience? Serious question, no disrespect. I truly want to figure out why our results differ. I haven't done lumber, just logs.
L
Ricarda i have a crush on you.
Синий ей не идёт
not convinzing😅
Hey! Check the last version, maybe more suitable for your need :) th-cam.com/video/v8KwtLjgB-A/w-d-xo.html at the end of this vlog
Please change your commentary to reflect the correct name..!!!.
"Shou sugi ban"...is a made up word from "Westerns" trying to sell and market their siding products.
焼杉 (Yakisugi) and the related methods actually started in the Nile valley many thousands of years ago, and then spread and/or developed elsewhere in Asia...Like Japan where its been in practice a lot longer than just the 19th century.
If you wish to really understand (and then teach others!!!) these traditional methods, please learn some of the language and do your research in those orgin languages...not just repeat what others "think" they know of the topic or try to interpret what you watch in other videos...
There is way too much poor information getting "taught" out on youtube by folks that have little to no real experience in certain methods, nor are these methods from traditional practitioners. Teaching from assumption of understanding is really not doing the crafts and traditions any great service. Without that training and deeper understanding should someone go out and teach others, when they themselves are still learning themselves?
If you do insists on making videos like this, to show a method, like you are doing in this video...PLEASE...validate that you are only experimenting yourself and have never been taught the methods directly from an Elder and/or native practitioner...
Respectfully Yours,
Jay C. White Cloud
Tosa Tomo Designs
Usually I try to answer nicely to these kind of comment, but honestly, I don't feel like it. Knowing personally the people who made the video, I think you have no clue of the work invested here, ignore the value of the results, and only make a loooong comment to discuss a terminology point, that I think is unimportant. What these people are doing here, is sharing a technique that allows the use of a natural way of protecting wood vs using chemical.
You're just being an alpha-digital-male here showing off. That's not helpful.
@@samuelkalika7122 As before Samuel, you speak about being nice and then choose not to be. Why?
You had choices to ask questions about why someone might feel the way I do. Why wouldn’t you ask questions first, and try to engage in understanding instead of being defensive? Your chosen position was not to be nice at all, and instead rather call names and tell me what I don't..."have no clue."...about. Then you go on to demean my shared observations, and dismiss them as "unimportant."
Actually, speaking as someone with over 40 years of experience in much of what “these people are doing,” I can more than appreciate their excitement and enthusiasm...but these “techniques” certainly are not more than experiments in things they are learning about themselves. Which I certainly applaud them for, but would suggest that it’s presented as a “learning experiment,” not applied understanding based on any degree of experience. To be clear, what is in this video most certainly is an example of “flame painting” but has nothing at all to do with 焼杉 (Yakisugi) nor does it often do much good for wood treated this way unless other factors like wood species, grain pattern, and effects of case hardening are understood...
Thank you team for sharing your thoughts and experimentations. @Jay C appreciate your concern. It would even great if you could share some links to the native methods. Thanks..
@@harishankarethiraj2557 Thank you sincerely for commenting...
I have some (I think?) on my "TH-cam" channel. I'm always looking for more and in the not too distant future (I hope...!!!...LOL) I will be publishing and making videos with others to reflect on this traditional and still poiniagnet skill sets with in craft and architecture. Regrettably, even still today, most is only in other languages besides English, and only handed down within oral traditions. We have only capture (to date) about 50% or maybe 60% of what was "known" and practice, and of that information written...its recorded by "observers,"...for the most part and not season practitioners...
I would also share here that the folks at "Critical Concrete" have reached out to me, and really embraced doing better with there videos and writing which included sharing some of the editorial efforts with me as the create content. All in all, as I have stated already from the beginning, they are a great group of very talented "next generation" designers, and builders with wonderful motivation and interest to work in sustainable and natural modalities of architecture. They are to be commended for their efforts...
@@JayCWhiteCloud I can't agree more on the percentage shared. The future should belong to torch bearers like yourself and teams like critical concrete in igniting the spark in every individuals mind and help us in getting back to basic. Cheers
Thank you