This spring, I just planted our first two fig trees. I used the condensate water from the air conditioner to make a drip irrigation system. I’m very excited to get the first fruits off of these new trees. Thank you for the excellent video.
Bay Area 9B. Before yesterday We’ve been 5-10 degrees below normal daily since March. Hit 101 today. Brebas are just ripening now. Main crops still weeks out.
Wow, 101 for the Bay Area is hot--they'll get there soon. My figs looked like they were weeks off as well and then started ripening overnight it seemed.
I just moved into a home that has two fig trees. Being a fruit enthusiast, I'm very excited to learn more about them. Would you be able to identify the variety if I sent you a picture?
Congrats! There are so many fig cultivars out there --over 1,000. There are far more experienced people out there than me in identifying varieties. I would join the "Our Figs" forum and post pictures of the fruit (inside and out) once it produces and leaves. They may be able to narrow it down for you. Hope that helps.
You are more advanced than us in SoCal (where I am)… organza bags don’t work for us! Wife made insect screen bags that cover whole branch…and still squirrels or rats will bite through… but definitely stronger. 🍻 Johno
Definitely; one of the perks of living where it's hotter than hell in the summer is getting figs for a long season. Outside of building an entire fruit cage with hardware cloth around your fig trees, I'm not sure what would 100% work.
@@EnlightenmentGarden … we are now doing better than most… but next is the aluminium mesh, folded and stapled to create bags! Squirrels like peanuts and make good fertilizer 😉😉👍🤞
Thanks! I water multiple times daily in summer. About 1 gallon per tree per session x 4 sessions. That's what figs need to ripen properly in an insanely hot climate like Phoenix. Before my current irrigation method, I was watering deep and infrequent and the figs often aborted or were very poor quality in summer. I have a playlist on irrigation if you are interested in more details.
Hi Natasha, i see you culled many great varieties, like VdB, CdD series, lsu tiger, Italian 258, desert king. Some of those love heat. So its surprising they didn't do well. Do you have criteria you use before you cull, like minimum time 2 or 3 years, taste, etc? A video on this topic would be great, and can even help me detach myself from some varieties
Hi! I try to give a variety 2 or 3 years minimum before I decide whether to keep it or call it quits. Desert King is a bad choice here IMO because it only produces breba and we have a weak breba crop with our heat in spring. Some of the varieties like I258 and CdD just did not ripen figs for me; they aborted the fruit. In hindsight, those varieties probably were not able to ripen fruit with irregular or deep watering and may have excelled with my current irrigation practices. Many like VdB, Black Mission, YLN, White Adriatic do great here but also are similar enough to other varieties I grow but not as good tasting IMO. In the interest of thinning my collection to my favorite, they were culled. I do have a cull list that is on my plant list where I summarize why it was culled.
I like seeing all the different varieties of Figs you are growing. I just recently started growing more varieties of Figs . I'm in Mesa, Arizona, so your advice is for my area and is more helpful. I'm growing Genoa, Chicago Hardy, White Madeira #1, Black Madeira, Ronde de Bordeaux, Olympian, Col de Dame Blanc, Celeste, Little Ruby, Tiger Panache, Brown Turkey, and Nixon Peace Fig. All but the Genoa I just started from scions this year in February and March.
Great choices! Curious how your Celeste and White Genoa do for you in time. My White Genoa struggled to ripen well here (prefers coastal climates) and Celeste aborted all of its figs for years before I pulled it. However, that was back when I watered seldom and deeply. Now I water light and often in summer and have no trouble ripening the figs I have growing.
@@EnlightenmentGarden The Genoa has been in the ground for a few years and I got one breba Fig this year. It tasted ok and has several figs on it now, but I'm really looking forward to trying the strawberry and peach flavored figs.
You mentioned you had hens before. I was wondering how they manage in your heat, and if you do any active air conditioning for them? When it went over 105 here in the SF Bay Area last year, I brought mine inside.
Whenever the temperature exceeds 90, I put their misting fan (XPOWER Misting Fan FM-48) on. It attaches to a garden hose and power outlet and cools down the area in their run by about 20 degrees. Some people will put a few bricks in a concrete mixing pan and fill it with water. I don't find that to be cooling enough for my hens and they don't like the water so the mister works best. I don't have an ac uit in the coop but do run a small battery-operated fan at night in there to help cool them down and move the air.
I live in the Deer Valey section of Phoenix. My gallon brown turkey and black mission figs that I transplanted in outside containers (One 20 gallon grow bag and one 36" diameter 24" tall made from retaining wall brick) are struggling with the heat and dropped all their leaves. I purchase two Chicago Hearty figs and one dried up in the shade after transplanting into one of one gallon pots from the other fig trees. I put the other under strong grow lights indoors and it is coming back to life. I purchased two fignominal trees from the same nursery as the Chicago Hearty. I waited a week before repotting as advised by the vendor but these two are drying out as well in one gallon grow bags. What should I do in the heat? Dig up the ones outside and bring them in? Using worm tea fertilizer on the indoor trees(fish emulsion stinks too much for indoors).
Grow bags are a bad option in the heat. They dry out way too fast. For container growing, I suggest a typical black molded plastic nursery pot and using media of peat moss, perlite, and decomposed granite in equal proportions. That mix is well draining but also holds moisture. I use that for all my container plants and water the media thoroughly once a day when temps are above 100. Also, I'd suggest putting them on the east side of your house or where they will be in full afternoon shade. If a container is in the sun in the afternoon, the soil gets too hot and can reach over 140 degrees which burn the roots and can kill the plant. Don't fertilize them until the plant recovers and the leaves flush back out
On a previous video when you were tasting Chicago Hard and Hative d'Argenteuil, the comments were turned off, so I'm commenting here: your Hative dArgenteuil appears to be misidentified. HdAs are typically differently shaped than yours, more elongated and more importantly, have a lighter grayish color. You have something else there, a darker berry fig. From where did you source it? If it's a reputable seller, they may be interested to know, and may even offer to replace it for you. Hopefully, your seller will honor the purchase, as I know HdAs aren't cheap and easy to come by.
Thanks--my source is figaholics. Anything is possible but I don't believe it's mislabeled. Figs can ripen very differently here in Phoenix than in other areas. Even season to season, they can take on different coloring on the skin and pulp with our intense temperatures.
I'm just starting out with figs from cuttings in zone 9b South Texas. Since they'll be first year trees this summer, and we get 100°+ days like AZ, do you recommend shade cloth in the hottest months?
If in containers, then absolutely shade them from the afternoon sun no matter the age. If in the ground and in full sun all day, 30-50% shade cloth won't hurt the first year. Most fig varieties will put on lots of growth if consistently well watered in the summer and do not suffer from the sun but if the roots are slower to develop and the plant struggles to shade itself then artificial means are critical to prevent scorch.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thank you! I will be in container the first year to develop the size and prepare for training & pruning to shape. So I will do some shade cloth and drip irrigation. I will experiment with your watering idea of more frequently in long hot days of triple digit summers.
Nice taste test. Your figs look yummy. I've had a few of my White Madeira ripen last week, and they were quite good, but the rest of my potted trees are way behind and all green at this point. We also are not getting 110 degree temps here. Hey, I have a question, I noticed that the little figlets on one of my trees has tiny white-ish worms on the inside when I break them open. Have you experienced this before? And if so, what did you do the remedy the problem? Also, our fig wasp are quite late to emerge here in SoCal. None as of yet.
Those white worms may be Spotted wing drosophila (SWD). I've heard they are more prevalent on the East Coast but with California's wet winter, they may be more active this year. It's too hot for fruit flies here I believe and have never seen worms in our figs. My biggest pest issue with figs are ants and birds. Spraying your plants with Bacillus-thuringiensis is safe and should help.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks for the advice! The more common thing I spray for here is fig bud mite. I use a powered sulfur that I can mix with water and spray on the leaves. Usually a single spray does the trick. I'll look into the Bacillus-thuringiensis.
FYI PEST ALERT - Black Fig Fly (Diptera: Lonchaeidae: Silba adipata) Invasive Fig Pest Recently Discovered in Southern California Overview: Fig growers need to be aware of the black fig fly (BFF), an invasive insect that was recently discovered infesting figs in multiple counties in southern California. The BFF has been reported in the following counties: Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside, Santa Barbara, San Bernardino, San Diego and Ventura. Movement of figs from these counties is not recommended, as it may lead to additional artificial spread of BFF to other areas of the state. University of California Cooperative Extension personnel are currently working with the California Department of Food and Agriculture to further delineate populations, as well as develop improved monitoring and management strategies. Life Cycle: The BFF only attacks figs and prefers unripe and unfertilized fruits. The adult female deposits eggs into the fruit through the ostiole (Figure 1) and larvae subsequently feed internally on the fruit (Figure 2). This feeding damages the fruit and causes it to prematurely drop from the tree. Upon completion of development, the BFF larvae make their way out of the fruit (Figure 3), drop to the soil and pupate. In some cases, BFF pupae have been recovered inside of fruits as well (Figure 4). Black fig flies overwinter as pupae in the soil. In the spring they emerge, mate and begin to attack figs. The BFF can have between 4 to 6 generations per year (more in warmer areas, fewer in cooler areas). Figure 1. BFF female depositing eggs into the fig ostiole. Photo: H. Wilson Figure 2. Internal damage to Figure 3. Exit hole from larva Figure 4. BFF pupa found the fig from larval feeding. burrowing out of the fruit. inside of a fig. Photos: H. Wilson Monitoring: Fig fruits can be inspected for signs of BFF activity, such as larval feeding or exit holes. Focus on unripe fruits that have recently fallen from the tree. Populations of BFF adults can also be monitored using McPhail-type traps (Figure 5) baited with torula yeast lures, although the efficacy of this trap/lure combination is still under evaluation. Management: Biological control appears to be limited and there are currently no chemical controls registered specifically for this pest on California figs. As such, orchard sanitation is critical, and growers should make sure to remove and destroy any BFF-infested fruits. Larvae in infested fruit are protected from pesticide sprays and there are no effective soil drenches for pupal control. Insecticidal baits (e.g. GF-120 NF Naturalyte®) may be useful for control of adult BFF but note that label rates have not been directly tested for efficacy against this pest. Consult with a licensed pest control adviser and your County Agricultural Commissioner before applying any chemical controls. Please Do Not Move Figs: California figs are primarily grown in the Central Valley between Merced and Fresno, with many smaller orchards spread along the coast and in southern California. Movement of figs from the infested counties is not recommended, as it may lead to additional artificial spread of BFF to other areas of California. Reporting the Pest: If you find infested fruit or suspect that BFF may be attacking fruits in your orchard or yard, please contact your local UCCE Farm Advisor and County Agricultural Commissioner. You can also report this pest to CDFA’s Pest Hotline: 1-800-491-1899 (www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/reportapest/). Contact Information: If you have any additional questions, please contact Houston Wilson (Houston.wilson@ucr.edu). Authors: Houston Wilson (Dept. Entomology, UC Riverside), Kadie Britt (Dept. Entomology, UC Riverside), Phoebe Gordon (UC Cooperative Extension), Ben Faber (UC Cooperative Extension), and Sonia Rios (UC Cooperative Extension).
Please check out a video I did awhile back that shows the difference called "Breba vs Main Crop Figs and Pinching". Breba will set on prior season wood or older wood while main crop will set on new growth that came out the same season. Breba fruit is usually bigger and sets below a leaf node and main crop is smaller and sets above the leaf node. Not all fig varieties are capable of setting breba crops.
Are you doing anything extra in terms of watering during this heat wave. I'm also in Phoenix area. I have several newly planted trees that are going thru their first summer
Check out my irrigation video for more details but I follow a frequent but light irrigation schedule in summer on all my trees watering 4 times a day for 4-5 minutes in each zone. It greatly improves the quality of the fig fruit. Deep and infrequent generally produces poor quality figs here because the top soil dries out in between and the fruit dries out before it can ripen.
@@knicks252525 The emitters put down 10 gallons per hour so 16 minutes ( 4 minutes x 4 sessions) would be roughly 3 gallons per day per emitter. My mature (5+ years) fig trees have 2 emitters and my young trees (less than 3 years) have 1. Hope that helps. My goal is to keep the 1st 12" of soil moist during summer.
planted a dave wilson violet de bordeaux in early spring and it was doing great but now it's losing it's leaves and i have to water it daily. it has plenty of woodchips but will it survive summer? tips still look green/alive
As long as your drainage is decent, it will appreciate frequent water. Even a tree as tough as a fig tree needs frequent water their first year in summer to grow and establish. Also if the plant is pushing new leaves, then some yellowing leaves are nothing to be concerned about and are just cycling. My Panache Tiger has some random yellow leaves right now and is completely healthy.
@@EnlightenmentGarden drainage is great, watering twice a day just to keep alive. it's definitely NOT pushing out new leaves right now lol or for the last month since it's been 110+, it's only losing and remaining leaves are just burning.. even the trunk looks like it might be in trouble not sure what else to do, hopefully it just survives this summer, any other tips would be great, should i do shade cloth? best place to get?
@@SonOfAGun1814 Yep put up some 50-60% shade cloth a few feet above the top of the tree to nurse it through. Amazon carries lots of different sizes. I just recently did that for my container mangos as they were getting torched. This weather is ridiculous
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 82 วันนี้!! คู่เอก | ยอดไอคิว vs อับดัลลาห์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hSsyTl_9bqs/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the fig videos!
This spring, I just planted our first two fig trees. I used the condensate water from the air conditioner to make a drip irrigation system. I’m very excited to get the first fruits off of these new trees. Thank you for the excellent video.
Bay Area 9B. Before yesterday We’ve been 5-10 degrees below normal daily since March. Hit 101 today. Brebas are just ripening now. Main crops still weeks out.
Wow, 101 for the Bay Area is hot--they'll get there soon. My figs looked like they were weeks off as well and then started ripening overnight it seemed.
Yeah, mine are behind schedule too. Only about 90F today here in Fremont.
I just moved into a home that has two fig trees. Being a fruit enthusiast, I'm very excited to learn more about them. Would you be able to identify the variety if I sent you a picture?
Congrats! There are so many fig cultivars out there --over 1,000. There are far more experienced people out there than me in identifying varieties. I would join the "Our Figs" forum and post pictures of the fruit (inside and out) once it produces and leaves. They may be able to narrow it down for you. Hope that helps.
You are more advanced than us in SoCal (where I am)… organza bags don’t work for us! Wife made insect screen bags that cover whole branch…and still squirrels or rats will bite through… but definitely stronger.
🍻 Johno
Definitely; one of the perks of living where it's hotter than hell in the summer is getting figs for a long season. Outside of building an entire fruit cage with hardware cloth around your fig trees, I'm not sure what would 100% work.
@@EnlightenmentGarden … we are now doing better than most… but next is the aluminium mesh, folded and stapled to create bags!
Squirrels like peanuts and make good fertilizer 😉😉👍🤞
How come your fig trees look so beautiful. They don’t get burned by the sun. What do you do!
Thanks! I water multiple times daily in summer. About 1 gallon per tree per session x 4 sessions. That's what figs need to ripen properly in an insanely hot climate like Phoenix. Before my current irrigation method, I was watering deep and infrequent and the figs often aborted or were very poor quality in summer. I have a playlist on irrigation if you are interested in more details.
@@EnlightenmentGarden thank you. I will check them out.
Hi Natasha, i see you culled many great varieties, like VdB, CdD series, lsu tiger, Italian 258, desert king. Some of those love heat. So its surprising they didn't do well. Do you have criteria you use before you cull, like minimum time 2 or 3 years, taste, etc? A video on this topic would be great, and can even help me detach myself from some varieties
Hi! I try to give a variety 2 or 3 years minimum before I decide whether to keep it or call it quits. Desert King is a bad choice here IMO because it only produces breba and we have a weak breba crop with our heat in spring. Some of the varieties like I258 and CdD just did not ripen figs for me; they aborted the fruit. In hindsight, those varieties probably were not able to ripen fruit with irregular or deep watering and may have excelled with my current irrigation practices. Many like VdB, Black Mission, YLN, White Adriatic do great here but also are similar enough to other varieties I grow but not as good tasting IMO. In the interest of thinning my collection to my favorite, they were culled. I do have a cull list that is on my plant list where I summarize why it was culled.
@@EnlightenmentGarden thanks for the additional insight. I'll check out your rationale at the link . Good luck this season Natasha
I like seeing all the different varieties of Figs you are growing. I just recently started growing more varieties of Figs . I'm in Mesa, Arizona, so your advice is for my area and is more helpful. I'm growing Genoa, Chicago Hardy, White Madeira #1, Black Madeira, Ronde de Bordeaux, Olympian, Col de Dame Blanc, Celeste, Little Ruby, Tiger Panache, Brown Turkey, and Nixon Peace Fig. All but the Genoa I just started from scions this year in February and March.
Great choices! Curious how your Celeste and White Genoa do for you in time. My White Genoa struggled to ripen well here (prefers coastal climates) and Celeste aborted all of its figs for years before I pulled it. However, that was back when I watered seldom and deeply. Now I water light and often in summer and have no trouble ripening the figs I have growing.
@@EnlightenmentGarden The Genoa has been in the ground for a few years and I got one breba Fig this year. It tasted ok and has several figs on it now, but I'm really looking forward to trying the strawberry and peach flavored figs.
@@edibletropicaltreeswhich are the peach flavored figs, Olympian? I’m in Mesa too 🎉
@@epigeneticnerd4244 I've seen in several videos that when ripe the Olympian fig tastes a little like peaches.
You mentioned you had hens before. I was wondering how they manage in your heat, and if you do any active air conditioning for them? When it went over 105 here in the SF Bay Area last year, I brought mine inside.
Whenever the temperature exceeds 90, I put their misting fan (XPOWER Misting Fan FM-48) on. It attaches to a garden hose and power outlet and cools down the area in their run by about 20 degrees. Some people will put a few bricks in a concrete mixing pan and fill it with water. I don't find that to be cooling enough for my hens and they don't like the water so the mister works best. I don't have an ac uit in the coop but do run a small battery-operated fan at night in there to help cool them down and move the air.
Thanks! I got more this year, so there's no way to keep them all inside. I'll try the misting fan.
I live in the Deer Valey section of Phoenix. My gallon brown turkey and black mission figs that I transplanted in outside containers (One 20 gallon grow bag and one 36" diameter 24" tall made from retaining wall brick) are struggling with the heat and dropped all their leaves. I purchase two Chicago Hearty figs and one dried up in the shade after transplanting into one of one gallon pots from the other fig trees. I put the other under strong grow lights indoors and it is coming back to life. I purchased two fignominal trees from the same nursery as the Chicago Hearty. I waited a week before repotting as advised by the vendor but these two are drying out as well in one gallon grow bags. What should I do in the heat? Dig up the ones outside and bring them in? Using worm tea fertilizer on the indoor trees(fish emulsion stinks too much for indoors).
Grow bags are a bad option in the heat. They dry out way too fast. For container growing, I suggest a typical black molded plastic nursery pot and using media of peat moss, perlite, and decomposed granite in equal proportions. That mix is well draining but also holds moisture. I use that for all my container plants and water the media thoroughly once a day when temps are above 100. Also, I'd suggest putting them on the east side of your house or where they will be in full afternoon shade. If a container is in the sun in the afternoon, the soil gets too hot and can reach over 140 degrees which burn the roots and can kill the plant. Don't fertilize them until the plant recovers and the leaves flush back out
On a previous video when you were tasting Chicago Hard and Hative d'Argenteuil, the comments were turned off, so I'm commenting here: your Hative dArgenteuil appears to be misidentified. HdAs are typically differently shaped than yours, more elongated and more importantly, have a lighter grayish color. You have something else there, a darker berry fig. From where did you source it? If it's a reputable seller, they may be interested to know, and may even offer to replace it for you. Hopefully, your seller will honor the purchase, as I know HdAs aren't cheap and easy to come by.
Thanks--my source is figaholics. Anything is possible but I don't believe it's mislabeled. Figs can ripen very differently here in Phoenix than in other areas. Even season to season, they can take on different coloring on the skin and pulp with our intense temperatures.
I'm just starting out with figs from cuttings in zone 9b South Texas. Since they'll be first year trees this summer, and we get 100°+ days like AZ, do you recommend shade cloth in the hottest months?
If in containers, then absolutely shade them from the afternoon sun no matter the age. If in the ground and in full sun all day, 30-50% shade cloth won't hurt the first year. Most fig varieties will put on lots of growth if consistently well watered in the summer and do not suffer from the sun but if the roots are slower to develop and the plant struggles to shade itself then artificial means are critical to prevent scorch.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thank you! I will be in container the first year to develop the size and prepare for training & pruning to shape. So I will do some shade cloth and drip irrigation. I will experiment with your watering idea of more frequently in long hot days of triple digit summers.
Nice taste test. Your figs look yummy. I've had a few of my White Madeira ripen last week, and they were quite good, but the rest of my potted trees are way behind and all green at this point. We also are not getting 110 degree temps here. Hey, I have a question, I noticed that the little figlets on one of my trees has tiny white-ish worms on the inside when I break them open. Have you experienced this before? And if so, what did you do the remedy the problem? Also, our fig wasp are quite late to emerge here in SoCal. None as of yet.
Those white worms may be Spotted wing drosophila (SWD). I've heard they are more prevalent on the East Coast but with California's wet winter, they may be more active this year. It's too hot for fruit flies here I believe and have never seen worms in our figs. My biggest pest issue with figs are ants and birds. Spraying your plants with Bacillus-thuringiensis is safe and should help.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks for the advice! The more common thing I spray for here is fig bud mite. I use a powered sulfur that I can mix with water and spray on the leaves. Usually a single spray does the trick. I'll look into the Bacillus-thuringiensis.
FYI
PEST ALERT - Black Fig Fly (Diptera: Lonchaeidae: Silba adipata)
Invasive Fig Pest Recently Discovered in Southern California
Overview: Fig growers need to be aware of the black fig fly (BFF), an invasive insect that was recently discovered infesting figs in multiple counties in southern California. The BFF has been reported in the following counties: Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside, Santa Barbara, San Bernardino, San Diego and Ventura. Movement of figs from these counties is not recommended, as it may lead to additional artificial spread of BFF to other areas of the state. University of California Cooperative Extension personnel are currently working with the California Department of Food and Agriculture to further delineate populations, as well as develop improved monitoring and management strategies.
Life Cycle: The BFF only attacks figs and prefers unripe and
unfertilized fruits. The adult female deposits eggs into the fruit through the ostiole (Figure 1) and larvae subsequently feed internally on the fruit (Figure 2). This feeding damages the fruit and causes it to prematurely drop from the tree. Upon completion of development, the BFF larvae make their way out of the fruit (Figure 3), drop to the soil and pupate. In some cases, BFF pupae have been recovered inside of fruits as well (Figure 4). Black fig flies overwinter as pupae in the soil. In the spring they emerge, mate and begin to attack figs. The BFF can have between 4 to 6 generations per year (more in warmer areas, fewer in cooler areas).
Figure 1. BFF female depositing eggs into the fig ostiole. Photo: H. Wilson
Figure 2. Internal damage to Figure 3. Exit hole from larva Figure 4. BFF pupa found
the fig from larval feeding. burrowing out of the fruit. inside of a fig. Photos: H. Wilson
Monitoring: Fig fruits can be inspected for signs of BFF activity, such as larval feeding or exit holes. Focus on unripe fruits that have recently fallen from the tree. Populations of BFF adults can also be monitored using McPhail-type traps (Figure 5) baited with torula yeast lures, although the efficacy of this trap/lure combination is still under evaluation.
Management: Biological control appears to be limited and there are
currently no chemical controls registered specifically for this pest on
California figs. As such, orchard sanitation is critical, and growers
should make sure to remove and destroy any BFF-infested fruits.
Larvae in infested fruit are protected from pesticide sprays and there
are no effective soil drenches for pupal control. Insecticidal baits (e.g.
GF-120 NF Naturalyte®) may be useful for control of adult BFF but note that label rates have not been directly tested for efficacy against this pest. Consult with a licensed pest control adviser and your County Agricultural Commissioner before applying any chemical controls.
Please Do Not Move Figs: California figs are primarily grown in the Central Valley between Merced and Fresno, with many smaller orchards spread along the coast and in southern California. Movement of figs from the infested counties is not recommended, as it may lead to additional artificial spread of BFF to other areas of California.
Reporting the Pest: If you find infested fruit or suspect that BFF may be attacking fruits in your orchard or yard, please contact your local UCCE Farm Advisor and County Agricultural Commissioner. You can also report this pest to CDFA’s Pest Hotline: 1-800-491-1899 (www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/reportapest/).
Contact Information: If you have any additional questions, please contact Houston Wilson (Houston.wilson@ucr.edu).
Authors: Houston Wilson (Dept. Entomology, UC Riverside), Kadie Britt (Dept. Entomology, UC Riverside), Phoebe Gordon (UC Cooperative Extension), Ben Faber (UC Cooperative Extension), and Sonia Rios (UC Cooperative Extension).
How does one know/distinguish a breba crop vs main ?
Please check out a video I did awhile back that shows the difference called "Breba vs Main Crop Figs and Pinching". Breba will set on prior season wood or older wood while main crop will set on new growth that came out the same season. Breba fruit is usually bigger and sets below a leaf node and main crop is smaller and sets above the leaf node. Not all fig varieties are capable of setting breba crops.
Are you doing anything extra in terms of watering during this heat wave. I'm also in Phoenix area. I have several newly planted trees that are going thru their first summer
Check out my irrigation video for more details but I follow a frequent but light irrigation schedule in summer on all my trees watering 4 times a day for 4-5 minutes in each zone. It greatly improves the quality of the fig fruit. Deep and infrequent generally produces poor quality figs here because the top soil dries out in between and the fruit dries out before it can ripen.
@@EnlightenmentGarden how many gallons is that per 5 min cycle? Roughly.
@@knicks252525 The emitters put down 10 gallons per hour so 16 minutes ( 4 minutes x 4 sessions) would be roughly 3 gallons per day per emitter. My mature (5+ years) fig trees have 2 emitters and my young trees (less than 3 years) have 1. Hope that helps. My goal is to keep the 1st 12" of soil moist during summer.
@@EnlightenmentGarden thx so than we divide the 3 gallons by 4 and that's roughly how much water is applied per session per emitter am I correct?
@@knicks252525 yes it would be close to .75 gallons per emitter and session with my current schedule.
planted a dave wilson violet de bordeaux in early spring and it was doing great but now it's losing it's leaves and i have to water it daily. it has plenty of woodchips but will it survive summer? tips still look green/alive
As long as your drainage is decent, it will appreciate frequent water. Even a tree as tough as a fig tree needs frequent water their first year in summer to grow and establish. Also if the plant is pushing new leaves, then some yellowing leaves are nothing to be concerned about and are just cycling. My Panache Tiger has some random yellow leaves right now and is completely healthy.
@@EnlightenmentGarden drainage is great, watering twice a day just to keep alive. it's definitely NOT pushing out new leaves right now lol or for the last month since it's been 110+, it's only losing and remaining leaves are just burning.. even the trunk looks like it might be in trouble not sure what else to do, hopefully it just survives this summer, any other tips would be great, should i do shade cloth? best place to get?
@@SonOfAGun1814 Yep put up some 50-60% shade cloth a few feet above the top of the tree to nurse it through. Amazon carries lots of different sizes. I just recently did that for my container mangos as they were getting torched. This weather is ridiculous
@@EnlightenmentGarden ordering now! Thank you again I really appreciate it!