Thanks for the explanations, Jason! I'm working on growing Gambel's oaks from seed, and one thing I'd really like to replicate is the vision of the environment from which I harvested the seeds; the Rocky Mountains, up in the aspen forests near Sundance, Utah. There was an oak hanging over open space, having been planted in a fissure in the cliff face by a bluejay. The fissure was created when a layer of slate fell out from beneath its overhanging layer, so this tree had to grow straight out sideways for about 2 feet just to reach the sunlight, but it managed to do so. At the same time, the root system pried its way in-between the two rock layers, providing enough anchorage to hold itself in place with a completely horizontal trunk. I'm growing three of the Gambels in grow-pots, with the intention of creating an initial trunk curve by slowly tilting the pots as they grow thicker. Then they'll be in what are essentially horizontal soil tubes, like that tree with its roots back into the fissure, watered and fertilized through the cloth sides. These trees should be uniquely adapted to shift from normal vertical growth at the trunk, to coping with horizontal positioning, because in nature, that's what happens: soil slowly erodes down the mountainsides, and the trees hang on and adapt by growing strong roots that can provide the leverage to maintain their grip. They end up with a sharp bend at the base of the trunk. The challenge at that point should be to create the right rock arrangement in a bonsai pot, that will replicate the cliff-face appearance and allow the roots to hang on tight, and still being able to fertilize and water. I'll probably have to commission a potter to create something for me from a gray clay, to replicate the limestone of the mountains. Any thoughts, Jason?
The usual practice is to attach to the rock and then bury it, slowly revealing more and more of the rock over time. Good luck, sounds like an interesting project. 👍
Great video Jason. I was hoping to save this video in my Bonsai folder, but there is no button for that. A lot of things clicked for me with your video. Just excellent for a beginner like me.
I have a handful of trees planted in the ground for that purpose 👍 Thank you. You should check out this video: th-cam.com/video/DIP-z-105CY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QF4k_u6iYcoEkEVf
Hi Jason, very good video Although I'm not a beginner I found it very informative and it's always nice to refresh your bonsai knowledge isn't it. A question for you though What's your theory/practice for repotting aftercare? There seems to be varying thoughts on the subject ie. should the tree go straight back on the bench, should it stay in the garage for a few weeks - interesting subject. I live in Melbourne Australia and I'm leaning toward straight back on the bench, filtered sunlight and protect from med-strong wind and be vigilant regarding watering. Interested in what you recommend or do yourself, I understand over there it's probably colder late autumn and frost would be a consideration for you. Love the videos, keep them coming. Cheers Glenn
Thanks Glenn. I would do what you suggest. If the roots have been damaged the trees ability to take up water has been temporarily reduced so you need to reduce the transpiration while it recovers. A shaded spot will assist that.
Very good video on the subject. Well balanced and covers areas of designing and shaping one’s bonsai. I learned several things. Plan to share it with other individuals that are interested in bonsai, as it has the information they need. And I’ll recommend you channel to them.
Jason, you got me hooked on the subject of directional pruning, redirection of energy affected by pruning. Could you tell me if you know of any literature that deals with these topics? I want to dive in deeper into this subject and you seem to have a very good grasp on these issues.... Thank you.
This video is brilliant for learning how to look after a bonsai tree and you have explained the process very well and the drawings help too I want to have a go at doing bonsai and this is a easy way for me to follow. Thank you for making this video
Glad that this was helpful Paula. 🙏 My advice would definitely be fearless and get practical hands on with trees to build up your confidence and experience. We all started somewhere and went through this same learning curve.
That's a lovely blackthorn, I wonder if I can get that species here in the US. The Heron's crabapple is awesome! Thanks for this very informative video. Excellent whiteboard drawings, as always 🙂
I am seeing n looking from a far. Thank for your video information. Greeting one hobby Bonsai From Indonesia. I am appretiate for your activity. Good job Sir.
Everything starts with the trunk, your Hawthorn would be fine as a Shohin, the ratio of trunk base to height is often completely skipped but it's really important. I just chopped 3ft off the top of one of my Hawthorn yesterday.
Hi Jason, At 8:30, Won't the sacrificial branch thicken the trunk where the branch emerges from leaving the trunk below to fall behind leading to inverse taper? 🤔 Love your vids BTW 👍😎
Very nice video and bonsai trees you have sir. I do have a question about thickening the trunk. In another video on youtube I saw that the person was cutting down the branches on the young tree with the explanation being that the energy is to be focused on the trunk and not on the new developing branches and therefore the trunk gets thicken. You sir encourage to let the new branches and foliage grow. Can you bring some light for a begginer as myself? Also what are the small black plastic containers on some of the pots? Thank you :)
Think of the leaves as solar panels - each generating and pumping energy back into the tree. The more leaves, the more energy and the more growth to thicken up and develop the trunk. Many growers will allow the tree to grow as much as it wants all spring and summer, then in late autumn trim it all back to control the branches and remove anything that will not be part of the design or finished image of the tree. This gets the maximum boost of energy and then once the growing season has ended, any unnecessary or unwanted branches can be removed without losing energy. It’s not an exact science but finding a compromise or balance between allowing the tree to grow and expand, and trimming it back to the desired shape. Those small black containers are fertiliser baskets - available from eBay quite cheaply.
So I have two Japanese maple saplings one is 2-3 years old around 3ft tall, the other is 3-5 years old around 4 feet tall.What I gather from your advice is that I should let them grow. Their all long and whispy, should I not cut them back at all?
It depends whether the trunk is as thick, or near to where you would like it. If you cut it back at the end of summer then it will have absorbed maximum energy from leaves and branches and you will compact or reduce the form for next season.
Hi Jason. Really interesting video. Thanks. If aiming to grow trunk girth is leaving a tree to grow naturally always better than pinching to promote branching? Ie doesn’t branching create extra energy demand from trunk too?
Yes it would, but it’s a bit of a delicate balancing act. I think the key is to worry about getting the right trunk before developing the branches. The branching can be developed and regrown in a couple of seasons but if the trunk is not right, that can take much much longer to correct.
Szia Chris! Meg fogom vizsgálni ezt, de általában hagyom, hogy a Google/TH-cam gondoskodjon a fordításról és a feliratokról. Meglátom, miben segíthetek. 🙏
Thanks so much, Jason, I have learned so much from just a few of your videos! I do have a question: have a Hinoki Cypress in a pot, was pruned too early I think, and I need to thicken the trunk. Was planning to put back in ground to do so. When I allow a "sacrificial branch" to grow unchecked, does that mean I need to prune all the other branches? It seems so, but want to confirm. Thank you again!
Hi Carol, so glad these videos have been of help and thank you for your thank you gift which is greatly appreciated 🙏 You can plant the tree unpruned and all the extra foliage will thicken up the trunk quicker as more leaves means more energy, means more growth. Alternatively you might want to shape the tree and prevent it using unnecessary resources on branches which might not form part of the final design. It’s a judgement call and constant balancing act. Leaving the branches will provide more energy for the tree and help thicken it quicker, but may result in thicker branches too, with more obvious cuts and pruning. Removing now will reduce energy generated and possibly slow development a little, but also avoid wasting energy developing unwanted branches, and give less severe pruning scars.
Thanks for your quick reply! I'm really uncertain which path to take, so trying to be more conservative, I would leave it for a year and maybe start the sacrificial branch, pruning others after that...does that make sense?
@carolkotsiopoulos5781 sometimes there is no easy or obvious single answer, but a weighing up of the pros and cons and making a judgement call. It is unlikely that either decision would be detrimental, just different routes to a similar destination. 😊
@@TheBonsaiGarden My castoff pile is getting larger. On the other hand, I did attend my first bonsai club meeting tonight, after being a member for over a year now. I was hoping to see Candice, she's been silent for awhile now.
Please hit that Like button 👍 if you enjoyed this video and would like to see more.
Excellent to the point explanations for a beginner as myself. Thank you
Thank you kindly 👍
One of the best instructional videos ever! I’m so glad I’ve found you!
Wow, thank you!
By far the best video I've seen on pruning/trimming bonsais - thank you!
Thanks 🙏 I appreciate that.
Very helpful and easy to understand, thank you. 😊
That’s great. Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for a great video! Keep up the great work
Thanks, will do Jonathan 👍
Thanks for the explanations, Jason! I'm working on growing Gambel's oaks from seed, and one thing I'd really like to replicate is the vision of the environment from which I harvested the seeds; the Rocky Mountains, up in the aspen forests near Sundance, Utah. There was an oak hanging over open space, having been planted in a fissure in the cliff face by a bluejay. The fissure was created when a layer of slate fell out from beneath its overhanging layer, so this tree had to grow straight out sideways for about 2 feet just to reach the sunlight, but it managed to do so. At the same time, the root system pried its way in-between the two rock layers, providing enough anchorage to hold itself in place with a completely horizontal trunk.
I'm growing three of the Gambels in grow-pots, with the intention of creating an initial trunk curve by slowly tilting the pots as they grow thicker. Then they'll be in what are essentially horizontal soil tubes, like that tree with its roots back into the fissure, watered and fertilized through the cloth sides. These trees should be uniquely adapted to shift from normal vertical growth at the trunk, to coping with horizontal positioning, because in nature, that's what happens: soil slowly erodes down the mountainsides, and the trees hang on and adapt by growing strong roots that can provide the leverage to maintain their grip. They end up with a sharp bend at the base of the trunk.
The challenge at that point should be to create the right rock arrangement in a bonsai pot, that will replicate the cliff-face appearance and allow the roots to hang on tight, and still being able to fertilize and water. I'll probably have to commission a potter to create something for me from a gray clay, to replicate the limestone of the mountains.
Any thoughts, Jason?
The usual practice is to attach to the rock and then bury it, slowly revealing more and more of the rock over time.
Good luck, sounds like an interesting project. 👍
This is an amazing video thankyou, this helped me understand what pruning js and how to use it to your advantage in various ways. Well said Doc 👍🏼
Thanks for the kind words, and glad to help.
I'm a former teacher and know a good job giving clear information when I hear ir.. Thank you. You are very good!
Thank you for the kind words Andrew. 🙏
Great video Jason. I was hoping to save this video in my Bonsai folder, but there is no button for that. A lot of things clicked for me with your video. Just excellent for a beginner like me.
Glad this was helpful Lisa 👍
An extremely valuable explanation on Bonsai pruning answering most important questions for pruning . Thank you sir.
You are welcome
great video Sir! I've learn a lot, thank you
Glad to hear it!
Very good! Thorough. Thank you.
Thank you Robert 🙏
One of the best pruning videos on youtube ticks all the boxes the how, the why, the when and even the inner mechanisms. Well done 👏
Thank you Conrad 👍
Thorough and easy to understand. I especially enjoy your illustrations.
Glad you like them Susan 😊
So much valuable information. Thank you Jason!
You are very welcome Raymond. Thank you for your kind comment 🙏
Great informative video Jason. Pleasure to listen to you explain and watch you do your work!
Thank you Matt 🙏
Hi you have some amazing looking plants and trees, have you ever considered planting some trees in the ground for a while to thicken the trunks ?
I have a handful of trees planted in the ground for that purpose 👍
Thank you. You should check out this video:
th-cam.com/video/DIP-z-105CY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QF4k_u6iYcoEkEVf
I’m very new to pruning I learned so much from your video
Thank you 🙏
Hi Jason, very good video
Although I'm not a beginner I found it very informative and it's always nice to refresh your bonsai knowledge isn't it.
A question for you though
What's your theory/practice for repotting aftercare?
There seems to be varying thoughts on the subject ie. should the tree go straight back on the bench, should it stay in the garage for a few weeks - interesting subject.
I live in Melbourne Australia and I'm leaning toward straight back on the bench, filtered sunlight and protect from med-strong wind and be vigilant regarding watering.
Interested in what you recommend or do yourself, I understand over there it's probably colder late autumn and frost would be a consideration for you.
Love the videos, keep them coming.
Cheers
Glenn
Thanks Glenn. I would do what you suggest. If the roots have been damaged the trees ability to take up water has been temporarily reduced so you need to reduce the transpiration while it recovers. A shaded spot will assist that.
Very good video on the subject. Well balanced and covers areas of designing and shaping one’s bonsai. I learned several things. Plan to share it with other individuals that are interested in bonsai, as it has the information they need. And I’ll recommend you channel to them.
Thank you Jeff 👍
Jason, you got me hooked on the subject of directional pruning, redirection of energy affected by pruning. Could you tell me if you know of any literature that deals with these topics? I want to dive in deeper into this subject and you seem to have a very good grasp on these issues.... Thank you.
Thank you for your kind comments. I don’t know of any good literature that looks at these specifically in any detail, sorry. 🤗
Thank you, Jason, for another great informative video
My pleasure!
Great video. One of your best. I can't wait, but will, to apply what you showed.
Great stuff 👍
That was brilliant! So helpful.
You are welcome 🙏
Thanks!
Thank you kindly Carol 🙏
This video is brilliant for learning how to look after a bonsai tree and you have explained the process very well and the drawings help too I want to have a go at doing bonsai and this is a easy way for me to follow. Thank you for making this video
Glad that this was helpful Paula. 🙏
My advice would definitely be fearless and get practical hands on with trees to build up your confidence and experience.
We all started somewhere and went through this same learning curve.
your video's are really interesting and worth watching. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for your kind comment 🙏
Really informative video. Thanks for taking the time to put these together.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic tutorial Jason. Thanks, keep growing
My pleasure Matt
Nailed the info on this one, good job 👍🏻
Thank you kindly for your feedback, it is much appreciated 🙏
excelente video! ...... thanks.
Thank you for your kind feedback 👍
Easy to understand, thanks!
You are welcoome
Great information Jason 👍👏👏
Glad it was helpful Steve!
As usual a very good video Jason. How’s your finger ? 👍👍
Thanks Andy. The finger is doing well. Where there was one it is ramifying nicely and I now have two growing 😂😂😂
That was spot on and I love how the scripting element seems to be working. You nailed this one :)
Thank you. 🙏 It was exhausting to put together 😆
Next up: possibly, everything you ever wanted to know about bonsai soil…
@@TheBonsaiGarden Don't foget to metion it makes your hands dirty :)
That's a lovely blackthorn, I wonder if I can get that species here in the US. The Heron's crabapple is awesome! Thanks for this very informative video. Excellent whiteboard drawings, as always 🙂
Thank you 🙏
Thank you 😊
You're welcome 😊
Great video Jason !
Thanks, your comments and feedback always appreciated 🙏
I am seeing n looking from a far.
Thank for your video information.
Greeting one hobby Bonsai From Indonesia.
I am appretiate for your activity.
Good job Sir.
Thank you for your kind comments 🙏
Everything starts with the trunk, your Hawthorn would be fine as a Shohin, the ratio of trunk base to height is often completely skipped but it's really important. I just chopped 3ft off the top of one of my Hawthorn yesterday.
Thanks Paul
Brilliant video Jason 💪💚🌳
Thank you Alex. More of this type of thing to come 😊
Hi Jason, At 8:30, Won't the sacrificial branch thicken the trunk where the branch emerges from leaving the trunk below to fall behind leading to inverse taper? 🤔
Love your vids BTW 👍😎
I expect the sacrificial branch to thicken the trunk from that point downwards.
Every video get better and better
Thank you, much appreciated 🙏
Very nice video and bonsai trees you have sir. I do have a question about thickening the trunk. In another video on youtube I saw that the person was cutting down the branches on the young tree with the explanation being that the energy is to be focused on the trunk and not on the new developing branches and therefore the trunk gets thicken. You sir encourage to let the new branches and foliage grow. Can you bring some light for a begginer as myself? Also what are the small black plastic containers on some of the pots? Thank you :)
Think of the leaves as solar panels - each generating and pumping energy back into the tree. The more leaves, the more energy and the more growth to thicken up and develop the trunk. Many growers will allow the tree to grow as much as it wants all spring and summer, then in late autumn trim it all back to control the branches and remove anything that will not be part of the design or finished image of the tree. This gets the maximum boost of energy and then once the growing season has ended, any unnecessary or unwanted branches can be removed without losing energy.
It’s not an exact science but finding a compromise or balance between allowing the tree to grow and expand, and trimming it back to the desired shape.
Those small black containers are fertiliser baskets - available from eBay quite cheaply.
So I have two Japanese maple saplings one is 2-3 years old around 3ft tall, the other is 3-5 years old around 4 feet tall.What I gather from your advice is that I should let them grow. Their all long and whispy, should I not cut them back at all?
It depends whether the trunk is as thick, or near to where you would like it. If you cut it back at the end of summer then it will have absorbed maximum energy from leaves and branches and you will compact or reduce the form for next season.
@@TheBonsaiGarden I still want them to thicken up so I just leave them be, thanks for the response I appreciate your time!
Thanks
Thank you 🙏
Anytime of the year to prune?
I tend to do major structural pruning mid to late winter while the tree silhouette is visible. Minor maintenance pruning pretty much any time.
@@TheBonsaiGarden many thanks
Hi Jason. Really interesting video. Thanks. If aiming to grow trunk girth is leaving a tree to grow naturally always better than pinching to promote branching? Ie doesn’t branching create extra energy demand from trunk too?
Yes it would, but it’s a bit of a delicate balancing act. I think the key is to worry about getting the right trunk before developing the branches. The branching can be developed and regrown in a couple of seasons but if the trunk is not right, that can take much much longer to correct.
Removing any foliage will reduce or take away expended energy for the tree. For growth keep as much as possible, and use pinching for refinement.
Fab video xx
Thank you kindly Louise 🙏
Szia!
Megtennéd, hogy az automata választható feliratozásba, a magyar nyelvet is hozzáadod?
Köszönöm:)
Kris
Szia Chris! Meg fogom vizsgálni ezt, de általában hagyom, hogy a Google/TH-cam gondoskodjon a fordításról és a feliratokról. Meglátom, miben segíthetek. 🙏
@@TheBonsaiGarden
Thanks🤝
@@TheBonsaiGarden If you have any problems with the procedure, you could speak with Adam Mccallion, he already enabled them in his videos.
Felfedeztem, hogyan kell ezt megtenni, ezért minden jövőbeli videóhoz hozzá fogok tenni, és végigjárom a videók hátsó katalógusát is. 🙏
Nice video pal and presentation of it. Makes my crappy tree videos look like I filmed them on a potato lol 😂
Lol 😂
Thanks so much, Jason, I have learned so much from just a few of your videos! I do have a question: have a Hinoki Cypress in a pot, was pruned too early I think, and I need to thicken the trunk. Was planning to put back in ground to do so. When I allow a "sacrificial branch" to grow unchecked, does that mean I need to prune all the other branches? It seems so, but want to confirm. Thank you again!
Hi Carol, so glad these videos have been of help and thank you for your thank you gift which is greatly appreciated 🙏
You can plant the tree unpruned and all the extra foliage will thicken up the trunk quicker as more leaves means more energy, means more growth.
Alternatively you might want to shape the tree and prevent it using unnecessary resources on branches which might not form part of the final design. It’s a judgement call and constant balancing act.
Leaving the branches will provide more energy for the tree and help thicken it quicker, but may result in thicker branches too, with more obvious cuts and pruning.
Removing now will reduce energy generated and possibly slow development a little, but also avoid wasting energy developing unwanted branches, and give less severe pruning scars.
Thanks for your quick reply! I'm really uncertain which path to take, so trying to be more conservative, I would leave it for a year and maybe start the sacrificial branch, pruning others after that...does that make sense?
@carolkotsiopoulos5781 sometimes there is no easy or obvious single answer, but a weighing up of the pros and cons and making a judgement call. It is unlikely that either decision would be detrimental, just different routes to a similar destination. 😊
@@TheBonsaiGarden thanks Jason, that makes sense!
👍👌👌
Thanks Bruce 🙏
Hello. One trait I am greatly lacking in is PATIENCE. How does one learn that!! I'm even impatient waiting for a shot of the fish, so thanks for that.
That’s a difficult one. Having lots of trees means you can focus and be distracted elsewhere while waiting 😁
@@TheBonsaiGarden My castoff pile is getting larger. On the other hand, I did attend my first bonsai club meeting tonight, after being a member for over a year now. I was hoping to see Candice, she's been silent for awhile now.