Kentucky Four Board is a classic fence that's simple construction, easy to build, and looks amazing along the edge of your property. This is how we build it!
One way of doing your nailing and keeping consistent spacing is to make a jig or two that sets on the top of post and has the desired spacing with wood cut for the width of the spacing and butt your boards up to . Eliminates the marking on the post which sometimes gets a bit off and takes away the guess work. Just one way we do it but I like your method too. Very clean and solid. Thanks for the input. Keep on fencing !! Walla Walla fence co. Washington
I would like to share this about plank fencing. In Kentucky you will see outer border fence and then horse paddock behind that with it's own plank fence. If you notice the plank/board is on the inside of the horse paddock because that is the strength. Always have your board on the side of livestock. Other than that it is purely cosmetic. I have installed many "work" pen's for cattle and farm fence for property line. I just thought I would let people know just in case they were installing for livestock.
Not hating just adding a comment about 3 rail fencing with the boards facing the paddock. My horse slipped his head in between and popped a board off and escaped. I would think its harder to do with 4 rails but that is one thing that has happened to me with the boards facing the side of the paddock
Yes my philosophy has always been fencing in the wood belongs on the inside. Fencing out boards on the outside. So boards are always being pushed on into the post this way and adds as much strength as possible.
I live in KY and have a modest several hundred feet of this. Good video. Depending on paint color, you may want to use a stainless fastener instead of galvanized. If the fence will be black, it doesn't matter though. I also like the post tops to be cut at an angle, away from the show side. Helps it shed water, and less bird mess too.
Could you elaborate what you mean with the paint? I was doing this style fence with white paint to surround 2 acres and do not want to mess anything up.
Well done Sir!! Working on my fencing and taking all the advice you’re sharing!!! Beautiful Work! Are those two guys twins??? Greetings from North Carolina !
We definitely don't use concrete for driven posts. There are times when we use concrete, and there are times when we drive, but never both at the same time. These were 8' posts. 👍🏻
Great video guys! I've never considering staggering the joints but will do so on my property in North Carolina. I'm old fashioned and do not have all the fancy tools like your pros, but the end result is usually the same. Could you go into more detail or do you have any instructional videos about your curve cuts and relief cuts? What is the thickness of the post that you are using? (Sorry if you've already answered that question, I may have missed it 😃) Thanks again for this great informational video.
These are 5.5”x8’ in the video 6”x8’ is also common. I do not recommend anything smaller than 5” diameter. Curf cut: cutting 2/3-3/4 vertically from bottom to top to roll boards down, or from top to bottom to roll boards up. Rolling boards down, the top 1/4 of the board remains intact rolling boards up the bottom 1/4 of the board remains intact.
@@SWiFence great video, like your style. Here in Harrisburg, NC near Nascar, The Charlotte Motor Speedway. In your opinion, What is the maximum post to post span length of 5/4 board you would recommend to prohibit warping. (Of course wood is wood, but to eliminate as much as possible?) (6', 8', 10' 12'?) Thanks.
Great video. Couple questions. So to remain a constant post height, you cut every post 4’1” from the ground, regardless of terrain? And how long would a fence like this be expected to last on average, as a boundary fence? I have a corner 40, so a county road on two sides for a total of half a mile of fence if I were to do it all. This would be a more attractive option at my drive and along where the house is, and easements and turn ins. Thanks
Post height depends on terrain. My optimal height was 4’1” but fluctuated depending on the ground. A smooth flow with posts tops is desired and that’s why we used a string line to determine where to cut. Life of the fence will depend on the environment it’s in, drier soils will aid in longevity. I expect this fence to last at least 20-30 years with some maintenance and possibly some board and post replacement.
See instead of marking every post we just used a spacer board cut to the opening gap. And never really saw but if you run the saw down the joint both boards come cut out and the same angle aka a perfect cut
5 or 6” round by 8’ treated posts. We really like 5/4” x 6” x 16’ treated poplar boards, we have better luck with them staying straight. Pine boards is another good option.
this is a fence we would like to install except we would like to add a high tensile woven wire mesh to it to keep our dogs fenced in. no livestock, just dogs. Like the boards on the outside for appearance purposes. Where in the process and what side would you add the wire? Great video!
Before installing the boards, install braces at your end and corner pull posts. Then stretch and install your HT woven wire on the same side you will install the boards. After wire is installed, install your board’s sandwiching the woven wire between the boards and post.
Its a nice looking fence but its usually painted with black creosote fence paint on all the thoroughbred farms in KY. Never heard it called Kentucky 4 board before, but I see it all the time.
Curf cut is because you use a chainsaw that hacks up your cut other than calling out a quarter inch bottom Gap or top Gap and re-cutting it with a skill saw. Or marking the rail on hillside then cutting for a perfect fit but hey do it your way whatever works and your customer buys that's why they love you. btw nice topline.
I think they were referring to the angle cut when they are trying to follow terrain. 2 90 degree cuts don't butt well if the boards aren't level, which by the sounds of it you probably already know. That was my interpretation from the video and my personal experience. My Two cents
Eddie B, I agree with your assessment, I was learned, simple kind of guy, that a curf is simply the material removed based upon the thickness of the blade performing the cut.
My first trip to Lexington KY… miles and miles of horse fence… very similar to those. One big difference was that they were all black. Oh, and you could smell the creosote coming off them from miles away! We built 5 rail white oak fences for our hog and cattle pens. My dad had a rule…. Any animal that broke a fence got sold or eaten! We always had pork in the freezer…. Beef? Not so much!
Most folks like the posts on the inside for looks. They're pretty sturdy either way as long as you use long enough ring shank nails or screws. The face board acts like a big washer to keep the rail boards from splitting free of the fasteners. But if you wanted you could always put the posts on the outside for extra strength.
You can start with either--I usually start on the top. The rail positions should change on rolling ground VS level ground. You can flex the boards up or down just a bit. If it's really hilly you might have to cut boards for any sections you can't get enough flex out of.
Just a question because I know nothing here, but why wouldn't a person use a Flat faced post? Just to save money? It seems you would get a better seat and nailing surface. Seriously asking because I'm about to do this as well and want to be informed on my decisions.
Sorry--we don't do prices in the TH-cam comments. If you're in or near Wyoming (or near St. Augustine, FL), you'd have to call for a quote. 866-754-0120 I'm afraid we don't have linear foot prices--every job and soil condition is way too different. It's probably safe to say it's a good bit more than you're estimating in your head.
I expect this fence to last at least 20-30 years with some maintenance and possibly some board and post replacement. (It's also been treated since this video.)
Oh man, you'll just have to call around and compare. Often the closer you get to the source the cheaper it might be, so if you might check to see if you have any mills in your area that sell direct.
Face boards/batons will cause the fence to rot out prematurely if you do not paint behind them. Poplar boards are even worse for rotting out behind the baton. Using round post is a waste also, you want faced posts to make the fence stronger, do they build houses out of round 2x4s? Oak is alot better, but poplar will maybe last 10 years before it gets bad. Oak will go about 20. By the way, the paint is NOT creosote, you can not paint fence with it, they won't sell it. The paint is made specifically for fence and barns. It's either a latex or acrylic based.
Love your work and your video but jfyi popular is not a hardwood, it is a softwood. I ran a sawmill for years and by far this was my favorite lumber to cut and work with on jobs. It doesn’t splinter or split as easily as other wood and has a beautiful color combination.
There's something about fence installation that has long bothered me. Why are the boards being put on the outside? Yes, it looks better, but I think livestock looks better on the inside of the fence. Why not use the structure of the posts and the boards to keep animals in instead of relying on the holding strength of the fasteners? Putting boards or fence fabric on the outside doesn't seem like the most effective plan.
A lot of people where I’m from including myself build these this way on the outside for the looks, then run either page wire for cattle or horse/goat wire on the inside attached to the post. It’s more money but you get both objectives out of the fence.
And he is correct by splitting the seams, a 8’ post driven 3’ in the ground after complete, you can attach the wire on the inside and stretch it all you want and this fence will not move
One way of doing your nailing and keeping consistent spacing is to make a jig or two that sets on the top of post and has the desired spacing with wood cut for the width of the spacing and butt your boards up to . Eliminates the marking on the post which sometimes gets a bit off and takes away the guess work. Just one way we do it but I like your method too. Very clean and solid. Thanks for the input. Keep on fencing !! Walla Walla fence co. Washington
Do you have a pic or video you could share of this? I like the sound of it.
I would like to share this about plank fencing. In Kentucky you will see outer border fence and then horse paddock behind that with it's own plank fence. If you notice the plank/board is on the inside of the horse paddock because that is the strength. Always have your board on the side of livestock. Other than that it is purely cosmetic. I have installed many "work" pen's for cattle and farm fence for property line. I just thought I would let people know just in case they were installing for livestock.
Golden advice. 👍🏻 Always keep the boards on the livestock side.
Not hating just adding a comment about 3 rail fencing with the boards facing the paddock. My horse slipped his head in between and popped a board off and escaped. I would think its harder to do with 4 rails but that is one thing that has happened to me with the boards facing the side of the paddock
Yes my philosophy has always been fencing in the wood belongs on the inside. Fencing out boards on the outside. So boards are always being pushed on into the post this way and adds as much strength as possible.
Nice fence
Cool clip, thanks Swi and new front man!
Meet Alan, the other owner 😁. We keep him hid in Cheyenne and most of the action is up in Cody.
Nice looking product. Definitely heavy duty. 👍
Top fan right here ☝🏻. Thanks Roger!
Well done. Straight to the point. Clear instructions. Comical at the same time. Other TH-camrs could learn from you.
This is so encouraging to hear--thank you!
Fence looks great!
Thanks!
Very helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thanks for the great video.
Glad you liked it!
Very nice! 👏👏👏
Thank you very much!
Really nice fence guys
Thanks!
I live in KY and have a modest several hundred feet of this. Good video. Depending on paint color, you may want to use a stainless fastener instead of galvanized. If the fence will be black, it doesn't matter though. I also like the post tops to be cut at an angle, away from the show side. Helps it shed water, and less bird mess too.
Could you elaborate what you mean with the paint? I was doing this style fence with white paint to surround 2 acres and do not want to mess anything up.
@@Jakg8484 Coated nails or screws will eventually rust and make dark streaks.
I love your way of
Thanks! I love your kind of
Hell that gun ain’t even sinking them nails 😂😂😂
We realized in the middle there that the compressor was shut off. 😑
Well done Sir!! Working on my fencing and taking all the advice you’re sharing!!!
Beautiful Work! Are those two guys twins???
Greetings from North Carolina !
They are not twins. 🙂
Great video, and fence looks amazing!! Do you have to use cement for post when driving them? Also, do you know how long the round post have to be?
We definitely don't use concrete for driven posts. There are times when we use concrete, and there are times when we drive, but never both at the same time.
These were 8' posts. 👍🏻
Great video guys! I've never considering staggering the joints but will do so on my property in North Carolina. I'm old fashioned and do not have all the fancy tools like your pros, but the end result is usually the same. Could you go into more detail or do you have any instructional videos about your curve cuts and relief cuts? What is the thickness of the post that you are using? (Sorry if you've already answered that question, I may have missed it 😃) Thanks again for this great informational video.
These are 5.5”x8’ in the video 6”x8’ is also common. I do not recommend anything smaller than 5” diameter.
Curf cut: cutting 2/3-3/4 vertically from bottom to top to roll boards down, or from top to bottom to roll boards up. Rolling boards down, the top 1/4 of the board remains intact rolling boards up the bottom 1/4 of the board remains intact.
@@SWiFence great video, like your style. Here in Harrisburg, NC near Nascar, The Charlotte Motor Speedway. In your opinion, What is the maximum post to post span length of 5/4 board you would recommend to prohibit warping. (Of course wood is wood, but to eliminate as much as possible?) (6', 8', 10' 12'?) Thanks.
Nice audio edit at 0:52!
Boards should resist rot better than rails because of shedding water better and drying faster. Nice look.
And it looks so nice!
Great video. Couple questions. So to remain a constant post height, you cut every post 4’1” from the ground, regardless of terrain? And how long would a fence like this be expected to last on average, as a boundary fence? I have a corner 40, so a county road on two sides for a total of half a mile of fence if I were to do it all. This would be a more attractive option at my drive and along where the house is, and easements and turn ins. Thanks
Post height depends on terrain. My optimal height was 4’1” but fluctuated depending on the ground. A smooth flow with posts tops is desired and that’s why we used a string line to determine where to cut. Life of the fence will depend on the environment it’s in, drier soils will aid in longevity. I expect this fence to last at least 20-30 years with some maintenance and possibly some board and post replacement.
Can you use postmaster post for this? Would be for small residential corner lot in town
Nice guys! We also got a video online of installing a chainlink fence! Let us know what you think
I'll check it out!
See instead of marking every post we just used a spacer board cut to the opening gap. And never really saw but if you run the saw down the joint both boards come cut out and the same angle aka a perfect cut
Thanks for the specifics on the boards! What type of wood / size do you recommend for the posts and face boards?
5 or 6” round by 8’ treated posts. We really like 5/4” x 6” x 16’ treated poplar boards, we have better luck with them staying straight. Pine boards is another good option.
Some places also sell treated creosote post and board. Just wear long sleeve shirts and gloves because it will burn your skin.
@@SWiFence do you recommend 6-7” round posts for gates and corners? Or do you install everything with the 5-6” rounds?
this is a fence we would like to install except we would like to add a high tensile woven wire mesh to it to keep our dogs fenced in. no livestock, just dogs. Like the boards on the outside for appearance purposes. Where in the process and what side would you add the wire? Great video!
Before installing the boards, install braces at your end and corner pull posts. Then stretch and install your HT woven wire on the same side you will install the boards. After wire is installed, install your board’s sandwiching the woven wire between the boards and post.
Looks great! What diameter post did you use? Is the spacing right at 8 ft?
I’m assuming they’re doing 7 foot spacing and 16 foot board so they can cut to length. And those look like pressure treated 6” posts.
Its a nice looking fence but its usually painted with black creosote fence paint on all the thoroughbred farms in KY. Never heard it called Kentucky 4 board before, but I see it all the time.
All the wood is treated and we may come back and stain it with some Wood Defender this summer. Stay tuned.
@@SWiFence I was going to ask about this - it does not look like treated wood to me, but maybe it's deck railing? Or is it treated 2x6x16?
I might have missed it but how far were these posts driven in?
3 feet
Curf cut is because you use a chainsaw that hacks up your cut other than calling out a quarter inch bottom Gap or top Gap and re-cutting it with a skill saw. Or marking the rail on hillside then cutting for a perfect fit but hey do it your way whatever works and your customer buys that's why they love you. btw nice topline.
I think they were referring to the angle cut when they are trying to follow terrain. 2 90 degree cuts don't butt well if the boards aren't level, which by the sounds of it you probably already know. That was my interpretation from the video and my personal experience. My Two cents
Eddie B, I agree with your assessment, I was learned, simple kind of guy, that a curf is simply the material removed based upon the thickness of the blade performing the cut.
My first trip to Lexington KY… miles and miles of horse fence… very similar to those. One big difference was that they were all black.
Oh, and you could smell the creosote coming off them from miles away!
We built 5 rail white oak fences for our hog and cattle pens. My dad had a rule…. Any animal that broke a fence got sold or eaten! We always had pork in the freezer…. Beef? Not so much!
We will probably stain this one with Wood Defender.
@@SWiFence Does Wood Defender keep horses from chewing the fence rails? Thanks!!
No it doesn’t, but a single Hotwire at the top will.
Looks great we are wanting to build in Oklahoma but are you supposed to have the post on the outside if we have horses inside the fences?
Most folks like the posts on the inside for looks. They're pretty sturdy either way as long as you use long enough ring shank nails or screws. The face board acts like a big washer to keep the rail boards from splitting free of the fasteners. But if you wanted you could always put the posts on the outside for extra strength.
Do you guys build fence in Oklahoma? You do nice work@@SWiFence
Inside. Common rule of thumb. I was born and raised in horse country (Kentucky). Plenty of cattle also. Cattle and horses like to rub against fence.
Do you have a video for rolling terrain?
So, 4’1” give or take an inch or so based on grade. And then the first board 1” below the top and 7” spacing in between the rails right?
Can you tell us what nailer and nails you used? I need to do some maintenance on our 4 board kentucky fencing
It's a Fasco F91A RHN20. Nails are Fasco 4 1/2" x .148"
Do you start the rails with the top rail first? How fo you determine the rail positions on hilly terrain?
You can start with either--I usually start on the top. The rail positions should change on rolling ground VS level ground. You can flex the boards up or down just a bit. If it's really hilly you might have to cut boards for any sections you can't get enough flex out of.
How much per foot is this fence
Should cut post tops on rake.
And use screws never nails.
Nice fence. What is the spacing for the posts?
8'
@@SWiFence That’s what I kinda figured. But at 8’ on center how come a 16’ board need to be trimmed down what looks to be 6-12”?
It's been a while but I think those boards may have actually been 18'.
@@SWiFence gotcha! Makes sense thank you.
Just a question because I know nothing here, but why wouldn't a person use a Flat faced post? Just to save money? It seems you would get a better seat and nailing surface. Seriously asking because I'm about to do this as well and want to be informed on my decisions.
Are there cordless nailers that work or no?
@1zzy L what model do you have?
What size fence post are you using ?
5 1/2" round by 8'
Could you have us d the galvanized postmaster posts you use on privacy fences instead of round posts?
Yup! You can. We wanted the look of round posts, but you can use PostMasters as well. 👍🏻
@@SWiFence You think you’ll do a vid on it?
How to get the top rail level? Do you run a level string?
We eye sight because we do this all day and it's faster for us. You certainly could run a string, though.
How much u guys spent in material? $
Why poplar? Are the rails treated?
Yes, poplar is better than pine and doesn’t cost as much as oak.
What's something like that run a foot with labor and installation? And materials list?
Sorry--we don't do prices in the TH-cam comments.
If you're in or near Wyoming (or near St. Augustine, FL), you'd have to call for a quote. 866-754-0120
I'm afraid we don't have linear foot prices--every job and soil condition is way too different. It's probably safe to say it's a good bit more than you're estimating in your head.
With todays lumber that like a million dollars in wood...
Everything is expensive these days. Wood, steel, vinyl....
How long will this fence last?
I expect this fence to last at least 20-30 years with some maintenance and possibly some board and post replacement. (It's also been treated since this video.)
How much would this cost on an acre?
Where is a good place to buy lumber to get the best prices?
Oh man, you'll just have to call around and compare. Often the closer you get to the source the cheaper it might be, so if you might check to see if you have any mills in your area that sell direct.
How tall is thins fence?
48"
I prefer screws nails work their way back out too often
What about installing on a hill
Very doable.
Cost?
How much per foot just spit ballin
Face boards/batons will cause the fence to rot out prematurely if you do not paint behind them. Poplar boards are even worse for rotting out behind the baton. Using round post is a waste also, you want faced posts to make the fence stronger, do they build houses out of round 2x4s? Oak is alot better, but poplar will maybe last 10 years before it gets bad. Oak will go about 20. By the way, the paint is NOT creosote, you can not paint fence with it, they won't sell it. The paint is made specifically for fence and barns. It's either a latex or acrylic based.
What I use is creosote, I make it myself.
What's up with your nail gun that the nails don't go all the way in?
They were using a junk compressor that couldn't keep up. This jumbo nailer really needs a constant 120 psi to work well.
Love your work and your video but jfyi popular is not a hardwood, it is a softwood. I ran a sawmill for years and by far this was my favorite lumber to cut and work with on jobs. It doesn’t splinter or split as easily as other wood and has a beautiful color combination.
*Technically* speaking poplar is an angiosperm hardwood, but you are absolutely correct--it's not very hard! 👍🏻
Love the video. Hate the music choice.
Thanks for the love, sorry for the hate. You'd be surprised how difficult it is to make everybody happy.
There's something about fence installation that has long bothered me. Why are the boards being put on the outside? Yes, it looks better, but I think livestock looks better on the inside of the fence. Why not use the structure of the posts and the boards to keep animals in instead of relying on the holding strength of the fasteners? Putting boards or fence fabric on the outside doesn't seem like the most effective plan.
You're right on. 👍🏻 If you're using a fence to contain livestock you want the boards on the inside. You'll see the same principles in corrals.
A lot of people where I’m from including myself build these this way on the outside for the looks, then run either page wire for cattle or horse/goat wire on the inside attached to the post. It’s more money but you get both objectives out of the fence.
And he is correct by splitting the seams, a 8’ post driven 3’ in the ground after complete, you can attach the wire on the inside and stretch it all you want and this fence will not move
That fence board at 5:28 is useless and that alone shows you guys do shotty work. That'll have to be replaced in 3-6 months.
What a load of total crap
This comment? Yeah...